I think Keith is a stickler for extreme precision. I’ve noticed that he always uploads at the same time, I’m on the wast coast and if I get a YT notice at 3:01am it’s always Vintage Machinery, you can basically set your watch by it.
Many shops do not appreciate that if your tooling is inaccurate then your work product never will be. I learned that lesson in metrology working along side with master machinists who learned from back in the 1950's and 1960's. As an engineer I gained an appreciation for their decades of experience.
Great video. Old Tool and Die Maker here. We used to grind in the chuck on Harig 612s due to workpiece wear. I can't believe how much comes back to me even after being off the bench for 20 years. Thanks again. Nice work.
I first had the same thought, but then if he want the jaws the opposite way, a problem will happen. These jaws can be mounted either way. Sorry for my English.
It's a 4 jaw, no need to. The jaws move independently to allow the machinist to dial in the workpiece. If it was a scroll style 3 or 6 jaw, then yes a preload is absolutely needed.
Using your Lathe to repair your Lathe! I love it! My Father was a Machinist before is was born so a little rubbed off on me. I'm now 57 and he's 83. I still enjoy learning Machinist tips and tricks! Thank you.
At about 27:30 Ginger the shop safety foremen can be seen making sure everything is going good Keith. Keep up the good work. Aways a pleasure to see a master at work. Scotch bright the outside edge to clean it up. I know it doesn't matter to function but appearance matters.
This is one of THOSE videos that will be an excellent video for all of RUclips, for refurbishing an old 4 jaw chuck... Great Job...! and definingly time well spent....!
Brilliant job,never seen a chuck grinder before but yes it works,I love the idea of repairing a good solid chuck and not just buying new and discarding a good workhorse chuck that will last a lifetime,that to me is point of best practice engineering,now a retired machine tool setter operator from across the pond,I certainly will be watching your videos now,It brings fond memories of a job I enjoyed everyday of my life,God bless sir I look forward to your posts
That was a master class on how to properly apply true-up/diagnostic processes on an old piece of equipment. Perfect example of working out from the spindle of the lathe. Thank you for sharing the journey Keith.
Good observation for not being a machinist, when turn or grinding chuck jaws they should always be loaded/clamped. This insures they are ridgid for the cutting operation and more importantly under the same stress as when they are used. This will greatly increase accuracy.
@@richmccabe2902 There is no load on them when grinding. And they can be flipped around to grip from the inside so preloading them would probably not help overall.
I worked with a worn out chuck for over 20 years. As long as I never changed the set-up I was ok. Haveing this to help me all those years to go sure would have helped a lot. Awesome post Keith, Where were you 25 years ago, LOL.
Keith, I can feel your frustration. It's another one of those "I want to do "A", but I can't because it requires that "B" be fixed (or changed) first. Aaahhhhhh, but "B" requires that "C" be fixed first. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!! Way too often do I find myself in this kind of situation. Grrrrrrr!!!!!!
Thank you for allowing people to see a craftsman at work, very relaxing viewing, nice to see the foreman keeping an eye on things in the background as well.
9:30 you can really see the runout on the headstock side of the back plate...... all the way down in Orlando.........this is a wonderful explanation on getting your runout out.......PB
First view and a first comment, it’s a good day. About to go drive six hours round trip to pick up a No. 3 Canton Crane for $750, gonna be a heck of a day. No i will not be turning it into a hanging chair holder. It’ll get used to lift material to and from the big old 1919 Fay and Scott patternmakers gap bed lathe (11’ between centers with the bed fully extended) that’s in my shop. It’ll also get put to use moving big machine tables about, so I can get into the guts of the of the machines in the shop when needed. Someday I’ll have a big jib crane like Keith does, but this will do just fine for now. And just for reference, I’m 28 years of age. Fun to be a young person using really old machines and tools to make chairs (you guessed it! I’m a chairmaker). Update: The crane is loaded up, tied down, and I’m east bound and down, loaded up and trucking back to seacoast NH where it will live forever in my shop, or until I die, whichever comes first.
Maintaining tools ... and you have so many of them. Great to see the hoist being used again with the lathe, it just proved how needed those efforts were worth.
I have folloved many machinist pros and I have noticed that when grind the chuck jaws you have to preload them with inner or outher ring - depend on what grind - there normaly is some slak in the sliding groves... hope it will go for a long time.
