Trying to put a 3 cyl pfr jump back together and nod having much luck. Think the issue is I am not aligning the piston up correctly. Any incite as to how they line up in the cly? Thanks
It's been a while since I tore into these, but here's what I came up with: The rack has a centerline marked on it near the pin that controls it, this centerline matches up with a notch that is on the bottom of the geared sleeve piece. The sleeve has a double D drive, one side of the D has a notch which lines up with the centerline of the rack. You assemble the geared sleeve to the centerline of the rack inside the pump body. The pump piston and sleeve are timed based on the rack and geared sleeve. The pump sleeve has a notch cut into it that engages a pin that protrudes from the body of the pump, this fixes the sleeve and fuel supply port at the 6 o'clock position, opposite of the main fuel inlet on the body of the pump, which is at 12 o'clock. When the rack is at the middle position, the pump piston installs with the diagonal slot towards the 6 o'clock position. With everything else installed, the piston can only be installed in 2 ways, the diagonal fuel delivery slot should face the fuel supply port of the sleeve. If you keep all of these timed, the pump should go back together correctly and work properly. Sorry, I don't have pictures to accompany this description.
EFormance Engineering I cannot get my injector out of my engine because the sliding control rod is not sliding. What do you think i should do to get it out?
Thank you, I completely understand how these work now, great, better yet greatest video this year. I just became a Yanmar Gray Market owner and guys like you are worth your weight in gold. I am now looking for a fine micron fuel filter, with more worries than ever. Just being funny. Thanks again.
Hi thank you for your information. I am about to take apart the pump on a 4le motor are there marks that show the timing? I think I need to replace o rings. I will do my best not to change timing but if something happens I would like to know THANKS
Can those 2 bolt be removed without taking the whole unit out I just need to replace those 2 orings and in unsure how to proceed its the 4le1 engine but looks just like that one thanx
Are you referring to the copper crush washers that seal the delivery valve to the pump? Those can be replaced without removing the pump, you just need to unfasten the injection line and unscrew the delivery valve and replace the washers. There are no o-rings in this pump that I can see.
Is from a 4le1 engine number 23 in the Pic 2 orings I just saw ur vid the pump look very similar I wanted to know if I could remove the 2 pentagon bolts and replace 23 and not remove whole unit thanx for any hell very nee to this
So I have fuel leaking at the top of the pump. Not coming from the fuel line fitting but the top of the pump. If I take the top out it looks like in your video there us a copper washer correct? Thanks in advance
That fitting is so tight I was afraid to break something but I'm assuming once you take off the fuel line a socket and breaker bar is needed? Thanks this video was very helpful. Great job!
@@bobbynj66 The nozzle assembly screws into the pump body, there is a washer between the delivery valve body and the nozzle assembly. Once you remove the fuel line the nozzle assembly should unscrew, if it's taking a lot of force, try using some heat from a propane torch to heat cycle the body and nozzle assembly. The body is Aluminum, so you have to be careful with how much force and heat you apply. The fact that it's difficult to remove suggests corrosion, corrosion is caused by water. If there is corrosion then there are probably worse things going on inside the pump.
The parts specific to your engine should be available from a Kubota dealer. The barrel diameter is probably specific to each engine size, with the stroke set by the engine designer. I contacted IHI USA to inquire about replacements and they had them available.
Thanks, still very helpfull. My plunger was sort of stuck, but managed to clear that. But, with testing still no fuel coming out. I am afraid that the delivery valve is clogged. Was it hard to remove?
The pump comes apart easily, there are 2 nuts that are 5 sided and there are a couple threaded parts of the body. If fuel isn't coming out it could be because the delivery valve isn't seating, it's a check valve that makes sure the fuel only goes one way.
@@eformance My pump is a bit different. Looking at it again, I think the cupper washer is to small as it does not line up with the outer side of the delivery alve housing. I will get another washer today. Disassembly was a bit hard because the plunger was really stuck in there. The lever to rotate the plunger could not be moved from side to side. I had to tap it out from the top, but didnt know I could do that at first. And now for some google search keywords. This pump is almost the same as the one in a #lombardini LDA450 3LD450 3LD510 which is also used in an Arona AD186 type engine or Sole Mini 2 or Sole Mini 3. ;-)
@@eformance So I found another youtube movie, explaining more about the delivery valve. Like in your movie, the valve goes very smooth in the deliveryvalve holder. And mine is really stuck in there. I thought that was correct, but it is not. It needs to move! ruclips.net/video/emBAbb9f3bc/видео.html&ab_channel=EFormanceEngineeringEFormanceEngineering&loop=0
@@jopieavier7825 I'm guessing your pump is rusty inside from water in fuel? If the pump was stuck and delivery valve are stuck and it's got rust, the pump is no good. Parts like that will not usually survive getting rusty, even a little. The tolerances are so small that even a little corrosion will make them not work.
