Wish I found your video before the frustration and research involved infiguring this out myself, lol! I had literally stretched the cheap aluminum 1-bolt POS Fanatec uses to the point that the ends touched and my system was still unplayable due to the disconnect issue. To other viewers with this problem: follow this man's recommendations. He's spot-on. A couple notes: this clamp is constructed with hardened tool-steel vs. the factory-supplied aluminum style. The relevant specs for this clamp are a thickness of approx 15mm and *important* an inside diameter of 30mm. Approx cost via Amazon is $14 US. Lightly lube threads and bottom (seat) portion of heads of bolts before installation to get strong and even Clamping for e. Excellent video! Should be flagged as a must-see video for owners of Fanatec GT DD Pro and similar wheelbases equipped with a clearly inferior 1-bolt aluminum clamp.
Thanks for explaining. Had a moment as my wheel disconnected and I thought my wheel was broken…did this fix and we’re back racing again. Appreciate the vid 👌
Yeah, I spent the first 20 minutes trying to understand what the problem was and thinking I might have to send it in for repair. It’s now been several weeks since I put that collar on and I’ve not had an issue since.
Had the same problem, just fitted the new clamp as per your video, feels much better. My torque wrench is coming Monday but just tightening it by hand it feels a huge improvement and I've done a few laps and seems good. TYVM!
Placed my order for a CSL DD in the weekend and placed another order on Amazon for this two piece collar :D I hope I have the correct dimension for the inner diameter.
Have just taken receipt of a CSL McLaren DD for Xbox and i can tell you i have had multiple disconnections while playing and i know for a fact this is the reason why it's disconnecting because i tightened that shitty clamp down as much as i could to the point where it can not be turned anymore and low and behold it hasn't happened anymore. But i am not happy with that crappy clamp so i am going to purchasing this same clamp that you have here. I also much prefer the 2 bolt clamp option as it's a much more even force. Also thanks for showing you pulling the shaft out i am extremely worried about damaging the USB connector but i know i can do it if you did it. Thanks for the video my friend. Edit as I am from the UK I am not able to purchase the ones in the link but I have purchased pretty much the exact same one from eBay just from a UK seller. Once again thank you
I'm glad you found a comparable clamp! I think the most important part is lining up those slots with the clamp. My two-bolt collar has been on since I put up the video and I've not had a disconnect since.
@@DigitalRelay brilliant thank you again for showing that it can be done easily as long as you line up the shaft again it will be fine. Happy racing my friend
@@DigitalRelay I received the clamp today (UK) and I don't want to jinx it but I haven't had a DC since using it. And also I don't know why but I could feel so much more detail than I could before. I can feel understeer on the car I can also feel when the front wheels are straight coming out of a corner and I can feel the curbs I can feel everything much better. I am hopeful that it keeps it from DC'ing but only time will tell. Thanks again sir
I managed to fix the disconnect problem by tightening the original clamp with a moment key tool so it gets really tight, I think I used 9Nm as a measure. Haven't had any issues after a week of testing but I just ordered a similar aluminium clamp with 2 bolts just to be sure.
That's great! I think using the original clamp can work as you say if you line up the slots, and torque the crap out of the clamp, but I'm glad I went with the two-piece collar clamp. I think it makes it easier to apply more even force. I wish Fanatec would just switch to a two-piece collar clamp for everything.
A nice little update.. My first CSL DD 8Nm (which I described in my comment) burned itself after 2 weeks. I received the RMA'd product (new wheelbase) yesterday and tested it today for 2 hours. Suddenly it disconnected mid-race and after checking the wheelbase, the usb-connector in the QR1 base-side had bent and destroyed. What the fuck is going on.
2 points: Tool steel, NOT aluminum. I re-tightened the cheap aluminum clamp so much and so often it's ends were literally touching! The ONLY way to bend and damage the usb connection is user error/gorilla grip/incorrect alignment when seating shaft. Sorry to say sir, that you were "what the fuck was going on." No offense meant.
Nice video, forgive my ignorance but will this essentially fix the issue of not needing to get a QR2?? Surelt not, i mean the qr2 is mega expensive, will a £10 fix do the same job??
