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If you're having trouble with gauge, you can always make a different size. If you're knitting too tightly, nothing says you can't make a sweater that's a size larger, and remove a pattern repeat so it's not too long. You're making something custom, and what the designer created might not be perfect for you even if you get the gauge right. Their idea of a size 40 and your idea of a size 40 might not line up. The right gauge is the gauge that you think looks best, and leads to a piece that fits you well.
Not a great knitter, but I get the best needle size for my knitting the pattern and the wool, then recalculate the no of stitches. Back in the day you could get 1/4 size needles and that helped a lot. I wish I had kept them.
I still have some cabled and straight 1/4 sizes needles. Been knitting for 60 years and never have enough needles😊 If people in your area do yard and garage sales there could be some there. Or the Thrift Stores.
I learn so much from your videos and really appreciate your messages about the imperfections that are inherent in any handmade creative process ... "you are not a robot or a knitting machine"
What a great discussion! You hit all that is important! Explaining techniques and pitfalls, PLUS the importance of understanding that no handmade product will be machine perfect in the end. Thank you! I love your Chanel!
I so much appreciate how you emphasize frogging as being part of the process--it makes me feel so much less intimidated by learning new techniques and trying to improve my knitting. Thanks for these! :)
I like this video! I have one more suggestion: I make scrupulous swatches, including cast on, cast off, selvage stitches, cables, and the like. I test at least three needle sizes, based on what the pattern or yarn label suggest and then one size smaller, one size bigger. But I’m not trying to get gauge-I’m looking for the best fabric and enjoyment of knitting. I can always rework the math to make the pattern fit my preferred gauge, but I’m getting too old to waste my time creating fabric for a pattern when I have tested a fabric with better hand and more enjoyable to knit. I find there’s a sweet spot where yarn meets needles meets gauge, and the fabric is gorgeous. I knit because of pleasure, not for gauge. I learned how to rewrite patterns because I’ve always been a big gal. When I was young, size 14 (I was a 20+) was a chubby size, and I found no plus sized patterns, so I figured out how to make the pattern suit me, and not the other way around. Try something easy to modify, you’ll get the hang of it. Own your craft, and if it’s not fun, stop and modify until it’s fun again.
Norman, you have really helped me today. I have been knitting most of my life; I understand the importance of getting gauge, especially for garments that need to fit. I know all the ways to change gauge. But despite my best efforts, I knit an entire sleeve, blocked it, dried it and THEN decided it was going to be too small. I was very sad thinking of frogging a whole sleeve. The pattern has set-in sleeves and lots of cables, mixed with stockinette stitch. So measuring gauge accurately is very difficult. But your show helped me to realize that it’s okay to start over, and it’s okay that there is a certain amount of just doing your best to meet gauge, then trying on the garment as you go, and making adjustments as necessary. I feel much better now. Thank you for your wonderful show.
After a few weeks of learning how to knit, I wanted to start my first sweater. No matter how many swatches I made, how many different needle sizes I tried, I could never seem to get gauge. I felt like a failure, like I wasn't good enough at knitting, like I would never be able to create a garment. You telling me that it's a testament to my unique creativity, is exactly what I needed. You also reminded me that frogging isn't a failure, it's an invaluable learning opportunity. This video is so encouraging. Thank you!
also, if you knit in the round...either mutliple DPNs or Magic Loop on a circular....to avoid the ladders, use the walking method....either save the last stitch of the row to transfer over to become the first stitch on the next needle....or you can do the opposite, work the first stitch of the next needle to become the last stitch of the previous.....both methods require a stitch marker at the beginning of the row so you don't lose it....but walking the stitch can help you adjust tension to avoid laddering
In order to avoid using stitch markers I knit a few stitches with the previous dpn and then transfer those stitches on the fifth dpn and then continue knitting with it! I takes a bit more time but you don't have to worry about the beginning of your round!
Oh Norman, Thank you again for a great explanation/instruction video. I am in the middle of the first socks I have ever knitted with fingering weight yarn (always used DK before). I carefully knit a swatch and got gauge on the needle size I was trying. But now that I am more than half way through the first sock, my gauge is much smaller. And now, thanks to your video I can identify the two problems with my swatch: I did it flat in the traditional manner AND I used Karbonz needles for the swatch but switched to the same size in metal circular for the actual sock. Double whammy. Now I know your wonderful idea for knitting a flat swatch without turning and purling every other row AND to watch for subtle needle size/texture differences (i.e. stay with the exact needle you swatched with). I do like a number of other knitting channels on RUclips and I usually get useful information from most of them but you have the best detail videos which work best for me when I am struggling with something.
Okay, why did I never think to stick to the same yarn base that works successfully with my knitting style? This simple suggestion has been overlooked in my craft. Thank you for the common sense. There is definitely yarn that seems to never “turn out” and those that do. Thank you for the suggestion!
I am a perfectionist and get so overwhelmed by gauge swatching, even watching this video was a little stressful 😅 I really appreciated your wrap up, I do find it reassuring, sometimes I feel like a bad knitter if I dont swatch. But I am very willing to frog and adjust as I knit, I think I just need to try some different methods until I find one that works for me.
Well explained and detailed! Thank you. One thing to remember when gauging and blocking I’ve just learned as a beginner is to measure the before and afters. Which means measure before you wash and after you wash and dry, measure before blocking and after blocking, and especially measure before doing the hang with a tiny weight and after to really see how much difference exists. Good job! Happy knitting from Montreal, Quebec, Canada!
Also, your own personal tension will change throughout your lifetime. Most people start loose as beginners, and tighten up over time. Then there are issues like I have, where I've developed joint pain and have begun to knit more loosely. So this tendency to change can affect you a lot if you have a large WIP that you've been working on and off over a long period of time.
Really? I always thought that most people start very tight because they are very stressed, nervous, frustrated etc. and it affects their movements. It more of an anecdata, most people I talked to were very tight knitters and crocheters at the beginning. But I don't know, I wouldn't be surprised if I had been completely wrong.
I started out both Very tight because I couldn't get remotely consistent results unless I garotted the needle/hook for every stitch. I had to wear bandaids on my pointer finger where the yarn was tensioned because it would end up rubbing my skin raw. As I got more experienced, I was able to loosen up and still achieve consistent tension.
@@holeanta I definitely started out as a tight knitter, or, to be more precise, as a very beginner knitter, the practice pieces got tighter as I worked initially - I still knit to a fairly tight tension, but it is at least consistent now.
Thank you for the practical tutorial, Norman. After this lesson, I will feel more confident in my next knitting project. Love your thorough instructions and helpful tips!
I tried your suggestion to do my ribbing for a hat with smaller needles. I'm making a hat for a charity project, and am now on hat number 90. The ribbing suggestions you made have really helped me. So the ribbing is on size 6 US, and the remainder is on size 8 US. The hat looks so nice. Trying to keep the knitting closer to the tips on the ribbing made a difference, too. Thanks!
Norman thank you! What an excellent overview on gauge; what can go wrong; how to adjust. Your videos have helped me become a better knitter. It is so good to hear all the inconsistencies in yarn/needles/tension make knitting an art form not just a craft.
Thank you so much for making my knitting process easier! Obtaining gauge has been so problematical for me, but you have eased the stress, thus making knitting more enjoyable!
So glad that you mentioned needle size is not always the same depending on company/brand. As for gauge, sometimes I knit tighter due to stress. When relaxed my knitting is much different. Excellent recommendations. Thank you.
So clear and I love how you first describe the "perfect" scenario and then all the variables that can make the perfect impossible. And then you give so much encouragement and reassurance - so great for a beginner like me.
PS: Great tip on sticking with the yarn that works best for me! That will help stop me from buying yarn simply because I fell in love with the color or softness. Not all yarns work the same. I have seen this happen with my friend who spins her own yarn. She has so much wool that she has several large plastic bins to organize her wool that she bought on impulse. It's too easy to get carried away when shopping.
This is so helpful! I had no idea that others struggled with gauge as I do or that there are so many variables and options to try. This will help me move forward on projects rather than becoming frustrated. Many Thanks!
Norman, I am in awe of the amount of experience (practice, exploration and time) you bring to your sharing. It is truly astounding! Your expertise is such a gift. Thank you!
