What an absolute beautiful video guys. DIY Detail about to put 99% of detailing product companies out of business. The way these guys run their business, is how ever should. No BS, no lying, they don’t rip off their customers, full openness of what’s in their chemicals/products, and they even HELP customers save product/money. From the bottom of my heart, god bless you guys and your families.
This is the best video I have seen in years and reminds me when Jason at Chicago Auto Pros went on the graphene hunt. When I first got back into detailing nobody was telling the real truth on ceramic coatings. They had to be infrared cured and there had to be multiple layers. I watched a lot of high end coatings fail and some actually worked as advertised. Be thankful Yvan is telling the truth because he has helped develop some many coatings on the market. The pencil hardness was fascinating and I did learn a lot! Thank you! Thank you guys for this video!!!
Thanks again for another great video. I wash my cars very often, but because l had never watched any of these detailing videos, l had never heard of drying aid. I used to do the mistake of drying my cars before applying quick ceramic coating, but now l know better 😮
I think people would like to know if the coating loses its performance over the years. Do you have to remove the old coating before adding a new coating or can you put over top? Since putting a ceramic coating on my vehicle. I have been impressed with the ease of maintaining the vehicles exterior. I won't switch back to waxes.
I actually installed the 8 year coating and had phenomenal results! It’s been about 2 months now and I just noticed today a small hand sized section under the driver side lower body line where there is a high spot. I haven’t noticed it until today, but I was curious since it’s in such an obscure spot should I just let it go or do I try to light hand polish it off? I’m a perfectionist but I don’t want to compromise the coating in that area for the sake of uniformity! Great content as always 🎉
Great session guys. Damn...that Explains why, after leveling your Metal coating on all the chrome of a Harley, the next day when my sleeve brushed against it, a milky cloud streak appeared. I had to rub down the entire bike a 2nd time, and even a 3rd when they came back again a couple days later. Warning to all....the DIY foam applicator is great but it doesn't soak up a ton of coating, leaving more coating to apply. So when you're about to add those few more drops, don't. There's prob. enough still in the applicator.
This is a good video but deserves a part 2 because people watching this who have and have not much experience will take this video and some of the topics discussed and apply to their vehicles, such as doing coatings out door yes u can but doing it out door means dust wont be flying around and also not where theres a lot of foot traffic or vehicles passing by, second u have to know ur coatings that it would not flash/dry up on u too fast that you wouldn't be able to do a wipe down the high spots specially. As far as hardness of paint itself you have to know what type of paint was used because paint manufacturers have incorporated ceramic for quite some time now to improve their hardness hence we have what we all started calling soft and hard paint. You have adjust the chemicals u use and the process based on what paint ur working on and not by what u saw on video or what they tell u. This video tackles a lot of good points and as ive said needs a follow up video for people who will be taking the info literally and will for sure will not get the right result and will be referring to this video as their reference. Great stuff guys and more power!
Wonderful video as always, thank you for all these details! One followup question, as you are applying the coating you touched upon not applying too much to the applicator pad. What size panel section would you recommend doing as you go along and how much product do you recommend topping off the applicator before the next section i.e. a drop, two, three, or multiple?
I hope this is not an annoying question… I just shipped my Toyota Sequoia to Hawaii, but the covered garage I was planning on disappeared; my alternative is open air car park…sitting for 9 months driving for 3 months . I love this vehicle, but it is dinged and scratched. Having 48 hours it was rough washed then chemical guys carbon force was applied (which does not come with any instructions by the way) and kinda polished with a microfiber cloth. My goal is to avoid rust, but if you ha e any thoughts on future care I would love to hear them… mahalo
I used the 3 year coating on of of my two new cars. First time doing the whole gambit, decon soap, clay and iron remover, polishing and finally panel prep. All DIY stuff except for the soap, easy to use and great results. Kinda my practice shot as l go on to the second car. You mentioned to little ceramic coating as a issue as well as using to much. How can you tell you are using to little? I kinda had a hard time (my own issue) seeing the coating on grey paint. The final looks good just can't help thinking i might have used to little as i wanted to make sure i had enough left over for the second car. Like Nick probably just over thinking it JK. But how can you tell and could I add a second coat... still over thinking it😅
@@diydetailofficial thanks as I run the back of my hand over surfaces on the car all is smooth and silky. Great stuff! Thanks for all the videos on each of the coatings and their properties and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for a very informative video! I'm wondering what the shelf life is of your ceramic coatings after the bottle has been opened in case I need to repair a rock-chip or scratch down the line. For example, will I need to buy another bottle of the 8-year coating to fix a few small sections if I find defects in a year or two, or will the remainder of the bottle still be good for a few years so long as it's stored properly after application?
One question - how does the DIY detail ceramic coatings compare to the other common coatings that we’ve all seen and tried, gtechniq, armor shield, etc. Would love to hear more about what is truly different and sets the DIY detail apart from all the countless other coatings. Have been using the same coatings on my personal cars for a while and am interested to see if it’s worth switching.
I applied the 5year coating a couple of days ago for the first time. Very easy to apply and level. Nice gloss and very slick. I've also used other brands . This is as easy or easier to apply as anything else ive used. One tip is, be careful with the amount that drips out of the bottle ,,it's a lot faster than I was used to but the guys are getting that sorted I believe .
It all comes down to concentration and quality. A lot of the companies get their material from the 3-4 chemical companies. Not sure about DIY...hyperclean is a small company trying to do the chemistry stuff on their own.
So we know that most coatings can't be completely removed without sanding, but (generally speaking) if you want to re-coat with a different coating, can you just use something like your Gold Standard polish and not worry about it? For example: say my car is coated my car with CSL/EXO and I wanted to switch to DIY 8 year, or I want to go from DIY 8 year to Diamond Protech DB36? I'm indecisive and I have a hard time committing to one coating!
