This is a damn good video brother. Thank you for taking the time. It’s literally the perfect instructional video for 5.3 rear main seals. Every time anyone asks, I’ll send them a link to this. Hell ya man!
Finally a mechanic who takes pride in his work and a customers vehical. That's the way I do my work. I've seen too many guys toss all the hardware in one box the play the guessing game. Nice job dude.
That was very good. I wish you lived in my city. I got 3 estimates today on changing my rear main seal they were $460, $65o & $700. 96 Chevy 4X4. I don't feel like any of them would do as good as you did. One of them also said they would charge me $350 to change a Actuator on my 4 wheel drive. It is so hard to find a honest mechanic like you.
Nicely done. For me, it helps that you take a little extra time on some steps because I often need to wrap my head around what you are sayin', where the part or tool really is and then I'm ready for the next step. Both part 1 & part 2 vids were good. I also found that you are easy to listen to. That is a big part of the process of understanding - really.
dude, you're so chill and you explain things so easy. This is a great video thanks for taking the time and uploading it for all the whole mechanics out there. Well done sir.
Awesome video. For anyone wondering, the rear cover bolt torque specs are 18 lb-ft, and the two long 10mm bolt attaching the oil pan to the rear cover get 106 lbs-in. The bellhousing bolts get 37 lb-ft.
Just writing what everyone is saying already. Very good video, detailed and step by step. When I did my searching I thought I was gonna watch 3-5 videos to make up just one list of procedures but you practically cover them all. Now you have one more follower. Thank you. ✌
Thank you. Im doing the same job on the same truck today . Starting in . 5 hours . I would suggest replacing the input shaft on the transmission as well. Thank you
Sir! This is the best video on RUclips! Period... My wife's Avalanche needs the rear main seal replaced, I tried all the other methods, and my. Mech. Messed me around really bad bye using that and charging me for the real thing! $1300.00. I was born at night but not last night! That's What happens when you put your trust and faith in a mech. No one gets my faith no longer except Jesus Christ! But your video is out of this world exact and precise, and precision and so clean! How could you do it any better! "PERFECT" thank you very much Sir...and I am Subscribing...
Yes,I replaced my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engines rear main oil seal back in 2016 & it's still sealing good,the black FelPro oil seal is 10mm thick whereas the original olive coloured seal was 13mm thick so I had to be careful how far I pressed it in. I made sure it was fitted flush when fitting it on the workbench as I reused the old seal plate,I bought the FelPro rear main oil seal & gasket kit who make them for GM so they are the same as OEM. Note that the seal must be fitted DRY as it's a teflon seal,no oil or grease must be used on the seal lip or journal,I cleaned up the journal with acetone & a plastic scourer (green Scotchbrite pad) so I didn't use sandpaper of any sort. I ran a bead of silicone sealant across the top plate & in the corners then loosely fitted the 8mm bolts,I then rotated the engine twice to seat the oil seal then torqued them up to spec's. I just hand tightened the 2 long bolts. It looks like the front has a leak as well in the video,I replaced the front timing cover gasket & seal when I was doing a hydraulic lifter change in 2018 as the gasket was leaking,I also replaced the oil pan gasket as well so I've resealed the whole engine,it doesn't leak a drop of oil now !
I got good info from your vidio...HOWEVER, when you got to the point of explain the bell housing, you mentioned that there are two (2) bolts and your camera pointed at the flywheel but just that fast you quickly went to talking about dropping the starter and moved on, i really wish you would have put just a few more seconds with the camera on that subject of boltss on bell housing that need to come off and showed us the bolts, where there located, how to get to them so that i would have been clear on what yo look for when i start on my truck... anyway, Other then that your 2 part vidio was one of the better ones I've seen/watched in terms of being clear, detailed and good step by step instructions. I appreciate the time it took you to put it together for us viewers. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. You correctly did NOT add the long bottom bolts before putting the rear plate on. This is very important for ensuring that the seal doesn't get pulled down by the long bolts. Note: Disconnect the battery before unbolting the starter. Failure to do this will usually result in large sparks and the potential for welding.
GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU! Without going through all of the comments here...I'm not sure if anyone has answered the issue with the bolts on the main seal plate. If you compare the old plate at around 5:40, and the new plate at around 13:10...you will see the reason you need to use the new 'shorter' bolts. The new plate has an inset where the bolts are. I would assume that torque specs must be precise so as to not damage the plate.
GREAT VID. There's about every last one of the 5.3 GMACs - 5 BAZILLION - leaking on the road waiting for you now get busy... LOL And this is why you DONT drive fast in light rains and until a deluge has cleared the road.... Prob takes that gasket 2 mins to get wet on startup, maybe never it you just crank and idle. Kind makes my want to slam on brakes every time I back out. LOL
Thank You for you for explaining the process! I’m having a shop do mine and this gave me an idea of what they have to do. Hope mine takes apart easy for them
You are easy to listen to. Sometimes the volume faded a bit. You spelled it out well; I'm ready to do one now. Some things I wondered about: 1. Putting some RTV on the pan gasket (and some oil on the seal plate so it will come apart later) so theres no chance of leakage there. 2. Snug up the long pan bolts before torquing the plate bolts so the plate will be sure to draw together and seal with the pan gasket. 3. I saw a neat plate alignment tool on youtube. I will put the link in my next reply. 4. It would be neat to wipe down the mess under there so you can see if it seeps in the future. Thanks again.
Super job! Glad I watched it. I almost ended up with this job in my driveway, but my friend decided to take it to a professional at $1,300.00 dollars. Thanks for sharing Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I gotta do this job on my 5.7L Tahoe. Not looking forward to it. Was thinking of pulling the engine rather than the transmission. That would also give easy access to front main and oil pan gasket. With the 4x4 ya gotta pull the front differential to get the clearance to remove the oil pan to change that gasket but If I just pull the engine I can get all my major seals in one go with full access. My rear main is the only one of the 3 that is currently leaking but the truck is 22 years old so I figure it won't be long before the others start , might as well get them all at the same time.
This is a great video..thnx! I noticed this video was posted 6 yrs. ago..my response is coming to you in May 2024..I see that some of the cost estimates of getting this job done are from $600.00- $1,000.00! I got an estimate on May 2, 2024 at My local Chevy dealer for $2,250.00 to do the job..is this a reasonable price taking into account the time we have moved forward?
A1 Video Parts 1 & 2! Thanks for this helpful information. I'm getting ready to rebuild my transmission myself but the engine rear seal is leaking. So i'll be replacing the seal. Thanks for sharing
Awsome videos(part 1&2). I wanted to share some info with you since I noticed you didn’t unplug the neutral safety switch plugs because you said they were stuck. FYI they use a special adhesive and you HAVE to use a heat gun on each plug to remove them. They come out very easy once you heat each socket enough. Other than that, really great video! Thanks for sharing!!! Subscribed!!
Rear main seal plate torque specs for your vid great vid by the way straight forward and to the point just the way it should be man good job keep up the great work 👌👊
I was told by a well known mechanic that whenever you replace rear main seal, replace the oil pan gasket as well. You have it mostly all torn down anyway, is that correct?
I just did a job like this. first time! I'm a green horn! Did not know wtf I was doing! I put gasket sealer across this whole bottom of that plate. Was that bad? Did I fuck up?
I haven't done this on any vehicle (I am paying to have one done on a newer Tahoe right now) but still I gotta ask, isn't there a seal between the large metal ring that the harmonic balancer was bolted to and teh engine block, where oil inside the engine is held in, as opposed to this large plate with pressed in seal which appears to seal around the metal block/ring ouside the engine or is there pressurised or at least seeped out oil between teh engine block and the plate that you replaced with the new parts? in other words, I expected oil to be leaking or even poring out when you removed what you're calling the Rear main Seal where there is exceedingly little oil to even seal in.
I watched part 1 and now 2... Great instructional video on this! I need one replaced in a 08 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter. Where are you located& what is the usual cost for this? I ask bc mechanic shops usual try to screw over women thinking they know nothing about vehicles. I do,but it's been a minute since I helped my Dad & I can't ask him bc he passed away last year. I appreciate it.
