@@briand01 I don't need to show you anything, I built Machine Tools and Special Machinery at Bardons and Oliver Corp. in Cleveland, Ohio, now in Solon Ohio, and also at Foote Burt division of Reynolds Metals! And if you think that butcher job "Bubba" did on a fine machine tool is good work there would be no use showing you anyway! Thank heaven "Bubba" isn't working on peoples cars! The only reason I watch this butcher is for laughs!
@@AndrewMoizer I was thinking maybe he could have custom-machined a little pusher pin that was an ideal fit with the hole and the clamp. But hey, he got a solution in the end!
Keith I love the channel it is one of my favourite RUclips channels. You show engineering for what it is. Proem solving. It is not just solutions but arriving at solutions. You are honest and truthful. It is a privilege to journey with you as you develop your solutions. Thank you ❤️. Did you consider the old school solution of putting a small ball-bearing under the grub-screw on your lathe handle?
be sure and check out his older videos. he has made a lot of good content over the last several years. i found VM about 5-6 years ago and been hooked ever since.
I’d suggest simply doubling up the roll pin by inserting a smaller one inside the larger one. This is common practice for locking the pin and increasing shear strength. Cheers
I don't know about you all but I try to avoid completely driving roll pins flush. I always try to leave a little hanging out to grab with a pair of grips, or to weld a stud to for easy removal.
My big old Chez Lathe when I was still working it had a roll (spring) pin in the travel shaft no one could see untill a small screw was removed from inside the guard. Small one ment to shear off. Caused me a full day to get it figured out. Your in luck having that parts manual my friend. We have to switch trades by being a mechanic from a machinist. Sometimes not that easy, LOL. At the end of the day this lathe is a bit tougher to get that pin replaced. Some days life treats us well and your having one of those days Mr Mechanic, LOL. So, my Grandad always said. "Get it fixed and make it better when you can" and that is just what you have acomplished here today. Well done fella ! It is things like this that keep me coming back.
This is truly a beautiful example of quality engeneering and quality build!!! I was amazed that you could remove that cover withouth having to slack off a bunch of other things. Cudos to Monarch!
My family owns a cabin on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Central Idaho. This is in the middle of the Frank Churck Wilderness Area. Everything, and I mean everything, must be flown in or out. Boise is 55 minutes away by air, and Cascade/McCall is 30 minutes by air. A round trip to town is about $500 with Avgas over $6.00 a gal. The point of all this is necessity makes for some very creative solutions back there. At home, when I encounter a problem like this one, I say to myself, "ok, imagine I'm at the ranch." "What would I do?" It puts me in a more creative solution, like your realizing a roll pin would be fine and solve the problem! Thanks for the lesson. I've encountered many 15 min repairs like this one!
Your presentations are excellent. This one reminds me how many times I have found parts manual diagrams indispensable, when shop/repair/service manuals are not available.
Good job Keith. I certainly am happy for you that you did not have to totally disassemble the gear box. Sometimes you have to find another path. Thanks for sharing the process. Have a great day.
Your machine was like I came here to retire, and do some fun little projects. I ain’t turning a truck engine. So it was playing dead, hopping you go away 😂
Yes, you have a sheared pin. Saw this on another Monarch thirty or so years ago! Drove me nuts, but eventually figured out that was the issue. Except on mine, the pin was broken on the inner bevel gear, not the one you replaced with the spring pin. Had to take out a lot of the gearbox to be able to get to it.
One of the reasons why i've never liked tapered pins. When they work, awesome, but when they break, they can become an absolute chore and a half to remove. Over the years, where possible, i've been swapping them with roll pins. For most applications, the humble roll pin will do. In some cases, i also use piano wire through the roll pin which eliminates (or at the very least reduces) stress and cracking down the line. Of course, you have to have quality roll pins in the first place, which does take some time to ident and get in quantities. Old stuff work is never easy.
im guessing the tapered pins were the best for the job until roll pins were available on a national level and of course much cheaper. you can easily turn a taper pin on a small lathe but it requires special steel and machinery to make roll pins. just my opinion.
