Even with small equipment engines, OEM is the way to go in most cases. The extra cost is almost always worth it. After market made in China has its value at times. It’s my last resort.
I had the same issue on my 2014 Taurus. I had replaced the oxygen sensor with a Bosch one and the code came right back. Took it to a shop and they didn't see anything wrong, but they recommended replacing with a Denso. I changed it with a Denso and haven't had the issue since.
Lots of problems on those 3.5 Taurus. Not the worst car that Foed made, which ain’t saying much. They basically had to get out of making cars because recalls were costing them too much.
I agree to a certain degree. Certain critical things should be oem. However there are cases where oem is junk. But O2 i never bought stock. Example, 01 S4, Bosch unit is 110, a factory one is 250ea, 2 needed. The car ran great with 220 worth of o2 sensors vs 500. You have to make sure they are real Bosch units. I found a killer deal once on amazon. 30ea vs 56 rockauto. They came in dusty Bosch boxes that were 12yrs old and sensors didnt say bosch on them as usual. I sent them back. The scammers then lied that they only received 1 box. I lost 75. I went back to rockauto. Some stuff can be after market like i have bilstins in my f150. Wonder shocks way better then stock. But i wouldnt buy a autozone or ebay timing chain tensioner. Even though Fords is prob made in the factory across the street, lol
Don’t ever use aftermarket timing components on an ecoboost. Did it once and learned the hard way after having to pay 10x as much for a new engine as the oem parts would have cost. Failed after 6 months fully stretching the timing chain and shearing the “woodruff key” off of the crank. Could have maybe fixed that engine for 5x or 6x the cost of the oem parts but opted for the new engine from Ford and not one of those shady aftermarket engine suppliers.
What brand and model do you suggest for powerful and coated and last long time the rotors+hub front, rear disk, pad, caliper front and rear for 2003 Ford E450 Super Duty 14,000 GROSS WEIGHT box truck rear dually wheels?
The old saying goes, "BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE." Going down the rabbit hole, I found out that Bosch makes Motorcraft O2 sensors. I can tell you for a fact that Motorcraft DOES NOT make the wheel hub bearings for the 2020 and up Explorers. Those are made at my plant. Most F150 differential bearings are made at my plant. Some of the new Mustang hub bearings are made at my plant. Soon, the new F150 Lightning EV truck hub bearings are going to be made at my plant and I don't work for Ford or Motorcraft.
Most aftermarket parts are junk! People bring them to me after the parts cannon has exploded under the hood. The first thing I ask is "Do you have the old parts?" so I can put it back like it was and start troubleshooting with the original problem. Thanks!
Yep, I run Toyotas and Hondas, but every time I try to save money with an aftermarket part, surprise surprise within 20-40 thousand miles I am going back in there to replace it with an OEM part.
I learned a long time ago not to buy aftermarket electric parts for cars because a lot of the time they either don’t work straight out of the box or fail soon after.
I luckily have never needed to diagnose or trace down a bad O2, but this is amazing knowledge to have. No one believes me when I say parts can be ‘bad’ out of the box where ‘bad’ doesn’t necessarily mean broken but more so just not ‘calibrated’ correctly when dealing with electronics.
That can really throw people for a loop, when a new part doesn't get along with the computer so the code you were chasing either stays, or changes to something related but different. Due to an incompatible part.
I used to use aftermarket a lot for my vehicles but have come to the point where I rarely do, as I’ve found they often don’t even fit right, let alone function properly.
Yes the OEM parts are junk as well. Just found my (2000) Grand prix has broken front sway bar , it's HOLLOW NOT SOLID. aftermarket is solid. Every thing nowadays is JUNK.
This is why I love when Rock Auto specifies when a non-Motorcraft part is the OE provider. Can get the right part, a better price, and in the case of brake calipers, sometimes a better warranty
@@TheOverisel I tell people all the time "Just pay for an hour or two of diagnostics before you start throwing the parts store at it!" But nobody ever listens.
I’ve seen issues like this with 02 sensors even on old Fords as well. Case in point a 1989 5.0 Mustang. Quick look on RockAuto for example shows several brands of 02 sensors are available for that vehicle. In my case the car had replacement Bosch 02’s installed and had some drivability quirks. Was able to monitor voltages coming out of them and they were erratic in their output. Replaced them with the OE sensors (which were NTK) and the problem was fixed and the drivability quirks went away. Since that experience I always tell folks if they have to replace 02s to get them from the dealer or at the very least verify the brand Ford used and replace with that brand and part number.
I got burned twice with parts on bmws. It’s not worth the hassle. First was a cam position sensor and the new replacement ran worse then the bad original with 200k+ miles. Next was a thermostat that was defective and making me chase my tail on what else was wrong. Turns out when the computer tells you the thermostat is defective even after you replaced it 2 times it’s actually still defective 😂😂😂 😭😭
You are one of the few that do the job correctly. I started in the 1980s out of school with GM. I loved it, I got factory training which was the best. We were trained to always run the flow chart tests and never skip anything just because we had seen a problem before. For customer satisfaction, I was part of a team of only 1500 technicians nationwide our job was to find and fix driveability problems that the dealer could not figure out so GM could improve customer satisfaction. There was not one problem we did not fix. The factory always had the latest design and if any updates were needed you got them in the new part. Some problems would not be part of a recall as they did not meet that criteria. The aftermarket electronic part was always about ten years behind the factory part. Many of my customer's cars would have drivability problems that they never complained about but when I would replace a module to fix some other problem with the newest updated model they would tell me the car had never run better. With the aftermarket part, the car would run but would still have the driveability problems of not being updated. Most of the time you get what you pay for. Technicians I see today seem to just want to be parts R&R guys and just replace the part that the computer code is related to and never run the tests to see if it is really bad or some other problem. Sadly, today few want to do the work that is needed to do the job right.
I agree 100% but the only thing you cannot fix are the technicians or parts changers prior to you doing the repair it's very unfortunate in our industry that those that can do it correctly usually cannot compete with the parts changers the true technicians wind up with the real nightmares and from what I've seen in all my years the customer in many cases does not understand and wanting too pay accordingly 😔
@@Go4Corvette after 52 years I'm also pretty much done but I do have shops that will call me from time to time requesting to "assist" them with their 2 week old problem lol
@@cheapers1952 I worked 44 years, 10 years of that managing/owning 3 retail stores but divorce took care of that so the last two years were with Carmax, and now I only help friends and family while I travel around the USA in my RV. Good luck.
Case in point: I had a customer with a 2004 6.0 F350 call with an erratic idle. He had changed the IPR and ICP pigtail and done a lot of work to the truck. I started from the bottom and worked my way up. On cold starts once it got to a certain point, the erratic idle would start and continue until the coolant temp got past a certain point. Once it did and stayed past that point, it ran fine all day. When I got to the top the engine and sensor list, I found his problem: it turns out he used an aftermarket IPR that caused his problem. I swapped in a Motorcraft IPR and he’s been fine ever since.
Friend laughed at me because of what I paid for the OEM fuel pump for my Mustang. He got his “brand name” fuel pump on eBay for his Explorer at 1/3 the price I paid for mine. Four months later his fuel pump died while on a family vacation. Pump was counterfeit.
Great information . Never buy cheap aftermarket parts especially when it comes to O2 sensors . Once had to change an alternator in a snow storm , 3 times until I got one that worked ! You can't imagine the anger !
We used to have certain year Fords that you would go thu multiple OE Motorcraft alternators, only to be told by a field engineer to try a NAPA one. And it worked. So, it's not just an aftermarket problem.
5-6 years ago I had an AFRS code in an F150,I don’t remember the exact code. Replaced the sensor with an aftermarket sensor and it threw the exact code again, tried a different brand-same code, went done the rabbit hole…. I finally convinced my service manager to get an OE sensor and guess what, it fixed the problem. Yes it was almost double the cost, but wasted time on the other’s.