Yes you don’t need to worry about removing it completely, you just want to abrade the surface of your previous coating for maximum adhesion of DIY Detail ceramic coating. So a one step polish with Gold Standard would be perfect for that
This is a long shot! But with Ivan’s experience there is hope! I have a customer who had a dealership apply diamond clear incorrectly. Would any of the DIY products work to remove that layer. Or will it need compound polished and coated with diy ceramic coating.
You can do a polish with Gold Standard Polish for sure. All you need to do is abrade the surface (not worry about removing the coating completely) and that can be accomplished with a one-step polish using Gold Standard Polish 👍
If you apply two coats of the ceramic coating 2 hours apart. Do you need to rewipe with a panel prep spray in between, to remove any minor dust that may have accumulated? Or do you just re-apply the second coat directly over the first coat without wiping?
Wow. great video. thank you both. some people who run video channels should take a look and think they know everything about cermaic coatings. they too could learn a lot like me! i have 2 questions: you say rinsless wash is very good for a ceramic coated car. some others say that, for example, ONR would "clog" the ceramic and thus prevent the ceramic from working and only the (non-existent sealing performance?) of ONR would remain... is that true? 2nd question: you say that for a ceramic it would be sufficient if the paintwork is very clean and no polishing is necessary. I understand that. but the other way around, they say that it doesn't work to apply a ceramic on to another existing ceramic (even if the paint is very clean). I think it should be possible, even if the "new" ceramic cannot bond to the paint. but it would work, just not for as long, but maybe better than a detailer that you put on a ceramic. because that works too...(and is cheaper, yes I know; but I'm only asking on principle). thank you for your answer
Our Rinseless wash is very different than ONR. For ours it’s safe, others you will need to test. Yes you can apply ceramic over ceramic as long as it’s clean. As you mentioned though you will not get all the benefits. It’s best to give a light polish in order to properly prepare the surface.
Sorry for the questions. This is such a great resource. 1) how soon should you put a ceramic gloss on the stack? And can it be another brand? 2) I tried to apply just the 3 year to glass on another car but it seemed to fog up. I panicked and used panel prep to get it back to clear. Is this normal or can you not apply the graphene on glass? Thank you once again. My car with the stack turned out amazing. There were some gnats trying to walk on the hood and they kept sliding in place. Incredible.
Wait 1 week to apply anything. For the glass, yes it can be used, 2 things may influence it, you used way too much, or the prep wasn’t sufficient. To help diagnose you can join our facebook group bit.ly/DIYDetailFacebookGroup
@@diydetailofficial it looks like there is some sort of residue from rain on the windows from when the car sat on the dealer lot. Also there is a spot wheee a sticker used to be. You only see it when I go over it with panel prep or breath on it. Windows look clean until humidity hits it. I’m guess water spot remover would help? The only other thing was I recently got tint. Wasn’t sure if it was some sort of solution. Just thinking of any other issue
The only bad experience ive had appling any coating was adams advanced 9+ hear coating. If you follow the instructions you'll be guaranteed to have high spots and even a coulple hours later reapplying and wiping off it will not remove it. I've used two bottles on 4 jobs and have had issue every time. I've installed coatings to just shy of 100 vehicles and used many brands and only had high spot with just one coating. Always applied on a vary small area and test the cure and removal time to test with the coating and temp and humidity even if you've used it before nd if you follow that and your careful you wont have an issue.
Dude I feel the same way about Adams Graphene 🤦♂️ same issues with inconsistencies in the coatings. Each panels acts way different. Tried DIY once had great results and feedback from clients through and through
Great video. Yvan, I would like to hear your opinion on do you need to wash your car with a detergant soap after machine polishing before applying a ceramic coating or is it just enough to use a prep (IPA) and puit the coating on there.
Having a coating will also reduce scratching simply because of a coating’s self-cleaning ability from just a rinse - less debris on the surface before contact wash, less chance of scratching
Hi Nick & Yvan I noticed in this vid you are working on a Audi RSQ8. I also have a 1 yr old Q8 with light water spotting & swirls. Based your exp with Audi paint, what pad do you suggest I go with - your waffle pad or a micro fibre/wool?
If you have a two year coating, do you still have to compound, or even wet sand, at the end of two years? If it “faded” away or has reached the end of its life cycle, then it shouldn’t need to be removed, yes/no?
a light, one step polish is all that's needed to abrade the surface and prepare your paint for our ceramic coating. No need to worry about whether you've completely "removed" what's there -- a polish will clean and prepare the surface properly. Use panel prep, of course, as the final step before coating
I watched a previous video you guys did talking about 3 year ceramic coatings vs 8 year coatings. You were saying a 8 year ceramic coating is not as slick as a 5 year ceramic coating. So in your professional opinion I really like a super slick feel after coating. So should I use a 5 year coating vs 8 year to get more of a slick feel or add a slick topper after using a stand alone Ceramic coating? Also graphene helps with waters spots , does it have any other advantages over just a Ceramic coating?
My question would be, I just ceramic coated C6 Hydro on my car Saturday, Saturday night thunderstorm rained on the car, Sunday morning. I sprayed my car down with filtered water, I then dried with a towel with no pressure just through the towel on side panels, and the roof and pulled across until it was dry. No pressure was exerted on the towel. My question is, will the coding be fine less than 24 hours after applying C6 Hydro ceramic coating?
So that mean we cannot so simple to remove ceramic coating? For example once the coating been applied and after like 8 or 9 years would like re-coat again. Do I actually have to re-coat or remove old coating?
Also, We have 80% bad weather in UK so what you recommend to do mobile or in studio full detailing? Obviously can do with canopy/gazebo but rain and dampness can affect the ceramic coating process I guess.