I think the QR2 gives you some other benefits, especially if you have more than one wheel you like to swap. I'm only using the GT DD Pro wheel, so I'm okay with the inferior QR1 lite, at least for now. The two-piece collar clamp seems to let you apply more even force, which does seem to keep the shaft from backing out. It's been months now since I put mine on, and I've been good. I think the real key to this issue is making sure the slots on the wheel base shaft are aligned exactly with the opening on the clamp, whether you use the original U clamp or the upgraded two-piece clamp.
hello, thx for the vid. do i have to buy such a wrench tool or can I do it only with the small one without the nm scale? (If I tighten it as much as I can)
You "can" do it without a torque wrench, but it will difficult to get enough leverage, and impossible to know just how tight you are. For leverage, you can put a pipe, tube, or closed end wrench over the Allen wrench.
@@DigitalRelay Mine disconnected just yesterday, the very following day after getting it. (After a good 5 hours of racing) ... Very frustrating, to say the least -- especially since I don't have a torque wrench on hand :P
Hello, I just upgraded from a Logitech g920 to a Fanatec and im so devastated to have clamping and disconnect issues. I just bought the clamp you linked and hoping it saves me from having to buy the QR2. It's very poor of Fanatec imo. Fingers crossed this works for me so I can race and enjoy games again.
Yeah, that's a real pain in the neck. Whichever clamp you use, make sure you line those slots up according to the diagram so the clamping force applies evenly to the shaft. Also make sure to push the shaft in to close the gap before tightening the clamp. Best of luck!
i hear you as i’ve had issues with fanatec as well… but the qr2 is not gonna be your fix for this (though it does come with the two clamp collar for fitting… if you are using a qr1 i would upgrade to qr2 if i were you… there is no slip when the wheel wants to turn… it just feels a lot better.
That QR looks cheap and weak with the USB C plug in. Fanatec is charging way too much to give people headaches and problems. If you call something a quick release, it should have spring loaded pull backs like the Moza or Logitech Pro wheels.
I applied red loctite to the shaft itself, which seems to have fixed the issue. If I ever have to remove the shaft, I could have an issue but whatever...
If the QR2 comes with a two-piece collar/clamp, then yes, I think it will fix this issue. What's happening now is the standard u-shaped clamp lacks enough force to keep the wheel base shaft in place. The clamp is what's causing this issue. There are other advantages to upgrading to the QR2, but currently I only use the one wheel and didn't see enough value in upgrading from the QR1 lite that came with my base and wheel. Properly installing the Amazon two-piece collar fixed my issue.
That sounds like it would work. I'd much prefer Fanatec try it in their shop and perfect it though. I'd be reluctant to start drilling the carbon or the aluminum as a DIY. So far for me, since installing the two-pice collar clamp, I've not had a disconnect. I've said this before too, but I think getting the slots in the carbon wheel shaft lined up exactly with the opening(s) of the clamp is extremely important.
@DigitalRelay again, I concur and can say I'm around 2 weeks since installing the 2-bolt clamp with zero issues and as others have said, the whole shaft assembly definitely feels stiffer/stronger with noticeably less flex. Bums me out that Fanatec would go cheapo over a $14 part that makes such a significant improvement, both in reliability and over-all "feel."
Hey man… so I just started having this problem… but weird enough my v2 does not disconnect… I barely use this Gt wheel and the pins are exactly the same as the v2… so basically it only disconnects this wheel . Any ideas ?
Maybe the connectors between the two different wheels are slightly off, so one works, and one disconnects? It's hard to say. I would remove the wheel, loosen the clamp, then make sure the opening in the clamp lines up exactly with the slots on the wheel base shaft. Then install the aluminum shaft and push toward the wheel base as you tighten. Maybe inspect the connector on the GT wheel and make sure nothing is bent or pushed in. I hope you figure it out!
Je pensais avoir une solution avant de regarder ta vidéos. Mais malheureusement j’avais fait la même chose avant. J’ai utilisé le collier en deux partie du QR2 et bien serré l’ensemble mais cela ne résout pas le problème. Cela fonctionne un peu et le problème recommence…
Oui j’ai bien fait attention à ça. Mais en cherchant un peu j’ai vu que beaucoup avait résolu le problème simplement en changeant de port USB sur la console. J’ai donc fait ça et cet après midi je n’ai pas eu de soucis pendant plus de 2h 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼 en tout cas merci pour ta vidéos.
