Not bad bro nice work. Run a solid gig here dont mind your system. Run a proper screed over it after the darby and slack accordingly and re screed for a straighter finish and id definetely be using rockcote keycoat over waterproof for sure aswell. Patch and prep has no aggregate its too fine and not enough checmicals lol.
Yeah I used to do it like that 10 years ago and you defiantly get a flatter finish but to be fair I can get it just as flat as if I went over it with a c channel, you just have a lot more material wastage unless there paying for a screed job I’ll just Darby it, ketcote is also really good but I’ve never had a problem with patch and prep always stuck to my waterproofing, if it’s the real heavy stuff what drys like rubber I’ll use keycote, also patch is a bit easier to spread, I’ve worked for a few different solid plastering crews and they all do it a little different, as long as we get the same end results, back In the day we all did sand cement bullnosed it all and but it on 10-12mm thick and keyed it between coats now it’s all gone to this bag shit and it’s more a skim coat product in my option, you’ll know how it is it’s very demanding on the body so anything to make our job a little easier iam going to do it.
Sometimes I do or give the wall a bit of a damp if I need a bit more time with it, this product has all the bonding and additives in it and I add a little extra bond in the mix too, I like to give it 24 hours between coats with this product covers the block work up a lot better and stops the mortar joints showing through 👍
Plastic beads, a big no no!!!! Also no point cutting an expansion joint if the bricky hasn't left one, it's pointless. I noticed the Dulux acratex buckets. Best texture out there but super expensive. I always use the Dulux Coventry medium texture here in Melbourne . Very clean work my friend.
@@Trekz86 rockcote render is designed to be used with plastic beads, every renderer I know uses them and I’ve had no issue with cracking and adhesive or bonding using this product for over 15 years, if you haven’t used rockcote before understand the procedures and requirements with the particular product before stating someone is applying it wrong. The expansion line I know that’s why one wasn’t put in when it should have been by the brick layers over that span.
@@millsfitness4742 fair enough but I've never used plastic beads and never will. I use the aluminium meshed beads. Can't go wrong with them. I've used rockcotes texture but never their renders. I use unitex base coats and Dulux texture . Your work is very clean 👌
What a Job !!,,so many questions ,what's a Derby finish? Is this silicone render or sand/cement? What was the textured finish you mention was to be done in a few weeks? Will you be posting the job on your channel? Could you paint as is ? Fantastic skills mate !
Beaded it, first coat, top coat - wollen duffel, darby, float, sponge finish, straight beads 'n all, two scoops of vanilla, a packet of crisps and a pint of lager. Fast motion all looks champion but I'm fucked if I know bugger all about his mix and application technique 'n all the shite one might need to know. I guess if you know, you know but I don't know and although ol' matey here showed a brillyant finished wall I had trouble learning fook all. Slow down a bit mon 'n show and tell so's we can all learn your ways. A big wide shot shows some stuff 'n things from a distance but fook all really. Mud on.
my friend if you really want to learn rendering , follow this mans videos he explain everything you need to know , no music no fast forward just pure explanation about everything that is got to do with rendering walls plus the mixtures . ruclips.net/video/-L8CK7MSEn0/видео.html
Hey mate, great work. With your beads on the corners, how do you cut them to fit? Top long edges first then short end edge? Followed by the vertical edges to the ground? Did you affix them with normal render or is it best to use patch and prep stuff from a bucket? Cheers!
Thanks mate, I use tin snips to cut them easiest and quickest way, it depends what iam doing, retaining wall like this I’ll always do the tops (horizontal ) first then the corners, if iam doing a window I’ll do the two vertical reveals first then the head and sill you get a more accurate cut that way, you can use normal render to stick them with just add a bit of bond with the mix to get a more solid fixing, I like the pre blended patch and prep because it sets really hard but it’s just personal preference 👍
I have been trying for a long time to get my porch rendered. I have had no takers as they only do the colured render now and it is very exspensive. Nobody wants to do sand and cement rendering anymore.
