Thanks to you, I ordered a 4 x 2 Shapeoko 5 Pro today. With that being said, once my spoil boards are beyond use, I would like to order your new and improved Spoilboards.
Good job, new subscriber. I have a Sienci Longmill MK2 48x30 and I buy all my bits from Garret at IDC Woodcraft. Good products and good customer service. I like the design and have done something similar, except I ran my slats 90° to yours. I did this because I have a 4th axis mounted to a slat and I can remove one of them and replace it with the 4th axis when necessary. In addition, I opted to use t-nuts instead of screw-in inserts to avoid the possibility of an insert being pulled out. After all, it is MDF. Keep up the good work and I'll keep watching.
Very well put together Brett. If I can convince my wife, I will be buying a Shapeoko Pro 5 2 x 4, soon. I think your idea of selling your waste boards is a good idea. I would buy them if I find the price reasonable. Otherwise, I will probably make my own as needed. But once again, great information and a great video by a craftsman such as yourself
Thanks a lot Fransisco! Good luck with the convincing. The price is the biggest challenge with the wasteboard. Shipping costs, MDF, and 96 threaded inserts add up. Plus factoring in the machine time, packaging etc...they won't be for everybody that's for sure.
This is a GREAT video!!! I assumed they would sell a replacement pack since they pay so much attention to detail. Needless to say I was shocked when I saw they did not. I do not have the 5 Pro, I have the Shapeoko Pro XXL with a cutting area of 33" x 33", but it has the same hybrid wasteboard. I would absolutely pay for a replacement kit. I have seen SEVERAL videos of others willing to do the same......
Thank you very much, I’m glad you found it helpful. I used to own the 4 pro xxl and it was a great cnc. The biggest problem I have is that since I don’t own that machine any longer it’s hard to test everything to make sure it fits properly. Maybe in the future, but in the mean time if you’d like to make your own my file can be easily modified. I’ve seen people make slats on the xxl, just have to do one at a time and diagonal I think to get it to fit. A little slow but doable.
Awesome thanks a lot. I believe C3D used to offer slats for the 4 and pro back in the day. Not sure why they stopped selling them, probably due to the shipping cost/lack of interest.
COULD YOU SEND ME A SVG FILE OF THE WAST BOARD FILE I DO NOT USE CARBIDE CREATE ANY MORE i IUSE VECTEIC VCARVE PRO FOR DESIGN AND CARBIDE MOTION FOR THE G CODE i HAVE A SHAPEOKO5 4X4 THANKS JPETERS
Cool Rick thank you. I’m still working out costs. Shipping unfortunately is going to suck. Looks like we have some solid interest so I’ll be moving forward with a full blown plan. I’ll keep you updated.
Very helpful. Thank you. What was the metal box at Zero right before you started cutting? Can you give us a peak at how you secured your dust collection hose at the top? To answer your question... I don't think I would buy precut waste boards. The shipping costs would likely make it rather prohibitive.
Thank you very much. That is the bit zero. It’s a touch probe that sets your xyz zero points prior to running a job. I thought shipping would be more but I’m surprised it’s actually not that bad. Like $20-30 depending on where you live.
Great video, you explain things very well and have some great ideas! I wonder how many of these you could knock out of a 4x8 sheet of mdf with as little waste as possible (while also doing it in as few jobs as possible on the machine), and what your process would be? I also have the 2x4 Shapeoko 5.
Thank a lot! I love machining MDF, the engravings go quickly and are very crisp. I would do the same process I outlined in the video but if I’d add a hardwood frame around the sign to protect the edges.
Oh shoot sorry, I thought you were commenting on a different video. Well as far as the waste boards are concerned I’ve optimized them the best I can on my 2x4. I can get 42 slats out of a 4x8 sheet of MDF which is enough for 3.5 sets.
Nice video, curious about the surfacing as you can’t cover the entire waste board in back do you just never place material that far back. I have used the area obviously I don’t route in it but let’s me add things to larger pieces. Thinking about guess could flip waste boards and run surface file again. Is that what you did?
I’m able to surface the entire waste board of the Shapeoko 5 Pro. You must use at least a 1 1/4” surfacing bit though. In my case I use a 1 1/2” surfacing bit.
Another good video. I found that being in SC, the humidity in my garage played havoc with my MDF and I switched to OSB which doesn't move so much. It's not as thick as the MDF, but it doesn't move with the humidity. Your thoughts?
I’ve heard a little of that issue before. Maybe sealing the mdf slats with shellac before and after surfacing will help to keep them from sucking up moisture?