I’ve never used their products. That said from a mathematical perspective, to have a 20 micron film build, you would need to apply 4-500 ml of product.
Ty for the great video. I've watched many of your videos and still not seeing or getting one thing. I have no idea what the previous owner did to the paint. I'm waiting for some of diy Detail products to come in including the 5yr kit. My question is, if I have unknown products on the paint or I have layer(s) of Gold Polish, Quick Beads or Ceramic Gloss etc, is Panel Prep all I need? Of course there's washing the car and drying it but in my eyes your now putting the ceramic coat on top of all that. That's OK??? You do not have to strip it down to clear coat?
At a minimum polish with The Gold Standard Polishing System to remove what’s on the paint. DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss and DIY Detail Quick Beads are not removed by chemicals only.
Great video, congratulations to both for all the videos and the product line, happy we have Diy products now avaliable in Europe. Can i ask please a confusing issue? How coatings are harder than substrate clear coat? Coatings are measured on pencil scale , witch is graphite ( pencil) hardness scale as you.mentioned . Graphite in mohs is 1 hardness, and clear coat is 2-4,5 depending on the clear coat manufacturers softer or harder clear. Clear coat is far more hard than any ceramic coat on the market. My kind regards keep.up.the excellent job
@@diydetailofficial graphite is 1 on mohs, and clear coat 2.5-4 according to Wikipedia and cannot be compared but I honour your perspective. Keep up the great work both of you. We are very happy having your line in Europe. Great products and great value for Diy and pros . My kind regards
Wiki is crowd sourced. Some companies also mistakenly market their coating as 9h on the mohs scale. Coatings are definitely harder than clear coat. A 6h pencil with 100 grams of weight on it will scratch factory clearcoat
good information. Any possibility of buying DIY Detail 5-year ceramic coating in some places in Europe? Living in Norway where salt and rust are a big problem for all cars. What are your views on salt removal (protection) products such as salt-x? I feel that products such as salt-x are marketed as products that seem a bit too good to be true. ((Salt-X is a water-based solution that immediately dissolves salt and salt residues and "demagnetizes" salt so that it immediately detaches from the surface.))
In this video you mention that the only way to remove ceramic coating is machine. What happens 5 years after the 5-year coating or 8 years after the 8-year coating? Can you re-apply ceramic coating? Or do you have to do something else?
You talked about using something like a water spot remover to revive/unclog coatings. Would using something similar like an acidic wash (Carpro Descale) do something similar or would that be too aggressive?
@@diydetailofficialwow thanks for the quick reply. How long should it dwell for? What order would you do stuff in if the car also needed to be decontaminated. There’s some rust spots, some tar, and just some general grime on the car. Would it go something like foam/presoak, then the tar and iron remover, contact wash, and then the water spot remover? Unrelated, I’ve been really interested in getting a sponge for rindless, how does the legacy sponge compare to something like the McKees gold sponge. I like the idea of a yellow sponge so I can see when there’s dirt on the sponge, but understand that the softer side of the sponge is block, which would make it harder to see. Thanks Nick or Yvan?
My wife was "eavesdropping" as I watched this video and said: "Are they trying to sell you something?" I said yes, they are trying to "sell me" the proper techniques and process about coatings and applications, then she asked "Don't you already KNOW all of this?" I told her I knew the BASICS, but not the science behind and about coatings. She is a typical person, who likes a shiny car, but has no interest in the processes that GIVE HER the shiny car she likes, whereas I can watch detailing videos like yours, all day and be raptly interested. A friend of hers said that: "Watching someone 'wash a car,' is like watching someone mow a lawn." - I've been known to watch those too. 🤣
Gents, I have a ‘23 Chevy truck with an all black plastic front grill and a lot of black trim everywhere coming in for the DIY 5 year coating. Can I coat the black plastics with the 5yr? Will the trim stay dark with ceramic on it? TIA!
If it’s new trim, absolutely! Once it’s older and started to oxidize you tend to lock in the oxidized trim with a ceramic coating so it’s best to use a trim-specific product at that point, but we coat new trim all the time 👍
@@dustin3700 oh, you misunderstand. I'm a detailer too, so I know why it costs that much, and that's part of my point. Why go through all that effort just so you can't touch it with anything? Then again, I started at a Ford dealership that had no (and I mean no) detailing tools/equipment and they still charge $1,500 for a ceramic coating. Brutal.
Hi I am using your metal ceramic I know it takes longer to flash than the paint ceramic but when it looks like I should level it feels like I am pushing glue is that the way it suppose to feel. I thought it should feel slick like on the paint. I am using it on chrome parts.
I have heard the only reason a ph balanced soap is used because the Coating gets clogged. That is the only reason I have heard. So the question ... Can a coating get clogged with any type of soap......or is there a preferred soap as to not clog the coating?
a coating will typically get clogged from salt on the roads during winter -- which is why a product like our Water Spot Remover is used to free up the pores of the coating. You'll notice the water beading snaps right back after a wash decon and then Water Spot Remover treatment.
So, are you saying the chemical resistance RUclips videos that detailers produce, where they spray a ceramic coated test panel with a chemical numerous times and wash each time to determine how long the coating will last, are pretty much for entertainment purposes only?
Yes but also they are revealing in their own way…it’s not real world type scenarios but it’s also telling how the coatings hold up even if those aren’t realistic torture tests for what would happen in real life
id argue a person still wants to use a ph neutral soap regardless of what is on the paint. its more about all the rubber gaskets on the car, not the coating, the wax/sealant, or even the paint.
Unless I missed it, I didn't hear anything about real world lifespan of most coatings. I know there are many variables, but can you really see 8 years. I'd be happy with 5 years.
