Just a little side note from someone who has learned this lesson the hard way before: Inside that wheel there are most likely two sets of bearings, one at each end. Therefore when you tighten the nut you are putting quite possibly hundreds of pounds of sideways pressure on the bearings, and those type of bearings are not made to withstand that much lateral pressure. The bearings will quickly get really sloppy from all that pressure and then that sloppiness will let the grease leak out and let sand get into the bearings. Instead, you should use a lock nut on both sides of the wheel, and only tighten until there is no slop on the rod. Or even better, you could take out one of the bearings from the wheel, slide a pvc or metal pipe spacer on the rod which you will cut to the exact size needed, and then re-install the bearings onto the wheel. That way when you tighten down the nuts on the threaded rod, you will be putting that lateral pressure onto that spacer, not the bearings. Cool ideas though!
@@tonka5 The bearings on the wheels, the round things in the center of the wheel, which allow the wheels to turn but not the rod. Aren't meant to take forces from the sides only from the outside rim. If they do for any significant amount of time they will take damage and then the rod will start turning, breaking/destroying anything connected to it.
I like to use A washer as a spacer between a nut and the wheel. It gives you a smoother transition so you don’t have a hex of the nut digging into the side of the wheel hub.
You don't have to use threaded rod. I just used a piece of 5/8" steel ( or maybe aluminum) and used stop collars to hold everything in place. I was thinking it would be easier to do that than have to worry about cutting the threaded rod and deal with burring or the potential of damaged threads. Plus it is very easy to take apart with the stop collars.
Where did you get the connectors for the Kayak cart that you attached to the axel? Great video! Would love to see a complete parts list and where you got them in the description so that I could purchase through your link and support your channel.
Hi there, thanks for the comment and question. Those connectors are from Maker Pipe. You can see a full list of materials and step by step instructions here. www.instructables.com/No-Weld-Bike-Trailer-for-Kayaks-More/
You can find the connectors on our website, makerpipe.com. We are no longer offering black Connectors though. The silver ones accept spray paint really well if you decide to go that route. Let me know if you have any questions.
I was into this but then had the inside nut start tightening down on the bearings. The wheels would not work well. Someone else said use stop nuts on both sides of the bearings, not just the outside like the video says. Are there proven better results with any other ways? thanks
Thanks for the comment. Builders have had success with using washers in combination with stop nuts to protect the bearings and allow them to spin more freely.
Seems like tightening the wheel bearings with nuts would put a lot of stress on the bearings. They are sized for 5/8" smooth rod and, although I cannot verify it, the actual OD of threaded rod is probably slightly smaller than a smooth rod, hence the wheel wobble before tightening the nuts. I'd go with a smooth rod and axle cap nuts or drill holes in the ends for a cotter pin with a washer on each side of the wheel. Since the shims are tight around the axle, it will stay stationary in the conduit.
Hi Alan, thanks for the comment. Your best bet would be using 1" EMT Conduit and shimming the difference between the axle and inside of the conduit. Then you could build off of the pipe with our 1" EMT Connectors.
The issue I ran into when using small wheels(as shown here), is that while they may be easier when starting to ride, it's harder to keep them going ...thus it's fatigues the cyclist quicker. However while using larger wheels, they may prove a little harder in your initial launch, it's once you get going the cyclist will be less fatigued, especially when going longer distances.
Thanks for the comment Justin. We see people use these smaller wheels for carts and things like that. You're right in the fact that bigger wheels (maybe bicycle wheels?) would be much better for a bike cart or something traveling farther than say a kayak cart.
It's been a little while since I picked them up, but I am pretty sure these are the ones I went with. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/pneumatic-wheel-410-350-4
I'm making a cart that uses a 1/2 inch axle (determined by the wheel) and attempting to adapt the 1/2 inch axle to 1/2 inch pipe.. Why is this so hard?
Hi there, thanks for the comment. Most likely you're running into an issue with the outer diameters. 1/2" EMT Conduit isn't actually .50 in diameter. It is .706.
crap...and he just poop all over at the end of the video...one very important part in how to assemble -components and the works were just omitted and replaced by speedy gonzalez 🙄🤮🥺
This video was meant to explain the axle, not the kayak cart. If you want to learn how to make the kayak cart check out this video -> ruclips.net/video/sb4w-ve3LeU/видео.html
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Just a little side note from someone who has learned this lesson the hard way before: Inside that wheel there are most likely two sets of bearings, one at each end. Therefore when you tighten the nut you are putting quite possibly hundreds of pounds of sideways pressure on the bearings, and those type of bearings are not made to withstand that much lateral pressure. The bearings will quickly get really sloppy from all that pressure and then that sloppiness will let the grease leak out and let sand get into the bearings. Instead, you should use a lock nut on both sides of the wheel, and only tighten until there is no slop on the rod. Or even better, you could take out one of the bearings from the wheel, slide a pvc or metal pipe spacer on the rod which you will cut to the exact size needed, and then re-install the bearings onto the wheel. That way when you tighten down the nuts on the threaded rod, you will be putting that lateral pressure onto that spacer, not the bearings. Cool ideas though!