How about making the slats a bit wider and undercut rabbits to expose only the channel part of the aluminum and 'sandwich' the tracks to offset some of the force pulling up from the clamps?
It would definitely work but for me it seems like that would only complicate the design and add time. There are no concerns about clamping forces and the tracks. The tracks are screwed down to the frame of the machine. Not going anywhere, anytime.
I did this exact thing. Hang over the boards into the track a little and leave the troughs only for the bolts to have the room. I ALSO, because I was doing this, was able limit the raised size to the actual cutting area. this way it can all be surfaced. Your method (though I appreciate it) has troubles when you surface the whole board in place you have a raised (original area on the sides and back) that cannot be reached with the bit. So it creates problems with pieces that are larger than your cut area. I really like this method of mine so far. Also It's super easy to see at a glance what my cutting area size is. Another thing I did was attache a Neje20Watt (true 20 optical) to the side of my head (with the provided bolt holes on the left side of the router clamp. This lets me lay out a grid (just run the file) of lines that are literally 20mm apart and marked at each 100. This makes it so easy to lay boards down repeatedly and exactly where I want it. It also helps knowing exactly that 50Y80X is exactly here, etc. (at the front corner of my workpiece where I placed it on the grid). When I resurface, I just run the laser file again to re-burn the grid. I posted this on the Facebook page but not very many people commented or showed interest. (Btw- mine is a ProXL).
Very cool! I like the laser grid idea. PS- I’m able to surface the entire area of the wasteboard using the method I described in the video. You must use at least a 1 1/4” surfacing but. I love the 1 1/2” version from IDC Woodcraft.
@@LaserGarage, Ah, the V5 must be very very different. I get probably 4 inches or more past the center of the bit that is further back with their boards. also the back screw is way back there so unless I want to settle with two screws only for each slat (middle and front), there's no way to flatten the entire waste area -- unless I had a 7 inch or so flattening bit. It's possible that the cutting area being so far from the back edge of the slats were improved so so much on the 5 (from the iterations of mine, the pro XL). I'm interested, what is your center point cutting area (like if you had a vBit in). Mine is 31" x 17.5" (pretty close). I think your sides are covered as well, where my PRo Xl has a about 2/3 of a slat that isn't reachable (left and rightmost slats). I'd probably need that same 7" surfacing bit (or larger) to reach that as well. Also I did it my method because I also to extend out the front of the slats a little to take advantage of my tool comes out a little more in the front past their boards as well. anyways, your's is a great video, well done!
Slats are longer and mounting holes are in different locations. There’s another wasteboard version on cutrocket.com for the 4x4 I believe. Check that out and you could modify it to match my design.
Thanks a lot! Search on cutrocket.com I believe they have some options. Or download my design and modify it to your machine. If I remember right the pro xxl slats are like 33 inches long. I think you can use the pro Xxl to cut its own slats out but you have to run the part diagonal to fit on the bed.
Just got the shapeoko 5 pro 4x4. Scared to unbox and start lol. Thanks for the videos!! Recent retired 60 year old. If I can do it anyone can…..😂😊
You can do it!
Yes , I would be very interested in the spoil board kits …. Thanks for sharing
Cool! Thanks for sharing, I’ll keep you updated on production.
Thanks to you, I ordered a 4 x 2 Shapeoko 5 Pro today. With that being said, once my spoil boards are beyond use, I would like to order your new and improved Spoilboards.
Glad I could help! Keep an eye on the channel. I’ll have some news on the wasteboard production soon. It’s going to be exciting!
I'd be interested as well.. but would need it for a 5 pro 4x4 - great video
Thanks a lot! Sorry though, I’m not currently offering slats for the 4x4. I don’t have that machine so no ability to test them. Maybe in the future.
Good job, new subscriber. I have a Sienci Longmill MK2 48x30 and I buy all my bits from Garret at IDC Woodcraft. Good products and good customer service.
I like the design and have done something similar, except I ran my slats 90° to yours. I did this because I have a 4th axis mounted to a slat and I can remove one of them and replace it with the 4th axis when necessary. In addition, I opted to use t-nuts instead of screw-in inserts to avoid the possibility of an insert being pulled out. After all, it is MDF. Keep up the good work and I'll keep watching.
Thanks a lot Ron. Those are some really great ideas. Keep up the good work!
Definitely interested in a 4x4 board. Happy to help test with you!
Man I wish I could make the 4x4’s but only 2x4s at this time. You can easily take my file and modify it though to fit the 4x4.
