2014 - 2018 Subaru Forester how to replace lower control arm
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2014 - 2018 Subaru Forester how to replace lower control arm.
Pros
For 2017 the Subaru Forester offers up an all-wheel-drive, fuel-efficient, 5-passenger compact SUV with a plethora of available safety equipment. It’s also surprisingly good off-road and has an excellent reliability record. This year, it’s even a little bit of a looker.
Cons
Despite the visual upgrades, the Forester still offers more practicality than pulchritude. And despite a turbo engine that makes the Forester genuinely quick, those looking for more zip should maybe check out options like the Ford Escape, which trades some practicality for pizazz.
Driving The Used 2017 Subaru Forester
The 2017 Subaru Forester is one of an increasingly rare breed that is equally adept on-road and off-road. The all-wheel-drive system, which now includes torque vectoring on turbo models, makes the most of the engine’s torque to help deliver smooth and even power delivery regardless of conditions. Regardless of model, that power is delivered through a continuously variable automatic transmission that helps keep fuel economy near the top of the class, but is unfortunately a little sloppy-feeling from a dead stop. But it’s a minor hiccup in an otherwise solid drivetrain. The suspension blends comfort and control without sacrificing either, with minimal body roll in corners, but with enough suspension travel to absorb big bumps when taking that less beaten path.
Interior Comfort
With thicker glass, an acoustic windshield, new door seals and additional sound deadening under the floor, the 2017 Subaru Forester promises to be notably quieter than its predecessor. Soft-touch surfaces already helped make the Forester feel upscale, and the newly upgraded interior on the Forester Touring models ups that ante considerably. They add some refinement to an interior design that was already excellent thanks to its generous visibility and sensible design. And we mean sensible: The doors open wide, there’s good rear-seat legroom even for adults, and there’s a ton of cargo space behind the rear seats.
Exterior Styling
Subtle refinements to the exterior distinguish the 2017 Forester from its predecessor. The sleeker headlights incorporate Subaru’s C-shaped LED motif, and the hexagonal grille is also new. The rear lights also accent the C shape. The headlights receive a functional upgrade, with new adaptive headlights that turn with the steering wheel to give better visibility at night. This all adds to the Forester’s already strong attributes. It rides 8.7 inches off the ground, ground clearance that makes it especially good for snowy climates. Turbocharged XT models get a unique front end and a rear roof spoiler, plus 18-inch wheels.
Favorite Features
EYESIGHT DRIVER-ASSIST SYSTEM
Improved this year, the available EyeSight system uses two color cameras to view the world ahead, allowing advanced safety features such as pre-collision braking, lane-keeping assist, adaptive cruise control and more.
Standard Features
The base model Forester 2.5i comes standard with all-wheel drive, as well as features you’d expect in a modern car, such as power windows and door locks, air conditioning, cruise control, a multifunction steering wheel, Bluetooth, 6.2-inch Starlink touch-screen audio, variable wipers, 6-speed manual transmission, a rearview camera and color multifunction display. Move up to Premium and you get a panoramic sunroof and alloy wheels, while Limited models also get leather upholstery, automatic climate control and a power liftgate. Touring models get the new interior, plus a heated steering wheel, keyless ignition, an audio upgrade and dual-zone climate control.
Engine & Transmission
Two engines are available for prospective Forester buyers, both of which are 4-cylinder “boxer” engines. Most Foresters come with a non-turbo 2.5-liter that makes 170 horsepower, backed by either a 6-speed manual transmission or the Lineartronic CVT automatic. Forester 2.0XT SUVs offer more power thanks to a turbocharged, direct-injected 2.0-liter engine. This smaller engine develops 250 horsepower and 258 lb-ft of torque, routing it to all four wheels through a High-Torque Lineartronic CVT with multi-mode SI-Drive that can emulate six or eight virtual gear ratios. Neither model is particularly well-suited for towing, rated at only 1,500 pounds. The standard 2.5-liter engine can run on regular, 87-octane gasoline, while turbocharged Foresters require at least 91 octane, with 93 octane preferred.
2.5-liter boxer-4
170 horsepower @ 5,800 rpm
174 lb-ft of torque @ 4,100 rpm
EPA city/highway fuel economy: 22/29 mpg (manual), 26/32 mpg (automatic)
2.0-liter turbocharged boxer-4
250 horsepower @ 5,600 rpm
258 lb-ft of torque @ 2,000-4,800 rpm
EPA city/highway fuel economy: 23/27 mpg
Those bushings will prematurely wear because you didn’t torque them down under load.
Nothing last forever.
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Too-stiff ride too.
@@AxtuoAx Great attitude. "I'm going to do poor quality work and my repairs won't last long. Oh well!" Seems like you need to go back to school or go to school at all...
