If This Goes Wrong I'm Destined to FAIL - Sawmill Shed Build
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Today I finally make the tough decision on what sawmill shed design I"m going to go with. I'll be talking about why I chose the sawmill layout I did and how the new sawmill shed design will help me achieve more efficient sawmill operation. I'll talk about how I will frame the shed and the types of wood materials I"ll use to build it.
#sawmills #shedbuild #framing #construction #roofingcontractor #building #buildings #buildingconstruction #foundation #bandsawmill #sawmillbusiness #homestead
Good luck! It's an ambitious project and I look forward to watching it!
Good luck, I will be watching and cheering you on 😊
great plans Sandy look forward to seeing the build. take care
This will be a super fun project to watch. Wish I lived close enough to pitch in and help out with some of the labor.
Awesome plans , can't wait to watch the build !!!!! 😊🙏👍❤️
You've been in need of this upgrade for a while. If it were my shed I would use a central beam or heavy cross ties. Here's why: You need a central track and trussell for turning your logs. I know, right now you are young and strong and can turn and move logs by hand but you need to keep an eye on your future self and avoid hurting your back down the road. Good luck! I'll keep watchin'
That’s a fantastic idea. In the next year or so I will be doing my mill shed. And being older already it’s cumbersome. Even with a tractor. I see this working much better.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼 👍🏼…………………………………………………………………. Good for you! You need an upgrade, I’m glad you are going to make it happen.
Good luck Sandy, and I can’t not wait to see the project start
new sawmill shed should be perfect for what you need ! looking forward to the build
Best of luck on your upcoming build.
I work on the oil patch so I got some old rig mats that rig sit on for cheap and that’s what I got my sawmill sitting on and I built my mill shed around them
love it buddy! Good luck!
Sandy, your new Sawmill shed looks great, good luck with the build.
Lots of work man.
Sounds like a great build Sandy.
Thanks Russell. Great to have ya along for the project
Beside mill wood storage, you need a place to go to inclosed storage. place you are able to heat get out of the weather , have a snack make fresh sludge. In Alberta some shops are build using treat posts. Sink them deep use to support cross beams support roof trusses. Kept dry they will last long time. Might help save money time extra work. Best of luck
Have Sandy- looks like you have a good working plan laid out. Yeah, the price of concrete is astronomical nowadays. Wishing you the very best with your building project. God bless
Wanted to let you know, I live in South Carolina, and I just finished laying down a 8x36ft saw mill pad and put a sawmill up on it from watching your videos. I like you am doing it all by hand. Loaded in 5 pallets of 80lb bags of cement by hand to the site. It's laid out and I start my first milling this week. Thanks to you. I also agree prices are horrendous. We pay $4.36 US for cement on average and I plan to build a shed around the mill with the wood I mill cause I'm not paying these prices. I'll build my own trusses too.
I'm leaning towards 12' x 30' for my sawmill shelter with my shed I built already 10x15 on the one end for sawmill, and chainsaw stuff and storage....mine won't be till next spring I'll spend this winter Harvesting the trees and milling them.
I'm with ya there actually. I've been throwing area dimension ideas a lot in my head lately. I definitely want 30' long but the width has been up in the air even right until now
you won't regret building it big, you will love the amount of room under there. Can't wait to see you build it. And yeah, we mill our own lumber but it is crazy how much can be spent on all the rest like footings, roofing ect.
Hey there Justin. Bigger the building the better for sure. The main thing that starts to stop me is the big spans and the timber size. LVL's or even steel beams would be nice to have only 4 posts
Evening Sandy, You plan looks great, open concept I like too, Two Brothers Outdoors used tarps to keep snow out of the mill area also and rolled them up when cutting logs for a long time. Tarps are cheap! We don't get a lot of snow here but do get ice at times. Hope you have a good power mixer for the Quick Crete doing it by hoe and wheel barrel is the pits. Cheers!
Looks great on paper- but plan to be spontaneous! Be flexible as you build so when a brilliant idea presents itself, you’ll be able to execute it easily.
Keep up the good work!
Jeff
Hi Sandy. For the concrete you may save some by getting a load of cement gravel and using the 80 lb. portland cement powder at a 1-4 mix. Any extra gravel could be spread where you walk around mill.