Follow up that I forgot - truck has cheap dealer sealant on the exterior - best way to remove? Truck does not need mechanical swirl/scratch removal. APC? Diluted? Panel prep? What’s best way to strip a spray on sealant - we don’t know what it is tho.
So when are the new bottle tops coming out? I used the 5 year and the dropper top glugged it out. Not game over but there's room for improvement here. Love all your products! Keep it up fellas
@@diydetailofficial touché. You have a point. Im a visual person and also a construction worker so I figured when you said sheet of metal on concrete I pictured it and I was like okay I can see that however a thick sheet of glass might’ve made a bit more sense to me… how about a sheet of acrylic plastic??? That might make some sense too?? It can flex but it does have a breaking point like ceramic coating might. Which brings me to a hypothesis. You’ve never seen anybody apply ceramic coating on to a very flexible piece of painted plastic, and then bend it to see the ceramic coating crack or shatter (hypothetically speaking) that would prove that ceramic coating is indeed a coating and not just a wax on steroids. What I’m referring to is that a ceramic coating is often referred to as a coating that hardens once cured. And a wax may harden but since it is liquid at first it may flex like a candle wax per say. Oof can you guys make that type of video???!
@diydetailofficial Awesome, your videos are amazing. I have yet to try anything you guys sell but am looking forward to trying out your rinseless wash I think. Do they ship from Utah?
There's some waterspot removers and alkaline foam washes that sit outside that range, and there's some tar removers that can easily affect coatings too, so saying using "any chemical" and it will be fine isn't factual
Yes, you might say that Unibody is cheaper but I can tell you from first hand experience after having MANY Toyota body on frame vehicles that they ALL have had issues with RUST with some very serious! This comes from a self admitted Toyota Fanboy... come on Toyota, really 🙄
They could literally just add ceramic to the clear or just use a hard clear in the first place, the downside to both are the harder the clear the more work it takes to remove scratches.
paint, and clear used to be harder, you can thank the EPA and similar for the lack of durability in paint (water bourne paints just are not as durable as the old solvent based paints).@@dustin3700
What an absolute beautiful video guys.
DIY Detail about to put 99% of detailing product companies out of business.
The way these guys run their business, is how ever should.
No BS, no lying, they don’t rip off their customers, full openness of what’s in their chemicals/products, and they even HELP customers save product/money.
From the bottom of my heart, god bless you guys and your families.
Thank you so much!!
This is the best video I have seen in years and reminds me when Jason at Chicago Auto Pros went on the graphene hunt. When I first got back into detailing nobody was telling the real truth on ceramic coatings. They had to be infrared cured and there had to be multiple layers. I watched a lot of high end coatings fail and some actually worked as advertised. Be thankful Yvan is telling the truth because he has helped develop some many coatings on the market. The pencil hardness was fascinating and I did learn a lot! Thank you!
Thank you guys for this video!!!
Awesome to hear, thank you so much for listening!
This podcast series and Detailing 101 are my favorite! Loads of amazing information and knowledge shared, really loving it 👍
Glad you enjoy it!
Thanks again for another great video. I wash my cars very often, but because l had never watched any of these detailing videos, l had never heard of drying aid. I used to do the mistake of drying my cars before applying quick ceramic coating, but now l know better 😮
Glad to help
This deserves more views
Thank you, feel free to share it.
I think people would like to know if the coating loses its performance over the years. Do you have to remove the old coating before adding a new coating or can you put over top? Since putting a ceramic coating on my vehicle. I have been impressed with the ease of maintaining the vehicles exterior. I won't switch back to waxes.
If well maintained DIY Detail coatings will far outlast the advertised durability. If they do loose performance, simply lightly polish and coat again
Thank you! This is a great video that I will share with customers as you so articulately explain coatings in terms any non-detailer can understand! 😁👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks David
Excellent topic, I really like these more in depth ceramic coating videos! Thank you for the great content! I've watched this one a few times now.
excellent, thanks for the support!
Excellent stuff guys. Helps me a lot. Thank you from me down here in Australia
Our pleasure!
I actually installed the 8 year coating and had phenomenal results! It’s been about 2 months now and I just noticed today a small hand sized section under the driver side lower body line where there is a high spot. I haven’t noticed it until today, but I was curious since it’s in such an obscure spot should I just let it go or do I try to light hand polish it off? I’m a perfectionist but I don’t want to compromise the coating in that area for the sake of uniformity! Great content as always 🎉
Let it go unless it really bothers you….otherwise you can lightly hand polish .
Cannot wait! Timer is set! 🎉😊🎉
See you soon!
Great session guys. Damn...that Explains why, after leveling your Metal coating on all the chrome of a Harley, the next day when my sleeve brushed against it, a milky cloud streak appeared. I had to rub down the entire bike a 2nd time, and even a 3rd when they came back again a couple days later.
Warning to all....the DIY foam applicator is great but it doesn't soak up a ton of coating, leaving more coating to apply. So when you're about to add those few more drops, don't. There's prob. enough still in the applicator.
Thank you for commenting.
This is a good video but deserves a part 2 because people watching this who have and have not much experience will take this video and some of the topics discussed and apply to their vehicles, such as doing coatings out door yes u can but doing it out door means dust wont be flying around and also not where theres a lot of foot traffic or vehicles passing by, second u have to know ur coatings that it would not flash/dry up on u too fast that you wouldn't be able to do a wipe down the high spots specially. As far as hardness of paint itself you have to know what type of paint was used because paint manufacturers have incorporated ceramic for quite some time now to improve their hardness hence we have what we all started calling soft and hard paint. You have adjust the chemicals u use and the process based on what paint ur working on and not by what u saw on video or what they tell u. This video tackles a lot of good points and as ive said needs a follow up video for people who will be taking the info literally and will for sure will not get the right result and will be referring to this video as their reference. Great stuff guys and more power!