Yeah, at the very least, I would loosen the clamp, then make sure you get the slot clamp exactly lined up with the slots on the shaft. Then push the aluminum shaft toward the base as you tighten. Having those slots lined up is super important. I have not had a single disconnect since I went with the two-piece collar clamp. Hopefully, this is your issue. I have also heard some people have had other internal issues, or the internal connection had a defect. Good luck!
@@DigitalRelay seems it worked, removed the shaft, reconnected, tighten the clamp, and seems to be all ok now. the shaft was about half a milimeter off, it seems to be enogh to cause problems
It's still available for me in the US... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020822LA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Maybe search for collar clamp 30mm bore
@@DigitalRelay i dunno man, the wheel slippage from the trash plastic qr1 that comes with this stock is just asking to be replaced. once you do go to qr2 the feel is so much better… there’s no slop when the wheel wants to turn. i’d highly recommend it
Oh man, that's a bummer. Before I tightened the clamp, I pushed the wheel forward solidly to make sure the internal USB-C connection was as good as could be. Then while keeping that pressure on, I tightened the clamp. Mine has been good since I shot this video.
If you have not reseated the shaft and steering wheel, I'd try that first. Remove wheel, loosen clamp, remove shaft and inspect everything. If it all looks good, reinstall and make sure your clamp is aligned perfectly with the slots on the wheel base shaft, then tighten it down.
@@DigitalRelay Everything done multiple Times, i have no more ideas. Im using the Fanatec C Clamp i didnt believe the clamp you Are using fixing This Problems. I Need to send it back to Fanatec 😔
@@EIRE-Nommanic i have sended my to Fanatec but it came back with usb Connection Problems. My opinion is Try First a high quality usb cabel Like HAMA cable. After i did it the Problem is fixed.
Oh no! Was it the 30mm bore version? As far as I know, the GT DD Pro and CSL DD Pro shaft diameters are the same. If you can measure the shaft diameter of your CSL DD Pro, you should be able to find a collar clamp with a matching bore.
@@DigitalRelay Does the link still send you to the correct version of the clamp? I'm not sure if AMZN or the manufacture might have changed the specs for the item at that link.
![Yeat & Quavo - 5BRAZY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4XxnTAwyxus/mqdefault.jpg)
Wish I found your video before the frustration and research involved infiguring this out myself, lol! I had literally stretched the cheap aluminum 1-bolt POS Fanatec uses to the point that the ends touched and my system was still unplayable due to the disconnect issue.
To other viewers with this problem: follow this man's recommendations. He's spot-on.
A couple notes: this clamp is constructed with hardened tool-steel vs. the factory-supplied aluminum style. The relevant specs for this clamp are a thickness of approx 15mm and *important* an inside diameter of 30mm. Approx cost via Amazon is $14 US. Lightly lube threads and bottom (seat) portion of heads of bolts before installation to get strong and even Clamping for e.
Excellent video! Should be flagged as a must-see video for owners of Fanatec GT DD Pro and similar wheelbases equipped with a clearly inferior 1-bolt aluminum clamp.
Thank you! Yeah, it's a frustrating problem. I'm glad you got it sorted!
Thanks for explaining. Had a moment as my wheel disconnected and I thought my wheel was broken…did this fix and we’re back racing again. Appreciate the vid 👌
Yeah, I spent the first 20 minutes trying to understand what the problem was and thinking I might have to send it in for repair. It’s now been several weeks since I put that collar on and I’ve not had an issue since.
Had the same problem, just fitted the new clamp as per your video, feels much better. My torque wrench is coming Monday but just tightening it by hand it feels a huge improvement and I've done a few laps and seems good. TYVM!
Good to hear! Mine's been solid since original install whenever I did this video.
Placed my order for a CSL DD in the weekend and placed another order on Amazon for this two piece collar :D I hope I have the correct dimension for the inner diameter.
Mine was 30mm inside diameter and fit great.
I just had the same issue, you have saved my life ❤❤❤
Happy to help!