Absolutely what I expected, if it’s broken, you should fix it. In the bustling era we are in, repairing and maintaining the tooling is in many cases a R&R with new. To show how to troubleshoot and correct the problem is far more important than to just replace. Besides there is little satisfaction in just replacing when modifying is possible. Two thumbs waiving at you Keith!
Thanks for the video! l appreciate you showing how to get more accuracy from your tooling. What impressed me most about this video is that having the tools available meant all that was required was the time to do it. KOKO!
outstanding job recycling that chuck and making it almost like new! I found a box long ago marked toolpost grinder, I'm going to have to investigate that now.
This old chuck must have been very well manufactured and tempered/hardened to be so dinged up and still have good tolerances after your truing process. Very satisfying to watch!
It make me feel good to see someone else who takes the time to fix things rather then go buy new stuff that's most likely not made with the quality the older stuff is made. That's the problem with the younger generation and it's not thier fault. They were raised in a culture of the throw away stuff and we were raised in a time of fix what you have mostly because we couldn't afford to go out and buy new things. We were raised when there was a TV repair and radio repair in every town ,shoe repair ,appliance repair shops and the lists goes on an on. Now there's hardly any repair shops because of our throw away wasteful society.
I greatly admire your patience, Keith. I had some much more minor struggles with a much smaller chuck earlier this week, and I might have used some adult language during the process. 😊
seen its better days" heck that ol chuck is going through its best days now! with a owner like keith it will be use properly and well cared for from now on! nice work keith!!
Great Video! I would bet that the one Jaw that was off may well have come from a different chuck! you just never know what to expect with really old gear!
That was beautiful. I don't know why but this video was very satisfying to watch. I think it's the thought of taking an almost useless tool and giving it a new life. That Chuck will serve you well for the rest of your life and maybe longer for the next owner. It's so satisfying to have the tools and skills to accomplish that. Thank you again for sharing these videos with us.
Keith, when tightening bolts "on a circle" it's always good to tighten them not in "going around" fashion but "going across" way. Like, here it'd be "top-bottom-left-right", not "12-3-6-9". Certainly not a matter of life or death, but it'll help to tighten things evenly. Also, somehow this "side job" was more captivating than the "proper one", i.e. the brake drums. Cheers.
All making sense but why didnt you protect the bed of your lathe. Grinding material do grind the bed too. But your grinding work is very nice And cool that you mentioned this at the end of your video. 😊
Rather than eyeballing those rings, I would have used the centering plug to find the machine's center and spaced them exact inches from center using the lathe's metrology. Taking about 2 hours to save hundreds or thousands is a very good wage.
I had a lathe and a good chuck, and it was not behaving like that. What I found was swarf just a single slice was in the threads. Yes threads. Once out the chuck trued. I think you are on to the issue here. I think the lathe needs to be verified and work outward. I suspect it is for another lathe. And I've seen jaws in stacks and chucks flat stacked feet tall. Surplus guys don't do us right all of the time. I take off my compound and put my tool post grinder on it. Yes, one loses flexibility but one doesn't always need it.
Nice video, I would have liked to see the chuck body on the surface plate to measure a few things, and I would have liked to see the face plate held in the jaws just for a quick check after grinding. great video and that chuck sure posed a bit of a challenge to figure out. Wonder how it got that way, maybe someone changed a single jaw at one time? cheers!
ALWAYS cover your ways when grinding. It’s easy and cheap insurance, and just good practice. Sure, you can always clean up afterwards and hope nothing gets where it shouldn’t, but why even need the follow up steps. Have a sheet of rubber or something similar to lay over the ways when grinding.
I have an old 1906 5 Step Cone Lathe with an 18” 4-Jaw Chuck but I’ve been wanting to true up the face and jaws so you releasing a video of the process is a godsend for me to use as a reference. I was extremely hesitant to tackle this but you broke it down logically and went over each point where the runout could originate which cleared up my doubts on continuous procrastination for tackling. My lathe spindle has a large 4TPI external thread which is was wondering if it might pose any unique challenges since I swap out for my 8” 6-jaw?
Just a few days ago I saw a couple of videos on "The Outback Shop" channel that showed a solution for setups to handle parallel surfaces with high accuracy. He has a video for making T-slot support bars, then, in his fly cutter video, he machines bolt on stand-offs (or risers) in place to get a 4 point reference surface that does not rely on the vagaries of worn jaws or jaw guides. It is a fair amount of extra work and the 4-jaw has to have T-slots or some other way to affix the stand-offs. In your case, you could use the pre-drilled holes in the chuck but that limits the placement of the supports to a specific diameter.