Liked the video, but, the front bolt in the lower control arm needs to be torqued when the weight of vehicle is on the suspension. Tightening it while in the air will cause the bushing to tear and fail prematurely.
Good to know......things are not meant to last that long. Plus the parts are cheap too.
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Doing this job right now. Are you talking about the bolt next to the steering arm? Not the bolt for the ball joint? Thanks in advance.
That's a good point, not doing so winds the bushing and makes it go bad faster, hopefully mechanics are aware of that.
So how u fix it? Loosen bolt while car is on the floor with wheels on, then tighten back up?
How u fix the issue if tightened in air, lower car on wheels , loosen bolt, then tighten back up? Can u clarify or show which bolt?
Thanks for the video...easy job. I have to say though that torque specs are there for a reason.
The most common mistake gets made at 10:42, namely torquing that control arm bushing before the vehicle is back on the ground. This will stress the bushing material under load and cause it to wear prematurely. Otherwise a solid overview of the process.
Disclaimer: No torque wrenches or lug nut star patterns were harmed in the making of this video.
Literally all Subaru owners will eventually need this video
Most def
Here I am watching this for my 2016 forester
have 90k miles on my 15 forester need to do an axle should i change out the lower control arms while at it?
Here I am with my 18 forester.. 120,000 miles
Thanks
Great job on the video. I just bought the control arm not the ball joint. I hope the ball joint is ok. Need to remove the pin and castle nut and leave the ball joint in place. I have a lift so replacing the control arm will be easy. I think I'll put the vehicle on a rhino ramp to tighten to spec. If I just tighten it by just placing the car on the ground might not work. I guess we will see. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for watching 👀 🙂 🙏
WHAT!!??
You gonna tell me that you didn't replace the sway bar double connector as well????
When doing this kind of repair, ALL 6 bushing points should be replaced.
They even sell you all the parts to do that with for under $150 both sides.
I'd even say that if the car has 100,000 + miles, I'm gonna be replacing the CV axles and shock/spring assembly too. You have it all apart so why not??
Oh, and yeah, I'm gonna be doing an alignment too.
Now you have everything fresh and new and aligned.
I might even replace the wheel bearings.
a torque wrench should be used, especially on the lug nuts, what a novice
I like how you did this repair w/o removing the spindle from the drive shaft, which is how i've seen it done in other video's. I thought it could be done the way you did it, thank you.
I'm so glad you liked this video.
Thanks for watching 👀 🙂 🙏
Lol i love watching a refresher course on a job i have not done in a while...and i say to myself "I don't remember this being that easy" oh yeah i live in ny so practically every bolt needs to be cleaned with a wire brush, douced with penetrant, beaten wirh a hammer and air hammer, torched, then...repeat! I love how he just wizzed of the pinch bolt in 5 seconds flat. I need to move down south
I'm the adapter....I make it look easy.
Super thanks
Great video. Very thorough, good camera work too. You didn't mention the torque settings, and someone previously mentioned torquing under load. Also, the ball joint seat was extremely difficult to remove due it being seized by rust. Any tricks around that? I tried heat, PB blaster, 2 lb mallet, finally a vice grip on the base of the seat got it unlocked.
torque much ????
Dude, at least tourqe the lug nuts. Always a good policy, doesn't take that much time to do so and ensures you won't have any brake pulsation from an improperly tightened wheel.
You put the vice grips on in the wrong direction
Do not use hammer to remove the steering knuckle it will crack
I have yet to see other people use a chisel on the back of the spindle like you which took me a while to figure out too. My 2014 was very rusty so I sprayed every bolt with penetrant and drove for 2-3 days. I started by removing the pinch bolt first, using a breaker bar on the pinch bolt but tightened first lightly and then loosened to nudge it. Back and forth with penetrant gets it out without breaking the bolt and dealing with drilling. I had the same swaybar links in this video and they seized from rust. Had to saw both ends off and this took the longest time for me. Again kudos to you, the trick with Subaru ball joints is to grab a short chisel and hammer in the crack on the spindle like this video which widens and allows for the ball joint to loosen. Hammer away at the control arm and add some penetrant after and it will come out.
Thanks for watching!!!!!
I used a chisel, because I watched this video, and it ended up cracking the steering knuckle making this project a lot more expensive and take a lot longer than it needs to. Be careful. I wish I hadn't stumbled across this video in the first place.
@@Hd103cuin Thanks for sharing that issue will be careful when come upon that.
@@Hd103cuin South Main Auto warns against using a chisel like that because of possibility doing more harm than good.
WOW. What a hack. Beating on new parts with a sledge. Tightened everything with an air tool including the lug nuts. No torque wrench? What is the name of your shop so I can be sure to stay as far away as possible? This is scary.
Great tip!