To me, the only downside to taper pins is that they require individual fitting. IMO they are unmatched for precision angular timing, strength and zero slop. Removal is usually straightforward once you know to use the shortest pin punch you can bring to bear, and if necessary, apply a bit of heat and beeswax. Better than any commercial penetrating oil. If not possible, make or modify a small puller or vice. I hate to say it but Keith's impatience on this job did both him and the lathe a disservice. He is however to be commended for making it possible for us to learn the pitfalls, unfiltered. Muchos kudos, Keith!
Keith: I was an Army Machinist and in training all of our lathes had those pins replaced with brass ones. The reason for it is if or more like when an appron travels into a moving chuck it instantly shears and keeps the lathe from excessive damage.
Keith, I had to deal with a similar issue before with hardened pins and shafts. After I broke a few carbide drill bits I went to an old trick. I went to Lowe's and bought a few carbide tipped masonry bits. Sharpened them real nice for a standard drill angle and they worked like a charm for a fraction of what purpose carbide drill bits cost.
Keith: You said when Monarch fitted those tapered pins they never intended for them to be taken apart, you hit my “way-back” button. In the late 1980s I was a Product Engineer for Ford in the engine engineering area. I had the good luck to attend three lectures given by the legendary quality guru W. Edwards Demming. (Look him up.) He is credited with teaching the Japanese his process control quality system, as they rebuilt their destroyed industrial capacity after WWII, that put Japanese cars at the top of the quality charts. He was modest about what he accomplished - said he was just a second rate statistician. Demming was in his late 80s when I saw him, mentally still sharp, but big & slow moving. Instead of making our heads spin with statistical grimble, he began by giving us examples of dumb things that could have been done way better with just a moment of thought. Each example ended with a plaintive “What’d they do that for?” Examples: When he checked into the new hotel down the road from Ford’s WHQ building, he found the doors to the guest rooms were in alcoves. There were ceiling lights along the hallway, but they didn’t align with the alcoves. Result was Demming couldn’t see the damn keyhole to fit his room key. “What’d they do that for? Another example: Demming visited a bottling plant that was suffering a high breakage rate of the bottled product. The conveyor line took a right angle turn at a corner of the building. Just filled bottles of soda would tip, some fell off the conveyor, hit the concrete floor and shattered, dumping sugary pop and broken glass all over that corner of the plant. Being a corner, that conveyor line was hard to clean up. You had to take it apart to clean behind it. And the Health Department inspectors were frequently shutting down the plant because of the mess and the bugs in that inaccessible corner. All together now,”What’d do that for?” Lookin at that wonderful old Monarch lathe’s vertical tapered pin orientation, I had to wonder, What’d they do that for?!” Machine manufacturers know that eventually everything needs servicing. If they had drilled that shaft and handle horizontally instead of vertically, they would have the Keith Ruckers of the world several hours of aggravation. “What’d do that for?!”
Or the exhaust canister bolts on my FJR-1300, with the heads pointed INWARD so they couldn't be removed w/o removing the entire exhaust and other things. I had to cut the bolts and install new ones from the outside. ""What'd they do that for?" (aka "GODDAMNIT Yamaha!")
There is nothing wrong with that hole being vertical. The sequence of assembly would be to put the shafts in from the bottom to the top. Lathes are not built for easy repair access like cars or aircraft. They were worked hard and when they broke or wore down eventually, factory engineers or specialist rebuilders would be brought in to do the job. The proper way to repair it would have been to disassemble and remove all the shafts to get good access to the problem area. Keith decided (quite justifiably) that this was too much effort to solve the problem hence the bodge. Time is precious so if the bodge works and isn't likely to cause further problems in future it is acceptable.
It would have saved most of the palaver of he had avoided punching the broken pin small end the wrong way, and just refined his first method, using a more suitable clamp or toolmakers modified if needed, as a pusher
Sharpen a masonry bit to drill hardened material. You could also try putting that dowel back where you tried it previously, then place a wedge tight under the dowel. Then push your handle down, forcing the dowel against the wedge to drive the pin out.
