- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! - Find all the parts for your VW or Audi! - www.shopdap.com/ Haldex Controller Gen5 0CQ (MQB/MK7) www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-mk7-mqb-gen5.html Haldex Controller Gen4 (Plug and Play) www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-gen4-plug-and-play.html Haldex Controller Gen2 (Plug and Play) www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-gen2-plug-and-play.html Haldex Controller Gen1 (Plug and Play) www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-gen1-plug-and-play.html Haldex Controller Manual Switch www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-manual-switch.html
I just installed this on my 8P Audi A3. It is fun to drive the car in FWD mode to feel torque steer. The track mode seems to hold the Haldex pump on longer than stock as it goes back to 100/0 slower. Driving around with the Haldex locked defaults to 65/35. The car feels like a true AWD car and going through a turn is quite different. I could be imagining it but when I parked the car I seemed to be smelling a mild clutch like burning smell coming from the rear of the car. I will use it sparingly as it must wear out the Haldex faster. I don't want to replace such an expensive part. When you put the car into FWD mode and you are driving 30+ MPH and you give it the beans, your car will accelerate faster then if power was pushed to the rear. I have a stage 2 A3 with the stock K03. I did two 0-60s with launch control active and I did 0-60 in 5.24 seconds. I turned on the Haldex Controller and set it to do 50/50 between 0-12 MPH and 50/50 13-23 MPH and 80/20 between 24-36 MPH and then 100/0 from 37 onward. I did 0-60 in 4.96 seconds. .25 seconds faster. That would maybe remove .3 to .5 seconds off your quarter mile time. This is a fun upgrade. Auto cross, track events or rare launches are probably when I will use it. Driving around in FWD may help with MGP. That would take some detailed testing and long drives at HWY speeds.
2 year update. My A3 now has a K04, full suspension upgrades, chassis bracing, front and rear LSDs and United Motorsport Haldex tune. Using all that with this controller allows me to have good performance at track days. I only run a few laps at at time and I watch the Haldex fluid temps in the app on my phone. I have a lot of fun with a full time AWD car on the track. I rarely use this in my off track driving as to keep the wear and tear down and I know I probably do enough wear and tear on track days. I know a guy who had a MY 2019 RS3 and he ran this controller full time, all the time and he said he never had issues for a year. I am not sure if I believe him but he is a good guy and a solid mechanic.
@@kylemandt527 man i was thinking about front&rear lsd for my S3 8L Gen 1 haldex. Can you please explain to me how do they help? Im a hillclimb driver and im building S3 now. I need as much REAR as possible! Thanks a lot !
3.39 From what I read in forums, the pump is always on anyway whether you engage the AWD or not. To me, that highly does make sense because otherwise it would be way too slow for the system to wait for the pump to do its work, in order to activate the Haldex clutch.
I've got it and it is pretty sweet. You can tell a huge difference - whenever fooling around can select 50/50 lock then put it right back into passthrough mode for regular driving. It has some cool schedules you configure off of speed, boost, etc. that you can set up for your intended purpose. I think it's awesome!! The developer is very friendly and responsive too, as I'd reached out with questions.
Locking your haldex may prematurely damage it. Keep in mind it is not designed to be a permanent AWD, with this tool you'll shorten its life dramatically, and it is already not the strongest part of the modern VAG MQBs
Some people are heading for big bills to replace Haldex. The same people will no doubt also be complaining about VAG reliability. This is a solution looking for a problem.
I’d only lock it for launching the car from 0-100kmh For traction ya know? beyond that the ratio will stay 60-40 or even just off. ( 60-40 was the ratio in the GMC SCYCLONE)
@@tony_5156 did the scyclone use a Haldex? I don’t believe so but I like the way you think....same thing I would do,0-60 50/50 or so depending on power level.do you know if it would be possible to split torque enough for some sideways hooning? I assume the system won’t allow a 90/10 or even 100% rear.thanks btw the typhoon was another GM gem.
With the proper high performance tires like Nitto NT01's your car is going to have plenty of grip and will hook up just fine from a dig or from a roll. Plus if you don't have a fully built motor, built transmission, and a bigger turbo then this really isn't going to make much of a difference if you aren't putting down 500+ wheel horsepower. Tires will make a world of difference and won't deplete the life of your all wheel drive/4 motion system. This haldex controller is a hard pass for me and a waste of money.
Once the rear seat bottom is out, the plastic LATCH covers can be easily removed. Without them in place, the seat bottom slides into position MUCH more easily. From there, the LATCH covers are easy to install. I'm not sure if it's faster or slower, but there's less struggling with getting the cushion aligned under the LATCH covers if they're not present while installing the seat cushion. Give it a try next time you remove the seat. Keep up the good work.
I installed this on my RS3 first time today and it took me half an hour for the whole process (easier than I thought). I made 2 straight cuts (20 mm long, 7 mm apart) on the side of the rubber grommet with scissors, so the harness can go through. After the grommet was put back, I sealed the hole with high quality and waterproof electrical duct tape. I placed the controller at the back in the trunk on the existing foam. I used a Velcro (hook and loop fastener) to hold the controller securely in place. The Velcro method will allow me to temporarily remove the controller from the car as I wish. Now, the fun part is to play with the settings and to set them correctly is the hardest part.
@@andremille Big difference when you set it up correctly for the sweet spot, I feel like I have an extra 50HP. The car launches so much harder and faster when you set 80:20 or 70:30 torque split between 0 and 40km/h, then 50:50 torque split from there on. This is to get the heavier front end going first, then quickly push hard with 50:50. You can view all these happening on the phone.
@@HanSolo__ Yes, you can easily do a power oversteer with 50:50 even if it is not your intention and even if you have cup 2 tyres. So I would not recommend 50:50 if you are not good at controlling oversteer, it is very dangerous.
Shame the wiring harness doesn’t come with a preinstalled grommet, that would have made for a perfect clean quick and simple installation with no worries about sealing that aperture from the elements.
Is there any comparison test between the normal haldex and the haldex controller on rollers in order to evaluate its benefits? If not why don't you perform a test? Keep up the good work!!!!
3:00 you will spin the whole system even if the clutch is not engaged, because the wheels are conected and because they will spin up, the whole 4wd system behind the haldex will also so there will be no difference between haldex on or off
Great for a rally car, but because the clutches also act as a "center differential", you will bind up your drive-train on a dry road. Just like a 4x4 truck.
