Practices with Jay's techniques on a Road Glide I still have tendencies to throttle up on some u turns at 18 foot, but the high rpm are very noticeable and typically can stay at 1500. I get many below 1500 as the goal. Also able to go down my street with hand off the throttle at 2 mph and some of the travel I get a 1 to flash open up the clutch and get to 3 the back to 2 using no throttle or brake. That training up and down the street has helped all my drills. Straight line start clutch only and quick feet up while staying below 3 mph does help all other drills
TCC is a great method. It would be helpful when you demo the turns, indicate when/if u engage or disengage the clutch by how much since we can't see your clutch hand in the video. I tried TCC and it worked the first day but noticed timing and amount of clutch engagement was critical.
these techniques makes the most sense. Never been a fan of those high-revving instructions. When doing those tight turns without the clutch, I assume you have to be aware to keep above a certain speed?
The rear brake has become a crutch for most developing slow speed skills. Its unnecessary wear and tear, but you limit your skill development with by depending on it.
A question for experienced riders: I trained on the driving school’s motorcycle (Honda CB650r) several months ago and did the slow speed maneuvers quite well and passed the test in Germany successfully (on the second try). But now I have an older bike with a carburetor engine (1998 Kawasaki GPZ 500S - with 60 horsepower) and the power band is not that easy to control in very slow speed below 15 or 20 km/h as much as I could control the CB650 with fuel-injected engine and digital dashboards, and so I cannot do a lot of slow speed maneuvers easily on the old Kawa GPZ 500. Can anyone else confirm this about carburetor engine bikes, please?
@@abssnipes no, I don’t do that, but I will follow your advise and have one or two fingers on the handle bar this week when I practice. Thank you for the tip😇
@@sarmadkinany4867 remember stay in the friction zone very steadily. release a little the clutch if more power is needed to not drop the bike . do not clutch all the way in and out . use very little rear brake . just feather it . or better no rear brake at all . when you you become better at it, i preconise some steady power (very gentle) with the throttle. i cant advice according to the TCC technique as i just discovered myself this channel and this technique. I used to do some drills with clutch only but my turns were wide.... i will pratice again that TCC technique the next time i am out for a ride
@@abssnipes could I ask you why you recommend little to no rear brake? I have recently found out that I can stabilize the bike REAL well with the rear brake. Before my initial comment above, I almost never used the rear brake. It would be a pity now if I abandon my newly learned skill of adding rear brake for slow-speed maneuverability and U-turns lol. Thanks in advance for your answer.
@@sarmadkinany4867 to improve clutch and throttle control. It is one step further to your journey of improvement. If you rely to much on the rear brake you have less quality control of the clutch and throttle. Also, you will find yourself changing often the rear pads and risk a greater wear on the clutch plates. But yes start using rear brake and try overtime to just feather the brakes until you no longer need them that much
Nicely done, thanks for posting this!
You are welcome sir!
Practices with Jay's techniques on a Road Glide I still have tendencies to throttle up on some u turns at 18 foot, but the high rpm are very noticeable and typically can stay at 1500. I get many below 1500 as the goal. Also able to go down my street with hand off the throttle at 2 mph and some of the travel I get a 1 to flash open up the clutch and get to 3 the back to 2 using no throttle or brake. That training up and down the street has helped all my drills. Straight line start clutch only and quick feet up while staying below 3 mph does help all other drills
TCC is a great method. It would be helpful when you demo the turns, indicate when/if u engage or disengage the clutch by how much since we can't see your clutch hand in the video. I tried TCC and it worked the first day but noticed timing and amount of clutch engagement was critical.
That's amazing!
This sounds like Jay! Do more videos more often.
Im trying, I'm trying! LOL thanks for watching and the support sir!
I don’t think I’m going to try it like this until I get my motorcycle drop guards on my bike. But for right now, I gotta keep the throttle up.
Whatever you feel comfortable with.
Thanks for sharing this, Jay. Can you explain a bit more by what you mean, “high in the saddle?”
Just sit as far forward toward the gas tank to get center of gravity on the bike.
these techniques makes the most sense. Never been a fan of those high-revving instructions. When doing those tight turns without the clutch, I assume you have to be aware to keep above a certain speed?
You need to have enough speed to make the turn. It's a feel thing for me. I just kinda know after years of training brother. Just practice is all
What is the brand/product name of the strobe lights you have in the front? are they legal in Texas? Thanks for sharing
Thanks bro!
Your welcome! Thanks for your support
Why wouldn't you use your back break ? Just a little rear drag will help you greatly
The rear brake has become a crutch for most developing slow speed skills. Its unnecessary wear and tear, but you limit your skill development with by depending on it.
A question for experienced riders: I trained on the driving school’s motorcycle (Honda CB650r) several months ago and did the slow speed maneuvers quite well and passed the test in Germany successfully (on the second try). But now I have an older bike with a carburetor engine (1998 Kawasaki GPZ 500S - with 60 horsepower) and the power band is not that easy to control in very slow speed below 15 or 20 km/h as much as I could control the CB650 with fuel-injected engine and digital dashboards, and so I cannot do a lot of slow speed maneuvers easily on the old Kawa GPZ 500. Can anyone else confirm this about carburetor engine bikes, please?
Are you in friction zone steadily ? Keep one or two small fingers around the handle. It will help you stay very close to the friction zone
@@abssnipes no, I don’t do that, but I will follow your advise and have one or two fingers on the handle bar this week when I practice. Thank you for the tip😇
@@sarmadkinany4867 remember stay in the friction zone very steadily. release a little the clutch if more power is needed to not drop the bike . do not clutch all the way in and out . use very little rear brake . just feather it . or better no rear brake at all . when you you become better at it, i preconise some steady power (very gentle) with the throttle. i cant advice according to the TCC technique as i just discovered myself this channel and this technique. I used to do some drills with clutch only but my turns were wide.... i will pratice again that TCC technique the next time i am out for a ride
@@abssnipes could I ask you why you recommend little to no rear brake? I have recently found out that I can stabilize the bike REAL well with the rear brake. Before my initial comment above, I almost never used the rear brake. It would be a pity now if I abandon my newly learned skill of adding rear brake for slow-speed maneuverability and U-turns lol. Thanks in advance for your answer.
@@sarmadkinany4867 to improve clutch and throttle control. It is one step further to your journey of improvement. If you rely to much on the rear brake you have less quality control of the clutch and throttle. Also, you will find yourself changing often the rear pads and risk a greater wear on the clutch plates. But yes start using rear brake and try overtime to just feather the brakes until you no longer need them that much
One mistake and its a grand to repair.
that s also my perception on this technique. it seems to me it is a very advanced technique to acquire after mastering the friction zone ,
Drop guards
😎🇺🇸