I gotta say Terence, this is THE BEST 'how to' I've ever seen! I love how you show the little things like, "this is the hammer I used", then you explained how you used it to install the cover. The rtv you used, the panel glue, etc. The other thing I love is you are doing it all on your back in a small garage like I am gonna have to do.haha. AND, you are filming it all. I am gonna watch the rest of your vids just because.
Thank you SOOOO much Gary. I really appreciate you watching my content. I am glad my video can help you and others. Once again, thank you for watching.
Tim here, Sheri's husband and USMC vet. You work like a military trained pro. I've been turning wrenches for over 55 years. It's nice to see some one that takes pride in their work. I have a 96 GMC Suburban with the same issue. Not looking forward to doing the same thing. I subscribed and looking forward to watching all your videos. God Bless you and yours.
GREAT job. I have done a couple before, one a 2 wheel drive and one on a 4x4. I took the transfer case loose and pulled it and the trans out. Man, I like your way much better. Thanks for the video.
Hi, did you watch the video? I did everything by myself in my garage using floor jacks. This is probably the most detailed video on RUclips regarding this fix. The fix is flawless. No leaks.
Hi Terence, I was wondering how long the extension was that you used @40:00 to get the bolt on top of the transmission was? I have a 12" extension but the one in the video seems way longer.
It's a 24" craftsman. Here is a cheaper option but is just as good! www.harborfreight.com/professional-super-long-extension-set-3-piece-56698.html?campaignid=21901739033&adsetid=173216759951&product=56698&store=3410&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4f5-a-mTRlVZnpOUT_OtxAj2&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LEsNtH-PajJBDxy_cUpBOwN_1iVHg3123YhKMW7cl_yPBF2WZEByOxoCJjEQAvD_BwE
Terence, I watch a lot of RUclips videos on a lot of different subjects and seldom subscribe. I appreciate the detail in your videos. I appreciate your knowledge, professionalism and teaching ability. Well done Sir! I subscribed to your channel. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart. You put a huge smile on my face. Also, thanks for watching and subscribing to my channel. I REALLY appreciate it.
Awesome job Sir! Helped me out greatly! Keep up the great, Quality Job you are doing! You can’t find a great mechanic, such as yourself, who take pride in their work these days.
Wow incredilbe video and work shown. Im a you-tube mechanic and this is way above my pay grade. My 2012 camaro just developed a rear main seal leak ,its a slow leak but need addressing. Ive used lucas oil leak stop for the moment until I find an honest mechanic to replace the seal. At least now i know what the job intel's. Subscribed!!!
16:04 Man i hear you. I’ve been a auto mechanic for almost 30 years, and going behind someone who did a hack job can be a nightmare. So are customers who come in with there like 29.99 scan tool advertised everywhere for people who don’t want to get ripped off by a mechanic. They get their code and it’s definition and think they know exactly what’s wrong with their vehicle. They are oblivious to to all the reasons a particular code can be set. As an example, they get a code for a particular sensor and want that sensor replaced . Then you go along with their diagnosis at their request , and if it doesn’t fix the problem or makes the problem worse because they got SHT for parts . They get upset with you because you must have done something wrong. Because remember their little tool told them what the problem was
Really great video, my escalade got this same issue on a trip, so I'm having a shop fix it, but I appreciate understanding what is going on and what the job entails. I've got the same engine so I'm subscribing to learn more from you
Lucas stabilizer is great just make sure when you use synthetic oil you get synthetic oil stabilizer there are 2 I recently learned this, heat video amazing well explained and shot
Great video Terence! I will need to do the same thing to my wife's suburban and I have to say I'm nervous doing the job, but after watching your great video I have more confidence in myself now.
Hi Richard, you can do it just as I did and you guys will save a ton of money. I'm confident in you. Just follow the steps precisely, and the seal will out last your truck. Thank you SO much for watching.
Terrence. My question / isn't it easier to just pull the engine. I have a leaky oil seal and laying on the ground is something i can't do physically. Please someone reply if I am wrong. Or if you have done it both ways.
Unfortunately, this is the better method for this job. When I fist did one of these years ago, I weighed my options of removing the engine or going this route and this way was the BEST option. I'll put it in perspective for you, If you decide to remove the engine, it will be MUCH easier to replace the main seal. However, you will have to remove the radiator, oil lines, transmission lines, coolant hoses, replace coolant, possibly have the AC recharged unless you move the compressor to the side after removing it from the engine, undo the complete harness, and so many more little things (not to mention possibly damaging sensors, hoses, etc...). Where as in this situation, you may have to top off the transmission fluid and buy an exhaust flange gasket for a couple of bucks. I know these engines VERY well. Thnaks for watching.
Awesome job my first time watching your video I also have to replace my rear main seal on my 2004 z71 hopefully I can find a good mechanic as yourself looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
Great video. I commend you for doing this job on your back on the floor. A shame the person there before you was a hack. I did not see details about putting the cooler line spring clips back in. Was this difficult Those type things worry me since I'm visually impaired but will still give it a go thanks to your help
They are fairly easy to pop in place then you can push the lines in after. I just did a job yesterday involving them. I used a very small pick tool since it was in a tight space and removed them effortlessly. Thank you SO much for watching.
This is a great vid thank you! Your tip about removing the passenger side wheel well cover is a great one. Totally worth it given the tightness of that area. I had a hell of a time removing the starter without taking out the wheel well liner, wasnt worth it i think ill remove it for reinstall. I see you did not use the alignment tool to center the rear cover. Im in the process of finishing this job now. I think im gonna try dry for everything. I have a new oil pan gasket already installed (dry Fel Pro) so i think it may work dry. Went with a fel pro rear cover seal and rear main, so im reusing my old rear cover plate. Thing about the rtv in the corners is the bottom of the plate seals to the oil pan gasket so unless you pull the pan you can only rtv one side of this gasket mating surface... definitely a finicky job i sure dont want to do it twice!
I have done many of these with flawless results. No need for the alignment tool. The way that I have done this particular job is from past experiences. This job was executed perfectly. You can't find a drop of oil underneath the truck and it has been over a year later. I want to thank you for watching my content and sharing that information. I really appreciate it.
Lol that rearain seal isn't bad unless you have to add a quart a week! Lmao that's what motivated me to do the rear main seal, oil pan, and timing chain cover. Mines an 05 tahoe with 270k and not a speck of rust on it, I live in Tucson AZ. I say zero rust, but the trade off is rubber breakdown. Great video
New Sub. This is a Masterclass off your back bro! The 4k video is spot on!!!! You said something about 6 mins vid for prep. Prep is everything.... I admire your work/skill👍
I showed in the video. I just added a little jb steel weld on that small section. Although it was cracked in that small section, it would not affect the transmission whatsoever. The flywheel/flex plate was also cracked. I did not notice it until I starting editing the video. I will have an update with me replacing the flexplate and showing how flawless of a job the rear main seal leak fix was in the process.
What year of suburban was it and also I need a rear main seal done on a 2000 model and a 2005 model is there much difference in your model than my other two?
Yep. Totally missed that. Although I am AMAZING at fixing cars, we all make mistakes. This was a flawless job minus the flex plate. Thanks for watching. BTW, I will be replacing the flex plate soon and showing the progress of this job a year and a half later.
@@TerenceDIY I’m not gonna lie bro, I need to do this on my 07 Escalade but I’ve put so much work into it and things just keep bringing. I think I’m gonna let her go for sale.
@@DJKadilac , aw man. If she runs good, I'd fix it. If you do everything I've done in this video the exact same, it will never leak again. This is an inexpensive fix if you do it yourself and it will save you money rather than buying a new vehicle. Even if you fix it and decide to sell it right after, you can get max dollar for your truck. If you try to sell it with that leak, you can expect someone to try and low ball you. I'm only trying to add some logic to the situation. I'm all about saving money. Once again, thank you so much for watching.
