Profitable CNC Projects: How To Create Address Signs On Shapeoko 5 Pro! | Brett's Laser Garage
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2024
- Step into the world of CNC with this beginner-friendly guide on making address signs that sell using the Shapeoko 5 Pro. Start your next project with the best tools in hand! Shop now and Get 10% off Monport lasers & accessories using CODE Brett10 at bit.ly/3VUoFXt
Perfect for those starting their CNC journey or looking to add profitable projects to their portfolio. Download the free design file and follow along for a step-by-step tutorial. Thanks for watching, and don't hesitate to reach out with questions!
Link to FREE design file- cutrocket.com/p/65b751f122977
Surfacingbit-idcwoodcraft.com/products/1-5...
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This video is about Profitable CNC Projects: How To Create Address Signs On Shapeoko 5 Pro. But It also covers the following topics:
CNC Project Guide
Making Money With CNC
Shapeoko 5 Pro For Beginners
Video Title: Profitable CNC Projects: How To Create Address Signs On Shapeoko 5 Pro! | Brett's Laser Garage
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Hey there! Welcome to Brett's Laser Garage - your go-to place for everything lasers, CNCs, and creative projects. Get into my garage, where my wife and I turn ideas into reality using laser engraving and CNC routing. I've covered you, from cool DIY guides to detailed reviews of the latest tools. Join me as I explore the ins and outs of running a home-based business with these amazing tools. Whether you're here to learn or just for fun, there's something for everyone. Remember to subscribe and be part of my journey!
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#shapeoko5pro #cncprojects #addresssigns #beginnercnc #diycnc #profitablecrafts
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Хобби
You've inspired my bf and I to invest in the Shapeoko!!! TY!!!
Awesome! Good luck with your CNC journey!
Brett,
Keep doing what you’re doing as it keeps pushing me towards pulling the trigger on a Shapeoko 5 purchase. Your well explained tutorials give me confidence in attempting this new hobby!
Right on! Thank you very much. More on the way.
Thank you for the video. It was helpful to see the entire process.
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect...
Exactly what I need as a CNC newbee
Can't wait to get my Shapokoe 5 Pro 2x2
regards, Rick
Wow thank you! Good luck with your new CNC
Great video! I love my SO5 Pro. I know if you run the vbit a second time it really cleans things up and reduces post processing time. Loved the presentation and gave me new ideas! Thanks for the content and inspiration
Yep 💯 that is great advice. I had that in the video but cut it out 😂. Thanks a lot.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it, more to come.
This was great. I just got my Shapeoko Pro 5, so I have a lot to learn. I watched the Carbide videos and this is 100X better than those.
Thanks for all the links and helpful information.
question... I am new at this... could you run the chamfer first to prevent switching the tool 2 more times?
I don't know how hard it would be... but chapters in the video would be very helpful to allow quick access to certain sections for review. Just a suggestion. But I love the content and delivery. THanks!
Thanks a lot for the feedback Jay and congrats on the new machine. You can definitely run the chamfer first if you’d like, no issues there.
Your videos help a beginner out a LOT! Would CA glue and blue tape hold the piece down well enough when doing the surfacing passes?
Thanks, I’m glad they help out. CA glue and blue tape works also, as well as double sided tape. I just prefer to use the clamps because I think it’s a little easier.
Love the videos! How would you recommend installing one of these numerous signs?
I usually add a sawtooth hanger to back. Sometimes I route a keyhole slot.
Thank you very much!!!!!!
You're welcome!
Hi Brett, Thanks for making these very helpful videos. I was wondering if there was a reason you did not run the chamfer operation after the flatting operation? I think that would have saved you from having to do a tool change correct?
Key Keith thanks a lot! You could run the chamfer path first like you mentioned. I don’t see how it would save a tool change unless you flatten with a 1/4 endmill. I used a 1 1/2” flattening bit. Thanks a lot for checking out the video.
@@LaserGarage Thanks for the reply Brett. I don't have a CNC yet, I've been a laser guy for the last 10 years, so I'm trying to figure some of this stuff out before buying a machine. I was thinking that if you ran your flatting path first (1 1/2" flattening bit), then your chamfer (90° Vee ), followed by all of your pocket and cutout paths (1/4" end mill). Counting the first tool that is three total changes. The way you have it in the video is: 1 1/2" flatting, 1/4" end mill for the pockets, 90° Vee for the chamfer, and the 1/4" end mill to cut it out. That is a total of 4 changes. Again, I don't know what I'm talking about, so just asking to learn!
thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
nicely explained simple project. How do you recommend hanging or mounting the signs?
Thanks a lot! I either cut a key hole slot in the back with a palm router or just screw in a saw tooth hanger.