Great instructions as always !! I love swatiching new yarns. I have a box full of them and i love going through them. They often prevented me from buying expensive yarn (I buy one ball/skein and swatch first) after swatching and not liking how it would knit up. The onley thing I didn't like was the swatching in the round method carring the yarn in the back untill I came acrouss a video from Jameson's and smith were they break the yarn after every round, love that ! With that a use an edge form Patty Lions; start with 2 stiches knit through the back loop and then one purl and do the same with the last 3 stitches.
I really, REALLY love that you have thought through all the same considerations/questions that I have asked myself about all the variables that really are inherent in the swatching process - and you also have ANSWERS to those questions! I feel SEEN! Thank you for posting this.
I consider this the most useful knitting video I have seen to date. Your explanations and calculations made so much sense to me! Thank you for your thoughtful exploration of gauge differences.
Thank you for all of your helpful tips. I particularly like the idea of getting familiar with a few yarn bases so that you are not having to constantly swatch. :)
Thank you Norman - I was referred to this video from someone in my group because I was having trouble getting gauge and needle material and needle size are two of my biggest challenges. Depending on the type of wool/yarn, I sometimes use wood and sometimes use metal. I've started a separate notebook for the variables, the yarn, the gauge etc and attach the swatch to my notes on that project. Your explanations and encouragement are invaluable.
I'm one of those weird knitters who are fairly obsessed with gauge. Ive been known to take as long as 2 weeks to get gauge. I change EVERYTHING EXCEPT MYSELF. Norman is so thorough and I love that so much.
I am so grateful for this, as you have answered so many questions I’ve had for YEARS, and arrived (through pure logic) at the conclusion I suspected…you just must do your best with gauge and keep in mind that being off by just a little could result in error. You must then try your garment on as you go (or invest in a mannequin!) and measure it that way!
Thank you Norman! I’m a professional baker and you are so right about the comparison. I can read a recipe and tell if it will work or not. I hope to get that good at knitting patterns. Your tutorials are paving the way.
I knit from vintage patterns and enjoy the sizing up process. I do not enjoy faffing around with tension. I work it out roughly and start knitting, usually a sleeve, checking the number of stitches to see whether they will give me the measurements I need. I can usually adjust at that very early stage adding or subtracting stitches rather than frogging.
Thank you, Norman, for this great video. So informative. And I love that you talk about weighting the fitted projects as well. I'm a new(ish) knitter. I took it up during the early part of the Covid pandemic and went down the rabbit hole and never looked back. After many smaller projects, I'm working my first sweater gauge swatches now, and this was very helpful, as are all your videos. Keep up the wonderful work!
Thank you so much for your positivity! I appreciate you saying that it's not a problem with my knitting but a celebration of my creativity and uniqueness.
It amazes me how much difference can I get just by changing the tension and not the needles. Of course there is a limit but it is huge and also discovering that the yarn type also helps with that. Also realizing that not always I have to use the recomended yarn for a project depending on my way of knitting. Just a lot of try and error i guess. I like your channel thanks!
Hi Norman. I've discovered your knitting tutorial sites and am loving your direct and informative instructions. I also love your humour. I have told friends about your site who are interested in learning more about knitting as your tutorials are so direct and simple to follow. I also love your positive comments about knitters not being machines and being individuals. People who are critical about their own efforts because they expect the picture perfect result that an experienced knitter has done, have a hard time accepting that it is all a learning experience. I can't tell you how many times I've had to take apart something, or rip it all out and start over, and each time I do, I learn something more, whether it's about me being impatient, or using the wrong needles, yarn, etc......it's all a learning curve. I have learned to always do a test swatch. I can get the number of stitches by a smaller or larger needle depending on the thickness of the yarn I want to use, but I've never been able to get the number of rows the same. So I decided not to worry about it, but to use the finished measurements and my own body measurements as the guide as to how many more rows or less rows to knit. It works and I admit to feeling satisfaction in making a decision of my own and not comparing with the original gauges set by the designer of the pattern. I too have noticed the differences in needle dimensions and yarn thicknesses even though the manufacturer claims it is a #4 weight yarn, sometimes I've had to treat it as a #3 weight or a #5 weight. It's all fun to experiment with and each project, each yarn or pattern is a test of my ability to go with the flow or make changes. I love to create and each of my 'creations' are uniquely my own. I think that's the fun of it all. My Mom taught me how to knit the English throw method, and my first project was a pair of woollen socks......I know.....why start with socks or juggling all those slippery steel needles......they were so tight in tension that you could barely get a needle into a stitch.....my Mom saw them and we agreed to tear them out and start over. I confess, she finished them up as I had thrown up my hands and needles, in frustration. Lol. As time has passed and different projects started, finished, or torn out and the yarn repurposed, I have found my comfort zone with my knitting. Currently I have 6 sweaters on the go. When I tire of looking at one type of yarn, I switch to another project and along the way, they will all get finished. I've discovered hygge yarn which is lovely to work with and makes a lovely soft finished garment. I've also begun a sweater for a son who wanted 100% wool. Interesting yarn to work with. That's all I will say about that. Thanks for your efforts in teaching us all the nuances and skills of knitting. It has broadened my knowledge and horizons in creating fabric with yarn.
Norman, It has to be said, you are amazing. You have blown my mind with this. I understand gauge far better now and the many variables. Thank you so so much.
Swatches are really valuable. I keep all my swatches with the yarn labels attached. It gives me a resource for repairs. It’s also handy if I decide to knit a pattern again - I can see exactly what I used before. It’s a starting point for gauge if I use the same yarn again - instead of starting from scratch, I can start with the needle size I used last time. If a garment has a lace, colourwork or cable, I make second swatch of that to practice it and to see how my gauge is going to change. I keep them all in a recipe box attached to a recipe card where I can make notes about the yarn. I have noticed that if I leave a swatch lying around for a couple of weeks after blocking, they often change again, so I don’t start the project right away.
I consider myself a relatively experienced knitter, but I am also quite impulsive and forgetful. So I often forget what needle I used after having finished with the swatch. The tip about adding eyelets is brilliant! Thank you, Norman!
Dearest Norman. I have seen many people and channels, but I love and respect what you do. I like how you engage with people and reply to most messages. It makes me feel as if I knew you personally. I want to invite you a cuppa to say 'danke schon'.
@@NimbleNeedles Norman, keine Sorge. Ich wollte nur meine Transaktion überprüfen. Ich habe es auf meinem Bankkonto gefunden. einen schönen rest von 2022. die besten wünsche für 2023.
Happy to hear that cheryl. Especially as it's such an important message. For me knitting is about individuality and not doing what everyone else does 🥰
I am going to try these tips. I know knitting a gauge swatch is important, but I don't like doing it. Often my swatch doesn't match my finished project. I am planning to start a new project with a yarn and pattern new to me, so I can test out these new ideas. I have a list in my phone of my particular gauge and size of needles I used for my favorite and most used yarns.
You are so knowledgeable! I am simply going to jump off a cliff now and end the stress of attaining perfect gauge! 😂 seriously, I will be coming back to this vid as I become more experienced and can absorb your recommendations. It is so rich! thank you.
I just watched your video about getting gauge. It was very good and a lot of thought to consider. My big issue is that I swatch using various needles and yarn. I end up with different swatches. I pick the swatch that gives me a fabric I really like that is typically different to the designer's gauge. I find just changing needle sizes or materials doesn't work. You are right in saying that gauge is just an illusion. If the pattern is easy enough to make adjustments, I will do it.
It's important to do the swatch even if you've used the yarn before because sometimes different coloured yarn will give a different gauge. This is to do with the type and amount of dye used for each colour. Different colours will also affect the feel of the yarn. I find dark colours are a little stiffer than lighter coloured yarn. Over 100 stitches or more for a sweater this can actually change the garment size.
you are right there. Some dyes, especially when they are overdyed will kind of bloat up the fibers...and when you mix that with an undyed yarn it can be a problem. However, in my experience, it won'T really change your gauge. It will just change the appearance/density
Great video. Very informative and helpful to me with my tension troubles!! After years of fretting over how to get perfect tension (gauge) I have become aware of the differences made to my knitting by things like metal versus wooden needles and how my knitting relaxes as I progress through a project, particularly when sweater or cardigan knitting. So I'm measuring more and comparing sizes with jumpers and cardigans I already have that fit well and finding these techniques helpful in ending up with something I want to wear. Your video was very reassuring. 😍
Thank you for this video. It was most informative and helpful. I often wonder about accuracy and now feel better and more confident to apply your strategies. Appreciate you sharing your expertise.