If you were to both the pan and rear cover/crank gaskets what order would you do? I imagine you wouldn't want to have the trans out and the front diff loose at the same time.
I have an amazing detaled oil pan gasket job video on this truck as well. You can definitely do both at the same time. If you have your truck on jack stands like I do in thisi video and you have a couple of jacks, I would start at the front and work my way to the back. Meaning, lowering the front diff as I do in my oil pan video and then pulling that transmission back. That way you can knock both jobs out fairly easily. Let me know if you have ANY more questions. Thanks,
@@TerenceDIY Which is better to do first? Pan or rear plate? I image having the pan in first helps with aligning the crank seal or does it matter? Would one have both off at the same time or RR one at a time?
I am sorry if I came offensive, I am here to HELP. You can ask as many questions as you like. You are correct as far as going with the pan first. That way you can seal that bottom section of the main seal perfectly. Use a decent amount of gasket sealer when mating the rear main seal cover to the oil pan.
@@TerenceDIY Cool. I'm sure lots of opinions get thrown around. Pan first makes senses to me. Sealant on the pan rails and the block/front cover only. Followed up by sealant on the bottom of the rear to get the last of the pan. I just bought an 03 Silverado and am finding all kinds of deferred maintenance. gaskets, u joints, probably transfer case, AC, Rear diff seams sloppy. I don't know of back lash is off or in transfer case. Manual NP261.
Nice video replace my 6l80 4 months ago now I have to do this 😂😂😂😂. That's that while your in there lmao. Da well time to pull tranny again. Thinking about putting a higher stall converter inn while it's pulled again
18 ft-lbs on housing to engine cover bolts? My same dorman cover gasket kit instructions say 22 ft-lbs. Or did you do 18 ft-lbs because of the Rtv you put on.?
Yep, and I use thread locker (medium) on the bolts. This was a flawless job. If followed correctly, you will not see a drop of oil under your vehicle for the life of ownership. Thanks for watching.
@@TerenceDIY Sweet I have threadlocker medium too. I was trying to decide whether to use ultra grey or black but sounds like I'll be going to get that optimum flex instead. I think I'm going to use it on my oil pan gasket as well while I'm in there changing the oil pick-up tube o-ring. since I'm reusing the old oil pan gasket that doesn't look too bad the optimum sounds like a great sealer.
@@TerenceDIYI have one more question so on the optimum flex it says to hand tighten and let dry for One hour before torque spec on bolts. But if I use threadlocker on the bolts before hand tightening will I still be able to tighten them to torque spec after the hour before the threadlocker hardens? Sorry I'm just trying to make sure I do it right.
You're very welcome Robert. If you follow my detailed steps, I guarantee your seal will be leak free. My truck is and has been bone dry underneath since this fix. Good luck with your job and thank you SO much for watching.
Thank you very much. Here are some parts links... www.ebay.com/itm/263256735407?fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=169108870&hash=item3d4b52feaf:g:zJMAAOSwAr9ZgFIe&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAKBWdSaWpcACNMM1SqJYj0zKOyGQseoUrql6DXVlv4n0yQQy6c%2FowuioQ2YjFYKeuZCuIyI74dQZwwPwNO2NOpMRXVvof6zBP9JBjskc6MLExdRKeWB7RkJKV9qTLiRVrKUJowBMKy18dFzoom8kJZ1Kln1PK9m7FXywmhE6adEv%2BtVg0hfI%2B1%2F267aNMu2k4vlWpuUbJ4mCzW6brRE94%2BsvmjEilzwNh0OLozwYZyeUDrOHNv1vKQZtPhJ2D5ttfTu8vDDU%2BieVPa6kISChS%2FgSPhGDUThawbX0%2F3nCcd50B7UV4bhEaSG1VP10DvWMDtNqLIqikEiLWVavO9XMARg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwPr2o9Nh www.ebay.com/itm/115551638013?fits=Year%3A2007%7CModel%3ASuburban+1500%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=1224874956&hash=item1ae76a11fd:g:GjAAAOSwKutiUxzs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsOLW%2BZZfgcWBWih6d5YdK2af6KS9%2Fprz%2FkKQr4Nn%2Blkl1Lumhku6dVKBa%2FU51GKQ1nGUfFJZH%2F8XqoDI7DTmQIt4ly0bbCXoAdh1ccbpeKM2Y5EzuNXlw1GAF7iHi1hKzOxjgyEUhK5n3FenMgXhuuDAJG0G2EW3uzZZ0R%2F8A0tmjWhprGFCgSyzcgqzmttT7JICv0Dmeau9OTjDr%2Fn5MtAtksLe2OOiBzRhCSisTZDn%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7jW_6PTYQ
I see a lot of videos were guys are putting on the rear main gasket dry. I know that the crankshaft seal for sure goes on dry. But as far as the gasket, is it recommended to go on dry? But you recommend coating it in black selant right ? Just want clarification bwvause your the only one or maybe one other guy I seen that coats the rear main cover and gasket in black sealant
Hi Matt, I'm not sure of other videos but I will say, this video is the correct way and probably the MOST detailed. If you follow my video exactly as I did it, you will have a leak free fix. As far as the black sealant, I used it as a dressing to seal the imperfections that the metal gasket or housing may have. When oil gets hot, it will seep through the smallest cracks. This insures that does not happen. Thank you SO much for watching. If you have ANY more questions, please don't hesitate to ask. BTW, I am currently doing an update video on this to show how the rear main seal look well over a year after installed this.
Thank you so much for your reply. I appreciate all your help. I installed today. I noticed when I started tightening bolts that oil was dumping out of the bolt holes. I figured this is normal since I’m torquing things down. Crossing fingers everything is good. Awesome job again on this video, very in depth with every piece of step. Great job! Is there a way to see if this will leak before bolting stuff up ? I also wiped down the excess of the gasket maker off the sides around the cover is this ok? I’d appreciate your feedback. Thanks again. God bless u
What holes was oil dumping out of? The cover holes? Also, there is no way to start it until you put everything back. As far as wiping off the excess, it doesn't matter. I didn't wipe it off. In this video, if you look at the flex plate, there's a hairline crack in it. I overlooked that because I was so focused on doing a flawless job with the seal. A subscriber pointed that out months later and I was shocked that I missed it given the fact that I have worked on a gazillion cars since the age of 10 and is great at it. I made a rookie mistake there. I'm only human. Lol. Anyway, I just replaced the flex plate(it started making noise), replaced manifolds, broken bolts (flush in the head) and filmed an update of the seal a year plus later. Four AMAZING videos coming. I am starting the editing now.
So I put gasket maker on the rear cover and the block like you did and I started putting the bolts on the rear cover and as I torqued them down u can see oil coming out when torquing the bolts down. Not a lot just drips. I wiped everything down so going to see if there is anymore coming from bolt holes on the rear cover. I didn’t see anymore after everything was torqued. So After I torqued everything down I went around the with a cloth and wiped all the excess black gasket maker which was around the rear main cover. Is this ok to do? Just hope it won’t leak from doing this. Next time I’ll just leave it Look forward to watching them all.
No. I've done them both SOOO many times. Trust me, that was my initial thought when I first did one of these. That's just my opinion. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
I did this job and almost have it back together, but can’t figure out where the second vent hose goes. One goes from the transfer case, then y’s to the top of the transmission then to the top bolt of the bell housing. The other one is connected to it at the bolt on the top of the bell housing, but I have no idea what it plugs into? Have you got an answer for me?
Are you talking about the vent hose that runs from the bell housing along the side of the transmission? I believe there's a vent hose that vents directly to the ground that doesn't plug into anything. I would have to take a look at my truck.
I got my rear main replaced on my 07 tahoe and got a fresh oil change and im getting reddish black dots of oil now on passenger side at the corner of bell housing near starter is it normal to have leftover drips after rear main replaced??
