How to set up your bike saddle fore and aft position (Bike Fit Live from Studio)
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Coach Scott talks you through how to set up your saddle on your bike. He chats about fore and aft plus height and how important it is to understand that your bike comes in 2 parts with regards to the fit. Your upper limbs and lower limbs!!!
Want to book an appointment with Scott?
calendly.com/k...
You are really one of the most professional bike fitter I ever see on the youTube ....... many thanks
Thank you very much Hazem. If there are any topics you would like covered then please just ask 👍
@@BulletproofCycling I am constantly having pain on left side and it's giving me sciatica pain after 30 miles. Also with this my left quad is 3" smaller so then my hamstring is doing a lot of work. I don't know how I developed this but I did ride 56cm for a year and now I am in 54cm. Any help would be appreciated. I keep changing saddles and right side is fine but left side is always just not having it.
@@suadmahmutovic6542 thanks for the message. Could be a few things impacting but start with checking your leg length position on both sides. Prop your bike up (if you have a turbo trainer then put it on that). Slip your shoes off and put the right pedal all the way to the bottom (crank arm at 180 degrees) then do the same with your left leg. Does this feel similar in terms of reach. It may be that one side is feeling stretched! If so then just reduce the height a little. Also try and have someone watch and see if your pelvis tilts on one side. If you move the saddle down a few mm’s then just slide it forward a little. 👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling Thank you for the reply. I will try this 🙏
Sorry I’m slow😜, but I’ve watched this many times and just now heard the answer to my saddle adjusting.
I've been tinkering with my saddle recently (selle amp) and I've been experiencing discomfort on the inner part of my sit bones. I got on today and within a mile started to feel it again. I remembered your advice from this video (120 mm), dismounted and moved the saddle back a bit. I felt a difference immediately. The pressure was moved back to my sit bones and not in a painful way. I had the saddle up for reach purposes like you said the majority of us do. Thanks for this mate. Keep up the good work 👏
Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍
So much common sense compressed into a single RUclips video. Thank you sincerely.
Very kind of you Chris. I am opening my studio again in April so I plan to share a lot more tips 👍👍👍
About to receive my new gravel bike in a week. Will consult your videos when I set the bike up. Thanks for your advice.
Here to help 👍
I'm really glad I've found your channel. I've gone through 3 saddles and still not found one comfortable enough to stick with it. I was just about to get a cut out saddle but now I'll play with the one I have first. I have short legs and a long torso... like a Corgi, so it's a lot of back and forth. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate it.
Haha Susan - a Royal Corgi I am sure 👍👍👍👍
Hey, coach. I am learning great things from you. I am 62 years old and eye surgeon by profession. On 12 th I finished 200 BRM very well. Thank you so much for providing excellent coaching. Keep coaching.
That’s wonderful Parimal, well done.
I actually have advanced keratoconus in my right eye that can’t be corrected with contact lens. I only see light but have managed since 15 with it 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for a very informative video Scott. I've been cycling for more years than I care to remember, i have learnt from your video i have had my saddle height 10mm to high now adjusted it to your recommendations, much more comfortable. Thank you,
Thanks Terry 👍👍👍
I will use your advice to fine tune my position....Thanks again....
Cheers from Chicago. Thank you for making all of these videos 🤓🎋
Hey Jong Pak thanks for comment. I hope Chicago is fine 👍👍👍👍🏴 🇺🇸
I struggled to find a saddle that worked for me. I followed various advice and theories and spent more money than necessary. When I followed sit bone width guidelines I was using saddles that were 160mm wide and still struggled to be comfortable. Your 120mm rule made all the difference. I set my saddle height using the Lemond method and tweaked it till it felt right. I then used the 120 rule and ended up at 125mm. I am now using a saddle that is 142mm and it provides great support. Now when I ride the saddle supports me and doesn't interfere with my pedaling stroke. I used your reach guideline to set stem length. Your guidelines were simple but spot on. Thank you!
Thank you very much for sharing 👍👍👍
Great video Scott keep em coming
Thanks 🙏
Scotty - yet another great video! Glad to have fortunately stumbled upon your channel. Watching just one episode was sufficient for me to smash that subscribe and like button! Thank you.
Thank you so much ❤️👍
Superb info, wonderfully presented in a clear way thank you.