Yep, that's impossible. You would need a center diff between the front and rear axle. A torsen diff for example, which would make it a REAL quattro. I dont agree that audi puts the quattro badge on a haldex car, it's just marketing for people who dont know what they're driving
@@wesley8096 Its not really "real" haldex either. The quattro ultra can in dynamic operation send 100% torque to the rear continuously and its always active, compared to haldex which is reactive. So if you use OBDeleven or VCDS you can clearly see the clutch closed almost constantly in dynamic.
@@wesley8096 what makes it a "real quattro"? ruclips.net/video/J2ejrS06f4E/видео.html (the A3 has haldex and the Passat has torsen) at least i would expect it to get off the rollers faster than the "worse" haldex counterpart if it was the one and only "real quattro".
Depending on the generation on haldex the pump is always running either way if the haldex is active or not. So if it's on 24/7 the pump don't work more as it does stock
This is pretty slick Honestly want to spend the 1k just to see what kind of gas mileage I get with it in true FWD mode. I expected to get 30+ easily when I bought my R but sadly can't get much better than 25mpg avg. My APR stg 2 2016 GLI regularly got 35+ mpg in the summer....guess that's why I assumed they would be similar but boy was I wrong lol
Haldex consumes about 23-30% of your total output. Running FWD at all times will benefit your gas mileage but will not be the same as the regular FWD cars due to all the extra weight. You're probably better off just unplugging the haldex cable if you really want FWD only (it's free).
@@GForceConnections yeah I wouldn't doubt that one bit. Still have a transfer case deal (I know it's not what it's called but does basically same shit) spinning and the driveshaft as well. Could also use that USP I think it is that makes that burnout switch with the little remote. You can switch it to fwd only but you get lights on the dash when it's activated. I'm guessing it electronically disconnects the haldex temporarily so it fails to work just have to stare at a bunch of error lights on the dash 🤣🤣 this box would atleast keep the dash from looking like a xmas tree
Same here. Came from a MK5 GLI getting sometimes 38mpg. Hoped I would get at least 31mpg with this Haldex but the best I've seen is roughly 28mpg at 45mph with the a/c off.
Keep in mind there is always some drag from the rear diff and other bearings related to rear drive that will always be dragging no matter if you are in fwd or awd
@1:34 "Haldex can't engage when you're on the brakes..." Wait what? So on road courses, rallies, and hill climbs where it's VERY common to use the brakes in conjunction with the throttle to control the balance/disposition of the car Haldex does not allow drive to the rear wheels? That's a true shame, didn't know that.
HPA Motorsport do Haldex box which makes Haldex engage while braking. They just don't have this for Haldex V yet. I hope it changes soon as it would be preferred solution for ultimate sports driving.
This is one of the reasons why people prefer torsen, because torsen is a mechanical AWD, unlike haldex, so it wont disengage when you brake, and has more predictible handling. Downside is that its always active, so you gonna have your fuel economy cut, while haldex disengages when not needed giving you FWD economy.
Pre coronavirus that would cost 199.99$, I don't see what the fuss of 850$ extra is all about. See it in this way, there's boxes that "trick" your ecu to send more fuel to your injectors. This seems to do the same thing to the haldex pump. Kinda greedy imo.
A device that costs what a ecu/tcu costs? Sweet. I think there's an option for half the cost out there. Love you DAP, but I'm not rich enough for this one.
haldex is another upgrade this is costly but will help make the car fun like the ecu and tcu you refer to. the haldex currently offered costs about this much. the difference here is that you have a unit to move from car to car. the other version there is no hardware and the creator over there keeps all the extra funds you pay with. it seems the other guy needs to lower the price of his downloadable tune.
So this company is named Deutsche Auto Parts, DAP because they sell parts for German cars, if they'd sell parts for French cars their name would be... ...different to Deutsche Auto Parts.
I'm curious to see if anyone who dose highway or daily commute has gotten better mpgs with it in the off position. (Fwd only). I like this over a tune or other controller because of the ease of adjustability.
So if I remember correctly, the haldex puts itself in 52/48 when you turn off your ESC... so if you want to do your 1/4 mile you can just do that and punch it again at 70 km/h or so and you will save yourself $1k. On the track you do want as much HP to the back as possible to avoid the terrible understeering the car has so again, you leave it at 52/48 (what you really want is 20/80 but by design your haldex cannot do that). Overall this is just a front wheel drive and it behaves as such. Source: I own an S3.
@@GiovanniGamer345 LoL, until it rains or snows then you will need a second car just to go get toile paper. My R just ran neck and neck (with just a piggy back power module) with a new M2 comp, and the M4 on the highway...last time I checked those where another 45k$ more...sorry not in my budget. And the only BMW I’d ever drive would be an E46 M and good luck there. They are either 40k$ for 15 year old car or your buying a ragged out POS. Not to mention my lap times at Vegas Speedway are still just as fast as if not faster than heavily modded E46 M’s. That’s going to depend a lot if the driver is any good. You can keep your BMW Gio, I’ll see ya in my rear view...
@@hunterlane3323 you indeed have a great car I'm not saying that, changing the turbos in this golf makes it faster than m5s and rs6s its a Hella of a car, but you completely missed the point on you question the engagement I really think you would have lots more fun with a rwd vehicle
Why doesn't it simply include a new grommet on the new wire connecting to the Haldex, especially for $1,000? Especially so you don't have to de-pin the connecters, potentially damaging them, to relocate a $2 grommet.
"Haldex Blue" you're referring to is basically a Haldex controller with a different map/tune on it. The colour is sort of irrelevant as it's just a cover. But the Haldex controllers you see like those (the selectable-mode and the competition ones) those are actually made by Haldex themselves, they're just sold by various tuner-type companies (HPA, Neuspeed, etc.). So there you're actually changing it to a controller designed by the company that made the coupling to begin with. Never really heard about "extra wear on the transmission" from using one, but anything is possible. This doesn't change anything about the transmission, just the way the centre coupling apportions power to the rear-end. These Van Der Veer boxes at DAP though, they are piggybacks it looks like, rather than replacement controllers. They are basically causing the stock Haldex unit w/stock controller to behave differently. It's a different way of getting to the same thing I guess. Cost is a little cheaper here (not a whole lot) but this seems more configurable, and configurable from a phone app at that. However thing that bothers me is none of the percentages make sense, so it's tough to know if this thing is really doing what you want it to? Like stuff like 50F/40R--where did the other 10% of engine power go? lol.
You mentioned drag racing a lot, but didn't mention a proper road course or autocross at all. Are there recommended settings for that or is the stock system sufficient?