Nope. It's funny you mentioned this. When I purchased this truck someone had did the rear main seal prior, but did a crappy job. Well, just as yours. mines was dripping oil on the passsenger side in the starter area just off the corner of the bell housing. I went as far as replacing the oil pan gasket (video on the channel), thinking that would fix my problem, just hoping the seal wasn't leaking. Then it started getting worse. I knew exactly what it was. I ended up doing it the correct way hence, this video and it's been flawless. Please pay close attention to it. It should NOT be dripping anything. Thank you SO much for watching.
A legit question, is all that silicone really necessary on the cover gasket? I thought they are suppose to be a dry installed gasket(except for seams where cover meets pan).
I have done this job quite a few times and I always do it exactly as I did in this video. The reason I use the gasket maker is because the imperfections in the metal especially over time. When oil heats up, it becomes very thin and can seep through the tiniest cracks or fractures that the metal cover surface may have. Plus, I have dealt with leaks early on with just using it in the seams. This is a fairly big job so that extra protection is added security for leaks. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
@@TerenceDIY right on thanks, i just had to ask because im doing this job currently and the machining marks on the block surface are BAD. think im gonna just silicone it like you did.
Absoluetly not. I am not trying to boast but I can say this is one of the best and accurate videos regarding this fix on RUclips. It may be the best. Thank you for watching.
Just got my rear main seal on! Quick question- is it alright to torque the bolts down before the 1hr mark? Looks like the instructions say to wait an hour before torquing but I torqued them maybe in half that time. Also, I noticed when I was turning the crank to line up the seal, a little bit of oil made its way out from somewhere. Will this be a concern on the final cure of the gasket maker? I know it says it’s oil resistant but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I almost want to try to start the engine without the transmission on to make sure the leak is fully sealed. I would hate to have to ever do this again on this truck.
If you let the gasket maker sit for at least 30 minutes you should be fine. NOTE: It's only insurance for a leak free seal since the gasket does not require any sealant. I would not worry about the little bit of oil, you should be fine. If you did the fix exactly as I show it, you're guaranteed not to leak. My truck has been bone dry underneath since I did this. I am currently doing a video about this.
@@TerenceDIY almost there Terence! Quick question, were you able to get a torque wrench onto the torque converter bolts? It’s very tight in there and I can’t seem to get mine fit on properly. Saw some other video where a guy just used an impact and snugged them up good. That’s kinda what I did, and I used red loctite as well. Curious how you got yours on! Thanks
@@ruslankontsimal7072 , a ratchet or an impact is fine and you're using that red loctite. I used a breaker bar to snug them down if my memory serves me correct. You're good. Once again, thank you for watching. Let me know how it turns out.
The jack I was using for the transmission is my ATV/ Motorcycle jack. Here are a few links to some jacks I recommend you buy since you are just getting your feet wet (links below). I've been working on cars since the tender age of 10 so if you have ANY questions, my brain is packed with knowledge and experience. www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-70262.html www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-low-profile-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html Or you can go on Facebook market place and scavenge for better jacks for a great price.
As you can see in the video, the entire truck is jacked up very high on 6 ton jack stands. 2-ton's will work, but I would not trust them. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely. No need to drop them or detach them. If you follow the video correctly, I gaurantee your truck will never leak again! Thank you SO much for watching.
Since I recorded all of the details, it took me two days working 5-6 hours both days. Had I not recorded, I could have done this in one day easily. Thanks for watching.
Great job my man! I'm about to start on mine today. 05 tahoe 5.3l 4x4. I've heard people messing up the tranny pump when reinstalling. How do I avoid that. Thank you!
You have to be really aggressive with that transmission to mess up that pump (I MEAN REALLY AGGRESSIVE). Don't let that bother you. You'll be fine. If you follow the video exactly as I did, you will have a flawless job and guaranteed leak free. Thank you SOOO much for watching I really appreciate it.
You can use a standard hydraulic jack with the exact boards that I used, just make sure they are centered. I would have done this just as well with a regular 3 ton hydraulic jack. Thanks,
Here are some parts links www.ebay.com/itm/263256735407?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3ASuburban+1500%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=169108870&hash=item3d4b52feaf:g:zJMAAOSwAr9ZgFIe&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAFT6PaXhi%2F2Mb9%2BT1b6GXK3jPb1hUaowwkgktA1nh%2FrYIjw0j2yY6k1VmnMmiK6FfptWn%2BgdWiqKf5dGCcbnqELLNxCDXuR0pRlSVBhwqW34owUj2OPwbxQ8MTzQznKN1szZ7%2F8Q62SY6pOOvkGXN61u71k8VxEEcEodXgw9%2FZKgIOz82pTBZpL7cQnYk3cn0%2B1Jh%2Bxe4AL44KzLet2ehEEvJ3t%2F7ChmYi7VzI8OEt5A5k1sGuyw5bpQNYEZRwtfAt7FTIoQ8Om%2BnVQ%2BmAEGixMzmlKKkDEgZPjbbaAtpt3eT%2Fzc1%2Bwh3N5ymiXmox160IIIqaJF0Pa28Z%2BoRmkJsVo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsPux1JVj shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-optimum-easy-disassembly-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-oz-27037/11691103-p?product_channel=local&store=6923&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6923&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s7QnPjGh36Un3JcbkjQdT_WEt663KOdtIGxjk_TiizNMOUNmCpe8xBoC5eEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds www.amazon.com/Permatex-25210-Strength-Removable-ThreadLocker/dp/B07R6B87S5/ref=asc_df_B07R6B87S5/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=365910377250&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8238953337258010880&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021629&hvtargid=pla-784113504414&mcid=5de48bf748ff304a8a5bc3a87d91215a&ref=&adgrpid=79954179287&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s5Df2r7EKw9F9dEUYIzkyoYPS62t5UJZjniCgvMEuXpbKWAgB7ZxAhoCUHwQAvD_BwE&th=1 www.partsgeek.com/8gzkfpg-gmc-yukon-xl-1500-exhaust-gasket.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+GMC+Yukon+XL+1500+Exhaust+Gasket+Walker+Converter+Inlet+(Left)+00-14+GMC+Exhaust+Gasket+2001+2008&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s1Z5Qu8XH_wirmhSI-D3AQ724CNO84zhTuUNPKh7G77s5sERJIw9aBoCpUIQAvD_BwE www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-MaxLife-Multi-Vehicle-Full-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-ATF-1-GA/15125768?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4049&adid=2222222227715125768_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9021629&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15125768&wl13=4049&veh=sem_LIA&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=2222222223715125768_117755028669_12420145346&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9021629&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15125768&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s7-WLQUydhG4Nw48ERk5siqjUQkebh2M53O_BC5xRAKIJhaB7uqJjBoCP-IQAvD_BwE
I got my truck a year ago started to think i had a lemon with the stuff i was finding but now i realize i got the whole lemon tree lol no heat in the rear, no AC at all quarter panels are rotting off rear bumper disintegrate when you poke it the abs modulator stopped working a week after i got it, there some airbag sensor is shot now power steering is going on the right side step sides are starting to fall off. Omg ....Have you done the abs modulator that's under the driver seat out side the truck? If so have you done a video for that and if so how complicated was it that's all for now.
If you tackle this job, please follow this video and replace ONLY the things that I changed. If you do exactly as I did in the video, the job will be flawless. I also have an update video dropping within the next week or so. Thank you SO much for watching.
Also, if you're going to a shop, they are going to try and charge you a bag, upwards of $1500 or more and on the low end a $1000. Be careful for low priced mechanics. This job entails lots of labor and needs to be done correctly otherwise you'll find yourself having to get it done over (I have seen this many times). Thanks again for watching.