I used to be a Ford technician 20 years ago and always ran into these issues, one time a shop replaced 2 oxigen sensors and 2 cat monitor sensors on a 2000 F150 because it was throwing lean codes, they had charged the customer something like 600 dollars and the codes were still there. Lol All it was, the PVC valve had popped off the grommet and was sucking excessive unmetered air. Shop threw the parts cannon at it though, customer was shocked when I showed him the PCV just hanging there sucking in air. 😂😂
I learned this years ago the hard way. I appreciate what you’re saying which reinforces my past experiences. To explain I had the original equipment alternator that wasn’t changing the battery. Replaced the battery as it was no good and a aftermarket alternator. A week later the new battery was not able to start the car. Took that alternator off and replaced it with another aftermarket alternator and again the battery went dead in a week. I then up my game and bought a FOMOCO alternator for $250.00 bucks and never had another charging issue with that vehicle.
That's why rebuilding components is coming back around again from what I see. And that's why I just threw a set of brushes and bearings in my alternator so it's 'rebuilt". Sure those parts could be possible junk but I figure it's less of a gamble over a new/reman component.
Most times you go to the wrecking yard, and the parts are the OEM parts! Plus you get a heck of a deal!! Of course it needs to be an older vehicle.....usually.
I agree, BUT what do you do when you can't get OEM anymore? For example my 2006 Explorer, with the recalled shift interlock electronic lockout issue. After a while the Motorcraft board goes bad, and it does not unlock the shifter to go into reverse. I searched AND searched AND searched for a replacement OEM board about a year ago...guess what I had to go with...a aftermarket dorman electronic board. Granted it a very simple board with only a few traces, but as vehicles age OEM parts are harder to find. Has worked flawless since I installed it, BUT I'm still wary of how long it will last. Simply couldn't find the OEM and I wasn't about to have the dealership destroy the interior clips and bits either.
@@FishFind3000 It's a great suggestion but on mine I found no burnt traces, corrosion, or other hard problems. My guess was a surface mounted component failed, and I didn't have the tools or experience to find / replace those parts. However I do 100% agree with repairing actual parts when possible rather than going aftermarket. Just couldn't see what was the problem with my tools and skillet
Same problem with my 07 Explorer Sport Trac, the FPDM corroded and failed. Module is no longer available from Ford, had to use Dorman unit. Same for the driveshaft when the hanger bearing fails. I'm all for using a Motorcraft part but after ten years that can be a problem with what's available.
You buy what you can get and move on with life. Come back to it if you have an issue again. I actually use quite a few Dorman parts, not because I have loyalty to them. I use them because people rag on them and call them junk. I want to see how bad they really are. Plus price difference can be 1/3-1/2 price. I actually have great luck with the stuff.
It greatly depends on the Brand of Aftermarket Auto Parts. I sold Auto Parts for 20 years. I know that not everything you get from the "Stealership" is quality either. Fine line when buying Auto Parts.
When I was a dealer tech I went threw 5 ecm’s till I got a good one, and they were factory ecm’s !! When the 1st one did not work I spent 2 days doing the check list the tech support people gave me and the next one they put a different tech on it and had him recheck all the stuff. A total night mare and I only got 4 hours customer pay and 4 from factory and I had at least 30 hours in it 🤦🏼♂️ good thing the tool box had wheels because roll it did out of that shop!!!!
I don't know why any competent technician would continue to work at a dealership today. The horror stories they tell about not getting paid for their time are frightening.
@@chiplangowski3298 it’s the belief that one has that your are working at an elite level only to find your working for the most micro managing people ever!!! It’s about the numbers!! Not the customers!! Not the expectations!!
@@chiplangowski3298 Sometimes that is why techs resort to scamming a customer for cash work so they can make time/money on jobs. Many techs get guarantee pay for the week when they lose on such jobs! The dealership doesn't care and neither does the manufacturer. If you work 40/wk, you may get 32/wk as a guarantee pay instead of the 40 hr pay. Flat rate can screw you over as a tech.
it wasn't bad 12 years ago but now i don't waste my time even now altanators,starters,shocks,especially electrical,brakes, and motor parts.litereally everything is garbage now from most aftermarket.
OEM rules! - I just got burnt on Chinese Cruise Control sw. assembly. Replaced OEM due to cracked sw. covers. Installed new switches, test drove and my horn would blow when I hit coast, it Was not interference from wires. Installed OEM switches to the new wiring and problem resolved. Never again will I buy after market electronic anything for my cars.
Love your content! Seriously big Fan and Tech that likes fixing these 5.4 and 3.5 issues to get them up and running. I tell everyone I fix cars for that specially when it comes to the electronics to not skimp on them and get OEM.
He’s correct… 2016 Expedition: Blower motor stopped working. Sourced a cheaper replacement from AutoZone; Delphi brand. Installed it, and nothing. Made sure everything was connected properly, and nothing. Ended up being a poorly designed connector that would not seat on the factory harness. In other words, the male-to-female connection would not mate; they were misaligned. 2004 Expedition: Mass airflow sensor went out. Bought a Delphi from AutoZone. Replaced the bad component. Started it, and had the same symptoms as before swapping MAF’s. After further investigation found the same scenario… connector would not completely seat because the connector pins would not align. WTF?!?! Between my wasted time. All the running around to get parts. Return parts. Go to Ford to source correct parts… I spent way too much time/ money than I had to. If you can avoid aftermarket parts do so. There is one caveat… if the OEM part is known to be a problem/ doesn’t last as long as is expected per design, then I would try to source something different. Other than that… OEM.
I have a 2012 F150 ecoboost. About once a year, i get a CEL for P0296 & P0298. I clean the map sensors with maf sensor cleaner, and the light goes away.
If I put non oem parts on my vehicles, I put the OE supplier 99% of the time. Case in point, my Mercedes-AMG needed a power steering resivor, and while the official one was $50, I bought the OE supplier, which was Lemforder. The Lemforder unit had the Mercedes-Benz part number cast into it, but they scrubbed the Mercedes-Benz logo off. I saved $30 and still got what the dealership would've put on it. I work for an auto parts store, and some of our brand of items are OE parts. We had a clock spring for an E-150 van that was a FoMoCo part and a purge valve for a Toyota that was a Denso/Toyota on the label even though it was our box.
I enjoy "The Hunt." Try to find info on OEM suppliers, then scour the internet for part numbers and hard-to-find parts. When I get that rare part in the mail I feel like a detective solving a cold case. 😏
Federal bought Moog. Now, they put Moog on their parts box, along with the rest of the logos of the brands they own, and call their Federal car part a Moog part. A parts store tried to do this to me and said "It's the same thing." I told him "No, a Moog part is built like a tank. This Federal part is built like a twig, and in China. You keep it." Now I buy Ford parts when I can.
Just replaced my FoMoCo made in China water pump with 79000 on it in my 2016 F-150, not impressed with the reliability so I went with a Napa tru-flow. Hopefully it will last longer. I would however agree totally on electric use parts; sensors, processors, etc., buy oem whenever possible.
Many times customers find me after they changed out all the better quality oem parts using aftermarket junk then find me to chase down the original fault. After spending hours removing all the bannana left from the monkeys i find the problem but the customer already ran out of money. Had one customer insist on using a lifetime warranty starter on a 7.3 when the real problem was stripped out mounting bolts from repeated starter changes... sigh
I long for the days where you could go to town and get what you needed from NAPA and know it would work. Sadly they had to relax stds to compete on price.☹️
Avoid Advance and Autozone parts at all costs. They stock the absolute cheapest made replacement parts available. Especially electrical parts. Rockauto is the first and usually the only place I purchase parts anymore. They supply enough information to make a more informed decision on the quality of the item I'm looking for. They carry top quality options, down to economy options to save money.
We’ve seen aftermarket thermostats freak out the temperature gauges on newer Chevy Colorados and aftermarket MAF sensors do really crazy crap. I’m a Ford guy and I use only OE or rebuild. I always say NO to Dorman parts.
One has to think about all the cars and trucks out there with faulty aftermarket parts because they were the lowest bidder. The standard of what should be right is so deteriorated today its constantly a crap shoot to repair your vehicle. Alternator I bought from Napa caught on fire and almost burnt my van down. Thankfully a kid on a skateboad was going by and put the fire out with his water bottle.
