I just bought a 1943 quality hardware carbine and when I try to chamber a round, the round falls all the way out of the barrel. Any idea as to why that is??
Have you ever run across one with no skirt? I'm rebarreling one for a customer. His old barrel has no skirt. The new one is a short skirt, and is approximately 0.050" (or one full turn) from being tightened into the receiver. Planning to use a file to hand fit the barrel, but thought I'd do my research first. Your channel has the best information thus far. Thanks for sharing
Thanks. Usually no skirt = commercial barrel. The barrel handtight should be 1 hour off +/- and tightened with the tools. A short skirt should go on without filing. Question though, GI barrel on GI receiver??? If not, I cannot help, sorry.
@@norwich93CMP hey thanks for the quick reply. I believe these are both commercial. It’s a Plainfield brand weapon. From what I’ve read they should swap out with mil spec parts pretty easily. But, this is my first go at this so I’m open to experienced advice.
I got a carbine and the metal under the gas piston is cracked, is it can it be welded back if done right or should I buy a new barrel? Whatever makes it safe
You have to have a manufacturing FFL to do it properly. Some gunsmiths will also do it. The tools are pretty expensive if you were to do it yourself. Afterwards you can resell them and have to have the gunsmith check headspace with your bolt. Sometimes the headspace is off and need a different bolt to get the headspacing correct.
Skirt has nothing to do with rebarrelling. Skirts only align the bolt face compared to the chamber and is not that significant. The only significance of a skirt with rebarrelling is if the skirt is preventing turning to have the index line to line up. If a skirt is too long and prevents this then the skirt must be filed to allow proper fit.
I have a braised trigger housing on my m1 carbine. You mentioned the braised front sight in one of your other videos and finally answered the question for me on did they use to braise some parts? I looked everywhere online for information on milled and Braised parts and never could come across any information. Thanks
Later trigger housings (IBM, Underwoord, Quality Hardware, Rock-ola, Standard Products had brazed trigger housings. There were also brazed later front sights too by those above and National Postal Meter and Saginaw S.G.
norwich93CMP Thanks for the information. I got a saginaw sg reviver, the barrel says 9/43 IBM. The carbine was my grandads who served in the pacific theatre. Glad to have a little more knowledge of the carbine!
I'm building up a carbine using a futon armory receiver and a 43 dated IBM barrel. Problem that I am running into is that the skirt seems to be bottoming out pretty solid with about 3/8" more to go to match up the tick marks. When trying to tighten it is really tight. Do I need to do someting to the skirt? Could really use some help, thanks for any info you can pass along.
When using the proper tools I like the index line to be at the 10-11 o'clock position when hand tight. If it is at the 9-10 o'clock position filing the face of the skirt area will work and little at a time checking where the index marks are falling. Be sure to clean the threads before screwing into the receiver.
Hello off topic question can I send you a pic of my M1 carbine receiver it has a slot right behind the op rod charge handle next to the front of the bolt .trying to figure why this has this .any input would be of help thank you .
I recently bought an Ethiopian import Carbine. It shot about 6 inches to the right of the bullseye. That's when I noticed that the ramp sight was off to the left and bent. I bought the tool and replaced it but I am still hitting to the right of the bullseye with maximum left windage. I looked at the barrel and receiver marks and the barrel is slightly over tightened. The left side of the barrel mark is lined up with the right side of the receiver mark. Do you think I can move that enough to line them up? If so I will need to buy the receiver wrench and barrel block and Go & No Go gauges. Do you have any recommendations on where to buy those? Also do you think think that misalignment is causing it to shoot to the right? Thank You
Wow. A lot to address. Start small then work big. If the barrel is slightly off line then the front sight is off line. Take to a gunsmith and properly align and test fire. From there you should be able to figure the rest out. Don't do it yourself, headspace may change and that can be very dangerous.
Any chance of showing separating a old receiver and barrel. I have a 1943 IBM and I cannot get the barrel and receiver to separate. Even with a 3' pipe extension. It is righthand thread and counter clockwise would be removing??