Im in the process of my first rear main seal replacement and noticed that u smeared the gasket maker on both surfaces where the instructions call for a bead on just one surface. Does that make a difference?
This is the way that I do it. If you decide to do it the way that I did in the video, you will have a flawless leak free job that will last the life of the vehicle. I probably have the only video on RUclips showing this, and this detailed, but this was on a Chevy bulletin years back that I read. I've done this job many times with flawless results. I would not do it any other way. You can do it either way, but I'll let you decide. NOTE: If you do choose to go the route that I did, please by the exact gasket maker that I used. Thank you SO much for watching.
You are correct, but I would NEVER install one unless I was building a performance engine. It's a waste of money. The OEM stock one is much better for the standard block. Thanks for watching!
@@TerenceDIY i watched it like 20 times cause i had to do this to my brother in law's 2008 suburban. Most detailed video i could find. Thank you for making it.
ADVICE ALERT FOR EXHAUST BOLTS: If you have access to one, use an AIR HAMMER! My story - I was able to get two nuts off on the passenger side with heat and penetrating fluid. There was one nut that started to get rounded (I might have kickstarted that process by initially using a 12 point wrench - USE A 6 POINT!). Anyways, it got worse and worse and just rounded completely. Took me a few days of thought and relaxation (this is my personal vehicle that I'm not in a rush to get back on the road). I saw there was a chisel method on RUclips to remove rounded/rusted nuts; I remembered I had an air hammer somewhere with chisel attachments (I believe this was actually a cheap Harbor Freight unit I had). Anyways, I had to sharpen the tip a few times, but I got the nut off! Thankfully for me, the nut I had rounded was actually quite visible in the wheel well with the fender liner removed. It almost seems as though I didn't chisel all the way through, but the vibration of the tool actually knocked the nut loose. I then used a combination of pliers and more air hammering and finally took the nut off! I might have to run a tap on that stud to reuse it but that's a totally acceptable tradeoff for me. Same on the driver side! Literally, same situation - the brake lines were almost in the way but I worked around them. One of my studs on the driver side snapped off (might take the header/exhaust manifold off and extract it and put a new one in). And then the other last nut I had wasn't rounded, but stubborn. I didn't want to risk rounding it as well, so I gently used the air hammer, heat, and WD40 (ran out of penetrating fluid) to help knock the nut loose. Lo and behold, I might've chiseled only 1-2mm into the nut and it actually knocked it a bit loose, went underneath with my impact gun and swivel socket - nut came right off! Also, it helps to support the pipe underneath with some sort of jack or something (position it so it doesn't get in the way). This will release some of the tension on that nut and could help loosen/remove it! Now, onto the next steps! Best of luck to all!
I gotta say Terence, this is THE BEST 'how to' I've ever seen! I love how you show the little things like, "this is the hammer I used", then you explained how you used it to install the cover. The rtv you used, the panel glue, etc. The other thing I love is you are doing it all on your back in a small garage like I am gonna have to do.haha. AND, you are filming it all. I am gonna watch the rest of your vids just because.
Thank you SOOOO much Gary. I really appreciate you watching my content. I am glad my video can help you and others. Once again, thank you for watching.
By far the best most in-depth rear main seal tutorial I’ve seen on RUclips thx bro.
Thank you SO much and thanks for watching. I really appreciate you watching my content.
Tim here, Sheri's husband and USMC vet. You work like a military trained pro. I've been turning wrenches for over 55 years. It's nice to see some one that takes pride in their work. I have a 96 GMC Suburban with the same issue. Not looking forward to doing the same thing. I subscribed and looking forward to watching all your videos. God Bless you and yours.
Hi Tim, thank you so much for the kind words and subscribing to my channel. It really means a lot to me.
Semper Fi Bro!
GREAT job. I have done a couple before, one a 2 wheel drive and one on a 4x4. I took the transfer case loose and pulled it and the trans out. Man, I like your way much better. Thanks for the video.
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much for watching. I REALLY appreciate it.
Great video bro, old school mechanics like us are becoming rare these days, thanks for the quality video!
I agree. Thank you SO much for watching.
Thank you for sharing the wonderful job you have done to your Suburban.
You're very welcome. Thank YOU for watching my content.
I’m in the process of replacing my transmission, rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my 2005 Avalanche. Your video is spot on!! Great job
Thank you and good luck with your job. Also, thank you SO much for watching.
Did you replace yourself? How'd it go? Did you use a lift or how did you do it?
Hi, did you watch the video? I did everything by myself in my garage using floor jacks. This is probably the most detailed video on RUclips regarding this fix. The fix is flawless. No leaks.
Hi Terence, I was wondering how long the extension was that you used @40:00 to get the bolt on top of the transmission was? I have a 12" extension but the one in the video seems way longer.
It's a 24" craftsman. Here is a cheaper option but is just as good!
www.harborfreight.com/professional-super-long-extension-set-3-piece-56698.html?campaignid=21901739033&adsetid=173216759951&product=56698&store=3410&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4f5-a-mTRlVZnpOUT_OtxAj2&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LEsNtH-PajJBDxy_cUpBOwN_1iVHg3123YhKMW7cl_yPBF2WZEByOxoCJjEQAvD_BwE
Terence, I watch a lot of RUclips videos on a lot of different subjects and seldom subscribe. I appreciate the detail in your videos. I appreciate your knowledge, professionalism and teaching ability. Well done Sir!
I subscribed to your channel. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart. You put a huge smile on my face. Also, thanks for watching and subscribing to my channel. I REALLY appreciate it.
Awesome job Sir! Helped me out greatly! Keep up the great, Quality Job you are doing! You can’t find a great mechanic, such as yourself, who take pride in their work these days.
Thank you SO much David. I really appreciate it and YOU watching my content.
You are not only competent, but you are a good teacher. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, Tony. And thank you for watching my content. I really appreciate it.
Wow incredilbe video and work shown. Im a you-tube mechanic and this is way above my pay grade. My 2012 camaro just developed a rear main seal leak ,its a slow leak but need addressing. Ive used lucas oil leak stop for the moment until I find an honest mechanic to replace the seal. At least now i know what the job intel's. Subscribed!!!
Thank you so much for watching my content and subscribing to my channel. I really appreciate it.
You're doing God's work. I just want you to know that. Thanks man.
You're very welcome. Thank you for putting a smile on my face and watching my content.
Thanks for sharing,I have to tackle this same job on my 04 Yukon Denali your knowledge shed a lot of light and answered a lot of my questions.
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching and good luck with your fix.
16:04 Man i hear you. I’ve been a auto mechanic for almost 30 years, and going behind someone who did a hack job can be a nightmare. So are customers who come in with there like 29.99 scan tool advertised everywhere for people who don’t want to get ripped off by a mechanic. They get their code and it’s definition and think they know exactly what’s wrong with their vehicle. They are oblivious to to all the reasons a particular code can be set. As an example, they get a code for a particular sensor and want that sensor replaced . Then you go along with their diagnosis at their request , and if it doesn’t fix the problem or makes the problem worse because they got SHT for parts . They get upset with you because you must have done something wrong. Because remember their little tool told them what the problem was
I TOTALLY agree with everything you said.
Really great video, my escalade got this same issue on a trip, so I'm having a shop fix it, but I appreciate understanding what is going on and what the job entails. I've got the same engine so I'm subscribing to learn more from you
Thank you very much! Thanks for watching and subscribing.
You are amazing !!!! Such a badass video ! Clear step by step 💯😊 thank you so much
Thanks for placing a smile on my face and watching my content. I really appreciate it.
Lucas stabilizer is great just make sure when you use synthetic oil you get synthetic oil stabilizer there are 2 I recently learned this, heat video amazing well explained and shot
Great video Terence! I will need to do the same thing to my wife's suburban and I have to say I'm nervous doing the job, but after watching your great video I have more confidence in myself now.