I've gotten parts from NAPA and had them come out of a napa box with a ford logo on the part. Also had stuff dead wrong. Best was a threaded sensor where the threads were all concentric rings with no pitch. Thankfully have a local alternator rebuilder here and they are top notch. Need to source the unobtanium ford focus starter gasket, they have them.
2 reman and 1 new alternator from parts stores DOA. Spent $25 for an alternator at junk yard and vehicle runs fine.... thank goodness it was 10 minute job.
Chrysler had this problem for a while. The after market O2 sensor was so out of spec that it cause O2 errors with a new one installed. You had to go get an OEM O2 sensor for it to work.
Absolutely true! I've found that brand-new non-OEM stuff is often way out of spec for resistance values, etc, even on reputable aftermarket brands. "What do you mean the TPS is throwing the same code, I just replaced it" 🤣
I’m not a big fan of aftermarket parts but occasionally have to use them since one of the vehicles I have is a 2007 Grande Marquis and some parts take weeks to get. This winter I had to replace the heater motor resistor with an aftermarket part and it doesn’t work like the OE part and occasionally the battery will go dead if the car sits a few days. Hard to go without a heater in the winter but I will be replacing that part with the Ford part.
I had issues with both the cam and crankshaft sensors on my 97 Dodge Grand Caravan. Changed them twice as they failed within two weeks. Oem parts put the problem to bed.
Same here with an oil pressure switch on my 2000 Town & Country. Wasted time and money on the "Standard" brand, which set the light at idle because it was miscalibrated. Bought a Mopar switch and never had another problem.
I learned my lesson with aftermarket electronics when I had to replace the Neutral Safety switch on my F-150 and just bought a Duralast from Auto Zone. Started and ran just fine from park, but one day, I decided to test the 4wd, including 4L, and it would not shift into 4L. Tried starting the truck in Neutral, and it wouldn't start, so I ordered a Motorcraft replacement from Rock Auto. No more issues after that. When I first bought my truck, I bought the Duralast coil packs, and while I haven't had issues for over 50,000 miles, I definitely don't expect them to last as long as the Motorcraft. When they go out, I'm going to at least buy the brand that makes the coils for Motorcraft (Denso, if I remember correctly).
AFTERMARKET parts are eating our lunch even with a good diagnosis. This one should have been caught, but many are not so easy. Like a crank sensor causing a Toyota to turn off injectors because it sees a misfire from an aftermarket crank sensor. From a no start to a ghost misfire. OEM part fixed it after a bunch of wasted time. We should be able to make them pay for that time. Shop are dead set against OEM parts mostly because of the time to get them and the Dealer phone ringing for ever then being on hold a half hour...What a mess this industry is.
I've seen so many after market sensors that just don't work at all. Cranks sensors, cam sensors, Air fuel ratio sensors, 02 sensors, knock sensors that just leave you with the same problem.
Over here in Australia - the OEM stuff just isn't available. It's aftermarket or broken over here unfortunately. So we have to find out what aftermarket parts are the best available (or buy from the USA at 3 times the cost plus the same in shipping costs. A 200 part in the USA costs us 600 + 600 shipping, and a 3 month wait most of the time and even then, they can't match it to our VIN numbers anyway. Its much much more difficult for us.
Recently I installed a "standard motor products" power steering pressure sensor on a 08 F150 , it caused the truck to no start or run horribly. I popped it the oem ford pressure sensor and it ran perfectly again. Super easy to go down a rabbit hole of changing other parts. Thankfully I knew better. Not long ago I installed a NTK crank sensor on a dodge stratus , the car would barely stay running. I put the oem crank sensor back in and it ran great... you really cant trust aftermarket crap.
You probably have to use a scan tool for the NTK sensor or any new sensor to calibrate/synchronize them. I believe Ford has an option for that on my Autel maxisys but not sure on Dodge.
Fuel sending unit faulty on original 5.4 3v 07 Navigator swapped out with "compatible" aftermarket fuel pump and aftermarket fuel filter very reasonable price on 1Aauto, eventually got P2272, thought O2 sensor nope, thought MAF nope, vacuum leaks nope, fuel pump PSI on rail using gauge 58, long term fuel trims very high at load 15+ percent both banks, fuel pressure didn't drop on wide open throttle, baro was off thought ground issues, chasing my tail, I didn't want to drop tank again, I asked for help via scannerdanner forum, feedback was PSI should be 65-71 NOT 58! I like the job so I'm doing it twice (insert sarcasm). I ordered correct OEM Motorcraft fuel pump and filter via Rockauto, it's 70 PSI all day, fuel trims close to zero. Fought with A1auto about their "compatible" fuel pump, gave me the run around, no refund on electronic parts, but after tons of back and forth they did the right thing and refunded me. I like learning the hard way ugh.
One of the things that can be done [not saying it is] to combat chinesium fraudelence these days is to embed errors in specs or drawings so that when they go out the front door... the fakes are wrong, or contain a meaningless feature different from the OEM spec actually used. Real dimensions can be called in to legit vendors. Case in point, I replaced a door handle recently, and it re-uses the original key cylinder which simply inserts, then twists in [maybe 15 degrees] and the attacthment bolt secures both in place at the same time. But... keyway was not molded properly - last 4 or 5 degrees of rotation needed was not possible. Fortunately, plastic cuts easily, and I increased the depth of the keyway maybe 2mm so full rotation could occur [I used a hacksaw blade]. But imagine this 20 minute job being sidetracked for the required customization/fitment needed at a repair shop: a half hour labor is added, which behaves much the same as paying at least double market value for the part. Are OEM parts more... or less exensive, knowing that? Choose wisely.
I had a similar experience working on an E36 M3. Check engine light was on and indicated possible unmetered air coming in. Replaced the MAF with a Delphi MAF for $120 as the OEM one was $400+. Was okay for 100 miles or so and check engine light came on for a range of other codes including O2 sensor, etc. O2 sensors and other parts were replaced and no change. Finally found a used BMW MAF and swapped it in, and all was good. The Delphi MAF was likely giving wrong readings and throwing everything else downstream off.
Another great video. During my time as a Ford Parts Manager I discovered that a high percentage of aftermarket electronic parts were incompatible with the vehicle or dead out of the box. If the part was Dorman brand it was even worse. Motorcraft parts have a 2 year unlimited mile warranty, why not use them? They were designed for the vehicle. Also there are way too many do it yourselfers working on vehicle systems that they know absolutely nothing about. This video is a perfect example of that. Brian, as always, keep up the good work.
I can really tell how much this bothered you by your voice. I really respect a person who is passionate about their work and helping others..god bless.
One point here. Its NOT that aftermarket parts are always junk. They arent. IF you can identify the OE supplier, you can get the same part without the "Motorcraft markup". I actually go out of my way to avoid using Ford OEM parts where possible. I resent Fords rudiculous prices in OE parts, many of which should not have failed to start. (Like the rear hub bearing on my 38k mile Mustang GT-conveniently just out of warranty). The REAL issue is QC practices. Before everything got chased offshore by genius politicians and their tax and regulation BS, we didnt have these problems. US aftermarket suppliers were pretty damn solid. Of course, if youre under 50 you dont remember that. BUT its still possible to get non Ford branded parts at Non Ford extortion prices. You just have to do your diligence. If yiure running a busy shop, that may not be a possibility as it requires time to research and vet the parts and suppliers. Someone suggested Rock Auto as a good way to short cut this. I agree. Ive had good success with Rock Auto sourced, non OEM parts. Its really a matter of time. If youre a working pro, you havent got any. If youre retired or a hobbyist it can DEFINITELY be worthwhile and save some cash.
This is a generalization but when you can find OEM or parts that are same or better, you usually don't have an issue. But you get what you pay for with parts that are cheap in price...for a reason. And with China pumping out IP knockoffs, you know, the AliXpress or cheap parts online reseller...you really need to do your homework on part numbers and sources, let alone forum searches for any correlations to failures.