Informative as always. Whilst it could be time consuming I really like the idea of doing different swatches with knots in the tail for future reference. Like yourself I am trying to find a range of yarns that suits me, I often find the cheaper yarns work well 😀 I am also going to start blocking for reference to. Thank you 🙏
I love your passion for knitting. Let me help you with the word, "variable." In the USA we say var- ee- able, with the stressed syllable being "var." I'm sure you speak many more languages than I do, so I hope you see this as a kind gesture, not as nit- picking (which I wish related to knitting).
these tips are always welcome if they come from a place of kindness and a genuine wish to help :) My personal biggest issue is that, even tho it seems like this was one continuous take, it rarely is. And then, sometimes the phone rings, and I need to speak in German (or so), and then it's back to recording the video and that really messes with your mind - especially as there are so many words that very or totally similar (but with different pronouncation). variable is one of them...it's variabel in German ;-)
Hi Norman. You're looking very handsome and dapper with your new haircut; am also loving the Winter village scene on the round table behind you. Would like to take a moment to wish you an amazing and inspiring Holiday as we all journey towards 2022 together. So many knitters want to jump right into the fun stuff instead of taking a little time to gauge and to continually check their gauge as they knit. Have seen quite a few knitting bloggers who don't know why the sleeves on their project came out too short; or their sweater collar is misshapen like a boat neck. It's because they didn't gauge their needle size, yarn and tension before they started! You're spot on!
yah...that winter village is delighting me every day...it's 100% kitsch but that's what you need aruond xmas, isn't it. And glad to hear you appreciate my efforts! :)
Oh my goodness this has me more confused than ever. I think I may have to watch this several more times. I'm grateful for the lady where I shop who assists me with my knitting and you Norman for the assistance you provide.
I stumbled upon your blog when knitting an entrelac scarf. I am not a new knitter, but I have many things yet to learn. One of the tips I was looking for was tidy edges for the entrelac scarf. You really explained it well and I decided to look up your videos. Love them! One of the things I did as a new knitter was buying used yarn, working different stitches and learning what I liked and felt comfortable with. I learned I wanted to be challenged as a new knitter. I started off with lace and entrelac, haha. But... I am always searching now for ways to improve and clean up my stitches. I really want to knit a sweater and gauge is what has stopped me from doing that. Long story short, your video really has put me at ease. Thank you
As usual, amazing tips 😀 thank you for all your work, Norman❤ as for knitting tension, fortunately it is possible and not that hard. I had extreme difference between my knit and purl tension, the purl rows were waaaay larger than knit ones. I was desperate to improve that and after one sweater and focusing on tightening every stitch, my purls became nice and even and now I don't have to focus anymore on the tension. I guess that the instant gratification of seeing nice stitches did the job!
Thanks for another informative video! For the 'in-the-round' swatch I think it might be Patty Lyons who suggests twisting the first and last stitch. You can then keep the edges fairly neat and the slack doesn't run into the adjacent stitches. I use this a lot, and it's pretty satisfying. I've also heard of people putting a swatch in their pocket and carrying it around for a few weeks to see how it changes - I'm not sure I'd have the patience for that, but it makes sense.
oh..i didnt know that trick yet. gotta try it! as for exposn the swatch to wear and tear. I guess it makes sense but in a way I feel it's trying to perfect a system that cannot be perfect. So...i'm more the, stitck to a yarn base you know how it works kind of guy.
I wish you had in presence classes. Watching videos are useful for sure, but being educated by a proffessional with actual working pieces is something that cannot be replaced by online lessons. Cheers dear Norman!
Hi Norman. Great video! This is such an interesting and oftentimes frustrating topic. I am always so impressed with myself because I knit gauge swatches but then I deflate rather quickly as I struggle, lol! I was making a pair of socks a while back and tried 4 different sizes ranging from 2.75 mm down to 1.5 mm and basically kept getting the same gauge! I did my swatch in the round by sliding it from one end to the other as you showed in the video. I finally gave up and chose the size that was easier to work with because I was more interested in the technique than the actual fit. And recently I did 2 gauge swatches on a potential project using 5.5 to 6.5 mm and the same thing happened. I frogged it and decided not to even make the project. Not worth the aggravation. Right now I’m having fun crocheting a cute sparkly Christmas stocking! You’re thought on this subject are extremely helpful. Everything you say makes perfect sense. I am going to rewatch this video a few times. Thanks for sharing your insight on this topic! Very much appreciated! As a side note, I love your scarf, light fixture and holiday decor! Very festive! Thanks Norman. Have an awesome week!😊
Can u tell I love xmas? 😅 And yeah...gauge can be so tricky and in these cases I feel it's much better to stick with measuring, if u ask me. Enjoy your holiday season, thea 😊🥰
Thanks for another really helpful video! If I had to choose only 3 knitting channels to watch, you would be one of them. That's the closest I can get to choosing a favorite, LOL. Thanks for all your work.
Hi Norman, as I have already mentioned, I am having difficulties counting the stitches and rows of my guage swatch because it is knitted in black yarn. I have heard of a running marker, using a different colour yarn and wondered whether you would like to make a video of it, showing the rest of us how to do it. I'm sure it would prove useful to a lot of people. There are other videos teaching it but they don't teach as clearly as you ❤😁🙏
hm....these methods really are not meant for swatches. So a running marker or stitch holders all these kinda things won't really helpp you. Plus they will distort the fabric and your gauge. bright Daylight is typically best for counting stitches in black yarn.
You are just the best! Just exactly the video I needed. Your attitude to knitting is fantastic. I love your practical, helpful advice. Thank you. I'll buy you a coffee ☕
Very useful tips. I especailly appreciated the tip about different material or shapes of needles to get gauge, sure will try that, I also find some wools vary a lot in row gauge which can be important for raglan shaping, for example. I have also seen my gauge change as I was knitting, either because I get more familiar with the pattern and relax, or because I knit with different lighting during day or night. I fixed that last problem by using a 5000 kevin light bulb, day or night. It helped a lot. Try as you knit is great when you knit for yourself, but much harder when you knit for someone who lives far away, I like to borrow a prefered garnment of that person to help in that case. ;-)
that's a very excellent tip you are adding here Nicole: borrow a well-fitting garment if you are knitting for someone else! thx for adding it (and I may have said it already, but always such a joy to see a familar face/name here in the comments, Nicole. so thank you for your continuing support!).
Norman, Will you ever show how to seam a sweater together. All videos I see just show the easy bits. Could you show us how it is done “in situ”? That would be real. Anybody can do the mattress stitch once they have started.The most difficult and very important part would be to learn how to actual start at the sleeves and at the body bottom. And I don’t know of any video showing close up of seaming in a clear, well explained way specially when one does or attempt a set-in sleeve and arm scythe assemblage. You explain knitting things in an intelligent, easier to remember way and your explanations make a lot of sense. I thank you for that.
Thank you again Norman. Your videos are so informative. This one gave me a lot to think about in terms of swatches and how to make my garments fit better!
Thanks for the great videos on knitting techniques. I’m returning to knitting after a long break and it’s been super helpful to both refresh and to learn new techniques. A video on techniques to “cast on across” and “pick up stitches” would be much appreciated. Thumbs on mitts are my winter challenge!
Great suggestions in this video, I just finished my first cardigan and it fits perfectly! I used many of your suggestions, especially since I had to adjust because of my own measurements. I did have a good pattern which brings me to a question: “ how do you know it’s a good pattern before you buy it? Is it mostly trial and error? I look at the reviews but you can’t always tell. Thank you Norman, I have learned so much from you!
well, first of all you can look at past projects on ravelry. That might help. if it's not the best pattern, some knitters will typically complain or add notes. Other than that, it's very hard to know really. But it should hav ebeen test-knitted and tech-edited.
the gauge on the label is ALWAYS AND WIHTOUT EXCEPTION wrong. You can use the same sock wool to knit gloves, socks, and a lace shawl but you will use different needle sizes for each. the right kind of gauge is the one you feel looks/works best. It's as simple as that. As a first inkling you can use the wrap per inch method (scroll all the way down here: nimble-needles.com/wool-and-tools/how-to-read-yarn-labels/)
As usual a very useful and important tutorial. But I can't stop wondering if we can get a closer look to that shawl you're wearing. I love it. And yeah I know there's sadly no pattern for it .. 😕
Well...it's like a simple rib stitch or so knitted with two different needles sizes and a fabulous cashmere yarn. Maybe I can write about it on my blog..