@@eformance No, no rust. Just, how do you call it, sort of sticky stuff, gunk? The plunger was also very stuck, but after tapping the plunger out, was able to "drill" that away by rotating the plunger back in, so it scraped off the gunk. I guessing this is also the case in the delivery valve holder. Will check tomorrow.
Thanks for the video friend, the amount of diesel injected is determined by the stroke of the piston / plunger. How is this race modified? changing the gasket of the pump for a higher or lower?
The shim/gasket determines the injection timing, not the amount of fuel delivered. The fuel delivery is determined by the diameter of the piston and the position of the rack. There is no way to increase the fuel flow without changing the piston. The rack is the throttle, if your throttle has a stop then you can increase the fuel by adjusting the throttle stop.
@@eformance I will explain my case with this pump, I have recently rebuilt the cylinder, piston and cylinder head of a tractor, all perfect, but I find that the response of the engine is somewhat slow. I wanted to try to make some adjustments to the pump in order to gain better throttle response. Thank you very much for your time and your explanation.
@@albert5538 I will share *my* understanding of how diesels work, YMMV. The throttle response is largely a function of the injection timing, the more advance you have, the more responsive it will be. This is my observation from driving a diesel pickup. More advance is also noisier. The Zexel/Bosch pump advance is controlled by the shims under the pump body, more shims is retarded, fewer shims is advanced. The camshaft operates the valves and the pumps, so moving the pump closer to the camshaft means it will reach the pop-off point sooner. The pop-off point for these injectors should be 2000psi, if they do not pop at 2000psi then the injection timing will be off and combustion can be lazy. Testing pop-off pressure is easily done with a hydraulic hand pump and gauge. You need to check that the injectors are popping off at 2000psi (or whatever the spec is for your engine) and that you have the right shims under the pump bodies. I haven't tried, but it seems logical to me that if you increased the fuel pressure to the pumps, you could also increase the amount of fuel injected, since the pumps would spend less time raising the pressure to 2000psi. If the base is 4-7psi, the pump is raising the pressure 1993-1996psi, if the fuel pressure is 100psi, it is only raising the pressure 1900psi, the rest of the stroke is just fuel delivery. I don't know how they would cope with 100psi fuel pressure though :-)
@@eformance Excellent explanation friend, thank you very much, from what I see I will have to try to adjust by removing a gasket from the injection pump to see how the engine reacts. The injector has to be fine, before repairing the cylinder everything worked fine, as a result of the repair the acceleration has become somewhat slow. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the reply. How do you set the metering (fuel volume) on the pumps? I have a Zexel PFR3K (inline 3) I cleaned and reassembled. But the engine now runs but very rough and smoky. The adjustments on top I had witness marked but seems they are not correct any longer. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the very informative video! Where can one buy the replacement parts you mention? I have Kubota 3 Cylinder pump by Zexel that needs rebuilding. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video! Quick question: I am trying to rebuild one of these and am unsure how to align the plunger with the gashes, the grooved sleeve, and the grooved shaft that travels horizontally. For example, if I set the grooved shaft in the fuel cutoff position, then how should I orient the plunger and sleeve? Thanks for your time.
The pump volume is determined by the stroke of the pump and the diameter of the piston. The throttle moves a rack which changes the amount of fuel that is bled off, to vary the amount of fuel. The only way you can increase the volume delivered to the injectors is to hold the throttle open more. The pistons are around 7mm and the stroke is around 10mm, the displacement is fixed so there is no way to get more fuel. You could increase the pressure of the fuel coming in, that may increase the amount of fuel delivered to the injector. These normally use a 7psi fuel pump and deliver 2000psi to the injector (that's what the pop off pressure of the injector is set to).
@@voravitrakwong That's because it's a 40HP engine. That would be about right for a 4T excavator but a lot of manufacturers used under-powered engines in larger machines. I'd say that 10HP per ton is about right. If your excavator is sized about 4T then the problem could be worn out pumps due to poor fuel filtration. This is what happened to mine and why I had to source replacement pumps. I got some old take off parts from a dealer and they were in better condition than the pumps I had. Someone had put the fuel filter in upside down... Now when power falls off it's because it needs a new filter, because the filter is doing its job and catching the fine stuff coming from the tank.