Great point Lorne. Thank you
Hey Sandy!!!
Before you commit to your plan - check out the Bissel Maple Farm (I might have their name off)
They are running an HM 136 Max on trailer and they built a very nice shed including a covered log deck which is also self loading (to the mill)
Your old log deck set up was similar in basic concept, they have taken it to the next level,
From the operator’s position, slab wood goes off to the left and lumber straight out the end to the stack which is then moved with the tractor to wherever it will stay.
For you, the covered log deck would be huge for winter milling.
I wanted to comment on the previous video but I was viewing that from a “restricted” browser and that prevented commenting.
Good luck with whatever you settle on - long overdue as noted by others !!
If you watch Bigalow woodcraft. He built a drive through shed with doors that you can close. He did this to protect the head. You could merge this idea with yours and have a really nice setup.
Thanks for that, I'll check it out
It all sounds great, Sandy. In locating the new building, leave enough room so you can run your tractor-mounted snow blower thru to clear the snow. Do you still have that power inverter, or was that just something loaned to you to try out? If it's yours, I'd use it to operate your sludge maker at the mill, and of course... figure a way to install a wood heater. Even with it open, if you have a fire going to get warm next to, you'll want to saw more lumber when it's cold out.
Hey there Carl! Good point about snow clearing. I certainly have a lot of that going on in the winter time at the
Mill. I do still have the Bluetti. Good idea getting that hooked back up there. Good way for me to keep the sludge flowing for sure
Looking forward to watching the build. Going to be a big ol' building. As for hurricane clips, down here on the gulf coast, we use them as a routine thing and a matter of law in some jurisdictions. Good vid. Thanks.
I can imagine you get quite the winds down that way with the hurricanes. I'm pretty shelter in the woods here but we do get some storms from time to time that whips things up
Ive seen a "block n tackle" gambrel winch type set up to maneuver large logs onto the mill with ease.
Those are handy I bet! I'm not sure I would need it in my case just because I have the tractor. I figured the red oak at around 30" which the tractor lifted recently is about as big as I"ll ever mill so I should be good there
The log loading opening in out sawmill shed is about 19 feet and we used a 9x14 white pine beam to support the rafters and have had no problem with snow load on the shed style roof. One thing I would do differently is all the posts are full dimension which doubled at least the cost for concrete to post connectors. Good luck and I look forward to seeing it progress!
Thank you for sharing that about the beam. The beam is the biggest challenge for sure with the snow load. Good to hear first-hand from you the sizing that's worked.
@@sawingwithsandy It was probably overkill btw 😁
It is a great idea I did 40 x 14 and in one corner I put my wood stove barrel to burn the cut offs in winters, you need to come one day, and check the mess I made, need your opinion on some projects I am planing to start. Stay safe my friend
Hello Sandy. If the 10' area is used for slab wood, I think you have defined the cuttable log length. "You might be floored...." speaking of wood, lol. You have your own generator, if it is running well, so the cement mixer could be set next to each hole eliminating transportation of the concrete. If you suspend the sonotubes with rebar inside, the hole you dig will be the footing tamping the bottom to be flat and solid, saving money on the big foot footing. 1x3 or 1x4 should do the job of holding the sonotube in place using screws that can be removed after the concrete is cured. I saw an easy way of bending an 'L' in the rebar. In a stump, drill a hole just large enough for the rebar to fit at a depth for the length of the bend you need, if you use it, and use a long pipe to bend it. You will not go wrong, nor will you fail as this is not the first building you have raised. Have good days!
Liking the plan! Have a great weekend.
Thank you! You get any snow this past week at all? I heard flurries north of me
@@sawingwithsandy no flurries here, +27°C here this weekend!
Sure was a warm one here too!