We never stop learning so we encourage folks to keep doing the same!
@@diydetailofficial Amen to that!
Great Video guys. Very informative
Thanks David!
Owners Pride Spotless is the best waterspot remover for bringing back coatings that Ive found to date!
Don't sleep on our Water Spot Remover either:)
Excellent content, learned a lot :)
Glad it was helpful!
Great information. Love all the knowledge you put out.
Thank you
Wonderful video as always, thank you for all these details! One followup question, as you are applying the coating you touched upon not applying too much to the applicator pad. What size panel section would you recommend doing as you go along and how much product do you recommend topping off the applicator before the next section i.e. a drop, two, three, or multiple?
2-3 drops, as long as you’re applying product to the surface, no need for more. Generally the size of a door, 1/2 a hood etc.
@@diydetailofficial Thank you, this is very helpful! Looking forward to trying yours out once it is back in stock, can’t wait!
I hope this is not an annoying question… I just shipped my Toyota Sequoia to Hawaii, but the covered garage I was planning on disappeared; my alternative is open air car park…sitting for 9 months driving for 3 months . I love this vehicle, but it is dinged and scratched. Having 48 hours it was rough washed then chemical guys carbon force was applied (which does not come with any instructions by the way) and kinda polished with a microfiber cloth. My goal is to avoid rust, but if you ha e any thoughts on future care I would love to hear them… mahalo
A ceramic coating is your best protection for the paint. For the chassis and other areas a rust preventative product like fluid film may work .
Good stuff! Any tips on coating a white vehicle?
just be incredibly methodical! oh, and we did a video about this: ruclips.net/user/shortsqQwtG7vIvzM
Best video i ever watched so far
Thank you
I used the 3 year coating on of of my two new cars. First time doing the whole gambit, decon soap, clay and iron remover, polishing and finally panel prep. All DIY stuff except for the soap, easy to use and great results. Kinda my practice shot as l go on to the second car. You mentioned to little ceramic coating as a issue as well as using to much. How can you tell you are using to little? I kinda had a hard time (my own issue) seeing the coating on grey paint. The final looks good just can't help thinking i might have used to little as i wanted to make sure i had enough left over for the second car. Like Nick probably just over thinking it JK. But how can you tell and could I add a second coat... still over thinking it😅
No need for a second coat. As long as the surface was wet with coating behind the applicator, you have enough.
@@diydetailofficial thanks as I run the back of my hand over surfaces on the car all is smooth and silky. Great stuff! Thanks for all the videos on each of the coatings and their properties and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for a very informative video! I'm wondering what the shelf life is of your ceramic coatings after the bottle has been opened in case I need to repair a rock-chip or scratch down the line. For example, will I need to buy another bottle of the 8-year coating to fix a few small sections if I find defects in a year or two, or will the remainder of the bottle still be good for a few years so long as it's stored properly after application?
If kept in a cool environment, 1 year is achievable.
One question - how does the DIY detail ceramic coatings compare to the other common coatings that we’ve all seen and tried, gtechniq, armor shield, etc. Would love to hear more about what is truly different and sets the DIY detail apart from all the countless other coatings. Have been using the same coatings on my personal cars for a while and am interested to see if it’s worth switching.
We devoted an entire podcast to this very subject:) ruclips.net/video/5St7YxOJANY/видео.html
I applied the 5year coating a couple of days ago for the first time. Very easy to apply and level. Nice gloss and very slick. I've also used other brands . This is as easy or easier to apply as anything else ive used. One tip is, be careful with the amount that drips out of the bottle ,,it's a lot faster than I was used to but the guys are getting that sorted I believe .
It all comes down to concentration and quality. A lot of the companies get their material from the 3-4 chemical companies. Not sure about DIY...hyperclean is a small company trying to do the chemistry stuff on their own.
So we know that most coatings can't be completely removed without sanding, but (generally speaking) if you want to re-coat with a different coating, can you just use something like your Gold Standard polish and not worry about it? For example: say my car is coated my car with CSL/EXO and I wanted to switch to DIY 8 year, or I want to go from DIY 8 year to Diamond Protech DB36? I'm indecisive and I have a hard time committing to one coating!
Yes you don’t need to worry about removing it completely, you just want to abrade the surface of your previous coating for maximum adhesion of DIY Detail ceramic coating. So a one step polish with Gold Standard would be perfect for that
This is a long shot! But with Ivan’s experience there is hope! I have a customer who had a dealership apply diamond clear incorrectly. Would any of the DIY products work to remove that layer. Or will it need compound polished and coated with diy ceramic coating.
You can do a polish with Gold Standard Polish for sure. All you need to do is abrade the surface (not worry about removing the coating completely) and that can be accomplished with a one-step polish using Gold Standard Polish 👍
If you apply two coats of the ceramic coating 2 hours apart. Do you need to rewipe with a panel prep spray in between, to remove any minor dust that may have accumulated? Or do you just re-apply the second coat directly over the first coat without wiping?
Re-apply only.
Wow. great video. thank you both. some people who run video channels should take a look and think they know everything about cermaic coatings. they too could learn a lot like me!
i have 2 questions: you say rinsless wash is very good for a ceramic coated car. some others say that, for example, ONR would "clog" the ceramic and thus prevent the ceramic from working and only the (non-existent sealing performance?) of ONR would remain... is that true?
2nd question: you say that for a ceramic it would be sufficient if the paintwork is very clean and no polishing is necessary. I understand that. but the other way around, they say that it doesn't work to apply a ceramic on to another existing ceramic (even if the paint is very clean). I think it should be possible, even if the "new" ceramic cannot bond to the paint. but it would work, just not for as long, but maybe better than a detailer that you put on a ceramic. because that works too...(and is cheaper, yes I know; but I'm only asking on principle). thank you for your answer
Our Rinseless wash is very different than ONR. For ours it’s safe, others you will need to test.