Excellent video with detail explanation. It helps me to have a better understanding of the operation of the pump. How do you align the plunger/piston helix gap to the sleeve body(cylinder)of the pump. I have one injection like yours and appeared to have been worked on, but frozen. I was able to get the piston free but I am not certain that it was properly assembled by the previous owner/service man. Thanks for your help.
Hi David, I went through the comments and found a question like yours and the reply I came up with at that time and I pinned it at the top of the comments section. The short answer is that the gear and rack have witness marks and the piston orients a specific way in relation to the rack and witness marks. More detail can be found in the reply I pinned at the top.
Thanks again so much. I double check on the witness mark and it showed its not assembled according to your guidance. It may be why the engine could not run and just sit there in some places and the pump frozen up!!! Now I can re-assemble it and get the engine started...
Hi, I am trying to pull my injection pump, same type as yours, but the sliding control rod is not sliding and I cannot pull it out because I cannot long up the arm with the hole in the casing. What should I do I get this pump out of the engine?
The rack is normally pushed to one side by the internal fuel control rack inside the engine. When the engine is off, the fuel shutoff solenoid applies spring force to the rack to cut the fuel. Make sure you have the ignition on, or remove the shutoff solenoid, then you can manually move the rack with the throttle lever on the engine.
I'm not certain why Bosch named them PF and PFR, however if you look at their series of pumps, PF are single cylinder pumps, PE are multi-cylinder pumps, and VE are distributor type pumps. I could guess that P is for Plunger, F means Single, E means multi-cylinder, V means Variable displacement, and PFR might mean Rack, since they are Rack controlled pumps. This is just my guess.
Thank you for a very good video. I am currently having a problem with the fuel pump in my Sabb Type G engine. The pump was very rusty and in bad shape as the engine had been underwater. Now my only problem is that i need to replace the round gear. (If you by any chance know how to get one (to Norway) please tell!). Again, great video. Nikolai
Sorry, I do not know much about the Sabb Type G engine or its fuel pump. Based on my general knowledge of diesel pumps, I would advise you that the pump you have is junk. If any of the critical surfaces are rusty, the pump will be no good.
I am still talking, sorry. I started looking for why maybe my fuel in engine case was from fuel pump leaks. And got side tracked with your knowledge. What about the piston seal separating fuel from lube oil, can you explain where that is? Maybe at the bottom of the piston, is it an O ring, is is special for heat or fuel?
+James Dorsey There aren't any seals in the lower part of the pump body. There is a copper washer in the upper part of the body, but in the lower part the sealing is done by precise machined fits. If you're getting fuel into the crank case, then there is either a fitment problem between the cylinder and the pump body, or there is fuel blowing by the piston under high pressure. The initial layout of the parts when I start the video is the order they are assembled in the pump body. The copper washer seals between th delivery valve and nozzle assembly IIRC.
The pumps are held in by 4 bolts and located with dowel pins. Sometimes the last person to install them used gasket sealer and causes them to really stick. Gently tapping the body of the pump back and forth may help release the seal. In a worse case, a chisel under the corner will help get the pump separated from the block.
Hey thanks for the vid. It helped me put my pump back together as I was unsure about some things when putting back together. I was wondering how you would go about increasing fuel output because I am installing a turbocharger on my engine. I have some ideas but thought someone else might know how to do this?
Great video mate, do you know where can I get or who sold repair kits for this type of injection pumps? I have the same pump and I need to repair it, i'm an specialist on injection diesel but here in Chile I can't find repair kits for this pump and no one sold it completly. Can you give me any help? where can I buy a repair kit or the pump completly? Thanks you so much, its great what you do, share knowdledge to everyone Greetings from Chile Felipe Cabrera
Thank you for that great video. I just recently salvaged a barge with 2 isuzu 4LE1 pw03 motors that were completely under water for two years. We left then full of water about 3 weeks until I could completely disassemble them. Much to my surprise with the first engine, there was no rust in bottom of the motor. The steel fuel lines were rusting and the aluminum parts were sloughing but the inside was excellent. I removed the intake,head and fuel system and placed the whole unit in a vat to dissolve the rust on outside of engine and will leave it there until I can reassemble it. There was a light coat of rust in one cylinder but was able to remove it with my finger.The other engine I dropped the pan and it was rust free as well so I put form a gasket on the pan and filled the engine with diesel fuel. My question to you is where is the best place to find the aluminum parts used? Also I plan to replace the front and rear seal, is there any other parts I need to replace or inspect before reassemble?
doug pitt I think the best place to start for parts is to call your local largish dealer that sells the equipment and see if they have any take-out motors you can get parts from. That's how I repaired the engine I made this video about. There are lots of parts motors floating around at equipment dealers just for this reason. In your case, find out who the Isuzu industrial dealer is for your area and call them up to see if they have any parts motors you can buy parts from. Another way is to find out what else that motor was used in and call those equipment dealers.
