Monarch 612 Lathe Restoration: Rebuilding the Compound
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- Опубликовано: 11 янв 2024
- Monarch 612 Lathe Restoration: Rebuilding the Compound
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Thanks for the hang out time
Why not use the longer compound like you wanted too. Just bore out the worn threads in the nut and make a new threaded insert that can be locked in place with some set screws and Loctite 640. Or just machine it off completely and make a nut just like the one on the shorter compound or use that nut. Most of those nuts are commonly made of bronze anyway.
Boring out the nut and casting white metal around the screw works pretty well. Silicone spray on the screw as a release agent.
I was going to suggest the same - machine off the boss and make a bronze nut. Of course that assumes the lead screw is in decent shape. Maybe then the longer compound could be matched to the new rise block. We love to make work for Keith 🙂 But seriously, as I recall Keith is under some time pressure on this job so I understand why he chose the path that appeared most expedient at the time.
All in all I concur with everyone that the block could be mailed out and installed a new one 8:27
No because he is very busy and is only doing this job to be able to use the lathe on another job
To make a new nut he would need a special long shank left hand tap
There is no time for all that planning, must hurry to get the job done
😮
Maybe a future episode?
Thanks for making this ONE video
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Keith!
Getting close now Keith. Look forward to you making some first cuts on this machine 👍 Thank you!
It's definitely looking like a functional lathe, almost.
It's such a pleasure watching your videos. My Dad was a machinist as well, I sat on his stool and watched him do similar projects. Great memories! Thank you! ❤
Lil' bit late but I wish Happy New Year to you and your family . Greetings from Germany.
Brought back memories of scraping many compound slides while rebuilding Warner & Swasey turret lathes. Dovetails require special skill and patience to scrape. We used to grind the ends of our carbide cutters to reach the inside corner of the dovetails, It had to slide evenly and smoothly throughout the full range of travel with the gibs adjusted snug to pass the Foreman's inspection.
Good job
Good vidja, thanks Keith 👍
you need to make some chips now!
I really enjoy seeing these old machines come back to life. Thank you.
Looking good
Always great videos Keith; absolutely love watching you restore these workhorse machines. Did you ever consider machining off the cast boss nut from the first compound and coring it out for the post, then either making a new bronze capture nut or re-using the nut from the one you kept? Another (probably better) idea would be to bore out the hole for a bronze insert with the proper acme thread, held in place with a tapered pin that splits the bronze and cast iron.
looking good!
Very nice work Keith.
All of your viewers are getting some very good practical scraping tutorials.
Very nice repairs.
Maybe at a later date you could rebuild the larger compound.
You could machine a nut like the smaller one is and install the nut on the large compound.
I think it would be a good repair.
Or bore the nut casting out like others had suggested and install a nut.
The problem with that is the height problem as you encountered with the compound you machined.
As you said, it certainly is looking like a lathe again.
The Monarch is sure Heavy Duty.👍👍
Thanks for sharing the process.
Always learning with your videos.
Have a great weekend.
Looking forward to the first chips!
while you were scraping in the ways i heard you say "we still got a ways to go".... the irony i wonder if that is the origin of that saying, old machinists scraping in ways?🤔 love the vids
Thanks Keith. I'm happy for you.
Your Monarch is really shaping up. Thanks for posting.
Love this and the surface grinder series!
Great video thanks for sharing wish I was in your area this coming week it’s supposed to get really cold after tonight single digits with extreme negative wind chills god bless everyone
As good as new, or better!
This amount of detail makes a world of difference.
I'm curious if the missing bolt will keep Keith up at night, or is that good enough.
I'm thinking that the brass screw you turned down to fit , that you need to plow off a 1/16 on the top of that nut because O think its binding . That cross feed should move alot easier if just by hand. The crank handle is good but it should be smoother turning.
Happy Friday Georgia 😊
This is getting exciting!
Two compounds, two tailstocks... It is interesting, how many lathes one can assembly, just surfing on Keith's backyard? :)
What a beast! Looking forward to seeing it make some chips.
Like some others have stated, perhaps you could machine off the cast iron threaded lug on the bigger compound and modify it to accept a replaceable nut. That way you could have the compound you wanted to use and sell the smaller one. We remembered that you're under a time constraint to use the 612 (Tally Ho's capstan, maybe?), but it could be added to your long list of personal projects for the shop. Great video Keith.
I very much enjoy learning about scraping from your videos.
You should consider using an air hoist on the jib crane for the Monarch. Since you have compressed air in the shop already instead of a much heavier electric hoist
Looks great
Thank you for sharing.👍
😃Amazing work again will be glad to view it in operation. Thanks, Keith
Good work, as usual.
Thanks for video Keith. This is interesting cleaning and scraping in the compound
Damn good clean work! Nice work Sir!
Thanks Keith for the longer video content.
Great work Keith, thanks for sharing your talent
Hi Keith! Love the lathe!