Hi sir, good video, especially because you had to remove the transfer case ... im wondering , dont you think 800 grit sand paper on the crankshaft was a bit heavy ?. You must be pressing very lightly, correct?
If money is not an issue and you are already there get the oil pan, oil cooler lines and driverside motor mount done too, ask them to combine some labor, it will be much easier to do them with the transmission down and all your leaks will be fixed at the same time and you can stay out of the shop longer.
I’m rebuilding my 6.0 and today I installed the rear main seal. After I had installed it I noticed the top of the rear main gasket had popped out a little, so I used a screwdriver and taped it back in. Do you think it will be ok?
Did you take starter off, or no? Ive a 03 1500 5.3 Vortex Suburban.,doing this. Pulling Bell Housing away now...using 2 jacks and seems possibly stuck..
Very informative vid, QUESTION, to change my transmission cooler lines from the transmission, do i have to drop the transmission to get to the quick connect on the tranny?
About to tackle on an 02 Escalade. OEM GM Seal cover purchased from from Summit Racing for $63 and comes with the plastic alignment tool. This video is great though. Has given me hope!
nice video..thinking of taking on the project myself..not sure yet..what does a job like this run if i were to take it to a shop ..price wise more or less any idea?
i just did this same job its a pain in the ass i left the transfer case connected and dropped the front of the trans down and replaced it that way but still its a pain to do just cause it is 4x4
@@regularguyfixes3142 i just finished this job not a huge difference... hardest part was getting to the top tranny bolts, this was a great guide though. Would be a LOT easier with a lift. Also do your research, this didnt fix my problem because i didnt follow the TSB about the rear main seal cover plate leaking... cake on the RTV to both cover and engine, let it soak into the pores of the metal, then scrape off excess and assemble. Also i recomend buying the OEM verson. Dorman has a bad wrap for not working... i think it made mine worse!
@@danpregler5314 did you have oil pressure problem to?My oil pressure drops to 20-25 at idle just noticed the small dripping from back of motor not sure if its the sencer thats leaking
@@danpregler5314 Thank you for answering so fast.Yea its like 35 to 40 psi at 50mph if I get on it it will go up to 60 psi on the high way.No knocking but after this polar frez it was -22 in chicago right after that is when it started doing this.
U can get it from the top with a wrench or another trick is to use a socket wrench and 2 foot extension under the truck above the tranns.also if you drop both crossmembers you have all the room in the world,I would do motor mounts since your there. Giggity giggity
I needed to see this. I was considering taking my truck to a shop to get this done but I have all the tools and the know how, it was more of just not feeling like doing all this. It doesn’t seem too bad though, I might just rent a car for a couple days while I work on it
Best explanatory video on RUclips! I'm a pretty good shade tree mech. Myself, so I'm going todo it for my wife! Or should I say for my life.lol. "My Dad always said, nothing beats a trial but a failure"
Two more things, the seal needs to be put on dry no oil applied. This is according to gm specs on installing and two. Anyone attempting to do this, do not buy the cheap plate and kit off of eBay 7 out of ten times the clearances and specifications are not right. This is a lot of work to hav to do multiple times. I would highly recommend going with a feloro gasket and seal. Manufactured here in the United States with proper specifications and warranties.
I have a question when you go to tighten the rear main seal housing do you snug the long ones down first or the shorts ones. My theory would be if you tighten the short ones all the way, then put the long ones in it wouldn't tighten down very tight on the oil pan, I also wonder if you tighten the long ones all the way will it pull the housing to far down where the main seal will not be centered on the crank. I would like your thoughts and what route you take when tightening the housing. Thanks man and great videos.
If you use an alignment tool for the main seal the seal will be perfectly centered ... without using the tool just no way to eyeball it...thus premature wear and early leakage
im in north Carolina , Winston Salem Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Me and mine brother ando mine dad we were looking at your vid and know we know how to do that fore showing ous thanks we like the vid and we going do it next week
Great video man. Really appreciate all the time spent on producing a video to help people out. You covered just about every step of the procedure. One question though, what's the cost in labor for a rear main seal on this particular vehicle?