Hi Richard, you can do it just as I did and you guys will save a ton of money. I'm confident in you. Just follow the steps precisely, and the seal will out last your truck. Thank you SO much for watching.
You are a blessing from God. brother.
You put a massive smile on my face today. Thank you for the kind words and watching my content.
Not every one takes pride in there work can tell you love what you do good video was really helpful
Thank you Shannon and thanks for watching!
Agree you do take pride in your work 👍🏻
*their
Thank you for your video best video I've seen very detaild I'm going to your video when it's time to do my truck thank you
You're very welcome Victor. Thank you SO much for watching and good luck with your fix.
Just wanted to say thank you for the video it is extremely helpful I'm working on the same greasy wet fart of a truck same year and everything
You're very welcome Rob. If you do the job exactly as I did, it will outlast the truck! lol. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
Thank you! Very detailed informative video, well done!!
You're very welcome. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
Thanks for this GREAT video! It helps a lot.
You're very welcome. Thank you so much for watching.
I have a 2003 Yukon XL... same problem. Your video was excellent!! Just subscribed... Fantastic Job!!!👍👍👍👍
Thank you and I REALLY appreciate your subscription.
Terrence. My question / isn't it easier to just pull the engine. I have a leaky oil seal and laying on the ground is something i can't do physically. Please someone reply if I am wrong. Or if you have done it both ways.
Unfortunately, this is the better method for this job. When I fist did one of these years ago, I weighed my options of removing the engine or going this route and this way was the BEST option. I'll put it in perspective for you, If you decide to remove the engine, it will be MUCH easier to replace the main seal. However, you will have to remove the radiator, oil lines, transmission lines, coolant hoses, replace coolant, possibly have the AC recharged unless you move the compressor to the side after removing it from the engine, undo the complete harness, and so many more little things (not to mention possibly damaging sensors, hoses, etc...). Where as in this situation, you may have to top off the transmission fluid and buy an exhaust flange gasket for a couple of bucks. I know these engines VERY well. Thnaks for watching.
Dig that syrupy accent. Where you from, bro? Great, detailed video, thanks.
Born and raised west side of Chicago. Thank you SO much for watching.
Great job
Thank you
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Awesome job my first time watching your video I also have to replace my rear main seal on my 2004 z71 hopefully I can find a good mechanic as yourself looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
Thank you Mark and thank you SO much for watching.
Have you ever had front shaft not come out of transfer case mine won't budge ujoints are about done
I have had some stubborn ones throughout the years but I always get them out.
Great video. I commend you for doing this job on your back on the floor. A shame the person there before you was a hack.
I did not see details about putting the cooler line spring clips back in. Was this difficult
Those type things worry me since I'm visually impaired but will still give it a go thanks to your help
They are fairly easy to pop in place then you can push the lines in after. I just did a job yesterday involving them. I used a very small pick tool since it was in a tight space and removed them effortlessly. Thank you SO much for watching.
Sir, my first time watching your video. Thank you so much for taking your time and explaining everything and giving tips. I’ll be subscribing!
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much for subscribing. I really appreciate it.
You explained it so good I watched it 2x!!! Appreciate the knowledge
Thank you Jay and thank you SO much for watching!
This is a great vid thank you! Your tip about removing the passenger side wheel well cover is a great one. Totally worth it given the tightness of that area. I had a hell of a time removing the starter without taking out the wheel well liner, wasnt worth it i think ill remove it for reinstall.
I see you did not use the alignment tool to center the rear cover. Im in the process of finishing this job now. I think im gonna try dry for everything. I have a new oil pan gasket already installed (dry Fel Pro) so i think it may work dry. Went with a fel pro rear cover seal and rear main, so im reusing my old rear cover plate. Thing about the rtv in the corners is the bottom of the plate seals to the oil pan gasket so unless you pull the pan you can only rtv one side of this gasket mating surface... definitely a finicky job i sure dont want to do it twice!
I have done many of these with flawless results. No need for the alignment tool. The way that I have done this particular job is from past experiences. This job was executed perfectly. You can't find a drop of oil underneath the truck and it has been over a year later. I want to thank you for watching my content and sharing that information. I really appreciate it.
Outstanding video buddy. Great job very informative. Thank you.
You're very welcome Victor. Thank you SO much for watching.
Amen to you bro this video helped me tremendously, and glad to see other DIYers do better than paid mechanics quality
Thank you. I am glad my video helped you. Thanks for watching!
I agree, they were charging my brother in law 850$ to do this, i was like noooo ill do it just buy the part and jack stands and i got'chu.
Good job man I love your video Very detail thank you
You're very welcome. Thank YOU so much for watching.
such a great video man 👍
Thank you SOOOO much and thanks for watching.
excellent video
Thank you and thanks for watching. I REALLY appreciate it.
This is a great video, thank you! I plan on doing mine as I install a turbo and new trans on my Avalanche.
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much watching.
Lol that rearain seal isn't bad unless you have to add a quart a week! Lmao that's what motivated me to do the rear main seal, oil pan, and timing chain cover. Mines an 05 tahoe with 270k and not a speck of rust on it, I live in Tucson AZ. I say zero rust, but the trade off is rubber breakdown. Great video
Must be great to not deal with rust. It's terrible here. LOL Thank you SO much for watching!
GOOD JOB BRO...im about to do my 2007 tahoe,watch the video don't look easy but im going to do it.
Thank you. You can do it. Not a bad job at all. Thanks for watching!
New Sub. This is a Masterclass off your back bro! The 4k video is spot on!!!!
You said something about 6 mins vid for prep.
Prep is everything....
I admire your work/skill👍
Thank you SO much for the compliment and watching my channel. I really apreciate it.
Thanks!
Good job but what did you do about the cracked bell housing
I showed in the video. I just added a little jb steel weld on that small section. Although it was cracked in that small section, it would not affect the transmission whatsoever. The flywheel/flex plate was also cracked. I did not notice it until I starting editing the video. I will have an update with me replacing the flexplate and showing how flawless of a job the rear main seal leak fix was in the process.
What year of suburban was it and also I need a rear main seal done on a 2000 model and a 2005 model is there much difference in your model than my other two?
It's a 2007. Your truck should be very similar to this if it's a 4x4.
Do you have a video on changing oil cooler lines mine is starting to leak its a 12 silverado ltz 5.3 vortec
Paul, I have an oil cooler line video on a 4.8 chevy express van. It should be somewhat similar to what you will be dealing with.
Damn all that work and you put that crack flex plate back in 😂
Yep. Totally missed that. Although I am AMAZING at fixing cars, we all make mistakes. This was a flawless job minus the flex plate. Thanks for watching. BTW, I will be replacing the flex plate soon and showing the progress of this job a year and a half later.
@@TerenceDIY that's for sure good job though
I just subscribed based on your professionalism and quality alone. Icing on the cake was that you clearly know what you doing. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you SO much for your subscription and watching my content. I really appreciate it.
I know how hard it had to be to do this video for the people! New SUB! 💯
Very laborious job but I am put on this earth to help others. Thank you so much for subscribing to my channel. I really appreciate it.
@@TerenceDIY I’m not gonna lie bro, I need to do this on my 07 Escalade but I’ve put so much work into it and things just keep bringing. I think I’m gonna let her go for sale.
@@DJKadilac , aw man. If she runs good, I'd fix it. If you do everything I've done in this video the exact same, it will never leak again. This is an inexpensive fix if you do it yourself and it will save you money rather than buying a new vehicle. Even if you fix it and decide to sell it right after, you can get max dollar for your truck. If you try to sell it with that leak, you can expect someone to try and low ball you. I'm only trying to add some logic to the situation. I'm all about saving money. Once again, thank you so much for watching.
If you were to both the pan and rear cover/crank gaskets what order would you do? I imagine you wouldn't want to have the trans out and the front diff loose at the same time.