Thanks for the video. I went to the dealer yesterday and asked if its covered by warranty since my car is only 51000 and 4 years old,bought brand new.Too bad its not covered.Giving me a price quote for 1 grand plus.
Glad you like it!
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Nice job
Thanks
Man you make removing that control arm and ball socket at the same time look so damn easy. My car I have to go get a special tool to remove the ball socket.
Make it look so easy, I have to bang the shit out of it. lol but all in all it was good save me a lot of money..
I'm so glad you liked this video.
Do me a favor and DO NOT SEND ME MONEY.
I DO THIS SO YOU LEARN HOW TO DO IT AND SAVE MONEY.
thanks for watching!!!!
Good job
you're awesome
❤️
3:00 Classic rookie mistake of not using a hex key to immobilize the swaybar end link stud so that the nut can be loosened with a ratcheting box wrench. Any other approach just spins/grinds the insides of the link or worse, like here, tears up the protective boot.
Pretty certain, without even looking, that none of the bolts removed will be torqued to proper spec when replaced at the end of the video.
True all that about the bar links, only if you gonna reuse them.
Thanks for watching!!!!
How did the ball go back in so easily. Mine is stuckity stuck stuck 80% in. Doesnt look misaligned.
I'd like to do it, just show your love by hitting the THANKS button right below the video.
Love the way you popped out the bj. I had seen the subi specific tool and thought there had to be an easier way.
Check the video I'm about to upload regarding to your comment, if you subscribed to my channel then you shouldn't be worry about it cuz as soon as I upload it, my channel will let you know...thanks for the feedback.....I'm pretty sure it would be ready for tomorrow 01.27.22 around 6pm 6:30pm....thanks!!!!!
Excellent. I am having Subaru replace both front bushings on my 2014 Forester XT. It actually looks straight forward, though they advise 1.8 hours per side...
Take your time....nobody is rushing you
GREAT INFORMATION!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS !!!!!
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Great vid. I recently had two cv axles replaced on my 2016 Subaru Forester. I now have crazy vibrations when I accelerate. They told me that maybe the bushings are worn and that maybe I need to replace the Lower Control Arms. Why did these lower control arms need to be replaced? Vibrations or just that the bushings were worn out? I appreciate any feedback. Thank you.
Welcome aboard, Michael!
If it is the control arm, you gonna hear a clunk sound coming from the front bottom of your vehicle every time you go over a speed bump, pot holes, and even when you hit the brakes and that's because the bushings are torn apart, damaged, or fragmented. Now since there is no more rubber(bushing) in your control arm, metal hit metal, and make that clunk sound.
You mentioned vibrations? So I would check the entire front end of the vehicle to make sure it's the control arm and not an unbalanced tire unless a mechanic checked it already and told you it's the control arm.
Good luck with that project and let me know what happened with it.
Thanks for watching!
@@AxtuoAx Thank you!
The vibration after axle replacement is the result of an aftermarket, unbalanced axle. Take it back to the shop and demand OEM axles only.
@@mattmaloy8698 Than you! I took it back and they did something to fix how they were installed. Now the vibration is mostly gone. I feel it a little on acceleration like if I am going up a hill. But for the most part it is gone. Yes, they put in aftermarket axles on both sides.
@@michaelriccelli8483 Glad they took care of ya. Happy Subaruing!
0:14…. It’s a huge slice of pizza!!! 🍕
That slice of pizza stole the show at 0:14! It's a pizza superstar!
You did not mention the reason you were replacing the control arm.
Squeak a lot
Where you from?
Super thanks
Why wouldn’t you have took the ball joint nut out first and beat on it with all the other control arm bolts still attached so you had more leverage
You can do that also
I have no choice here in the northeast so much rust and corrosion you need the leverage to beat those out
I understand
How many labor hours does this require on average?
Pretty rough there brother
Yeah...
Thanks for watching!!!! 👀 🙏
Very helpful thanks!!
does it need alignment after
☝️😌
Lol... just impact everything.
Torque value?
Tight it n snug it
@@AxtuoAx I found some specs. Pinch bolt for the ball joint is 40 lbs/sq in. Front bushing is 80 lbs/sq in. Rear bushing is 110 lbs/sq in. Stabilizer bar link is 50 lbs/sq in
Love it!!!! Everybody is gonna love u for this! Pause! 🫵😉...thanks
Good work
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow the errors in your work.. I've seen backyard work dont more accurately..
Since you down there...
Since you down there, don't forget to show your appreciation and return of kindness by being thankful and hit the super thanks button.
It's depressing as shit to see supposedly top shelf parts have the Made in China stamp. No more Moog for me.
I feel you cuz!!!
I'm so glad you liked this video tho.
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It's all made in China these days. Goodluck.