Blessings and prayers to you Sandy. Watching from Texas and certainly looking forward to seeing you succeed in your project. Lifting you before the Lord for safety, strength, health, discernment and success in Jesus's Name. ☝🙏🙌💪👊
Hi sandy phil here. Looks like a great plan on the build for the sawmill. The one thing that might save you a few bucks is to make your own base for the tubes; I just make mine out of 2x6 for the box frame a scrap of plywood for the top then cut a hole for the tube to fit in ,a couple of nails and you are off to the races Good luck; we will be watching. All the best Phil M
Hey Phil! Hope you're having a great weekend .I know what you mean by saving a few bucks making the forms. I've done this as well before. Only downside I've found with it is having to do separate pours. One for the footing and one for the concrete column. Main reason I'm thinking the Bigfoot on the bottom is so I can do the pour in one day
You can check Sandy if you can get a pull behind trailer for cement carry's 1/2 yard. you really don't need the sono tubes just drill the holes add cement. Other option though is take your support posts add 4 feet to them then that 4 feet burn it with flame is an older way of doing thing to stop the wood from rotten. or you can creosol them.
Sandy, Add an overhang to each side so the roof run off splash doesn't all splash inside
My saw mill shed is 16X20 I cut 2X6s and made W truss with a 2 ft overhang. Make the trusses where you could use all your power tools and trailer them out there. My roof is on 16 inch center 4/12 pitch even with the 45th pare northern Michigan.
ll
Thanks Ray! I appreciate hearing about your build
Hi Sandy, I Don't understand the need for 20" holes w/ big foots for a shed. 12" holes 4 feet deep with a short Sonotube about a foot above grade. The bigger issue will be shear. Therefore, I'm inclined to agree with those that say bury your own 6x6 posts (as deep as you can practically; 5 or 6 feet). Simply apply a thick layer of tar to your posts to at least a foot above grade.
Sandy, I understand your reasonings for the posts to sit on top of he sonotube footings but that connection provides *no* racking resistance for the structure so will need a lot of diagonal bracing it. Knee braces at the rafters to the posts may not be enough.
If the posts are set into the concrete in the sonotubes deeply they will provide the racking resistance needed but may have to upsize the sonotubes.
With the tops of the sonotubes above the soil level, the posts won't be exposed to the prime wood rot environment and they'll be under the eaves so an even drier environment and will last a very long time.
Nice setup, I think it will work well for you. A couple thoughts …
Setting posts on concrete will quickly rot the bottom out of the posts. Consider putting something like Simpson wood-to-concrete bases under the posts. Tapcon them to the concrete and screw the post into the cradle. Doing this will extend your post life by orders of magnitude.
Also consider adding hurricane ties on the rafter connection to the ridge board. Probably a few feet from the gable ends, and one or two down the length of the ridge board. It is cheap insurance.
Thanks for that. I'll likely use the saddles that have the 1" air gap from the concrete. I've also used shingles before but when building with posts just laying on blocks to keep the space between wood and concrete.
@@sawingwithsandy
Cool … as long as moisture can evaporate away from the wood over relatively short periods of “wet time” you should be good. Happy building!
Yes everything to build with is expensive.
I been building a 16 foot by 40 foot sawmill shed and been milling all the lumber and beam's
Sandy, if I heard correctly, you mentioned having a roof span of 20 feet? With that span, and your regional snow loads, I would seriously consider 2x8 roof rafters. Even employing collar ties, there is a very real possibility of bowing of the rafters while under load.
Hey Bob. Yeah 2x8 would be stronger for sure. I figure with 16” o.c for rafter spacing I should still be good for support with the rafters. Although 2x8 would be better I agree
I would definitely go 2x8 if you can for that span. My two cents worth.
@@sawingwithsandy I also live in an area where we measure snow in feet, not inches. With the pitch you are planning and a metal roof you are fine with 2x6 rafters, Many folk who live where a 4" of snow shuts everything down, do not understand the snow slides off a metal roof so there is never a full winter load of snow on a roof. Yes it can build up and if there is a threat it is time for a snow rake. Besides, with all the climate change dire predictions, I wonder if you will even have time to build the shed before humans vanish. At 82, I have definitely seen a change from a very young age to now but, hey, we all have to go sometime so live life as though it is your last day on Earth, some day it will be.
Can’t wait to see your build as I am just about to build a shed/shop similar in style but smaller 16x20, again it’s great to learn from your experience, your enthusiasm and sawing videos got us to buy our first sawmill (hm130max😉) we’re thrilled and happy we did !