Thank you 🙏
Plenty of little gems there! Thanks!
Thank you 🙏
@@BulletproofCycling one thing…
The 120mm mark on the saddles normally coincides with the 70mm width.
However the 120mm point ( which is actually marked from factory) sits at 100mm width. Would you still set up the saddle based on this mark, or at the 70mm width point?
Hearing you very well
Thoroughly enjoyed that mate. Very informative and useful info 🍻
Thank you 🙏
Excellent video from which I learned a lot. Never too old to learn eh? 😀
Thank you Tony 👍
Thank you for the tips, this really helps! Would you be able to do more topics on bike fitting? Saddle height, stem length/angle, cleats position etc
Thank you. I plan to run live sessions from my studio when I return after lockdown on the 26th April. Will cover all these topics. Thanks for your support 👍
Greetings from Canada, excellent video !
Hi Howard. Thank you for checking out my channel. It’s fairly new so I really appreciate the support. Hope all is well in Canada 👍 🇨🇦🏴
Great video, helps explain some of points you covered at my superb Bike fit with yourself the other week.
Thanks Donald 👍👍👍👍
Cannae wait to sort my saddle out now. Just bought new one the other day and thought I got the wrong one. Turns out I've never actually had it set up right from start also didn't know bout keeping front screw tight and the saddle will move on rail 👍
👍👍👍👍 keep me posted 👍
@@BulletproofCycling did a bit of testing on zwift today. Man you just saved me buying another saddle. What a game changer. Started with centre point actually had saddle too high,far back and tilted at the front which I thought looked kinda level until I got the spirit level out felt ok ish but quads were we bit sore but putting that down to fitness and lack of warm up but decided to put saddle back bout 5mm and it just works so thank you. By far the easiest saddle info to follow on you tube 👍
This was a Master giving a Master Class ... mother fantastic video Coach
Thank you 🙏 If there is anything you want me to cover in future videos then feel free to let me know 👍
@@BulletproofCycling for the reach ... someone once mentioned to me that if you rising with your palms in the hoods and look down then the handlebar and the front wheel axle should be in line ... any truth on something like that ? Any opinion on riding a frame 1 size smaller ?
I am still going through some of your older vids. If there is a special request on a vid then surely I will mention
This may have been true on older bikes but I know what he means. However the trail on bikes changes (shorter on aero bikes compared to gravel bikes)
Always best to have torso and arms measured in proper bike fit 👍👍👍
Great chat Scott....Sound was good....and on a personal note I use the old flite saddles.....I have an arse of leather( my face also) and to be honest every saddle I have ever used has been fine....If you ride your bike for 20 hours a week I think you can expect it to feel a little sensitive !!!.....Mark.
I rode LEJOG solo back in 90’s in prime Mark on Flite saddle! Loved it 👍
Thanks for watching video. Demo worked so will do one weekly now from studio 👍
Glad to have a starting point
Very interesting and extremely informative video. Thank you!
Thank you. I have been involved in bike biomechanics since the late 80’s. Seen a lot but the body is still the same (in most cases 😂)
Very informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing such insights. Helped me understand why lower back was hurting after each long ride and why arms were going numb!
Thank you 🙏
Thanks.
🙏🙏
Thank you I now know what to do
👍👍👍
Thank you coach!
My pleasure
Thanks coach
What an absolutely fantastic channel 👌🏻👌🏻 Funny and informative, absolutely spot on! Hello fae up near John O’ Groats!
That is very kind of you Gordon. Thank you 🙏
I cycled around your area a few times. With the start point of Lands End, I was pretty tired 😂😂
Welcome to the community - lots of great content and laughs to share 👍
@@BulletproofCycling Aye, we see a few tired looking LeJoG cyclists up here on occasion 😂 I must arrange an appointment with you at some point after lockdown, need property measured up for a new Factor bike and I’m no the spring chicken I used to be, also the only people this far north who measure you up is the undertaker 😂
@@Gordon19781 😂😂😂 defo Gordon - be great to see 👍👍👍
Hola from the Dominican Repulic Coach Scott, and thank you so much for all of your incredible helpful and thoughtfull videos!
