Thank you for putting this honest review up, I've just bought a 2021 discounted 6.9 for the missus as age is starting to limit her on a normal MTB when we go riding. I have much to learn, so got a lot out of your video. I used to own a bike shop once upon a time, but have no direct eBike experience. Cranks fall off when the square morse taper on the bottom bracket axle doesn't align well with a crank, common problem in cheaper systems. I assume the bottom bracket is part of the motor, so you are stuck with trying different cranks, and typically only the non drive side is a problem in my experience. If it continues to be a problem for people I'd be upgrading to a Shimano crank arm, just make sure it is the same length, doesn't need to be an expensive level one. Even just a new crank bolt will help as once these stretch a bit they won't hold the arm on very well. If using locktite, make sure you degrease the threads on both sides, and only use the medium strength stuff, the max strength will make removal incredibly difficult ( fought with many of those in my time! ) Freehubs in basic hubs are a common issue, more because they are often part of the hub and not swappable like Shimano or name brand hubs. The only real fix is a better hub, and that will be a wheel rebuild or a total wheel swap. I'm a bit amazed they don't at least have a better quality rear hub given the load on it with the additional motor, but I guess everything is built to a price. FYI you can often put a higher grade freehub body on a more basic hub, so if you swap out to a lower level hub, you can often upgrade the freehub to a higher level most of the time, so long as it is the same size and series. Takes a bit of research. Run the best chain you can afford, and beyond XT / SRAM XO etc it just becomes about less weight. If your bike comes with a KMC or some other chain, swap it to match your cluster asap before it stretches. Chain stretch is what really kills clusters, and if it comes down to cost, run a better level chain on lower cluster, as the chain will be the limiting factor. Maintain it well, use dry lube, often, and keep it CLEAN. Dirt is the sandpaper that kills chains. I'm actually amazed they just use normal bike chains on eBikes, I expected a stronger setup to be honest. No wonder they wear quicker with so much power transmission! Beware eBay fake Shimano/SRAM chains, they are incredibly good copies, you want a genuine chain ( obviously ) so use reputable online bike shops, or look up the videos on fake chains to educate yourself. A $29 XT chain is not genuine. On an EMTB you want to be running downhill level tyres, like Minion DHF etc, a Rekon is too much a race XC kinda tyre even for normal MTB. These types of tyres won't be light, but will be tough, and the bigger knobs and harder compounds will last longer. Also go for heavier sidewalls to handle the extra weight and avoid sidewall cuts. Appreciate the feedback on making sure the wheel circumference is set up right so you can get the true 25kph assist, let alone true odometer. Good tip, matters far more on an eBike. Also had no idea on the various chargers, appreciate the info on charging times. I'm looking forward to the learning process of maintaining this bike, and may even be tempted myself, one of these days, to go to the dark side if I can't keep up!
Thanks for the great comments. Since making this video I have done almost 12,000km on the bike and need to do an updated video. The Novotech rear hub chewed out after 3,500km, so I replaced the whole back wheel with a DT Swis H1900, the same that is used on your 6.9. It's been trouble-free and the best upgrade I've made to the bike. I replace the chain every 1300 - 1500 kms. I've tried both SLX and XT chains. I couldn't detect any difference except that the XT chain was the only one that broke (probably due to my ham-fistedness in changing while going up a steep pinch). The latest rear cassette now has over 7,500km on it, and is almost due for replacement - not bad considering the power that goes through the drivetrain. I have tried various chain lubes, and the best by far is Squirt. The chain runs smoother and shifts better using Squirt, and doesn't need to be cleaned. In fact in the instructions, they tell you not to clean it. After the Rekon, I changed to a Minion DHR and have had two of them that each lasted about 2,500km. I'm currently running a Pirelli Scorpion EMTB rear specific. It's very heavy duty (almost bulletproof) and has been totally trouble free. It now has 2,700 kms on it.
