Thank you for this video. This was the first one I've seen on installing shore power to a van. It was a good introduction for me to get some knowledge. I am eager to learn a lot more specifically about the wiring aspect. I wish the videos were more detailed but some RUclipsrs worry about being boring but many of us are looking specifically for the details. The point is you did a great job and I've already watch the video you did not the Dometic fridge and toilet. Thanks again; its appreciated!
Manny S thank you for watching. There are a lot of comments on this video telling me I did it wrong and it is dangerous. I will say after this video I changed the first outlet to a GFCI outlet and have not had any problems with the way it is set up.
Looks good...except, typically you never want to use solid copper wire in a vehicle. The vibration can cause it to eventually crack or break. Stranded copper is the way to go. Just something to be aware of. You may never have a problem.
I bought one last year and haven't got up the nerve to install it yet. Drilling a hole thru my van is scary. But I will get on it this spring.Thanks for turning me on to it.
I would find a local RV service repair or conversion place. I'm not sure where you are located. But, I find people online all the time. I live in the city so going to the less populated areas is cheaper. Worse case you can always use camping world. lol
Yes it’s been covered plenty of times. It’s a damn glorified extension cord. No need for a breaker box. There’s a breaker in my house and every damn camp ground I go to. Jesus!
I have a 30 amp right now. Mostly the same set up. Always learning something new. A Surge protector will probably be my next investment. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge for the newbies!
I'm glad to see you added a GFI to the circuit. I would not worry so much about the moisture tripping it as much as losing the ground run somewhere between the shore connection to the first receptacle. The GFI measures difference in potential between the neutral (with an internal circuit electronics) and the power side and as such does not need a ground wire hooked to function although it should have the ground wire anyway. Having the GFI at the very first receptacle will protect all downstream devices (receptacles).
John Nix I'm not sure why everyone is so worried about the electrical set up. It's basically a 12 foot extension cord with an outlet at the end and one about 12 inches from the inlet. The first outlet is literally 12 inches or less between the inlet plug on the exterior of the van. I changed the outlet to GFCI just to appease everyone. I am a real estate broker and have seen a number of home inspections. You guys would probably be surprised at some of the things that might be in your own homes that are far worse than my 12 foot extension cord on wheels.
Thanks again bro finding your video's super to watch that could hook straight up to the convertor and charge the batteries and in turn supply the camper with electricity. sweet
TheChessbully thanks. I don't see a need for a breaker box as it is basically just an extension cord. However, I am going to change the first outlet to a gfci outlet in case of any water or moisture.
@@RubberTrampRenegade So you don't overload the circuit and burn your van down when the load exceeds the capacity of that "extension cord" which is probably the weakest link. A breaker spec'ed properly will prevent that.
DingDingDing there’s a breaker box in my garage or anywhere I hook up to. You don’t add a breaker between your kitchen outlet and your toaster do you? Maybe you do? I’m not sure about most experts on RUclips anymore. Y’all know it all.
@@RubberTrampRenegade , and long as that breaker will pop before you exceed the capability of whatever is plugged into that circuit. If you plug something that draws 20 amps into a 15 amp circuit the breaker will pop. If you plug something in that draws 15 amps in a 20 amp circuit the breaker won't pop, but if the item that draws 15 amps ends up drawing 19 amps because of something wrong, the breaker won't pop, but the device could overheat and burst into flames. Also a campgrounds you are assuming the breaker is correct and in good working order. If you look at your home breaker box there is also a "main breaker" protecting your home from a surge on the external line. That is one thing you don't have in your van.
I saw the license plate design, a small portion of it and it looks like if my guess is right you appear to be somewhere in the Commonwealth of Kentucky.
This is a super rookie question... LOL. How do you hook up shore power to your solar power set up? I haven’t done it yet because I’m not at all sure about this process. I did set up my solar system myself, and it works great, but had an RV friend install the alternator charger, because yeah electricity is not my ideal activity! 🤦🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️. Thanks in advance for any help with this!! 🙏🏽✌🏽💖 Oh and BTW I used your poor man’s fiberglass tutorial on the roof of my canned ham camper as well as the inside of my tiny 2Wx3Lx4T shower/commode build. No leaks, no cracking and looks awesome. The texture on the bottom actually works great to keep me from slipping with my klutzy self. LOL
I have never had a solar system. My 12 volt system and my shore power system were 2 different systems. You would need what is called a converter that most RV's have.
