Right on! All of the color schemes look great on the Mc.205 and they're all quite challenging to achieve. I wonder if the Mc.205 ever came in the Italian Dark Olive Green scheme like the Reggiane fighters did? Cheers!
Hello Jon, excellent video of a great and beautiful model such as the mc 205 Veltro, I have an Italeri mc 200 1:48 in my stash waiting, watching the videos of both the Re 2005 and the Mc 202 I think they are models to collect Its visual richness and design, only the Italians could give such particular forms to aerodynamics, just like the Japanese, they are collections that make a unique theme. The camouflage, whether splinter or desert camouflage, makes them very striking. The results require dedication, which is why a great deal of patience is necessary. I saw a video of the assembly of this specific model. The smoke rings on the decals look very good. I was impressed with the result, it's not just reaching out and hitting it apparently. from my vacation spot in the countryside, a big greeting and thanks for the videos that increase motivation when returning to the routine, greetings and until the next video... P.S... The use or not of weathering, both in the mc 202 and in Re 2005, is not as visible as in other modelers who make almost finished versions of their models. I understand that many go for historical recreation, however, it is still satisfying to leave a model with minimal or almost no wear...a video from your perspective would be very interesting and educational.
Right on, Francisco! The Italian aircraft definitely have a unique look and would make a great display. I usually try to weather a plane based on historical photos of that particular aircraft. Sometimes, they are heavily weathered. Sometimes not. It keeps me honest with my weathering. I don't want to develop an artistic style that I apply to all my finishes. Depending on the theater of operations and the time the photo was taken, even the same aircraft can look different in different photos. A model, like a photo, is just a snapshot of a moment. The subject can be factory fresh or a derelict. It just depends on the picture that the modeler wants to present. Cheers!
Great video. I built the 2nd Hasegawa issue of the Macchi C.205, the ANR version , which is the same kit re-boxed. The Eduard Brassin Wheel well set ( designed for C.202) makes a big difference . The one thing missing on the kit is the ejector ports on the lower wings , plus tear drop fairings if you have the 20mm Cannon Barrels version .
Hi all. For MC. 205 (Series III and IV, those with the wing 20 mm cannons) the closed version (a protection shield against sand) of the main undercarriage wheels well is more appropriate. For that, take a look to Vector resin part #VDS48119. The wheels well open version BRASSIN set #648278 by Eduard is perfect for MC. 202 and for MC. 205 Series I. 😊
Good Morning from OHIO ☀️ It’s amazing how they produce/ manufacture plastic models… The kits you have reviewed All were very crisp and detailed, not overwhelming… When they come together they look great… Still plugging away with my builds, I don’t like starting another model till I’m done with what I’m working on… I also like having all my Ducks in a row before I start… Research, aftermarket products ( if I want ) and the colors I choose to use… I wonder how well those smoke ring decals work, looking forward to seeing how this build comes out for you… I’m in the market for a new AIRBRUSH, not sure what kind I want ????? I’M LOOKING !!!!!!!!!!!!! Always enjoy your reviews and seeing what you’re working on… Have a great WEEK ☀️ CHRIS 🇺🇸
Thanks, Chris! I wish I could be disciplined enough to finish one before starting another. I never know which one will get finished next. It may even be one I haven't bought yet 😕. But, I do finish them eventually. I like my Badger Anthem airbrush, but there are lots of choices these days. Let me know what you decide on. Cheers!
Another great video! I am looking forward to seeing how you deal with those camo decals, it can take monk like discipline with some of Hasegawa designs, but then maybe that’s the point. Thanks!
Hi Jon. They are lovely kits. Hard to get here but the MC202 and MC205 that I eventually obtained were Hasegawa's first issues. A nice surprise was that the first issues came with Cartograf decals! (No smoke rings but I have purchased Eduard's sheet of rings for one kit). I think Italeri's decals are really nice and they give you a great choice in markings. (I await to see which scheme you pick.) Re: all Dark Olive Green schemes (Verde Oliva Scuro), I know the MC200 did, so they probably did. Or one in all Light Hazelnut (Nocciola Chiaro) would be interesting. Sometimes it was what ever you could get due to shortages. (Light Hazelnut! - I never knew before, how cool!) I cheat here, Lifecolor paints of Italy have all the colours (and correct names) for the Italian Armed Forces, and a translate app on the phone helps with my pronunciation! Grigio Azzurro Chiaro - Light Blue Grey. It's nice that Italeri uses the correct names (as you would expect from an proudly Italian company). Thanks for the review. Cheers Matt 🦘🦘🦘
Thanks, Matt! I'll have to look up the Light Hazelnut color. It sounds cool. I'll try to look up the Lifecolor paints, too. It sounds like a great reference. Cheers!