Yes you can apply ceramic over ceramic as long as it’s clean. As you mentioned though you will not get all the benefits. It’s best to give a light polish in order to properly prepare the surface.
Sorry for the questions. This is such a great resource.
1) how soon should you put a ceramic gloss on the stack? And can it be another brand?
2) I tried to apply just the 3 year to glass on another car but it seemed to fog up. I panicked and used panel prep to get it back to clear. Is this normal or can you not apply the graphene on glass?
Thank you once again. My car with the stack turned out amazing. There were some gnats trying to walk on the hood and they kept sliding in place. Incredible.
Wait 1 week to apply anything.
For the glass, yes it can be used, 2 things may influence it, you used way too much, or the prep wasn’t sufficient.
To help diagnose you can join our facebook group
bit.ly/DIYDetailFacebookGroup
@@diydetailofficial it looks like there is some sort of residue from rain on the windows from when the car sat on the dealer lot. Also there is a spot wheee a sticker used to be. You only see it when I go over it with panel prep or breath on it. Windows look clean until humidity hits it. I’m guess water spot remover would help?
The only other thing was I recently got tint. Wasn’t sure if it was some sort of solution. Just thinking of any other issue
The only bad experience ive had appling any coating was adams advanced 9+ hear coating. If you follow the instructions you'll be guaranteed to have high spots and even a coulple hours later reapplying and wiping off it will not remove it. I've used two bottles on 4 jobs and have had issue every time. I've installed coatings to just shy of 100 vehicles and used many brands and only had high spot with just one coating. Always applied on a vary small area and test the cure and removal time to test with the coating and temp and humidity even if you've used it before nd if you follow that and your careful you wont have an issue.
Dude I feel the same way about Adams Graphene 🤦♂️ same issues with inconsistencies in the coatings. Each panels acts way different. Tried DIY once had great results and feedback from clients through and through
Dustin, sorry you had those issues, our ceramic coatings are much easier.
The Mitsubishi Scale! That's the "These go to 11" (Spinal Tap) version of the Pencil Scale.
Lol
I’ve tried many ceramic coating diy detail coating are one of the best
Thank you.
Great video. Yvan, I would like to hear your opinion on do you need to wash your car with a detergant soap after machine polishing before applying a ceramic coating or is it just enough to use a prep (IPA) and puit the coating on there.
When using DIY Detail Gold Standard Polish, no need. With other polishes it may be necessary because the solvents and oils they use as carriers.
How long does the coating last in the bottle once opened
Has it got a shelf life
Many thanks
6 months
Having a coating will also reduce scratching simply because of a coating’s self-cleaning ability from just a rinse - less debris on the surface before contact wash, less chance of scratching
True.
Hi Nick & Yvan
I noticed in this vid you are working on a Audi RSQ8. I also have a 1 yr old Q8 with light water spotting & swirls. Based your exp with Audi paint, what pad do you suggest I go with - your waffle pad or a micro fibre/wool?
Start with the foam( least agressive) and work up from there if needed.
I'm partial to my Yvan/ Chuck Norris analogy on Facebook 😆
Remind me of what that is again?
Thank you
If you have a two year coating, do you still have to compound, or even wet sand, at the end of two years? If it “faded” away or has reached the end of its life cycle, then it shouldn’t need to be removed, yes/no?
a light, one step polish is all that's needed to abrade the surface and prepare your paint for our ceramic coating. No need to worry about whether you've completely "removed" what's there -- a polish will clean and prepare the surface properly. Use panel prep, of course, as the final step before coating
Thank you!
I watched a previous video you guys did talking about 3 year ceramic coatings vs 8 year coatings. You were saying a 8 year ceramic coating is not as slick as a 5 year ceramic coating. So in your professional opinion I really like a super slick feel after coating. So should I use a 5 year coating vs 8 year to get more of a slick feel or add a slick topper after using a stand alone Ceramic coating?
Also graphene helps with waters spots , does it have any other advantages over just a Ceramic coating?
The slickest option is our 8 year topped with our 3 year coating.
Yes Graphene is mostly for Waterspot resistance, but also provides a slick surface.
My question would be, I just ceramic coated C6 Hydro on my car Saturday, Saturday night thunderstorm rained on the car, Sunday morning. I sprayed my car down with filtered water, I then dried with a towel with no pressure just through the towel on side panels, and the roof and pulled across until it was dry. No pressure was exerted on the towel. My question is, will the coding be fine less than 24 hours after applying C6 Hydro ceramic coating?
Yes, but if you coat a car again, please resist the urge to wash it for at least 7 days
Considering that your ceramic coatings bonds to the paint (1-2 microns), Does this mean it has filling capabilities in a way?
Yes slightly.
So that mean we cannot so simple to remove ceramic coating? For example once the coating been applied and after like 8 or 9 years would like re-coat again. Do I actually have to re-coat or remove old coating?
Also, We have 80% bad weather in UK so what you recommend to do mobile or in studio full detailing? Obviously can do with canopy/gazebo but rain and dampness can affect the ceramic coating process I guess.
Yes, you need to polish to prep for a new coating. DIY Detail coatings can be installed and rained on in 1 hour after installation.
Hey Yvan, what’s your opinion of SystemX ceramic coatings? The Max variant in particular, they claim it cures to over 20 microns thick!
Very curious to hear more thoughts on SystemX products
I’ve never used their products. That said from a mathematical perspective, to have a 20 micron film build, you would need to apply 4-500 ml of product.
@@diydetailofficial the Max bottle is 60ml, they claim it does 2 cars.
@@AJ56 Id stop believing ANYTHING system X claims lol
@@donjohnson1416 any bad personal experience?