I used channel-lock pliers to remove the penta-socket nuts on the pumps. The nuts are not tightly torqued and can be safely removed and installed with the pliers. You could also try filing a notch in an open end wrench or buying a penta-socket or spline drive socket set.
The engine had around 2k hours on it. I suspect it went something like this: 1. Mr Swift changes fuel filter, installs it upside down in the bowl because he didn't pay attention to how it came out. 2. Mr Swift runs tractor and it gradually runs down on power over time. 3. Owner decides to set tractor aside because of power problems. 4. Owner goes under and/or auctions tractor. 5. Used equipment guy buys tractor for $5k, "it ran and moved" 6. Used equipment guy sits on tractor for 6 months, meanwhile diesel absorbs water and fuel tank gets rusty. 7. Neighbor buys tractor and runs it, sucks rusty stuff through injection system, doesn't know that fuel filter is upside down when he looks at filter. 8. Power drops off badly. 9. Neighbor trades tractor to me with "it ran fine until it ran out of fuel" story. 10. I check compression (500psi) and pop pressure (good enough). 11. I take apart injectors, clean and shim them to proper pop pressure. 12. I take apart 1 pump and see wear on plunger, order some used pumps after finding out price of new. 13. Tractor runs and starts fine again, still should rebuild pumps and injectors.
Wow, nice... Thanks for taking the time to write that... Yeah, people that can't do simple maintenance should stay away from things like that... At least you got a great deal!
Hey Perry good morning, this is Jason vincent. I have met you before and I live in Boulder Creek. I have an ihi 40 JX. the injector pump is leaking right where the delivery nozzles screw in. I replaced the O-ring on the delivery nozzle but it still seems to be leaking. just with the key on not even running? Any idea or would you be interested in resealing my injectors for$
Hi Jason, I'm not in BC anymore. Did you replace the copper washers too? The high pressure lines are taper seal (JIC) and the delivery nozzle uses copper washers to seal, with a ball and spring underneath to form a 1-way valve. If you have 1 big injection pump like a Cummins, then it's different than this style and the instructions above may not apply.
@EFormance Engineering Think about what you want to say ,and write a crib sheet . Presentation is what makes RUclips videos . Best of luck in the future .
@@johnniethepom7545 You realize this video is 10 years old, right? So a decade ago I decided to sit down in my dining room and share what I learned about some random part that came off an excavator engine, with absolutely no expectation that more than 100 people would watch it. 188,000 views later and we're having this conversation. Is it a run-on video with poor production value and no script, yep! You should see the script for the next video I want to do, it's too long and figuring out how to present the material in 20 minutes is HARD! I even had the thing shot, but my experiment using a "new" cellphone without dedicated wireless mic was abysmal, so scrapped it because my production values are better.
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Trying to put a 3 cyl pfr jump back together and nod having much luck. Think the issue is I am not aligning the piston up correctly. Any incite as to how they line up in the cly? Thanks
It's been a while since I tore into these, but here's what I came up with:
The rack has a centerline marked on it near the pin that controls it, this centerline matches up with a notch that is on the bottom of the geared sleeve piece. The sleeve has a double D drive, one side of the D has a notch which lines up with the centerline of the rack. You assemble the geared sleeve to the centerline of the rack inside the pump body.
The pump piston and sleeve are timed based on the rack and geared sleeve. The pump sleeve has a notch cut into it that engages a pin that protrudes from the body of the pump, this fixes the sleeve and fuel supply port at the 6 o'clock position, opposite of the main fuel inlet on the body of the pump, which is at 12 o'clock.
When the rack is at the middle position, the pump piston installs with the diagonal slot towards the 6 o'clock position. With everything else installed, the piston can only be installed in 2 ways, the diagonal fuel delivery slot should face the fuel supply port of the sleeve. If you keep all of these timed, the pump should go back together correctly and work properly.
Sorry, I don't have pictures to accompany this description.
Yes, it was incorrect, the delivery port is the check-valved fitting on top. I have edited the original comment to correct the description.
Hi where to get spare parts for NP inection pump or mitubishi tractor
EFormance Engineering I cannot get my injector out of my engine because the sliding control rod is not sliding. What do you think i should do to get it out?