I have a question, here some info for context:
Height: 170cm
Inseam: 80.5 cm
WINGSPAN: 183 cm
Ape Index 1 (Wingspan / Height) = 1.076
Ape Index 2 (Wingspan - Height) = +13 cm
Shoe size: 43-44
Bike: Felt FR30 size 51cm (brand new dialing it in)
Seat Post Angle: 74 deg
Inline seatpost
I am having trouble understanding fore aft in relation to height. I went to a fitter here and he put my seat height at 71.3 cm and took my saddle (inline post) all the way to the back. I understand that the start of my femur (marker) is good if it is aligned with the seat post tube. I apparently have long legs for my height? and am a bit build in the top. I also felt more balanced back there, with the saddle almost at the limit max line of the back. On the trainer during the fit this was the spot where I did not feel weight on my hands, or felt tipping forward. The bike came with a 90mm stem and he suggested a 110mm. as I was feeling a bit cramped with long arms. I could not find a 110mm one to be lent to me but I found a 100mm from my friend and I feel the reach is still good with this one and I am able to be in the drops more now after feeling less cramped, felt twisted/cramped before. I feel that he put my saddle to high up as I feel a dead spot at 6 o’clock, I did not feel it on the trainer but feel it now, too much. When I apply the Lemond method as you suggested, when I subtract the 5mm I end up with 70.5cm for saddle height.
Now for my question, when I find the 120mm point on the saddle, Do i have t put that IN THE MIDDLE as my starting point? put it in the middle of the rails? or is that the point that I will use when I measure from the BB to the saddle for height?
And also, when you say if you push the saddle back ex: 5mm one has to bring it down 5mm as well? I am shaving off from what measurement? The original Lemond? or I go down more from there?
Don't know If I am already at the max at fore (saddle all the way back) if the Lemond 70.5 measurement stays like that to the 120mm mark back there or if it only applies for it in the middle and then I have to subtract even more from there.
I hope I was able to explain myself correctly, if not I can clarify further if you need me too.
Thank you again for reading this and for all your help. I really enjoy your videos and your passion gets through. Lots of warmth from the Caribbean.
Gus
PS: Since I do not have this part sorted out I still don’t know if 90mm 6deg stem that it came with is better than a 100mm stem 6deg..I have long arms but have difficulty deciding which is better for my overall position on bike.
This guy is amazing and funny!
Haha thank you 🙏
Really awesome informative videos!!!!! You put alot of things into perspective for me. I’ve gone through a ridiculous amount of saddles. I constantly either have inside leg rub or numbness or sometimes both. Can you do more videos on posture on the bike and also maybe perhaps a video for the ladies. I know alot of us struggle with saddles and pain. This is truly a limiting factor for me in my training. I’ve been fitting numerous times and I remain a mystery fit. I do have a pelvic misalignment or twist that manifests with my left hip slightly forward. Any suggestions for improving comfort
Defo do more posture videos and I will defo do lady specific issues - will get some female riders on the bike jig in the studio 👍
@@BulletproofCycling hell yes!!!!!!!!! I’m here for it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SUPERB INFO! YOU SHOULD HAVE YOUR BIKE CLOTHES ON WHILE EXPLAINING
Great advice. Thanks
Thanks Mark. This was a demo to see if the internet would let me go live from studio. Plan to do weekly show now 👍
I've had my saddle on a 0 setback seatpost, a 20mm post, and now on a 32mm setback post. I've also changed my stem several times. Nothing is comfortable. Still too much weight on hands and wrists unless I put the seat as far back as it goes on the 32mm post, but this feels crappy. A bike fitter raised my saddle about 2 inches higher and tilted it down, which is what caused me to have chronic wrist pain.
Sorry to hear your issues Don. The tilt is common in racing but only 1-2 degrees. It’s not something I do with non racers but everyone has a reason etc.
Sounds like you need to get to some neutral point in your position. Is it possible your bars are too wide for your shoulders and causing you to extend your grip too much?
Really hope you get your issue sorted - I plan to do a video on hands/wrists next 👍
Huh? Measure from the nose of the saddle to the wall, then measure from the middle of bottom bracket to the wall. And that's going to give you the difference (difference of what?) and that will give you an idea (an idea of what?) So get it to the center take a measurement of that and then when you're moving all you've got to do is move it slightly forward...Huh? Could someone out there explain these questions for me?
i watched too seriously, when u search a tape measure i got intent to borrow u mine which close to me at that moment, until i realized I'm actually watching youtube lol.