Thanks for the video...Just ordered the 5Pro 4x4...Will certainly get your file and mod it to work for the 4x4...!!!
Enjoy! That sounds like a good plan!
I too would be interested in spoil board kits. Great video, thanks for sharing...
Thank you! They are currently available for purchase, the link is in the video description.
Great video, I would be interested also in the spoil board kits. Thanks
Coming soon!
I never use the clamps, I just screw down the board.😅😁Great machine,
Also how come you use such big nodes , it seems unnecessary. Looks great though.
That’s a good option as well!
I’m not sure what you mean by this.
Great idea of selling the waste boards... I will be interested also..
Thanks a lot Rick. I’ll keep you updated of course. Be sure to keep an eye on the channel and instagram @bretts_laser_garage
Very well put together Brett. If I can convince my wife, I will be buying a Shapeoko Pro 5 2 x 4, soon. I think your idea of selling your waste boards is a good idea. I would buy them if I find the price reasonable. Otherwise, I will probably make my own as needed. But once again, great information and a great video by a craftsman such as yourself
Thanks a lot Fransisco! Good luck with the convincing. The price is the biggest challenge with the wasteboard. Shipping costs, MDF, and 96 threaded inserts add up. Plus factoring in the machine time, packaging etc...they won't be for everybody that's for sure.
This is a GREAT video!!! I assumed they would sell a replacement pack since they pay so much attention to detail. Needless to say I was shocked when I saw they did not. I do not have the 5 Pro, I have the Shapeoko Pro XXL with a cutting area of 33" x 33", but it has the same hybrid wasteboard. I would absolutely pay for a replacement kit. I have seen SEVERAL videos of others willing to do the same......
Thank you very much, I’m glad you found it helpful. I used to own the 4 pro xxl and it was a great cnc. The biggest problem I have is that since I don’t own that machine any longer it’s hard to test everything to make sure it fits properly. Maybe in the future, but in the mean time if you’d like to make your own my file can be easily modified. I’ve seen people make slats on the xxl, just have to do one at a time and diagonal I think to get it to fit. A little slow but doable.
Definitely interested in spoil board kits. Like the 1" lightweight mdf you mentioned in C3D post. Surprised C3D doesn't offer this.
Awesome thanks a lot. I believe C3D used to offer slats for the 4 and pro back in the day. Not sure why they stopped selling them, probably due to the shipping cost/lack of interest.
COULD YOU SEND ME A SVG FILE OF THE WAST BOARD FILE I DO NOT USE CARBIDE CREATE ANY MORE i IUSE VECTEIC VCARVE PRO FOR DESIGN AND CARBIDE MOTION FOR THE G CODE i HAVE A SHAPEOKO5 4X4 THANKS JPETERS
@resorter66 send me an email. Brett@arcshop.us
Awesome improvement! Great job!
Thank you very much!
Ill be interested in the 1 inch waste board kit (With pre-drilled holes like yours as soon as I get my Shapeoko 5 pro
Regards, Rick
Cool Rick thank you. I’m still working out costs. Shipping unfortunately is going to suck. Looks like we have some solid interest so I’ll be moving forward with a full blown plan. I’ll keep you updated.
Very helpful. Thank you. What was the metal box at Zero right before you started cutting?
Can you give us a peak at how you secured your dust collection hose at the top?
To answer your question... I don't think I would buy precut waste boards. The shipping costs would likely make it rather prohibitive.
Thank you very much. That is the bit zero. It’s a touch probe that sets your xyz zero points prior to running a job.
I thought shipping would be more but I’m surprised it’s actually not that bad. Like $20-30 depending on where you live.
Great video, you explain things very well and have some great ideas! I wonder how many of these you could knock out of a 4x8 sheet of mdf with as little waste as possible (while also doing it in as few jobs as possible on the machine), and what your process would be? I also have the 2x4 Shapeoko 5.
Thank a lot! I love machining MDF, the engravings go quickly and are very crisp. I would do the same process I outlined in the video but if I’d add a hardwood frame around the sign to protect the edges.
@@LaserGarage I was referring to the wasteboards in your improved wasteboards specifically
Oh shoot sorry, I thought you were commenting on a different video. Well as far as the waste boards are concerned I’ve optimized them the best I can on my 2x4. I can get 42 slats out of a 4x8 sheet of MDF which is enough for 3.5 sets.
Great Video, tell me about the cart you are using for the base. It looks awsome
Cool thanks a lot. It's a Husky tool chest and I really like it. Check out my Shapeoko review video, I talk more about it.
