It should be mentioned that you don't want to use any kind of abrasive on the engine deck, even fine-grit sandpaper, if you're not also going to remove and disassemble the engine so it can be cleaned out afterwards. If abrasive dust is left in the cylinders, it can scratch their walls, and if it gets into the oil passages, it can get into bearing surfaces and scratch them too. Abrasive dust in the coolant might not be as bad, but chunks that are large enough will clog coolant passages, some of which are pretty narrow in the radiator and heater core.
Great tip. I don't think I would use sandpaper on an engine that is staying in the vehicle or only being partially disassembled. I would only do this when the block is going to be fully disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt. Otherwise, you will end up with metal and silica particles in your engine, no matter how careful you are.
Thanks for showing the CORRECT way to clean up the head/block surfaces. People who use those roloc disc's are just asking to do the job twice. although I would start with such a course grit on aluminum. I usually start with 600 and work up to 1000. i dont remember ever having to go lower then 600 to start and if you do need something lower then 600 you probably need to have that part machined. I also use a little water because I like to use wet sand paper.
@@jaredmayer3960 1/4 glass will barley bow if hung over the edge of a table. If you have it over a table that is relatively flat. You should be good. Just make sure it is VERY supported before you start putting pressure on it.
On the cologne v6 2.8 make sure your choke works it needs a heater tube and everything working also a filter before the fuel pump and the one is ok on the carb otherwise you can plug your mechanical fuel pump.
cool tip I'm cleaning up a set of small block ford heads in the garage got it nice and shiny like this video but still see some of the "black" marks same as you have on yours should i keep sanding to remove those marks? very helpful video
Or have the machine shop do it. They most likely have to correct a warp anyway. Better to pay the $100-$300 for cheap insurance rather than doing it again or worse, replacing the head and/or short/long block, used, or new crate engine
That is true. However, the people at the machine shop or at the engine remanufacturing company are also humans doing the same jobs. If you are not confident in your skills or methods, you can get peace of mind by letting someone else do it. However, with experience, training and tools, you can gain confidence in your own skills and you might even do a better job and be more meticulous than the machine shop!
Good point. I would not recommend doing this without a very thorough cleaning. We usually do this cleaning upon first removal of the cylinder head before we check it for warpage and cracks. The head will be broken down, new guides and/or seats installed, and possibly resurfaced before a VERY THOROUGH cleaning. No matter how you clean your gasket surfaces, you should clean the components well before putting them back together.
Years ago I attempted to remove an old head gasket from a 1984 Toyota block. After removing the head, the gasket remained on the block, and was rock hard like it was welded to the surface even after multiple attempts to soak it with head gasket remover and scrap it off. It visibly looked like perfectly smooth brown glass. I worked at it for days and only made any progress after testing the edge to see if it could be removed at all with a metal scraper. I ended up selling the vehicle as junk just to get it out of my sight. I am now getting ready to tackle a head gasket job on my 1986 Jeep Cherokee with a 2.8 V6 and don't want to have the same issue as with the Toyota. After watching your video showing you using a flat sanding pad to remove the gasket. I have several questions. #1 When doing the block surface, doesn't the abrasive material from the sand paper get into the oil, water and cylinder openings? What materials should you use to stuff in the holes? It seem like even the smallest particle of grit from the sandpaper could scar the cylinder walls. A head can be flushed out, but the block is different since it can't be turned upside down and blown out or flushed with the cam, crank and other parts still installed.. #2 I understand that a warped head will not seal well, but the machine shop will be taking care of rebuilding my head. The block surface presents a different problem. I observed in your video that the outer ends and edges of the cylinder head shown look cleaner. I conclude this is because more pressure is inadvertently being applied when hand sanding because the flat sanding pad is partly off the edge of the edge head and not supported allowing more pressure to be applied to the smaller surface in contact with the pad on the ends and edges of the head. You can somewhat correct for this while there pieces old head gasket material remain visible on the head or block, but once it is clean, how do you know you didn't take too much off the ends and edges of the block, thus leaving it with a bowed or lower surface on the outer edges and ends? #3 You stated the grit of the sandpaper, but not what type. Your sandpaper looks like aluminum oxide which is commonly used for wood, but shouldn't I be using a wet/dry sandpaper which would leave less dust particles from the paper and a smoother surface? Or am I being too picky? #4 My Jeep was donated to me buy the original owner, and had several issues with emissions and poor gas mileage when I received it. I solved the emissions problem with a carburetor adjustment, but it is still getting only 11 mpg which is pretty bad for a 2.8 V6. I suspected a vacuum leak, and found something odd when looking through all the old receipts from the original owner who had this Jeep before me. Twice the intake manifold gasket replaced under the dealership warranty program. To me this would indicate a vacuum leak from someone not doing the job right, or something is warped. How do I determine the if there is a problem with the intake manifold surface or block surface? Just how straight does it need to be? Doesn't grinding the head effect the way the intake manifold seals l to the head? Thank you for answering my questions. God bless.
