The Best Axes in the World
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- this is my reccomendations for anyone looking for a quality working axe in 2021. having used 100s of axes these are what i consider the best to buy
hultafors HY 10/ hults bruk agdor 1.2kg 70cm, 1.5kg 80cm
Council tool sport utility boys axe
Rinaldi Calabria 1.3kg, American 700gram
Ochsenkopf Iltis Canada 1000
Müller Biber Canada 1000
Ending describes why i wouldnt reccomend a Gransfors Bruk American felling axe and why the Basque/ Jauregi axes are no longer reccomended by me due to what appears to be a complete lack of quality control
I did exactly what your advice was for Americans. Started with a council tool boy's axe. Now I restore vintage axes and am very into it. Timber tools are pretty important. It would be ideal if everybody knew how set them up but that's just not reality.
A lot of this stuff is a lost art. It's great to have people on the internet to learn from though. Things seem to be changing a bit. It's a small community that is growing pretty fast.
I always suggest a C.T. boys axes a to someone who is just getting interested in axes. They are great tools and I don't know of any serious collector that doesn't have a couple boys axes.
Great video Ben.
The real shame about Basque is that even with poor quality control they’re probably still worth the money, but you’re absolutely right we should stop buying in protest until they fix the issues, especially the handles and fits.
I would love them to sell kits that have a oversized handle and a head (unattached)
One of the best axe review on RUclips! I have both Hultafors/Hults Bruk and Oxhead Iltis Canada. Both of them are great
Hello from Montreal, Canada!
I agree with you on pretty much everything. I also have tried all the axes except the Vivaldi. I wanted to relay that a council tool 3.5lbs jersey pattern is simply perfect for splitting maple and those "spungie" type woods. There is no clear split in maple...wood fibres keep the 2 pieces stuck together. A maul just sticks like crazy. But the jersey is simply perfect for splitting. The concave pattern is simply fabulous. 😊. My go-to limming axe is a 2.5lbs vintage Montreal pattern on a 26" curved handle. I make my handles out of cherry or apple wood. My grandfather made many, and he showed me the trade.
Anyway, I really enjoyed your video. Thank you 😊
Yeah i also found on certain woods a thinner profile splitting axe or felling axe splits better than a maul. I prefer old Brades/Eagle edge tool co heads though, they are a bit thicker profiled with very convexed cheeks that rarely stick. Marvelous for splitting and bucking. The council tools are a great price for what you get, i prefer the dayton to jersey pattern
I agree that you can buy axes with good potential for low prices if you are willing to adjust and work on them. The most expensive axe I've ever bought was about 45 quid and it works beautifully after I filed the profile down to around 18° and thinned the handle out.
I could heat my house with Ben's chips. Thanks for the vid, Ben. Good to hear of ya
I agree with everything you said, I just wanted to comment to say how magic your chopping is.
It's so precise and well organised that it just feels good to watch.
Cheers, having competition woodchopping trainers has helped me a lot, despite what some say there is a lot in common between the sport and forestry
This is true. Ben doesn't appear to be a big, beefy guy, but he chops like a demon!
@@MartinMMeiss-mj6li Actually 190cm and 85kg, not massive but a lot of people are shocked when they meet me in person. I gues i look smaller on video
@@benscottwoodchopper Tee-hee! I guess that means you're well-proportioned.
I'm totally hooked on vintage axe heads. Finding handles is tough sometimes. I'm more into splitting axes but I've been wanting a good camp axe. I do alot of river trips where I find a place to camp overnight and fish. Firewood is always a real chore.
Same to all of this.
Get the council tool 28” Dayton patterned boys axe.
Thank me later. At $50 it is comparable to any high end axe there is. Even better than some of them.
With the 28” handle you can achieve lots for such a small and light axe. I have a full kit of axes all sizes shapes and purposes.
Council tool boys axe is without a doubt the most utilitarian
Excellent advice Ben
Great recommendations Ben. Collecting and restoring vintage axes aside, its always nice to have a new, well performing budget friendly axe in the stable to use as the workhorse.
Unfortunately I have to agree with you on the matter of basque axes. I bought one recently and the stamp can be hardly seen (almost none) and the handle was slightly twisted. Small issues indeed, but lately they seem to appear more often. Great work with this summarizing video!