I have an amazing detaled oil pan gasket job video on this truck as well. You can definitely do both at the same time. If you have your truck on jack stands like I do in thisi video and you have a couple of jacks, I would start at the front and work my way to the back. Meaning, lowering the front diff as I do in my oil pan video and then pulling that transmission back. That way you can knock both jobs out fairly easily. Let me know if you have ANY more questions. Thanks,
@@TerenceDIY Which is better to do first? Pan or rear plate? I image having the pan in first helps with aligning the crank seal or does it matter? Would one have both off at the same time or RR one at a time?
I am sorry if I came offensive, I am here to HELP. You can ask as many questions as you like. You are correct as far as going with the pan first. That way you can seal that bottom section of the main seal perfectly. Use a decent amount of gasket sealer when mating the rear main seal cover to the oil pan.
@@TerenceDIY Cool. I'm sure lots of opinions get thrown around. Pan first makes senses to me. Sealant on the pan rails and the block/front cover only. Followed up by sealant on the bottom of the rear to get the last of the pan. I just bought an 03 Silverado and am finding all kinds of deferred maintenance. gaskets, u joints, probably transfer case, AC, Rear diff seams sloppy. I don't know of back lash is off or in transfer case. Manual NP261.
Keep me updated after your fix or during. Thanks,
New subscriber, thanks for showing the details. I have an '09 with 6-speed trans that I need to do the same job, rear main and oil pan gasket.
Thank you so much for the subscription Michael. It's not as bad as it seems. Just a weekend job. Good luck with your fix and thanks for watching!
very impressed filming and one handin man im about to tackle this myself thank you for the info
You're very welcome, Donald. Good luck with your job. Thank you SO much for watching.
Torque spec on the 3 flexplate to torque converter bolts.?
I have the book in front of me now and it says, 47 ft lbs. I apologize for not showing that info. Thanks for watching.
@@TerenceDIY all good thank you sir your the best 💯
Nice video replace my 6l80 4 months ago now I have to do this 😂😂😂😂. That's that while your in there lmao. Da well time to pull tranny again. Thinking about putting a higher stall converter inn while it's pulled again
Very helpful, detailed and informative. Appreciate ya doing this...may try it on mine! Thnks
You're very welcome Steve. Thank YOU for watching.
Awesome video. Id let you work on all my vehicles.
Thank you James and thanks for watching.
about to tackle this myself....thx for the video bruh!
You're very welcome.Thank you SO much for watching and good luck doing the job.
Will do bruh....taking my time to make sure it's done right.
How much does this cost to do at a reputable shop? I don't have all them tools to do it myself
The price varies. Some shops will charge upwards of $2000 when in all honesty it's a $1000 job when done correctly.
18 ft-lbs on housing to engine cover bolts? My same dorman cover gasket kit instructions say 22 ft-lbs. Or did you do 18 ft-lbs because of the Rtv you put on.?
Yep, and I use thread locker (medium) on the bolts. This was a flawless job. If followed correctly, you will not see a drop of oil under your vehicle for the life of ownership. Thanks for watching.
@@TerenceDIY Sweet I have threadlocker medium too. I was trying to decide whether to use ultra grey or black but sounds like I'll be going to get that optimum flex instead. I think I'm going to use it on my oil pan gasket as well while I'm in there changing the oil pick-up tube o-ring. since I'm reusing the old oil pan gasket that doesn't look too bad the optimum sounds like a great sealer.
Yep, as long as you use it correctly, it works great.
@@TerenceDIY Aright cool thanks man 🙏
@@TerenceDIYI have one more question so on the optimum flex it says to hand tighten and let dry for One hour before torque spec on bolts. But if I use threadlocker on the bolts before hand tightening will I still be able to tighten them to torque spec after the hour before the threadlocker hardens? Sorry I'm just trying to make sure I do it right.
Thank you sir. I appreciate the insight. Will be having your video for reference when I do my Silverado
Awesome! If you do everything as I did, I guarantee it will never leak again. Thank you SO much for watching.
And I agree to all again outstanding
Thank you SO much and thanks for watching.
Great Vid! does that motor need new mounts?
Yes, it needed a driver side mount. The video is on my channel. Thank you for watching.
Great video I see some great tips for the install I have to do next week
Thank you and good luck with the install.
Excellent video!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Brother I feel your frustration we in the same boat going behind poor maintenance when your tlc car Lindt guy is frustrating
Great Great video
Thank you SO much and thanks for watching.
Where are you locate? How. Much do you charge for a job like this?
Chicago, Illinois. It depends one what all I would be replacing. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the detailed video man I'm doing the transmission in my 07 suburban now this helps so much
You're very welcome Robert. If you follow my detailed steps, I guarantee your seal will be leak free. My truck is and has been bone dry underneath since this fix. Good luck with your job and thank you SO much for watching.
Top notch job and video. Do you have a parts list.
Thank you very much. Here are some parts links...
www.ebay.com/itm/263256735407?fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=169108870&hash=item3d4b52feaf:g:zJMAAOSwAr9ZgFIe&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAKBWdSaWpcACNMM1SqJYj0zKOyGQseoUrql6DXVlv4n0yQQy6c%2FowuioQ2YjFYKeuZCuIyI74dQZwwPwNO2NOpMRXVvof6zBP9JBjskc6MLExdRKeWB7RkJKV9qTLiRVrKUJowBMKy18dFzoom8kJZ1Kln1PK9m7FXywmhE6adEv%2BtVg0hfI%2B1%2F267aNMu2k4vlWpuUbJ4mCzW6brRE94%2BsvmjEilzwNh0OLozwYZyeUDrOHNv1vKQZtPhJ2D5ttfTu8vDDU%2BieVPa6kISChS%2FgSPhGDUThawbX0%2F3nCcd50B7UV4bhEaSG1VP10DvWMDtNqLIqikEiLWVavO9XMARg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwPr2o9Nh
www.ebay.com/itm/115551638013?fits=Year%3A2007%7CModel%3ASuburban+1500%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=1224874956&hash=item1ae76a11fd:g:GjAAAOSwKutiUxzs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsOLW%2BZZfgcWBWih6d5YdK2af6KS9%2Fprz%2FkKQr4Nn%2Blkl1Lumhku6dVKBa%2FU51GKQ1nGUfFJZH%2F8XqoDI7DTmQIt4ly0bbCXoAdh1ccbpeKM2Y5EzuNXlw1GAF7iHi1hKzOxjgyEUhK5n3FenMgXhuuDAJG0G2EW3uzZZ0R%2F8A0tmjWhprGFCgSyzcgqzmttT7JICv0Dmeau9OTjDr%2Fn5MtAtksLe2OOiBzRhCSisTZDn%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7jW_6PTYQ
I see a lot of videos were guys are putting on the rear main gasket dry. I know that the crankshaft seal for sure goes on dry. But as far as the gasket, is it recommended to go on dry? But you recommend coating it in black selant right ? Just want clarification bwvause your the only one or maybe one other guy I seen that coats the rear main cover and gasket in black sealant
Hi Matt, I'm not sure of other videos but I will say, this video is the correct way and probably the MOST detailed. If you follow my video exactly as I did it, you will have a leak free fix. As far as the black sealant, I used it as a dressing to seal the imperfections that the metal gasket or housing may have. When oil gets hot, it will seep through the smallest cracks. This insures that does not happen. Thank you SO much for watching. If you have ANY more questions, please don't hesitate to ask. BTW, I am currently doing an update video on this to show how the rear main seal look well over a year after installed this.
Thank you so much for your reply. I appreciate all your help. I installed today. I noticed when I started tightening bolts that oil was dumping out of the bolt holes. I figured this is normal since I’m torquing things down. Crossing fingers everything is good. Awesome job again on this video, very in depth with every piece of step. Great job!