Very practical advice indeed...we knitters are NOT robots lol ! The pressure of 'getting gauge' has been a frustration for sure but I agree with you wholeheartedly that it is somewhat of an illusion...Love that you said it but also explained why...I measure throughout a project, and have even gone as far as going down a needle size for the purl row ! For instance, I'm knitting baby leggings and was super excited to get sts. per inch/ and even row gauge ! but guess what !? it all changed as I approached the top of the pants after the diaper compensation , heading toward the final waist ribbing...I thought oh well ! all these stitches need to taper anyway and will stretch plenty enough ! Luckily no huge difference this time but I never hesitate to rip back, change yarn or needle size if I can get close to gauge and am satisfied with the final fabric qualities of drape and size (which can be fleeting over the years) Ha !
I have been too afraid to knit a sweater and sit stunned when people say the knitted one it two weeks. Don’t the have a life? Don’t children or dogs demand feeding? Don’t you work? Anyway, your remark about sticking to a few specific yarns that you know, really hit me! All the other gauge things aside, this makes sense!
Thanks Norman! You are so precise it made me feel quite sloppy thinking about the way I just eyeball gauge! I'll try to be more precise but without going too crazy about it 🤗
well, Marta, do whatever works for you really. I present these kind of information so you can pick it if you need it...but if your system works out and it brings you joy, don't think of yourself as sloppy but rather efficent :)
Please, Norman, will you teach us about “reversing “ the gauge game? After knitting the swatch (and after blocking etc and loveing it) how do we measure the swatch and then figure out how to determine which pattern size to knit to fit OUR OWN gauge. Doing the math is the challenge. I have done this successfully several times but am far from confident! Thanks so much.
that's actually a very complicated question as it depends on sooo many different factors. not sure how I can help there in a video? What were you looking for?
@@NimbleNeedles yes, I understand that it would be extremely difficult to explain. But once it is understood, advanced knitter for sure, it is very freeing and useful. Thanks for your response!
@@janemarriott3389 i mean, i can put it on my list of video ideas but I am not really sure if I can get it across in a way other people would understand it. And that's my goal with all of my videos here. It's not always easy and always requires a lot of planing
About swatching : I never count how many stitches/rows to the 10cm, but put markers ( a bit of thin yarn does the job) to isolate a certain nr of stitches/rows (e.g. 40) and then, after blocking, measure to the millimeter how much that is, and than calculate how much this represent on 10cm. Much more accurate when working out my own designs or adaptations.
Hi Norman, great video! It was quite useful and I agree, it’s ok that you don’t get exact number of stitches as we are not a machine. It made me feel a bit better because I always felt pressured about gauge. Good brush up on knitting in the round gauge. Yep purls are usually looser. :) I’m currently making mittens and the pattern calls for sports weight yarn or a light DK. I think I’m using light DK yarn but it comes out a bit bigger than I wanted. I think I would decrease cast on for a few stitches for next pair. Btw, I love your scarf, it looks beautiful on you! Perhaps you could do tutorial on it? 🙂 Thanks for sharing your knowledge! 🌷
I love this so much! II think gauge swatches are both overrated and underrated - I find them soooo useful but not for 'meeting gauge' really. I also have a few more tips: 1. Bigger gauge swatches are better!! I know it takes more time, but your knitting tension isn't going to be totally even over the course of a whole sweater, or even one gauge swatch. I always make a swatch big enough that I can take 3 measurements in three different spots and then take the average of those measurements. 2. Measure your swatch both before and after blocking to understand how blocking can change the fabric! I did this for a sweater recently and learned that after blocking, the rows grew a lot in size. I then used this to adjust the length of the body and sleeves so that it would fit me well after blocking. 3. Think of your swatch like a tool. It's not 100% accurate, but you can use it for so many things! If you know that you have 20 stitches per 10cm for example, and you want your sweater to be 100cm in circumference, then you know roughly how many stitches you'll need to have on the needles. This can help you choose the right size in a pattern, because small, medium, large aren't always consistent! I hope these are helpful! :)
love these tips and I couldn't agree more...except maybe for the average thing. I know Cheryl Brunette is a proponent of it but...I would say that fractional stitches are a bit of a problem as you cannot knit them either and one should rather always measure full stitches (but maybe that is being a bit too accademic) But yeah, using it as a tool and not treating it like the bible really is the key :)
@@NimbleNeedles yes, it definitely doesn't always work, but sometimes gives me an idea of how much variation there is - which also helps me see if my tension is a bit uneven! But very true that fractional stitches can be a problem! I really think the best part of gauge swatches is being able to get a sense of what the fabric will be like. I've had times I've met gauge but the drape of the fabric just wasn't what I wanted at all. As I've gotten more comfortable adjusting patterns to suit me better, gauge swatches have become even more important for "previewing" the fabric! Maybe it's not a good thing but I just finished a cardigan where my gauge was totally "off" but I loved the fabric that it created, so I just knit a smaller size to accommodate that my gauge was off - and could check that the size would still fit me by calculating roughly how many cm the finished piece would be! This definitely isn't a science because tension can vary throughout a whole project (stress always makes me knit more tightly!) but it was cool to be able to do this :)
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I am not a robot nor a knitting machine, I'm an individual crafter expressing my personality! Thank you so much Norman for reminding me of that 💜💚🖤
an important insight! Glad I was able to remind you
If you're having trouble with gauge, you can always make a different size. If you're knitting too tightly, nothing says you can't make a sweater that's a size larger, and remove a pattern repeat so it's not too long. You're making something custom, and what the designer created might not be perfect for you even if you get the gauge right. Their idea of a size 40 and your idea of a size 40 might not line up. The right gauge is the gauge that you think looks best, and leads to a piece that fits you well.
Not a great knitter, but I get the best needle size for my knitting the pattern and the wool, then recalculate the no of stitches. Back in the day you could get 1/4 size needles and that helped a lot. I wish I had kept them.
I still have some cabled and straight 1/4 sizes needles. Been knitting for 60 years and never have enough needles😊 If people in your area do yard and garage sales there could be some there. Or the Thrift Stores.
I learn so much from your videos and really appreciate your messages about the imperfections that are inherent in any handmade creative process ... "you are not a robot or a knitting machine"
Perfection too is just a definition. And I prefer organic textures over 100% uniformity every day. 🥰
What a great discussion! You hit all that is important! Explaining techniques and pitfalls, PLUS the importance of understanding that no handmade product will be machine perfect in the end. Thank you! I love your Chanel!
I so much appreciate how you emphasize frogging as being part of the process--it makes me feel so much less intimidated by learning new techniques and trying to improve my knitting. Thanks for these! :)
I like this video! I have one more suggestion: I make scrupulous swatches, including cast on, cast off, selvage stitches, cables, and the like. I test at least three needle sizes, based on what the pattern or yarn label suggest and then one size smaller, one size bigger. But I’m not trying to get gauge-I’m looking for the best fabric and enjoyment of knitting. I can always rework the math to make the pattern fit my preferred gauge, but I’m getting too old to waste my time creating fabric for a pattern when I have tested a fabric with better hand and more enjoyable to knit. I find there’s a sweet spot where yarn meets needles meets gauge, and the fabric is gorgeous. I knit because of pleasure, not for gauge. I learned how to rewrite patterns because I’ve always been a big gal. When I was young, size 14 (I was a 20+) was a chubby size, and I found no plus sized patterns, so I figured out how to make the pattern suit me, and not the other way around. Try something easy to modify, you’ll get the hang of it. Own your craft, and if it’s not fun, stop and modify until it’s fun again.
Norman, you have really helped me today. I have been knitting most of my life; I understand the importance of getting gauge, especially for garments that need to fit. I know all the ways to change gauge. But despite my best efforts, I knit an entire sleeve, blocked it, dried it and THEN decided it was going to be too small. I was very sad thinking of frogging a whole sleeve. The pattern has set-in sleeves and lots of cables, mixed with stockinette stitch. So measuring gauge accurately is very difficult. But your show helped me to realize that it’s okay to start over, and it’s okay that there is a certain amount of just doing your best to meet gauge, then trying on the garment as you go, and making adjustments as necessary. I feel much better now. Thank you for your wonderful show.
