Your video is perfect of how to replace wheelbearings, BUT you forgot to show how to replace the Wheelbearing seal. After replacing my bearings I had ABS/BAS/ESP light come on. After serious investigation, Firstly I did not know about the ABS Sensor/pulse Ring in the hub seal. I was told that you MUST be very careful with that ring, Firstly, you must NOT tap it in, you have to press it in, Secondly, you must NOT use a ferrous tool to press it in it has to be plastic/nylon/wood, also depth is important, if gap between sensor and ring is too large, then it won't pick it up, and it HAS to be level/straight. Those things are extremely important to show in your video. I had to purchase a complete kit again, just to get the new sensor ring.
I had a Mercedes Benz S500 (2005) the car had front wheel bearing very loose can,t take on freeway plus the rear airmatic pumps were leaking the pressure also the interior shifter linkage will break cost lots money the car had 140000 kms on it. My BMW 750 LI 2008 has 375000 kms still running great the only problem was stater on winter went it cost me 1200$ because the starter is under rear manifold had to drop down the engine, otherwise the best car . I have a Volvo V 70 (1999) the car has 360889KMS still running and my wife has a Cadillac STS V8 Northstar never had any issue the best GM product. thanks for uploading the repair videos.💞💞
Simple thank you so much. Gonna do this job myself now. Just need to order that one tool to measure that lock nut like you did. But ill be saving myself a few 100 bucks and all ill need after is an alignment.
When measuring the bearing play, one is supposed to pull and push the hub straight out, not wiggle it from side to side. In this video, there would be way too much play. Other than that it’s a decent summary of steps. Thanks.
No one on the internet mentions that you HAVE TO remove the headers to do mounts on a C207 chassis. Ask me how I know.....or you can drop the subframe & remove the engine mount brackets from the block. The top bolts are 100% impossible to remove otherwise. Took around 6 hours just to torque the top bolts down, 1/16 of a turn (at best) at a time. This was with exhaust & alternator removed. I hope you have a w211 & not a c207.
@@OGYELLOW honestly still can't believe it. I kept seeing w204, w212, w211, r171, etc vids of people just removing the heat shield & top bolt & thought it'd be the same. Amazing the tiny differences in clearance from similar chassis. Otherwise, straight forward job as well as tie rods.
If you have no idea how to do correctly wheel bearing play do not... from manual: "Do not TWIST or TILT the wheel hub during measurement.Correct measurement is only possible by pulling and pushing PARALLEL to the wheel a axle."
Great vid I was wondering why some of these bearings have a very thin inner ring that protects the rubber bearing on the inside. Is it a necessary component?
Ok. Those grease caps....I've done every single wear item & common issue (besides esl & comand knob) on my C207 chassis, yet those grease caps were the ONLY thing that defeated me. The special tool that seats it flush all at once was the only successful method. The method used here got me absolutely no where in a time frame you wouldn't believe if I told you. I could have done S65 rod bearings faster. Wish I was joking.
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no one explains the dyi for the w211 models better then you guys this is a great very detailed video
Great and detailed video. Thank you and keep them coming!
Your video is perfect of how to replace wheelbearings, BUT you forgot to show how to replace the Wheelbearing seal. After replacing my bearings I had ABS/BAS/ESP light come on. After serious investigation, Firstly I did not know about the ABS Sensor/pulse Ring in the hub seal. I was told that you MUST be very careful with that ring, Firstly, you must NOT tap it in, you have to press it in, Secondly, you must NOT use a ferrous tool to press it in it has to be plastic/nylon/wood, also depth is important, if gap between sensor and ring is too large, then it won't pick it up, and it HAS to be level/straight. Those things are extremely important to show in your video. I had to purchase a complete kit again, just to get the new sensor ring.