Oh my goodness I love this video! The thought of wearing my shuttle bus would confuse me because my mind would not be able to wrap itself around running wire. You made it look so easy and it made such sense! Thank you so much! Okay now did you wire that in series or series parallel? Oh by the way, Hi!! my name's Julie from Gainesville Fl LOL nice ta meet cha
Can you use the NOCO plug, Surepower, with just a good extension cord inside the van and plug into surge protector with multiple plugs and USB without having to install fuses, etc? And, if so, I'll get me one of those NOCO plugs, so all I would have to do is plug either a generator/another good extension cord from the outside to a campsite plug/or when visiting family and friends for Surepower needs.
I’m interested in knowing how that shore power setup is working for you. I’ve been advised to install a 30amp power system. Your feedback wud be greatly appreciated. The difference with the set up for me is $355..lol
I’ve sold the van since this video and am working on a new build. This set up was basically just an extension cord. I’d plug in to a 110 outlet at a campground and have power. It only powered the 2 outlets installed in my van, it didn’t run all my other 12 volt accessories, they still ran off my 12 volt system. Since this video I changed the first outlet by the power inlet to a GFCI Incase there was any water to get in. It all worked well when I had it.
Lol. You’re like the thousandth person to give the that junk. Have you ever been to a campground? The have a. Breaker box at the site. My system is nothing more than an extension cord. If I park at a campground and plug in to the outlet 5 feet away from me that is in a breaker box with a breaker, why do I need another? I used this van like this for 3 years and I’m still alive. If you want to spend the extra money on useless breaker boxes then have fun buddy.
Well I see you commented again but it’s not showing up. My 110 set up is completely separate from my 12 volt system. When plugged in to the campground it only powers the 2 outlets on the run. So yes, again it’s just an extension cord. Nothing more. I’m still alive, van is still alive, no fires, no problems. You don’t put a breaker box between your toaster and the wall do you?
And I’m happy to hear you are an electrician and work for sunseeker yachts. That’s great. And as far as “every other van on the market”, this isn’t one. It’s a home built camper van that I take out on the weekends. It’s not a commercially produced rig. I’m so happy I shared my personal projects with everyone so they can all tell me what I did “wrong”. Well you know what? I get a lot of advice from people coming looking for advice who talk a lot about building a van, but never act on it. I’ve done it, I’ve enjoyed it, and I’m still breathing.
@@RubberTrampRenegade Just trying to help but some people are too blind for their own good. You ain't got a clue mate and talk as if you think you have..... Good luck pmsl
I've got that same generator the one you had set them on your bench, I used it for one summer the next summer it quit working I think it's the carburetor
Yes, you're right about that -- usually both 30A or 50A. The video shows a regular 15A port being installed through the sheetmetal. The inside hardware is also that rating/design. That's fine as long as the loads being powered don't draw any more than that -- because you're drawing from a source capable of supplying 30A, you won't actually get there without literally asking for it! The tricky part is, that while both 15A and 30A are 3-wire-designs, the outlet on the pedestal is not the same configuration as the inlet on the vehicle. One has slanted prongs for the hot and neutral prongs, the other's is straight, like the usual household variety. So, the power cable will have to be fitted with ends appropriate for their intended connection, or used in conjunction with the right adapter pigtail for the same purpose. If you wanted to get as much as 30A into your RV, the best way to do it safely is with a small breaker panel. They can be found as small as 30A main breaker, and fitted with a couple of smaller branch breakers connected to outlets, you've got all the convenience of home. (They are 3-wire, single pole, single phase items, so there's no advanced skills needed -- BUT, unlike a residential panel, most mobile panels do not connect the neutral busbar with the ground busbar. The "ground " connection is via a correctly wired supply pedestal.)
I have no idea if this is true, but I read somewhere that you should use stranded wire for van or trailer builds. It had something to do with solid, house-type wiring not holding up to the shock, vibration and constant motion of on-road applications. Does anyone have any input on this subject?
Stranded wire is better for builds prone to vibration and movement. However, my van rode relatively smoothly down the road and did not rattle my teeth out like a trailer would bouncing around so it was perfectly fine.
Nice job on your Shore Power Installation. I took a 4 foot long Power Strip, with 12 outlets in it, and installed it up along the top of my side windows on the Driver Side of my Camper Van, and installed a simple Cover on the Outside Rear Driver Side Corner of the Van, and when I want to plug into Shore Power, or hook up to my Generator, I just open the Box Cover on the outside of the Van, and plug in. I am also looking into getting 2 12 Volt Deep Cycle Marine Batteries, each with 100 amp hours of battery power, then install a Battery Isolator, and cable from my Starter Battery to be able to charge the house batteries while traveling. The Batteries will be hooked up in series with each other, and there will be a Master Switch installed to turn the house batteries on and off as needed. I will also be purchasing a 1500 or 2000 watt Power Inverter to allow me to run 120 volt accessories when I am in areas that do not have Shore Power Hookups, and may not allow the use of a Generator due to noise restrictions.