HEY BRIAN. Help me please!. I have a 2007 Lincoln MKZ, 190K on it. The A/C stopped working months ago. I payed a local shop to replace the AC compressor, transducer ac switch. I replaced the evap temp sensor from watching your video, I’m almost $1800 into this problem and the shop told me they can’t fix it, my A/C now works intermittently, the shop says they did their part and maybe I should go somewhere else. I was thinking about buying a topdon scan tool so I can get live data from the A/C module. Also learned that from you. Please help any advise is greatly appreciated thank you!.
ALWAYS call around for prices, including your local dealers. They sometimes offer OEM parts for LESS than O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, etc. Worth spending the time doing your research before you buy.
Speaking of electronics, anyone familiar with the average lifespan of F-series wheel speed sensors? My 18 F150 w/60,000 is showing “service AdvanceTrac/no hill.” I foolishly ran a bad battery for a month trying to avoid buying a new battery in zero degree conditions. I probably jump started the 3.5 half a dozen times. And that’s when “service AT” came up and I lost my cruise control. I’m ASSuming a wheel speed censor coincidentally went out at that time of minimal driving, or I may have messed something up electronically.
I was working on my Dad's Nissan Frontier so he could make it to his dialysis appointments, it was throwing a P0340 code for the Passenger intake camshaft sensor. We ordered a new cheapo sensor from Rockauto, and then it started throwing a P0011 code. So then I thought maybe it jumped time because it wouldn't start at all and was making a terrible clacking noise. So after some deliberation, we decided to re-order this sensor, but this time we ordered the NTK (japanese brand, same company as NGK) and guess what? Its fixed. The clacking noise was a loose heat shield on the exhaust. NEVER cheap out on sensors. Buy OEM, or buy American or Japanese. Skip the chinese crap.
Good evening, chat. In a none related question. I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 with the 6 bolt crankshaft. It's a manual transmission. Could I use an 8 bolts crank with my 4.6 manuel transmission? I know I would need to change the flywheel. But would the clutch work with the 8 bolt? Thanks
I think the biggest thing people are not aware of, are counterfeit after market and OEM parts. These are now even creeping into the local parts store, and not just on eBay and Amazon. So watch yourself, you can't live in bliss (ignorance) if you are buying a part at a store, make sure it looks quality and even then make sure of the return policies. If your car is newer, or still under warranty, always go with OEM from the dealer. buy from reputable sources, this doesn't mean pep-boys. It means from a trusted source and confirm it is what it is. Even after all of this, you might get junk, because even the legit makers now are struggling. People wanna chirp about "supply lines" but they are totally in bliss (ignorant) over how the parts makers (OEM AND AFTERMARKET) have lost their skilled technical force of labor since covid, and have been replaced by people who either don't know, don't care, or can't do.
The scary thing is Motorcraft is discontinuing a lot of parts for non-current platforms. I'm working on a 2003 Mustang GT 4.6 with a bad IAC valve, which frequently fail on these modular engines. The experts who really know these engines (like FordTechMakuloco) will tell you that cleaning these IAC's is a very temporary fix at best. The only way to consistently solve the problem is to replace the IAC with the Motorcraft part. Good luck finding one today. After searching all my different parts sources, I tried 3 aftermarket brands, none of which worked satisfactorily, even after resetting the KAM and taking the time to relearn the adaptations each time. Out of desperation, I found a Motorcraft IAC on ebay that was new but not in the original packaging. This one fixed the problem so I got lucky. Between Mustangs, Crown Vics, etc, there are millions of these engines out there so it seems like this will be a major problem going forward.
That's all fine and good if your car isn't nearly 20 years old. You must rely on aftermarket, dealership can't get them because they no longer make them through Ford. I have an 07 Expedition and have run into this problem. 2012, yeah it's old enough to have the same problem if you're doing it at home.
Regardless if it's a new Ford part or not, just because it's new doesn't mean it good (working part). The days of going to the Ford parts desk or the auto parts store and knowing your getting a tested working new part is beyond over with. If you look at may of the electrical parts on housing they are stamped with "Scrap if Dropped" Do you really think the people that handled these parts carefully picked up and moved that box around right up to the point it was handed to you?
So many bad parts now. No OEM left for my 88 Camaro- Delco is always other parts (got two ball joints- both were different brands). Last year alone, I had bad NEW AC Delco parts: PS pump, throttle position sensor, and alternator.
Needed a RR brake caliper for a 2017 Nissan Titan. Needed it quick so tried AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance, all they had was a 2piston caliper while the original was a single piston caliper. So called the closest Nissan dealer - they could have one there in two days, but before I ordered it I asked how many pistons it had, and they said two. Finally went to RockAuto and they had a Raybestos caliper that matched the original Nissan one. So much for always going OEM!
Code c1440eo 2014 f150, have to charge HCH, brake light switch ok ! Inner switch reading over 40 psi with no brake applied ! Wish there was a replacement for that pressure switch ! Going to install a used hydraulic unit.
I always try to buy OEM parts, recently I had that coolant y pipe on a 2018 5.0 leaking, we bought the OEM part and it seemed slightly small and would not seal, but another one off Amazon, same thing, then I bought a Dorman cast aluminum part, and it was perfect. I dont get it. Somehow Dorman saved the day.
Also never throw a part away until you 100% sure that you actually fixed the problem with the new part.
Even with small equipment engines, OEM is the way to go in most cases. The extra cost is almost always worth it. After market made in China has its value at times. It’s my last resort.
I appreciate the speedy reply. Keep it up with your valuable videos.
I had the same issue on my 2014 Taurus. I had replaced the oxygen sensor with a Bosch one and the code came right back. Took it to a shop and they didn't see anything wrong, but they recommended replacing with a Denso. I changed it with a Denso and haven't had the issue since.
Lots of problems on those 3.5 Taurus. Not the worst car that Foed made, which ain’t saying much. They basically had to get out of making cars because recalls were costing them too much.
You can now add the Chev Malibu to that list. This is the last year that GM is building it. Remember the Chev Malibu 396 SS, oh well😢
I agree to a certain degree. Certain critical things should be oem. However there are cases where oem is junk. But O2 i never bought stock. Example, 01 S4, Bosch unit is 110, a factory one is 250ea, 2 needed. The car ran great with 220 worth of o2 sensors vs 500. You have to make sure they are real Bosch units. I found a killer deal once on amazon. 30ea vs 56 rockauto. They came in dusty Bosch boxes that were 12yrs old and sensors didnt say bosch on them as usual. I sent them back. The scammers then lied that they only received 1 box. I lost 75. I went back to rockauto.
Some stuff can be after market like i have bilstins in my f150. Wonder shocks way better then stock. But i wouldnt buy a autozone or ebay timing chain tensioner. Even though Fords is prob made in the factory across the street, lol
Don’t ever use aftermarket timing components on an ecoboost. Did it once and learned the hard way after having to pay 10x as much for a new engine as the oem parts would have cost. Failed after 6 months fully stretching the timing chain and shearing the “woodruff key” off of the crank. Could have maybe fixed that engine for 5x or 6x the cost of the oem parts but opted for the new engine from Ford and not one of those shady aftermarket engine suppliers.
Any place you can recommend for after market lighting.Looking to install smoked side marker lights
What brand and model do you suggest for powerful and coated and last long time the rotors+hub front, rear disk, pad, caliper front and rear for 2003 Ford E450 Super Duty 14,000 GROSS WEIGHT box truck rear dually wheels?
Some of my Fords are so old FoMoCo doesn’t support them anymore.
The old saying goes, "BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE."
Going down the rabbit hole, I found out that Bosch makes Motorcraft O2 sensors. I can tell you for a fact that Motorcraft DOES NOT make the wheel hub bearings for the 2020 and up Explorers. Those are made at my plant. Most F150 differential bearings are made at my plant. Some of the new Mustang hub bearings are made at my plant. Soon, the new F150 Lightning EV truck hub bearings are going to be made at my plant and I don't work for Ford or Motorcraft.
SKF, Timken or other?
@@78vman other
Most aftermarket parts are junk! People bring them to me after the parts cannon has exploded under the hood. The first thing I ask is "Do you have the old parts?" so I can put it back like it was and start troubleshooting with the original problem. Thanks!