How does it behave when you release the throttle ? does it engage the rear axel or not ? for example you are at 100% throtle and release superfast throtle , does it engage the rear axel or not ? thanks
I don't know, my Golf R hooks up the rear tyres pretty well instantly, the moment the front wheels start to slip, they are on the job. How quick do you want it?
3:00 On my stock Golf R (300hp), I do get slight wheel spin whilst shifting 2nd to 3rd. Only happens with very energetic shifts, depends on the road type, and only lasts a fraction of a second. On 1st to 2nd it happens quite often.
If you want full-time AWD, get an Audi using the Torsen Quattro AWD. I don't know why everyone wants to buy a Haldex vehicle and tune it for full-time AWD. The system wasn't designed to be permanently engaged. Clutch-based AWD systems designed for full-time torque distribution like the Active AWD system used in most subaru's (40% of available engine torque is always sent to the rear axle by the multi-plate clutch in the transmission tailshaft) are made using special materials and design measures to cope with continuous generation of heat due to friction of the clutches rubbing together when turning corners.
Mechanical engineer here!. Fun, rare, fact. The 2014 Cadillac Xts-v has a haldex awd system. Can this controller be used as a universal haldex controller? Does the p/n, or rev affect this? Of course a different pigtail setup would have to be used. I’m cool with changing that. Just wondering if there’s a way. Thank you
Pump runs all the time when vehicle is on. However it is not always "engaged". Running at 100% will burn the pump out much quicker. Pumps usually last around 60-80 thousand kms depending on how lucky you are.
These aftermarket units might have their rightful applications, like: * The stock ECU was damaged and the OEM part costs more to replace than just buying this and using it in 'stock' mode * using them for a transplant (e.g. the 4motion parts) where you don't want to replace/recode ECUs refusing to work together (e.g. difference in ECU generations etc.). * Cars built for racing purposes could require a different 4WD strategy which would serve no useful purpose on a daily driver like engineers designed it to be driven.
Do you hear any noises on accelerating gradually as haldex system is engaging like an old air conditioner’s refrigerator system kicking in. It’s my first 4 Motion VAG car so I’m trying to figure out if it’s a normal operational noise on my MY20 Tiguan (Allspace in Australia). Thanks for your advice.
They would sell a heck of a lot more of these if the price was more reasonable, the problem is the Golf R Haldex is already very responsive. I have tested my car in low traction situations and it is very easy to spin the rear wheels right off the line, so how much better will this actually make it? My guess is the difference will be hardly noticeable, but if they can demonstrate a noticeable improvement... Heck even those haldex tunes have yet to offer any evidence of performance improvement, and all the feedback I have gotten says the difference is imperceptible. For $500-$600 I would get one just to play with it, but $1100 for something that won't make a noticeable performance difference and will most likely just reduce mileage and increase wear on the haldex system? For example there are VCDS settings that will increase haldex engagement, I (along with many others) have tried those settings and could not notice any perceivable performance improvement, however what was very apparent was the marked reduction in gas mileage (easily 2-3 mpg). So it definitely was increasing haldex engagement, it just didn't help performance. I had these settings on for several hundred miles and then turned it off when I could not see any benefit and the reduced mileage. This is a neat thing to play with, but will it transform how the AWD system operates? Sadly no, most likely all it will do is reduce mileage and reliability.
2018 Golf R here. So you say not to drive around with it on ALL the time. I drive in Race mode 95% of the time....is that shortening the life of my Haldex unit?
I'd be curious to know if this could be used in a 2016 Tiguan, which I understand uses the Haldex system, and also if it has been tried to enhance performance for offroading. Thanks!
I’m looking for a way to make my mk7 golf R truly 50/50 awd all the time by completely gutting the rear haldex system with an LSD and and carbon fiber rear axle and front axle... i am very annoyed at the system and may just turn the car into a project car which I gut the whole drivetrain ... turn the motor 90degrees to make it inline with a rear drive shaft... create a mounting bracket in CAD for a machine shop to mount a tremec 6 speed manual gear box with a rear axle going to a mechanical beefy rear lsd ... im already getting 400hp to the wheels. Sadly this project will take a few years depending on my freetime. But that 4motion system should never been put in a performance car to begain with... it should gave been a true quatro drivetrain.... 🤔.... which is also an option getting an old audi from a junkyard for parts and having the local machine shop chop and balance the drive shafts to fit my car’s length and mate the current mk7 golf R motor to it. Two years research this car only to be highly disappointed but I learned how to refine my research. Last time i try going down from 3 cars to 1 car.... i tried condensing power i got from my z51 c6 manual corvette, handling of my Mazdaspeed mx5 with the cruising comfort of my winter car which was an e39 bmw 540i m-sport manual which my 2 v8’s got comfortable cruising millage of 28-29 mpg in the vette and bmw since most of my driving is 30mins on the highway with no traffic. So I tried to get performance, comfort, and fuel economy all in one car that still had 4 doors... Never again, I will just get my performance car and a winter car, both with true manual stickshifts even if I have to modify clutch housings to mount to an electric motor
@@jaahasjaahas8729 from a performance perspective for going around turns, especially on loose surfaces like snow and gravel…it’s terrible bc it want the front wheels to slip 1st before transferring power to the back wheel which can cause the driver to understeer and slide straight off the tight turn unless you keep the gas pedal pegged which tends to help keep power going to the back wheels to get the car to rotate around… Sometimes having to completely lift off the gas and slam it right back down otherwise it tries to keep the power on the front wheels casing them to slip back into an understeer mode followed by power to the back wheel then just pushing the car in a straight line. (I also use studable snow tires in the winter… it also grounds out and tears the side skirt plastic under panels off in the winter when driving sideways through snow that is greater than 4 or 6” thick. But in the rain, it works very well with great torque vectoring. However, the driver always feel disconnected from the drivetrain so it’s scary to trust on turn at higher speeds until you get some quality drive time in it constantly pushes it’s limits in a safe environment free from hazards and people. The back isn’t meant to handle a 40% power all the time unless you want to damage it. Personally, I’m planning to rip out the drive train and turn the motor 90degrees and mate it to a six speed manual and axil to lsd in the rear end so it rwd bc I love the motor and it’s plenty of power for a fun little car… just needs some charisma and narrower tires for rwd fun flinging it sideways in the turns like an old 50-60’s race car on dirt making it a handling car that doesn’t just get wider tires thrown at it to handle better…plus narrower tires are cheap to replace and cut into snowy roads quite well… I also want to lift the whole car a couple inches so i’m not constantly breaking ice chunks that fall off the wheel wells of truckers on the freeway at 70mph with my oil pan which has also been upgraded from cheap plastic to a real metal pan. Definitely a few horror stories from other winter owners draining their car’s life blooded oil out after an ice chuck cracked their plastic oil pan. Last thing I want is to be stranded on the side of the road in a winter blizzard at night with a dead motor… meaning no heat… but i have my snowboard boots and winter equipment in my car for emergencies which can handle down to -10 degrees plus blankets and a short handled spade shovel to when you need to dig out a car that got high centeres
@@jaahasjaahas8729 but It’s a love hate relationship, I love predicting what my car computer is trying to do ad completely force it to do what I want well accepting that it’s really just a fwd car with some smart trickery which I’d rather just disable bc it makes the driver feel like a passenger instead of a driver.