Question: was the front seal leaking badly as well? When you should the socket & ratchet on the front of the motor the whole underside is covered in oil.
that is a different video, The customer was advised of the front leak, however the front leak is more of a seepage leak on this particular car. the rear seal had a constant drip that was increasing in flow rate as time passed
The wire plugs are glued in. Heat gun will separate.Did you brace the engine after you lowered it? Or let it rest against the firewall. I plan to use slot o found in this video but plan to take care not to crush anything important at the top rear of the engine as I lower it and will try to brace it before sliding the tyranny weight off the engine so it doesn't just drop and crush things like wires and components behind the engine
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a damn good video brother. Thank you for taking the time. It’s literally the perfect instructional video for 5.3 rear main seals. Every time anyone asks, I’ll send them a link to this. Hell ya man!
Thank you
Artistry Photography how long does this job takes also if done by my mechanic how can I be sure the job was done right
Artistry Photography...Great video very informative...I’m not even a mechanic and I’m ready to tackle a rear main seal job...🔧🔧🔧
Finally a mechanic who takes pride in his work and a customers vehical. That's the way I do my work. I've seen too many guys toss all the hardware in one box the play the guessing game. Nice job dude.
Thank you, please like, share, and subscribe, also check out my other channel Salem Taxi on RUclips
That was very good. I wish you lived in my city. I got 3 estimates today on changing my rear main seal they were $460, $65o & $700. 96 Chevy 4X4. I don't feel like any of them would do as good as you did. One of them also said they would charge me $350 to change a Actuator on my 4 wheel drive. It is so hard to find a honest mechanic like you.
please subscribe, and share and watch the rest of the series thanks
This is my vehicle in the video. It's running GREAT at a great price...many thanks
How much was the cost? My Yukon started to leak
$740 bruh...
what year tahoe?
what year tahoe?
dustinpool '03
Nicely done. For me, it helps that you take a little extra time on some steps because I often need to wrap my head around what you are sayin', where the part or tool really is and then I'm ready for the next step. Both part 1 & part 2 vids were good. I also found that you are easy to listen to. That is a big part of the process of understanding - really.
Glad it was helpful!
dude, you're so chill and you explain things so easy. This is a great video thanks for taking the time and uploading it for all the whole mechanics out there. Well done sir.
Awesome video. For anyone wondering, the rear cover bolt torque specs are 18 lb-ft, and the two long 10mm bolt attaching the oil pan to the rear cover get 106 lbs-in. The bellhousing bolts get 37 lb-ft.
thank you...i need that info.. to do that process
thanks bro....i will subscribe to your channel...
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Just writing what everyone is saying already. Very good video, detailed and step by step. When I did my searching I thought I was gonna watch 3-5 videos to make up just one list of procedures but you practically cover them all. Now you have one more follower. Thank you. ✌
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
My rear main seal just went on my 2011 gmc 1500 ligit 10 mins ago. Ur vids give me hope in fixing it
Thank you. Im doing the same job on the same truck today . Starting in . 5 hours . I would suggest replacing the input shaft on the transmission as well. Thank you
Sir! This is the best video on RUclips! Period... My wife's Avalanche needs the rear main seal replaced, I tried all the other methods, and my. Mech. Messed me around really bad bye using that and charging me for the real thing! $1300.00. I was born at night but not last night! That's What happens when you put your trust and faith in a mech. No one gets my faith no longer except Jesus Christ! But your video is out of this world exact and precise, and precision and so clean! How could you do it any better! "PERFECT" thank you very much Sir...and I am Subscribing...
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Great Video thanks for taking the extra steps in showing how to and warnings.
Yes,I replaced my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engines rear main oil seal back in 2016 & it's still sealing good,the black FelPro oil seal is 10mm thick whereas the original olive coloured seal was 13mm thick so I had to be careful how far I pressed it in.