Hi Christian! Glad you've come along for the build and be sure to keep me updated how your build goes
Best to you. Any advice I could give is always available to share. As you probably know, with over 50 years in the construction industry, learned a few things from some tremendous people over the years. You will do great I'm sure. Be safe, have fun, we'll keep watching and supporting you from the states.
I appreciate all your support!
On the long beam, we built ours and sandwiched a flat piece of steel in between 2x boards. We drilled and bolted it all together. It's been 30 plus yrs and hasn't moved a bit. You might consider that in your build. Just make sure you use wind bracing on every post that you can. Those are very important for structural integrity of your shed. My dad was a master carpenter and taught me this. Good luck buddy!
Thanks Timothy!
Good luck you do a good job with your videos.
Thanks Russ. I appreciate hearing that
Sandy I am in the process of designing an equipment shed and will do a peaked roof like you. I am planning on building it right on the ground like you have done many times. Why the change? Great watching your vids as always.
Hey Luke! Main reason why I'm putting the concrete footings this time around is I won't have a floor to help hold the posts in place like I did with my original sawmill shed. Keep me updated on your build. Thanks for coming along for the video
I think I will learn a bunch from you, this should be good.
I always am happy to see you along for each video! Thanks again for your support
@@sawingwithsandy You are welcome a brief escape from the rat race :)
Good great looking forward to seeing your build, don't forget to overhangs to keep water out
Thanks Jean Marc! Will be a fun project
With your snow load, I'd suggest using 2 X 8 or 2 X 10".for rafters.
Thank you 😊
While you’re at it (lol) close in the lumber shed with doors and make it into a sun kiln.
cool plans sandy. im interested to see how the off grid concrete goes.
I'm a bit scared of the work there to be honest lol
Hi Sandy I live on the cost in nova scotia and I build all my structures on either cut offs from the wharf, pilings or used telephone poles. I bury them 4 to 6 feet on the ground and have never had an issue with the moving. It’s definitely a cheaper alternative than concrete. Just a thought if you want to keep the cost down. Looking forward to watching your build
Cheers Ryan.
Thanks Ryan. Good to hear that it's worked well for you. Hard part for me is getting the telephone poles but then again I haven't looked too hard but I may do that now that I've heard that it's worked well for you. Thanks again for the help
That sounds like a solid plan, abd I hope you have access to a concrete mixer from a friend or rental place.
Hey Wallace! Unfortunately I don’t have a mixer but I’m hoping I can rent one to keep things moving forward
@@sawingwithsandy That would probably be cheaper than me bringing up there in the truck from down around Houston TX.
👍great video, Sandy
That should be a great project 😎
Thanks Paul! Will be a fun project
@@sawingwithsandy 😎
Can't wait brother!!!
Thanks Andy!
Good plan sandy it will be great but you have made me jelous we pay £6 a 25kg bag in the uk for cement thats nearly 11 Canadian dollars and your engineered trusses sound like it would be worth you buying them and shipping them to me 🤣 If you are mixing the concrete by hand have you got a 3 point mixer I found one on the farm when we arrived and it's so much better than the stand alone ones It's easy to load as you can drop it down, easy to pour when you lift it up, mixes much more in one go and you can back it up to the hole so no barrowing they are really cheap here second hand as well so have a look at one if you don't already have one
Power poles in good condition here can go for little over $100.00
I like the idea so far. Frost is a pain . I believe frost line is near 8ft for me haha.
haha can imagine it gets real cold in your area way north. Frost is a pain for sure
I would consider adding a diagonal brace between the collar tie and the ceiling joist making your rafters a modified truss. All in two by six material. Also remember your flitches will be as long as your logs and off beard lumber for moving with the forks.
Do you have an engineer friend to give you beam calcs for the 30' span? You might consider building a doubled 2x truss with a center core of 2x webbing. Would be six inches thick and much lighter to handle I would think.
Hey there Geoffrey. Yeah good point about the flitches and their lengths. The beams I've talked to an engineer about but I won't be doing a 30' beam as the size of the beam was going to be too big for me to handle so I"ll be doing a 20' and a 10' beam sitting on top of posts. The 20' beam could even be a bit shorter depending on how things go when I get down to building.