Nice to see these old Monarch machines still working. They were build in the town where I live. We go by the old factory very often. Nice to know they still serve a purpose. Noce repair.
Ay... que frustrante resultan las cosas a veces cuando uno va a encarar un nuevo trabajo y la herramienta principal, por algún motivo no funciona. Me pasó hace un par de días que fui a encender mi sierra de mesa y el interruptor de encendido no funcionaba. Me perdí 2 horas desarmando eso para hacer que funcionara nuevamente. Pero bueno, como se dice por acá, "gajes del oficio". Un abrazo y arriba el ánimo! Gracias por compartir tus trabajos de los que aprendemos mucho! Germán, Lomas de Solymar, Uruguay
You are fortunate you don't have machine OCD, Machine OCD leads to just a heap of disassembled non working machines - small portions of which look very nice - don't ask me how I know. Can't wait to see the big cane roller bearing surfaces turned - gonna be sweet.
Keith. Machine the lrge end of the new taper pin so that it has a thread on it long enough to just get under the depth of the handle boss. You can then use the pin as a self extracting pin if you need to remove it at a later date by tightening a nut and washer down onto itself. Xx
Oh so you are retiring! Well congratulations. I certainly remember my last day of my 36 year career. Just you wait you think you work now. You will be busier now than you have ever been. No time for anything but work work work...
Thanks, Keith. I love watching mechanical engineers work! You know a lot more than I do about mechanics, but I was wondering - why not drill and tap the hole for the tapered pin and replace it with a Bradley screw (combination set screw and pin) to make it easier to remove next time? Thanks again for making these videos!
Ugh, i have to take my gearbox apart because of an intermittent gremlin and i've been putting it apart for a couple of months now. Kinda kicks my derriere into doing it, so thanks for the motivation Keith. :))
I noticed at the beginning when you were doing your initial look-over that the pin stood proud over the handle. It raised my suspicions that there might of been a problem there.
I've successfully used a masonry bit to drill through outer hardened surface on hardened steel. Then you can follow up with regular drill bit depending on drilled part thickness.
I think things went wrong when you pushed the broken taper pin up until it engaged with the shaft. Up until that point you could have maybe withdrawn the lever axially and knocked out the pin on the bench.
In this case, it was not the fault of the lathe's design which caused the wasted time but the unnecessary removal of covers, undertaken because the job hadn't been carefully scoped before starting. I fully realise that I'm hunting for nits in the hair of angels here, and I don't D myself do nearly as well as Keith generally does when I try to video a repair as I do when I take my time in private, but one of the blessings of being retired or voluntary is that it's completely optional whether you ever say "this has already taken too long"
I have always made a point to make the necessary special tools to get taper pins out rather than work around them, on well designed machine tools. To do otherwise, I think, slightly dishonours the machine builders, and does posterity a disservice. Now, after some years, I can draw on previous instances, usually either by modifying a previously made item, or by strappimg together stock items, like a small toolmakers vice, or a V block, and perhaps a bush or some parallels.
Fixing the tools - to fix the tools - to fix the tools - to do the job. Like when you pick up the hammer and the head falls off and rolls under the bench out of sight and beyond reach and your trouble light burns out just then etc.
Keith and the rest of us who work with our hands.... MD here and hands are not Hammers. The hand will wear out faster if we hit things hard with a hand.
Pretty sure Keith was thinking that shaft may be hardened, so when he started drilling he was thinking "don't be hard, don't be hard... Aargh, it's hard!" I hate it when that happens and I have to start sacrificing hand tools.
Those old engineers who decided to put both pins on the outside should be saluted! Nice work, Keith!
That was for ease of assembly.
Nice work, you have to be kidding, more like butcher work on a fine machine tool!
@@garybrenner6236 You can do better? Make a video and show us how it's done.
@@briand01 I don't need to show you anything, I built Machine Tools and Special Machinery at Bardons and Oliver Corp. in Cleveland, Ohio, now in Solon Ohio, and also at Foote Burt division of Reynolds Metals!
