As an Aussie i've gotta admit I find it weird to be in a classroom setting getting taught surfing by a well spoken nobleman like it's a Mathematics lesson. As kids we take whatever floatation device is kicking around whatever house we're at, paddle out and eventually figure out how to stand up. After that we become obsessed with getting barrelled... between eating dimmy's and trying to score weed.
That was my experience as well and it was a great time to be surfing. Less crowds. Watching everyone else surf to learn off them and just enjoying it for what it is. Fun, thrills and friends.
Thank you for the video, interesting stuff and really helpful. Due to a lengthy hiatus since early 90's I'm totally out of the loop and still riding my 80's thruster. This explains why I turned up at a break last year and looked at everybody's boards and thought ' What the hell has happened? ' All grovellers.
That surfer, who won the contest on the fish in Huntington Beach, was David Nuuhiwa , ( which resulted in that board being stolen, snapped , left a knife stabbed in it and hung off the end of the pier in Huntington Beach by the locals from the community in San Diego, were the board was originally created , as a form of protest for the superstar surfer, getting credit for the new innovation , with no mention of the creator Steve Lis , which was indicated in an ad in surfer magazine ) and the fish also started getting popular for experimentation again , I think in 93 or 94 when Tom Curran started using them in contests , and was featured in rip curl’s searching for Tom Curran , which eventually led to Lost making the round nose fish and the movie 5’5 x 19’ 1/4 , ( featuring Corey Lopez, absolutely killing it ) which then blew up the fish more than ever
There are so many terms that are used in every aspect of surfing that the laymen would be hardpressed to guess correctly. From shaping & construction, wave description, board types, maneuvers, ride quality...and on it goes. I found it funny when even Dane and Jordy stumbled when defining the terms they used when surfing in the SITD Allstars.
Absolutely David, there are lots of 'mystical' terms that often prevent us entering through the front gate. Lucky theres enough of us so we can break down the side door to the industry! Haha
Great video as always. I am interested in how the outline shape of a board affects your ability to duck dive it. Would it be true to say that for a board of the same volume, the more pointy the nose the easier it will to duck dive? Also is there a volume/weight ratio where effectively duck diving a board becomes unrealistic and you are likely to be more efficient turtle rolling. Thanks, Dan
It occurs to me that the wave set pattern is influenced by your discussion as well as the slope and shape of the bottom. I just emailed a question asking why my local break is experiencing many doubles after a dredging/beach re-nourishment project. The larger longer period waves are going to be (I think) slowed differently than the smaller wave pattern, and thus the bottom will significantly impact how well the waves combine.
Hi Harry great explanation, can i please ask a question relating to your previous video which i haven't had a response to yet. If the wave has a wave speed heading towards the beach then why are we getting drawn up the face of the wave in the opposite direction the wave is traveling, when we are paddling in to the wave while trying to catch it ? Thank you, Kayne.
Because, the water in unbroken waves is not actually moving towards the beach, the water level is rising and falling as the wave passes through the water. So, the water in front of the wave is rising as you’re trying to paddle down it. I hope that helps
Is it correct that a Fish is ridden more in the front of the board as the foam is heavy in the front of the board and a Groveler is ridden more like a short board where it is ridden in the middle or back?
I ride both over the back half of the board. The front of the board is used most while paddling, take off and accelerating. The back is used once you're up and riding and throughout all turns. For +80% of the time standing up I'm turning, and therefore using the back half of the board only.
You are talking about video’s from the past. It would add a lot to your video if you add the footage of those people surfing the boards. Makes your video more attractive.
As an Aussie i've gotta admit I find it weird to be in a classroom setting getting taught surfing by a well spoken nobleman like it's a Mathematics lesson. As kids we take whatever floatation device is kicking around whatever house we're at, paddle out and eventually figure out how to stand up. After that we become obsessed with getting barrelled... between eating dimmy's and trying to score weed.
Haha thanks for the comment Avon, it sounds like you had a great childhood!
@@SurfSimply LOL yeah positives and negatives i guess. Keep up the good work!!
@@SurfSimply 🤪🤙🏽 Assumptions, he didn't write he gave up on the herb and the surfing, though.
I know, they get to surfing on the next video hopefully- that’s why They call em videos- surf boy!
That was my experience as well and it was a great time to be surfing. Less crowds. Watching everyone else surf to learn off them and just enjoying it for what it is. Fun, thrills and friends.