Ty for the great video.
I've watched many of your videos and still not seeing or getting one thing. I have no idea what the previous owner did to the paint. I'm waiting for some of diy Detail products to come in including the 5yr kit.
My question is, if I have unknown products on the paint or I have layer(s) of Gold Polish, Quick Beads or Ceramic Gloss etc, is Panel Prep all I need? Of course there's washing the car and drying it but in my eyes your now putting the ceramic coat on top of all that. That's OK??? You do not have to strip it down to clear coat?
At a minimum polish with The Gold Standard Polishing System to remove what’s on the paint. DIY Detail Ceramic Gloss and DIY Detail Quick Beads are not removed by chemicals only.
Great video, congratulations to both for all the videos and the product line, happy we have Diy products now avaliable in Europe. Can i ask please a confusing issue? How coatings are harder than substrate clear coat?
Coatings are measured on pencil scale , witch is graphite ( pencil) hardness scale as you.mentioned . Graphite in mohs is 1 hardness, and clear coat is 2-4,5 depending on the clear coat manufacturers softer or harder clear. Clear coat is far more hard than any ceramic coat on the market.
My kind regards keep.up.the excellent job
Clear coat is also measured on the graphite scale, not the mohs scale
@@diydetailofficial graphite is 1 on mohs, and clear coat 2.5-4 according to Wikipedia and cannot be compared but I honour your perspective.
Keep up the great work both of you. We are very happy having your line in Europe. Great products and great value for Diy and pros .
My kind regards
Wiki is crowd sourced. Some companies also mistakenly market their coating as 9h on the mohs scale. Coatings are definitely harder than clear coat. A 6h pencil with 100 grams of weight on it will scratch factory clearcoat
good information. Any possibility of buying DIY Detail 5-year ceramic coating in some places in Europe?
Living in Norway where salt and rust are a big problem for all cars.
What are your views on salt removal (protection) products such as salt-x?
I feel that products such as salt-x are marketed as products that seem a bit too good to be true.
((Salt-X is a water-based solution that immediately dissolves salt and salt residues and "demagnetizes" salt so that it immediately detaches from the surface.))
Yes DIY Detail is currently in the Netherlands ( asterics.nl/?s=Diy ). Our Waterspot remover is excellent at removing road salt.
Is diy still launching on Amazon later this month?
that's the goal, stand by for confirmation....
People sometimes ask me if ceramic is good, why companies don’t use them. How would you answer this?
Auto manufacturers don’t use them because it would cut into dealer profits
Are your ceramic coatings safe on paint protection film?
Yes
Wonderful video !
btw Do you offer personal training
Yes, Yvan provides training. You can email him directly at yvan@diydetail.com
thank you ! @@diydetailofficial
In this video you mention that the only way to remove ceramic coating is machine. What happens 5 years after the 5-year coating or 8 years after the 8-year coating?
Can you re-apply ceramic coating? Or do you have to do something else?
You will need to polish to deep clean and abrade the surface
You talked about using something like a water spot remover to revive/unclog coatings. Would using something similar like an acidic wash (Carpro Descale) do something similar or would that be too aggressive?
The DIY Detail Water Spot Remover is more aggressive, and efficient
@@diydetailofficialwow thanks for the quick reply. How long should it dwell for?
What order would you do stuff in if the car also needed to be decontaminated. There’s some rust spots, some tar, and just some general grime on the car.
Would it go something like foam/presoak, then the tar and iron remover, contact wash, and then the water spot remover?
Unrelated, I’ve been really interested in getting a sponge for rindless, how does the legacy sponge compare to something like the McKees gold sponge. I like the idea of a yellow sponge so I can see when there’s dirt on the sponge, but understand that the softer side of the sponge is block, which would make it harder to see.
Thanks Nick or Yvan?
My wife was "eavesdropping" as I watched this video and said: "Are they trying to sell you something?" I said yes, they are trying to "sell me" the proper techniques and process about coatings and applications, then she asked "Don't you already KNOW all of this?" I told her I knew the BASICS, but not the science behind and about coatings.
She is a typical person, who likes a shiny car, but has no interest in the processes that GIVE HER the shiny car she likes, whereas I can watch detailing videos like yours, all day and be raptly interested. A friend of hers said that: "Watching someone 'wash a car,' is like watching someone mow a lawn." - I've been known to watch those too. 🤣
Excellent
If i ceramic coat my rims, does something like brake buster remove it?
No it won’t
Gents, I have a ‘23 Chevy truck with an all black plastic front grill and a lot of black trim everywhere coming in for the DIY 5 year coating. Can I coat the black plastics with the 5yr? Will the trim stay dark with ceramic on it? TIA!
If it’s new trim, absolutely! Once it’s older and started to oxidize you tend to lock in the oxidized trim with a ceramic coating so it’s best to use a trim-specific product at that point, but we coat new trim all the time 👍
Awesome, customer will be happy to hear this! Thanks for the quick response!
Thank you for the question
It never made sense to me that someone would spend up to $2,000+ to then have to be more careful with the vehicle when they get it back. 🤦♂️
haha very true
Most of the cost is in the prep and polishing, and your purchasing the results not the process or type of product.
@@dustin3700 oh, you misunderstand. I'm a detailer too, so I know why it costs that much, and that's part of my point. Why go through all that effort just so you can't touch it with anything? Then again, I started at a Ford dealership that had no (and I mean no) detailing tools/equipment and they still charge $1,500 for a ceramic coating. Brutal.
Hi I am using your metal ceramic I know it takes longer to flash than the paint ceramic but when it looks like I should level it feels like I am pushing glue is that the way it suppose to feel. I thought it should feel slick like on the paint. I am using it on chrome parts.