Have just taken receipt of a CSL McLaren DD for Xbox and i can tell you i have had multiple disconnections while playing and i know for a fact this is the reason why it's disconnecting because i tightened that shitty clamp down as much as i could to the point where it can not be turned anymore and low and behold it hasn't happened anymore. But i am not happy with that crappy clamp so i am going to purchasing this same clamp that you have here. I also much prefer the 2 bolt clamp option as it's a much more even force. Also thanks for showing you pulling the shaft out i am extremely worried about damaging the USB connector but i know i can do it if you did it. Thanks for the video my friend. Edit as I am from the UK I am not able to purchase the ones in the link but I have purchased pretty much the exact same one from eBay just from a UK seller. Once again thank you
I'm glad you found a comparable clamp! I think the most important part is lining up those slots with the clamp. My two-bolt collar has been on since I put up the video and I've not had a disconnect since.
@@DigitalRelay brilliant thank you again for showing that it can be done easily as long as you line up the shaft again it will be fine. Happy racing my friend
I'm glad I could help!
@@DigitalRelay I received the clamp today (UK) and I don't want to jinx it but I haven't had a DC since using it. And also I don't know why but I could feel so much more detail than I could before. I can feel understeer on the car I can also feel when the front wheels are straight coming out of a corner and I can feel the curbs I can feel everything much better. I am hopeful that it keeps it from DC'ing but only time will tell. Thanks again sir
@@Pr3stag3 I'm so glad to hear that!
I managed to fix the disconnect problem by tightening the original clamp with a moment key tool so it gets really tight, I think I used 9Nm as a measure. Haven't had any issues after a week of testing but I just ordered a similar aluminium clamp with 2 bolts just to be sure.
That's great! I think using the original clamp can work as you say if you line up the slots, and torque the crap out of the clamp, but I'm glad I went with the two-piece collar clamp. I think it makes it easier to apply more even force. I wish Fanatec would just switch to a two-piece collar clamp for everything.
A nice little update.. My first CSL DD 8Nm (which I described in my comment) burned itself after 2 weeks. I received the RMA'd product (new wheelbase) yesterday and tested it today for 2 hours. Suddenly it disconnected mid-race and after checking the wheelbase, the usb-connector in the QR1 base-side had bent and destroyed. What the fuck is going on.
@@MikaTarkelamine is 2 lol
2 points: Tool steel, NOT aluminum. I re-tightened the cheap aluminum clamp so much and so often it's ends were literally touching!
The ONLY way to bend and damage the usb connection is user error/gorilla grip/incorrect alignment when seating shaft. Sorry to say sir, that you were "what the fuck was going on." No offense meant.
Hello. With the torque you gave, nothing broke? Has the shaft no longer slipped? It's all OK?
This is correct. Nothing broke. Shaft has not slipped since. I've not had a disconnect since this fix.
Nice video, forgive my ignorance but will this essentially fix the issue of not needing to get a QR2?? Surelt not, i mean the qr2 is mega expensive, will a £10 fix do the same job??
I think the QR2 gives you some other benefits, especially if you have more than one wheel you like to swap. I'm only using the GT DD Pro wheel, so I'm okay with the inferior QR1 lite, at least for now. The two-piece collar clamp seems to let you apply more even force, which does seem to keep the shaft from backing out. It's been months now since I put mine on, and I've been good. I think the real key to this issue is making sure the slots on the wheel base shaft are aligned exactly with the opening on the clamp, whether you use the original U clamp or the upgraded two-piece clamp.
@@DigitalRelay interesting, I think for such a small price the aftermarket upgrade just has to be done. Thanks
hello, thx for the vid. do i have to buy such a wrench tool or can I do it only with the small one without the nm scale? (If I tighten it as much as I can)
You "can" do it without a torque wrench, but it will difficult to get enough leverage, and impossible to know just how tight you are. For leverage, you can put a pipe, tube, or closed end wrench over the Allen wrench.
@DigitalRelay How did the fix go, 100% fixed after this?
So far, yes. I have not had a disconnect since installing the two-piece collar clamp during the filming of the video.
@@DigitalRelay awesome, thanks for the update! 🥰
Have you had any more disconnects since you installed the new clamp?
I just ordered the DD Pro, expecting it tomorrow.
No disconnects yet, but I’ve not been on a whole lot since the new clamp install. I’ll have to update after the next couple weeks.
@@DigitalRelay Mine disconnected just yesterday, the very following day after getting it. (After a good 5 hours of racing) ...