Very cool. Using the tool to make itself more precise. I wonder if you had to undercut the steps in the jaw a little to account for whatever radius was on the corner of the grinding wheel.
After careful consideration I think what happened was somebody had a large piece of material they were trying to put in the chuck and they struck the chuck very hard with a suspended piece of material like a battering ram and that's what caused it to be damaged.
Fantastic job Keith! Looks really good after you refurbished that chuck. I know it must wear you out getting criticisms or critiques but as a Certified Auto Technician it makes me cringe when I see you torque down fasteners in a non crisscrossing pattern. Anyways I am loving the extra videos you are able to put out now that you have “retired”.
Maybe it was bent by a crash? I probably would have checked the tracks for straightness after truing up the backing plate didn't work. Make sure it's something that can be saved before spending all day on it. From there, the first thing I'd do is shim in true to the rails and face the front, so that when you put on the faceplate you're machining it true to the jaws.
Make a better backplate, one that tightens without a shim to start. Now on the less than the best solutions. Staying with the original backplate with shim... Check the lathe nose, see that it is not the problem. Clear the rust from all surfaces. Maybe use the granite to check these are correctly aligned. Then clamp the cleaned backplate, check it is not the problem. If there are problems at this point correct them. Nevermind doing this correctly, going back to first principles, pick an interim place to start, work from there. Your choice for some reason. I'm sure that all these steps were in your mind while thinking this over, you can not have just unlearned all that you know.
@@briand01 well, as you say, by the time any of us see this it is already done... through the magic of video done 4-5 weeks before in fact. So what are YOU going on about. You heard whine when a simple comment was made, so be it. Beware the trolls!
Fascinating. I did wonder why you did not put the chuck on a milling machine and mill the slots out that the jaws ran in but there must be a reason. Be good to see the first item re machined on the refurbished chuck at the end to see how much came off it.
Keith, I admire your perseverance in keeping up the new pace of posting high-quality videos. Congratulations!
I think Keith is a stickler for extreme precision. I’ve noticed that he always uploads at the same time, I’m on the wast coast and if I get a YT notice at 3:01am it’s always Vintage Machinery, you can basically set your watch by it.
Many shops do not appreciate that if your tooling is inaccurate then your work product never will be. I learned that lesson in metrology working along side with master machinists who learned from back in the 1950's and 1960's. As an engineer I gained an appreciation for their decades of experience.
It's all good to be able to reuse something that just involves a little thought and effort.
Chuck is good for another 70 years. Nice video
Great video. Old Tool and Die Maker here. We used to grind in the chuck on Harig 612s due to workpiece wear. I can't believe how much comes back to me even after being off the bench for 20 years. Thanks again. Nice work.
I was surprised you didn’t preload the jaws some how before grinding
I first had the same thought, but then if he want the jaws the opposite way, a problem will happen. These jaws can be mounted either way.
Sorry for my English.
i think definitely pre load the jaws
No need. He was not grinding the gripping faces of the jaws.
It's a 4 jaw, no need to. The jaws move independently to allow the machinist to dial in the workpiece. If it was a scroll style 3 or 6 jaw, then yes a preload is absolutely needed.
Just gona say the same.
Thanks Keith excellent video. I was surprised you didn't preload the jaws prior to grinding to remove any play.
As always Keith, a very interesting video. Thank you for taking the time!
Using your Lathe to repair your Lathe! I love it! My Father was a Machinist before is was born so a little rubbed off on me. I'm now 57 and he's 83. I still enjoy learning Machinist tips and tricks! Thank you.
At about 27:30 Ginger the shop safety foremen can be seen making sure everything is going good Keith. Keep up the good work. Aways a pleasure to see a master at work. Scotch bright the outside edge to clean it up. I know it doesn't matter to function but appearance matters.
And then a doggo at 28:11 comes it to make sure it all smells right. name?
Keith,
You now know it is as good as you need it. Great work.
Thanks for sharing.
This is one of THOSE videos that will be an excellent video for all of RUclips, for refurbishing an old 4 jaw chuck... Great Job...! and definingly time well spent....!
"Machine tool heal thyself!" Really interesting and impressive video.