Especially for sensors / electronics
I work on appliances and do the same thing
Yep, I run Toyotas and Hondas, but every time I try to save money with an aftermarket part, surprise surprise within 20-40 thousand miles I am going back in there to replace it with an OEM part.
@@chkpik Exactly! Thanks!
There's quality aftermarket parts(which are usually OE suppliers), and then there is the cheapest thing people can find. Big difference..
like a Bosch O2 or ngk plug, just watch for fake parts
I learned a long time ago not to buy aftermarket electric parts for cars because a lot of the time they either don’t work straight out of the box or fail soon after.
Yep, I'll take used OE's over a cheapo aftermarket. Especially a critical part like an O2, maf sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor...
A 5 minute search will tell you who makes the OE one and save you 50-75%
@@volvo09 I do this a lot. I live next to a you pull yard though.
Lol the shop is cheap, they've put a 3rd aftermarket coil in 3yrs on the #5 hole on the 6.2 in the f250 work truck.
I 100% agree, anything electronic must be OEM, especially MAP & MAF sensors 100% failure rate on after market when I watch videos on this stuff.
I luckily have never needed to diagnose or trace down a bad O2, but this is amazing knowledge to have. No one believes me when I say parts can be ‘bad’ out of the box where ‘bad’ doesn’t necessarily mean broken but more so just not ‘calibrated’ correctly when dealing with electronics.
That can really throw people for a loop, when a new part doesn't get along with the computer so the code you were chasing either stays, or changes to something related but different. Due to an incompatible part.
Unfortunately alot parts are discontinued from ford and have to use the crappy parts store garbage.
Used OEM parts are ok
I used to use aftermarket a lot for my vehicles but have come to the point where I rarely do, as I’ve found they often don’t even fit right, let alone function properly.
it's in your head. OEM changes each contract.
@@davidporter7051 I’ve started to get aftermarket junk that doesn’t physically fit. Haven’t had that happen yet with OEM but I’m sure it’s coming.
New OEM parts can be lemons as well... not as often, but it does happen.
Especially Ford parts.
Yes the OEM parts are junk as well. Just found my (2000) Grand prix has broken front sway bar , it's HOLLOW NOT SOLID. aftermarket is solid. Every thing nowadays is JUNK.
This is why I love when Rock Auto specifies when a non-Motorcraft part is the OE provider. Can get the right part, a better price, and in the case of brake calipers, sometimes a better warranty
I'll second that!
In the vw world theres a great place to source your parts from , because they do the same thing and you can get oe or oem parts from them.
So how many good OEM parts were replaced with inferior parts? Shouldn't this video be titled?: " Pay for a diagnosis. DO NOT fire the parts cannon."
Rockauto is one of the few aftermarket sites that's still trustworthy and not totally swamped with counterfeit junk.
@@TheOverisel I tell people all the time "Just pay for an hour or two of diagnostics before you start throwing the parts store at it!" But nobody ever listens.
I’ve seen issues like this with 02 sensors even on old Fords as well.
Case in point a 1989 5.0 Mustang. Quick look on RockAuto for example shows several brands of 02 sensors are available for that vehicle.
In my case the car had replacement Bosch 02’s installed and had some drivability quirks. Was able to monitor voltages coming out of them and they were erratic in their output. Replaced them with the OE sensors (which were NTK) and the problem was fixed and the drivability quirks went away.
Since that experience I always tell folks if they have to replace 02s to get them from the dealer or at the very least verify the brand Ford used and replace with that brand and part number.
I got burned twice with parts on bmws. It’s not worth the hassle. First was a cam position sensor and the new replacement ran worse then the bad original with 200k+ miles. Next was a thermostat that was defective and making me chase my tail on what else was wrong.
Turns out when the computer tells you the thermostat is defective even after you replaced it 2 times it’s actually still defective 😂😂😂 😭😭
I got a bad MAF sensor for my wife’s BMW that didn’t even have an element in it..
It was just a Chinese scam piece..
Did you test the thermostat before installing? I usually do this if it's a hard to access job.
You are one of the few that do the job correctly. I started in the 1980s out of school with GM. I loved it, I got factory training which was the best. We were trained to always run the flow chart tests and never skip anything just because we had seen a problem before. For customer satisfaction, I was part of a team of only 1500 technicians nationwide our job was to find and fix driveability problems that the dealer could not figure out so GM could improve customer satisfaction. There was not one problem we did not fix. The factory always had the latest design and if any updates were needed you got them in the new part. Some problems would not be part of a recall as they did not meet that criteria. The aftermarket electronic part was always about ten years behind the factory part. Many of my customer's cars would have drivability problems that they never complained about but when I would replace a module to fix some other problem with the newest updated model they would tell me the car had never run better. With the aftermarket part, the car would run but would still have the driveability problems of not being updated. Most of the time you get what you pay for. Technicians I see today seem to just want to be parts R&R guys and just replace the part that the computer code is related to and never run the tests to see if it is really bad or some other problem. Sadly, today few want to do the work that is needed to do the job right.
Just for laughs the problem you cannot fix was the technicians prior to you looking at the vehicles😅
I agree 100% but the only thing you cannot fix are the technicians or parts changers prior to you doing the repair it's very unfortunate in our industry that those that can do it correctly usually cannot compete with the parts changers the true technicians wind up with the real nightmares and from what I've seen in all my years the customer in many cases does not understand and wanting too pay accordingly 😔
@@cheapers1952 I am retired now, so the kids must deal with it.
@@Go4Corvette after 52 years I'm also pretty much done but I do have shops that will call me from time to time requesting to "assist" them with their 2 week old problem lol
@@cheapers1952 I worked 44 years, 10 years of that managing/owning 3 retail stores but divorce took care of that so the last two years were with Carmax, and now I only help friends and family while I travel around the USA in my RV. Good luck.
Case in point: I had a customer with a 2004 6.0 F350 call with an erratic idle. He had changed the IPR and ICP pigtail and done a lot of work to the truck. I started from the bottom and worked my way up. On cold starts once it got to a certain point, the erratic idle would start and continue until the coolant temp got past a certain point. Once it did and stayed past that point, it ran fine all day. When I got to the top the engine and sensor list, I found his problem: it turns out he used an aftermarket IPR that caused his problem. I swapped in a Motorcraft IPR and he’s been fine ever since.
Friend laughed at me because of what I paid for the OEM fuel pump for my Mustang.
He got his “brand name” fuel pump on eBay for his Explorer at 1/3 the price I paid for mine.
Four months later his fuel pump died while on a family vacation. Pump was counterfeit.
Counterfeit parts are a *huge* problem, and growing. I have a hard time trusting ebay automotive sellers now, and I'm an ebay veteran.
Lol 😆
Brian, you're the best technician out there. Experience and honesty have served you and all your customers well.
Great information . Never buy cheap aftermarket parts especially when it comes to O2 sensors . Once had to change an alternator in a snow storm , 3 times until I got one that worked !
You can't imagine the anger !
Sounds like Pep Boys parts!!
We used to have certain year Fords that you would go thu multiple OE Motorcraft alternators, only to be told by a field engineer to try a NAPA one. And it worked. So, it's not just an aftermarket problem.
5-6 years ago I had an AFRS code in an F150,I don’t remember the exact code. Replaced the sensor with an aftermarket sensor and it threw the exact code again, tried a different brand-same code, went done the rabbit hole…. I finally convinced my service manager to get an OE sensor and guess what, it fixed the problem. Yes it was almost double the cost, but wasted time on the other’s.
Same with an ‘05 Solara cooling temp sensor for fans . Two new aftermarket’s before a costlier oem sensor fixed it . Go figure !
In Canada where dealer labor rates are $180 plus it wouldn’t take long to exceed the cost of an OEM part. Might as well just go OEM to begin with.
I used to be a Ford technician 20 years ago and always ran into these issues, one time a shop replaced 2 oxigen sensors and 2 cat monitor sensors on a 2000 F150 because it was throwing lean codes, they had charged the customer something like 600 dollars and the codes were still there. Lol
All it was, the PVC valve had popped off the grommet and was sucking excessive unmetered air. Shop threw the parts cannon at it though, customer was shocked when I showed him the PCV just hanging there sucking in air. 😂😂
Four Denso ignition coils for my Corolla on EBAY for just $60? What a deal! Gimme More, more, more!