If you wanted a quick drag car or freeway bombarder runner… It’s an awesome car for the price and easily upgradable with a rock solid motor but if you planned on putting $30,000 of work into it than just get a c7 z06 corvette which is just stupid fast for the price point
I saw you install this on a mk5 gti. So my question is does this fit on pre MQB, like PQ35 or better PQ25? I would like to run this on an Audi S1. (Was not sold in the US)
Hello, it's not dangerous to drive in 50/50 in the curves ? because there is not center differential and the font and the rear will be turn at different speed
Is there any way to just complete remove the rear haldex and make it truely locked up in the rear mechanically going to an LSD rear diff... removing the whole rear haldex system with a solid rear axle?
Is there a way to have the system engage in a way similar to the Golf R, since this car seems to drive with mostly the front wheels. I assume that the systems act differently. A good way to improve the awd without constantly having it on.
On the Skoda Superb 3T4 and 3T5 (Respectivley VW Passat ( with the 6 speed DSG gearbox )B6 and B6 Variant derivatives but with the front transmission of a golf) 3.6l VR6, the Gen 4 Haldex is always on: 86% on the front and 4% on the rear. The car has also torque vectoring so that it can send up to 85% of the total torque to any single wheel. How would this system work in combination with the torque vectoring (controlled by the ABS control unit) ?
Just purchased R36 so the haldex controller sounds like my thing. At 12.00 ish in the video ,would a section old seatbelt and buckle help pull them through the tight spaces?
I'm a potential new mk5 r32 owner. Is the 4 motion system biased to fwd 90% of the time? Is there a way to make it biased to rwd or is that engaging the 4wd system all the time? I'd like a 40 60 or 30 70 split to the rear if possible.
As far as I know 50/50 on haldex is like open diff maximum power on both axles but you are not able to give more to the rear bc then you would need a real middiff between te front and rear axle.
Don't Know if this has already been asked, but will this work with Volvo Haldex gen 3 through 5? Edit: It should work with gen 4 and 5 despite different makes. Great!
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Is there any solution for Gen 6 (S3 2022)?
I just installed this on my 8P Audi A3. It is fun to drive the car in FWD mode to feel torque steer. The track mode seems to hold the Haldex pump on longer than stock as it goes back to 100/0 slower. Driving around with the Haldex locked defaults to 65/35. The car feels like a true AWD car and going through a turn is quite different. I could be imagining it but when I parked the car I seemed to be smelling a mild clutch like burning smell coming from the rear of the car. I will use it sparingly as it must wear out the Haldex faster. I don't want to replace such an expensive part.
When you put the car into FWD mode and you are driving 30+ MPH and you give it the beans, your car will accelerate faster then if power was pushed to the rear.
I have a stage 2 A3 with the stock K03. I did two 0-60s with launch control active and I did 0-60 in 5.24 seconds. I turned on the Haldex Controller and set it to do 50/50 between 0-12 MPH and 50/50 13-23 MPH and 80/20 between 24-36 MPH and then 100/0 from 37 onward. I did 0-60 in 4.96 seconds. .25 seconds faster. That would maybe remove .3 to .5 seconds off your quarter mile time.
This is a fun upgrade. Auto cross, track events or rare launches are probably when I will use it. Driving around in FWD may help with MGP. That would take some detailed testing and long drives at HWY speeds.
Great info, thank you!
2 year update. My A3 now has a K04, full suspension upgrades, chassis bracing, front and rear LSDs and United Motorsport Haldex tune. Using all that with this controller allows me to have good performance at track days. I only run a few laps at at time and I watch the Haldex fluid temps in the app on my phone. I have a lot of fun with a full time AWD car on the track. I rarely use this in my off track driving as to keep the wear and tear down and I know I probably do enough wear and tear on track days.
I know a guy who had a MY 2019 RS3 and he ran this controller full time, all the time and he said he never had issues for a year. I am not sure if I believe him but he is a good guy and a solid mechanic.
@@kylemandt527 man i was thinking about front&rear lsd for my S3 8L Gen 1 haldex. Can you please explain to me how do they help? Im a hillclimb driver and im building S3 now. I need as much REAR as possible! Thanks a lot !
3.39 From what I read in forums, the pump is always on anyway whether you engage the AWD or not. To me, that highly does make sense because otherwise it would be way too slow for the system to wait for the pump to do its work, in order to activate the Haldex clutch.
Can't wait to see some testing on this.
Audiwan Kenobi me too!
I've got it and it is pretty sweet. You can tell a huge difference - whenever fooling around can select 50/50 lock then put it right back into passthrough mode for regular driving. It has some cool schedules you configure off of speed, boost, etc. that you can set up for your intended purpose. I think it's awesome!! The developer is very friendly and responsive too, as I'd reached out with questions.
It will burn your haldex
still working? or did it overuse the system?
Same question as riot. Is it still working? had any issues with your haldex system? i’d primarily wanna use this for snow driving.
Locking your haldex may prematurely damage it. Keep in mind it is not designed to be a permanent AWD, with this tool you'll shorten its life dramatically, and it is already not the strongest part of the modern VAG MQBs
Some people are heading for big bills to replace Haldex. The same people will no doubt also be complaining about VAG reliability. This is a solution looking for a problem.
I’d only lock it for launching the car from 0-100kmh
For traction ya know? beyond that the ratio will stay 60-40 or even just off. ( 60-40 was the ratio in the GMC SCYCLONE)
@@tony_5156 did the scyclone use a Haldex? I don’t believe so but I like the way you think....same thing I would do,0-60 50/50 or so depending on power level.do you know if it would be possible to split torque enough for some sideways hooning? I assume the system won’t allow a 90/10 or even 100% rear.thanks btw the typhoon was another GM gem.