Luke 14:23 🙂
Brilliant job,never seen a chuck grinder before but yes it works,I love the idea of repairing a good solid chuck and not just buying new and discarding a good workhorse chuck that will last a lifetime,that to me is point of best practice engineering,now a retired machine tool setter operator from across the pond,I certainly will be watching your videos now,It brings fond memories of a job I enjoyed everyday of my life,God bless sir I look forward to your posts
I would say that is important maintenance. Neat to watch. Thanks Keith
Nice job diagnosing the issues and working them out. Good work.
It’s been a year or two since i last watched a video, good video and well done with getting healthier Kieth. Amazing job!
That was a master class on how to properly apply true-up/diagnostic processes on an old piece of equipment. Perfect example of working out from the spindle of the lathe. Thank you for sharing the journey Keith.
You have got to be kidding!
@@garybrenner6236 - no. not kidding. Was a very thorough process. You not happy with it that is fine. I enjoyed it.
Nice job. I am not a machinist but surprised you would not grind those jaws loaded. In the end it came out great.
Good observation for not being a machinist, when turn or grinding chuck jaws they should always be loaded/clamped. This insures they are ridgid for the cutting operation and more importantly under the same stress as when they are used. This will greatly increase accuracy.
@@gregolson1824 Well I was even thinking to remove chatter. But in the end he got it done.
@@richmccabe2902 There is no load on them when grinding. And they can be flipped around to grip from the inside so preloading them would probably not help overall.
I love the problem diagnosis and rectification processes.
I worked with a worn out chuck for over 20 years. As long as I never changed the set-up I was ok. Haveing this to help me all those years to go sure would have helped a lot. Awesome post Keith, Where were you 25 years ago, LOL.
Keith, I can feel your frustration. It's another one of those "I want to do "A", but I can't because it requires that "B" be fixed (or changed) first. Aaahhhhhh, but "B" requires that "C" be fixed first. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!! Way too often do I find myself in this kind of situation. Grrrrrrr!!!!!!
The information you're putting out there for posterity is priceless.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Big job, Well done Keith, good for another 50 yrs.
I’m blown away. 😢 adjust studs and or grind id taper on back plate to seat.
Thank you for allowing people to see a craftsman at work, very relaxing viewing, nice to see the foreman keeping an eye on things in the background as well.
Keith - suggest you mark the mounting position. e.g. the face plate to the lathe. Therefore a 90-degree mounting plate does not interject an error.
Well done, that was quite a side project. The precision is admirable!
Glad it worked out. I too was a little worried when you grouind the jaws while not in tension but it came out decent. Nice one.
Very cool.
9:30 you can really see the runout on the headstock side of the back plate......
all the way down in Orlando.........this is a wonderful explanation on getting
your runout out.......PB
First view and a first comment, it’s a good day. About to go drive six hours round trip to pick up a No. 3 Canton Crane for $750, gonna be a heck of a day. No i will not be turning it into a hanging chair holder. It’ll get used to lift material to and from the big old 1919 Fay and Scott patternmakers gap bed lathe (11’ between centers with the bed fully extended) that’s in my shop. It’ll also get put to use moving big machine tables about, so I can get into the guts of the of the machines in the shop when needed. Someday I’ll have a big jib crane like Keith does, but this will do just fine for now. And just for reference, I’m 28 years of age. Fun to be a young person using really old machines and tools to make chairs (you guessed it! I’m a chairmaker).
Update: The crane is loaded up, tied down, and I’m east bound and down, loaded up and trucking back to seacoast NH where it will live forever in my shop, or until I die, whichever comes first.
Sounds like a great score... good travels to you👍
Nice work Keith. Love seeing these repair/maintenance videos. Always educational.
thanks for the education
Maintaining tools ... and you have so many of them. Great to see the hoist being used again with the lathe, it just proved how needed those efforts were worth.
Some days we work in the shop and some days we work on the shop.
I wonder when he is going to work on the Stoker Engine!
Thanks Keith for the video. I not a betting man but I bet that someone in the past swap a jaw out on the chuck. Nice job on trueing the chuck up.
I have folloved many machinist pros and I have noticed that when grind the chuck jaws you have to preload them with inner or outher ring - depend on what grind - there normaly is some slak in the sliding groves... hope it will go for a long time.