I never received an answer, so I just Googled more You Tube information. It seemed like such a big job unless I had the right tools that I finally ended up selling the vehicle for junk. On my second vehicle I just put it under a tarp for the last 2 years till I can afford to pay someone else to fix it. I think I know how to do the job, but it I do anything wrong, i could ruin the block or head and make things worse...so I will wait. Good luck with yours. God bless. James
I decided to do it myself similar to the video. I frequently checked the cleareances with a straight edge and feeler gauge with the block still in the vehicle. I used wet sand paper with shop towels in the cylinder. I will update after i start and drive it a bit.
I agree with you 100%. When I made this video, I did not clearly explain that the engine is going to be completely disassembled, machined, cleaned, and rebuilt. I would never recommend using sandpaper of any kind on an engine block that is the vehicle or that is not going to be completely rebuilt.
What about 2000 grit sandpaper? I used one of those handheld toilet brushes to clean the surface of the head where the intake manifold mounts to. Now there's fine swirl marks everywhere.
The width, length and height of my Subaru heads leads me to believe it would take quite a bit to warp them... I just replaced my head gaskets and lapped my valves after badly overheating my engine. No machine shop involved. I hope I'm ok...
Here are a couple of videos that might help you with this: How to remove an alignment dowel: ruclips.net/video/0O0I9r9rywU/видео.html How to remove a solid alignment dowel: ruclips.net/video/W4EAvSRJq9U/видео.html.
It should be mentioned that you don't want to use any kind of abrasive on the engine deck, even fine-grit sandpaper, if you're not also going to remove and disassemble the engine so it can be cleaned out afterwards. If abrasive dust is left in the cylinders, it can scratch their walls, and if it gets into the oil passages, it can get into bearing surfaces and scratch them too. Abrasive dust in the coolant might not be as bad, but chunks that are large enough will clog coolant passages, some of which are pretty narrow in the radiator and heater core.
You can spray shaving cream in the passages to capture the debris and the vacuum it out
Great tip. I don't think I would use sandpaper on an engine that is staying in the vehicle or only being partially disassembled. I would only do this when the block is going to be fully disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt. Otherwise, you will end up with metal and silica particles in your engine, no matter how careful you are.
Thanks for showing the CORRECT way to clean up the head/block surfaces. People who use those roloc disc's are just asking to do the job twice. although I would start with such a course grit on aluminum. I usually start with 600 and work up to 1000. i dont remember ever having to go lower then 600 to start and if you do need something lower then 600 you probably need to have that part machined. I also use a little water because I like to use wet sand paper.
what about the filings getting into coolant and oil holes?
A piece of glass with sandpaper taped to it does the same thing and is more level
Glass will follow the profile of whatever is under it. Unless it’s like 2” thick
@@jaredmayer3960 1/4 glass will barley bow if hung over the edge of a table. If you have it over a table that is relatively flat. You should be good. Just make sure it is VERY supported before you start putting pressure on it.
On the cologne v6 2.8 make sure your choke works it needs a heater tube and everything working also a filter before the fuel pump and the one is ok on the carb otherwise you can plug your mechanical fuel pump.
Where did you get that flat sander?
Your videos are absolutely great. Wish I found your channel sooner. Very helpful. thanks, Artie
You can take one of those large green scratch pads... and epoxy it to a level piece of wood... it's slow, but gentle.
Even the 220 grit works great for cleaning the head
cool tip I'm cleaning up a set of small block ford heads in the garage got it nice and shiny like this video but still see some of the "black" marks same as you have on yours should i keep sanding to remove those marks? very helpful video
Or have the machine shop do it. They most likely have to correct a warp anyway. Better to pay the $100-$300 for cheap insurance rather than doing it again or worse, replacing the head and/or short/long block, used, or new crate engine
That is true. However, the people at the machine shop or at the engine remanufacturing company are also humans doing the same jobs. If you are not confident in your skills or methods, you can get peace of mind by letting someone else do it. However, with experience, training and tools, you can gain confidence in your own skills and you might even do a better job and be more meticulous than the machine shop!
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Same job but with tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of precision machinery.
What about the grains of sand that will come off of the sandpaper?
Good point. I would not recommend doing this without a very thorough cleaning. We usually do this cleaning upon first removal of the cylinder head before we check it for warpage and cracks. The head will be broken down, new guides and/or seats installed, and possibly resurfaced before a VERY THOROUGH cleaning. No matter how you clean your gasket surfaces, you should clean the components well before putting them back together.