I have a enforcer m1 carbine pistol. I had fired around 500 rounds thru it with no problems then it started failure to extract with a bulge on my brass. Sent it back to universal when they were still in business. They had it for 3 months sent it back and said nothing was wrong with it wrong ammo. I refired the weapon at the gun shop and it stuck first shot any ideas. Thanks jim
Failure to extract is usually caused by: rough chamber finish, dirty (not shiny) brass, clogged up gas piston area, and/or clogged up extractor. Bulge on your brass, I would change ammo to rule it out.
Ok buddy the last video you did I message you about this issues, more likely my barrel does not have a skirt to cover up the threads. So pretty much it's exposed. But I can be wrong if my barrel has a skirt or not. I have to double check and email it to you. I still have the email you have provided. Anyhow at this point it's exposed and does showed the threading.
Skirt should only be filed if it is far off from being tight. If loose and easily hand tightened to the indexing lines then the shoulder of the chamber needs to be penned where it would met the receiver as in a M1 Garand.
Nope, there were millions of Inland hieroglyphic barrels made. Its barely noticeable if done correctly. Small ball peens all the way around the shoulder to make it even.
Very straightforward, thank you!
Awesome, thanks!
I just bought a 1943 quality hardware carbine and when I try to chamber a round, the round falls all the way out of the barrel. Any idea as to why that is??
WOW! Probably reamed out for a different caliber, which obviously is larger.
Good vid What is the threadpitch where the barrel to receiver mesh
Wow, get a copy of the M1 Carbine Shop Manual, I know its in there and they aren't expensive.
Have you ever run across one with no skirt? I'm rebarreling one for a customer. His old barrel has no skirt. The new one is a short skirt, and is approximately 0.050" (or one full turn) from being tightened into the receiver. Planning to use a file to hand fit the barrel, but thought I'd do my research first. Your channel has the best information thus far. Thanks for sharing
Thanks. Usually no skirt = commercial barrel. The barrel handtight should be 1 hour off +/- and tightened with the tools. A short skirt should go on without filing. Question though, GI barrel on GI receiver??? If not, I cannot help, sorry.
@@norwich93CMP hey thanks for the quick reply. I believe these are both commercial. It’s a Plainfield brand weapon. From what I’ve read they should swap out with mil spec parts pretty easily. But, this is my first go at this so I’m open to experienced advice.
I got a carbine and the metal under the gas piston is cracked, is it can it be welded back if done right or should I buy a new barrel? Whatever makes it safe
I would find a gunsmith who a]has done this work before if you intend to shoot it. If its an original gun I would leave it alone and not shoot it.
I enjoy your videos. Good info for new owners.
Thank you!
Do you do this for people?
No but I have fixed the threads on the barrel for someone.
Ok thanks, I was looking around for someone. Was thinking about replacement on mine.
You have to have a manufacturing FFL to do it properly. Some gunsmiths will also do it. The tools are pretty expensive if you were to do it yourself. Afterwards you can resell them and have to have the gunsmith check headspace with your bolt. Sometimes the headspace is off and need a different bolt to get the headspacing correct.
I have Plainfield barrel. has no skirt? putting back a used barrel that has no skirt either?no mention of barrels with no skirt?
Skirt has nothing to do with rebarrelling. Skirts only align the bolt face compared to the chamber and is not that significant. The only significance of a skirt with rebarrelling is if the skirt is preventing turning to have the index line to line up. If a skirt is too long and prevents this then the skirt must be filed to allow proper fit.
Awesome vid.. thank you...Love my carbine
I have a braised trigger housing on my m1 carbine. You mentioned the braised front sight in one of your other videos and finally answered the question for me on did they use to braise some parts? I looked everywhere online for information on milled and Braised parts and never could come across any information. Thanks
Later trigger housings (IBM, Underwoord, Quality Hardware, Rock-ola, Standard Products had brazed trigger housings. There were also brazed later front sights too by those above and National Postal Meter and Saginaw S.G.
norwich93CMP Thanks for the information. I got a saginaw sg reviver, the barrel says 9/43 IBM. The carbine was my grandads who served in the pacific theatre. Glad to have a little more knowledge of the carbine!