😂😂😂😂👍👍👍 thanks. You should see me in my studio - I am always looking for them 😂😂😂😂
Hi Scott. Great channel, probably the most comprehensive around.
Yes please confirm or expand on Michaels vital question on exact seat position measurement (for/aft). Does this 120mm measurement you give accurate for all standard long nose seats? Will this be accurate wrt different saddles and where your sit bones actually come to rest on the saddle. I use the same saddles on all my bikes for easily transferable measurements. I use Fabric line elite shallow, does the 120mm measurement apply to this saddle?
Many Thanks
Daz.
Hi Daz. Thanks for the comment. The channel is new but I am old :) I have coached and fitted for 30 years. The 120mm is pretty standard Daz and what we use at Shimano. It will give you a neutral point. You then have to tweak in accordance with how you feel as without doing a full bike fit on you, it's hard to get this definitive point for you. I have seen a few videos that were sent to me today from riders regarding saddles and types of saddles. They were rubbish as they just promote brands and this is not what riders want. I work with companies like Selle and Fizik to name a few for saddles BUT I would never advocate them as the BEST saddle. Ideally you want to use a local shop who offering demo saddles. However, I am defo going to do a video on saddles and how they differ but also have many similarities. Working on your glute strength and stability will help. Keep me posted with your progress and thanks again for tuning into the channel. I will keep sharing topics that folks want.
Nice…am big bug with mini torso and bug like long legs/arms vs height…
Can you cover any tips to try and ease fatigue in the quads. When I do hard interval sessions it’s always the muscle group that feels it the most. I know every 1 probably does but I feel that it’s limiting my performance (might not be but definetly feels that way lol). Thanks Scott 😃👍
Will add for next week. Could be mix of strength and bike fit issue 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Scott, thanks for sharing this valuable information. Really helpful.
I'm trying to get the most out of my Fizik Aliante, which is kind of difficult to get the perfect tilt. Do you have any info on this? I like it very much when climbing, very very comfortable, but it's difficult to get a perfect all conditions sweet spot... any clues on this? I like this saddle mainly because I feel much easier to roll my pelvis forward and avoiding pelvis collapse.
It's possible that I can't find the perfect tilt due to not having yet found the perfect saddle fore aft and height, despite of having made tweaks at least a thousand times in the last years 🤪? Thanks
Hey Carlos, thanks for your support. The Aliante is excellent for supporting your pelvis as it attempts to support your pelvic tilt and roll your pelvis forward. It supports you with its rear curve when you are climbing as you roll back due to gravity. It does though leave a small contact area when you are looking to apply big power with hands on the drops and your body arching forward in an aero position. Personally, I would start my clients with the saddle level and no downward tilt. I would create the fore/aft based on leg length and flexibility (sadly I can't do this via a message) Try having your rails perfectly straight and then work with the saddle in an aggressive forward position. Then move back by only 3-5mm at a time. Obviously, the height of your saddle will alter as you move back back keep it the same to start with so that you can monitor each change. I hope this helps and please keep me posted
@@BulletproofCycling many thanks for your reply :) just a bit confused... so, i understand you're suggesting that i should start fiddling in a more agreessive fore position (tbh this is the point i'm in now, but feel a little unbalanced... great on climbs with great support, a bit less than ok on flats but still supported but a bit of too much weight on the front, but not so good on descending because of too much weight on the front). Maybe i'm already in a too much fore position and possibly a bit too much high, i'm afraid, despite i'm having been getting lower and lower with the saddle through time, with good results i must say... but maybe still a bit high...
So, regarding to set the initial height (i think it's best to dial this once and for all), what should be the point to consider to have a new starting point? In your video, you refer the 120mm point, starting from the rear of the saddle and having that point just in the center of seapost... but that's on a flat saddle. Is there anything specific for Aliante? Fizik seems to say that there is a point where the saddle is 75mm wide, that's the anatomical center of the saddle. Should i consider getting that point centered with the seatpost?