Years ago I attempted to remove an old head gasket from a 1984 Toyota block. After removing the head, the gasket remained on the block, and was rock hard like it was welded to the surface even after multiple attempts to soak it with head gasket remover and scrap it off. It visibly looked like perfectly smooth brown glass. I worked at it for days and only made any progress after testing the edge to see if it could be removed at all with a metal scraper. I ended up selling the vehicle as junk just to get it out of my sight. I am now getting ready to tackle a head gasket job on my 1986 Jeep Cherokee with a 2.8 V6 and don't want to have the same issue as with the Toyota.
After watching your video showing you using a flat sanding pad to remove the gasket. I have several questions.
#1 When doing the block surface, doesn't the abrasive material from the sand paper get into the oil, water and cylinder openings? What materials should you use to stuff in the holes? It seem like even the smallest particle of grit from the sandpaper could scar the cylinder walls. A head can be flushed out, but the block is different since it can't be turned upside down and blown out or flushed with the cam, crank and other parts still installed..
#2 I understand that a warped head will not seal well, but the machine shop will be taking care of rebuilding my head. The block surface presents a different problem. I observed in your video that the outer ends and edges of the cylinder head shown look cleaner. I conclude this is because more pressure is inadvertently being applied when hand sanding because the flat sanding pad is partly off the edge of the edge head and not supported allowing more pressure to be applied to the smaller surface in contact with the pad on the ends and edges of the head. You can somewhat correct for this while there pieces old head gasket material remain visible on the head or block, but once it is clean, how do you know you didn't take too much off the ends and edges of the block, thus leaving it with a bowed or lower surface on the outer edges and ends?
#3 You stated the grit of the sandpaper, but not what type. Your sandpaper looks like aluminum oxide which is commonly used for wood, but shouldn't I be using a wet/dry sandpaper which would leave less dust particles from the paper and a smoother surface? Or am I being too picky?
#4 My Jeep was donated to me buy the original owner, and had several issues with emissions and poor gas mileage when I received it. I solved the emissions problem with a carburetor adjustment, but it is still getting only 11 mpg which is pretty bad for a 2.8 V6. I suspected a vacuum leak, and found something odd when looking through all the old receipts from the original owner who had this Jeep before me. Twice the intake manifold gasket replaced under the dealership warranty program. To me this would indicate a vacuum leak from someone not doing the job right, or something is warped. How do I determine the if there is a problem with the intake manifold surface or block surface? Just how straight does it need to be? Doesn't grinding the head effect the way the intake manifold seals l to the head?
Thank you for answering my questions. God bless.
WELL? They never answered the question. I am in the same boat you were. Can you tell us what happened with your block? Did you ever find an answer?
I never received an answer, so I just Googled more You Tube information. It seemed like such a big job unless I had the right tools that I finally ended up selling the vehicle for junk. On my second vehicle I just put it under a tarp for the last 2 years till I can afford to pay someone else to fix it. I think I know how to do the job, but it I do anything wrong, i could ruin the block or head and make things worse...so I will wait. Good luck with yours. God bless. James
angelhelp777 you should just get the surface machined. Have them take tenths off till she's cleaned up.
I decided to do it myself similar to the video. I frequently checked the cleareances with a straight edge and feeler gauge with the block still in the vehicle. I used wet sand paper with shop towels in the cylinder. I will update after i start and drive it a bit.
Justin Jacobsen how did it work out for you ?? Did you ever have any head gasket problems?
Don’t use anything aluminum oxide “sandpaper” near an engine. It will destroy bearings when the dust get into the engine.
I agree with you 100%. When I made this video, I did not clearly explain that the engine is going to be completely disassembled, machined, cleaned, and rebuilt. I would never recommend using sandpaper of any kind on an engine block that is the vehicle or that is not going to be completely rebuilt.
You can do an immediate oil change to get some of it out.
What's the coast of replacing the heads having them shared and refinished
What about 2000 grit sandpaper? I used one of those handheld toilet brushes to clean the surface of the head where the intake manifold mounts to. Now there's fine swirl marks everywhere.
The width, length and height of my Subaru heads leads me to believe it would take quite a bit to warp them... I just replaced my head gaskets and lapped my valves after badly overheating my engine. No machine shop involved. I hope I'm ok...
How'd it go? Did the engine survive?
try using a vise to hold the head.
How do you remove the pegs in the head or block, so you can sand evenly over all of the head?
I guess some people call them dowels.
Here are a couple of videos that might help you with this:
How to remove an alignment dowel: ruclips.net/video/0O0I9r9rywU/видео.html
How to remove a solid alignment dowel: ruclips.net/video/W4EAvSRJq9U/видео.html.
good one!
where did you get the tools for this?
thats an auto body sanding block
good
Is a fine scotchbrite pad ok?
In my opinion, yes. A fine scotchbrite pad attached to a flat sander or flat board is a good way take off the rough edges after using sandpaper.
Geo metro(suzuki g10) engine detected :)