I’m 64 and have ordered a Jam2 6.7 (but it’s stuck in the Suez!). I ordered the light, connection cable, extension bar and grips on the strength of your review. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your experiences. I have exactly the same bike. I have had problems with ratchet bearing on my Novatech hub, After a thorough cleaning, new balls and heavy greasing, it works well again. I have some issues with KS dropper post. Chain and cassette have been upgraded to the xt M8100 series, my experience is that they go much further than the SLX wear parts. Love the Bike!!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I just picked up my first emtb, the 2021 jam2 6.8 not sure if it has an updated hub or not, can connect smartphone via Bluetooth to the display. Came with the standard 4ah charger too but did pay a fair premium for this, they all went up in price this year.
I suspect that the 6.8 will have the higher quality hub. Here is an article about the difference between the two hubs: bit.ly/3rjb8tV I would have gone with the 6.8 because it's got a much better spec than the 6.7. However, it was $2k more here in Australia and I didn't have permission. :-). How to do you like it?
I recently bought a Thron2 for my wife. She encourages me to loan it out to my MTB friends and they love it. One is a definite convert to ebikes. It's a very capable bike and they have no problems keeping up with me on the Jam2... but maybe that speaks more about my riding! :-) The Thron2 has a more upright seating position and is not as slack, so it's probably a bit more comfortable. I am planning to do a review on it when I get a chance.
Same story with left crank screw. I tightened it with torque wrench to 40 Nm and it holds. Regurarly though I do overhaul check on all screws with torque tool. Also I'm not very happy with Maxxis Rekon, before I had Specialized Butcher Grid and it gripped and lasted much longer. Slow 2A charger is healtier for the battery life in long term.
Same here. Once I tightened it up, I haven't had too many worries with it. Since doing the video I found that the Rekons were too light weight for an e-bike. So I'm now running Maxxis Minons EXO+ front (DHF) and rear (DHR). They are much thicker tyres and I haven't had any issues with them. I thought that the chunkier tread pattern would reduce battery range severely, but surprisingly they don't. They are also far grippier than the Rekons.
Great review Dusty. Some of the stories about excessive chain wear I think can be lack of maintenance. I've got a 2019 Trance E+3 and I got 2000 ks out of the first chain and the second has 2000 on it and looks like going for a while longer. The difference being that I've been hot waxing the second chain in a mixture of candle wax, paraffin and graphite powder. The cassette still looks fine. I spend about 60-70% of the time on bike trails and the rest on single trail. Now I'm going to be one of those old farts that corrects people. You keep talking about wheel diameter when it should be circumference. It's a small detail that can make a lot of difference.
Thanks mate. You're right, good chain maintenance is a must. It's grit that kills them so I clean mine after almost every ride. If I said diameter I meant circumference. I don't know what comes out of my mouth half the time! 😂
i think as well - it's best to start on a low gear / and eco mode and this lessens the wear too..? i'm looking at ebikes now and had mountain bikes for years but never replaced any components apart from brake pads..!
Just an update on the chain. I just replaced it with the cassette and tensioner wheels at 3,700 kms. The cassette had teeth broken off on a couple of the gears and the chain was skipping on some of the others. I was down to about 5 gears out of 12. The new drivetrain is smooth and silky. I didn't need to replace the chainring. Because it's made of steel it appears to be wearing better.
I didn't. The hub eventually chewed out and I couldn't find parts. So I ended buying a DT Swiss H1900 wheel, the same that is on on the 6.9. Highly recommended to use this wheel.
I was just about to buy one of these yesterday, then realised in the store when I sat on it that the rear shock doesn't lock out. Of course I can swap it out, but it was really at my budget limit as it was... going to ride it today, but as so many of my rides will include mixing between forest and gravel roads, I really wanted to have a lockout function. Do you find it bobbing a lot when on roads or flat paths etc? It look like I'm going to have go for a Scott Strike instead (my under €5000 options are very tight, due to the worldwide bike shortage). Thanks for the review... as I approach 50, and after a 12 year break from mountain biking (and leg and butt issues), I'm excited to open up the mt biking world again.... it was the best hobby I ever took seriously and loved (even going on mt biking trips to Spain, weekends in Wales etc. when I lived in the UK). Cheers fella!