Thanks for all you do Ben. Somehow I watched this and jumped on the list for two Tuatahi camp axes.
Great video once again. Thanks Ben
Great advice. And it’s much needed advice. I got into axes and went backwards in a way. I bought a few vintage axes and went kind of crazy lol. I should of slowly worked up to nice expensive axes, but after the few vintage axes I bought and fixed up I went straight into expensive axes. The expensive hand forged axes are really nice but not needed. I love collecting them nonetheless.
i seem to be following the same path myself.
I got into axes from the bushcraft world, which automatically meant I had to have a gransfors but couldnt bring myself to shelling out the dough so I reluctantly but eagerly ended up going the vintage restoration route instead and well as the stories always go, I fell in love with vintage axes.
Now after a few years of axe hunting and restoring, i've built myself a respectable 6 axe collection... nothing crazy compared to other collectors but the handful that i own are all beauties and they happen to cover all my axe needs...
Now I want to complete my collection (though its never truly complete) with a few newly produced modern axes and im finding it hard to not go straight into the premium/boutique route...
I fully understand the high value of the sport utility council axes and value offerings from hults etc etc but I already know my vintage axes outperform the value lines of today and my vintage axes bring me far more joy to use then a modern value liner ever would... so between a sport utility council or another vintage head, its a no brainer to go vintage everytime imo but with that said, I know even modern premium axes arent gonna truly best my vintage ones... for various reasons, mainly geometry related but im still intrigued to try the best of the best thats being made today.
Basically im at the point where if i want a 'new' axe its still tough not to go vintage since theres still so many great deals to be found, but also i really, really want some newly produced axes in my arsenal.
I highly respect council tools entire axe line but I especially like what they're trying to accomplish with the velvicut series by using a premium steel (harpons back to the golden era of vintage axes when manufactures were experimenting with all kinds of production methods to one up the competition) and beyond the velvicut line theirs a few custom/boutique style axe manufactures ive had my eyes on for awhile now, that are truly pricey but imo theyre offering something special/missing from the modern axe market and since scarcity demands value im willing to pay a bit more for certain axe patterns that are true gems to find in the wild
its funny though cause as my knowledge of axes has grown, nowadays besides the gransfors splitting axes theres nothing they offer that I even want since they're just to thin of bits for my general uses in the canadian bush.
within the next year or two ill likely end up purchasing a high end axe or two and then for good measure pick myself up a few sport utility offerings too.
but im fully aware that at this point ive already got myself a handful of vintage axes that will no doubt last me a lifetime, so i know buying premium is a want more then a need... but its one of those wants that keeps on coming back up over and over again every few months to a year whenever the axe bug bites and so far ive tamed the urges to get them buy having vintage patterns/manufactures above the premiums on my short list but now that ive obtained most of the vintage axes ive sought after those premium axes have become more and more intriguing to me.
Thanks for the comparison. I'm trying to decide between the Hultafors and the Agdor Montreal axe for general camping, as they are easy to find and fairly economical in Canada. Generally on camping trips I'm felling and bucking smallish deadwood, mostly spruce and poplar. Occasionally I find larger rounds and need to split them up.
Arms are looking very manly. I gotta get me some sleeveless plaid shirts!
Super video Ben...packed full of useful information and great chopping!
Thank you for this video! I was going to buy a Gransfors large forest axe, but I'll go for the Hultafors HY 10 instead. I'm kind of new to axes but it sounds like a nice place to start.
Excellent video ! Thank you Ben.
Some great info in here and well put together too. Love the 1.2 HB. Good stuff mate
I’m not a bucker, but a splitter. One of my favorite axes is my vintage 4 lb. Shapleigh Diamond Edge. I paid about $30 US and I just saw one for going for about $125.
Great videos. 👍
Another great video as always Ben, just finished modding an HB 1.2kg that I bought based on your recommendations ages ago.
Good ruminations 🙂 My biggest spend will probably be Tuatahi camp ax. I’m using a light Ochsenkopf Iltis, which I have re-profiled and thinned. It’s soft but it does the job and sharpens easily. Cost me £80 or so. I rather like it. Next will be a 1.5kg Basque or a Muller 1250g. Ok, I can spend less on a Bahco or Adler, and make it work. But I’m comfy in the £70-90 range. And heck, if it’s not frustrating to use then you can have a great time and get work done with a cheaper axe. 👍🏻
Be prepared for a nice 4 month wait on that Tuatahi :D
@@veshtitsaaudioworks8736 dang! Not getting it for Christmas then 🙂 I’ll get me turntable instead then 👏 cheers
As my grandaddy said: "The best axe is the one you've got".