The initial wipe is sticky
Great video
Thank you.
How hard is it to do a paint correction if you have a ceramic coating on your vehicle?
No different, but you will need to apply a new coating
How soon after applying a coating can I apply ceramic gloss as a topper?
You can use it as a topper 2 hours after coating but we typically recommend just wait a week to wash and then apply it as your drying aid then
I have heard the only reason a ph balanced soap is used because the Coating gets clogged. That is the only reason I have heard. So the question ...
Can a coating get clogged with any type of soap......or is there a preferred soap as to not clog the coating?
a coating will typically get clogged from salt on the roads during winter -- which is why a product like our Water Spot Remover is used to free up the pores of the coating. You'll notice the water beading snaps right back after a wash decon and then Water Spot Remover treatment.
Can u put a c😊eramic coat over a carnuba wax? A synthetic wax?
No, but you can add a wax or sealant over a coating.
So, are you saying the chemical resistance RUclips videos that detailers produce, where they spray a ceramic coated test panel with a chemical numerous times and wash each time to determine how long the coating will last, are pretty much for entertainment purposes only?
Yes but also they are revealing in their own way…it’s not real world type scenarios but it’s also telling how the coatings hold up even if those aren’t realistic torture tests for what would happen in real life
id argue a person still wants to use a ph neutral soap regardless of what is on the paint. its more about all the rubber gaskets on the car, not the coating, the wax/sealant, or even the paint.
Good point
Unless I missed it, I didn't hear anything about real world lifespan of most coatings. I know there are many variables, but can you really see 8 years. I'd be happy with 5 years.
Here’s a great companion video to this podcast: ruclips.net/video/5St7YxOJANY/видео.html
Follow up that I forgot - truck has cheap dealer sealant on the exterior - best way to remove? Truck does not need mechanical swirl/scratch removal. APC? Diluted? Panel prep? What’s best way to strip a spray on sealant - we don’t know what it is tho.
DIY Detail All Clean 15/1 should do it, but preferably a light polish.
Thanks again
you're welcome!
If I ceramic coat my car, should I or can I apply waxes and sealants to it after?
You absolutely can!
when polish and pads will be back in stock
Gold Standard Polish is back in stock as of today!! Pads are out of our control and can take time, we will let you know as soon as we know
I'll be there 👍😁
see you soon!
So when are the new bottle tops coming out? I used the 5 year and the dropper top glugged it out. Not game over but there's room for improvement here. Love all your products! Keep it up fellas
The next batch will have a reduced orifice size
Why compare to a sheet of steel tho 🤔 would’ve made soooo much more sense to compare to a sheet of glass. Especially on the mattress analogy
Glass can shatter easily, steel like our coating will flex without breaking.
@@diydetailofficial touché. You have a point. Im a visual person and also a construction worker so I figured when you said sheet of metal on concrete I pictured it and I was like okay I can see that however a thick sheet of glass might’ve made a bit more sense to me… how about a sheet of acrylic plastic??? That might make some sense too?? It can flex but it does have a breaking point like ceramic coating might. Which brings me to a hypothesis. You’ve never seen anybody apply ceramic coating on to a very flexible piece of painted plastic, and then bend it to see the ceramic coating crack or shatter (hypothetically speaking) that would prove that ceramic coating is indeed a coating and not just a wax on steroids. What I’m referring to is that a ceramic coating is often referred to as a coating that hardens once cured. And a wax may harden but since it is liquid at first it may flex like a candle wax per say. Oof can you guys make that type of video???!
Who edits your videos?
Nick and Sylvie
@diydetailofficial Awesome, your videos are amazing. I have yet to try anything you guys sell but am looking forward to trying out your rinseless wash I think. Do they ship from Utah?
@@diydetailofficial Wonderful editing! Thank you for the reply!
Our products ship from Nebraska
Thank you for the questions
What is love marks?
Marks left on paint from improper wash technique
An angry ex is still gonna write a nasty word on the side of the vehicle 😂
Unfortunately
6:22 why you cut him off. He was about to say something and forgot
Welcome to Nick’s world
@@diydetailofficial 😂😂😂😂
It’s a mace! Handle, chain, spiked ball.
Yes indeed lol
I love the PH neutral crowd 😂 coatings can’t be removed chemically, I tell people to use whatever they want to clean it.
there ya go!
You don't think you can affect your ceramic coating with misuse of chemicals?
@@OnTrackDetailing anything in the range of 4-12 is safe.
There's some waterspot removers and alkaline foam washes that sit outside that range, and there's some tar removers that can easily affect coatings too, so saying using "any chemical" and it will be fine isn't factual
Any regular detailing chemicals. Tar removers are hydrocarbon solvents ( they do not factor on the PH scale) .
👍
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Y’all sold me a broken IK foam sprayer 😓
very sorry to hear about that, obviously we would never want that to happen! Did you email amy@diydetail.com?
Yes, you might say that Unibody is cheaper but I can tell you from first hand experience after having MANY Toyota body on frame vehicles that they ALL have had issues with RUST with some very serious!
This comes from a self admitted Toyota Fanboy... come on Toyota, really 🙄
Rust is very difficult to deal with once it starts.
First!!!!
Thank you
Can I use 91% ISO alcohol if I run out of panel prep during a ceramic coating? Thank you !
It’s not very effective. If you use panel prep like we do in our videos ( spraying on a towel, not on the car) you will use much less.
Why don’t car manufacturers install ceramic coatings at the factory in addition to the clear coat?
Cost savings
They could literally just add ceramic to the clear or just use a hard clear in the first place, the downside to both are the harder the clear the more work it takes to remove scratches.
paint, and clear used to be harder, you can thank the EPA and similar for the lack of durability in paint (water bourne paints just are not as durable as the old solvent based paints).@@dustin3700