Bobbing is not an issue on an e-bike. I had a lockout on my normal MTB and used it all the time when climbing hills. I have never needed to on the e-bike. You sit down riding up hills so there is no bobbing.
By activating the lighting port on the motor, via the Bosch dealer, the systems software reserves 10 percent battery charge for your lighting. The idea is, should you deplete the battery on a long ride, you still have some charge to power your lights whilst pedaling home unassisted. This is something to consider if you only occasionally use lights, especially when out riding with friends with bigger batteries or no lights. I`m not sure that you are correct about charging to 80 percent, as the battery itself has its own management and will charge itself to a suitable level according to battery condition and temperature conditions. The Germans know their stuff and the Bosch batteries are the only battery that would leave charging unattended. The cranks working loose is a common thing to keep an eye on as is the rear engine mounting plates. These work loose and start to creak. Chain wear is easily kept in check with a chain wear gauge, these cost around 10 bucks and will show when your you chain stretch is at 75 percent. Lapsing above 75 percent wears out the other components which is unnecessary. The bike is great I love my 2019 model.
Hi Simon, thanks for the feedback. That's interesting about the reserve charge for lights. It may be possible because the current draw is quite low compared to a motor. Yes, the Germans do know their stuff. I haven't heard and any Bosch ebikes going up in flames like many cheap Chinese ones do. If you leave the bike on charge, it will cut-off when it reaches 100%. However charging a Li-ion battery to 100% continually will reduce its lifespan. It's good practice to only partially charge any Li-ion battery (e.g. laptop, mobile etc.) because it extends the life. Batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycles. It's probably only 1,000 to 1,500 cycles on an e-bike battery. One cycle means 0 - 100%charge . If you only charge in a band of say, 30% - 80%, that would only be 50% of a full charge. Therefore, theoretically you could double the life of the battery. In practice, we don't normally charge in that range. I only charge my battery powered devices to about 80% or so, and the batteries last for years with very little degradation. My Lenovo computer has a conservation mode which limits charge to 60% capacity. It's about 4 years old, is plugged in all the time, and the battery still shows as being in good condition. The e-bike in this video is 2.5 years old and has now done 10,000km, and I don't notice any range degradation. According the bike shop computer it's had about 175 equivalent charge cycles.
My chain was stuffed after 500km and that 500km was done in 3.5 weeks. My son was also riding the bike within that time frame. All riding was done in the forest.
I have been replacing the chain at 1,500k. The latest cassette has about 7,000ks on it. Three of the middle gears sometimes skip sometimes now. Also, gear changes are slow because the chain takes more time to move between cogs. So when this chain is worn out I'll replace the whole drivetrain. The front chainring is original and now has 11,000ks on it.
People getting 500-1000km out of a cassette? wtf!! & you've only done 1700km with that sort of wear? That is seriously not good. I'd be expecting 10K+ out of a CHAIN - & wouldn't be replacing a cassette for a lot longer than that.
I'm up to 2,700 now with the same cassette and chain. Drivetrain wear depends on what sort of conditions you're riding in, and how well you maintain things. I know I would never get 10k out of a chain or cassette riding off-road. I've never got that, even on my normal MTB.
Like you I love the bike, it's given a 68yr old mountain biker a new lease of life! Thanks for the vid and the pointers very useful. 👍
Thank you for putting this honest review up, I've just bought a 2021 discounted 6.9 for the missus as age is starting to limit her on a normal MTB when we go riding. I have much to learn, so got a lot out of your video.