Yeah there’s not many renderers doing sand and cement anymore I know a couple of guys but it’s all this pre blended render makes our life’s easier lol, i don’t mind doing it if the job calls for it
It’s just a standard waterproofing to protect and seal the block wall, with all the back fill and soil behind the wall there’s always going to be moisture trapped there, you apply the waterproofing to stop penetration. The patch and prep is a product that sticks to the waterproofing to allow for the base coat of the render to bond to the wall, you can’t put just any render on the waterproofing because it will crack and peel off.
Just to to let I am a plasterer with 4 genenration time severed Apprentisship with 60 years experinece Was using you to demosate a someome who was I show someone and they being a ass but I don't we did not carry cameras back in mu day thanks jf
You don’t always have to do that, especially with the pre mixed bag render it has all the additives in it plus I put bond in the mix, I float the first coat with a polystyrene float which leaves a rough key for the top coat, done it for 12 + years never once gone back to a job because of the render blowing of, I used to use that system back in the uk, every country has different systems that works not just a one way fits everything 👍
Hey mate, yes it’s normal as it’s the part of the wall closes to the ground it will naturally absorb the water/moisture from the ground, you can fix a drip mould slightly of the ground to keep the render off the bottom (usually sand & cement) with this product it has tons of additives and bonding agents so it doesn’t require a drip mould, never had any problems with the water getting behind the render causing it to crack, so yeah perfectly normal 👍
@@millsfitness4742 mine looks as if the water is at the bottom of the wall behind the wall due to it being concrete on the ground But I suppose you'll never completely remove all water from the ground in an enclosed space
@serdarniyazi it’s hard to know without seeing it, depending on the product you’ve used and few other factors, just check for cracks and boxing so tap on the wall we’re it is wet and see if it sounds Drummy that’s a good indication that the render is coming away
Haha thats funny because it’s been 4 years and it hasn’t cracked, you don’t need to mesh the corners with this product, if you understood the procedures and tolerances of different products you’d realise that, if you have never used this material before I wouldn’t be making comments on it, not everything is the same with all materials
Apologies for the late reply, there 3.5mm there’s different depths you can buy, 2.5mm for skim coating, I buy them from from a builders merchant called Lyndon’s, some Dulux stores sell them and other paint shops that sell render products usually have them along with render centres. 👍
rockcote.com.au/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ffztrfe8QIVoZJmAh26gA6CEAAYASAAEgLGn_D_BwE Rockcotes website with all the products they sell, local place for me to buy it is lyndons builders merchant, they are a lot of paint shops that also sell it (Australian product only)
How many times haveya had to go back and repair because the rain has got underneath where ya havnt put drip beads on. Alot of self take plasterers make that mistake
What is a self take plasterer lol iam qualified with over 15 years experience, understand your products before you have a judgement call on something you don’t understand, not once have I gone back to fix a job with this pre blended render you can render straight to the concrete without any drip mould or beads needed, blue board and other cement sheet rendering yes but it is not required for block or brick work with this product.
I explained the steps of the process of rendering a wall, the important things I explained, the actual application of render takes practice which you only learn by doing, which I thought was self explanatory I guess not in some cases.
Perfect rendering mate you obviously know what your doing!
Appreciate it
Great video fella.
Top work.
Coming from a UK spread.
thats unreal mate good to see you take pride in your work. will deffs hit you up if i need some rendering
Lewis Erskine thanks brother, thought I’d try something different, defiantly man, the way I got taught is do something right or not at all
The trolley is a good idea 💡 👍👍
Fantastic clean job bud 👍
wow, awesome work
Great job
Very nice!
Not bad bro nice work. Run a solid gig here dont mind your system. Run a proper screed over it after the darby and slack accordingly and re screed for a straighter finish and id definetely be using rockcote keycoat over waterproof for sure aswell. Patch and prep has no aggregate its too fine and not enough checmicals lol.