Thank you, I completely understand how these work now, great, better yet greatest video this year. I just became a Yanmar Gray Market owner and guys like you are worth your weight in gold. I am now looking for a fine micron fuel filter, with more worries than ever. Just being funny. Thanks again.
wonder if you could lap the delivery valve to get a good seal 🤔
How aboUt an assembly instruction? The piston can be installed in two ways. Which is the correct one?
Hi thank you for your information. I am about to take apart the pump on a 4le motor are there marks that show the timing? I think I need to replace o rings. I will do my best not to change timing but if something happens I would like to know
THANKS
Timing is set my the shims under the pump body, as long as you put the shims back where they were, you'll be fine.
That was extremely helpful! Thank you.
Can those 2 bolt be removed without taking the whole unit out I just need to replace those 2 orings and in unsure how to proceed its the 4le1 engine but looks just like that one thanx
Are you referring to the copper crush washers that seal the delivery valve to the pump? Those can be replaced without removing the pump, you just need to unfasten the injection line and unscrew the delivery valve and replace the washers. There are no o-rings in this pump that I can see.
Is from a 4le1 engine number 23 in the Pic 2 orings I just saw ur vid the pump look very similar I wanted to know if I could remove the 2 pentagon bolts and replace 23 and not remove whole unit thanx for any hell very nee to this
Good pump video
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Hi, do you have any tutorial how to assemble the pump correctly? Or can you do it? Many thanks
Sorry, I don't have a tutorial on assembly.
Cool vid Perry. My little Allmand backhoe has an Isuzu 3LD1 that uses the same injection system I believe. Cool to understand how it works!
So I have fuel leaking at the top of the pump. Not coming from the fuel line fitting but the top of the pump. If I take the top out it looks like in your video there us a copper washer correct? Thanks in advance
Yes, there is a copper washer.
That fitting is so tight I was afraid to break something but I'm assuming once you take off the fuel line a socket and breaker bar is needed? Thanks this video was very helpful. Great job!
@@bobbynj66 The nozzle assembly screws into the pump body, there is a washer between the delivery valve body and the nozzle assembly. Once you remove the fuel line the nozzle assembly should unscrew, if it's taking a lot of force, try using some heat from a propane torch to heat cycle the body and nozzle assembly. The body is Aluminum, so you have to be careful with how much force and heat you apply. The fact that it's difficult to remove suggests corrosion, corrosion is caused by water. If there is corrosion then there are probably worse things going on inside the pump.
Have and idea where I can get the copper washers and o-rings for these injector pumps? I cannot find a rebuild kit anywhere on the net for them.
@@bobbynj66 Call these guys: areadieselservice.com/
They should be able to get you the parts you need.
Wish you would have showed how some of the parts worked together on the close up.
Is it possible to use a pfr1k70 in the place of a pfr1k65. I can get one of these for about $200 cheaper than the pfr1k65
I have no idea.
The parts specific to your engine should be available from a Kubota dealer. The barrel diameter is probably specific to each engine size, with the stroke set by the engine designer. I contacted IHI USA to inquire about replacements and they had them available.
Thanks, still very helpfull. My plunger was sort of stuck, but managed to clear that. But, with testing still no fuel coming out. I am afraid that the delivery valve is clogged. Was it hard to remove?
The pump comes apart easily, there are 2 nuts that are 5 sided and there are a couple threaded parts of the body. If fuel isn't coming out it could be because the delivery valve isn't seating, it's a check valve that makes sure the fuel only goes one way.
@@eformance My pump is a bit different. Looking at it again, I think the cupper washer is to small as it does not line up with the outer side of the delivery alve housing. I will get another washer today.
Disassembly was a bit hard because the plunger was really stuck in there. The lever to rotate the plunger could not be moved from side to side. I had to tap it out from the top, but didnt know I could do that at first. And now for some google search keywords. This pump is almost the same as the one in a #lombardini LDA450 3LD450 3LD510 which is also used in an Arona AD186 type engine or Sole Mini 2 or Sole Mini 3. ;-)
@@eformance So I found another youtube movie, explaining more about the delivery valve. Like in your movie, the valve goes very smooth in the deliveryvalve holder. And mine is really stuck in there. I thought that was correct, but it is not. It needs to move! ruclips.net/video/emBAbb9f3bc/видео.html&ab_channel=EFormanceEngineeringEFormanceEngineering&loop=0
@@jopieavier7825 I'm guessing your pump is rusty inside from water in fuel? If the pump was stuck and delivery valve are stuck and it's got rust, the pump is no good. Parts like that will not usually survive getting rusty, even a little. The tolerances are so small that even a little corrosion will make them not work.