I made sure it was fitted flush when fitting it on the workbench as I reused the old seal plate,I bought the FelPro rear main oil seal & gasket kit who make them for GM so they are the same as OEM.
Note that the seal must be fitted DRY as it's a teflon seal,no oil or grease must be used on the seal lip or journal,I cleaned up the journal with acetone & a plastic scourer (green Scotchbrite pad) so I didn't use sandpaper of any sort.
I ran a bead of silicone sealant across the top plate & in the corners then loosely fitted the 8mm bolts,I then rotated the engine twice to seat the oil seal then torqued them up to spec's.
I just hand tightened the 2 long bolts.
It looks like the front has a leak as well in the video,I replaced the front timing cover gasket & seal when I was doing a hydraulic lifter change in 2018 as the gasket was leaking,I also replaced the oil pan gasket as well so I've resealed the whole engine,it doesn't leak a drop of oil now !
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
I got good info from your vidio...HOWEVER, when you got to the point of explain the bell housing, you mentioned that there are two (2) bolts and your camera pointed at the flywheel but just that fast you quickly went to talking about dropping the starter and moved on, i really wish you would have put just a few more seconds with the camera on that subject of boltss on bell housing that need to come off and showed us the bolts, where there located, how to get to them so that i would have been clear on what yo look for when i start on my truck... anyway,
Other then that your 2 part vidio was one of the better ones I've seen/watched in terms of being clear, detailed and good step by step instructions. I appreciate the time it took you to put it together for us viewers. Thanks.
Done so many of these I can't fathom it. But nothing less than perfection every time. Doing one now
How much does this cost in parts?
@@donjackson3374 only around 45-55 for the seal/ gasket
Great video. Thanks. You correctly did NOT add the long bottom bolts before putting the rear plate on. This is very important for ensuring that the seal doesn't get pulled down by the long bolts.
Note: Disconnect the battery before unbolting the starter. Failure to do this will usually result in large sparks and the potential for welding.
Great tip!
Thanks for the visit please subscribe
Awesome video thank you for sharing!!! you have an amazing way of explaining things!!! I wish you the best!!
GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU! Without going through all of the comments here...I'm not sure if anyone has answered the issue with the bolts on the main seal plate. If you compare the old plate at around 5:40, and the new plate at around 13:10...you will see the reason you need to use the new 'shorter' bolts. The new plate has an inset where the bolts are. I would assume that torque specs must be precise so as to not damage the plate.
really enjoyed the video. Made thing easy to under stand the procedure after watching. Thanks Brother
New girl to the mechanic world but great video! Thanks sir!
GREAT VID. There's about every last one of the 5.3 GMACs - 5 BAZILLION - leaking on the road waiting for you now get busy... LOL And this is why you DONT drive fast in light rains and until a deluge has cleared the road.... Prob takes that gasket 2 mins to get wet on startup, maybe never it you just crank and idle. Kind makes my want to slam on brakes every time I back out. LOL
Thank You for you for explaining the process! I’m having a shop do mine and this gave me an idea of what they have to do. Hope mine takes apart easy for them
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
You are easy to listen to. Sometimes the volume faded a bit. You spelled it out well; I'm ready to do one now.
Some things I wondered about: 1. Putting some RTV on the pan gasket (and some oil on the seal plate so it will come apart later) so theres no chance of leakage there.
2. Snug up the long pan bolts before torquing the plate bolts so the plate will be sure to draw together and seal with the pan gasket.
3. I saw a neat plate alignment tool on youtube. I will put the link in my next reply.
4. It would be neat to wipe down the mess under there so you can see if it seeps in the future.
Thanks again.
You're mighty fine mechanic keep it up buddy good job
Super job! Glad I watched it. I almost ended up with this job in my driveway, but my friend decided to take it to a professional at $1,300.00 dollars. Thanks for sharing Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Awesome and informative, one question is Did you have to torque the plate after installing the new seal?
That is a lot of hard work but i think you did a great job.