Yeah I used to do it like that 10 years ago and you defiantly get a flatter finish but to be fair I can get it just as flat as if I went over it with a c channel, you just have a lot more material wastage unless there paying for a screed job I’ll just Darby it, ketcote is also really good but I’ve never had a problem with patch and prep always stuck to my waterproofing, if it’s the real heavy stuff what drys like rubber I’ll use keycote, also patch is a bit easier to spread, I’ve worked for a few different solid plastering crews and they all do it a little different, as long as we get the same end results, back In the day we all did sand cement bullnosed it all and but it on 10-12mm thick and keyed it between coats now it’s all gone to this bag shit and it’s more a skim coat product in my option, you’ll know how it is it’s very demanding on the body so anything to make our job a little easier iam going to do it.
Put bonding agent on the block will kill the suction and stop the block lines showing scratch & double it the same day
Tidy work lad👍
Sometimes I do or give the wall a bit of a damp if I need a bit more time with it, this product has all the bonding and additives in it and I add a little extra bond in the mix too, I like to give it 24 hours between coats with this product covers the block work up a lot better and stops the mortar joints showing through 👍
Plastic beads, a big no no!!!! Also no point cutting an expansion joint if the bricky hasn't left one, it's pointless. I noticed the Dulux acratex buckets. Best texture out there but super expensive. I always use the Dulux Coventry medium texture here in Melbourne . Very clean work my friend.
@@Trekz86 rockcote render is designed to be used with plastic beads, every renderer I know uses them and I’ve had no issue with cracking and adhesive or bonding using this product for over 15 years, if you haven’t used rockcote before understand the procedures and requirements with the particular product before stating someone is applying it wrong. The expansion line I know that’s why one wasn’t put in when it should have been by the brick layers over that span.
@@millsfitness4742 fair enough but I've never used plastic beads and never will. I use the aluminium meshed beads. Can't go wrong with them. I've used rockcotes texture but never their renders. I use unitex base coats and Dulux texture . Your work is very clean 👌
@@Trekz86 I understand, I’ve used aluminium mesh beads and there a great alternative also. Thanks
Classy bit of work
What a Job !!,,so many questions ,what's a Derby finish? Is this silicone render or sand/cement? What was the textured finish you mention was to be done in a few weeks? Will you be posting the job on your channel? Could you paint as is ? Fantastic skills mate !
Beaded it, first coat, top coat - wollen duffel, darby, float, sponge finish, straight beads 'n all, two scoops of vanilla, a packet of crisps and a pint of lager. Fast motion all looks champion but I'm fucked if I know bugger all about his mix and application technique 'n all the shite one might need to know. I guess if you know, you know but I don't know and although ol' matey here showed a brillyant finished wall I had trouble learning fook all. Slow down a bit mon 'n show and tell so's we can all learn your ways. A big wide shot shows some stuff 'n things from a distance but fook all really. Mud on.
my friend if you really want to learn rendering , follow this mans videos he explain everything you need to know , no music no fast forward just pure explanation about everything that is got to do with rendering walls plus the mixtures .
ruclips.net/video/-L8CK7MSEn0/видео.html
Hey mate, great work. With your beads on the corners, how do you cut them to fit? Top long edges first then short end edge? Followed by the vertical edges to the ground? Did you affix them with normal render or is it best to use patch and prep stuff from a bucket? Cheers!
Thanks mate, I use tin snips to cut them easiest and quickest way, it depends what iam doing, retaining wall like this I’ll always do the tops (horizontal ) first then the corners, if iam doing a window I’ll do the two vertical reveals first then the head and sill you get a more accurate cut that way, you can use normal render to stick them with just add a bit of bond with the mix to get a more solid fixing, I like the pre blended patch and prep because it sets really hard but it’s just personal preference 👍
@@millsfitness4742 thanks bro, doing a small job and you’ve just answered my questions perfectly. The Bunnings videos don’t show you everything haha
No worries mate, glad I could help hope everything goes well 🤙
I have been trying for a long time to get my porch rendered. I have had no takers as they only do the colured render now and it is very exspensive. Nobody wants to do sand and cement rendering anymore.
Yeah there’s not many renderers doing sand and cement anymore I know a couple of guys but it’s all this pre blended render makes our life’s easier lol, i don’t mind doing it if the job calls for it
Bravo 👍👍
Jist looking at the landscape youre in australia ?
Looks great. What was the waterproofing stuff on the back ? Set and prep did you say ? And what was on below that ?