The Italian Regia aeronautica saw combat along with German luftwaffe and other axis air forces in Russia. Germans and Italian planes fought together in north Africa and Mediterranean. They bombed the island of Malta. The Italians had some good planes but they lost the war in 1943, so their planes aren't as famous as the allies, germans and Japanese
Hey Jon, great looking build, I'm sure I'll eventually build an Italian aircraft but I think they probably have the most difficult camouflage schemes to reproduce in the model world :-) I suspect this long nose fighter tail dragger would have been difficult to take off, but the power might have made up on it. My model learning curve continues to be a bit frustrating. First is trying to detail a cockpit in 1/72, next painting the pilots. Third settling in on paints. My old stash of paints consisted of Humbrol and Model Master. Ironically after many years about 50% of the Humbrol are still alive an the Model Master about 75% OK. Enamels were more popular back in the day. With my walk in shop they carry Vallejo and Tamiya. Vallejo has a billion colors so they are almost model specific and you have to have a color chart, although they are water based but you need multiple coats. Tamiya is OK, they have great bright colors but tend to be too thick for brush, I need to look at working with a wet pallet I guess. One bit of a surprise - I have had some success with your no prime. However, out of curiosity I did buy a can of Tamyia grey primer. Got a 1/48 P51 side from my parts box. Its an old Otaki with sharp detail. I used the spray can and was amazed at the results. This is the first spray paint that has the perfect viscosity, and went down so smooth it was virtually transparent. . So besides trying to master detail , I'm still trying to lock in some paint. Starting at 1/72 was " cheap" but maybe too small for getting my skill set back. The next completely new area is pin wash and washes in general. I'm slowly discovering you might need to clear coat with gloss or flat coat in between coats. The game has definitely changed since my sabbatical. Sorry for the long post Seems like I have reached a plateau on my reentry, but slowly getting there. The internet has been helpful on prepainting supplies. I just need to get my materials worked out as I have a rather large stash awaiting. Cheers from the Pacific Northwest, Bob..
Right on, Bob! Sounds like you found a good product in the Tamiya primer. Keep me posted on the paints. Washes work better on gloss or semi gloss finishes. Keep a damp Q-tip handy for quick corrections. Pastels are my go-to method for weathering, and they like flat coats. There's always more to learn. Finish what you can where you're at skill wise. You can always go back and try new techniques to add to your skill set. Model on!
Hi Bob. This may help you. Tamiya do a paint retarder (their square bottle with a light blue top). I have some empty Vallejo type bottles (cheap off Amazon) and I put 95% Tamiya paint with 5% retarder. Then if I'm painting details I can pour a drop out with little waste and it goes on better. It also helps if brush painting larger areas as it dries slower so settles better and lets you overlap brush strokes. (never exceed 10% Retarder or it never dries!). I thin Tamiya paints with Tamiya's X-20 which is less stinky than lacquer types (Like Mr Levelling Thinner). Spray cans give good results and can be economical if you can get them at a good price. And if you decide to get an airbrush at some point the Tamiya paints spray beautifully (50/50 thinner works for me) so no need to get other paints. And mistakes will be made! (yesterday I masked and sprayed a panel and upon removing the mask found I had sprayed the wrong, much lighter green colour! Oops! 😂)
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks Jon, this helps regroup. I've decided to just do a simple finish on the 1/72 scale pilots not super detail at this time. I'll definitely need to get to the model itself to climb up the curve . I do like the pastel idea too. Thanks, Bob.
Hasegawa kit with a super decal sheet, what's not to love, I'm lucky enough to have it in the stash and really like the RLM grey schemes.
Right on! All of the color schemes look great on the Mc.205 and they're all quite challenging to achieve. I wonder if the Mc.205 ever came in the Italian Dark Olive Green scheme like the Reggiane fighters did? Cheers!
Hello Jon, excellent video of a great and beautiful model such as the mc 205 Veltro, I have an Italeri mc 200 1:48 in my stash waiting, watching the videos of both the Re 2005 and the Mc 202 I think they are models to collect Its visual richness and design, only the Italians could give such particular forms to aerodynamics, just like the Japanese, they are collections that make a unique theme.