After a few weeks of learning how to knit, I wanted to start my first sweater. No matter how many swatches I made, how many different needle sizes I tried, I could never seem to get gauge. I felt like a failure, like I wasn't good enough at knitting, like I would never be able to create a garment. You telling me that it's a testament to my unique creativity, is exactly what I needed. You also reminded me that frogging isn't a failure, it's an invaluable learning opportunity. This video is so encouraging. Thank you!
trust me Silke, I frog a lot, I too struggle with my gauge....yet here I am! :)
@@NimbleNeedles Thank you for the encouragement! :)
also, if you knit in the round...either mutliple DPNs or Magic Loop on a circular....to avoid the ladders, use the walking method....either save the last stitch of the row to transfer over to become the first stitch on the next needle....or you can do the opposite, work the first stitch of the next needle to become the last stitch of the previous.....both methods require a stitch marker at the beginning of the row so you don't lose it....but walking the stitch can help you adjust tension to avoid laddering
In order to avoid using stitch markers I knit a few stitches with the previous dpn and then transfer those stitches on the fifth dpn and then continue knitting with it! I takes a bit more time but you don't have to worry about the beginning of your round!
Oh Norman, Thank you again for a great explanation/instruction video. I am in the middle of the first socks I have ever knitted with fingering weight yarn (always used DK before). I carefully knit a swatch and got gauge on the needle size I was trying. But now that I am more than half way through the first sock, my gauge is much smaller. And now, thanks to your video I can identify the two problems with my swatch: I did it flat in the traditional manner AND I used Karbonz needles for the swatch but switched to the same size in metal circular for the actual sock. Double whammy. Now I know your wonderful idea for knitting a flat swatch without turning and purling every other row AND to watch for subtle needle size/texture differences (i.e. stay with the exact needle you swatched with). I do like a number of other knitting channels on RUclips and I usually get useful information from most of them but you have the best detail videos which work best for me when I am struggling with something.
Aww..thank you. And you know..sometimes mistakes too are needed so the lesson sticks 😊
Okay, why did I never think to stick to the same yarn base that works successfully with my knitting style? This simple suggestion has been overlooked in my craft. Thank you for the common sense. There is definitely yarn that seems to never “turn out” and those that do. Thank you for the suggestion!
it makes such a big difference - at takes away quite a lot of the alure of shopping more yarn ^^
Love your comment on “no knitting magically fit into a 10x10 square” and your videos are awesome.
I am a perfectionist and get so overwhelmed by gauge swatching, even watching this video was a little stressful 😅 I really appreciated your wrap up, I do find it reassuring, sometimes I feel like a bad knitter if I dont swatch. But I am very willing to frog and adjust as I knit, I think I just need to try some different methods until I find one that works for me.
Well explained and detailed! Thank you. One thing to remember when gauging and blocking I’ve just learned as a beginner is to measure the before and afters. Which means measure before you wash and after you wash and dry, measure before blocking and after blocking, and especially measure before doing the hang with a tiny weight and after to really see how much difference exists. Good job! Happy knitting from Montreal, Quebec, Canada!
Great tips!
That is a great idea! I will keep that in mind. :0)
Also, your own personal tension will change throughout your lifetime. Most people start loose as beginners, and tighten up over time. Then there are issues like I have, where I've developed joint pain and have begun to knit more loosely. So this tendency to change can affect you a lot if you have a large WIP that you've been working on and off over a long period of time.
Really? I always thought that most people start very tight because they are very stressed, nervous, frustrated etc. and it affects their movements. It more of an anecdata, most people I talked to were very tight knitters and crocheters at the beginning. But I don't know, I wouldn't be surprised if I had been completely wrong.
I started out both Very tight because I couldn't get remotely consistent results unless I garotted the needle/hook for every stitch. I had to wear bandaids on my pointer finger where the yarn was tensioned because it would end up rubbing my skin raw. As I got more experienced, I was able to loosen up and still achieve consistent tension.
@@holeanta I definitely started out as a tight knitter, or, to be more precise, as a very beginner knitter, the practice pieces got tighter as I worked initially - I still knit to a fairly tight tension, but it is at least consistent now.
Thank you for the practical tutorial, Norman. After this lesson, I will feel more confident in my next knitting project. Love your thorough instructions and helpful tips!
As always, it's a pleasure. And always paints a smile on my face when I see a familiar name here in the comments, vivian 😊🥰
I tried your suggestion to do my ribbing for a hat with smaller needles. I'm making a hat for a charity project, and am now on hat number 90. The ribbing suggestions you made have really helped me. So the ribbing is on size 6 US, and the remainder is on size 8 US. The hat looks so nice. Trying to keep the knitting closer to the tips on the ribbing made a difference, too. Thanks!
Norman thank you! What an excellent overview on gauge; what can go wrong; how to adjust. Your videos have helped me become a better knitter. It is so good to hear all the inconsistencies in yarn/needles/tension make knitting an art form not just a craft.
Thank you so much for making my knitting process easier! Obtaining gauge has been so problematical for me, but you have eased the stress, thus making knitting more enjoyable!
So glad that you mentioned needle size is not always the same depending on company/brand. As for gauge, sometimes I knit tighter due to stress. When relaxed my knitting is much different. Excellent recommendations. Thank you.
same here. it's sometimes a bit frustrating but that's what it is!
So clear and I love how you first describe the "perfect" scenario and then all the variables that can make the perfect impossible. And then you give so much encouragement and reassurance - so great for a beginner like me.
my pleasure! happy to be of service!
So daggone informative-things I NEVER thought about in terms of gauge or swatching! Ty for being sooooo thorough!!!
You r very welcome 😊
PS: Great tip on sticking with the yarn that works best for me! That will help stop me from buying yarn simply because I fell in love with the color or softness. Not all yarns work the same. I have seen this happen with my friend who spins her own yarn. She has so much wool that she has several large plastic bins to organize her wool that she bought on impulse. It's too easy to get carried away when shopping.
This is so helpful! I had no idea that others struggled with gauge as I do or that there are so many variables and options to try. This will help me move forward on projects rather than becoming frustrated. Many Thanks!
knitting should never make your frustrated but bring you joy! So feel free to come back any time in case you run into a problem :)
Norman, I am in awe of the amount of experience (practice, exploration and time) you bring to your sharing. It is truly astounding! Your expertise is such a gift. Thank you!
Great instructions as always !! I love swatiching new yarns. I have a box full of them and i love going through them. They often prevented me from buying expensive yarn (I buy one ball/skein and swatch first) after swatching and not liking how it would knit up. The onley thing I didn't like was the swatching in the round method carring the yarn in the back untill I came acrouss a video from Jameson's and smith were they break the yarn after every round, love that ! With that a use an edge form Patty Lions; start with 2 stiches knit through the back loop and then one purl and do the same with the last 3 stitches.
I really, REALLY love that you have thought through all the same considerations/questions that I have asked myself about all the variables that really are inherent in the swatching process - and you also have ANSWERS to those questions! I feel SEEN! Thank you for posting this.
OMG! This was the most practical video on gauge I've seen! It helped me improve my gauge immediately. thank you
oh wow...you are very welcome!
I consider this the most useful knitting video I have seen to date. Your explanations and calculations made so much sense to me! Thank you for your thoughtful exploration of gauge differences.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for all of your helpful tips. I particularly like the idea of getting familiar with a few yarn bases so that you are not having to constantly swatch. :)
It will save you so much troubles! (If you ask me)
Thank you Norman - I was referred to this video from someone in my group because I was having trouble getting gauge and needle material and needle size are two of my biggest challenges. Depending on the type of wool/yarn, I sometimes use wood and sometimes use metal. I've started a separate notebook for the variables, the yarn, the gauge etc and attach the swatch to my notes on that project. Your explanations and encouragement are invaluable.
Thank you. I was always frustrated at not making gauge after a few tries. This will help me want to keep trying!
I'm one of those weird knitters who are fairly obsessed with gauge. Ive been known to take as long as 2 weeks to get gauge. I change EVERYTHING EXCEPT MYSELF. Norman is so thorough and I love that so much.
I am so grateful for this, as you have answered so many questions I’ve had for YEARS, and arrived (through pure logic) at the conclusion I suspected…you just must do your best with gauge and keep in mind that being off by just a little could result in error. You must then try your garment on as you go (or invest in a mannequin!) and measure it that way!
glad I could reinforce your own beliefs!
Thank you Norman! I’m a professional baker and you are so right about the comparison. I can read a recipe and tell if it will work or not. I hope to get that good at knitting patterns. Your tutorials are paving the way.