@@sawingwithsandy I think I'd still consider a fabricated truss 6" thick for the 20'. The truss would be shorter in height i think.
Good morning Sandy yes that is about the way I was trying to explain but i still have a few suggestion for your beam don't do one big beam cut yourself some 2x10 and put 4 or 5 of thick all nailed to each other and GLUED also had a piece of plywood between each row that at least 4 time stronger than a one piece beam because of all the grain not being the same. And for the rest of the roof { not mandatory } have somebody you might know " engineer " { the design } of how to make one truss and you can but all of them together yourself with your own wood specially since you are putting the support wall at 12 feet high that will bring your center at 40 to 50 inches higher depends if you putting a 4/12 or 5/12 pitch so your center will be 16 to 17 feet high. Another thing to think about you could put your outside wall at 10 instead of 12 because that wind and snow will blow right straight across at 12 you will have snow bank pilling up inside like i said it is somethings to think about i will be watching you do this project have a great day
Busy,busy,busy...! ☺
I like when you have a big build going on! I don't have a roof over my sawmill and am very curious how this design would work for my setup. Glad you're going with concrete pillars. I know it'll be a pain to mix clear out there but I think you could strap a couple of 55 gallon drums of water to a pallet and use the forks to tractor it there. Plus, you have the Bluetti to power a little water pump. Could that also run a cement mixer off of that? I saw in a comment that you plan to build up a beam using multiple materials including plywood. I think with that and the fancy goop you always use would make for a very strong beam. Exciting stuff Sandy!😃
Great idea Jill! Yeah water will be a headache to get out to the woods but the barrels are a great idea. I'm thinking you're right about the BLuetti and the concrete mixer. I think it would be enough power for that for sure.
@@sawingwithsandy We went with an RPS solar powered pumping system for our new well with an 1800 gallon holding tank. You can imagine with snow and cloudy days, you don't always get the power you need to pump. But we bought a converter so you can hook on to a generator to run the system. We can run that pump at around 15 amps for 45 minutes on our Bluetti. Also have a Honda gas generator that'll run it for about 3 hours on a tank of fuel. Can never have too many power options.
I was about to make a similar comment. I have an ibc tank and I made a manifold with 2 hose bibs and a filter on it. That allows me to keep the pump recirculating water with one hose so the pump doesn’t cavitate while I am using the other hose only some of the time for making concrete. Works like a dream anywhere on the property. If you want to get fancy, you can even collect the rainwater from the old shed and you won’t have to haul it. I have a gas pump from harbor freight, but with the bluetti you could get a cheaper electric pump.
@@Ournorthwoodslife That sounds like a great setup! If there's a will, there's a way!
Look into frost post. They are precast concrete post that you dig a hole and bury them. they have the flared bottom built in. I used them for my farmers porch in New Hampshire. They were about $100 each US.
Hey Glenn. Thanks for sharing that. I've never heard of them. I"m guessing they'd have to be really heavy as I'd need to get them down to at least 4'. Would save a bunch of time though. Thanks again
I've seen these on a solo Bardo channel. They have a very beefy post bracket built in. Big time saver but pricey and need couple guys to handle.
Hi Sandy,
I used the precast concrete posts for a build a couple years ago and while they seem to be working well I would not use them again. It was a lot of time/labor sprinkling a gravel here and there to get them in the exact location, elevation and plumb.
This is not an easy task when you have (for me) a 6 ft frost depth and are trying to manipulate a very heavy concrete post. It is a 2 person job for sure along with an excavator or backhoe and it took way more time than it would to dig, set and pour sonotubes. You also need to consider how big the hole has to be if you are going to compact the fill around it.
I had a similar size/length beam span (about 18ft) on my build and used three 2"x12"s sandwiched with plywood and glued/screwed together for a thickness of 5 1/2" to match up with the 6"x6" (nominal) posts. The beams have worked well for me but I have a much steeper roof (8/12) than you are planning. I like at least a 5/12 pitch (metal) roof to make sure the snow will clear on its own.
I think your dimensions look good but I would make sure you have plenty of overhang on the sides to help keep the area clear of snow. I have a 2' overhang and I'm glad I didn't go less than that. Yes it's more work and more materials but it really does make a big difference for me being in an area that frequently gets over 10 ft of snow in the winter.