And if you think that butcher job "Bubba" did on a fine machine tool is good work there would be no use showing you anyway!
Thank heaven "Bubba" isn't working on peoples cars!
The only reason I watch this butcher is for laughs!
@@garybrenner6236 Kick rocks bud. You're not impressing anyone.
That clamp pushing the pin out was really clever!
I've had similar problems in the past. Never considered that as a solution. Another one added to the arsenal. 💯👍
I thought so too! Maybe a little percussive therapy while under tension would have jarred that pin segment out?
@@AndrewMoizer I was thinking maybe he could have custom-machined a little pusher pin that was an ideal fit with the hole and the clamp. But hey, he got a solution in the end!
Keith I love the channel it is one of my favourite RUclips channels. You show engineering for what it is. Proem solving. It is not just solutions but arriving at solutions. You are honest and truthful. It is a privilege to journey with you as you develop your solutions. Thank you ❤️.
Did you consider the old school solution of putting a small ball-bearing under the grub-screw on your lathe handle?
Awesome content - I love this channel. Thank you Tally Ho for bringing me here I am totally hooked 👍
be sure and check out his older videos. he has made a lot of good content over the last several years. i found VM about 5-6 years ago and been hooked ever since.
#TallyHo
Good job you know someone who is good at fixing old machines! Love seeing the problem solving...
I am so impressed with your endless patience while solving these problems.
Good Job Keith. Congratulations on Retiring and I hope you get to do all the times you want in the shop.
Love the idea of turning the failed drill thru hole to a set screw feature. Great Job!!
I’d suggest simply doubling up the roll pin by inserting a smaller one inside the larger one. This is common practice for locking the pin and increasing shear strength. Cheers
Probably better to just use a coiled spring pin instead.
I don't know about you all but I try to avoid completely driving roll pins flush. I always try to leave a little hanging out to grab with a pair of grips, or to weld a stud to for easy removal.
My big old Chez Lathe when I was still working it had a roll (spring) pin in the travel shaft no one could see untill a small screw was removed from inside the guard. Small one ment to shear off. Caused me a full day to get it figured out. Your in luck having that parts manual my friend. We have to switch trades by being a mechanic from a machinist. Sometimes not that easy, LOL. At the end of the day this lathe is a bit tougher to get that pin replaced. Some days life treats us well and your having one of those days Mr Mechanic, LOL. So, my Grandad always said. "Get it fixed and make it better when you can" and that is just what you have acomplished here today. Well done fella ! It is things like this that keep me coming back.
This is truly a beautiful example of quality engeneering and quality build!!! I was amazed that you could remove that cover withouth having to slack off a bunch of other things. Cudos to Monarch!
Watching a master problem solve is amazing, well done!
My family owns a cabin on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Central Idaho. This is in the middle of the Frank Churck Wilderness Area. Everything, and I mean everything, must be flown in or out. Boise is 55 minutes away by air, and Cascade/McCall is 30 minutes by air. A round trip to town is about $500 with Avgas over $6.00 a gal. The point of all this is necessity makes for some very creative solutions back there. At home, when I encounter a problem like this one, I say to myself, "ok, imagine I'm at the ranch." "What would I do?" It puts me in a more creative solution, like your realizing a roll pin would be fine and solve the problem! Thanks for the lesson. I've encountered many 15 min repairs like this one!
You know things are going bad when you hear him say, "Dadgummit!"
But it's all good now...interesting fix, and thanks for sharing.
I like your thought process and the different ways you tried to fix this machine. I to can appreciate the way you finally fixed it. Ric
Your presentations are excellent. This one reminds me how many times I have found parts manual diagrams indispensable, when shop/repair/service manuals are not available.
Good job Keith.
I certainly am happy for you that you did not have to totally disassemble the gear box.
Sometimes you have to find another path.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Have a great day.
Your machine was like I came here to retire, and do some fun little projects. I ain’t turning a truck engine. So it was playing dead, hopping you go away 😂
I felt that "ha ha!" success call at the end there. Love that feeling.