I gotta do this job on my 5.7L Tahoe. Not looking forward to it. Was thinking of pulling the engine rather than the transmission. That would also give easy access to front main and oil pan gasket. With the 4x4 ya gotta pull the front differential to get the clearance to remove the oil pan to change that gasket but If I just pull the engine I can get all my major seals in one go with full access. My rear main is the only one of the 3 that is currently leaking but the truck is 22 years old so I figure it won't be long before the others start , might as well get them all at the same time.
Very nice video. Helps me out a lot on my replacement of the rear main. Thanks
great video man. i have to do this on my 03 Pathfinder so there will be some differences but this gives me a great idea of the steps it’ll take!
thanks please like share and subscribe
Good video get ready to do mine but do you have to remove the transfer case from the trans or can you just remove it and the trans at same time?
This is a great video..thnx! I noticed this video was posted 6 yrs. ago..my response is coming to you in May 2024..I see that some of the cost estimates of getting this job done are from $600.00- $1,000.00! I got an estimate on May 2, 2024 at My local Chevy dealer for $2,250.00 to do the job..is this a reasonable price taking into account the time we have moved forward?
Thank you very much for putting this out here! I think you missed your calling as a teacher. lol
You are so welcome! please subscribe, and share and watch the rest of the series thanks
A1 Video Parts 1 & 2! Thanks for this helpful information. I'm getting ready to rebuild my transmission myself but the engine rear seal is leaking. So i'll be replacing the seal. Thanks for sharing
Awsome videos(part 1&2). I wanted to share some info with you since I noticed you didn’t unplug the neutral safety switch plugs because you said they were stuck. FYI they use a special adhesive and you HAVE to use a heat gun on each plug to remove them. They come out very easy once you heat each socket enough. Other than that, really great video! Thanks for sharing!!! Subscribed!!
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Rear main seal plate torque specs for your vid great vid by the way straight forward and to the point just the way it should be man good job keep up the great work 👌👊
I would put silicone in-between oil pan and the cover to make sure sealing since a pretty big job. Good job other wise !
Great idea
I was told by a well known mechanic that whenever you replace rear main seal, replace the oil pan gasket as well. You have it mostly all torn down anyway, is that correct?
depends on the design and the difficulty of the job
I just did a job like this. first time! I'm a green horn! Did not know wtf I was doing! I put gasket sealer across this whole bottom of that plate. Was that bad? Did I fuck up?
How do i know if rhe transmission shop really replaced my rear main seal?? Desperate to stop this oil leak! Thank you!!
is it still leaking?
I haven't done this on any vehicle (I am paying to have one done on a newer Tahoe right now) but still I gotta ask, isn't there a seal between the large metal ring that the harmonic balancer was bolted to and teh engine block, where oil inside the engine is held in, as opposed to this large plate with pressed in seal which appears to seal around the metal block/ring ouside the engine or is there pressurised or at least seeped out oil between teh engine block and the plate that you replaced with the new parts? in other words, I expected oil to be leaking or even poring out when you removed what you're calling the Rear main Seal where there is exceedingly little oil to even seal in.
Thanks bro!!! you a beast!! I have to try and do same job to my tahoe 5.3 4x4 no lift just 4 jacks . Wish me luck
Ouch! Changed a trans that way in my 4x4 03 Sierra. I'll pay someone next time. Lol. How'd it go for you?
No lift but truck sits high, I'm going for it!
Brandon Cadillac how was it??
fucked up
Lezz Love how was so?
The two long bolts put them at the end back ?
put them where they came from.
Can this job be completed at the house using jack stands, what’s the difficulty level if doing that way?
No more videos????? Loving these videos.
im back more to come
Thanks for watching , please like, share, and subscribe
also check my other channel salem taxi
I watched part 1 and now 2... Great instructional video on this! I need one replaced in a 08 Yukon Denali 6.2 liter. Where are you located& what is the usual cost for this? I ask bc mechanic shops usual try to screw over women thinking they know nothing about vehicles. I do,but it's been a minute since I helped my Dad & I can't ask him bc he passed away last year. I appreciate it.