@@kolourblind3124 nope no more than 50/50
With the proper high performance tires like Nitto NT01's your car is going to have plenty of grip and will hook up just fine from a dig or from a roll. Plus if you don't have a fully built motor, built transmission, and a bigger turbo then this really isn't going to make much of a difference if you aren't putting down 500+ wheel horsepower. Tires will make a world of difference and won't deplete the life of your all wheel drive/4 motion system. This haldex controller is a hard pass for me and a waste of money.
Once the rear seat bottom is out, the plastic LATCH covers can be easily removed. Without them in place, the seat bottom slides into position MUCH more easily. From there, the LATCH covers are easy to install. I'm not sure if it's faster or slower, but there's less struggling with getting the cushion aligned under the LATCH covers if they're not present while installing the seat cushion. Give it a try next time you remove the seat. Keep up the good work.
I installed this on my RS3 first time today and it took me half an hour for the whole process (easier than I thought). I made 2 straight cuts (20 mm long, 7 mm apart) on the side of the rubber grommet with scissors, so the harness can go through. After the grommet was put back, I sealed the hole with high quality and waterproof electrical duct tape. I placed the controller at the back in the trunk on the existing foam. I used a Velcro (hook and loop fastener) to hold the controller securely in place. The Velcro method will allow me to temporarily remove the controller from the car as I wish. Now, the fun part is to play with the settings and to set them correctly is the hardest part.
How is testing going? Notice positive differences?
@@andremille
Big difference when you set it up correctly for the sweet spot, I feel like I have an extra 50HP. The car launches so much harder and faster when you set 80:20 or 70:30 torque split between 0 and 40km/h, then 50:50 torque split from there on. This is to get the heavier front end going first, then quickly push hard with 50:50. You can view all these happening on the phone.
@@khvidtube1617 If you set it up to 50:50 can you drift the car (as the back is lighter han front)?
@@HanSolo__
Yes, you can easily do a power oversteer with 50:50 even if it is not your intention and even if you have cup 2 tyres. So I would not recommend 50:50 if you are not good at controlling oversteer, it is very dangerous.
@@khvidtube1617 Cool. I do own a 230HP BMW E61 which goes into some crazy areas with the ESP turned off. ;)
Shame the wiring harness doesn’t come with a preinstalled grommet, that would have made for a perfect clean quick and simple installation with no worries about sealing that aperture from the elements.
But that wouldn't be as universally as this solution is at the moment. Not every car he mentioned with a Haldex needs the same grommet.
blocki So you make 7 different ones big deal
@@blockbertus He said the cables are vehicle specific... that being the case, it wouldnt be difficult to know what type is required?
@@ThatRoddy I must have missed that note. If that's the case, you are right. Sorry!
Idek what a grommet is
Can someone explain please, thanks yall.
Is there any comparison test between the normal haldex and the haldex controller on rollers in order to evaluate its benefits?
If not why don't you perform a test?
Keep up the good work!!!!
Great video! Mad informative.. not many places you could get this info in such a straight forward manner
3:00 you will spin the whole system even if the clutch is not engaged, because the wheels are conected and because they will spin up, the whole 4wd system behind the haldex will also
so there will be no difference between haldex on or off
HPA Competition Haldex Controller allows for engagment during braking... Really changes the feel of hard braking.
in the app settings you can choose if you want the haldex disengage or not by braking or also by e-braking
what about just deleting the haldex clutches for a cnc machined spacer to replace the clutches so its always true full time awd?
Great for a rally car, but because the clutches also act as a "center differential", you will bind up your drive-train on a dry road. Just like a 4x4 truck.
Yep, that's impossible. You would need a center diff between the front and rear axle. A torsen diff for example, which would make it a REAL quattro. I dont agree that audi puts the quattro badge on a haldex car, it's just marketing for people who dont know what they're driving
@@wesley8096 Its not really "real" haldex either. The quattro ultra can in dynamic operation send 100% torque to the rear continuously and its always active, compared to haldex which is reactive. So if you use OBDeleven or VCDS you can clearly see the clutch closed almost constantly in dynamic.
@@wesley8096 what makes it a "real quattro"?
ruclips.net/video/J2ejrS06f4E/видео.html (the A3 has haldex and the Passat has torsen)
at least i would expect it to get off the rollers faster than the "worse" haldex counterpart if it was the one and only "real quattro".
@@BigToro Wow dude. Big eye opener for me. Thanks for sharing.
Depending on the generation on haldex the pump is always running either way if the haldex is active or not. So if it's on 24/7 the pump don't work more as it does stock
Are you saying that there's no difference in pump load or duty cycle with the haldex ratio set to 50:50 permanently vs selective (speed based, etc)?
@1koenner yes, correct. The pump is always working, specially on Gen1 and Gen5. Haldex function is controlled with valves
Honestly the TT RS deserves full quatro.
Love that you're doing a review of this. I'm gonna buy it!
Man... that’s pretty sweet! Not sure I could justify twice the price of the United Motorsport Haldex tune though.
This is pretty slick
Honestly want to spend the 1k just to see what kind of gas mileage I get with it in true FWD mode. I expected to get 30+ easily when I bought my R but sadly can't get much better than 25mpg avg. My APR stg 2 2016 GLI regularly got 35+ mpg in the summer....guess that's why I assumed they would be similar but boy was I wrong lol
Haldex consumes about 23-30% of your total output. Running FWD at all times will benefit your gas mileage but will not be the same as the regular FWD cars due to all the extra weight. You're probably better off just unplugging the haldex cable if you really want FWD only (it's free).
@@GForceConnections yeah I wouldn't doubt that one bit. Still have a transfer case deal (I know it's not what it's called but does basically same shit) spinning and the driveshaft as well.
Could also use that USP I think it is that makes that burnout switch with the little remote. You can switch it to fwd only but you get lights on the dash when it's activated. I'm guessing it electronically disconnects the haldex temporarily so it fails to work just have to stare at a bunch of error lights on the dash 🤣🤣 this box would atleast keep the dash from looking like a xmas tree
Same here. Came from a MK5 GLI getting sometimes 38mpg. Hoped I would get at least 31mpg with this Haldex but the best I've seen is roughly 28mpg at 45mph with the a/c off.
Keep in mind there is always some drag from the rear diff and other bearings related to rear drive that will always be dragging no matter if you are in fwd or awd
@@ReubenHorner or..if you want to disengage the rear diff also, you could search for rear free wheel hubs, if any are available for your car..
Can you please blow up an AISIN 6 speed auto with a big turbo and some flow mods? I wanna see how much power the 09G can handle.
Id really like to see some testing by you guys on this controller. I bet it would get a lot of interest and views.
You guys need to do some videos on Audi SQ5!!! We would really appreciate it!!!