I used to own a bike shop once upon a time, but have no direct eBike experience. Cranks fall off when the square morse taper on the bottom bracket axle doesn't align well with a crank, common problem in cheaper systems. I assume the bottom bracket is part of the motor, so you are stuck with trying different cranks, and typically only the non drive side is a problem in my experience. If it continues to be a problem for people I'd be upgrading to a Shimano crank arm, just make sure it is the same length, doesn't need to be an expensive level one. Even just a new crank bolt will help as once these stretch a bit they won't hold the arm on very well. If using locktite, make sure you degrease the threads on both sides, and only use the medium strength stuff, the max strength will make removal incredibly difficult ( fought with many of those in my time! )
Freehubs in basic hubs are a common issue, more because they are often part of the hub and not swappable like Shimano or name brand hubs. The only real fix is a better hub, and that will be a wheel rebuild or a total wheel swap. I'm a bit amazed they don't at least have a better quality rear hub given the load on it with the additional motor, but I guess everything is built to a price. FYI you can often put a higher grade freehub body on a more basic hub, so if you swap out to a lower level hub, you can often upgrade the freehub to a higher level most of the time, so long as it is the same size and series. Takes a bit of research.
Run the best chain you can afford, and beyond XT / SRAM XO etc it just becomes about less weight. If your bike comes with a KMC or some other chain, swap it to match your cluster asap before it stretches. Chain stretch is what really kills clusters, and if it comes down to cost, run a better level chain on lower cluster, as the chain will be the limiting factor. Maintain it well, use dry lube, often, and keep it CLEAN. Dirt is the sandpaper that kills chains. I'm actually amazed they just use normal bike chains on eBikes, I expected a stronger setup to be honest. No wonder they wear quicker with so much power transmission! Beware eBay fake Shimano/SRAM chains, they are incredibly good copies, you want a genuine chain ( obviously ) so use reputable online bike shops, or look up the videos on fake chains to educate yourself. A $29 XT chain is not genuine.
On an EMTB you want to be running downhill level tyres, like Minion DHF etc, a Rekon is too much a race XC kinda tyre even for normal MTB. These types of tyres won't be light, but will be tough, and the bigger knobs and harder compounds will last longer. Also go for heavier sidewalls to handle the extra weight and avoid sidewall cuts.
Appreciate the feedback on making sure the wheel circumference is set up right so you can get the true 25kph assist, let alone true odometer. Good tip, matters far more on an eBike.
Also had no idea on the various chargers, appreciate the info on charging times.
I'm looking forward to the learning process of maintaining this bike, and may even be tempted myself, one of these days, to go to the dark side if I can't keep up!
Thanks for the great comments.
Since making this video I have done almost 12,000km on the bike and need to do an updated video.
The Novotech rear hub chewed out after 3,500km, so I replaced the whole back wheel with a DT Swis H1900, the same that is used on your 6.9. It's been trouble-free and the best upgrade I've made to the bike.
I replace the chain every 1300 - 1500 kms. I've tried both SLX and XT chains. I couldn't detect any difference except that the XT chain was the only one that broke (probably due to my ham-fistedness in changing while going up a steep pinch). The latest rear cassette now has over 7,500km on it, and is almost due for replacement - not bad considering the power that goes through the drivetrain. I have tried various chain lubes, and the best by far is Squirt. The chain runs smoother and shifts better using Squirt, and doesn't need to be cleaned. In fact in the instructions, they tell you not to clean it.
After the Rekon, I changed to a Minion DHR and have had two of them that each lasted about 2,500km. I'm currently running a Pirelli Scorpion EMTB rear specific. It's very heavy duty (almost bulletproof) and has been totally trouble free. It now has 2,700 kms on it.
I’m 64 and have ordered a Jam2 6.7 (but it’s stuck in the Suez!). I ordered the light, connection cable, extension bar and grips on the strength of your review. Thanks.
You'll love it.
Thank you for sharing your experiences. I have exactly the same bike. I have had problems with ratchet bearing on my Novatech hub, After a thorough cleaning, new balls and heavy greasing, it works well again. I have some issues with KS dropper post. Chain and cassette have been upgraded to the xt M8100 series, my experience is that they go much further than the SLX wear parts. Love the Bike!!
Thanks for that. I was just looking at new chains yesterday, so I'll try the XT version and see how it goes.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I just picked up my first emtb, the 2021 jam2 6.8 not sure if it has an updated hub or not, can connect smartphone via Bluetooth to the display. Came with the standard 4ah charger too but did pay a fair premium for this, they all went up in price this year.