Is there a way to see if this will leak before bolting stuff up ?
I also wiped down the excess of the gasket maker off the sides around the cover is this ok? I’d appreciate your feedback. Thanks again. God bless u
What holes was oil dumping out of? The cover holes? Also, there is no way to start it until you put everything back. As far as wiping off the excess, it doesn't matter. I didn't wipe it off. In this video, if you look at the flex plate, there's a hairline crack in it. I overlooked that because I was so focused on doing a flawless job with the seal. A subscriber pointed that out months later and I was shocked that I missed it given the fact that I have worked on a gazillion cars since the age of 10 and is great at it. I made a rookie mistake there. I'm only human. Lol. Anyway, I just replaced the flex plate(it started making noise), replaced manifolds, broken bolts (flush in the head) and filmed an update of the seal a year plus later. Four AMAZING videos coming. I am starting the editing now.
So I put gasket maker on the rear cover and the block like you did and I started putting the bolts on the rear cover and as I torqued them down u can see oil coming out when torquing the bolts down. Not a lot just drips. I wiped everything down so going to see if there is anymore coming from bolt holes on the rear cover. I didn’t see anymore after everything was torqued.
So After I torqued everything down I went around the with a cloth and wiped all the excess black gasket maker which was around the rear main cover. Is this ok to do? Just hope it won’t leak from doing this. Next time I’ll just leave it
Look forward to watching them all.
If the bolts were torqued down after you wiped off the excess, you'll be fine.
i was thinking pulling the motor might be faster?
No. I've done them both SOOO many times. Trust me, that was my initial thought when I first did one of these. That's just my opinion. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
I did this job and almost have it back together, but can’t figure out where the second vent hose goes. One goes from the transfer case, then y’s to the top of the transmission then to the top bolt of the bell housing. The other one is connected to it at the bolt on the top of the bell housing, but I have no idea what it plugs into? Have you got an answer for me?
Are you talking about the vent hose that runs from the bell housing along the side of the transmission? I believe there's a vent hose that vents directly to the ground that doesn't plug into anything. I would have to take a look at my truck.
I need too do the same job in my Chevy 2004 3500 6.0 I don’t have idea the cost for this job , tank you for sharing
It's not a bad job. Thank you very much for watching.
@ I didn't say your work was bad
I was referring to you having to do the job or get it done. Meaning it's not a hard job. Thank you.
@ Do you have any idea how much it costs to have this work done by a mechanic? Thanks
Probably between $1000-$1500. You may can find a shop that would do it for $800-$1000.
Thank you!!! OWE YOU A COLD BEER!!!
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much for watching.
Danm it I just saw 👀 your video if had seen it a week before I would have been saving some money by doing it myself ouch great video bro 👍
I wish you would have seen it. I make these videos so that people can save money. Thank you SO much for watching.
Good video man . Like that you did it off your back because that’s what I’m gonna be doin lol 😂
Thanks Brandon. It's really not a bad job. Good luck with your fix and thanks for watching.
I got my rear main replaced on my 07 tahoe and got a fresh oil change and im getting reddish black dots of oil now on passenger side at the corner of bell housing near starter is it normal to have leftover drips after rear main replaced??
Nope. It's funny you mentioned this. When I purchased this truck someone had did the rear main seal prior, but did a crappy job. Well, just as yours. mines was dripping oil on the passsenger side in the starter area just off the corner of the bell housing. I went as far as replacing the oil pan gasket (video on the channel), thinking that would fix my problem, just hoping the seal wasn't leaking. Then it started getting worse. I knew exactly what it was. I ended up doing it the correct way hence, this video and it's been flawless. Please pay close attention to it. It should NOT be dripping anything. Thank you SO much for watching.
Great video and did mine exactly following what you did step by step ..... Everything worked out
Thank you ....
Thank you. I'm glad you were able to get it done using my video. Thank you SO much for watching!
A legit question, is all that silicone really necessary on the cover gasket? I thought they are suppose to be a dry installed gasket(except for seams where cover meets pan).
I have done this job quite a few times and I always do it exactly as I did in this video. The reason I use the gasket maker is because the imperfections in the metal especially over time. When oil heats up, it becomes very thin and can seep through the tiniest cracks or fractures that the metal cover surface may have. Plus, I have dealt with leaks early on with just using it in the seams. This is a fairly big job so that extra protection is added security for leaks. Thank you SOOO much for watching.
@@TerenceDIY right on thanks, i just had to ask because im doing this job currently and the machining marks on the block surface are BAD. think im gonna just silicone it like you did.
I would definitely do it. Once again, thanks for watching.
no lube on the rear main seal?
Absoluetly not. I am not trying to boast but I can say this is one of the best and accurate videos regarding this fix on RUclips. It may be the best. Thank you for watching.
@@TerenceDIY Hey i'm just asking
Just got my rear main seal on! Quick question- is it alright to torque the bolts down before the 1hr mark? Looks like the instructions say to wait an hour before torquing but I torqued them maybe in half that time. Also, I noticed when I was turning the crank to line up the seal, a little bit of oil made its way out from somewhere. Will this be a concern on the final cure of the gasket maker? I know it says it’s oil resistant but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I almost want to try to start the engine without the transmission on to make sure the leak is fully sealed. I would hate to have to ever do this again on this truck.
If you let the gasket maker sit for at least 30 minutes you should be fine. NOTE: It's only insurance for a leak free seal since the gasket does not require any sealant. I would not worry about the little bit of oil, you should be fine. If you did the fix exactly as I show it, you're guaranteed not to leak. My truck has been bone dry underneath since I did this. I am currently doing a video about this.
@@TerenceDIY thank you for the feedback! Hoping mine will be good too 👍
@@ruslankontsimal7072, please let me know how it turned out. Thanks,
@@TerenceDIY almost there Terence! Quick question, were you able to get a torque wrench onto the torque converter bolts? It’s very tight in there and I can’t seem to get mine fit on properly. Saw some other video where a guy just used an impact and snugged them up good. That’s kinda what I did, and I used red loctite as well. Curious how you got yours on! Thanks
@@ruslankontsimal7072 , a ratchet or an impact is fine and you're using that red loctite. I used a breaker bar to snug them down if my memory serves me correct. You're good. Once again, thank you for watching. Let me know how it turns out.
Hey what type of jack is that? I’m a novice mechanic just getting my feet wet
The jack I was using for the transmission is my ATV/ Motorcycle jack. Here are a few links to some jacks I recommend you buy since you are just getting your feet wet (links below). I've been working on cars since the tender age of 10 so if you have ANY questions, my brain is packed with knowledge and experience.
www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-70262.html
www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html
www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-low-profile-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html
Or you can go on Facebook market place and scavenge for better jacks for a great price.
On jack stands what are they 2 Ton? Did you just jacket the front only?
As you can see in the video, the entire truck is jacked up very high on 6 ton jack stands. 2-ton's will work, but I would not trust them. Thanks for watching.
Great video man, if I was seeing correctly, you were able to just slid the transmission and transfer case back to replace the rear main seal??
Absolutely. No need to drop them or detach them. If you follow the video correctly, I gaurantee your truck will never leak again! Thank you SO much for watching.
how long take you to do the hold job
Since I recorded all of the details, it took me two days working 5-6 hours both days. Had I not recorded, I could have done this in one day easily. Thanks for watching.
Great job my man! I'm about to start on mine today. 05 tahoe 5.3l 4x4. I've heard people messing up the tranny pump when reinstalling. How do I avoid that. Thank you!
You have to be really aggressive with that transmission to mess up that pump (I MEAN REALLY AGGRESSIVE). Don't let that bother you. You'll be fine. If you follow the video exactly as I did, you will have a flawless job and guaranteed leak free. Thank you SOOO much for watching I really appreciate it.