@1:34 "Haldex can't engage when you're on the brakes..." Wait what? So on road courses, rallies, and hill climbs where it's VERY common to use the brakes in conjunction with the throttle to control the balance/disposition of the car Haldex does not allow drive to the rear wheels? That's a true shame, didn't know that.
More so on launch control the system will never have the pump running before the launch happens, so there will still be signal delay like stock.
I am pretty sure I have seen a system from Ecumaster for the Mk4 R32 that will lock the haldex under braking too
HPA Motorsport do Haldex box which makes Haldex engage while braking. They just don't have this for Haldex V yet. I hope it changes soon as it would be preferred solution for ultimate sports driving.
This is one of the reasons why people prefer torsen, because torsen is a mechanical AWD, unlike haldex, so it wont disengage when you brake, and has more predictible handling. Downside is that its always active, so you gonna have your fuel economy cut, while haldex disengages when not needed giving you FWD economy.
The Haldex Controller has a option to ignore the brake signal.
Does this work for the Gen 3 Haldex system on Volvo as well?
This is cool, but for $1049? I'll save my pesos for now.
Pre coronavirus that would cost 199.99$, I don't see what the fuss of 850$ extra is all about. See it in this way, there's boxes that "trick" your ecu to send more fuel to your injectors. This seems to do the same thing to the haldex pump. Kinda greedy imo.
@@ViceVersace haldex has always cost around 1k idk what you are talking about 199 for a haldex
@@LeGrimsta he’s talking about the module not the whole haldex system
A device that costs what a ecu/tcu costs? Sweet. I think there's an option for half the cost out there. Love you DAP, but I'm not rich enough for this one.
haldex is another upgrade this is costly but will help make the car fun like the ecu and tcu you refer to. the haldex currently offered costs about this much. the difference here is that you have a unit to move from car to car. the other version there is no hardware and the creator over there keeps all the extra funds you pay with. it seems the other guy needs to lower the price of his downloadable tune.
So this company is named Deutsche Auto Parts, DAP because they sell parts for German cars,
if they'd sell parts for French cars their name would be...
...different to Deutsche Auto Parts.
Française Voiture Parts, FVP.
@@LGaragem 😂😂😂
@@LGaragem More like FAP
best comment ever :D :D:D
@@@ayon1.1 thanks mate, stay safe
I'm curious to see if anyone who dose highway or daily commute has gotten better mpgs with it in the off position. (Fwd only). I like this over a tune or other controller because of the ease of adjustability.
So if I remember correctly, the haldex puts itself in 52/48 when you turn off your ESC... so if you want to do your 1/4 mile you can just do that and punch it again at 70 km/h or so and you will save yourself $1k. On the track you do want as much HP to the back as possible to avoid the terrible understeering the car has so again, you leave it at 52/48 (what you really want is 20/80 but by design your haldex cannot do that). Overall this is just a front wheel drive and it behaves as such. Source: I own an S3.
Get a wavetrac I have a S3 as well
There is no thing as 50:50 lockup. 50:50 is open diff.
Lockup is 0:100 to 100:0 instant variability only determined by traction.
Exactly, that's very common mistake caused by lack of understanding what is the difference between wheelspin and torque.
What would be the best set up to just make the day to day more engaging when sport driving on backroads??
60/40?🤷♂️
The best setup is a bmw 👌
@@GiovanniGamer345 LoL, until it rains or snows then you will need a second car just to go get toile paper. My R just ran neck and neck (with just a piggy back power module) with a new M2 comp, and the M4 on the highway...last time I checked those where another 45k$ more...sorry not in my budget.
And the only BMW I’d ever drive would be an E46 M and good luck there. They are either 40k$ for 15 year old car or your buying a ragged out POS. Not to mention my lap times at Vegas Speedway are still just as fast as if not faster than heavily modded E46 M’s. That’s going to depend a lot if the driver is any good. You can keep your BMW Gio, I’ll see ya in my rear view...
@@hunterlane3323 you indeed have a great car I'm not saying that, changing the turbos in this golf makes it faster than m5s and rs6s its a Hella of a car, but you completely missed the point on you question the engagement I really think you would have lots more fun with a rwd vehicle
@@hunterlane3323 even going slower, and dude it's cars everything you do with them is fun
Why doesn't it simply include a new grommet on the new wire connecting to the Haldex, especially for $1,000? Especially so you don't have to de-pin the connecters, potentially damaging them, to relocate a $2 grommet.
"well now you can put the power in your hands...well, the power in my hands"
/hits the like button
Isn't this like Haldex Blue? From what I remember, those put extra wear on the transmission and you need to service it sooner.
"Haldex Blue" you're referring to is basically a Haldex controller with a different map/tune on it. The colour is sort of irrelevant as it's just a cover. But the Haldex controllers you see like those (the selectable-mode and the competition ones) those are actually made by Haldex themselves, they're just sold by various tuner-type companies (HPA, Neuspeed, etc.). So there you're actually changing it to a controller designed by the company that made the coupling to begin with.
Never really heard about "extra wear on the transmission" from using one, but anything is possible. This doesn't change anything about the transmission, just the way the centre coupling apportions power to the rear-end.
These Van Der Veer boxes at DAP though, they are piggybacks it looks like, rather than replacement controllers. They are basically causing the stock Haldex unit w/stock controller to behave differently. It's a different way of getting to the same thing I guess. Cost is a little cheaper here (not a whole lot) but this seems more configurable, and configurable from a phone app at that. However thing that bothers me is none of the percentages make sense, so it's tough to know if this thing is really doing what you want it to? Like stuff like 50F/40R--where did the other 10% of engine power go? lol.
You mentioned drag racing a lot, but didn't mention a proper road course or autocross at all. Are there recommended settings for that or is the stock system sufficient?
How does it differ from the OBD11 ‘Increased traction’ Haldex setting?
1:40 I can see you checking that beautiful blue convertible.
Haldex 3. Generation Volvo’s is appropriate?
How does it behave when you release the throttle ? does it engage the rear axel or not ? for example you are at 100% throtle and release superfast throtle , does it engage the rear axel or not ? thanks
Too rich for my blood! But fun to watch you guys play with the new toys.
I don't know, my Golf R hooks up the rear tyres pretty well instantly, the moment the front wheels start to slip, they are on the job. How quick do you want it?
Yeah I agree - I dont think they'll make it any safer than it currently is.
Can you send power only to rear ?
To my knowledge only on certain newer models
3:00
On my stock Golf R (300hp), I do get slight wheel spin whilst shifting 2nd to 3rd. Only happens with very energetic shifts, depends on the road type, and only lasts a fraction of a second.