The camouflage, whether splinter or desert camouflage, makes them very striking. The results require dedication, which is why a great deal of patience is necessary. I saw a video of the assembly of this specific model. The smoke rings on the decals look very good. I was impressed with the result, it's not just reaching out and hitting it apparently.
from my vacation spot in the countryside, a big greeting and thanks for the videos that increase motivation when returning to the routine, greetings and until the next video...
P.S...
The use or not of weathering, both in the mc 202 and in Re 2005, is not as visible as in other modelers who make almost finished versions of their models. I understand that many go for historical recreation, however, it is still satisfying to leave a model with minimal or almost no wear...a video from your perspective would be very interesting and educational.
Right on, Francisco! The Italian aircraft definitely have a unique look and would make a great display. I usually try to weather a plane based on historical photos of that particular aircraft. Sometimes, they are heavily weathered. Sometimes not. It keeps me honest with my weathering. I don't want to develop an artistic style that I apply to all my finishes. Depending on the theater of operations and the time the photo was taken, even the same aircraft can look different in different photos. A model, like a photo, is just a snapshot of a moment. The subject can be factory fresh or a derelict. It just depends on the picture that the modeler wants to present. Cheers!
Great video. I built the 2nd Hasegawa issue of the Macchi C.205, the ANR version , which is the same kit re-boxed. The Eduard Brassin Wheel well set ( designed for C.202) makes a big difference . The one thing missing on the kit is the ejector ports on the lower wings , plus tear drop fairings if you have the 20mm Cannon Barrels version .
Thank you! Great tips on the shell ejector ports and cannon blisters. I will probably flat spot the kit wheels on mine for an improved stance. Cheers!
Hi all. For MC. 205 (Series III and IV, those with the wing 20 mm cannons) the closed version (a protection shield against sand) of the main undercarriage wheels well is more appropriate. For that, take a look to Vector resin part #VDS48119. The wheels well open version BRASSIN set #648278 by Eduard is perfect for MC. 202 and for MC. 205 Series I. 😊
Good Morning from OHIO ☀️
It’s amazing how they produce/ manufacture plastic models…
The kits you have reviewed
All were very crisp and detailed, not overwhelming…
When they come together they look great…
Still plugging away with my builds, I don’t like starting another model till I’m done with what I’m working on…
I also like having all my Ducks in a row before I start…
Research, aftermarket products ( if I want ) and the colors I choose to use…
I wonder how well those smoke ring decals work, looking forward to seeing how this build comes out for you…
I’m in the market for a new
AIRBRUSH, not sure what kind I want ?????
I’M LOOKING !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Always enjoy your reviews and seeing what you’re working on…
Have a great WEEK ☀️
CHRIS 🇺🇸
Thanks, Chris! I wish I could be disciplined enough to finish one before starting another. I never know which one will get finished next. It may even be one I haven't bought yet 😕. But, I do finish them eventually. I like my Badger Anthem airbrush, but there are lots of choices these days. Let me know what you decide on. Cheers!
Another great video! I am looking forward to seeing how you deal with those camo decals, it can take monk like discipline with some of Hasegawa designs, but then maybe that’s the point. Thanks!
Thank you! I know what you mean (Hawker Typhoon). However, this Hasegawa kit is a gem with no crazy inserts. Cheers!
Thanks again Jon. Came here to say that Italeri s version couldn’t possibly be better than Hasegawa s. Whoops. lol.
Right on! I love it when a great kit is reboxed and made even better. Cheers!
Hi Jon. They are lovely kits. Hard to get here but the MC202 and MC205 that I eventually obtained were Hasegawa's first issues.
A nice surprise was that the first issues came with Cartograf decals! (No smoke rings but I have purchased Eduard's sheet of rings for one kit).
I think Italeri's decals are really nice and they give you a great choice in markings. (I await to see which scheme you pick.)
Re: all Dark Olive Green schemes (Verde Oliva Scuro), I know the MC200 did, so they probably did.
Or one in all Light Hazelnut (Nocciola Chiaro) would be interesting. Sometimes it was what ever you could get due to shortages. (Light Hazelnut! - I never knew before, how cool!)
I cheat here, Lifecolor paints of Italy have all the colours (and correct names) for the Italian Armed Forces, and a translate app on the phone helps with my pronunciation!
Grigio Azzurro Chiaro - Light Blue Grey. It's nice that Italeri uses the correct names (as you would expect from an proudly Italian company).