I did go back and change the first outlet to gfci later. This was basically just a glorified extension cord. I used it like this for 3 years with no problem whatsoever from the wiring. Thanks for watching
I'm looking at basically the same plug that you used, got a question why did you go with that one rather than one that didn't have the normal extension cord end? If I decide to do this to my Promaster I'll keep the Extension Cord end and plug a heavy duty surge protector in it I plan to mount at the rear. This way I don't have to wire anything because I am no electrician but can drill a hole lol. My van has nothing fixed in place, I need it to be able to go from Cargo Hauler, to Wheelchair Ramp, to Camper in short order. My camper stuff is held in place with tie-downs rather than bolting to the walls or floor and so far I can empty everything out in a half hour. I would love to fully convert it to be a full time Camper like your Van is setup, with nice paneling and insulation but it needs to remain versatile.
I'd love to have plugs too. But I agree with you. I planned on a surge protector and an extension cord. I can definitely drill a hole and screw in the screws. :-)
Noe Alvarez I used 12/2 wire from one outlet to the other I believe. Make sure your first outlet is gfci. I didn't do it originally but I have swapped it since the video. That way if any moisture gets to it it will trip
C.A. MOON I have a complete 12 volt system with a 100 amp hour battery that is charged by my alternator with an isolator. I have a 1500 watt inverter but my 12 volt system cannot run a household window unit. My shore power set up is mainly to run a window AC when I can plug in at camp grounds.
I have an inverter and I want to charge my battery bank when plugged into shore power. I’ve been told I need a charger since my inverter is not an inverter/charger do you have a video that connects a charger to the inverter so I can charge my batteries when I’m plugged into shore power??
i'm trying to put a outside outlet for my enclose trailer but doesn't want to wire so much. would that work for the trailer if i install the cord in like that and just use the inside for plug in with out making a outlet box for it?
So the only thing I'm confused about is how you ran the "second wire" going to the from of the van? did you basically splice the second outlet and the exterior plug together? I am doing the exact same thing. One exterior 110, to two separate outlets. No breaker box but will be using gfci on the first outlet, and the second outlet plan on running a regular outlet with usb connectors built in.I will be using either an RV park power supply, or my honda eu2000i, does this sound like it will provide enough power? seems like it, if you are going to run an AC unit.
Joe Cuevas the plug on the side of the van is a male 110 plug I bought off amazon and is wired to the first outlet directly. I have changed the first outlet to a gfci outlet since the video. No breaker box or fuse box as it is basically an extension cord or short 110 run like you would run in a home. A Honda 2000 should run a 5-6000 BTU AC just fine.
There is no splicing involved. You wire the plug on the outside of the van to one side of the first outlet and the run a wire from the other side of thefirst outlet to the other. Just as you would when wiring a run of outlets in a house
Joe Cuevas no problem. If you aren't familiar with household wiring do a little research. It isn't difficult, you should be fine on this. Just make sure you use the proper size wire and wire the outlets correctly. Don't let the negativity in the comments section scare you. I haven't died yet.
Thats a good looking van. What year is it? I have a 1987 E-150 that I'm using for my camper van build and it is the same body as yours. Where did you find the plug that you mounted on the outside?
You wire it like any outlet in any home. It’s 3 wires. Relatively simple. Basic wiring. Black wire to the gold terminal, white wire to the silver terminal, and uncoated wire to ground. Pretty hard to mess up.
I understand how your power is coming into your van from this vid. But how do you have power going into your outlets? I'm a dummie and need to see that part or have it explained lol
The power comes in and goes directly to the first outlet then jumps over to the next outlet just like in a house. It’s basically just an extension cord in theory.
you forgot to paint the holes you drilled, those part will rust. also it would have been smarter to install that at the bottom of the van, plus there are idiots who will think its a gas cap
Painting it would have helped. I siliconed around it so the likelihood of water getting to it was slim, but you’re right. As far as someone thinking it was a gas cap, I’m not sure that makes much difference to me. People can think what they want.
My refigerator is 12 volt and runs off my 12 volt system while I am driving or while I am parked. I dont use 120 for refrigeration. My 120v setup is a completely different system and I cannot run my 12 volt accessories off of 120 when pugged in.