@@eformance No, no rust. Just, how do you call it, sort of sticky stuff, gunk? The plunger was also very stuck, but after tapping the plunger out, was able to "drill" that away by rotating the plunger back in, so it scraped off the gunk. I guessing this is also the case in the delivery valve holder. Will check tomorrow.
Thanks for the video friend, the amount of diesel injected is determined by the stroke of the piston / plunger. How is this race modified? changing the gasket of the pump for a higher or lower?
The shim/gasket determines the injection timing, not the amount of fuel delivered. The fuel delivery is determined by the diameter of the piston and the position of the rack. There is no way to increase the fuel flow without changing the piston. The rack is the throttle, if your throttle has a stop then you can increase the fuel by adjusting the throttle stop.
@@eformance I will explain my case with this pump, I have recently rebuilt the cylinder, piston and cylinder head of a tractor, all perfect, but I find that the response of the engine is somewhat slow. I wanted to try to make some adjustments to the pump in order to gain better throttle response. Thank you very much for your time and your explanation.
@@albert5538 I will share *my* understanding of how diesels work, YMMV. The throttle response is largely a function of the injection timing, the more advance you have, the more responsive it will be. This is my observation from driving a diesel pickup. More advance is also noisier. The Zexel/Bosch pump advance is controlled by the shims under the pump body, more shims is retarded, fewer shims is advanced. The camshaft operates the valves and the pumps, so moving the pump closer to the camshaft means it will reach the pop-off point sooner. The pop-off point for these injectors should be 2000psi, if they do not pop at 2000psi then the injection timing will be off and combustion can be lazy. Testing pop-off pressure is easily done with a hydraulic hand pump and gauge. You need to check that the injectors are popping off at 2000psi (or whatever the spec is for your engine) and that you have the right shims under the pump bodies. I haven't tried, but it seems logical to me that if you increased the fuel pressure to the pumps, you could also increase the amount of fuel injected, since the pumps would spend less time raising the pressure to 2000psi. If the base is 4-7psi, the pump is raising the pressure 1993-1996psi, if the fuel pressure is 100psi, it is only raising the pressure 1900psi, the rest of the stroke is just fuel delivery. I don't know how they would cope with 100psi fuel pressure though :-)
@@eformance Excellent explanation friend, thank you very much, from what I see I will have to try to adjust by removing a gasket from the injection pump to see how the engine reacts. The injector has to be fine, before repairing the cylinder everything worked fine, as a result of the repair the acceleration has become somewhat slow.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the reply. How do you set the metering (fuel volume) on the pumps? I have a Zexel PFR3K (inline 3) I cleaned and reassembled. But the engine now runs but very rough and smoky. The adjustments on top I had witness marked but seems they are not correct any longer. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for this video it has been a great help 👍👍👍👍
Thanks, glad it helped!
Thanks for the very informative video! Where can one buy the replacement parts you mention? I have Kubota 3 Cylinder pump by Zexel that needs rebuilding. Thanks in advance.
How the hell do you remove that pump I could not take mine out
Thanks for the video! Quick question: I am trying to rebuild one of these and am unsure how to align the plunger with the gashes, the grooved sleeve, and the grooved shaft that travels horizontally. For example, if I set the grooved shaft in the fuel cutoff position, then how should I orient the plunger and sleeve? Thanks for your time.
There is a comment reply from about 2 years ago (in a collapsed section) that explains this.
Great job
Thanks!
How can I increase fuel volume for more power of this pump ?
The pump volume is determined by the stroke of the pump and the diameter of the piston. The throttle moves a rack which changes the amount of fuel that is bled off, to vary the amount of fuel. The only way you can increase the volume delivered to the injectors is to hold the throttle open more. The pistons are around 7mm and the stroke is around 10mm, the displacement is fixed so there is no way to get more fuel. You could increase the pressure of the fuel coming in, that may increase the amount of fuel delivered to the injector. These normally use a 7psi fuel pump and deliver 2000psi to the injector (that's what the pop off pressure of the injector is set to).
@@eformance Thank you very much for nice reply. My mini excavator use this type of pump for Isuzu 4LE2 . It's not enough engine power.
@@voravitrakwong That's because it's a 40HP engine. That would be about right for a 4T excavator but a lot of manufacturers used under-powered engines in larger machines. I'd say that 10HP per ton is about right. If your excavator is sized about 4T then the problem could be worn out pumps due to poor fuel filtration. This is what happened to mine and why I had to source replacement pumps. I got some old take off parts from a dealer and they were in better condition than the pumps I had. Someone had put the fuel filter in upside down... Now when power falls off it's because it needs a new filter, because the filter is doing its job and catching the fine stuff coming from the tank.