Very frustrating, to say the least -- especially since I don't have a torque wrench on hand :P
Oh man, that’s frustrating. I have a few more hours in now since switching to the new collar clamp. So far so good.
Hello, I just upgraded from a Logitech g920 to a Fanatec and im so devastated to have clamping and disconnect issues. I just bought the clamp you linked and hoping it saves me from having to buy the QR2. It's very poor of Fanatec imo. Fingers crossed this works for me so I can race and enjoy games again.
Yeah, that's a real pain in the neck. Whichever clamp you use, make sure you line those slots up according to the diagram so the clamping force applies evenly to the shaft. Also make sure to push the shaft in to close the gap before tightening the clamp. Best of luck!
i hear you as i’ve had issues with fanatec as well…
but the qr2 is not gonna be your fix for this (though it does come with the two clamp collar for fitting… if you are using a qr1 i would upgrade to qr2 if i were you… there is no slip when the wheel wants to turn… it just feels a lot better.
Any updates?
That QR looks cheap and weak with the USB C plug in. Fanatec is charging way too much to give people headaches and problems. If you call something a quick release, it should have spring loaded pull backs like the Moza or Logitech Pro wheels.
hello brother! Couid i ask you from the moment you did the video you had 0 disconnecrtions ?
That is correct. I have not had a disconnect since making this video and installing the new collar clamp.
I applied red loctite to the shaft itself, which seems to have fixed the issue. If I ever have to remove the shaft, I could have an issue but whatever...
Yeah, it's a shame we have to come up with these workarounds
I gave this ago and it didn’t work. I appreciate the video and time you put into it.
Oh man, sorry it didn't work for you!
This new clamp worked out for me. I worried my usb c port replacement was the issue. Turns out it wasnt!
That's great!
This issue started for me just yesterday and now it's disconnecting after just moving the wheel. Do you think switching to QR2 would fix this?
If the QR2 comes with a two-piece collar/clamp, then yes, I think it will fix this issue. What's happening now is the standard u-shaped clamp lacks enough force to keep the wheel base shaft in place. The clamp is what's causing this issue. There are other advantages to upgrading to the QR2, but currently I only use the one wheel and didn't see enough value in upgrading from the QR1 lite that came with my base and wheel. Properly installing the Amazon two-piece collar fixed my issue.
A M3 grub screw, under the clamp, through the carbon and stuck into the aluminum or some slots in aluminum would help solve this, wouldn't it?
That sounds like it would work. I'd much prefer Fanatec try it in their shop and perfect it though. I'd be reluctant to start drilling the carbon or the aluminum as a DIY. So far for me, since installing the two-pice collar clamp, I've not had a disconnect. I've said this before too, but I think getting the slots in the carbon wheel shaft lined up exactly with the opening(s) of the clamp is extremely important.
@DigitalRelay again, I concur and can say I'm around 2 weeks since installing the 2-bolt clamp with zero issues and as others have said, the whole shaft assembly definitely feels stiffer/stronger with noticeably less flex. Bums me out that Fanatec would go cheapo over a $14 part that makes such a significant improvement, both in reliability and over-all "feel."
Hey man… so I just started having this problem… but weird enough my v2 does not disconnect… I barely use this Gt wheel and the pins are exactly the same as the v2… so basically it only disconnects this wheel . Any ideas ?
Maybe the connectors between the two different wheels are slightly off, so one works, and one disconnects? It's hard to say. I would remove the wheel, loosen the clamp, then make sure the opening in the clamp lines up exactly with the slots on the wheel base shaft. Then install the aluminum shaft and push toward the wheel base as you tighten. Maybe inspect the connector on the GT wheel and make sure nothing is bent or pushed in. I hope you figure it out!
@@DigitalRelay torque wrench did the trick. Thanks .. apparently I was waaayyy off
@@juanfelipeyanez1890 Glad to hear you got it sorted!
great video, thanks mate
You're very welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
I gotta ask how did this hold up for you?
It's been months now. I have not had to touch it since implementing this fix.
Je pensais avoir une solution avant de regarder ta vidéos. Mais malheureusement j’avais fait la même chose avant. J’ai utilisé le collier en deux partie du QR2 et bien serré l’ensemble mais cela ne résout pas le problème. Cela fonctionne un peu et le problème recommence…
I think the most important step is making sure those slots on the shaft are lined up properly with the clamp.