Your battery should be grounded to the frame. You can use a large wire to ground a post to the frame. In this video I used a large fuse holder as positive and negative posts. One goes to the positive on the battery and the other goes to the frame, but could also go to the negative on the battery as long as the battery is grounded to the frame. Your negative on your accessory should go to either the ground post, the negative on the battery, or directly to the frame. However you decide to do it.
chris Subleski chris Subleski had the van like this for over 2 years and no problems. I’ve sold the van to a guy who lives in it on the road with his job. Still going strong. But according to all the trolls on RUclips I did everything wrong. Tired of hearing what I did wrong from all the people sitting on their ass doing nothing.
luftschutz nope. It's basically just an extension cord. If I hook into my garage, my garage has a breaker. Or at a camp ground there is usually a breaker. No need for a fuse. Do you use a fuse when you plug in an extension cord to the wall?
This would actually be a more secure connection. Plugs would plug into an outlet more securely and be safer than a power strip. It's actually highly recommended to not use power strips.
Dude, camp grounds have nasty wiring issues, no breakers means blowing up what ever you plug in, line in first goes to breaker box, then to your lines.....suggest you not use that away from home!
This video was posted 3 years ago. I had the van 2 years after this video was made. I’ve since sold it. I never had any issues anywhere with plugging the van in. This is nothing more than an extension cord. It doesn’t power anything other than the 2 outlets on the series. My other electrics ran exclusively on the 12 volt auxiliary battery. I’m still alive, didn’t burn down, didn’t die. Everyone on RUclips is so afraid of everything. Go live your life and stop worrying so much about what other people do on RUclips.
So by adding a gfci to the firs outlet that removes the need for a 30 amp breaker box? if so that is awesome because I do not have the room for a breaker box in my trailer
Thank you for this video. This was the first one I've seen on installing shore power to a van. It was a good introduction for me to get some knowledge. I am eager to learn a lot more specifically about the wiring aspect. I wish the videos were more detailed but some RUclipsrs worry about being boring but many of us are looking specifically for the details. The point is you did a great job and I've already watch the video you did not the Dometic fridge and toilet. Thanks again; its appreciated!
Manny S thank you for watching. There are a lot of comments on this video telling me I did it wrong and it is dangerous. I will say after this video I changed the first outlet to a GFCI outlet and have not had any problems with the way it is set up.
Looks good...except, typically you never want to use solid copper wire in a vehicle. The vibration can cause it to eventually crack or break. Stranded copper is the way to go. Just something to be aware of. You may never have a problem.
jerryw62 thank you for the tip, I'll make sure to keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the tip!
I looked all over for this exact type of video and you answered every question I had, great job.
Great! One thing I will point out since this video. I changed my first outlet to GFCI
I bought one last year and haven't got up the nerve to install it yet. Drilling a hole thru my van is scary. But I will get on it this spring.Thanks for turning me on to it.
I would find a local RV service repair or conversion place. I'm not sure where you are located. But, I find people online all the time. I live in the city so going to the less populated areas is cheaper. Worse case you can always use camping world. lol
Too bad all those certified master electricians out there aren’t out working instead of criticizing you! Good video.
I’m sure this has been covered by now, but I was surprised to see you didn’t use a 30A shore power with breaker box.
Yes it’s been covered plenty of times. It’s a damn glorified extension cord. No need for a breaker box. There’s a breaker in my house and every damn camp ground I go to. Jesus!
I have a 30 amp right now. Mostly the same set up. Always learning something new. A Surge protector will probably be my next investment.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge for the newbies!
Thanks for this video it really helped me with my Teardrop trailer build. Wasn’t sure how I was going to hook up my offshore power.
I like your technique because you get straight to the topic and work as you explain .thank you
Glad you found it helpful. I should add that I changed the first outlet inside the van to gfci after the making of this video.
I like to use rubber gasket for attaching the socket to the van body, one outside and on inside if possible
Nice build. Doing another van for the new build?
Great video and nice to see everything explained simply.
Thanks
You did a nice job… your a good teacher 🙌
JerryW My thoughts exactly. Use stranded automotive wire in your van builds.
Handy video. We all learn from the comments too.
I'm glad to see you added a GFI to the circuit. I would not worry so much about the moisture tripping it as much as losing the ground run somewhere between the shore connection to the first receptacle. The GFI measures difference in potential between the neutral (with an internal circuit electronics) and the power side and as such does not need a ground wire hooked to function although it should have the ground wire anyway. Having the GFI at the very first receptacle will protect all downstream devices (receptacles).