On 1st to 2nd it happens quite often.
Auto or manual....
The bwow won my subscription
I would have had it on all the time... good lookin out..
If you want full-time AWD, get an Audi using the Torsen Quattro AWD. I don't know why everyone wants to buy a Haldex vehicle and tune it for full-time AWD. The system wasn't designed to be permanently engaged. Clutch-based AWD systems designed for full-time torque distribution like the Active AWD system used in most subaru's (40% of available engine torque is always sent to the rear axle by the multi-plate clutch in the transmission tailshaft) are made using special materials and design measures to cope with continuous generation of heat due to friction of the clutches rubbing together when turning corners.
So the UM haldex tune kicks on under hard breaking for stability when deceleration
So is this not happens with this controller....
could you make it rwd like this too?
No, haldex only allows for up to 50% to the rear tires.
no this is a front bias system
Ahh darn, would be fun tho!
It’s possible we might find that out pretty soon ; )
@@Deutscheautoparts Ooooh that sounds very good! im excited!!!
Another first for the haldex was SAAB
Mechanical engineer here!. Fun, rare, fact. The 2014 Cadillac Xts-v has a haldex awd system. Can this controller be used as a universal haldex controller? Does the p/n, or rev affect this? Of course a different pigtail setup would have to be used. I’m cool with changing that. Just wondering if there’s a way. Thank you
Does it damage the pump/unit by working all the time? I am not sure that it is designed for that.
Pump runs all the time when vehicle is on. However it is not always "engaged". Running at 100% will burn the pump out much quicker. Pumps usually last around 60-80 thousand kms depending on how lucky you are.
@@GForceConnections i guess i have original pump on my b6 and it has 330 thousand kms :D
0:20 don’t forget it’s also in the Volvo’s
I'll leave the calibration of the 4motion to the paid german engineers.
These aftermarket units might have their rightful applications, like:
* The stock ECU was damaged and the OEM part costs more to replace than just buying this and using it in 'stock' mode
* using them for a transplant (e.g. the 4motion parts) where you don't want to replace/recode ECUs refusing to work together (e.g. difference in ECU generations etc.).
* Cars built for racing purposes could require a different 4WD strategy which would serve no useful purpose on a daily driver like engineers designed it to be driven.
100% unless you can afford non-warranty replacement costs for pre maturely worn Haldex.
Do you hear any noises on accelerating gradually as haldex system is engaging like an old air conditioner’s refrigerator system kicking in. It’s my first 4 Motion VAG car so I’m trying to figure out if it’s a normal operational noise on my MY20 Tiguan (Allspace in Australia). Thanks for your advice.
They would sell a heck of a lot more of these if the price was more reasonable, the problem is the Golf R Haldex is already very responsive. I have tested my car in low traction situations and it is very easy to spin the rear wheels right off the line, so how much better will this actually make it? My guess is the difference will be hardly noticeable, but if they can demonstrate a noticeable improvement...
Heck even those haldex tunes have yet to offer any evidence of performance improvement, and all the feedback I have gotten says the difference is imperceptible. For $500-$600 I would get one just to play with it, but $1100 for something that won't make a noticeable performance difference and will most likely just reduce mileage and increase wear on the haldex system?
For example there are VCDS settings that will increase haldex engagement, I (along with many others) have tried those settings and could not notice any perceivable performance improvement, however what was very apparent was the marked reduction in gas mileage (easily 2-3 mpg). So it definitely was increasing haldex engagement, it just didn't help performance. I had these settings on for several hundred miles and then turned it off when I could not see any benefit and the reduced mileage.
This is a neat thing to play with, but will it transform how the AWD system operates? Sadly no, most likely all it will do is reduce mileage and reliability.
Nice! I've been looking at MTM's controller, but it doesn't have the same adjustability.
2018 Golf R here. So you say not to drive around with it on ALL the time. I drive in Race mode 95% of the time....is that shortening the life of my Haldex unit?
Is there a version for the non MQB mk2 TT
having a nightmare connecting this to blue tooth with my iphone, any suggestions.
Haldex Without Centar Diferential (Only Multiplate Clutch) 50/50 Setup Would Not Cause Driveline Binding?
holy shit that alltrack moves!
Is there any way of getting rid of the Haldex completely & replacing it with a full time mechanical diff?
Will this work on Volvo vehicles or is this just for VAG
Can you make a video comparing with and without haldex controller at 1/4 to probe it?
Please tell me Paul I can get this for my 19 Tiguan....😁😁😁
www.shopdap.com/haldex-controller-mk7-mqb-gen5.html#additional
GForceConnections oh yessss thanks bro!!!!!!
I'd be curious to know if this could be used in a 2016 Tiguan, which I understand uses the Haldex system, and also if it has been tried to enhance performance for offroading. Thanks!
Estas sempre a inventar!
Uma parafernália
I’m looking for a way to make my mk7 golf R truly 50/50 awd all the time by completely gutting the rear haldex system with an LSD and and carbon fiber rear axle and front axle... i am very annoyed at the system and may just turn the car into a project car which I gut the whole drivetrain ... turn the motor 90degrees to make it inline with a rear drive shaft... create a mounting bracket in CAD for a machine shop to mount a tremec 6 speed manual gear box with a rear axle going to a mechanical beefy rear lsd ... im already getting 400hp to the wheels.
Sadly this project will take a few years depending on my freetime.
But that 4motion system should never been put in a performance car to begain with... it should gave been a true quatro drivetrain.... 🤔.... which is also an option getting an old audi from a junkyard for parts and having the local machine shop chop and balance the drive shafts to fit my car’s length and mate the current mk7 golf R motor to it.
Two years research this car only to be highly disappointed but I learned how to refine my research.
Last time i try going down from 3 cars to 1 car.... i tried condensing power i got from my z51 c6 manual corvette, handling of my Mazdaspeed mx5 with the cruising comfort of my winter car which was an e39 bmw 540i m-sport manual which my 2 v8’s got comfortable cruising millage of 28-29 mpg in the vette and bmw since most of my driving is 30mins on the highway with no traffic.
So I tried to get performance, comfort, and fuel economy all in one car that still had 4 doors...
Never again, I will just get my performance car and a winter car, both with true manual stickshifts even if I have to modify clutch housings to mount to an electric motor
I would just sell the golf R and buy an Audi with torsen awd or a Subaru. But is the haldex really that bad?