Oui j’ai bien fait attention à ça. Mais en cherchant un peu j’ai vu que beaucoup avait résolu le problème simplement en changeant de port USB sur la console. J’ai donc fait ça et cet après midi je n’ai pas eu de soucis pendant plus de 2h 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼 en tout cas merci pour ta vidéos.
Heureux de l'entendre!
I'm having that issue, it first loses the gears, then is just as the wheel loses all, i have to reboot all the "system" to it work again, ill try this
Yeah, at the very least, I would loosen the clamp, then make sure you get the slot clamp exactly lined up with the slots on the shaft. Then push the aluminum shaft toward the base as you tighten. Having those slots lined up is super important. I have not had a single disconnect since I went with the two-piece collar clamp. Hopefully, this is your issue. I have also heard some people have had other internal issues, or the internal connection had a defect. Good luck!
@@DigitalRelay seems it worked, removed the shaft, reconnected, tighten the clamp, and seems to be all ok now. the shaft was about half a milimeter off, it seems to be enogh to cause problems
Yeah, it's not a great design. I'm glad you've got it working though.
where you bought this??
Amazon. There's a link in the video description.
2-delige asklem niet meer te verkrijgen op Amazon?
It's still available for me in the US...
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020822LA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe search for collar clamp 30mm bore
Ti conviene comprare il qr2
Kk
Qr2 feels more snug , and comes with the 2 piece clamp , they recommend 8nm
I think if I had more than one wheel, I'd seriously consider the QR2 upgrade.
@@DigitalRelay i dunno man, the wheel slippage from the trash plastic qr1 that comes with this stock is just asking to be replaced. once you do go to qr2 the feel is so much better… there’s no slop when the wheel wants to turn. i’d highly recommend it
@@willzjayvee That's good to know. Thanks for the input.
GOD BLESS YOU
has this mod held up?
Yes. Still going strong.
Did this solve your issue
Yes, it's been 9 or 10 months now and I've not had an issue since.
I tried this clamp but im still getting disconnected with my dd pro😩
Oh man, that's a bummer. Before I tightened the clamp, I pushed the wheel forward solidly to make sure the internal USB-C connection was as good as could be. Then while keeping that pressure on, I tightened the clamp. Mine has been good since I shot this video.
Problem solved?
Yes. I installed the two-piece collar clamp over 3 months ago. No disconnects since.
Great to hear! I'm going to try this and hopefully, it'll fix my non-stop disconnects. @@DigitalRelay
I just have Connection issues with Buttons stop Working and also down or upshift stop Working randomly. I think there is are Problem generally.
If you have not reseated the shaft and steering wheel, I'd try that first. Remove wheel, loosen clamp, remove shaft and inspect everything. If it all looks good, reinstall and make sure your clamp is aligned perfectly with the slots on the wheel base shaft, then tighten it down.
@@DigitalRelay Everything done multiple Times, i have no more ideas. Im using the Fanatec C Clamp i didnt believe the clamp you Are using fixing This Problems. I Need to send it back to Fanatec 😔
Oh man, that's awful. Yeah, it sounds like you have something else going on. I hope they get it sorted for you quickly!
I have the same problem here. Did you manage to get yours fixed?
@@EIRE-Nommanic i have sended my to Fanatec but it came back with usb Connection Problems. My opinion is Try First a high quality usb cabel Like HAMA cable. After i did it the Problem is fixed.
I ordered the one in the link, it was too big. (CSL DD Pro)
Oh no! Was it the 30mm bore version? As far as I know, the GT DD Pro and CSL DD Pro shaft diameters are the same. If you can measure the shaft diameter of your CSL DD Pro, you should be able to find a collar clamp with a matching bore.
@@DigitalRelayI didn’t measure, but it’s okay. I’ll figure it out, thanks
@@DigitalRelaymine looks a lot bigger than yours when i received it.
@@DigitalRelay Does the link still send you to the correct version of the clamp? I'm not sure if AMZN or the manufacture might have changed the specs for the item at that link.
@@Tugennov the link still seems correct for me, $14.39 US. The important part is 30mm inside diameter.
Turn the wheel don't pull it lol