John Nix I'm not sure why everyone is so worried about the electrical set up. It's basically a 12 foot extension cord with an outlet at the end and one about 12 inches from the inlet. The first outlet is literally 12 inches or less between the inlet plug on the exterior of the van. I changed the outlet to GFCI just to appease everyone. I am a real estate broker and have seen a number of home inspections. You guys would probably be surprised at some of the things that might be in your own homes that are far worse than my 12 foot extension cord on wheels.
JACK OF ALL TRADES MASTER OF SOME 👍
you may have wanted a small breaker before the first outlet, or you could hang a gfic between the van and shore power supply.
That would be double breakers. Not necessarily. The outlet you plug into has the breaker already.
Thanks again bro finding your video's super to watch that could hook straight up to the convertor and charge the batteries and in turn supply the camper with electricity. sweet
looks good, but I would highly recommend a breaker box at the 1st gang box if you haven't already.
TheChessbully thanks. I don't see a need for a breaker box as it is basically just an extension cord. However, I am going to change the first outlet to a gfci outlet in case of any water or moisture.
@@RubberTrampRenegade So you don't overload the circuit and burn your van down when the load exceeds the capacity of that "extension cord" which is probably the weakest link. A breaker spec'ed properly will prevent that.
DingDingDing there’s a breaker box in my garage or anywhere I hook up to. You don’t add a breaker between your kitchen outlet and your toaster do you? Maybe you do? I’m not sure about most experts on RUclips anymore. Y’all know it all.
@@RubberTrampRenegade , and long as that breaker will pop before you exceed the capability of whatever is plugged into that circuit. If you plug something that draws 20 amps into a 15 amp circuit the breaker will pop. If you plug something in that draws 15 amps in a 20 amp circuit the breaker won't pop, but if the item that draws 15 amps ends up drawing 19 amps because of something wrong, the breaker won't pop, but the device could overheat and burst into flames. Also a campgrounds you are assuming the breaker is correct and in good working order. If you look at your home breaker box there is also a "main breaker" protecting your home from a surge on the external line. That is one thing you don't have in your van.
Dave another one of these experts..... I had the van a good 3 years and it never burnt down.
I saw the license plate design, a small portion of it and it looks like if my guess is right you appear to be somewhere in the Commonwealth of Kentucky.
@@zacharymyers3460 and?
This is a super rookie question... LOL. How do you hook up shore power to your solar power set up? I haven’t done it yet because I’m not at all sure about this process. I did set up my solar system myself, and it works great, but had an RV friend install the alternator charger, because yeah electricity is not my ideal activity! 🤦🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️. Thanks in advance for any help with this!! 🙏🏽✌🏽💖
Oh and BTW I used your poor man’s fiberglass tutorial on the roof of my canned ham camper as well as the inside of my tiny 2Wx3Lx4T shower/commode build. No leaks, no cracking and looks awesome. The texture on the bottom actually works great to keep me from slipping with my klutzy self. LOL
I have never had a solar system. My 12 volt system and my shore power system were 2 different systems. You would need what is called a converter that most RV's have.
Oh my goodness I love this video! The thought of wearing my shuttle bus would confuse me because my mind would not be able to wrap itself around running wire. You made it look so easy and it made such sense! Thank you so much! Okay now did you wire that in series or series parallel? Oh by the way, Hi!! my name's Julie from Gainesville Fl LOL nice ta meet cha
Can you use the NOCO plug, Surepower, with just a good extension cord inside the van and plug into surge protector with multiple plugs and USB without having to install fuses, etc? And, if so, I'll get me one of those NOCO plugs, so all I would have to do is plug either a generator/another good extension cord from the outside to a campsite plug/or when visiting family and friends for Surepower needs.
I’m interested in knowing how that shore power setup is working for you. I’ve been advised to install a 30amp power system. Your feedback wud be greatly appreciated. The difference with the set up for me is $355..lol
I’ve sold the van since this video and am working on a new build. This set up was basically just an extension cord. I’d plug in to a 110 outlet at a campground and have power. It only powered the 2 outlets installed in my van, it didn’t run all my other 12 volt accessories, they still ran off my 12 volt system. Since this video I changed the first outlet by the power inlet to a GFCI Incase there was any water to get in. It all worked well when I had it.
Extremely info, thank you
Where are the breaker boxes and trip switches? Is it not fused?
Lol. You’re like the thousandth person to give the that junk. Have you ever been to a campground? The have a. Breaker box at the site. My system is nothing more than an extension cord. If I park at a campground and plug in to the outlet 5 feet away from me that is in a breaker box with a breaker, why do I need another? I used this van like this for 3 years and I’m still alive. If you want to spend the extra money on useless breaker boxes then have fun buddy.