Good information, thanks Ben👍🏻
You’re pretty much bang on here. Great advice. I can confirm those Agdor Montreal pattern axes are easy to get for a good price here in Canada. I have the Agdor in 2.5lbs and it’s one my favourite axes for the price. Value is hard to beat. Great all arounder 👌🏼👌🏼
Can you advise where to this in Canada. Am looking but can only find them on website I never heard of
You've got some great videos up on here Ben, thanks for taking the time to make and post them. I only found your channel last night but I've watched a load of your content now and I've subscribed.
I'm kind of gutted to hear you're not a fan of Gransfors. I have a few of their axes and always found them to perform very well. I guess that's what comes of growing up with blunt Chinese wedges attached to a stick - compared to those the Gransfors are amazing. I've never badly broken one and use a diamond file to get nicks out, I thought the hardness was a good thing!
Anyway, now I've watched a load of your videos I think I'm going to get myself a Helko Werk Tasmanian and have a go at filing the edge as you do in your tutorial video. I've got quite good with a Scandinavian forest axe and I'd like to up the weight a little for larger trees, mainly sycamore and ash. I'll let you know how it goes. Keep up the good work!
I made a video review of the helko tasmanian, its not a great axe and very expensive for what you get. Glad you like the channel, if you have any questions happy to help
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks, that's very kind of you. I saw that video. It looked like a good axe to make a project out of until I realised the price! At the moment I do most of my cutting with a Gransfors Scandinavian forest axe (2lb, 25") which feels a bit small. I also have the large American felling axe (3.3lb, 35") but it's too big for me. Vertically it's no bother, but in a felling cut I can't control it properly. I was going to buy the 31" version until I started watching your videos but now I see there are other options which could be better! I was thinking a reasonably heavy head on a shorter handle would be easier to control horizontally, but heavy heads on short handles seem few and far between. I'd really welcome your suggestions. I like the look of the Tasmania pattern head or a traditional American - I have quite a few of the smaller Gransfors/Swedish style heads already.
@@njc110381 hultafors hy10, 1.5kg 32" handle is perfect
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks. I'll get one ordered
@@benscottwoodchopper These seem to be out of stock everywhere. How about the Arvika? Bit heavier but the same length - just working my way through your videos to see if you've done one on it!
The money is not a problem for thoses who have a little collection of axes ive buy approximately 10 axes in 6 years and i have no regrets . Gba , wetterling, husqvarna ,hultafors ,h.roselli , council tool , cold steel , fiskars , tuatahi .
Let’s go back in time, half a century. To get your Boy Scout Merit badge for axe work, your first two hit shad to pop out that perfect V, or you failed. I still love chopping wood, nice video.
Hi, enjoy ur vids, I gather old ax heads re handel & usually give away. I'm old so I like a palm swell, on the rinaldi handle, shave sides flat, glue & pin swell blocks, shape as desired. Can't change handle out, but if breaks in field change it out.
As far as vintage heads go ive found that daytons and Michigan's are a more economical option as long as they dont have a stamp lots of people want.
In Aus, we are blessed with an abundance of Jarrah wood, I'm thinking Tasmanian pattern Hultafors 2kg, stuff is so hard and tough
Got the council tools boys axe. The handle split on my third time using it. Disappointed and unsure whether to purchase from them again.
Unfortunately thats just a reality with all wood handles. Seen it happen with all brands expensive and cheap. Its a natural material
@@benscottwoodchopper Thank you for the quick reply. I'm looking for a replacement axe, but don't know which to settle on.
@@TheAfroNoah I'd get a replacement handle and rehang it
Ty for this vid. I have been getting into axe work and feel much better informed now. My gransfors felling axe is good for carving and ok for chopping but my Husqvarna hachet way out performed it now that I have a 20 angle on her. I got a $25 powerfist axe that has been filed and ready for work. It was a tough one to get ready it could be stainless and is helping me find out what angle I like before I put one on my gransfors.