After setting the new height, i'll just start from zero with your suggestion to be a in a more fore position (adjusting the height accordingly) and them moving back (adjusting the height accordingly again) till i get the perfect position.
Thanks
I was suggesting creating a starting point that you can use as a baseline to measure. It sounds like you have done this. Now just make small adjustments with the saddle starting with moving it back 5mm. Do short 5-10 min rides and keep moving the saddle and compare the feedback you get.
If you think the saddle is too high then do the same - very small movements and compare the feedback (start with saddle in middle of seat post)
Good luck
Hi Scott, great video. Really informative, thank you.
I have struggled with a comfortable saddle position for quite a while.
Im 181cm tall with 89cm inseam (short torso, long legs+arms) riding a size 56 road bike.
I have a depressing problem with pain on the top of my kneecaps (both knees) appearing 2-3 days after my rides.
I have tried so many changes like different cleat positions, saddle height, saddle tilt, fore and aft positions, higher cadence.
Even effortless rides give me the pain.. Im pretty confused about this.
I finally did a bikefit.
The bikefitter slammed my saddle all the way forward and wanted me even 1cm more forward then the saddle rails would allow.
I recently ordered a zero offset seatpost to acheive this position. He said this could be the solution for my knee pain.. really hopes he´s right.
Do you think the fitter is on the right path here? Well guess I will notice soon after trying out.
I am sure he is an expert and a great fitter.
The change in fore/aft position will engage more glute muscle and may alter the engagement through the knee as you move over the top of stroke. May be that you were kicking through the top and if glute was too far away you could have been over using the quad.
I wish you all the best but as I said just keep me posted if you want 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling Thank you for the answer. Ok I understand, that explains why it feels like only my quads is working 👍
@@jehovasmike in new position you should feel your glutes working more 👍👍👍
Update: I got my 0mm setback seatpost and set my saddle position accourding to the bikefit.
I was a little sceptical about this, because if you google top knee or front knee pain it often suggests that your knee is to forward. But things can be a little more complicated.
I have cycled about 5 times with my new position, even with hard efforts that would leave my knees in difficult pain before. My knees are feeling A LOT better and cycling is fun again!
@@jehovasmike thanks for the update. I hope your journey continues 👍👍👍
Hi Scott! I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm new to biking and unfortunately bought my bike in 2020 before a bike fit. A year later finally did a bike fit and was told my bike is a size medium and I should be on a small or 50cm bike. She adjusted as much as she can but I'm experiencing my toes numbing, Shoulder and wrist pain. Is this normal since I'm a beginner or should I get a smaller bike? Also, Anyway I can share my bike fit video with you? Would love to get your opinion. TIA!
Sorry to hear. If you are on a 52 and need a 50 then the reach could be around 5-10mm too long. This can be gained by a shorter stem. However, it depends on what size stem you started on. Guess you changed this in fit. You may be able to flip your stem and bring stack up (fitter may have done this.
Your bars are more than likely too wide for shoulders on bigger bike. This could be causing you issues.
You also may have moved saddle forward to get reach which could change loading on front.
Obviously check things like shoe tightness and shoe width etc.
Hope you get it sorted - I will be opening up online fit sessions towards end of summer and I am doing a workshop based fit that I am going to share on RUclips 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling thank you!
What should the ideal seat setback measurement be? Or what do I do with the difference I obtain by subtracting the measurement from the wall to the saddle tip and the wall to the center of the BB? TIA
Hi Michael - if you have standard long nose saddle then measure 120mm from the back of the saddle. Make a mark. Then drop a plumb line from there and use the measurement you have as the distance from the plumb line to the center of the bottom bracket. I may do a video showing this if you think it will be helpful
@@BulletproofCycling Oh cool! Thanks, man!
The best explanation I've seen so far. Coach, would You give an advice about saddle setback (from bottom bracket to 120mm point) for my "dimensions": inseam length 80,7cm, height 169cm and foot size EU40 (24,7cm) ? I use 165mm cranks.
In the range of 190-210mm but I would need to perform a full static fit. If you are interested then send me an email and I’ll send you details of virtual fit
@@BulletproofCycling perfect virtual measurement :) I'm at 20,2cm from BB right now. I have compared with few saddles and the 120mm from the back of the saddle is almost identical with the SRP (saddle reference point) - it's where the saddle width is equal to 70mm.