Hi sir, good video, especially because you had to remove the transfer case ...
im wondering , dont you think 800 grit sand paper on the crankshaft was a bit heavy ?. You must be pressing very lightly, correct?
AWESOME VIDEO! PART ONE AND TWO!!! yall may have saved me a cold G lol
Glad you enjoyed please subscribe, and share and watch the rest of the series thanks
@@crazysexycool180 , Hell Ya Fam!! Sending it to ma buddy right now!!
God bless y'all
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do it! 🙏
I have a 2012 Chevrolet silverado 5.3 I need this work done can you help me or guide me?
How much is for this kind of big job?
Great video, very detailed and easy to understand
If money is not an issue and you are already there get the oil pan, oil cooler lines and driverside motor mount done too, ask them to combine some labor, it will be much easier to do them with the transmission down and all your leaks will be fixed at the same time and you can stay out of the shop longer.
Great point! please subscribe, and share and watch the rest of the series thanks
If you don't mind me asking what's the price for that job?
Thanks! bout to DIY this. Do the transmission lines need to be disconnected?
I’m rebuilding my 6.0 and today I installed the rear main seal. After I had installed it I noticed the top of the rear main gasket had popped out a little, so I used a screwdriver and taped it back in. Do you think it will be ok?
Did it leak?
Did you take starter off, or no?
Ive a 03 1500 5.3 Vortex Suburban.,doing this. Pulling Bell Housing away now...using 2 jacks and seems possibly stuck..
Very informative vid, QUESTION, to change my transmission cooler lines from the transmission, do i have to drop the transmission
to get to the quick connect on the tranny?
ekon x Did your power steering arm eat a hole in your 5.3
Awesome instructional video. Many thanks to you! Who sales the real seal kits?
About to tackle on an 02 Escalade. OEM GM Seal cover purchased from from Summit Racing for $63 and comes with the plastic alignment tool. This video is great though. Has given me hope!
nice video..thinking of taking on the project myself..not sure yet..what does a job like this run if i were to take it to a shop ..price wise more or less any idea?
Thank you, please like, share, and subscribe, also check out my other channel Salem Taxi on RUclips
Excellent videos. I hope I never have to do this. I’m cheap/frugal but doing this on my back, will have me poisoned!
Muy explicito=very explicit. Just what i needed. Thank you Brother. Saludos from phoenix.👌🖖
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
i just did this same job its a pain in the ass i left the transfer case connected and dropped the front of the trans down and replaced it that way but still its a pain to do just cause it is 4x4
Well spoken gentlemen great instructor on showing work haven t seen better straight to the job no bull shitting around 👍
Any idea if this job is significantly different on a 6.2? L92 Engine? (2007 Escalade ESV)
Same question 6.2 Denali
@@regularguyfixes3142 i just finished this job not a huge difference... hardest part was getting to the top tranny bolts, this was a great guide though. Would be a LOT easier with a lift. Also do your research, this didnt fix my problem because i didnt follow the TSB about the rear main seal cover plate leaking... cake on the RTV to both cover and engine, let it soak into the pores of the metal, then scrape off excess and assemble. Also i recomend buying the OEM verson. Dorman has a bad wrap for not working... i think it made mine worse!
@@danpregler5314 did you have oil pressure problem to?My oil pressure drops to 20-25 at idle just noticed the small dripping from back of motor not sure if its the sencer thats leaking
@@southside1975 typically ur O.P. drops at idle regardless... seems normal. I dont have a gauge on my car. Dumb cadillacs...
@@danpregler5314 Thank you for answering so fast.Yea its like 35 to 40 psi at 50mph if I get on it it will go up to 60 psi on the high way.No knocking but after this polar frez it was -22 in chicago right after that is when it started doing this.
How did u get the top tranmission bolts out and did u use
U can get it from the top with a wrench or another trick is to use a socket wrench and 2 foot extension under the truck above the tranns.also if you drop both crossmembers you have all the room in the world,I would do motor mounts since your there. Giggity giggity
good description..keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Would this be similar to an Escalade since it's awd and not 4x4??
same thing
I needed to see this. I was considering taking my truck to a shop to get this done but I have all the tools and the know how, it was more of just not feeling like doing all this. It doesn’t seem too bad though, I might just rent a car for a couple days while I work on it
nothing beats Failure but a Try. Go for it. save your truck and save yourself some money.