Nice work! Greetings from Germany ❤
You now have clearance Clarence!!! ;-)
roger Roger, what's our vector Victor 🤣😂
I'll admit when I saw a few short clips of the game from Twitter I thought it looked more like a Second Life than a Sims, but I like where it's going now, the housing and neighborhood look great and the characters style it really coming along well.
super
Another great video. You make scraping look easy. Guess I'm going to have to find that needs scraping. 😀
I'm a gonna say it... I think its very easy to design that riser block, as part of a new base for the larger Compound and design it so it has a replaceable nut. I know you and Windy Hill Foundry got them skills and abilities and the pattern would not be a monumental task.
Had to put some work into cleaning up .as always impressive w.just keep doing what your doing.great video.just keep doing what your doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Nicely done! Really weird seeing that casted in place nut - that would be a chore having to replace that.
Another really Enjoyable watch Keith, perhaps you could bore out the old nut on theother ccompound and put a bronze bush with a new thread in it, or even machine it off and change itto a bronze nut like theshorter one?
Good work!
Phil UK
Ohhh..Looks like, you opend a can of worms on this one... :D But as usual, you mastered it.. This is a perfect outcome.. Thumbs up and greets from Austria.
My god that sadle is so big! Haha! Man this is reqlly coming together nicely!
for the gib you could have put your mag chuck on the mill should work for a light pass
Since you really wanted to use the larger compound, why did you not want to machine out the cast nut and machine a new one?
Fist time I've seen power scraping - NEAT!!!
I was expecting someone to call and say they have the entire tracing attachment
Blueing - The poor man's CMM.
Would have liked to see You Tubes ending with a blueing view after Scotch Brighing a machined surface.
Hydraulic duplicator removal - Definitely if you don't have have the hydraulics. Ours Monarch hydraulic duplicator ran a 50 hour week for 25 years supporting a 20 toolmaker shop - then as needed for another 20 years.
Great work! Learned a lot with the scraping. Can some explain how the lock works or what type rather. Does the screw push down or does it pull up and taper the locking part down? I want to make one for my lathe. Maybe someone has a better idea to put a lock on my compound. Need one on top or on the side without the gib.
Thanks
Keith - Out of curiosity I don't remember ever seeing you use a magnetic cup to hold the nuts and bolts during a disassembly. Any reason why?
I’ve seen some guys use a plastic tray, like you’d get in a cafeteria for your food, and have a tray for each job they were working on to hold all the bigger parts. I do like the magnetic parts holders like your talking about and have a few for the different jobs I’ve got going on. I was wondering the same when Keith was taking those apart to keep things separated.
Could you have used the nut from the good one and machine the bad one to fit it in? If it didn't work nowt lost as scrap anyway and go back to scraping (love watching you do this) cheers for great video again.
On that large compound, I know a guy named Keith Rucker.. he has a really cool machine shop and a buddy named Clark.. I wonder if we double dog dared them if Keith couldn't machine out that cast-in nut and 3D print a part that Clark could cast and Keith could machine up a new nut :)
If the belt sander was too coarse to use on the gib, could you have used a stone? Maybe not a precision stone, but one that would take off enough metal and leave a decent finish? I would be worried that I could make a mess of the gib on a sander. I had the same thought about the ways you took to be ground - perhaps on a lapping plate with sandpaper? I realize it would take longer, but would it be effective? I'm learning about all this stuff for the first time, and I wonder if hand tools are sometimes useful as well as power tools.
When I worked in the machine tool business, we could always tell who scraped something by the pattern they created. Like snowflakes, no two are the same!
Maybe the missing bolt is down in the hole and could be caught with a magnet?
I rarely use my compound
If the compound has 4-5 thousandths wear. How much wear does the bed have?
What I think is a shame is that the compound does not run smoothly after scraping. I would expect that after a restoration. Did something go wrong?
I think so too, but it appeared to me that everything was dry. Will he not lube the ways and the compound screw? Also it seemed the knob had a little lash, or was sticky.
I am with you, the compound would be a killer to run in and out as tight as it is. You can see Keith struggle a little just turning it. Hope it gets a little easier to turn as things wear in a little. As always a good video though.
OK, why didnt we mill off the fixed compound nut on the "better/more desirable" compound and fit the tight brass nut from the original compound? seems like less work that what you ended up having to do?
ALSO: WHERE are you buying these swivel handles from, My Clausing 13" roundtop needs one!!!!!!
It’s not really too late to do something like that with the longer compound, maybe just drill out the old threads and make a brass insert and thread that.
Another job for the to-do-list, I thought he said in the previous video that he got those swivel handles from McMaster-Carr, maybe he’ll reply.
Honestly, i would've gone for the other and just put a floating nut like the one on the one you chose at 19:35. But that's too late now, on account of all the scrape work you put into the other.