Absolutely what I expected, if it’s broken, you should fix it. In the bustling era we are in, repairing and maintaining the tooling is in many cases a R&R with new. To show how to troubleshoot and correct the problem is far more important than to just replace. Besides there is little satisfaction in just replacing when modifying is possible. Two thumbs waiving at you Keith!
I wish I knew half of what you probable already forgot Keith!!!! Great Job of showing how to fix that problem !!!!
Thanks for the video! l appreciate you showing how to get more accuracy from your tooling. What impressed me most about this video is that having the tools available meant all that was required was the time to do it. KOKO!
This is what it is all about, IMHO. Fixing and refurbishing vintage machinery and equipment.
outstanding job recycling that chuck and making it almost like new! I found a box long ago marked toolpost grinder, I'm going to have to investigate that now.
This old chuck must have been very well manufactured and tempered/hardened to be so dinged up and still have good tolerances after your truing process. Very satisfying to watch!
It make me feel good to see someone else who takes the time to fix things rather then go buy new stuff that's most likely not made with the quality the older stuff is made.
That's the problem with the younger generation and it's not thier fault. They were raised in a culture of the throw away stuff and we were raised in a time of fix what you have mostly because we couldn't afford to go out and buy new things. We were raised when there was a TV repair and radio repair in every town ,shoe repair ,appliance repair shops and the lists goes on an on. Now there's hardly any repair shops because of our throw away wasteful society.
Your Confidence is is what makes your work scare to watch and perfection to behold. From time to time i have to tighten my jaw and look away.
Great Process, Way to start from the foundation and work your way out.
Thanks. Interesting practical project.
I greatly admire your patience, Keith. I had some much more minor struggles with a much smaller chuck earlier this week, and I might have used some adult language during the process. 😊
seen its better days" heck that ol chuck is going through its best days now! with a owner like keith it will be use properly and well cared for from now on! nice work keith!!
Machine maintenance and calibration important. I'm going to double check the chucks on my machines.
Enjoyed the rejuvenation project!
Great Video! I would bet that the one Jaw that was off may well have come from a different chuck! you just never know what to expect with really old gear!
Nice recovery Keith!
Awesome seeing all the steps and thought process that went into truing this chuck up.
That was beautiful.
I don't know why but this video was very satisfying to watch. I think it's the thought of taking an almost useless tool and giving it a new life. That Chuck will serve you well for the rest of your life and maybe longer for the next owner. It's so satisfying to have the tools and skills to accomplish that.
Thank you again for sharing these videos with us.
Keith, when tightening bolts "on a circle" it's always good to tighten them not in "going around" fashion but "going across" way. Like, here it'd be "top-bottom-left-right", not "12-3-6-9". Certainly not a matter of life or death, but it'll help to tighten things evenly.
Also, somehow this "side job" was more captivating than the "proper one", i.e. the brake drums. Cheers.
Keith, thank you for all of the information you provided during this video.
Looks really nice! Made back when things were made to last, and this thing is lasting thanks to a little TLC!
Great Job refurbishing the chuck. It's always better to repair then buying an expensive replacement.
All making sense but why didnt you protect the bed of your lathe. Grinding material do grind the bed too.
But your grinding work is very nice
And cool that you mentioned this at the end of your video. 😊
Rather than eyeballing those rings, I would have used the centering plug to find the machine's center and spaced them exact inches from center using the lathe's metrology.
Taking about 2 hours to save hundreds or thousands is a very good wage.
Keith, jumped over here from your Brake Drum fun......always great the information you share,
best regards from Orlando, Paul
So many variables to consider.
Thank you for sharing.👍
I had a lathe and a good chuck, and it was not behaving like that. What I found was swarf just a single slice was in the threads. Yes threads. Once out the chuck trued. I think you are on to the issue here. I think the lathe needs to be verified and work outward. I suspect it is for another lathe. And I've seen jaws in stacks and chucks flat stacked feet tall. Surplus guys don't do us right all of the time. I take off my compound and put my tool post grinder on it. Yes, one loses flexibility but one doesn't always need it.
Nice video, I would have liked to see the chuck body on the surface plate to measure a few things, and I would have liked to see the face plate held in the jaws just for a quick check after grinding. great video and that chuck sure posed a bit of a challenge to figure out. Wonder how it got that way, maybe someone changed a single jaw at one time? cheers!