The pros and cons of “they don’t make em like they used to” 😂
Nice repair Keith
Thanks Keith
Yes, you have a sheared pin. Saw this on another Monarch thirty or so years ago! Drove me nuts, but eventually figured out that was the issue. Except on mine, the pin was broken on the inner bevel gear, not the one you replaced with the spring pin. Had to take out a lot of the gearbox to be able to get to it.
One of the reasons why i've never liked tapered pins. When they work, awesome, but when they break, they can become an absolute chore and a half to remove. Over the years, where possible, i've been swapping them with roll pins. For most applications, the humble roll pin will do. In some cases, i also use piano wire through the roll pin which eliminates (or at the very least reduces) stress and cracking down the line. Of course, you have to have quality roll pins in the first place, which does take some time to ident and get in quantities. Old stuff work is never easy.
im guessing the tapered pins were the best for the job until roll pins were available on a national level and of course much cheaper. you can easily turn a taper pin on a small lathe but it requires special steel and machinery to make roll pins. just my opinion.
To me, the only downside to taper pins is that they require individual fitting. IMO they are unmatched for precision angular timing, strength and zero slop. Removal is usually straightforward once you know to use the shortest pin punch you can bring to bear, and if necessary, apply a bit of heat and beeswax. Better than any commercial penetrating oil. If not possible, make or modify a small puller or vice.
I hate to say it but Keith's impatience on this job did both him and the lathe a disservice. He is however to be commended for making it possible for us to learn the pitfalls, unfiltered. Muchos kudos, Keith!
The satisfaction of a successful repair. Taking care of the machine that takes care of our biz.🙂
I haven't seen any videos from you in a long time. I do like to see the old stuff up and running again.
That is what I call a Ruckerized fix. Lol. Sometimes you just have to be creative and make it work. Well done Mr. RUCKER.
Keith: I was an Army Machinist and in training all of our lathes had those pins replaced with brass ones. The reason for it is if or more like when an appron travels into a moving chuck it instantly shears and keeps the lathe from excessive damage.
Thanks for sharing Keith
Keith,
I had to deal with a similar issue before with hardened pins and shafts. After I broke a few carbide drill bits I went to an old trick. I went to Lowe's and bought a few carbide tipped masonry bits. Sharpened them real nice for a standard drill angle and they worked like a charm for a fraction of what purpose carbide drill bits cost.
Thank you Keith!
That you can do this without swearing shows your excellent upbringing, discipline, or fine editing.
😅
Absolutely. This guy is a saint.
Well done!
A great title for a video detailing the annoying problem solving an equipment failure. Thanks for sharing Keith.
Keith: You said when Monarch fitted those tapered pins they never intended for them to be taken apart, you hit my “way-back” button.
In the late 1980s I was a Product Engineer for Ford in the engine engineering area. I had the good luck to attend three lectures given by the legendary quality guru W. Edwards Demming. (Look him up.) He is credited with teaching the Japanese his process control quality system, as they rebuilt their destroyed industrial capacity after WWII, that put Japanese cars at the top of the quality charts. He was modest about what he accomplished - said he was just a second rate statistician.
Demming was in his late 80s when I saw him, mentally still sharp, but big & slow moving. Instead of making our heads spin with statistical grimble, he began by giving us examples of dumb things that could have been done way better with just a moment of thought. Each example ended with a plaintive “What’d they do that for?” Examples:
When he checked into the new hotel down the road from Ford’s WHQ building, he found the doors to the guest rooms were in alcoves. There were ceiling lights along the hallway, but they didn’t align with the alcoves. Result was Demming couldn’t see the damn keyhole to fit his room key. “What’d they do that for?
Another example: Demming visited a bottling plant that was suffering a high breakage rate of the bottled product. The conveyor line took a right angle turn at a corner of the building. Just filled bottles of soda would tip, some fell off the conveyor, hit the concrete floor and shattered, dumping sugary pop and broken glass all over that corner of the plant. Being a corner, that conveyor line was hard to clean up. You had to take it apart to clean behind it. And the Health Department inspectors were frequently shutting down the plant because of the mess and the bugs in that inaccessible corner. All together now,”What’d do that for?”