Time and patience will solve most things - just like with a good bread 😅
I knit from vintage patterns and enjoy the sizing up process. I do not enjoy faffing around with tension. I work it out roughly and start knitting, usually a sleeve, checking the number of stitches to see whether they will give me the measurements I need. I can usually adjust at that very early stage adding or subtracting stitches rather than frogging.
Thank you, Norman, for this great video. So informative. And I love that you talk about weighting the fitted projects as well. I'm a new(ish) knitter. I took it up during the early part of the Covid pandemic and went down the rabbit hole and never looked back. After many smaller projects, I'm working my first sweater gauge swatches now, and this was very helpful, as are all your videos. Keep up the wonderful work!
Glad it was helpful! and I definitely plan to continue, Michael :)
And best of luck with your first sweater.
Thank you so much for your positivity! I appreciate you saying that it's not a problem with my knitting but a celebration of my creativity and uniqueness.
Thank you so very much. Hanging the swatch with small weights is a marvelous idea.!
you can even expose them too even more wear and tear and jank on them...or put them into your pocket for a day or two.
It is not obvious for a professional to understand a beginner so very good.
Thank you.
Your lesson is vary intributing for my work.
It amazes me how much difference can I get just by changing the tension and not the needles. Of course there is a limit but it is huge and also discovering that the yarn type also helps with that. Also realizing that not always I have to use the recomended yarn for a project depending on my way of knitting. Just a lot of try and error i guess. I like your channel thanks!
Hi Norman. I've discovered your knitting tutorial sites and am loving your direct and informative instructions. I also love your humour. I have told friends about your site who are interested in learning more about knitting as your tutorials are so direct and simple to follow. I also love your positive comments about knitters not being machines and being individuals. People who are critical about their own efforts because they expect the picture perfect result that an experienced knitter has done, have a hard time accepting that it is all a learning experience. I can't tell you how many times I've had to take apart something, or rip it all out and start over, and each time I do, I learn something more, whether it's about me being impatient, or using the wrong needles, yarn, etc......it's all a learning curve. I have learned to always do a test swatch. I can get the number of stitches by a smaller or larger needle depending on the thickness of the yarn I want to use, but I've never been able to get the number of rows the same. So I decided not to worry about it, but to use the finished measurements and my own body measurements as the guide as to how many more rows or less rows to knit. It works and I admit to feeling satisfaction in making a decision of my own and not comparing with the original gauges set by the designer of the pattern.
I too have noticed the differences in needle dimensions and yarn thicknesses even though the manufacturer claims it is a #4 weight yarn, sometimes I've had to treat it as a #3 weight or a #5 weight. It's all fun to experiment with and each project, each yarn or pattern is a test of my ability to go with the flow or make changes. I love to create and each of my 'creations' are uniquely my own. I think that's the fun of it all.
My Mom taught me how to knit the English throw method, and my first project was a pair of woollen socks......I know.....why start with socks or juggling all those slippery steel needles......they were so tight in tension that you could barely get a needle into a stitch.....my Mom saw them and we agreed to tear them out and start over. I confess, she finished them up as I had thrown up my hands and needles, in frustration. Lol. As time has passed and different projects started, finished, or torn out and the yarn repurposed, I have found my comfort zone with my knitting. Currently I have 6 sweaters on the go. When I tire of looking at one type of yarn, I switch to another project and along the way, they will all get finished.
I've discovered hygge yarn which is lovely to work with and makes a lovely soft finished garment. I've also begun a sweater for a son who wanted 100% wool. Interesting yarn to work with. That's all I will say about that.
Thanks for your efforts in teaching us all the nuances and skills of knitting. It has broadened my knowledge and horizons in creating fabric with yarn.
well, i have to thank YOU. not only for your very elaborated feedback but also for sharing my work with others. It is much appreciated!
I am a big fan of your work. Thanks, Norman. I’m learning a lot while trying to perfect my beginner skills in order to graduate to intermediate
awesome! patience and practise, as they say ;-)
Norman, It has to be said, you are amazing. You have blown my mind with this. I understand gauge far better now and the many variables. Thank you so so much.
Thank you! You not only gave me new thoughts about a gauge but also made me feel normal :)
well, I would say you are unique, Kathy. and that is totally normal :)
Very informative & I liked part 3 the best about gauge being an illusion. Keep up these amazing videos!
Swatches are really valuable. I keep all my swatches with the yarn labels attached. It gives me a resource for repairs. It’s also handy if I decide to knit a pattern again - I can see exactly what I used before. It’s a starting point for gauge if I use the same yarn again - instead of starting from scratch, I can start with the needle size I used last time. If a garment has a lace, colourwork or cable, I make second swatch of that to practice it and to see how my gauge is going to change. I keep them all in a recipe box attached to a recipe card where I can make notes about the yarn. I have noticed that if I leave a swatch lying around for a couple of weeks after blocking, they often change again, so I don’t start the project right away.
thesse are some gorgeous tips you, Beth. thx for sharing them here with us!
I consider myself a relatively experienced knitter, but I am also quite impulsive and forgetful. So I often forget what needle I used after having finished with the swatch. The tip about adding eyelets is brilliant! Thank you, Norman!
Dearest Norman. I have seen many people and channels, but I love and respect what you do. I like how you engage with people and reply to most messages. It makes me feel as if I knew you personally. I want to invite you a cuppa to say 'danke schon'.
'Invite you to have a cuppa ' I should have said, my wife corrected my English.
It kinda always amazes me how very few creators do that. What's the point in going online, if you don't want to interact with your audience 😅
Hallo, hast du meinen kleinen Beitrag für den Kaffee bekommen? Es wird nicht in meinem Feed angezeigt.
doch, das hab ich. Habe doch geantwortet? :) Gibt es ein problem?
@@NimbleNeedles Norman, keine Sorge. Ich wollte nur meine Transaktion überprüfen. Ich habe es auf meinem Bankkonto gefunden. einen schönen rest von 2022. die besten wünsche für 2023.
Great explanation of gauge. I particularly liked your message at the beginning of the video.
Happy to hear that cheryl. Especially as it's such an important message. For me knitting is about individuality and not doing what everyone else does 🥰
You have just share with us a wealth of wisdom in this world of knitting!!!! Big and enormous THANK YOU!!!! For this video, GRACIAS Norman!!!
it's a pleasure, Lili & you are very welcome :)
I am going to try these tips. I know knitting a gauge swatch is important, but I don't like doing it. Often my swatch doesn't match my finished project. I am planning to start a new project with a yarn and pattern new to me, so I can test out these new ideas. I have a list in my phone of my particular gauge and size of needles I used for my favorite and most used yarns.
You are so knowledgeable! I am simply going to jump off a cliff now and end the stress of attaining perfect gauge! 😂 seriously, I will be coming back to this vid as I become more experienced and can absorb your recommendations. It is so rich! thank you.
Yes yes yes! The swatch is only the first step! Great video. A must watch to the end.
This is the most comprehensive presentation on gauge that I've ever seen! Bookmarked this video for future reference. Thanks so much, Norman!
Glad you enjoyed it! and feel free to re-watch anytime :)
TY! Everything you mention in this tutorial makes sense. I will absolutely, follow your advice. Love your podcasts ❤️
Awesome! Thank you!
I just watched your video about getting gauge. It was very good and a lot of thought to consider. My big issue is that I swatch using various needles and yarn. I end up with different swatches. I pick the swatch that gives me a fabric I really like that is typically different to the designer's gauge. I find just changing needle sizes or materials doesn't work. You are right in saying that gauge is just an illusion. If the pattern is easy enough to make adjustments, I will do it.
Thanks so much for all your videos. They are very helpful.
It's important to do the swatch even if you've used the yarn before because sometimes different coloured yarn will give a different gauge. This is to do with the type and amount of dye used for each colour. Different colours will also affect the feel of the yarn. I find dark colours are a little stiffer than lighter coloured yarn. Over 100 stitches or more for a sweater this can actually change the garment size.
you are right there. Some dyes, especially when they are overdyed will kind of bloat up the fibers...and when you mix that with an undyed yarn it can be a problem. However, in my experience, it won'T really change your gauge. It will just change the appearance/density
Great video. Very informative and helpful to me with my tension troubles!! After years of fretting over how to get perfect tension (gauge) I have become aware of the differences made to my knitting by things like metal versus wooden needles and how my knitting relaxes as I progress through a project, particularly when sweater or cardigan knitting. So I'm measuring more and comparing sizes with jumpers and cardigans I already have that fit well and finding these techniques helpful in ending up with something I want to wear. Your video was very reassuring. 😍
Thank you for this video. It was most informative and helpful. I often wonder about accuracy and now feel better and more confident to apply your strategies. Appreciate you sharing your expertise.