I guess I'm lucky as far as vintage heads go. I've not paid for one and have several. Three double bits ....one cruiser , four Jersey patterns , few Connecticut heads and a couple of US forestry axes from grandparents. Most are in good condition and I enjoy working on them. I did but a Collins boys axe a month ago and I've had a cheap felling axe for years that I've rehung . That's the only two I've bought.
Havent clicked on a vid so fast I ripped a hole in reality.
Make that two holes in reality.
Excellent as always brother 👍🏽👍🏽👌🏽👌🏽😎
You chopping leaves the cleanest cuts I have seen on youtube
I’m trying to put together a set of axes that will cover everything from splitting to bushcraft. I would like high quality axes. Please advise. Another great video.
Husqvarna A2400, 2 aluminium splitting wedges and a biber canada 1000g for chopping.
@@benscottwoodchopper awesome. Thank you. Any advise on what brand of aluminum wedges?
@@johnseropyan stihl or ochsenkopf. Wedges are great because the husqvarns A2400 has a hardened poll and with them combined you can split anything
@@benscottwoodchopper sir there are several different variation of the biber canada 1000. Any particular model?
Thank you so much for your time and help. Cheers from US
@@johnseropyan theres only 2 biber Canada 1000s, ash and hickory handle. i dont think it matters
Well done on an excellent vid Ben. Being an Australian farmer I have always had a good Hytest or some other Tassie pattern behind the seat of the work truck but really not used anything else, so I have enjoyed seeing other patterns put through their paces and your opinion of them. I have been looking at the modern Russian bearded styles like Fenix and Toporsib and wondering how effective they are for real use and would love to see you test and compare some. I can see a Tuatahi camp axe on a full sized handle being my next purchase, they look to be a excellent tool.
G'day mate, good to see a fellow Aussie in the comments. Same thing about the old reliable Hytests, I knew bugger all about other axe patterns till I started finding channels like Ben's, Owens and Kevin's. There's a couple of vids on my channel if your interested. I've recently put together a Tui on a 750mm handle, and after just a few days of testing I can say it's definitely worth doing!
Hey Ben! I wanted to ask if you have any experience with Brant & Cochran Allagash axe or any of the axes they sell? Would love to see you do a review on one of those. Keep the videos coming we love them.
They seem like nice axes, just a bit more than i like to spend on an axe that isnt for racing with
@@benscottwoodchopper I can respect that. I’ve got a collection of cheaper council tools all the way up to semi custom Hoffman axes. I was looking to add this one to my collection since I don’t have a premium axe in this size. Still more then a Gransfors tho 🤮
long waited video. very informative. if would be great to add side by side geometry photo comparison of these mentioned axes, or geometry almost identical except Rinaldi.?
The rinaldi calabria, council tool and hultafors are all wedge shaped. The rinaldi american, müller and ochsenkopf are all thin flat axes
@@benscottwoodchopper and what about local your country axe manufacturers, do you have such models in your collection to compare with? Tala?
@@woxiduswoxidus1167 theres no axe makers left here, just old ones
A Council Tool boys axe just arrived to me today. It is hanged dead straight. 2021 dated head. Very cool.
Vintage axes are getting rare now in the states especially after COVID as everyone is snatching them up for projects.
Also disappointed in the CT 3.5 lb Jersey with sticking. Not much else available in the states that’s new.
Funny how it’s so hard to find a current production full size American style felling axe in America.
Will you do a hatchet video later?
They are there. Let people know you're interested in them. They'll show up for nothing. I'm sure you did find some.
Hi Ben! I really love your videos, I’ve learned so much! I bought an axe because of you, but I bought a mAul and a felling axe. I saw your video on sharpening for geometry cuts, but wasn’t sure if it applied for mauls too. Do I sharpen the splitting maul the same way I would a felling axe? Thank you!
The mail I bought is the prandi merlin
for mauls the edge doesnt matter that much, if you want to you can keep it reasonably sharp with a file but as long as its not got huge edge damage from hitting rocks its fine
I enjoyed your video and your expertise, but I don't understand why you pose the belt sander as the only alternative to a file when it comes to harder steel. I used a bench grinder and coarse carborundum stones for re-profiling and nick removal, then switch to finer whetstones and stropping. That has been standard practice for a long time.
bench grinder is a lot harder to use to get a even grind on the edge. There's a lot of danger of putting dimples and concaves. if you can do it fair enough but a belt sander makes the job so much easier
Hi ya Ben, how you gettin on with the Tahini from 3yrs ago please?