I suspect that the 6.8 will have the higher quality hub.
Here is an article about the difference between the two hubs: bit.ly/3rjb8tV
I would have gone with the 6.8 because it's got a much better spec than the 6.7. However, it was $2k more here in Australia and I didn't have permission. :-).
How to do you like it?
Some handy info thanks for taking the time to share. I'm off tomorrow morning for a test ride.
I predict that if it's a Jam2, you will love it.
@@eScapes1 yeah it's the same as ur model but 2021 release. I've talked myself into 75% purchase 👍
@@sonofagreatsouthernland it's probably one of the best value e-bikes on the market at the moment. You won't be disappointed.
@@eScapes1 that's the conclusion I came to! 😎
I’m considering buying a Thron the Jam looks great but is a bit over my budget. Thanks for your review it looks like Focus is top notch quality.
I recently bought a Thron2 for my wife. She encourages me to loan it out to my MTB friends and they love it. One is a definite convert to ebikes.
It's a very capable bike and they have no problems keeping up with me on the Jam2... but maybe that speaks more about my riding! :-)
The Thron2 has a more upright seating position and is not as slack, so it's probably a bit more comfortable. I am planning to do a review on it when I get a chance.
@@eScapes1 Great, looking forward to your review!
Same story with left crank screw. I tightened it with torque wrench to 40 Nm and it holds. Regurarly though I do overhaul check on all screws with torque tool.
Also I'm not very happy with Maxxis Rekon, before I had Specialized Butcher Grid and it gripped and lasted much longer.
Slow 2A charger is healtier for the battery life in long term.
Same here. Once I tightened it up, I haven't had too many worries with it.
Since doing the video I found that the Rekons were too light weight for an e-bike. So I'm now running Maxxis Minons EXO+ front (DHF) and rear (DHR). They are much thicker tyres and I haven't had any issues with them. I thought that the chunkier tread pattern would reduce battery range severely, but surprisingly they don't. They are also far grippier than the Rekons.
Great review Dusty. Some of the stories about excessive chain wear I think can be lack of maintenance. I've got a 2019 Trance E+3 and I got 2000 ks out of the first chain and the second has 2000 on it and looks like going for a while longer. The difference being that I've been hot waxing the second chain in a mixture of candle wax, paraffin and graphite powder. The cassette still looks fine. I spend about 60-70% of the time on bike trails and the rest on single trail.
Now I'm going to be one of those old farts that corrects people. You keep talking about wheel diameter when it should be circumference. It's a small detail that can make a lot of difference.
Thanks mate. You're right, good chain maintenance is a must. It's grit that kills them so I clean mine after almost every ride.
If I said diameter I meant circumference. I don't know what comes out of my mouth half the time! 😂
i think as well - it's best to start on a low gear / and eco mode and this lessens the wear too..?
i'm looking at ebikes now and had mountain bikes for years but never replaced any components apart from brake pads..!
Just an update on the chain. I just replaced it with the cassette and tensioner wheels at 3,700 kms. The cassette had teeth broken off on a couple of the gears and the chain was skipping on some of the others. I was down to about 5 gears out of 12. The new drivetrain is smooth and silky. I didn't need to replace the chainring. Because it's made of steel it appears to be wearing better.
@@eScapes1 nice, i just bought a canyon neuron:ON 8 and loving it...
@@TheWeardale1 Good stuff. You should do a review. :-)
Thanks for the review. Question how did you contact Novatech hubs?
I didn't. The hub eventually chewed out and I couldn't find parts. So I ended buying a DT Swiss H1900 wheel, the same that is on on the 6.9. Highly recommended to use this wheel.
Ergon grips are great. I don’t like the Purion display, far too vulnerable. I have just ordered a 7.8 Jam2 with the EP8 motor.