@@BulletproofCycling Coach, thank you very much for all your support. I would like to ask you whether setting fore-aft position shall I also look to have hips behind foot (looking for comfort, not race position)?
@@jacekratajczyk2583 yes you want that. With leg dropped to bottom of stroke I have hip approx 190-200mm behind the bottom bracket. My inside seam is 840mm 👍👍👍
Hi Scott, loving your videos! What advice would you give to someone like myself, who, as a kid, snapped their femur and spent two months in traction resulting in one femur approx 20mm longer than the other?
Hi - I have helped some riders who have had bad motorcycle accidents and resulted in similar issues. Why not drop me an email and I’ll share what I did with them.
so this helped me. I was never engaging my bum on my rides and was having problems increasing my cadence. Turns out my seat height was too low. I raised it a bit and could feel my bum muscles activating a little bit. Not sure if it's quite high enough, but it's closer. Question is now that the saddle is adjusted how long will it take for my butt muscles to adjust???
Awesome Lisa. Hopefully you start to feel more stable and more powerful. No timescale really but everyday is better 👍
Sorry Scott. Rewatching just wanted to check at 15.00 you talk about set back 210mm. Thats 8inches. You sure you don't mean 20-25mm.
Hi Scott,
I appreciate your responses to my prior questions. Following up again on your reference to the "120 mm go-to point," and its origin/basis. Is this point based generally upon the width of saddles at that point in the profile? In other words, is it similar to Selle Italia's "Biomechanical Reference Point" (BRP) line they put on their saddles at the point in each profile that is 70mm in width? The reason I ask is that I have noticed Selle Italia's profiles are varied enough that the BRP point is vastly different across their different saddle shapes.
Yeh it’s a general point only but if you have the width of the saddle within your sit bone width range then it should work for 👍
... took me quite a while to find out that when you say "possession" you actually mean "position" 🙂
😂😂😂
I say position - you hear possession. Accents are great.
Great video cheers.. does fore aft also relate to sliding down the saddle even though it’s level
Hey Andrew - some saddles are set with a slight downward tilt through the padded mould (ISM for example) when the rails are level.
However most should be level at the main sit bone area.
Flatter saddles (eg Arione ) let you slide forward and backwards which can be helpful (if your flexibility and core strength is good)
Hi, so optimum saddle position should be inline with downtube to start with?
When you say measure the saddle 120 mm from the back, and then center it Do you mean center it over the seat post? What if the seat post has the 15 mm set back?
Yes 120mm from back of saddle. Lay back seat posts can work when bike fits but sometimes they are used to accommodate more folks to particular sizes. Fit your lower limbs to crank and upper body to reach. When these 2 are correct then bike feels great 👍
Hi Scott,
You mentioned at 12:50 (approximately) to measure 120 from the back of the saddle and that should be in “the middle”.... Middle of what?
Thanks Ron
Your saddle rails 👍
And is this aligned to where on the seat post eg with a 20mm offset is this aligned vertically with 20mm back from the seatpoat?
Question coach happy with current setup of saddle height with 175 crank length But would like to try a shorter crank. Do i need to lower my saddle height? Change fore aft etc..? Thank u.
Ride with no movement and then ride with 5mm added to saddle. Try and feel the difference.
Only after a few rides at optimal height would i then look at fore-aft 👍👍👍
I would love to meet you! Living in Sweden.....Sorry!
Thanks George. Went to Gothenburg when I was 13 - loved it 👍👍👍
Coach, I have a question: if I set fore-aft position with cops and balance, but I feel pain in hip flexors, shall I move saddle a bit forward to open the hip more ? I'm an individual with big torso mass, and when I set the saddle forward and don't feel the hip pain, I feel pain in my wrists and in front of knee cap. When I move it backward, the hip pain comes again. I struggle with that posiiton for a long time, had two bike fits and it's still not comfortable enough :(
Hey Jacek - thanks for comment.
I am sure your fire looked at bar width so that should be ok. You are right that if upper mass is large then you can overload on bars.
Is stack at highest point?
Other than state the obvious that you need to reduce mass, I would also focus on upper body posture strength. Are you doing this?
does that 120mm carry over to MTB as the seatposts tend to be slightly more angled dont they?