Do you use Coustom on length of handels or standard.
Many thanks Paul 23.24 gmt Uk cheers
review after 2 years here ruclips.net/video/kforyzj92vM/видео.html
Can anybidy help me locate a Rinaldi Calabria in 1.3kg in the UK?
I can see the axe heads for sale on ebay, but not the larger sizes, and ideally id want to buy it with a handle
Any help would be really appreciated
How you feel abt the husqvarna 26” axe with wood handles? Looks like a granfors (spelling?) way more expensive axe and hand made in Sweden it says?
The whole hand made label is nonsense in the case of most axes inc gransfors so dont see that as a sign of qaulity. The husqvarna is essentially identical in the ways that matter but im not a fan of this swedish stlye of axe. The edge length is to narrow at 3.5" which makes overlapping cuts more difficult and limbing harder. The heads are a bit too light to be effective also
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks for the reply Ben! Your the man!
Enjoyed that cheers. Any good suppliers for handles in the uk you could recommend?
I buy ochsenkopf handles or get faithful ones. they are hit and miss. woodsmith experience sells gransfors and smedbergs which are thick but can be thinned down into nice handles
@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks for the reply mate its appreciated
Whats your opinion about the new Husqvarna German type universal axe? I think its a rebranded German company axe ..I own a spalt fix Oschenkopf sthil rebranded axe for spliting logs which is a beast.
The swedish rebranded Hults Bruk and Wetterlings Husqvarna axes in my opinion were the best value/money axe you could buy if you had the knowledge and dedicate the absolute needed time to reshape -resharpen and thinning the handle a bit. I bought at distant 2014 a Wetterlings with no sings "Husqvarna" universal axe which I still own and perfoms remarkably for the 35 euros Ive paid...
The husqvarna german axes look fine to me, havent tried one though. I also love the spalt fix, great axe
Why not use a low grit/coarse diamond plate instead of a file? They take off material surprisingly fast and they need less pressure, just got to wipe them with a cloth periodically during use. I've been using those for a couple of years to reprofile my choppers which are hard enough to make file use difficult.
even the coarsest stones or diamond plates aren't as fast as a file and cost a lot more than a good vallorbe file. I have some and dont really like or use them all that much
Interested that you have such a different take on vintage axes. But you also said you don't have many around you. Here in Australia there are so so many. If you are interested I could organise to send you some. I've got all the "modern" axes I want. Still a few antique axes and Japanese axes I'm chasing. A French Doloire for example.
If you have a nice old australian felling axe head thats got little to no wear on the edge id be interested. they make good racing axes when ground thin
@@benscottwoodchopper I don't because I try and avoid "collecting". But every Sunday market there are a few dozen.
@@benscottwoodchopper Market's rained out today, sorry.
@@ChestnutnagsToolsFromJapan no worries, just if you see something very good in the future that would be cool
Hello Mr Scott,
Very interesting video, as always. Watching your videos has got me very excited to get back to some felling 'n that this fall.
I'm currently doubting if I should get a muller classic 1,2 kg forest axe type, or a basque 1,5 kg (yeah, a shame of the quality drop, but they're so unique that I'd love to have one). Wanna use it kinda as an alrounder (except for splitting). Would you recommend one over the other?
Thanks in advance.
depends, is the average tree size going to be quite small and softwood or hardwoods?
@@benscottwoodchopper what we are allowed to take down around here is mostly (what I would personally call) medium type hardness. Not as soft as pine, but no beech or oak either. Birch and alder are most common. The max diameter is gonna be around 30cm, but most 'll be a lot smaller than that, 'round 15cm. But their is a lot of variation every year, depending on what part of the forest they want thinned out.
Thanks for the reply
@@jacobdecraene2700 yeah I'd go for the Muller then.
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks a lot. Sorry to bother you man, but I thought it d be wise to hear the advise of someone with more experience. Thanks again, really appreciate it.
@@jacobdecraene2700 no worries, anytime
Any opinion on the Rinaldi Trento? I love mine, but I can't swing too hard on big diameter wood due to the very deep bite the Trento has so I just use light swings at good angles.
I just put up a video on a trento by prandi, its essentially the same axe
@@benscottwoodchopper Excellent! Thanks very much.