Well I see you commented again but it’s not showing up. My 110 set up is completely separate from my 12 volt system. When plugged in to the campground it only powers the 2 outlets on the run. So yes, again it’s just an extension cord. Nothing more. I’m still alive, van is still alive, no fires, no problems. You don’t put a breaker box between your toaster and the wall do you?
And I’m happy to hear you are an electrician and work for sunseeker yachts. That’s great. And as far as “every other van on the market”, this isn’t one. It’s a home built camper van that I take out on the weekends. It’s not a commercially produced rig. I’m so happy I shared my personal projects with everyone so they can all tell me what I did “wrong”. Well you know what? I get a lot of advice from people coming looking for advice who talk a lot about building a van, but never act on it. I’ve done it, I’ve enjoyed it, and I’m still breathing.
@@RubberTrampRenegade Just trying to help but some people are too blind for their own good. You ain't got a clue mate and talk as if you think you have..... Good luck pmsl
I've got that same generator the one you had set them on your bench, I used it for one summer the next summer it quit working I think it's the carburetor
Thank you. I will see what they have. have a great day.
I used the same Noco plug in my cargo trailer build.
Excellent instructions.
Don't most campgrounds use 30 amp? Trying to figure this out for my van at campgrounds and RV parks with hookups.
Yes, you're right about that -- usually both 30A or 50A. The video shows a regular 15A port being installed through the sheetmetal. The inside hardware is also that rating/design. That's fine as long as the loads being powered don't draw any more than that -- because you're drawing from a source capable of supplying 30A, you won't actually get there without literally asking for it!
The tricky part is, that while both 15A and 30A are 3-wire-designs, the outlet on the pedestal is not the same configuration as the inlet on the vehicle. One has slanted prongs for the hot and neutral prongs, the other's is straight, like the usual household variety. So, the power cable will have to be fitted with ends appropriate for their intended connection, or used in conjunction with the right adapter pigtail for the same purpose.
If you wanted to get as much as 30A into your RV, the best way to do it safely is with a small breaker panel. They can be found as small as 30A main breaker, and fitted with a couple of smaller branch breakers connected to outlets, you've got all the convenience of home. (They are 3-wire, single pole, single phase items, so there's no advanced skills needed -- BUT, unlike a residential panel, most mobile panels do not connect the neutral busbar with the ground busbar. The "ground " connection is via a correctly wired supply pedestal.)
Robert Phillips Thanks for the information, definitely something to consider.
I have no idea if this is true, but I read somewhere that you should use stranded wire for van or trailer builds. It had something to do with solid, house-type wiring not holding up to the shock, vibration and constant motion of on-road applications. Does anyone have any input on this subject?
Stranded wire is better for builds prone to vibration and movement. However, my van rode relatively smoothly down the road and did not rattle my teeth out like a trailer would bouncing around so it was perfectly fine.
need to get mine done
Nice job on your Shore Power Installation. I took a 4 foot long Power Strip, with 12 outlets in it, and installed it up along the top of my side windows on the Driver Side of my Camper Van, and installed a simple Cover on the Outside Rear Driver Side Corner of the Van, and when I want to plug into Shore Power, or hook up to my Generator, I just open the Box Cover on the outside of the Van, and plug in. I am also looking into getting 2 12 Volt Deep Cycle Marine Batteries, each with 100 amp hours of battery power, then install a Battery Isolator, and cable from my Starter Battery to be able to charge the house batteries while traveling. The Batteries will be hooked up in series with each other, and there will be a Master Switch installed to turn the house batteries on and off as needed. I will also be purchasing a 1500 or 2000 watt Power Inverter to allow me to run 120 volt accessories when I am in areas that do not have Shore Power Hookups, and may not allow the use of a Generator due to noise restrictions.
My 4 foot long Power Strip also has a built in Circuit Breaker as well as a 30 amp fuse, which I had wired into it by a professional electrician
Thanks for telling us your life story.
You seem to know what you’re doing, weird question but Could I hire you to help me do this on my van? I would come to you. I live in Nashville.
Use gfi outlet(s) depending on ac and heat use a 20 amp outlet and as others have said never use Romex that’s for houses
I did go back and change the first outlet to gfci later. This was basically just a glorified extension cord. I used it like this for 3 years with no problem whatsoever from the wiring. Thanks for watching
👍😀
I'm looking at basically the same plug that you used, got a question why did you go with that one rather than one that didn't have the normal extension cord end? If I decide to do this to my Promaster I'll keep the Extension Cord end and plug a heavy duty surge protector in it I plan to mount at the rear. This way I don't have to wire anything because I am no electrician but can drill a hole lol.