Lookin at that wonderful old Monarch lathe’s vertical tapered pin orientation, I had to wonder, What’d they do that for?!” Machine manufacturers know that eventually everything needs servicing. If they had drilled that shaft and handle horizontally instead of vertically, they would have the Keith Ruckers of the world several hours of aggravation. “What’d do that for?!”
Or the exhaust canister bolts on my FJR-1300, with the heads pointed INWARD so they couldn't be removed w/o removing the entire exhaust and other things. I had to cut the bolts and install new ones from the outside. ""What'd they do that for?" (aka "GODDAMNIT Yamaha!")
There is nothing wrong with that hole being vertical. The sequence of assembly would be to put the shafts in from the bottom to the top. Lathes are not built for easy repair access like cars or aircraft. They were worked hard and when they broke or wore down eventually, factory engineers or specialist rebuilders would be brought in to do the job. The proper way to repair it would have been to disassemble and remove all the shafts to get good access to the problem area. Keith decided (quite justifiably) that this was too much effort to solve the problem hence the bodge. Time is precious so if the bodge works and isn't likely to cause further problems in future it is acceptable.
It would have saved most of the palaver of he had avoided punching the broken pin small end the wrong way, and just refined his first method, using a more suitable clamp or toolmakers modified if needed, as a pusher
THE Doctor of Machining and Repair strikes again!
Way to Go Professor!
Thank you for what you do, much appreciated!
Then again, you ARE retired, so what's the rush? LOL. Fun watching you figure stuff out. You are a great detective.
Sharpen a masonry bit to drill hardened material. You could also try putting that dowel back where you tried it previously, then place a wedge tight under the dowel. Then push your handle down, forcing the dowel against the wedge to drive the pin out.
Keep the angle of the factory grind and just bring it to an edge? 🤔
It's amazing to see so much expertise.
What an incredible craftsman!
Wonderful to be able to view his work.
Nice to see these old Monarch machines still working. They were build in the town where I live. We go by the old factory very often. Nice to know they still serve a purpose. Noce repair.
Good morning Keith! Good save. Thanks for the videos.
I just ran into basically the same problem. Chewing up my drill bits and no option but to keep going. Hard steel!!
thank you Keith
Good video Keith.
I love seeing those big Monarch’s come back to life!!!
good job
Work around innovation at its best! That should be a long term repair, thanks for bringing us along on a real workflow issue resolution!
Murphy is always busy.
Nice save.
Thanks for a good troubleshoot video. I really like how you figured that out with the gear assembly picture.
Nicely done Keith
Thank you for sharing your experience
One challenge after another, good job.
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Ay... que frustrante resultan las cosas a veces cuando uno va a encarar un nuevo trabajo y la herramienta principal, por algún motivo no funciona. Me pasó hace un par de días que fui a encender mi sierra de mesa y el interruptor de encendido no funcionaba. Me perdí 2 horas desarmando eso para hacer que funcionara nuevamente. Pero bueno, como se dice por acá, "gajes del oficio". Un abrazo y arriba el ánimo! Gracias por compartir tus trabajos de los que aprendemos mucho!
Germán, Lomas de Solymar, Uruguay
Take a drink on "going on"!!!!! Thank you for your time.
Great job Keith, you have a better late than yesterday. Great repair video again, and thanks for sharing the process, Keith.
Thanks Keith the little thing take the longest time. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Great job.
You are fortunate you don't have machine OCD, Machine OCD leads to just a heap of disassembled non working machines - small portions of which look very nice - don't ask me how I know. Can't wait to see the big cane roller bearing surfaces turned - gonna be sweet.
Good result.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Trabalhoso!!!Importante que deu tudo certo amigo!!!
Boa sorte sempre!!!
Good fix Keith. very glad it was as easy as it was. get that roller
Adapt and overcome!! Great job!
Every time that drill grabbed my wrists ached in sympathy!