ALWAYS cover your ways when grinding. It’s easy and cheap insurance, and just good practice. Sure, you can always clean up afterwards and hope nothing gets where it shouldn’t, but why even need the follow up steps. Have a sheet of rubber or something similar to lay over the ways when grinding.
I have an old 1906 5 Step Cone Lathe with an 18” 4-Jaw Chuck but I’ve been wanting to true up the face and jaws so you releasing a video of the process is a godsend for me to use as a reference.
I was extremely hesitant to tackle this but you broke it down logically and went over each point where the runout could originate which cleared up my doubts on continuous procrastination for tackling.
My lathe spindle has a large 4TPI external thread which is was wondering if it might pose any unique challenges since I swap out for my 8” 6-jaw?
Glad the Shaw slots turned out to be ok (but it would have been interesting to see how they could have been trued up). Thanks for the video.
Awesome video!! Thank you again Keith, you are a real legend. Thank you for sharing all this amazing information
Just a few days ago I saw a couple of videos on "The Outback Shop" channel that showed a solution for setups to handle parallel surfaces with high accuracy. He has a video for making T-slot support bars, then, in his fly cutter video, he machines bolt on stand-offs (or risers) in place to get a 4 point reference surface that does not rely on the vagaries of worn jaws or jaw guides. It is a fair amount of extra work and the 4-jaw has to have T-slots or some other way to affix the stand-offs. In your case, you could use the pre-drilled holes in the chuck but that limits the placement of the supports to a specific diameter.
That grinder is terrifying -- and fabulous!
Another great video Keith. Thanks for sharing!
Nice job Keith!
Thanks Keith
Very cool. Using the tool to make itself more precise. I wonder if you had to undercut the steps in the jaw a little to account for whatever radius was on the corner of the grinding wheel.
great video kieth thx 4 sharing your systimatic procedure on how to true up a chuck problem. thumbs up .
Thank you Keith!
After careful consideration I think what happened was somebody had a large piece of material they were trying to put in the chuck and they struck the chuck very hard with a suspended piece of material like a battering ram and that's what caused it to be damaged.
Very interesting
Thanks for sharing these videos. I really appreciate it.
“The Practical Machinist”👏🏼
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the reminder that we have to do maintenance on our equipment to keep them running properly.
So cool. Thank you Keith. You earned my subscription.
Enjoyed the troubleshooting and resolution! Thanks.
Fantastic job Keith! Looks really good after you refurbished that chuck.
I know it must wear you out getting criticisms or critiques but as a Certified Auto Technician it makes me cringe when I see you torque down fasteners in a non crisscrossing pattern.
Anyways I am loving the extra videos you are able to put out now that you have “retired”.
Very interesting video thanks for posting .
Could you have put the ring in and clamped it, and then ground the jaws? Very nice detailed on how to fix this type of issue
I have learnt a lot and this will be a great help for me in the future.
Maybe it was bent by a crash? I probably would have checked the tracks for straightness after truing up the backing plate didn't work. Make sure it's something that can be saved before spending all day on it. From there, the first thing I'd do is shim in true to the rails and face the front, so that when you put on the faceplate you're machining it true to the jaws.
Nice job! That took a lot of thinking, consideration and patience 😅
Great video Keith .
Imagine that, a machine machining itself!
Make a better backplate, one that tightens without a shim to start.
Now on the less than the best solutions. Staying with the original backplate with shim... Check the lathe nose, see that it is not the problem. Clear the rust from all surfaces. Maybe use the granite to check these are correctly aligned. Then clamp the cleaned backplate, check it is not the problem. If there are problems at this point correct them.
Nevermind doing this correctly, going back to first principles, pick an interim place to start, work from there. Your choice for some reason.
I'm sure that all these steps were in your mind while thinking this over, you can not have just unlearned all that you know.
it's already fixed what are you whining about?
@@briand01 well, as you say, by the time any of us see this it is already done... through the magic of video done 4-5 weeks before in fact. So what are YOU going on about. You heard whine when a simple comment was made, so be it. Beware the trolls!
Loved it! Okay, back to the other video!
Well Keith got a good video out of this problem.
Taking lemons and making lemonade.
Fascinating. I did wonder why you did not put the chuck on a milling machine and mill the slots out that the jaws ran in but there must be a reason. Be good to see the first item re machined on the refurbished chuck at the end to see how much came off it.
Thanks for showing us a real interesting job. If you had too I wonder how you would re-machine the ways that the jaws run in?