Excellent video. By the way what are those boots you are wearing?
So you recomend the beaver 1000? Are the other weights ok profile wise as well?
yes I have a 1500g muller also, great profile
Hey Friends, try to be nice to your backs out there. I heard it when I was younger and didn't listen but TRUST ME a bad back never gets better and it really lowers your quality of life. I"ll shut up cause no one wants to be nagged but I hope you use your head out there and lift with your legs and not your back. Also watch out when you get tired, all my really bad cuts, sprains, and breaks happened when I was overworked and overtired.
Japanese water stones work well on hard steels. I use them on my axes.
The “in every hardware store” in America is all the collins it’s seems. I’m not a fan but they sure are common here.
Keech Timberman KC23 is highly rated in AUS hardwoods, with a proper grind.
so, i dont want to spend a ton of money on an axe. Then I run into the problem of having to modify it and whatnot. idk what to do
you have to modify the ones you spend a ton of money on too. If you cant afford the time to modify or learn how to use, then an axe is not the choice you want to be making as a option
@@benscottwoodchopper well ive got the time for sure but it seems like such a project id f up
@@Cam-et9xs nah its easy. And buying an expensive axe and then learning to sharpen on that when it inevitibly becomes blunt is daft
My basque axe looked horrible it come from bushcraft Spain and the finish on the head was horrible it come sharp but looked bad
No love for the Helko Werk's line of axes? I love mine.
Helkos are good steel but thier felling axes are premium price but take a ridiculous amount of filing to get them to cut good and thier handles generally are far too thick and take a lot of thinning to get them to absorb shock. The brands i mention are all cheaper than helko and perform far better with less work needed to get them tuned ruclips.net/video/g-vT4XPwRZw/видео.html
You can get a top quality axe head from a trash and treasure market for stuff all. You can get one with a reasonable handle for not much more.
depends on the country and even state. it varies. Here getting a good old axe from a market is difficult to non existent. Handles arent cheap either. typically together the cost equals or exceeds the cost of a new hultafors axe. Some people in the states tell me though that they have good luck for $5. One of my good old axes was found at work but that was a complete fluke
What’s the best axe for first timer, (without breaking the bank) thnx
Any from the video
I would just like to add for camping/trekking/bushcraft light weight axe avoid all "premium" axes they are all over priced and have some sort of handicap from what I can tell. The Hultafors/Gransfors are hard to grind with mediocre fit and finish and the council tools premium have a pretty short handle at 24". Its all marketing from what I can tell.
Yup, marketing and aesthetics
Man I still want that tassi so bad which I knew who had it now
Honestly wasn't that great to chop with. I greaty prefer brades/eagle edge tool co 1562 yankee patterns, better performance
great video!
So which axe is that specifically that's pictured at 13:25 ?
www.radmoretucker.co.uk/shop/forestry-landscaping-equipment/forestry-tools/axes-hatchets/muller-hand-forged-beaver-broad-felling-axe-70cm-ash-shaft/
Bloody good video m8
No Gardena or Fiskars with the synthetic handles?
That's what I prefer.
No handle's going loose.
For daily work this is nice. And if they break(which isn't that common), the warranty is there.
I know of your broken one.
But that's a fluke for sure. A lemon.
I also agree on no need for expensive axes.
It's with knives the same.
You have the Busse and BRKT lovers.
Give me a Mora and a Fiskars hatchet, and/or a low priced machete and you're done deal.
There's a lot of near fetishism with many objects. Whether they are axes, knives, cars, cloths.
People love to give their special (expensive)tools supernatural powers.
Gandalf would be jealous of them with his old worn out staff 😋😁😂.
the gardena/husqvarna is my all time favourite axe, this list is more specifically chopping axes though not splitters
@@benscottwoodchopper
Does your Gardena/Husqvarna not chop? Is it splitting only focused.
I know the Fiskars X17 has the splitter profile, but it is a decent chopper as well.
Some perform both nicely.
@@Ve-suvius yeah it chops okay but not in the same league asthe other axes i mentioned in the video
@@benscottwoodchopper
Ok,
the blade grind is maybe a little on the fat/wide side.
@@Ve-suvius yeah plus i prefer wood for dedicated choppers because you cang beat a customised handle
My experience with USA, Swedish, and New Zealand axes I prefer Tuatahi.