Thanks for the feedback and suggestion. Great advice!
huh?
@@tonka5 The bearings on the wheels, the round things in the center of the wheel, which allow the wheels to turn but not the rod. Aren't meant to take forces from the sides only from the outside rim. If they do for any significant amount of time they will take damage and then the rod will start turning, breaking/destroying anything connected to it.
I like to use A washer as a spacer between a nut and the wheel. It gives you a smoother transition so you don’t have a hex of the nut digging into the side of the wheel hub.
I wish Maker would make a bushing insert similar to the threaded insert, but specifically for a 5/8" axle.
That makes a lot of sense for us to add, Keith. Thanks for the suggestion.
You don't have to use threaded rod. I just used a piece of 5/8" steel ( or maybe aluminum) and used stop collars to hold everything in place. I was thinking it would be easier to do that than have to worry about cutting the threaded rod and deal with burring or the potential of damaged threads. Plus it is very easy to take apart with the stop collars.
nice work. question: can the wheel roll independently of each other?
Yes, as long as they aren't tightened too much. Use a lock nut/nylok nut or thread lock.
Where did you get the connectors for the Kayak cart that you attached to the axel? Great video! Would love to see a complete parts list and where you got them in the description so that I could purchase through your link and support your channel.
Hi there, thanks for the comment and question. Those connectors are from Maker Pipe. You can see a full list of materials and step by step instructions here. www.instructables.com/No-Weld-Bike-Trailer-for-Kayaks-More/
Great video - thanks!
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it.
Where to buy that black conduit connector?
You can find the connectors on our website, makerpipe.com. We are no longer offering black Connectors though. The silver ones accept spray paint really well if you decide to go that route. Let me know if you have any questions.
I was into this but then had the inside nut start tightening down on the bearings. The wheels would not work well. Someone else said use stop nuts on both sides of the bearings, not just the outside like the video says. Are there proven better results with any other ways? thanks
Thanks for the comment. Builders have had success with using washers in combination with stop nuts to protect the bearings and allow them to spin more freely.
Seems like tightening the wheel bearings with nuts would put a lot of stress on the bearings. They are sized for 5/8" smooth rod and, although I cannot verify it, the actual OD of threaded rod is probably slightly smaller than a smooth rod, hence the wheel wobble before tightening the nuts. I'd go with a smooth rod and axle cap nuts or drill holes in the ends for a cotter pin with a washer on each side of the wheel. Since the shims are tight around the axle, it will stay stationary in the conduit.
Good suggestion. Thanks CW!
Wouldn't 1/2 conduit work for the axle? I think that has a 5/8 outside diameter. Then just use a cotter pin.
You could wrap teflon tape around the threaded rod to shim it in the bearings. I’ve done this with 5/16th inch bolts and skate bearings.
Great video. Do you have a link for the kayak cart? Thanks.
connect.makerpipe.com/post/nancy-shared-her-heavy-duty-kayak-cart-she-used-some-really-cool-techniques--5fe9e579f7990cebdb0be4b9
There you go! Let us know if you need any assistance with your project 👌
@@MakerPipe Thank you.
How could I do this with wheels that have a 1" axle diameter?
Hi Alan, thanks for the comment. Your best bet would be using 1" EMT Conduit and shimming the difference between the axle and inside of the conduit. Then you could build off of the pipe with our 1" EMT Connectors.
The issue I ran into when using small wheels(as shown here), is that while they may be easier when starting to ride, it's harder to keep them going ...thus it's fatigues the cyclist quicker. However while using larger wheels, they may prove a little harder in your initial launch, it's once you get going the cyclist will be less fatigued, especially when going longer distances.
Thanks for the comment Justin. We see people use these smaller wheels for carts and things like that. You're right in the fact that bigger wheels (maybe bicycle wheels?) would be much better for a bike cart or something traveling farther than say a kayak cart.
Where do you get all the connectors?
We manufacture the connectors in Upstate South Carolina. You can purchase them on our website, makerpipe.com.
Got a link to those wheels?
It's been a little while since I picked them up, but I am pretty sure these are the ones I went with.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/pneumatic-wheel-410-350-4
I'm making a cart that uses a 1/2 inch axle (determined by the wheel) and attempting to adapt the 1/2 inch axle to 1/2 inch pipe.. Why is this so hard?
Hi there, thanks for the comment. Most likely you're running into an issue with the outer diameters. 1/2" EMT Conduit isn't actually .50 in diameter. It is .706.
9if you keep using your finger to check for burrs in cut conduit, sooner or later you will find one that cuts your finger wide open
You're right! I need to be more careful. Thanks for the comment!
nice idea but i HATE the annoying repetitive music in the background while u talk!
Thanks for the feedback
crap...and he just poop all over at the end of the video...one very important part in how to assemble -components and the works were just omitted and replaced by speedy gonzalez 🙄🤮🥺
This video was meant to explain the axle, not the kayak cart. If you want to learn how to make the kayak cart check out this video -> ruclips.net/video/sb4w-ve3LeU/видео.html