Thanks for the review. Cheers Matt 🦘🦘🦘
Thanks, Matt! I'll have to look up the Light Hazelnut color. It sounds cool. I'll try to look up the Lifecolor paints, too. It sounds like a great reference. Cheers!
Looks like you love italian fighters as I :-) , 202 and 205 on my project list are waiting to be build
Right on! The only thing that keeps me from having more completed is the difficulty of the paint schemes. But they look so good when finished! Cheers
One of best ww2 Italian fighters
Yep.
The Italian Regia aeronautica saw combat along with German luftwaffe and other axis air forces in Russia. Germans and Italian planes fought together in north Africa and Mediterranean. They bombed the island of Malta. The Italians had some good planes but they lost the war in 1943, so their planes aren't as famous as the allies, germans and Japanese
Hi Jon ! Please, the correct pronunciation is : "Makki". 😊
Thanks, Giovanni! I'll try to do better next time 😉. Cheers!
Hey Jon, great looking build, I'm sure I'll eventually build an Italian aircraft but I think they probably have the most difficult camouflage schemes to reproduce in the model world :-) I suspect this long nose fighter tail dragger would have been difficult to take off, but the power might have made up on it. My model learning curve continues to be a bit frustrating. First is trying to detail a cockpit in 1/72, next painting the pilots. Third settling in on paints. My old stash of paints consisted of Humbrol and Model Master. Ironically after many years about 50% of the Humbrol are still alive an the Model Master about 75% OK. Enamels were more popular back in the day. With my walk in shop they carry Vallejo and Tamiya. Vallejo has a billion colors so they are almost model specific and you have to have a color chart, although they are water based but you need multiple coats. Tamiya is OK, they have great bright colors but tend to be too thick for brush, I need to look at working with a wet pallet I guess. One bit of a surprise - I have had some success with your no prime. However, out of curiosity I did buy a can of Tamyia grey primer. Got a 1/48 P51 side from my parts box. Its an old Otaki with sharp detail. I used the spray can and was amazed at the results. This is the first spray paint that has the perfect viscosity, and went down so smooth it was virtually transparent. . So besides trying to master detail , I'm still trying to lock in some paint. Starting at 1/72 was " cheap" but maybe too small for getting my skill set back. The next completely new area is pin wash and washes in general. I'm slowly discovering you might need to clear coat with gloss or flat coat in between coats. The game has definitely changed since my sabbatical. Sorry for the long post Seems like I have reached a plateau on my reentry, but slowly getting there. The internet has been helpful on prepainting supplies. I just need to get my materials worked out as I have a rather large stash awaiting. Cheers from the Pacific Northwest, Bob..
Right on, Bob! Sounds like you found a good product in the Tamiya primer. Keep me posted on the paints. Washes work better on gloss or semi gloss finishes. Keep a damp Q-tip handy for quick corrections. Pastels are my go-to method for weathering, and they like flat coats. There's always more to learn. Finish what you can where you're at skill wise. You can always go back and try new techniques to add to your skill set. Model on!
Hi Bob. This may help you. Tamiya do a paint retarder (their square bottle with a light blue top). I have some empty Vallejo type bottles (cheap off Amazon) and I put 95% Tamiya paint with 5% retarder. Then if I'm painting details I can pour a drop out with little waste and it goes on better. It also helps if brush painting larger areas as it dries slower so settles better and lets you overlap brush strokes. (never exceed 10% Retarder or it never dries!). I thin Tamiya paints with Tamiya's X-20 which is less stinky than lacquer types (Like Mr Levelling Thinner).
Spray cans give good results and can be economical if you can get them at a good price. And if you decide to get an airbrush at some point the Tamiya paints spray beautifully (50/50 thinner works for me) so no need to get other paints.
And mistakes will be made! (yesterday I masked and sprayed a panel and upon removing the mask found I had sprayed the wrong, much lighter green colour! Oops! 😂)
@@MatterusOD thanks so much for this formula, I've been up and down like a roller coaster on getting a good combo. Thanks again, Bob
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks Jon, this helps regroup. I've decided to just do a simple finish on the 1/72 scale pilots not super detail at this time. I'll definitely need to get to the model itself to climb up the curve . I do like the pastel idea too. Thanks, Bob.
@@c123bthunderpig You're welcome 🙂!
so this is essentially the hasegawa kit with different/better decals?
Yes. That's not bad news. The Hasegawa kit is a gem and the Italeri decals look great. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 No yeah, I agree, I was just curious