I learned this years ago the hard way. I appreciate what you’re saying which reinforces my past experiences. To explain I had the original equipment alternator that wasn’t changing the battery. Replaced the battery as it was no good and a aftermarket alternator. A week later the new battery was not able to start the car. Took that alternator off and replaced it with another aftermarket alternator and again the battery went dead in a week. I then up my game and bought a FOMOCO alternator for $250.00 bucks and never had another charging issue with that vehicle.
I have experienced the same thing with alternators also.
Starters and alternators, no chain stores for me. Used , high quality aftermarket such as Denso or oem.
That's why rebuilding components is coming back around again from what I see.
And that's why I just threw a set of brushes and bearings in my alternator so it's 'rebuilt".
Sure those parts could be possible junk but I figure it's less of a gamble over a new/reman component.
Most times you go to the wrecking yard, and the parts are the OEM parts! Plus you get a heck of a deal!! Of course it needs to be an older vehicle.....usually.
I agree, BUT what do you do when you can't get OEM anymore? For example my 2006 Explorer, with the recalled shift interlock electronic lockout issue. After a while the Motorcraft board goes bad, and it does not unlock the shifter to go into reverse. I searched AND searched AND searched for a replacement OEM board about a year ago...guess what I had to go with...a aftermarket dorman electronic board. Granted it a very simple board with only a few traces, but as vehicles age OEM parts are harder to find. Has worked flawless since I installed it, BUT I'm still wary of how long it will last. Simply couldn't find the OEM and I wasn't about to have the dealership destroy the interior clips and bits either.
And you able to repair the oem board? Solder on some new wire to fix the burnt traces.
@@FishFind3000 It's a great suggestion but on mine I found no burnt traces, corrosion, or other hard problems. My guess was a surface mounted component failed, and I didn't have the tools or experience to find / replace those parts. However I do 100% agree with repairing actual parts when possible rather than going aftermarket. Just couldn't see what was the problem with my tools and skillet
@Chris-eh3du although doorman is aftermarket, it is much better than some Chinese brands that aren't even real words.
Same problem with my 07 Explorer Sport Trac, the FPDM corroded and failed. Module is no longer available from Ford, had to use Dorman unit. Same for the driveshaft when the hanger bearing fails.
I'm all for using a Motorcraft part but after ten years that can be a problem with what's available.
You buy what you can get and move on with life. Come back to it if you have an issue again. I actually use quite a few Dorman parts, not because I have loyalty to them. I use them because people rag on them and call them junk. I want to see how bad they really are. Plus price difference can be 1/3-1/2 price. I actually have great luck with the stuff.
Wish all mechanics had this guys knowledge! And ran their business in the same manner!
It greatly depends on the Brand of Aftermarket Auto Parts. I sold Auto Parts for 20 years. I know that not everything you get from the "Stealership" is quality either. Fine line when buying Auto Parts.
The game has dramatically changed in the past 4 years....
When I was a dealer tech I went threw 5 ecm’s till I got a good one, and they were factory ecm’s !! When the 1st one did not work I spent 2 days doing the check list the tech support people gave me and the next one they put a different tech on it and had him recheck all the stuff. A total night mare and I only got 4 hours customer pay and 4 from factory and I had at least 30 hours in it 🤦🏼♂️ good thing the tool box had wheels because roll it did out of that shop!!!!
I don't know why any competent technician would continue to work at a dealership today. The horror stories they tell about not getting paid for their time are frightening.
@@chiplangowski3298 it’s the belief that one has that your are working at an elite level only to find your working for the most micro managing people ever!!! It’s about the numbers!! Not the customers!! Not the expectations!!
@@chiplangowski3298 Sometimes that is why techs resort to scamming a customer for cash work so they can make time/money on jobs. Many techs get guarantee pay for the week when they lose on such jobs! The dealership doesn't care and neither does the manufacturer. If you work 40/wk, you may get 32/wk as a guarantee pay instead of the 40 hr pay. Flat rate can screw you over as a tech.
I recently got burned on some premium NAPA parts. Never again
NAPA is just selling the same low quality parts as the rest these days
it wasn't bad 12 years ago but now i don't waste my time even now altanators,starters,shocks,especially electrical,brakes, and motor parts.litereally everything is garbage now from most aftermarket.
OEM rules! - I just got burnt on Chinese Cruise Control sw. assembly. Replaced OEM due to cracked sw. covers. Installed new switches, test drove and my horn would blow when I hit coast, it Was not interference from wires. Installed OEM switches to the new wiring and problem resolved. Never again will I buy after market electronic anything for my cars.
Love your content! Seriously big Fan and Tech that likes fixing these 5.4 and 3.5 issues to get them up and running. I tell everyone I fix cars for that specially when it comes to the electronics to not skimp on them and get OEM.
A USED OE part is better than a new aftermarket in most cases. Utter garbage out there.
He’s correct…
2016 Expedition:
Blower motor stopped working. Sourced a cheaper replacement from AutoZone; Delphi brand. Installed it, and nothing. Made sure everything was connected properly, and nothing. Ended up being a poorly designed connector that would not seat on the factory harness. In other words, the male-to-female connection would not mate; they were misaligned.
2004 Expedition:
Mass airflow sensor went out. Bought a Delphi from AutoZone. Replaced the bad component. Started it, and had the same symptoms as before swapping MAF’s. After further investigation found the same scenario… connector would not completely seat because the connector pins would not align.
WTF?!?! Between my wasted time. All the running around to get parts. Return parts. Go to Ford to source correct parts… I spent way too much time/ money than I had to.
If you can avoid aftermarket parts do so. There is one caveat… if the OEM part is known to be a problem/ doesn’t last as long as is expected per design, then I would try to source something different. Other than that… OEM.
I have a 2012 F150 ecoboost. About once a year, i get a CEL for P0296 & P0298. I clean the map sensors with maf sensor cleaner, and the light goes away.
If I put non oem parts on my vehicles, I put the OE supplier 99% of the time. Case in point, my Mercedes-AMG needed a power steering resivor, and while the official one was $50, I bought the OE supplier, which was Lemforder. The Lemforder unit had the Mercedes-Benz part number cast into it, but they scrubbed the Mercedes-Benz logo off. I saved $30 and still got what the dealership would've put on it.
I work for an auto parts store, and some of our brand of items are OE parts. We had a clock spring for an E-150 van that was a FoMoCo part and a purge valve for a Toyota that was a Denso/Toyota on the label even though it was our box.
NGK is a OE supplier for some models.
I enjoy "The Hunt." Try to find info on OEM suppliers, then scour the internet for part numbers and hard-to-find parts. When I get that rare part in the mail I feel like a detective solving a cold case. 😏
Federal bought Moog. Now, they put Moog on their parts box, along with the rest of the logos of the brands they own, and call their Federal car part a Moog part. A parts store tried to do this to me and said "It's the same thing." I told him "No, a Moog part is built like a tank. This Federal part is built like a twig, and in China. You keep it." Now I buy Ford parts when I can.
Just replaced my FoMoCo made in China water pump with 79000 on it in my 2016 F-150, not impressed with the reliability so I went with a Napa tru-flow. Hopefully it will last longer. I would however agree totally on electric use parts; sensors, processors, etc., buy oem whenever possible.
Many times customers find me after they changed out all the better quality oem parts using aftermarket junk then find me to chase down the original fault. After spending hours removing all the bannana left from the monkeys i find the problem but the customer already ran out of money. Had one customer insist on using a lifetime warranty starter on a 7.3 when the real problem was stripped out mounting bolts from repeated starter changes... sigh
I long for the days where you could go to town and get what you needed from NAPA and know it would work. Sadly they had to relax stds to compete on price.☹️
Avoid Advance and Autozone parts at all costs. They stock the absolute cheapest made replacement parts available. Especially electrical parts. Rockauto is the first and usually the only place I purchase parts anymore. They supply enough information to make a more informed decision on the quality of the item I'm looking for. They carry top quality options, down to economy options to save money.