I was just about to buy one of these yesterday, then realised in the store when I sat on it that the rear shock doesn't lock out. Of course I can swap it out, but it was really at my budget limit as it was... going to ride it today, but as so many of my rides will include mixing between forest and gravel roads, I really wanted to have a lockout function. Do you find it bobbing a lot when on roads or flat paths etc? It look like I'm going to have go for a Scott Strike instead (my under €5000 options are very tight, due to the worldwide bike shortage). Thanks for the review... as I approach 50, and after a 12 year break from mountain biking (and leg and butt issues), I'm excited to open up the mt biking world again.... it was the best hobby I ever took seriously and loved (even going on mt biking trips to Spain, weekends in Wales etc. when I lived in the UK). Cheers fella!
Bobbing is not an issue on an e-bike. I had a lockout on my normal MTB and used it all the time when climbing hills. I have never needed to on the e-bike. You sit down riding up hills so there is no bobbing.
cool......i learnt a lot. I like the rear mud guard btw
By activating the lighting port on the motor, via the Bosch dealer, the systems software reserves 10 percent battery charge for your lighting. The idea is, should you deplete the battery on a long ride, you still have some charge to power your lights whilst pedaling home unassisted. This is something to consider if you only occasionally use lights, especially when out riding with friends with bigger batteries or no lights. I`m not sure that you are correct about charging to 80 percent, as the battery itself has its own management and will charge itself to a suitable level according to battery condition and temperature conditions. The Germans know their stuff and the Bosch batteries are the only battery that would leave charging unattended. The cranks working loose is a common thing to keep an eye on as is the rear engine mounting plates. These work loose and start to creak. Chain wear is easily kept in check with a chain wear gauge, these cost around 10 bucks and will show when your you chain stretch is at 75 percent. Lapsing above 75 percent wears out the other components which is unnecessary. The bike is great I love my 2019 model.
Hi Simon, thanks for the feedback.
That's interesting about the reserve charge for lights. It may be possible because the current draw is quite low compared to a motor.
Yes, the Germans do know their stuff. I haven't heard and any Bosch ebikes going up in flames like many cheap Chinese ones do.
If you leave the bike on charge, it will cut-off when it reaches 100%. However charging a Li-ion battery to 100% continually will reduce its lifespan.
It's good practice to only partially charge any Li-ion battery (e.g. laptop, mobile etc.) because it extends the life.
Batteries have a limited number of charge/discharge cycles. It's probably only 1,000 to 1,500 cycles on an e-bike battery. One cycle means 0 - 100%charge . If you only charge in a band of say, 30% - 80%, that would only be 50% of a full charge. Therefore, theoretically you could double the life of the battery. In practice, we don't normally charge in that range.
I only charge my battery powered devices to about 80% or so, and the batteries last for years with very little degradation. My Lenovo computer has a conservation mode which limits charge to 60% capacity. It's about 4 years old, is plugged in all the time, and the battery still shows as being in good condition.
The e-bike in this video is 2.5 years old and has now done 10,000km, and I don't notice any range degradation. According the bike shop computer it's had about 175 equivalent charge cycles.
My chain was stuffed after 500km and that 500km was done in 3.5 weeks.
My son was also riding the bike within that time frame. All riding was done in the forest.
Wow. Why do you think it wore out so fast?
The best I can get out of a high quality chain is 1500k but I will go through at least three chains before I change the cassette.
I have been replacing the chain at 1,500k. The latest cassette has about 7,000ks on it.
Three of the middle gears sometimes skip sometimes now. Also, gear changes are slow because the chain takes more time to move between cogs. So when this chain is worn out I'll replace the whole drivetrain.
The front chainring is original and now has 11,000ks on it.
People getting 500-1000km out of a cassette? wtf!! & you've only done 1700km with that sort of wear? That is seriously not good. I'd be expecting 10K+ out of a CHAIN - & wouldn't be replacing a cassette for a lot longer than that.
I'm up to 2,700 now with the same cassette and chain. Drivetrain wear depends on what sort of conditions you're riding in, and how well you maintain things. I know I would never get 10k out of a chain or cassette riding off-road. I've never got that, even on my normal MTB.