Excellent video with detail explanation. It helps me to have a better understanding of the operation of the pump. How do you align the plunger/piston helix gap to the sleeve body(cylinder)of the pump. I have one injection like yours and appeared to have been worked on, but frozen. I was able to get the piston free but I am not certain that it was properly assembled by the previous owner/service man.
Thanks for your help.
Hi David, I went through the comments and found a question like yours and the reply I came up with at that time and I pinned it at the top of the comments section. The short answer is that the gear and rack have witness marks and the piston orients a specific way in relation to the rack and witness marks. More detail can be found in the reply I pinned at the top.
Thanks again so much. I double check on the witness mark and it showed its not assembled according to your guidance. It may be why the engine could not run and just sit there in some places and the pump frozen up!!! Now I can re-assemble it and get the engine started...
Hi, I am trying to pull my injection pump, same type as yours, but the sliding control rod is not sliding and I cannot pull it out because I cannot long up the arm with the hole in the casing. What should I do I get this pump out of the engine?
The rack is normally pushed to one side by the internal fuel control rack inside the engine. When the engine is off, the fuel shutoff solenoid applies spring force to the rack to cut the fuel. Make sure you have the ignition on, or remove the shutoff solenoid, then you can manually move the rack with the throttle lever on the engine.
Hello all,
Can someone tell me where i can buy PFR 1k95 or 1k90 left pump element?
Hi guys, fine? Well i would like to know the mean of PFR and PF. Thanks and good job.
I'm not certain why Bosch named them PF and PFR, however if you look at their series of pumps, PF are single cylinder pumps, PE are multi-cylinder pumps, and VE are distributor type pumps. I could guess that P is for Plunger, F means Single, E means multi-cylinder, V means Variable displacement, and PFR might mean Rack, since they are Rack controlled pumps. This is just my guess.
@@eformance OK, Thanks man! See ya kkkk
Thank you for a very good video. I am currently having a problem with the fuel pump in my Sabb Type G engine. The pump was very rusty and in bad shape as the engine had been underwater. Now my only problem is that i need to replace the round gear. (If you by any chance know how to get one (to Norway) please tell!). Again, great video. Nikolai
Sorry, I do not know much about the Sabb Type G engine or its fuel pump. Based on my general knowledge of diesel pumps, I would advise you that the pump you have is junk. If any of the critical surfaces are rusty, the pump will be no good.
I am still talking, sorry. I started looking for why maybe my fuel in engine case was from fuel pump leaks. And got side tracked with your knowledge. What about the piston seal separating fuel from lube oil, can you explain where that is? Maybe at the bottom of the piston, is it an O ring, is is special for heat or fuel?
+James Dorsey There aren't any seals in the lower part of the pump body. There is a copper washer in the upper part of the body, but in the lower part the sealing is done by precise machined fits. If you're getting fuel into the crank case, then there is either a fitment problem between the cylinder and the pump body, or there is fuel blowing by the piston under high pressure. The initial layout of the parts when I start the video is the order they are assembled in the pump body. The copper washer seals between th delivery valve and nozzle assembly IIRC.
I have a 1985 Bomag roller and it has a Deutz one cylinder and it has a Bosch pump and I can’t take it out ..would really appreciate the help
The pumps are held in by 4 bolts and located with dowel pins. Sometimes the last person to install them used gasket sealer and causes them to really stick. Gently tapping the body of the pump back and forth may help release the seal. In a worse case, a chisel under the corner will help get the pump separated from the block.
Hey thanks for the vid. It helped me put my pump back together as I was unsure about some things when putting back together.
I was wondering how you would go about increasing fuel output because I am installing a turbocharger on my engine. I have some ideas but thought someone else might know how to do this?
Great video mate, do you know where can I get or who sold repair kits for this type of injection pumps? I have the same pump and I need to repair it, i'm an specialist on injection diesel but here in Chile I can't find repair kits for this pump and no one sold it completly. Can you give me any help? where can I buy a repair kit or the pump completly?