I sense a great disturbance in the force, as if a billion souls cried out "fuck that guy, ima get me a GB. They're the real deal!"
Also, did you get those China heads you mentioned?
the tuatahi china heads? yeah got quite a few of them, ground one and its great
@@benscottwoodchopper cool. Wanna sell me one? 😉
@@rogerharvey9863 sure, ill give you a heads up when i get round to grinding one again,
I got yealled at cause i made a post talking about hoffman axes and their geometry and how they are sticky while chopping... i got told by hoffman that my comment was defamation and other people chimed in and told me i was a moron and got like 6 messages saying the same thing... my comment was in no way defamatory. At all. Saying anything negative about his axes and you get chewed out and yelled at... i cant be the only one? I personally admire liam and think his axes are beautiful... now i know not to offer any constructive criticism cause you'll just be accused of defamation and slander.
I have to agree with you. Also his work is objectively inferior due to the hammer marks left in. Each to thier own, but look at a hoffman compared to a tuatahi and tell me what is the better value for money
@@benscottwoodchopper very well said! I'm happy that im not crazy... its good to know you feel the same way
I think u r 1 of the guys who was chopping trees in the Sahara that’s why there is no more trees lol 😂
What the heck are you talking about? Gransfor is best and my axe puck works fine sharpening it
And I’ve cut down large trees with my wilderness hatchet with ease I couldn’t image what there felling axes could do.
And all the videos I’ve seen comparing gransfor compliment there blade being thing and hard. By far best quality metal and workmanship.
Hultz bruk #2
My experience says differently. A good axe should be able to be file sharpened and gransfors have thick edges with overly thick handles that cause injury when used for hours. Genuinely trying to help. Not being funny but compare how much actual work i do with my axes compared to other reviewers
@@benscottwoodchopper idc about other reviewers
i officially own a HB agdor and i can defiantely say the quality of metal is not near as good and the handle can be fixed, just like the gransfor can be sharpened it just takes time.
im not saying it has to be your fave,
im saying gransfor is by far the best quality axe u can buy.
comes perfect, imo right out of the box EXQUISITE.
@ethan mcdonald i disagree, they are far from perfect out of the box and are quite poor performing compared to a lot of less expensive axes. Have you tried Rinaldi or Muller axes? As for best quality axe you can buy = Tuatahi
@@benscottwoodchopper never tried rinaldi but there a totally different head, and never even heard of them till now, and muller looks like average quality steel...as for the last are those not competition axes?
im not super experienced with axes.... but so far out of box test.... my gransfor wildy hatchet did far far far better cutting down trees and even splitting sadly than the hultz bruk agdor did....which is a full sized axe.
and i will be filing tht thing for hours getting the gring marks out and angle right. however for 100$ less than gransfors forest axe once its done it will be good.
BUT the steel is still far less hardened, and is clear a good blacksmith is better than a machine any day. but i will have to try that rinaldi maybe ill get one. thx
@@ethanmcdonald5899heres quite a bit of footage of mullers, rinaldis and other cheap/restored axes chopping. Also fyi gransfors forging technique isnt that unique, muller makes them the same way so does rinaldi. The hultafors need about half an hour of filing to get them to outcut any gransfors ruclips.net/video/N3XO1GtewhQ/видео.html
It would be nice if he printed the brands names since I'm not sure what he's actually saying. Too mumbly and heavy accent.
It's a shame about the Basque axes.
Yeah, people are still getting good ones but it just seems to be potluck at the moment. hopefully things become more consistent and then i would happily recommend them again
Yeah, it's a shame cause the only way to have a good one with 100% reliability it's to buy directly from Mr. Jauregi.
And he's not going to sell outside the EU due to the paperwork and troubles that involves.
For shure i'll never consideer buying one from Bushcraft Spain (hardware store axes with a 100€ surplus).
And just to clarify, i agree with you, there are better options in your case... all axes you've commented seems to be quite nice.
Estwing all the way
I'd be careful using an estwing axe for too long, high risk of tendonitis!
How about Tasmanian pattern axes for felling Australian Hardwood?
Nobody really makes a good tassie anymore. The helkos and hults bruk tassies arent that good especially for the money. In any case dayton/ yankee pattern is a fine substitute. Bushie Kurt is a good guy to ask for a reccomendation for Australian wood