That said... how in the heck did it wear like that, cause that wear is not normal. It's almost as if the whole thing bowed out. On the ones i've fixed so far, worn as they were, i've never come across one that was so convex - and i have a couple of super old (ww1 era) lathes with some serious wear before repair. Weird, at least to me.
Just spiit-balling here. Maybe it wasn't wear? The pitting in the low area could be because it was a bad casting to begin with, or maybe it sat for a long time and corroded.
@@briantaylor9266my thoughts as well looks like it had been sat a while and the corrosion lead to rust jacking in the middle of the ways potentially bowing the parts
With the pitting and how deep it was in the low spots I'm guessing rust from moisture or coolant got that one, who knows how many decades it sat in the rain or out in a pole barn Before Rucker rescued it................
Thanks for all the great videos Keith. Please hit the 👍and Subscribe. Thank you.
I would like to hear more about why its better to make the riser block from cast iron versus whatever steel you have lying around or can source easily...
I think it has to do with the natural resonance of cast iron v steel, cast iron less prone to chattering and likely produce a smoother cut. That said, for a short riser block I think a chunk of solid steel would get the job done, nobody would notice if you didn't mention it.
boyz did i miss somethin, one minute you wanna take it to tke mill and even it up, didnt see it and you went back to scraping it
Any reason you wouldn't want to start that scraping job with a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface? That would get you close pretty quick. I have a smaller surface plate where its only purpose is to have a sheet of silicon carbide paper glued to it for flattening things.
I'd be tempted to mill off that cast thread with the shot lead screw threads. How much trouble is it to mount a traditional bronze nut on a shoulder bolt countersunk through the top slide?
When is Jimmy going to pick up his band-saw ?
The longer one had my vote.
Could you have milled the old nut off and installed the nut from the short?
Why hasn't Jimmy Diresta's band saw shipped out yet. I thought it was done.
I’m surprised you just didn’t soak them in Evapo-rust to get most of that rust off?
My guess is you need the lathe to work on Tally-Ho’s capstan?
I am wondering why you are doing all this when you have a horizontal mill
I would take the one you want to use and take out the threads and make a bushing with the threads you want and press together
It has been my experience you compromise then you pay each time you use the machine good Vedic as all ways 73 dan
Doesn't the compound slide seem tight to you, Keith?
can't you just cut down the tracing attachment and machine down it's surface so all that's left is the part you need instead of casting casting a riser block?. Take it to a chop saw and cop off the chunk you don't need, place it in a lathe and or mill and clean it up, bolt it down and call it done.
it looked like the nut on the smaller one was removeable. Odd that the larger one was not made that way.
"Larger one" might have been from a machine 10+ years older...... OR from a "War Time" WW2 lathe where they werent making them to last forever, just banging them out quick so people could get busy making bombs and cannon barrels?
Could you have milled away the nut on the other compound and then screwed the nut on it?
cant you fill up the casting and cut a new thread?
Sure seems like a lot of work to put in to the compound didn't want to use in the first place. Not sure why wouldn't have simply milled off the cast nut on the other compound and made a new bronze nut to match the existing lead screw.
Bore out and thread a bronze bush?
43rd👍!!
I think all the handles are missing from the knobs is because the machine is so big and protrudes out away from the work, the operators removed the handles because they were in their way.
Size D Aloris Wedge for the machine?????????
I dunno, but that in-out travel on the compound looks rather stiff.
cant wait to watch the chips fly.
If you know a good machinist, you could convert the other compound to use the replaceable nut.
The compound you are working on has a removable brass nut, why cant you machine out the nut on the bigger compound and cast a brass nut to fit it.??
20:28 hahahahaha
I watch your program all the time especially when you were scraping in your planer and Hbm. I wanted to ask so many questions. I was hoping to see you scrape in the head on your boring mill so I could have a good idea on how to do mine.
On your lathe compound you might want to consider using moglice to fill in the nut which would remove the play in the screw This is sold by DEVITT MACHINERY COMPANY
In regards to the nut that is cast in - Could you not machine out the old threads and replace them with a bronze nut insert? Making it a press-fit and putting a keyway to index it should prevent it from turning.
Another RUclipsr (Inheritance Machining) made a completely new Lead Screw and nut assembly for his lathe (ruclips.net/video/1l2_uCyBXQ0/видео.htmlsi=loi877s6a4a60--Y)
OR - could you not machine an area in the larger compound that would fit the nut from the smaller one? It looks like just a flat area and some holes.
Ar 31.40:maybe the slides or the gib have more some problem.hand scraping and maintenance of this carriage is not for all.need to know well how to do
Could you not make a sleeve and bore it out stick the sleeve in and rethread the sleeve for the rod that would move the compound slide? Now that’s what I would call repurpose the compound. Just an old man hating to see things thrown away.
After all that work wouldn't have been better to just mill the other compound nut off and drill a hole for the removable nuts?
Well Mr Rucker i have watched you for years but rubber gloves are a no no.