Best explanatory video on RUclips! I'm a pretty good shade tree mech. Myself, so I'm going todo it for my wife! Or should I say for my life.lol. "My Dad always said, nothing beats a trial but a failure"
WHat is the average cost of a repair like this when taking it to a shop?
Too much just use blue devil rear main sealer small bottle 14.99
How many hours ????
How did you remove the cover plate??
Two more things, the seal needs to be put on dry no oil applied. This is according to gm specs on installing and two. Anyone attempting to do this, do not buy the cheap plate and kit off of eBay 7 out of ten times the clearances and specifications are not right. This is a lot of work to hav to do multiple times. I would highly recommend going with a feloro gasket and seal. Manufactured here in the United States with proper specifications and warranties.
What do u torque bolts down to on rear main
I have a question when you go to tighten the rear main seal housing do you snug the long ones down first or the shorts ones. My theory would be if you tighten the short ones all the way, then put the long ones in it wouldn't tighten down very tight on the oil pan, I also wonder if you tighten the long ones all the way will it pull the housing to far down where the main seal will not be centered on the crank. I would like your thoughts and what route you take when tightening the housing. Thanks man and great videos.
If you use an alignment tool for the main seal the seal will be perfectly centered ... without using the tool just no way to eyeball it...thus premature wear and early leakage
Where did you get the main seal from
super vid! does the engine oil need to be drained to replace the rear main seal?
Hey where's your shop located I'm bring my truck there.?
nc
Well done! Nice explanations!! Thank you.
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
Do you need to drop the transmition to do the rear main seal job?
How long did it take
If I had to do this on the ground, would it be easier to remove the engine instead?
if you look at the old plate you can see that it's not recessed and that's why the old bolts were longer
Awesome video! Can’t locate part 1 though.
Outstanding work too bad you are not here in NC i would had you do my vehicle😂
im in north Carolina , Winston Salem
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3:35 use a heat gun they not stuck they have glue
Just mark and unbolt the unit and lay aside.
dude..to late for me i broke those connectors.. i should do some research first...im screw😵
Me and mine brother ando mine dad we were looking at your vid and know we know how to do that fore showing ous thanks we like the vid and we going do it next week
Great video man. Really appreciate all the time spent on producing a video to help people out. You covered just about every step of the procedure. One question though, what's the cost in labor for a rear main seal on this particular vehicle?
How long did this take ?
Great video gonna do mine today after watching your process agian great job
Bro what is the torque on those last bolts…?
This is a outstanding video well done
Thank you please like, share, and subscribe, also please check out my other channel Salem Taxi, on RUclips for more material on a different level.
My only comment is if u went as far as the main seal why would u not go ahead and do the oil pan and pickup tube and replace the gaskets and orings
i was not paid or asked to do all that, no free work.
Thanks for the visit please subscribe
If your that far you should change the dogbone aka barbell too.
Question: was the front seal leaking badly as well? When you should the socket & ratchet on the front of the motor the whole underside is covered in oil.
that is a different video, The customer was advised of the front leak, however the front leak is more of a seepage leak on this particular car. the rear seal had a constant drip that was increasing in flow rate as time passed
The wire plugs are glued in. Heat gun will separate.Did you brace the engine after you lowered it? Or let it rest against the firewall. I plan to use slot o found in this video but plan to take care not to crush anything important at the top rear of the engine as I lower it and will try to brace it before sliding the tyranny weight off the engine so it doesn't just drop and crush things like wires and components behind the engine
Does any one know we're I could find the torque specs?
How much did it cost?
No gaskets or seals required between the cover and oil pan rail???
No just sealant, I only use ultra Gray
I think he only put it in the corners, maybe I'm wrong.. But in every other video they put RTV all the way across the bottom.
what about torque settings?