My van has nothing fixed in place, I need it to be able to go from Cargo Hauler, to Wheelchair Ramp, to Camper in short order. My camper stuff is held in place with tie-downs rather than bolting to the walls or floor and so far I can empty everything out in a half hour. I would love to fully convert it to be a full time Camper like your Van is setup, with nice paneling and insulation but it needs to remain versatile.
I'd love to have plugs too. But I agree with you. I planned on a surge protector and an extension cord. I can definitely drill a hole and screw in the screws. :-)
Great informative video. You explained it well and made it look super simple.
i like the video
what type of wire you use from first outlet to the second one?
Noe Alvarez I used 12/2 wire from one outlet to the other I believe. Make sure your first outlet is gfci. I didn't do it originally but I have swapped it since the video. That way if any moisture gets to it it will trip
Ever put any thoughts into using solar panels ? And store the power in some batteries and use an inverter ?
C.A. MOON I have a complete 12 volt system with a 100 amp hour battery that is charged by my alternator with an isolator. I have a 1500 watt inverter but my 12 volt system cannot run a household window unit. My shore power set up is mainly to run a window AC when I can plug in at camp grounds.
Where did you find the outlet you used. My local camper store didn't have those.
Amazon
good looking van!
Great video. What is the black cord/plug called? Trying to find one and not having any luck.
"120 volt inlet for rv/boat" is what you should google. Whatever amperage your particular setup requires of course.
I have an inverter and I want to charge my battery bank when plugged into shore power. I’ve been told I need a charger since my inverter is not an inverter/charger do you have a video that connects a charger to the inverter so I can charge my batteries when I’m plugged into shore power??
By the way, I really enjoyed watching ur video. Really nice job
How did you connect the black and yellow wire behind the hole?
Stripped them back and used wire nuts.
i'm trying to put a outside outlet for my enclose trailer but doesn't want to wire so much. would that work for the trailer if i install the cord in like that and just use the inside for plug in with out making a outlet box for it?
cher her yes, that would work just fine if you just need one plug.
So the only thing I'm confused about is how you ran the "second wire" going to the from of the van? did you basically splice the second outlet and the exterior plug together? I am doing the exact same thing. One exterior 110, to two separate outlets. No breaker box but will be using gfci on the first outlet, and the second outlet plan on running a regular outlet with usb connectors built in.I will be using either an RV park power supply, or my honda eu2000i, does this sound like it will provide enough power? seems like it, if you are going to run an AC unit.
Joe Cuevas the plug on the side of the van is a male 110 plug I bought off amazon and is wired to the first outlet directly. I have changed the first outlet to a gfci outlet since the video. No breaker box or fuse box as it is basically an extension cord or short 110 run like you would run in a home. A Honda 2000 should run a 5-6000 BTU AC just fine.
There is no splicing involved. You wire the plug on the outside of the van to one side of the first outlet and the run a wire from the other side of thefirst outlet to the other. Just as you would when wiring a run of outlets in a house
RubberTrampRenegade thank you! Now I can picture it. Sorry , I am unfamiliar with household electrical
Joe Cuevas no problem. If you aren't familiar with household wiring do a little research. It isn't difficult, you should be fine on this. Just make sure you use the proper size wire and wire the outlets correctly. Don't let the negativity in the comments section scare you. I haven't died yet.
Great vid. Keep them coming!
Thats a good looking van. What year is it? I have a 1987 E-150 that I'm using for my camper van build and it is the same body as yours. Where did you find the plug that you mounted on the outside?
You can probably find anything you need on ebay. That's where I go to find parts for my Rv and car. 🙋
can i ask where you bought the outside plug, the black one you mounted on outside of van? Nice job!
I bought it on Amazon, but it looks like that particular plug is no longer available on there.
Well how did you wire it you didn't show that part which is the most important part ?
You wire it like any outlet in any home. It’s 3 wires. Relatively simple. Basic wiring. Black wire to the gold terminal, white wire to the silver terminal, and uncoated wire to ground. Pretty hard to mess up.
@@RubberTrampRenegade how do you connect the second outlet
You connect the second outlet with wires from one outlet to the next....
@@RubberTrampRenegade is is safe to connect the wires at the same point as the first plug and what gauge wiring is best.