You show us how to take one off without f****** it up so I'm having a problem doing that and I don't want to mess it up really bad
I'm building up a carbine using a futon armory receiver and a 43 dated IBM barrel. Problem that I am running into is that the skirt seems to be bottoming out pretty solid with about 3/8" more to go to match up the tick marks. When trying to tighten it is really tight. Do I need to do someting to the skirt? Could really use some help, thanks for any info you can pass along.
When using the proper tools I like the index line to be at the 10-11 o'clock position when hand tight. If it is at the 9-10 o'clock position filing the face of the skirt area will work and little at a time checking where the index marks are falling. Be sure to clean the threads before screwing into the receiver.
Hello off topic question can I send you a pic of my M1 carbine receiver it has a slot right behind the op rod charge handle next to the front of the bolt .trying to figure why this has this .any input would be of help thank you .
Any video out there that shows someone using receiver wrench and the barrel vice?
Don't know but it is not too complicated. Barrel blocks go in the vise and the receiver it turned onto the barrel until the index lines met.
I recently bought an Ethiopian import Carbine. It shot about 6 inches to the right of the bullseye. That's when I noticed that the ramp sight was off to the left and bent. I bought the tool and replaced it but I am still hitting to the right of the bullseye with maximum left windage. I looked at the barrel and receiver marks and the barrel is slightly over tightened. The left side of the barrel mark is lined up with the right side of the receiver mark. Do you think I can move that enough to line them up? If so I will need to buy the receiver wrench and barrel block and Go & No Go gauges. Do you have any recommendations on where to buy those? Also do you think think that misalignment is causing it to shoot to the right? Thank You
Wow. A lot to address. Start small then work big. If the barrel is slightly off line then the front sight is off line. Take to a gunsmith and properly align and test fire. From there you should be able to figure the rest out. Don't do it yourself, headspace may change and that can be very dangerous.
Any chance of showing separating a old receiver and barrel. I have a 1943 IBM and I cannot get the barrel and receiver to separate. Even with a 3' pipe extension. It is righthand thread and counter clockwise would be removing??
Yes it is right hand thread and counterclockwise wise to loosen and removal of the receiver.
Just looked at my 1943 Underwood and it has the long skirt.
Sweet, I have a 1944 Underwood!
I have a enforcer m1 carbine pistol. I had fired around 500 rounds thru it with no problems then it started failure to extract with a bulge on my brass. Sent it back to universal when they were still in business. They had it for 3 months sent it back and said nothing was wrong with it wrong ammo. I refired the weapon at the gun shop and it stuck first shot any ideas. Thanks jim
Failure to extract is usually caused by: rough chamber finish, dirty (not shiny) brass, clogged up gas piston area, and/or clogged up extractor. Bulge on your brass, I would change ammo to rule it out.
Ok buddy the last video you did I message you about this issues, more likely my barrel does not have a skirt to cover up the threads. So pretty much it's exposed. But I can be wrong if my barrel has a skirt or not. I have to double check and email it to you. I still have the email you have provided. Anyhow at this point it's exposed and does showed the threading.
Many commercial barrels do not have a skirt.
Great video thanks
Nice video....I want one!!!!!
Or 2 or 3, LOL
Cảm ơn anh nhé!!
You are welcome.
I have a barrel that did just that lined up on hand tight....but it's an inland hylogriphic I should shave off the skirt then huh
Skirt should only be filed if it is far off from being tight. If loose and easily hand tightened to the indexing lines then the shoulder of the chamber needs to be penned where it would met the receiver as in a M1 Garand.
But wouldn't that ruin the barrel? It's an inland hylogriphic barrel
Nope, there were millions of Inland hieroglyphic barrels made. Its barely noticeable if done correctly. Small ball peens all the way around the shoulder to make it even.
norwich forever?
Queen of the Hills!!
Chổ em Việt Nam giờ mua một viên đạn tầm 100k VND tầm 4 usd/ viên.
Sounds expensive.
In need of serious help here