Informative as always. Whilst it could be time consuming I really like the idea of doing different swatches with knots in the tail for future reference. Like yourself I am trying to find a range of yarns that suits me, I often find the cheaper yarns work well 😀 I am also going to start blocking for reference to. Thank you 🙏
I love your passion for knitting. Let me help you with the word, "variable." In the USA we say var- ee- able, with the stressed syllable being "var." I'm sure you speak many more languages than I do, so I hope you see this as a kind gesture, not as nit- picking (which I wish related to knitting).
these tips are always welcome if they come from a place of kindness and a genuine wish to help :)
My personal biggest issue is that, even tho it seems like this was one continuous take, it rarely is. And then, sometimes the phone rings, and I need to speak in German (or so), and then it's back to recording the video and that really messes with your mind - especially as there are so many words that very or totally similar (but with different pronouncation). variable is one of them...it's variabel in German ;-)
Hi Norman. You're looking very handsome and dapper with your new haircut; am also loving the Winter village scene on the round table behind you. Would like to take a moment to wish you an amazing and inspiring Holiday as we all journey towards 2022 together.
So many knitters want to jump right into the fun stuff instead of taking a little time to gauge and to continually check their gauge as they knit. Have seen quite a few knitting bloggers who don't know why the sleeves on their project came out too short; or their sweater collar is misshapen like a boat neck.
It's because they didn't gauge their needle size, yarn and tension before they started! You're spot on!
yah...that winter village is delighting me every day...it's 100% kitsch but that's what you need aruond xmas, isn't it.
And glad to hear you appreciate my efforts! :)
Oh my goodness this has me more confused than ever. I think I may have to watch this several more times. I'm grateful for the lady where I shop who assists me with my knitting and you Norman for the assistance you provide.
oh noes..i didn't want to confuse us. Why, pray tell?
@@NimbleNeedles just a lot of information for me to digest. I will watch it many times and it will become clearer Thank you.
@@kittykat717 sure! but don't hesitate to reach out in case anything needs clarification!
@@NimbleNeedles Thank you Norman that is very kind of you.
Very informative. There's a lot of information to take in and everything you say makes so much sense. Thank you.
I stumbled upon your blog when knitting an entrelac scarf. I am not a new knitter, but I have many things yet to learn. One of the tips I was looking for was tidy edges for the entrelac scarf. You really explained it well and I decided to look up your videos. Love them! One of the things I did as a new knitter was buying used yarn, working different stitches and learning what I liked and felt comfortable with. I learned I wanted to be challenged as a new knitter. I started off with lace and entrelac, haha. But... I am always searching now for ways to improve and clean up my stitches. I really want to knit a sweater and gauge is what has stopped me from doing that. Long story short, your video really has put me at ease. Thank you
glad to hear that. If you ask me, the key to knitting a sucessful sweater is knowing how your yarn will react and measuring, measuring, measuring!
The best video I have seen on this topic. Thank you for being so clear.
As usual, amazing tips 😀 thank you for all your work, Norman❤ as for knitting tension, fortunately it is possible and not that hard. I had extreme difference between my knit and purl tension, the purl rows were waaaay larger than knit ones. I was desperate to improve that and after one sweater and focusing on tightening every stitch, my purls became nice and even and now I don't have to focus anymore on the tension. I guess that the instant gratification of seeing nice stitches did the job!
Thanks for another informative video!
For the 'in-the-round' swatch I think it might be Patty Lyons who suggests twisting the first and last stitch. You can then keep the edges fairly neat and the slack doesn't run into the adjacent stitches. I use this a lot, and it's pretty satisfying.
I've also heard of people putting a swatch in their pocket and carrying it around for a few weeks to see how it changes - I'm not sure I'd have the patience for that, but it makes sense.
oh..i didnt know that trick yet. gotta try it!
as for exposn the swatch to wear and tear. I guess it makes sense but in a way I feel it's trying to perfect a system that cannot be perfect. So...i'm more the, stitck to a yarn base you know how it works kind of guy.
I wish you had in presence classes. Watching videos are useful for sure, but being educated by a proffessional with actual working pieces is something that cannot be replaced by online lessons. Cheers dear Norman!
that might be true. However, this way I can reach literally millions - in class only...well max 10-15 :(
Hi Norman. Great video! This is such an interesting and oftentimes frustrating topic. I am always so impressed with myself because I knit gauge swatches but then I deflate rather quickly as I struggle, lol! I was making a pair of socks a while back and tried 4 different sizes ranging from 2.75 mm down to 1.5 mm and basically kept getting the same gauge! I did my swatch in the round by sliding it from one end to the other as you showed in the video. I finally gave up and chose the size that was easier to work with because I was more interested in the technique than the actual fit. And recently I did 2 gauge swatches on a potential project using 5.5 to 6.5 mm and the same thing happened. I frogged it and decided not to even make the project. Not worth the aggravation. Right now I’m having fun crocheting a cute sparkly Christmas stocking! You’re thought on this subject are extremely helpful. Everything you say makes perfect sense. I am going to rewatch this video a few times. Thanks for sharing your insight on this topic! Very much appreciated! As a side note, I love your scarf, light fixture and holiday decor! Very festive! Thanks Norman. Have an awesome week!😊
Can u tell I love xmas? 😅
And yeah...gauge can be so tricky and in these cases I feel it's much better to stick with measuring, if u ask me.
Enjoy your holiday season, thea 😊🥰
Thank you. You as well Norman!🎄🎁
Thanks for another really helpful video! If I had to choose only 3 knitting channels to watch, you would be one of them. That's the closest I can get to choosing a favorite, LOL. Thanks for all your work.
Wow, thank you! glad to hear i am among your top 3!
Hi Norman, as I have already mentioned, I am having difficulties counting the stitches and rows of my guage swatch because it is knitted in black yarn. I have heard of a running marker, using a different colour yarn and wondered whether you would like to make a video of it, showing the rest of us how to do it. I'm sure it would prove useful to a lot of people. There are other videos teaching it but they don't teach as clearly as you ❤😁🙏
hm....these methods really are not meant for swatches. So a running marker or stitch holders all these kinda things won't really helpp you. Plus they will distort the fabric and your gauge. bright Daylight is typically best for counting stitches in black yarn.
Thank you for your advice. I'll do what you previously suggested and use stitch markers instead 😊
Thank you Norman🤗 Very informative and I know that I will be watching this video several times and definitely taking notes.
feel free to come back to it any time. that'S what it's for after all :)
You are so amazing- I can follow your instructions so clearly😉thank you for sharing your knowledge
Happy to help!
You are just the best! Just exactly the video I needed. Your attitude to knitting is fantastic. I love your practical, helpful advice. Thank you. I'll buy you a coffee ☕
I saw it! Thank you so much Emer
That was so informative. Thank you so much.
Very useful tips. I especailly appreciated the tip about different material or shapes of needles to get gauge, sure will try that, I also find some wools vary a lot in row gauge which can be important for raglan shaping, for example. I have also seen my gauge change as I was knitting, either because I get more familiar with the pattern and relax, or because I knit with different lighting during day or night. I fixed that last problem by using a 5000 kevin light bulb, day or night. It helped a lot. Try as you knit is great when you knit for yourself, but much harder when you knit for someone who lives far away, I like to borrow a prefered garnment of that person to help in that case. ;-)
that's a very excellent tip you are adding here Nicole: borrow a well-fitting garment if you are knitting for someone else! thx for adding it (and I may have said it already, but always such a joy to see a familar face/name here in the comments, Nicole. so thank you for your continuing support!).
Very good information presented in an easy to understand way.
Norman,
Will you ever show how to seam a sweater together. All videos I see just show the easy bits. Could you show us how it is done “in situ”? That would be real. Anybody can do the mattress stitch once they have started.The most difficult and very important part would be to learn how to actual start at the sleeves and at the body bottom. And I don’t know of any video showing close up of seaming in a clear, well explained way specially when one does or attempt a set-in sleeve and arm scythe assemblage. You explain knitting things in an intelligent, easier to remember way and your explanations make a lot of sense. I thank you for that.
maaybe..though the sweater i am knitting right now is not seamed. but maybe somewhen in the future.