@@jaahasjaahas8729 from a performance perspective for going around turns, especially on loose surfaces like snow and gravel…it’s terrible bc it want the front wheels to slip 1st before transferring power to the back wheel which can cause the driver to understeer and slide straight off the tight turn unless you keep the gas pedal pegged which tends to help keep power going to the back wheels to get the car to rotate around… Sometimes having to completely lift off the gas and slam it right back down otherwise it tries to keep the power on the front wheels casing them to slip back into an understeer mode followed by power to the back wheel then just pushing the car in a straight line. (I also use studable snow tires in the winter… it also grounds out and tears the side skirt plastic under panels off in the winter when driving sideways through snow that is greater than 4 or 6” thick.
But in the rain, it works very well with great torque vectoring.
However, the driver always feel disconnected from the drivetrain so it’s scary to trust on turn at higher speeds until you get some quality drive time in it constantly pushes it’s limits in a safe environment free from hazards and people.
The back isn’t meant to handle a 40% power all the time unless you want to damage it.
Personally, I’m planning to rip out the drive train and turn the motor 90degrees and mate it to a six speed manual and axil to lsd in the rear end so it rwd bc I love the motor and it’s plenty of power for a fun little car… just needs some charisma and narrower tires for rwd fun flinging it sideways in the turns like an old 50-60’s race car on dirt making it a handling car that doesn’t just get wider tires thrown at it to handle better…plus narrower tires are cheap to replace and cut into snowy roads quite well… I also want to lift the whole car a couple inches so i’m not constantly breaking ice chunks that fall off the wheel wells of truckers on the freeway at 70mph with my oil pan which has also been upgraded from cheap plastic to a real metal pan. Definitely a few horror stories from other winter owners draining their car’s life blooded oil out after an ice chuck cracked their plastic oil pan. Last thing I want is to be stranded on the side of the road in a winter blizzard at night with a dead motor… meaning no heat… but i have my snowboard boots and winter equipment in my car for emergencies which can handle down to -10 degrees plus blankets and a short handled spade shovel to when you need to dig out a car that got high centeres
@@jaahasjaahas8729 but It’s a love hate relationship, I love predicting what my car computer is trying to do ad completely force it to do what I want well accepting that it’s really just a fwd car with some smart trickery which I’d rather just disable bc it makes the driver feel like a passenger instead of a driver.
If you wanted a quick drag car or freeway bombarder runner… It’s an awesome car for the price and easily upgradable with a rock solid motor but if you planned on putting $30,000 of work into it than just get a c7 z06 corvette which is just stupid fast for the price point
@@jaahasjaahas8729 i would but I need a winter car again which I don’t want to buy bc I’d get another corvette
I saw you install this on a mk5 gti. So my question is does this fit on pre MQB, like PQ35 or better PQ25? I would like to run this on an Audi S1. (Was not sold in the US)
Why its turn to 100/0 while braking? Is it for avoiding braking front wheels with rear brakes over clutch while rear tyres slip?
6:15 😎 Ha ha ha! Yeah, it’s a mystery why stuff gets dirty!
A great big, running, mystery 👍.
Is there a part to remove the haldex clutch pack and make it a permanent AWD ?
Haldex packs act like a center diff; so, no.
If you want full time AWD buy a WRX. This mod is extremely risky on the haldex pump. Imo not worth the risk.
The pump is ON all the time... sooo I ain't sure why this mod would shorten the life of the pump??
how about volvos? can it run with volvo haldex system? gen 2?
Getting close, Gen3 almost Gen2 is next.
Jeroen vd Veer Is volvo xc70 2006 gen 3 compatible? THANKS
Does this work with abs/wheel speed sensors disconnected?
Do you have to use a controller to use the mechanical switch or is there a way to set it up to run fwd and awd on the switch?
Hello! I want to do this for my 99 mod S3 8L. Is it the same installation?
Does the Gen 1 version for the MK4 R32 work on an MK4 Tdi 4Motion?
Does this work for Volvos?
Hello, it's not dangerous to drive in 50/50 in the curves ? because there is not center differential and the font and the rear will be turn at different speed
Is there any way to just complete remove the rear haldex and make it truely locked up in the rear mechanically going to an LSD rear diff... removing the whole rear haldex system with a solid rear axle?
Does it work for suzuki sx4?
Is there a way to have the system engage in a way similar to the Golf R, since this car seems to drive with mostly the front wheels. I assume that the systems act differently. A good way to improve the awd without constantly having it on.
On the Skoda Superb 3T4 and 3T5 (Respectivley VW Passat ( with the 6 speed DSG gearbox )B6 and B6 Variant derivatives but with the front transmission of a golf) 3.6l VR6, the Gen 4 Haldex is always on: 86% on the front and 4% on the rear. The car has also torque vectoring so that it can send up to 85% of the total torque to any single wheel. How would this system work in combination with the torque vectoring (controlled by the ABS control unit) ?
Will this allow me to drift a Audi s3
So if it’s not usable 24/7 then why should I get it and why should I get the haldex system at all.?
Are there any concerns running 100/0 continuosly?
Would this product work for other manufacturers with the haldex AWD systems. Specifically 04-07 Volvo V70/S60R
Getting close, Gen3 S60R almost working.
Tiguan R-Line 2023, u.s.... why is this NOT available?
A previous video said haldex is different from quattro, and this video says the only difference is when it's active ?
This sounds real cool but holy crap the price !
Will this controller work on a vehicle that didn't come factory equipped with AWD(aka a conversion)?
For me it is not all about acceleration, i’d like to turn it on for snow driving especially engine braking on descents. Could this be achieved?
Brian Steele if you aren’t braking it should work fine
Possible as well, brake can be ignored.
Just purchased R36 so the haldex controller sounds like my thing. At 12.00 ish in the video ,would a section old seatbelt and buckle help pull them through the tight spaces?
Would this work for Saabs awd system "Haldex Generation 4"
No Audi s1 support?
Audi S1 is supported as well Haldex Gen5 0AY
Any chance to get one working for a Gen3 unit?
J Irvine I can't wait for the answer to this question too
I'm a potential new mk5 r32 owner. Is the 4 motion system biased to fwd 90% of the time? Is there a way to make it biased to rwd or is that engaging the 4wd system all the time? I'd like a 40 60 or 30 70 split to the rear if possible.
As far as I know 50/50 on haldex is like open diff maximum power on both axles but you are not able to give more to the rear bc then you would need a real middiff between te front and rear axle.
Don't Know if this has already been asked, but will this work with Volvo Haldex gen 3 through 5?
Edit: It should work with gen 4 and 5 despite different makes. Great!
Will it work on volvo's haldex modules?