Nice video, curious about the surfacing as you can’t cover the entire waste board in back do you just never place material that far back. I have used the area obviously I don’t route in it but let’s me add things to larger pieces. Thinking about guess could flip waste boards and run surface file again. Is that what you did?
I’m able to surface the entire waste board of the Shapeoko 5 Pro. You must use at least a 1 1/4” surfacing bit though. In my case I use a 1 1/2” surfacing bit.
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Another good video. I found that being in SC, the humidity in my garage played havoc with my MDF and I switched to OSB which doesn't move so much. It's not as thick as the MDF, but it doesn't move with the humidity. Your thoughts?
I’ve heard a little of that issue before. Maybe sealing the mdf slats with shellac before and after surfacing will help to keep them from sucking up moisture?
How about making the slats a bit wider and undercut rabbits to expose only the channel part of the aluminum and 'sandwich' the tracks to offset some of the force pulling up from the clamps?
It would definitely work but for me it seems like that would only complicate the design and add time. There are no concerns about clamping forces and the tracks. The tracks are screwed down to the frame of the machine. Not going anywhere, anytime.
I did this exact thing. Hang over the boards into the track a little and leave the troughs only for the bolts to have the room. I ALSO, because I was doing this, was able limit the raised size to the actual cutting area. this way it can all be surfaced. Your method (though I appreciate it) has troubles when you surface the whole board in place you have a raised (original area on the sides and back) that cannot be reached with the bit. So it creates problems with pieces that are larger than your cut area. I really like this method of mine so far. Also It's super easy to see at a glance what my cutting area size is.
Another thing I did was attache a Neje20Watt (true 20 optical) to the side of my head (with the provided bolt holes on the left side of the router clamp. This lets me lay out a grid (just run the file) of lines that are literally 20mm apart and marked at each 100. This makes it so easy to lay boards down repeatedly and exactly where I want it. It also helps knowing exactly that 50Y80X is exactly here, etc. (at the front corner of my workpiece where I placed it on the grid). When I resurface, I just run the laser file again to re-burn the grid.
I posted this on the Facebook page but not very many people commented or showed interest.
(Btw- mine is a ProXL).
You have to also consider the under sides of the slats (if you make them wider), to keep the undersides as 3" because that's a given trough.
Very cool! I like the laser grid idea. PS- I’m able to surface the entire area of the wasteboard using the method I described in the video. You must use at least a 1 1/4” surfacing but. I love the 1 1/2” version from IDC Woodcraft.
@@LaserGarage, Ah, the V5 must be very very different. I get probably 4 inches or more past the center of the bit that is further back with their boards. also the back screw is way back there so unless I want to settle with two screws only for each slat (middle and front), there's no way to flatten the entire waste area -- unless I had a 7 inch or so flattening bit. It's possible that the cutting area being so far from the back edge of the slats were improved so so much on the 5 (from the iterations of mine, the pro XL). I'm interested, what is your center point cutting area (like if you had a vBit in). Mine is 31" x 17.5" (pretty close).
I think your sides are covered as well, where my PRo Xl has a about 2/3 of a slat that isn't reachable (left and rightmost slats). I'd probably need that same 7" surfacing bit (or larger) to reach that as well.
Also I did it my method because I also to extend out the front of the slats a little to take advantage of my tool comes out a little more in the front past their boards as well.
anyways, your's is a great video, well done!
I can't recall, does the 4x4 just double the slat length or is there more to it? I'd like to use your design but I have a 4x4.
Slats are longer and mounting holes are in different locations. There’s another wasteboard version on cutrocket.com for the 4x4 I believe. Check that out and you could modify it to match my design.
I would be interested in buying the 1inch thick waste board for my Shapeoko 5 Pro 2 x4
Cool! They are currently for sale on my Etsy page. Link is in the video description.
I have a shapeoko 4xl fo you have file for surfacing
Sorry I don’t have Shapeoko 4 files but I may create some. Interested in testing? Shoot em an email brett@arcshop.us
What software do you use?
Carbide Create
Hey enjoy watching this video. Is there anyone who can make this spoil Board for a Shapeoko Pro XXL?
Thanks a lot! Search on cutrocket.com I believe they have some options. Or download my design and modify it to your machine. If I remember right the pro xxl slats are like 33 inches long. I think you can use the pro Xxl to cut its own slats out but you have to run the part diagonal to fit on the bed.
What’s up
Thanks for watching!
Just got the shapeoko 5 pro 4x4. Scared to unbox and start lol. Thanks for the videos!! Recent retired 60 year old. If I can do it anyone can…..😂😊
You're welcome, have fun and keep learning!