I understand how your power is coming into your van from this vid. But how do you have power going into your outlets? I'm a dummie and need to see that part or have it explained lol
The power comes in and goes directly to the first outlet then jumps over to the next outlet just like in a house. It’s basically just an extension cord in theory.
you forgot to paint the holes you drilled, those part will rust. also it would have been smarter to install that at the bottom of the van, plus there are idiots who will think its a gas cap
Painting it would have helped. I siliconed around it so the likelihood of water getting to it was slim, but you’re right. As far as someone thinking it was a gas cap, I’m not sure that makes much difference to me. People can think what they want.
I am curious, do you use refrigerate ( 120 v) while you drive. I mean ref running while u drive?
My refigerator is 12 volt and runs off my 12 volt system while I am driving or while I am parked. I dont use 120 for refrigeration. My 120v setup is a completely different system and I cannot run my 12 volt accessories off of 120 when pugged in.
nice! Found your video, as I am starting to do a similar project. Where did you get the AC port plug? Ive been looking for one of those
Matt Brennan I got it off amazon. You can probably fund one at camper supply places as well.
Matt Brennan I got it off amazon. You can probably fund one at camper supply places as well.
Nice job.👍🏽
hello rubbertramprenegade like your videos. also think your intro music is cool. who's the artist?
BDR I will have to look it up and find out but it's free on RUclips audio library
What is the part number on the NOCO plug?
Thanks
grantar2 www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ANV81S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478955473&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=noco+genius+gcp1+black+13+amp+125v+ac+port+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y%2BimT05UL&ref=plSrch
grantar2 NOCO genius GCP1
How do you ground?
Your battery should be grounded to the frame. You can use a large wire to ground a post to the frame. In this video I used a large fuse holder as positive and negative posts. One goes to the positive on the battery and the other goes to the frame, but could also go to the negative on the battery as long as the battery is grounded to the frame. Your negative on your accessory should go to either the ground post, the negative on the battery, or directly to the frame. However you decide to do it.
How do you ground the AC Electrical system
where did you get that inlet plug?
George A. I got it on Amazon but it doesn't look like they have it anymore. They have similar ones
amzn.to/2m3NDpD
Good job
Link for the adapter?
amzn.to/2YxGHUD
That 12/2 Romex wire is rated for 20 amps. Your outlet is rated for 13 amps. You should have used 14/2....15 amp rated wire.
Wow, another troll who knows it all. Imagine that.
@@RubberTrampRenegade it's your money butthead. You're welcome.
chris Subleski chris Subleski had the van like this for over 2 years and no problems. I’ve sold the van to a guy who lives in it on the road with his job. Still going strong. But according to all the trolls on RUclips I did everything wrong. Tired of hearing what I did wrong from all the people sitting on their ass doing nothing.
Good info.
No fuse?
luftschutz nope. It's basically just an extension cord. If I hook into my garage, my garage has a breaker. Or at a camp ground there is usually a breaker. No need for a fuse. Do you use a fuse when you plug in an extension cord to the wall?
is a fuce necessary if it has a gfci box?
Awesome!!!👠🚌👠
These vids are great. Thanks for sharing your rad van build ideas. The background music is really fantastic as well. What band is that?
Robb Benson thanks for watching. Building the van has been fun. I'm not sure the band but I'll find out. I get all my music from RUclips audio library
Do you have a problem with it staying plugged in at the van? Do you wish u would have used the shore power that plugs in and you twist to lock ?
RobesEleven the plug stays together tightly and I have not had any trouble with it coming undone.
Would have been a lot easier to just plug an outlet strip (with breaker) into the female end of the shore power.
This would actually be a more secure connection. Plugs would plug into an outlet more securely and be safer than a power strip. It's actually highly recommended to not use power strips.
Great video. Thanks!
Dude, camp grounds have nasty wiring issues, no breakers means blowing up what ever you plug in, line in first goes to breaker box, then to your lines.....suggest you not use that away from home!
This video was posted 3 years ago. I had the van 2 years after this video was made. I’ve since sold it. I never had any issues anywhere with plugging the van in. This is nothing more than an extension cord. It doesn’t power anything other than the 2 outlets on the series. My other electrics ran exclusively on the 12 volt auxiliary battery. I’m still alive, didn’t burn down, didn’t die. Everyone on RUclips is so afraid of everything. Go live your life and stop worrying so much about what other people do on RUclips.
You better make the first receptacle a GFCI or your ass will get killed. Trust me.
Claude Rains thanks, my ass will look into it.
So by adding a gfci to the firs outlet that removes the need for a 30 amp breaker box? if so that is awesome because I do not have the room for a breaker box in my trailer
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