So I do not have that type of jack how else would I do it without taking Trans all the way out
You can use a standard hydraulic jack with the exact boards that I used, just make sure they are centered. I would have done this just as well with a regular 3 ton hydraulic jack. Thanks,
Very detailed craftsmanship
I have to do this same Job on my 05 suburban How much did you spend altogether on the replacement parts
Here are some parts links
www.ebay.com/itm/263256735407?fits=Year%3A2010%7CModel%3ASuburban+1500%7CMake%3AChevrolet&epid=169108870&hash=item3d4b52feaf:g:zJMAAOSwAr9ZgFIe&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAFT6PaXhi%2F2Mb9%2BT1b6GXK3jPb1hUaowwkgktA1nh%2FrYIjw0j2yY6k1VmnMmiK6FfptWn%2BgdWiqKf5dGCcbnqELLNxCDXuR0pRlSVBhwqW34owUj2OPwbxQ8MTzQznKN1szZ7%2F8Q62SY6pOOvkGXN61u71k8VxEEcEodXgw9%2FZKgIOz82pTBZpL7cQnYk3cn0%2B1Jh%2Bxe4AL44KzLet2ehEEvJ3t%2F7ChmYi7VzI8OEt5A5k1sGuyw5bpQNYEZRwtfAt7FTIoQ8Om%2BnVQ%2BmAEGixMzmlKKkDEgZPjbbaAtpt3eT%2Fzc1%2Bwh3N5ymiXmox160IIIqaJF0Pa28Z%2BoRmkJsVo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsPux1JVj
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-optimum-easy-disassembly-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-oz-27037/11691103-p?product_channel=local&store=6923&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6923&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s7QnPjGh36Un3JcbkjQdT_WEt663KOdtIGxjk_TiizNMOUNmCpe8xBoC5eEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
www.amazon.com/Permatex-25210-Strength-Removable-ThreadLocker/dp/B07R6B87S5/ref=asc_df_B07R6B87S5/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=365910377250&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8238953337258010880&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021629&hvtargid=pla-784113504414&mcid=5de48bf748ff304a8a5bc3a87d91215a&ref=&adgrpid=79954179287&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s5Df2r7EKw9F9dEUYIzkyoYPS62t5UJZjniCgvMEuXpbKWAgB7ZxAhoCUHwQAvD_BwE&th=1
www.partsgeek.com/8gzkfpg-gmc-yukon-xl-1500-exhaust-gasket.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+GMC+Yukon+XL+1500+Exhaust+Gasket+Walker+Converter+Inlet+(Left)+00-14+GMC+Exhaust+Gasket+2001+2008&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s1Z5Qu8XH_wirmhSI-D3AQ724CNO84zhTuUNPKh7G77s5sERJIw9aBoCpUIQAvD_BwE
www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-MaxLife-Multi-Vehicle-Full-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-ATF-1-GA/15125768?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4049&adid=2222222227715125768_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9021629&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15125768&wl13=4049&veh=sem_LIA&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=2222222223715125768_117755028669_12420145346&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9021629&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15125768&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8s7-WLQUydhG4Nw48ERk5siqjUQkebh2M53O_BC5xRAKIJhaB7uqJjBoCP-IQAvD_BwE
I got my truck a year ago started to think i had a lemon with the stuff i was finding but now i realize i got the whole lemon tree lol no heat in the rear, no AC at all quarter panels are rotting off rear bumper disintegrate when you poke it the abs modulator stopped working a week after i got it, there some airbag sensor is shot now power steering is going on the right side step sides are starting to fall off. Omg ....Have you done the abs modulator that's under the driver seat out side the truck? If so have you done a video for that and if so how complicated was it that's all for now.
I have not done an ABS modulator video yet. I am pretty sure I will do one soon. Thanks again for watching.
Awesome looks liked I did it😊
Hey man new to your channel this is a great video , I have the same problem where are u located at , I just don't have time to do it myself..
I'm in Chicago.
I was thinking about a job like this what’s the going price or what would you recommend me changing? Thanks a lot
If you tackle this job, please follow this video and replace ONLY the things that I changed. If you do exactly as I did in the video, the job will be flawless. I also have an update video dropping within the next week or so. Thank you SO much for watching.
Also, if you're going to a shop, they are going to try and charge you a bag, upwards of $1500 or more and on the low end a $1000. Be careful for low priced mechanics. This job entails lots of labor and needs to be done correctly otherwise you'll find yourself having to get it done over (I have seen this many times). Thanks again for watching.
Im in the process of my first rear main seal replacement and noticed that u smeared the gasket maker on both surfaces where the instructions call for a bead on just one surface. Does that make a difference?
This is the way that I do it. If you decide to do it the way that I did in the video, you will have a flawless leak free job that will last the life of the vehicle. I probably have the only video on RUclips showing this, and this detailed, but this was on a Chevy bulletin years back that I read. I've done this job many times with flawless results. I would not do it any other way. You can do it either way, but I'll let you decide. NOTE: If you do choose to go the route that I did, please by the exact gasket maker that I used. Thank you SO much for watching.
Holly crap u covered all details, great video and u just scored a new subscriber
Thank you SO much Eduardo I really appreciate it.
"Holly" crap!? At least it wasn't holy crap.
That oil barbell plug has a upgrade to aluminum
You are correct, but I would NEVER install one unless I was building a performance engine. It's a waste of money. The OEM stock one is much better for the standard block. Thanks for watching!
Hello Terence....would this be the same steps for a 2011 Suburban Z71? and by the why good job on your Suburban....
Hi David, this should be the exact steps for you truck. My suburban is the 2007-2014 model. Thank you SO much for watching!
in 30:30 you can see where that bell housing was cracked
Yep, and I mention it. Thanks for watching.
@@TerenceDIY i watched it like 20 times cause i had to do this to my brother in law's 2008 suburban. Most detailed video i could find. Thank you for making it.
Thank you very much Jay. I really appreciate you watching my content.
ADVICE ALERT FOR EXHAUST BOLTS: If you have access to one, use an AIR HAMMER! My story - I was able to get two nuts off on the passenger side with heat and penetrating fluid. There was one nut that started to get rounded (I might have kickstarted that process by initially using a 12 point wrench - USE A 6 POINT!). Anyways, it got worse and worse and just rounded completely. Took me a few days of thought and relaxation (this is my personal vehicle that I'm not in a rush to get back on the road). I saw there was a chisel method on RUclips to remove rounded/rusted nuts; I remembered I had an air hammer somewhere with chisel attachments (I believe this was actually a cheap Harbor Freight unit I had). Anyways, I had to sharpen the tip a few times, but I got the nut off! Thankfully for me, the nut I had rounded was actually quite visible in the wheel well with the fender liner removed. It almost seems as though I didn't chisel all the way through, but the vibration of the tool actually knocked the nut loose. I then used a combination of pliers and more air hammering and finally took the nut off! I might have to run a tap on that stud to reuse it but that's a totally acceptable tradeoff for me. Same on the driver side! Literally, same situation - the brake lines were almost in the way but I worked around them. One of my studs on the driver side snapped off (might take the header/exhaust manifold off and extract it and put a new one in). And then the other last nut I had wasn't rounded, but stubborn. I didn't want to risk rounding it as well, so I gently used the air hammer, heat, and WD40 (ran out of penetrating fluid) to help knock the nut loose. Lo and behold, I might've chiseled only 1-2mm into the nut and it actually knocked it a bit loose, went underneath with my impact gun and swivel socket - nut came right off! Also, it helps to support the pipe underneath with some sort of jack or something (position it so it doesn't get in the way). This will release some of the tension on that nut and could help loosen/remove it! Now, onto the next steps! Best of luck to all!
Thanks for sharing that information.
Bruh I'm also replacing my oil pump should I prime the oil pump after everything is assembled?
That would be a good idea (I would). Thanks for watching!