We’ve seen aftermarket thermostats freak out the temperature gauges on newer Chevy Colorados and aftermarket MAF sensors do really crazy crap. I’m a Ford guy and I use only OE or rebuild. I always say NO to Dorman parts.
I REALLY need to quit messing around and get a laptop with a live feed scanner my sct is good and all but really lacks in selection 😮💨
One has to think about all the cars and trucks out there with faulty aftermarket parts because they were the lowest bidder. The standard of what should be right is so deteriorated today its constantly a crap shoot to repair your vehicle. Alternator I bought from Napa caught on fire and almost burnt my van down. Thankfully a kid on a skateboad was going by and put the fire out with his water bottle.
I've gotten parts from NAPA and had them come out of a napa box with a ford logo on the part. Also had stuff dead wrong. Best was a threaded sensor where the threads were all concentric rings with no pitch. Thankfully have a local alternator rebuilder here and they are top notch. Need to source the unobtanium ford focus starter gasket, they have them.
2 reman and 1 new alternator from parts stores DOA. Spent $25 for an alternator at junk yard and vehicle runs fine.... thank goodness it was 10 minute job.
Growing up in Ontario we didn’t have much money so we often went to the junk yard to get replacement parts, seems to be a lost art nowadays.
Thanks to your video's, I only use Motorcraft parts on my 2013 Ford F-150. No regrets!
Smart choice!
And I bet you go through a lot of parts .lol
Chrysler had this problem for a while. The after market O2 sensor was so out of spec that it cause O2 errors with a new one installed. You had to go get an OEM O2 sensor for it to work.
It really depends on what it is. Do you NEED an OEM side mirror? Nope, not really. Do you NEED an OEM sensor? I would say yes.
First rule of swaptronics....Don't play swaptronics. 2nd rule of swaptronics, if you decide to violate rule 1, at least use a KNOWN good part.
NEW=Never Ever Worked..this is especially true for cheap Chinesium parts.
Absolutely true! I've found that brand-new non-OEM stuff is often way out of spec for resistance values, etc, even on reputable aftermarket brands.
"What do you mean the TPS is throwing the same code, I just replaced it" 🤣
If an OEM part lasts a good long time, I replace it with the same OEM part. If the OEM is known to be junk then I look into the aftermarket parts
I’m not a big fan of aftermarket parts but occasionally have to use them since one of the vehicles I have is a 2007 Grande Marquis and some parts take weeks to get. This winter I had to replace the heater motor resistor with an aftermarket part and it doesn’t work like the OE part and occasionally the battery will go dead if the car sits a few days. Hard to go without a heater in the winter but I will be replacing that part with the Ford part.
I had issues with both the cam and crankshaft sensors on my 97 Dodge Grand Caravan. Changed them twice as they failed within two weeks. Oem parts put the problem to bed.
Same here with an oil pressure switch on my 2000 Town & Country. Wasted time and money on the "Standard" brand, which set the light at idle because it was miscalibrated. Bought a Mopar switch and never had another problem.
I would say at least go with an OE equivalent, like a Bosch or Denso.
I learned my lesson with aftermarket electronics when I had to replace the Neutral Safety switch on my F-150 and just bought a Duralast from Auto Zone. Started and ran just fine from park, but one day, I decided to test the 4wd, including 4L, and it would not shift into 4L. Tried starting the truck in Neutral, and it wouldn't start, so I ordered a Motorcraft replacement from Rock Auto. No more issues after that.
When I first bought my truck, I bought the Duralast coil packs, and while I haven't had issues for over 50,000 miles, I definitely don't expect them to last as long as the Motorcraft. When they go out, I'm going to at least buy the brand that makes the coils for Motorcraft (Denso, if I remember correctly).
shoot ive got fake motorcraft stuff off ebay and amazon. super frustrating
I'm curious who tuned it? Obviously it has a tune with the intake.
Can't wait for the next video, FordTechMakuloco
👍
CANNY, FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 00:21AM Good night 😴 🥱 🌃
I went through 3 maff sensors just to get a good one because there is no more oem ones for a 03 6.0
AFTERMARKET parts are eating our lunch even with a good diagnosis. This one should have been caught, but many are not so easy. Like a crank sensor causing a Toyota to turn off injectors because it sees a misfire from an aftermarket crank sensor. From a no start to a ghost misfire. OEM part fixed it after a bunch of wasted time.
We should be able to make them pay for that time.
Shop are dead set against OEM parts mostly because of the time to get them and the Dealer phone ringing for ever then being on hold a half hour...What a mess this industry is.
I only use NOS parts on my cars
I've seen so many after market sensors that just don't work at all. Cranks sensors, cam sensors, Air fuel ratio sensors, 02 sensors, knock sensors that just leave you with the same problem.
Over here in Australia - the OEM stuff just isn't available. It's aftermarket or broken over here unfortunately. So we have to find out what aftermarket parts are the best available (or buy from the USA at 3 times the cost plus the same in shipping costs.
A 200 part in the USA costs us 600 + 600 shipping, and a 3 month wait most of the time and even then, they can't match it to our VIN numbers anyway. Its much much more difficult for us.
Soon in Australia most Gas cars will be illegal as in Europe and many States of the USA...
Where's the best place we can buy beforemarket parts?
Recently I installed a "standard motor products" power steering pressure sensor on a 08 F150 , it caused the truck to no start or run horribly. I popped it the oem ford pressure sensor and it ran perfectly again. Super easy to go down a rabbit hole of changing other parts. Thankfully I knew better. Not long ago I installed a NTK crank sensor on a dodge stratus , the car would barely stay running. I put the oem crank sensor back in and it ran great... you really cant trust aftermarket crap.
NTK is an OEM supplier of parts for some major car brands
@@30kendel I know that, that's why I thought I could trust it. I got burned that time lol
"Standard" is one brand I religiously avoid for aftermarket electrical. In my experience their failure rate out of the box is over 50%.
You probably have to use a scan tool for the NTK sensor or any new sensor to calibrate/synchronize them. I believe Ford has an option for that on my Autel maxisys but not sure on Dodge.
Thanks Brian another great video!
Fuel sending unit faulty on original 5.4 3v 07 Navigator swapped out with "compatible" aftermarket fuel pump and aftermarket fuel filter very reasonable price on 1Aauto, eventually got P2272, thought O2 sensor nope, thought MAF nope, vacuum leaks nope, fuel pump PSI on rail using gauge 58, long term fuel trims very high at load 15+ percent both banks, fuel pressure didn't drop on wide open throttle, baro was off thought ground issues, chasing my tail, I didn't want to drop tank again, I asked for help via scannerdanner forum, feedback was PSI should be 65-71 NOT 58! I like the job so I'm doing it twice (insert sarcasm). I ordered correct OEM Motorcraft fuel pump and filter via Rockauto, it's 70 PSI all day, fuel trims close to zero. Fought with A1auto about their "compatible" fuel pump, gave me the run around, no refund on electronic parts, but after tons of back and forth they did the right thing and refunded me. I like learning the hard way ugh.
One of the things that can be done [not saying it is] to combat chinesium fraudelence these days is to embed errors in specs or drawings so that when they go out the front door... the fakes are wrong, or contain a meaningless feature different from the OEM spec actually used. Real dimensions can be called in to legit vendors. Case in point, I replaced a door handle recently, and it re-uses the original key cylinder which simply inserts, then twists in [maybe 15 degrees] and the attacthment bolt secures both in place at the same time. But... keyway was not molded properly - last 4 or 5 degrees of rotation needed was not possible. Fortunately, plastic cuts easily, and I increased the depth of the keyway maybe 2mm so full rotation could occur [I used a hacksaw blade]. But imagine this 20 minute job being sidetracked for the required customization/fitment needed at a repair shop: a half hour labor is added, which behaves much the same as paying at least double market value for the part. Are OEM parts more... or less exensive, knowing that? Choose wisely.
I had a similar experience working on an E36 M3. Check engine light was on and indicated possible unmetered air coming in. Replaced the MAF with a Delphi MAF for $120 as the OEM one was $400+. Was okay for 100 miles or so and check engine light came on for a range of other codes including O2 sensor, etc. O2 sensors and other parts were replaced and no change. Finally found a used BMW MAF and swapped it in, and all was good. The Delphi MAF was likely giving wrong readings and throwing everything else downstream off.