If I could like this video more than once I would. Thank you for this very educational video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Norman
PS: It's the spirit that counts! :)
Thank you again Norman. Your videos are so informative. This one gave me a lot to think about in terms of swatches and how to make my garments fit better!
great, Nydia. And do feel free to ask your questions anytime in case there are any in the future!
Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge with us all! I learn so much from you! Merry Christmas!
Happy holidays, Darlene!
Thanks for the great videos on knitting techniques. I’m returning to knitting after a long break and it’s been super helpful to both refresh and to learn new techniques. A video on techniques to “cast on across” and “pick up stitches” would be much appreciated. Thumbs on mitts are my winter challenge!
i am planing a video on gloves soon. So..that will probably help you as well! :)
@@NimbleNeedles Thank you!
Love all your videos , they help me solve a lot of the issues in my knitting projects
awesome! and remember - you can always comment in case you need further help!
Great suggestions in this video, I just finished my first cardigan and it fits perfectly! I used many of your suggestions, especially since I had to adjust because of my own measurements. I did have a good pattern which brings me to a question: “ how do you know it’s a good pattern before you buy it? Is it mostly trial and error? I look at the reviews but you can’t always tell. Thank you Norman, I have learned so much from you!
well, first of all you can look at past projects on ravelry. That might help. if it's not the best pattern, some knitters will typically complain or add notes.
Other than that, it's very hard to know really. But it should hav ebeen test-knitted and tech-edited.
Thank you Norman, I will try Ravelry!
I love how you explain things so simply. I have a lot of wool that has no labels, how do I know what the gauge should be?
the gauge on the label is ALWAYS AND WIHTOUT EXCEPTION wrong. You can use the same sock wool to knit gloves, socks, and a lace shawl but you will use different needle sizes for each.
the right kind of gauge is the one you feel looks/works best. It's as simple as that. As a first inkling you can use the wrap per inch method (scroll all the way down here: nimble-needles.com/wool-and-tools/how-to-read-yarn-labels/)
As usual a very useful and important tutorial. But I can't stop wondering if we can get a closer look to that shawl you're wearing. I love it. And yeah I know there's sadly no pattern for it .. 😕
Well...it's like a simple rib stitch or so knitted with two different needles sizes and a fabulous cashmere yarn. Maybe I can write about it on my blog..
@@NimbleNeedles YES, please do, Norman! That would be great and something to look forward to! Thank you.
Ist das ein landlust Tuch?
@@monijustmoni835 nein...aber so ähnlich im grunde.
Thanks Norman, this was really helpful! Newbie knitter here and new subscriber!!!
Glad it was helpful and welcome to my channel, Karen :)
Very practical advice indeed...we knitters are NOT robots lol ! The pressure of 'getting gauge' has been a frustration for sure but I agree with you wholeheartedly that it is somewhat of an illusion...Love that you said it but also explained why...I measure throughout a project, and have even gone as far as going down a needle size for the purl row ! For instance, I'm knitting baby leggings and was super excited to get sts. per inch/ and even row gauge ! but guess what !? it all changed as I approached the top of the pants after the diaper compensation , heading toward the final waist ribbing...I thought oh well ! all these stitches need to taper anyway and will stretch plenty enough ! Luckily no huge difference this time but I never hesitate to rip back, change yarn or needle size if I can get close to gauge and am satisfied with the final fabric qualities of drape and size (which can be fleeting over the years) Ha !
I noticed that my gauge changes slightly on a day by day basis. It's a nice reminder to not let projects idle too long 😅
I have been too afraid to knit a sweater and sit stunned when people say the knitted one it two weeks. Don’t the have a life? Don’t children or dogs demand feeding? Don’t you work? Anyway, your remark about sticking to a few specific yarns that you know, really hit me! All the other gauge things aside, this makes sense!
Thanks Norman! You are so precise it made me feel quite sloppy thinking about the way I just eyeball gauge! I'll try to be more precise but without going too crazy about it 🤗
well, Marta, do whatever works for you really. I present these kind of information so you can pick it if you need it...but if your system works out and it brings you joy, don't think of yourself as sloppy but rather efficent :)
Please, Norman, will you teach us about “reversing “ the gauge game?
After knitting the swatch (and after blocking etc and loveing it) how do we measure the swatch and then figure out how to determine which pattern size to knit to fit OUR OWN gauge. Doing the math is the challenge. I have done this successfully several times but am far from confident!
Thanks so much.
that's actually a very complicated question as it depends on sooo many different factors. not sure how I can help there in a video? What were you looking for?
@@NimbleNeedles yes, I understand that it would be extremely difficult to explain. But once it is understood, advanced knitter for sure, it is very freeing and useful. Thanks for your response!
@@janemarriott3389 i mean, i can put it on my list of video ideas but I am not really sure if I can get it across in a way other people would understand it. And that's my goal with all of my videos here. It's not always easy and always requires a lot of planing
A video on obtaining gauge when knitting stranded color work would be interesting.
About swatching : I never count how many stitches/rows to the 10cm, but put markers ( a bit of thin yarn does the job) to isolate a certain nr of stitches/rows (e.g. 40) and then, after blocking, measure to the millimeter how much that is, and than calculate how much this represent on 10cm. Much more accurate when working out my own designs or adaptations.
Yes, absolutely!
Hi Norman, great video! It was quite useful and I agree, it’s ok that you don’t get exact number of stitches as we are not a machine. It made me feel a bit better because I always felt pressured about gauge. Good brush up on knitting in the round gauge. Yep purls are usually looser. :) I’m currently making mittens and the pattern calls for sports weight yarn or a light DK. I think I’m using light DK yarn but it comes out a bit bigger than I wanted. I think I would decrease cast on for a few stitches for next pair.
Btw, I love your scarf, it looks beautiful on you! Perhaps you could do tutorial on it? 🙂 Thanks for sharing your knowledge! 🌷
I sort of plan a shawl tutorial soonish. But probably January or so 😊
@@NimbleNeedles Sounds great! Love your show and appreciate the honest details and enthusiasms! ☺️
I love this so much! II think gauge swatches are both overrated and underrated - I find them soooo useful but not for 'meeting gauge' really. I also have a few more tips:
1. Bigger gauge swatches are better!! I know it takes more time, but your knitting tension isn't going to be totally even over the course of a whole sweater, or even one gauge swatch. I always make a swatch big enough that I can take 3 measurements in three different spots and then take the average of those measurements.
2. Measure your swatch both before and after blocking to understand how blocking can change the fabric! I did this for a sweater recently and learned that after blocking, the rows grew a lot in size. I then used this to adjust the length of the body and sleeves so that it would fit me well after blocking.
3. Think of your swatch like a tool. It's not 100% accurate, but you can use it for so many things! If you know that you have 20 stitches per 10cm for example, and you want your sweater to be 100cm in circumference, then you know roughly how many stitches you'll need to have on the needles. This can help you choose the right size in a pattern, because small, medium, large aren't always consistent!
I hope these are helpful! :)
love these tips and I couldn't agree more...except maybe for the average thing. I know Cheryl Brunette is a proponent of it but...I would say that fractional stitches are a bit of a problem as you cannot knit them either and one should rather always measure full stitches (but maybe that is being a bit too accademic)
But yeah, using it as a tool and not treating it like the bible really is the key :)
@@NimbleNeedles yes, it definitely doesn't always work, but sometimes gives me an idea of how much variation there is - which also helps me see if my tension is a bit uneven! But very true that fractional stitches can be a problem!
I really think the best part of gauge swatches is being able to get a sense of what the fabric will be like. I've had times I've met gauge but the drape of the fabric just wasn't what I wanted at all. As I've gotten more comfortable adjusting patterns to suit me better, gauge swatches have become even more important for "previewing" the fabric!
Maybe it's not a good thing but I just finished a cardigan where my gauge was totally "off" but I loved the fabric that it created, so I just knit a smaller size to accommodate that my gauge was off - and could check that the size would still fit me by calculating roughly how many cm the finished piece would be! This definitely isn't a science because tension can vary throughout a whole project (stress always makes me knit more tightly!) but it was cool to be able to do this :)
I.simply.love.you! This is what I needed so much!
so Glad it was helpful!