I use the 120mm on MTB’s as reference point for handlebar reach and hip positioning. So the 120mm point to BB on MTB would need adjusting with different seatpost setback or angle but distance would be the same. 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling thankyou sir..on my mtb i measured the centre of my saddle rails to BB centre with the bike levelled on the trainer and it comes out to 195mm,i only have short legs and found i need to go 5-10mm forward from center of the rails with saddle to hit that comfort zone..saddle is comfy on my sit bones and my hands drop nice on the bars but damn does the saddle crush my man friend lol.
Short legs long torso so how much to move the saddle back ?
You set the saddle to leg length Gary. It’s common that folks push to saddle according to reach but this only puts your pelvis out of position. This is where a bike fit would really help you 👍👍
I've got lower back pain, and right shoulder pain. Any suggestions?
Could be reach of bike and or your stack height is too low.
I am uploading a video on Sunday that might help you 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling I recently changed from a 90 mm stem to a 100 mm, should I switch back and see if it feels better? I changed stems because my previous bike had a 100 mm stem after the local bike fitter installed it.
Also, I'm using an SMP saddle, I've heard those need to be forward a little more than other brands? Is that true? Maybe I need to adjust it a little?
For MTB is the same ?
Yes
For clarification, is the 200-210mm setback figure you mention around the 14:50-15:00 mark in reference to the "go-to point" at 120mm from the rear of the saddle? If that is the case, my back of the envelope math on a 275mm long "traditional" saddle seems to indicate that someone around your height would have about a setback anywhere from 45-55 mm from the actual nose of the saddle to the bottom bracket.
I got there doing the following math: 275mm - 120mm = 155mm from the go-to point to the nose. Assuming you need that point 210mm behind the bottom bracket, 155mm + 55mm = 210mm. Am I interpreting your setup guideline correctly? If so, that seems relatively far forward compared to a lot of other guidelines I've run across.
Hi Finn - thanks for the comment - slightly miss understanding but probably my fault. I will share a video on how I do it in the studio accurately. I am now back in after lockdown but if you are able to send me your height, inside seam and foot length then I can give you an approximate for setback of your saddle 👍
@@BulletproofCycling a bit late in replying to this one. Depending on how I measure, I get an inseam of around 855-870mm, height 181cm. Not sure about foot length, but I wear a size 45 Lake wide-fitting shoe. Riding a more traditional 275mm length saddle.
@@finncox23 Thanks - If I take the 870mm height (an average seam for folks at 181cm is around 876mm) I would use a setback on saddle at 216mm from bottom bracket to the 120mm point on the saddle. Obviously just estimates but feel free to give it go. With these estimated numbers I would suggest a starting saddle from BB to top of saddle at 761mm but again these are just estimates on the 870mm seam. Hope this helps.
@@BulletproofCycling Thanks for the reply. I take it these starting points are for normal 172.5mm cranks? Should adjustments be made for shorter cranks (170's, 165's)?
@@BulletproofCycling Scott, how are you getting a saddle to BB distance of 761mm from an inseam of 870mm? 870 x .883= 768mm. Are you subtracting some from that calculated distance just as a starting point?
Hi Scott, great vids. I wonder how much the hip angle changes if you move your saddle forward 5ml and them up 5ml? Each one should open up you hips further but as one requires the other there may be some great benefits for riders with hip impingement who make a small change forward. May even be the difference allowing someone to be able to ride again?
120m from rear to metal. 5m back=5m down, 5m forward=5m up. Maybe stretching too much forward because handlebar is too far forward. Have I got it?
The 120mm point is on your saddle. Rear to 120mm - make a mark on saddle - this is a good neutral point to make your adjustments now as it’s where you are generally sitting 👍👍
I need a hoven to bike 😂
Hey good job, I would like to talk with you is it possible?
Just picked up your message and will reply today 👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling ok no problem thanks
I had inbox you on Instagram maybe u can go there and check it
Buying a new bicycle in today's US market is possible only if you can fit your body to what is available. The insane warring by US oligarchs against Russia and China has limited supplies of frames and other choices. The squandering from our Treasury's printing presses has so devalued the US dollar's purchasing power, that bicycles start in the bike shops at $400, if you can find one to fit you.