❤ the gel stain
I thought this was a very good presentation. WHY? Sometimes presenters go too fast. 1. Your speed was perfect. You do what some don't and that is moving in a normal speed so that we can see what your type and where you are typing. 2. You were very clear on your next moves and I was able to follow along as I created a design for my home. If I had a question, it would pertain to the leveling bit. If the wood is slightly warped, what side to you cut first: concave or convex? I also noticed that you turned of the bitsetter. Got it. But you only zero'd out the Z. How did the machine know the size of the surface area? I usually start in the lower left corner, but you seemed to start near the middle by eyeballing it. Thank you for this video. Your style of presenting is perfect for me. I will be viewing your other videos. Carbide3D should watch how you do your videos. They have good content too, but some are too fast.
Thank you very much! I’m glad you got something from the video.
1. I would have convex side facing up so the piece would be most stable on the bed.
2. I disabled the bit setter because by 1.5” surfacing bit is too large to fit on it. Therefore I had to manually set the z height. The x and y axis were not changed since my stock was on my fence system. It only needed to be set once during the initial setups.
3. The machine knew the size of the surface area because I set it in carbide create. Basically my tool path was a 6.5”x14.5” rectangle with a shallow pocket .005”. My origin was bottom left
Thanks for sharing. I noticed you are using some sort of game controller. I'm going to buy the 5 pro and wanted to use my Xbox controller, are they difficult to setup and do you need some sort of middle ware to make them work? Just curious. Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
Thank you, you’re welcome. I’m using a small wireless keyboard, I have an affiliate link to it in the description of the video if you want to check it out. Pretty inexpensive and very helpful. I’m not sure if there’s a way to make an Xbox controller work on the Shapeoko.
How do you get the tool path to the machine from a desktop in another room that you did the design work on?
I design on my office PC and transfer the file to my tablet connected to my Shapeoko via USB stick.
Is the Pro version the only way to reduce the curves in the corners of the numbers? Could you outline with a smaller bit and then contour with the larger bit? I realize you were keeping this video simple, which I appreciate, but my brain is running with ideas.
It’s definitely not the only way. Just efficient to use the rest machining option. Otherwise you’d have to run a pocket tool path with a 1/8” or small endmill. That will work but it takes a lot of time.
@@LaserGarage I wondered this (haven't tried it) Could you do a contour with the 1/8" bit before doing the pocket with the 1/4"?
#wasteboard and we need one, thank you!
You’re welcome. Thank you!
I make and sell quite a few wooden flags, my customers really like the texture of the stars and images when they are carved with a dremel. My question is:
1) how do you just outline the stars/images in carbide create?
2) would it be better to use a 60 degree v bit or a 30 degree engraver bit?
After doing this for a couple of years, the fine detailing of outlining is taking its toll on my wrist. I want to be able to be able to outline the stars and images and go back with the dremel to remove the excess. If that makes sense?
Yes that makes total sense and is a really good idea I must say.
1. To outline only the stars I would just select the star vector and create a contour tool path. You'll have to test various tools but I would try to use a 60 degree v-bit with no offset and a total depth of like .05". Maybe even try a 30 degree engraving bit. The point is you just want to lightly outline the perimeter of the star without going too deep. Will take a little testing.
2. I either use a 90 or 60 degree v-bit to engrave stars. I'm like the 60 degree a little more lately though. The 60 degree will engrave a little deeper but they both look good.
@@LaserGarage another question. Have you made any inlaid pieces? I’ve never inlaid something and I was wondering, could you inlay a piece of wood with the pocketed portion v carved out? For example, a word or phrase that’s been v carved instead of pocketed. I realize a pocketed piece would have more surface area for the glue to hole, but would the angle of the recess be adequate to hold the inlay in the piece? I don’t know if I’m explaining it well enough. I have a customer that wants a heart shaped charcuterie board with the names of all the grand children’s names in cursive inlaid into the board.
Would that be something you could make a video about with carbide creative?
Sorry I haven’t done any inlay work yet on the CNC. It’s a great idea for a future video though, thanks.
Sounds like filling a v-carve with epoxy may give the look your customer may be after.
Great video ....one thing wear safety glasses running machines / tools one splinter , dust , or piece in your eyes will hurt
Thanks. Great point!
Je kan ook een “downcut bit” gebruiken, dan hoef je de toplaag niet zo schuren
Yes true, but I like the up cut in this situation because it creates a cleaner pocket bottom. This leads to almost no sanding inside the pocket. It’s a trade off but I’d rather sand the top real quick than sand the pockets by hand.
Nice video have you thought about integrating the laser into your work? Like mane burning the stars for the flag.
Great idea! I mix the two a little bit but mostly just by making blanks on the cnc then engraving with the laser.
Great idea! I mix the two a little bit but mostly just by making blanks on the cnc then engraving with the laser.
So how much were you able to sell them for?
I’ve sold these locally for $50. Not too shabby!
@@LaserGaragethat’s a great price! Very helpful video! I’m a new sub cuz of this video.
I don’t remember what you sealed it with, but do they hold up to the outdoor elements pretty well?
Thanks a lot John! I sealed this with shellac because it dries fast but I wouldn’t recommend that for outdoors. Usually I use spar urethane in a spray can for outdoor use.