Thanks you so much, its great what you do, share knowdledge to everyone
Greetings from Chile
Felipe Cabrera
Thank you for that great video. I just recently salvaged a barge with 2 isuzu 4LE1 pw03 motors that were completely under water for two years. We left then full of water about 3 weeks until I could completely disassemble them. Much to my surprise with the first engine, there was no rust in bottom of the motor. The steel fuel lines were rusting and the aluminum parts were sloughing but the inside was excellent. I removed the intake,head and fuel system and placed the whole unit in a vat to dissolve the rust on outside of engine and will leave it there until I can reassemble it. There was a light coat of rust in one cylinder but was able to remove it with my finger.The other engine I dropped the pan and it was rust free as well so I put form a gasket on the pan and filled the engine with diesel fuel. My question to you is where is the best place to find the aluminum parts used? Also I plan to replace the front and rear seal, is there any other parts I need to replace or inspect before reassemble?
doug pitt I think the best place to start for parts is to call your local largish dealer that sells the equipment and see if they have any take-out motors you can get parts from. That's how I repaired the engine I made this video about. There are lots of parts motors floating around at equipment dealers just for this reason. In your case, find out who the Isuzu industrial dealer is for your area and call them up to see if they have any parts motors you can buy parts from. Another way is to find out what else that motor was used in and call those equipment dealers.
I having trouble getting the special nuts off the top of the injector pump body could you help me kind the special tool for them please help me
I used channel-lock pliers to remove the penta-socket nuts on the pumps. The nuts are not tightly torqued and can be safely removed and installed with the pliers. You could also try filing a notch in an open end wrench or buying a penta-socket or spline drive socket set.
Thank you very much for the help
How do you get the pump out of the engine?
They are held in with 4 bolts and just slide out. The pumps are driven by a camshaft and are the simplest design of an injection pump.
not exactly the same as the pump I have but a very helpful video
Thanks.
How many hours where on your 35 when you got it? Sounds like the guy before you didn't do good maintenance maybe??? Thanks for sharing!
The engine had around 2k hours on it. I suspect it went something like this:
1. Mr Swift changes fuel filter, installs it upside down in the bowl because he didn't pay attention to how it came out.
2. Mr Swift runs tractor and it gradually runs down on power over time.
3. Owner decides to set tractor aside because of power problems.
4. Owner goes under and/or auctions tractor.
5. Used equipment guy buys tractor for $5k, "it ran and moved"
6. Used equipment guy sits on tractor for 6 months, meanwhile diesel absorbs water and fuel tank gets rusty.
7. Neighbor buys tractor and runs it, sucks rusty stuff through injection system, doesn't know that fuel filter is upside down when he looks at filter.
8. Power drops off badly.
9. Neighbor trades tractor to me with "it ran fine until it ran out of fuel" story.
10. I check compression (500psi) and pop pressure (good enough).
11. I take apart injectors, clean and shim them to proper pop pressure.
12. I take apart 1 pump and see wear on plunger, order some used pumps after finding out price of new.
13. Tractor runs and starts fine again, still should rebuild pumps and injectors.
Wow, nice... Thanks for taking the time to write that... Yeah, people that can't do simple maintenance should stay away from things like that... At least you got a great deal!
Hey Perry good morning, this is Jason vincent. I have met you before and I live in Boulder Creek. I have an ihi 40 JX. the injector pump is leaking right where the delivery nozzles screw in. I replaced the O-ring on the delivery nozzle but it still seems to be leaking. just with the key on not even running? Any idea or would you be interested in resealing my injectors for$
Cool video you caught my attention and I recognized your voice lol
Hi Jason, I'm not in BC anymore. Did you replace the copper washers too? The high pressure lines are taper seal (JIC) and the delivery nozzle uses copper washers to seal, with a ball and spring underneath to form a 1-way valve. If you have 1 big injection pump like a Cummins, then it's different than this style and the instructions above may not apply.
Great video! Very informative and nice detailed pictures.
En español por favor
hindi me
Hemlata Verma aap b fuel injection pumps Ka kaam Karti ho kya ??
Too many umm's and arrrr's make this commentary almost unintelligible .
Arrr matey, sorry for the uh, too many, uh, arrrs in the video. Old habits die hard.
@EFormance Engineering Think about what you want to say ,and write a crib sheet . Presentation is what makes RUclips videos . Best of luck in the future .
@@johnniethepom7545 You realize this video is 10 years old, right? So a decade ago I decided to sit down in my dining room and share what I learned about some random part that came off an excavator engine, with absolutely no expectation that more than 100 people would watch it. 188,000 views later and we're having this conversation. Is it a run-on video with poor production value and no script, yep! You should see the script for the next video I want to do, it's too long and figuring out how to present the material in 20 minutes is HARD! I even had the thing shot, but my experiment using a "new" cellphone without dedicated wireless mic was abysmal, so scrapped it because my production values are better.
@@eformance I will be sure to check out your later videos.
@@johnniethepom7545 Hey, sorry if I came off as a little hot headed.