Good luck with your build. It will be fun to follow along with you. And hopefully fun for you too! 🙂
All the best,
Sparky In Maine
would a concrete floor pit for the mill work?
What size beam you thinking for the 20' opening for the sawmill log deck? How do plan on milling one that long with your sawmill?
I'm probably going to be in the 8"x10" range but I'll likely look to build up a beam with multiple layers including plywood for strength. Best scenario would be LVL I'd imagine. I can push the log back and forth on the sawmill to sawmill longer logs than the sawmill deck
Why don't you make your own trusses, I lifted mine into place with a homemade boom attached to my pallet forks.
Hard easier than rafters.
Hi Sandy Log Father made a video for you to watch ! Enjoy
Clear more trees than you think you should, you will need plenty of maneuvering space !
Did you mention the width of the building?
It looks well thought out and safe, over the years though Sandy the biggest problem I have seen you have are the off cuts, putting them in side with you at the point you showed, why not have them the same type place but outside the same area, but no I don't have a miracle cure but what if you went mad and the icu topes connect some together by welding and strengthen them with wood so the one in the middle will have no ends and the other two would have just one end each removed so it would appear to be one really long tope, make two and then you can remove them from the mill area and deal with them on down days the bits you cut of the topes you would put across the joining sections for even more strength, also by strengthening the floor of the topes on the inside you can lift from the middle with the forks and get them just out of the way, even just two together would help you if just outside where you were going to put them you built a set up like you did for your logs, stack cut them in half and straight into the topes, I know it seems a hole load of work, but no matter what you do with the off cuts will be anyway, hope this gives you ideas to change and use maybe another type you could build yourself but go for strength. what ever you build will be practical, can't help thinking the shed you are sitting in looks about perfect, and I love the roof type you already have.
Hey Jimmy! I think outside would be best for sure. In the winter I may like stacking them under cover if it's calling for snow but outisde would be best to maximize space inside for sure. I appreciate your ideas you shared!
Not necessarily an approved method.
.
But sandwich a plate of steel, between 2 beams for additional strength.
And another one on each side, with bolts holding it all together.
.
Ive seen it done a few times for massive hay loft storage.
Or big clear spands.
.
As i said, not necessarily an approved method.
.
Are mill cuts 26 foot, and is a big reason why we never have covered the hole thing as spanning that distance basically requires the use of steel.
As well as needing the vertical clearance for excavators to place logs on the mill.
I like your pla
Thanks Ken!
What's the rafter spacing?
Did you say and I mssed it?
I haven't 100% decided yet as I have to look at the span charts again but I think I'm good with 16" o.c.
@@sawingwithsandy I think that is a good choice considering you get considerable snow!
Better safe than sorry later!
I'm with ya there. I tend to overbuild wherever I can just to be safe
@@sawingwithsandy Might cost a little more up front, but peace of mind is worth it.
Another "Chop Shop"!
I do like the log design of the chop shop for sure. This one will resemble the shop I"m sitting in in the video I figure the most
Have you concider having your log deck on the other side of your sawmill
Good question. I'm currently running the log deck opposite to what I normally would run it but don't like it as much as when the logs roll onto the log deck and are able to be stopped by the log stops on the sawmill
@@sawingwithsandy it give you more room to stack your wood close to the sawmill then move it with your tractor to dry
You'd be surprised how much movement there is with posts mechanically attached to concrete piers. I personally set my posts down into the concrete. Not saying you shouldn't, just I didn't.
For sure. Lots of bracing will be important for my build. Main reason I don’t sink posts in the ground is to avoid buying pressure treated lumber which is really expensive where I am
@@sawingwithsandy right on expensive
Better hustle, that white stuff is on the way.
Funny you mention that as I just looked at the weather and they're calling for chance of flurries tonight! YIKES
Can't hit the thumbs-up button it's missing. just saying
10 ft for slab wood ??? and you are sawing up to 20ft boards and beam or post ,???
maybe it just me but long slab not going to fit easily without a lot of fanageling
Hope the earthquake didn't get you. Be safe.