So your saying the reason why my ABS is going crazy is that my spring came out of the seal, so ABS will malfunction
How can I email you for clarification
My friend he didn't show the seal placement, because he replaced it with a new whole assembly. Meaning, hub, bearing and seal are already assembled
I had a Mercedes Benz S500 (2005) the car had front wheel bearing very loose can,t take on freeway plus the rear airmatic pumps were leaking the pressure also the interior shifter linkage will break cost lots money the car had 140000 kms on it. My BMW 750 LI 2008
has 375000 kms still running great the only problem was stater on winter went it cost me 1200$ because the starter is under rear manifold had to drop down the engine, otherwise the best car . I have a Volvo V 70 (1999) the car has 360889KMS still running
and my wife has a Cadillac STS V8 Northstar never had any issue the best GM product. thanks for uploading the repair videos.💞💞
I'm at 274,000 and I THINK it's finally going out 😂 No play, but some noise, I'll find out this weekend when I do my breaks lolol
Simple thank you so much. Gonna do this job myself now. Just need to order that one tool to measure that lock nut like you did. But ill be saving myself a few 100 bucks and all ill need after is an alignment.
When measuring the bearing play, one is supposed to pull and push the hub straight out, not wiggle it from side to side. In this video, there would be way too much play. Other than that it’s a decent summary of steps. Thanks.
He also said 1mm of play when the dial indicator clearly shows about 0.01mm of play. His instructions aren't very good
The correct torque for the nutbolts is 130nm
Please do tie rods next! Oh and engine mounts!!
No one on the internet mentions that you HAVE TO remove the headers to do mounts on a C207 chassis. Ask me how I know.....or you can drop the subframe & remove the engine mount brackets from the block.
The top bolts are 100% impossible to remove otherwise. Took around 6 hours just to torque the top bolts down, 1/16 of a turn (at best) at a time. This was with exhaust & alternator removed. I hope you have a w211 & not a c207.
@@RothBeyondTheGrave w211!!! That sounds wild for you.
@@OGYELLOW honestly still can't believe it. I kept seeing w204, w212, w211, r171, etc vids of people just removing the heat shield & top bolt & thought it'd be the same.
Amazing the tiny differences in clearance from similar chassis.
Otherwise, straight forward job as well as tie rods.
Great video!
These things last a lifetime! Just clean'em repack'em, and adjust them properly. You're set for a long time.
Great video thank you!
Glad you liked it! Appreciate you watching.
If you have no idea how to do correctly wheel bearing play do not... from manual: "Do not TWIST or TILT the wheel hub during measurement.Correct measurement is only possible by pulling and pushing PARALLEL to the wheel a axle."
1 mm Play ? or 0.01 mm play ?
Hi Kowalski, that would be 0.01mm of play.
WIS: 0.01-0.02 mm (about 0.005”)
Great vid I was wondering why some of these bearings have a very thin inner ring that protects the rubber bearing on the inside. Is it a necessary component?
Same procedure for the w211 e55?
Is there a video for a GLK 350?
Ok. Those grease caps....I've done every single wear item & common issue (besides esl & comand knob) on my C207 chassis, yet those grease caps were the ONLY thing that defeated me. The special tool that seats it flush all at once was the only successful method. The method used here got me absolutely no where in a time frame you wouldn't believe if I told you. I could have done S65 rod bearings faster. Wish I was joking.
What is the tool and brand you used to measure the play? Thanks
Change it myself but now i got a nasty vibration everytime i brake ...
With the play is it normal for the wheel bearing to make a click noise when you pull it back and forth?
Can you do the rear bearing for this car?
You shouldn't use a rocking motion when setting the hub bearing, you should use a push and pull motion with both hands.
Great Note!
So new bearing on old races?
My ABS system is giving me problems
Do I need to touqe and use the digital too
What tool do you recommend to do this measurement?
Is a 2008 sl550 the same
Is see the list of cars this works on, is that for parts or is that for the method of changing the bearings? Is the principle the same for a w211 E55?
Hi Nick, the process will remain the same for the most part; hardware sizes and locations may vary on the different models these bearings apply to.
Is it a 4 wheel drive or front wheel?
Hi Therion, this W211 is a RWD model.
the sand does not lubricate
The measurement is absolutly wrong !!!!!! your bearing play is more more more than it should be !!!! Your tool just slide not measure !!!!