Thank you for the video, interesting stuff and really helpful. Due to a lengthy hiatus since early 90's I'm totally out of the loop and still riding my 80's thruster. This explains why I turned up at a break last year and looked at everybody's boards and thought ' What the hell has happened? ' All grovellers.
Its hard to ignore their versatility, though one could argue the fish covers all those bases too!
I'd love to hear your thoughts on a 5th center "nub" fin on a quad. Specifically for a groveller.
fish if you want fast, loose and dirty, groveller for shortboard style maneuvers.
All I needed to hear thanks man
Harry thanks for clearing up my doubt. 🤙
I love these videos! Knowing how things work is so helpful -- really happy i found this channel 🤙
Nice one! I find the classroom setting quite therapeutic maybe I should have taken surfing at uni 😁
Good job 🤙 Give us your thoughts on traction pads. What do think about front traction pads and using tail ones on fish or longboards?
If you have a track pad on a log you’re gonna get dropped in on
That surfer, who won the contest on the fish in Huntington Beach, was David Nuuhiwa , ( which resulted in that board being stolen, snapped , left a knife stabbed in it and hung off the end of the pier in Huntington Beach by the locals from the community in San Diego, were the board was originally created , as a form of protest for the superstar surfer, getting credit for the new innovation , with no mention of the creator Steve Lis , which was indicated in an ad in surfer magazine ) and the fish also started getting popular for experimentation again , I think in 93 or 94 when Tom Curran started using them in contests , and was featured in rip curl’s searching for Tom Curran , which eventually led to Lost making the
round nose fish and the movie
5’5 x 19’ 1/4 , ( featuring Corey Lopez, absolutely killing it ) which then blew up the fish more than ever
There are so many terms that are used in every aspect of surfing that the laymen would be hardpressed to guess correctly. From shaping & construction, wave description, board types, maneuvers, ride quality...and on it goes. I found it funny when even Dane and Jordy stumbled when defining the terms they used when surfing in the SITD Allstars.
Absolutely David, there are lots of 'mystical' terms that often prevent us entering through the front gate. Lucky theres enough of us so we can break down the side door to the industry! Haha
love the videos. thanks. any way to redirect to the "magic seaweed" link. the redirect to surfline not working.
I think is very easy.. Fish is for retro style lovers, groveler is to keep as possible the shortboard performance on small waves.
never knew Tony Hawk was English..
Great video as always. I am interested in how the outline shape of a board affects your ability to duck dive it.
Would it be true to say that for a board of the same volume, the more pointy the nose the easier it will to duck dive?
Also is there a volume/weight ratio where effectively duck diving a board becomes unrealistic and you are likely to be more efficient turtle rolling.
Thanks, Dan
It occurs to me that the wave set pattern is influenced by your discussion as well as the slope and shape of the bottom. I just emailed a question asking why my local break is experiencing many doubles after a dredging/beach re-nourishment project. The larger longer period waves are going to be (I think) slowed differently than the smaller wave pattern, and thus the bottom will significantly impact how well the waves combine.
Hi Harry great explanation, can i please ask a question relating to your previous video which i haven't had a response to yet. If the wave has a wave speed heading towards the beach then why are we getting drawn up the face of the wave in the opposite direction the wave is traveling, when we are paddling in to the wave while trying to catch it ?
Thank you, Kayne.
Because, the water in unbroken waves is not actually moving towards the beach, the water level is rising and falling as the wave passes through the water. So, the water in front of the wave is rising as you’re trying to paddle down it. I hope that helps
@@paulbrannan569 very interesting. Thanks for that 👍🏼
Interesting!
San Diego in the house lol watch the movie FISH it’s goes deeep on the origins 😂 cool vid
Hello Harry. Related to sets. How do i know when they start and when they end? Is it a longer time between waves? Thank you!!
Is it correct that a Fish is ridden more in the front of the board as the foam is heavy in the front of the board and a Groveler is ridden more like a short board where it is ridden in the middle or back?
Yuh
I ride both on the tail
I ride both over the back half of the board. The front of the board is used most while paddling, take off and accelerating. The back is used once you're up and riding and throughout all turns. For +80% of the time standing up I'm turning, and therefore using the back half of the board only.
💯
You are talking about video’s from the past. It would add a lot to your video if you add the footage of those people surfing the boards. Makes your video more attractive.
What? U didn't answer the question? Hahaha
Really!!!!???
I just think fish look cool