Thanks
It’s just a standard waterproofing to protect and seal the block wall, with all the back fill and soil behind the wall there’s always going to be moisture trapped there, you apply the waterproofing to stop penetration.
The patch and prep is a product that sticks to the waterproofing to allow for the base coat of the render to bond to the wall, you can’t put just any render on the waterproofing because it will crack and peel off.
beautiful! which area you work for？
Qld Australia
Just to to let I am a plasterer with 4 genenration time severed Apprentisship with 60 years experinece Was using you to demosate a someome who was I show someone and they being a ass but I don't we did not carry cameras back in mu day thanks jf
Was that a diamond float you used?
Good Job
polystyrene attached to a diamond float
@@millsfitness4742
Which one do you prefer?
Polystyrene, not so rigid makes it easier to float with in my opinion 👍
what products did you use?
You never scratched ,your first coat for a key or wet down the wall it will blow and bolster off.
You don’t always have to do that, especially with the pre mixed bag render it has all the additives in it plus I put bond in the mix, I float the first coat with a polystyrene float which leaves a rough key for the top coat, done it for 12 + years never once gone back to a job because of the render blowing of, I used to use that system back in the uk, every country has different systems that works not just a one way fits everything 👍
Not good could have scuded one coat no prob
Nice job do very neet
Hi mate noticed your wall is damp in the bottom of the wall I have the same with mine is this normal for water to pool in the bottom of the
Hey mate, yes it’s normal as it’s the part of the wall closes to the ground it will naturally absorb the water/moisture from the ground, you can fix a drip mould slightly of the ground to keep the render off the bottom (usually sand & cement) with this product it has tons of additives and bonding agents so it doesn’t require a drip mould, never had any problems with the water getting behind the render causing it to crack, so yeah perfectly normal 👍
@@millsfitness4742 mine looks as if the water is at the bottom of the wall behind the wall due to it being concrete on the ground
But I suppose you'll never completely remove all water from the ground in an enclosed space
@serdarniyazi it’s hard to know without seeing it, depending on the product you’ve used and few other factors, just check for cracks and boxing so tap on the wall we’re it is wet and see if it sounds Drummy that’s a good indication that the render is coming away
Can't wait for 12 months and the plastic corner beads have cracked.
Amatuer
Haha thats funny because it’s been 4 years and it hasn’t cracked, you don’t need to mesh the corners with this product, if you understood the procedures and tolerances of different products you’d realise that, if you have never used this material before I wouldn’t be making comments on it, not everything is the same with all materials
What is the depths of your beeding? and where do you buy your beeding from?
Apologies for the late reply, there 3.5mm there’s different depths you can buy, 2.5mm for skim coating, I buy them from from a builders merchant called Lyndon’s, some Dulux stores sell them and other paint shops that sell render products usually have them along with render centres. 👍
Could you give me a link of the product you mentioned.
rockcote.com.au/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ffztrfe8QIVoZJmAh26gA6CEAAYASAAEgLGn_D_BwE
Rockcotes website with all the products they sell, local place for me to buy it is lyndons builders merchant, they are a lot of paint shops that also sell it (Australian product only)
How many times haveya had to go back and repair because the rain has got underneath where ya havnt put drip beads on.
Alot of self take plasterers make that mistake
What is a self take plasterer lol iam qualified with over 15 years experience, understand your products before you have a judgement call on something you don’t understand, not once have I gone back to fix a job with this pre blended render you can render straight to the concrete without any drip mould or beads needed, blue board and other cement sheet rendering yes but it is not required for block or brick work with this product.
What type of render was that
It’s a pre mixed bag render called rockcote, it’s an Australian product
Scratch coat..
what is the name of the plaster
It’s a render product called rockcote off white
At no point did that teach how to render a wall. You did not show any technique. All the stuff that was useful was speeded up.
I explained the steps of the process of rendering a wall, the important things I explained, the actual application of render takes practice which you only learn by doing, which I thought was self explanatory I guess not in some cases.
@@millsfitness4742 James is just a tool,pass no heed on him..Beads look super accurate too👍