Aftermarket parts are good for the garbage disposal.
Another great video. During my time as a Ford Parts Manager I discovered that a high percentage of aftermarket electronic parts were incompatible with the vehicle or dead out of the box. If the part was Dorman brand it was even worse. Motorcraft parts have a 2 year unlimited mile warranty, why not use them? They were designed for the vehicle. Also there are way too many do it yourselfers working on vehicle systems that they know absolutely nothing about. This video is a perfect example of that. Brian, as always, keep up the good work.
Ford has a habit of discontinuing Motorcraft parts for older vehicles even when the original manufacturer of the original part is still making them.
I can really tell how much this bothered you by your voice. I really respect a person who is passionate about their work and helping others..god bless.
Thank you , great content on this video . Always learn something from this channel , one of my favorite .
One point here. Its NOT that aftermarket parts are always junk. They arent. IF you can identify the OE supplier, you can get the same part without the "Motorcraft markup". I actually go out of my way to avoid using Ford OEM parts where possible. I resent Fords rudiculous prices in OE parts, many of which should not have failed to start. (Like the rear hub bearing on my 38k mile Mustang GT-conveniently just out of warranty).
The REAL issue is QC practices. Before everything got chased offshore by genius politicians and their tax and regulation BS, we didnt have these problems. US aftermarket suppliers were pretty damn solid. Of course, if youre under 50 you dont remember that. BUT its still possible to get non Ford branded parts at Non Ford extortion prices. You just have to do your diligence. If yiure running a busy shop, that may not be a possibility as it requires time to research and vet the parts and suppliers. Someone suggested Rock Auto as a good way to short cut this. I agree. Ive had good success with Rock Auto sourced, non OEM parts. Its really a matter of time. If youre a working pro, you havent got any. If youre retired or a hobbyist it can DEFINITELY be worthwhile and save some cash.
When it comes to new parts, new does not mean good!
This Ford Tech is makin me loco!
Not just electric/electronic parts, I’ve had issues with engine mounts in toyota vehicles
You are one of the best! Thanks for all you do.
new only means it's shinny. Great example!
YOU ARE THE BEST MECHANIC I KNOW!!
YOU JUST EXPLAINED EVERY POSSIBLE WAY TO DIAGNOSE O2 SENSOR CODE WITH A SCAN TOOL. EVEN A BAD CAT. GENIUS YOU ARE.
This is a generalization but when you can find OEM or parts that are same or better, you usually don't have an issue. But you get what you pay for with parts that are cheap in price...for a reason. And with China pumping out IP knockoffs, you know, the AliXpress or cheap parts online reseller...you really need to do your homework on part numbers and sources, let alone forum searches for any correlations to failures.
HEY BRIAN. Help me please!. I have a 2007 Lincoln MKZ, 190K on it. The A/C stopped working months ago. I payed a local shop to replace the AC compressor, transducer ac switch. I replaced the evap temp sensor from watching your video, I’m almost $1800 into this problem and the shop told me they can’t fix it, my A/C now works intermittently, the shop says they did their part and maybe I should go somewhere else. I was thinking about buying a topdon scan tool so I can get live data from the A/C module. Also learned that from you. Please help any advise is greatly appreciated thank you!.
1000% agree with you. Great video...
ALWAYS call around for prices, including your local dealers. They sometimes offer OEM parts for LESS than O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, etc. Worth spending the time doing your research before you buy.
Speaking of electronics, anyone familiar with the average lifespan of F-series wheel speed sensors?
My 18 F150 w/60,000 is showing “service AdvanceTrac/no hill.”
I foolishly ran a bad battery for a month trying to avoid buying a new battery in zero degree conditions. I probably jump started the 3.5 half a dozen times. And that’s when “service AT” came up and I lost my cruise control.
I’m ASSuming a wheel speed censor coincidentally went out at that time of minimal driving, or I may have messed something up electronically.
I was working on my Dad's Nissan Frontier so he could make it to his dialysis appointments, it was throwing a P0340 code for the Passenger intake camshaft sensor. We ordered a new cheapo sensor from Rockauto, and then it started throwing a P0011 code. So then I thought maybe it jumped time because it wouldn't start at all and was making a terrible clacking noise.
So after some deliberation, we decided to re-order this sensor, but this time we ordered the NTK (japanese brand, same company as NGK) and guess what? Its fixed. The clacking noise was a loose heat shield on the exhaust.
NEVER cheap out on sensors. Buy OEM, or buy American or Japanese. Skip the chinese crap.
Good evening, chat. In a none related question.
I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 with the 6 bolt crankshaft.
It's a manual transmission.
Could I use an 8 bolts crank with my 4.6 manuel transmission? I know I would need to change the flywheel. But would the clutch work with the 8 bolt? Thanks
I think the biggest thing people are not aware of, are counterfeit after market and OEM parts.
These are now even creeping into the local parts store, and not just on eBay and Amazon.
So watch yourself, you can't live in bliss (ignorance) if you are buying a part at a store, make sure it looks quality and even then make sure of the return policies.
If your car is newer, or still under warranty, always go with OEM from the dealer.
buy from reputable sources, this doesn't mean pep-boys. It means from a trusted source and confirm it is what it is.
Even after all of this, you might get junk, because even the legit makers now are struggling.
People wanna chirp about "supply lines" but they are totally in bliss (ignorant) over how the parts makers (OEM AND AFTERMARKET) have lost their skilled technical force of labor since covid, and have been replaced by people who either don't know, don't care, or can't do.
The scary thing is Motorcraft is discontinuing a lot of parts for non-current platforms. I'm working on a 2003 Mustang GT 4.6 with a bad IAC valve, which frequently fail on these modular engines. The experts who really know these engines (like FordTechMakuloco) will tell you that cleaning these IAC's is a very temporary fix at best. The only way to consistently solve the problem is to replace the IAC with the Motorcraft part. Good luck finding one today. After searching all my different parts sources, I tried 3 aftermarket brands, none of which worked satisfactorily, even after resetting the KAM and taking the time to relearn the adaptations each time. Out of desperation, I found a Motorcraft IAC on ebay that was new but not in the original packaging. This one fixed the problem so I got lucky. Between Mustangs, Crown Vics, etc, there are millions of these engines out there so it seems like this will be a major problem going forward.
That's all fine and good if your car isn't nearly 20 years old. You must rely on aftermarket, dealership can't get them because they no longer make them through Ford. I have an 07 Expedition and have run into this problem. 2012, yeah it's old enough to have the same problem if you're doing it at home.
Regardless if it's a new Ford part or not, just because it's new doesn't mean it good (working part). The days of going to the Ford parts desk or the auto parts store and knowing your getting a tested working new part is beyond over with. If you look at may of the electrical parts on housing they are stamped with "Scrap if Dropped" Do you really think the people that handled these parts carefully picked up and moved that box around right up to the point it was handed to you?
So many bad parts now. No OEM left for my 88 Camaro- Delco is always other parts (got two ball joints- both were different brands).
Last year alone, I had bad NEW AC Delco parts: PS pump, throttle position sensor, and alternator.
Needed a RR brake caliper for a 2017 Nissan Titan. Needed it quick so tried AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance, all they had was a 2piston caliper while the original was a single piston caliper. So called the closest Nissan dealer - they could have one there in two days, but before I ordered it I asked how many pistons it had, and they said two. Finally went to RockAuto and they had a Raybestos caliper that matched the original Nissan one. So much for always going OEM!
Code c1440eo 2014 f150, have to charge HCH, brake light switch ok ! Inner switch reading over 40 psi with no brake applied ! Wish there was a replacement for that pressure switch ! Going to install a used hydraulic unit.
I always try to buy OEM parts, recently I had that coolant y pipe on a 2018 5.0 leaking, we bought the OEM part and it seemed slightly small and would not seal, but another one off Amazon, same thing, then I bought a Dorman cast aluminum part, and it was perfect. I dont get it. Somehow Dorman saved the day.