Love this kind of content, problem solving etc.!
Keith. Machine the lrge end of the new taper pin so that it has a thread on it long enough to just get under the depth of the handle boss. You can then use the pin as a self extracting pin if you need to remove it at a later date by tightening a nut and washer down onto itself. Xx
Happy Monday Georgia! 😊
adapt, overcome, improvise, and survive!
Oh so you are retiring! Well congratulations. I certainly remember my last day of my 36 year career. Just you wait you think you work now. You will be busier now than you have ever been. No time for anything but work work work...
There's nothing a cunning plan can't beat or fix.
Thanks, Keith. I love watching mechanical engineers work! You know a lot more than I do about mechanics, but I was wondering - why not drill and tap the hole for the tapered pin and replace it with a Bradley screw (combination set screw and pin) to make it easier to remove next time? Thanks again for making these videos!
Field expediency! Good on ya!!!
Good luck with the hurricane and stay safe.
☔
Good job
Ugh, i have to take my gearbox apart because of an intermittent gremlin and i've been putting it apart for a couple of months now. Kinda kicks my derriere into doing it, so thanks for the motivation Keith. :))
So nice you didn't have to tear into that gear box.
I noticed at the beginning when you were doing your initial look-over that the pin stood proud over the handle. It raised my suspicions that there might of been a problem there.
I've successfully used a masonry bit to drill through outer hardened surface on hardened steel. Then you can follow up with regular drill bit depending on drilled part thickness.
What a fight! Make sure you make a note in your parts book of the extra and old pin still in there.
Life is what happens while you are making plans. Now FIXED FOR LIFE !
I think things went wrong when you pushed the broken taper pin up until it engaged with the shaft. Up until that point you could have maybe withdrawn the lever axially and knocked out the pin on the bench.
I agree and furthermore I think it's a trap to fall into to think I've already spent too long on this
In this case, it was not the fault of the lathe's design which caused the wasted time but the unnecessary removal of covers, undertaken because the job hadn't been carefully scoped before starting. I fully realise that I'm hunting for nits in the hair of angels here, and I don't D myself do nearly as well as Keith generally does when I try to video a repair as I do when I take my time in private, but one of the blessings of being retired or voluntary is that it's completely optional whether you ever say "this has already taken too long"
I have always made a point to make the necessary special tools to get taper pins out rather than work around them, on well designed machine tools. To do otherwise, I think, slightly dishonours the machine builders, and does posterity a disservice. Now, after some years, I can draw on previous instances, usually either by modifying a previously made item, or by strappimg together stock items, like a small toolmakers vice, or a V block, and perhaps a bush or some parallels.
The 10EE are infamous for the tapered pins and the fun removing them. Speculation is they were often hand drilled in place.
Maestro!!
Love it
Well, I find if it can go wrong it usually does at the most inopportune time! Good fix brither.
Fixing the tools - to fix the tools - to fix the tools - to do the job.
Like when you pick up the hammer and the head falls off
and rolls under the bench out of sight and beyond reach
and your trouble light burns out just then
etc.
Good fix. I hate it when shop equipment goes down.
Thank you for tripling your work load so I can sip coffee and watch you work.
Well done, I have noticed a bit of play in that control before and thought it was supposed to be there. Good fix though.
Keith and the rest of us who work with our hands.... MD here and hands are not Hammers. The hand will wear out faster if we hit things hard with a hand.
Keith "Master Machinist Detective" Rucker. 🤓
Pretty sure Keith was thinking that shaft may be hardened, so when he started drilling he was thinking "don't be hard, don't be hard... Aargh, it's hard!" I hate it when that happens and I have to start sacrificing hand tools.
working on my south bend lathe I stamped where I could "B" for big end on those taper pins. Was difficult to tell which end was which on short pins.
hi there i think you got lucky , well done , best to all john
Watching real life Malcolm in the middle! Congrats Keith.
Damn that looks so bloody frustrating! I probably would have given up and gone for a cuppa or three before getting back to figuring it out 😂
Happy retirement….long time coming I’m sure