What Makes an Axe High Quality?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 дек 2020
- This video is what I am concerned with when choosing to buy a new axe and also what I don't feel is necessary to pay for. Many reviewers care how an axe performs out of the box, but I think this is a poor perspective which misses out on the potential of certain axes. I prefer to sharpen and thin handles myself, but when I am paying 3, 4 or even 5 times the cost of a standard Ochsenkopf, Council tool, Rinaldi or Hultafors for essentially the same axe with the same geometry, thick handle and thick grind, then what is the benefit? What I do look for primarily is optimal geometry for the intended use of the axe, as this is the hardest if not impossible issue to resolve. This is my unfiltered opinion, if you cant handle an axe review of differing opinion then you probably need to take a concrete pill and harden up
Check these guys out, if you like my vids you will like thiers:
Kevin: / @kevinsdisobedience
Life behind the axe: / @lifebehindtheaxe3835
Simon: / mrdesmostylus
Owen: / elemental4rce
I’m not a mass producer but want to make the best possible tool I can. Old patterns were developed for people who lived by the proven performance of those patterns. Great vid
Thanks for the shoutout, Ben. I pretty much agree 100%. You know we disagree slightly about sharpness and handle thickness, but in essence you’re experience speaks to mine as well. Great video with the cutaways!
Congrats on 2k followers!
Good video, love the new “studio” 😊
Good points you make here. Especially on the desired hardness.
Thanks for your simple easy to understand information. You rock
Thank you, as always your content is spot on
Excellent video . And it’s about time some honesty was brought up regarding the inflated prices of certain brands . I love the fact that you emphasise the tan axe is just a tool . Nothing more . There’s too much of Mears still surrounding certain makes . I use an Italian Prandi 800gram head . Under £40 and for what I need it’s been flawless . 👍.
You truly are a wealth of information Mr.Ben! And you speak from tons of axe experience! I've been looking thru your videos and the way you toss an axe around with such accuracy and consistency is world class bruv! Stay awesome Mr.Ben and thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience with us! Cheers, Jerbs 👍🏽🇨🇦
Kizz butt much do ya? 🤗🤣🤗
Thank you for making videos!
great video, Buddy .. you have lots of axe knowledge. And you do not just talk about the axes, you actually use them. That's cool!
Great info, thanks!
Great Video Ben :)
Your videos are a goldmine of wisdom and useful information. Thank you so much. If you want your channel to grow I would invest in only one thing really and that is audio. Keep everything else. You know what you're talking about and the world of axe men need to know its not all about gransfors bruks (I have 3 and I'm feverishly shaving down the handles)
I really appreciate Ben. Big stuff coming soon....
Spot on vid mate. Agree especially about the old head designs, I don't know why modern makers don't seem to look at what worked in the past and bring a few back. Good job on the shoutouts too
Maybe its easier to mass produce flat axes, but Jauregi can do it at a reasonable price so why not?
@@benscottwoodchopper exactly. And given the rise in popularity of older axes I reckon they're missing out on a market.
Great video!
I would have to disagree with you on the manufacturing process. Cast steel parts are always inferior in toughness, compared to forged and machined/ground. My experience included with some cast hammers, one axe, a whole bunch of power tool and engine parts. Where there is high stress, forging and machining/grinding rule over casting. Other than that, your points are spot on! I really liked that you mentioned the hardness. 50-55 hrc is just right for an axe.
That depends on the steel first, Second if if the material is to be heat treated then it makes no difference. 3d Yes Carbon steel, can get stronger with forging but also, a failure, may occure because of so many more reasons, that is hard to know without checking and without a lot of experience. Some steels, come with flaws from the mill, also some heat treatments fail. Some factory belts are very fast and raise the heat so high that destroy it's heat treatment. So, you are right adn wrong in the same time. you can't know, and as I said, it's not always, Austenitic stainless steel for instance will gain nothing with forging... That's why you may see written sometimes, that what you said, is a Myth. it is, and it isn't in the same time, it all depends on many more factors, that the common user can't know.
That was an excellent video Ben
Fireside chat is rather lacking an armchair and a Jameson
@@benscottwoodchopper Good content and advice makes up for lack of Jameson
I used to LOVE thicker handles, and when I did, I was mostly splitting - as I started getting into chopping and felling more and more - I took every single axe and thinned out the handle…LOL. Now I just buy miners straight handles from EBay in a lot (20-28”) and they come THICKKK and thin them down - esp for the older American Yankee, conn, Jersey and Michigan patterns from true temper, Kelly (wood slashers) plumb National style and rafters - amazing on straight miners handles…
Your bang on the money about axe's which are too hard. Try touching up a Gransfors axe with a chainsaw file when your out in the woods! Congrats on the 2k subs and thanks for sharing your hard earned experience.
thank you, someone has to say these things! Only axes I like super hard are competition axes, the rest, if i cant file it I don't want it
I filed my gb axe yesterday. It works just fine
@@larsvab3690 must have a softer one than mine, mine was like glass, same with a hultafors classic. Harder than my racing axes
@@benscottwoodchopper if it really bothers you, take the heads off the handles, clean up the cheeks with some sandpaper and place them on an electric stove top. You're aiming for a really dark hay colour-close to brown. That will draw the temper back enough so you can file it. If you want numbers, it's around 260 degrees celsius. Once it gets to temp, take it off and set it on some wood and let it cool down. Congratulations, you've finished the job you paid for!
@@Fogyt121 or just put them on ebay, get most of your money back lol
I'm so glad I found this video, you've earned yourself a sub and a like from me
Nice video. Not sure if I missed it but have you ever done a video on your workwear mainly your shoes and pants? Mainly what you look for and what's most important
I might do that, there's a few things I am quite impressed with
Many thank's to share your knowledge! Not long ago I buyed a hultafors qvarfot axe, form the classic line. I have learned that the hardness of the steel is 59 HRC. Would you say that will make a big difference for the speed of sharpening, compare to the 56 HRC you mentionned?
Keep it up!
59 is too hard, most files dont cut it. you need belt sanders with zerconian belts, hardly convenient
Thank you.
I like my vintage HB axes, the hardness of them doesn't matter since I usually overheat them a bit when re doing the edge.
Good advise
I do totaly agree on the axe hardness! Nothing wost than lossing your day resharpening after getting a big dent on the edge.
I like that you specifie that your speeking of chopping when giving your point of view on handle thicknees. Personaly I préfère handles way thickers then what you like. I would say that comes mostly because of the task you have to do with an axe, if you start hewing, doing joinery... a thicker handle is a lot nicer.
I'd like to ad for the point that there is still some good axe company thats true for some felling/foresty pattern axe. For more specific carpenter axes ou need to go for small blacksmith or antique axe.
Mueller still make some interesting carpenters axes, what are your thoughts on them?mueller-hammerwerk.at/produkt-kategorie/zimmermannswerkzeug/
@@benscottwoodchopper the one I haved used werent that great the "ringed" wen using them. And still there is only German style (especialy the sideaxe) witch are good moslty on pine, if you work on oak they are less intressing (that's mostly quite personal on that point)
@@benscottwoodchopper just relooked their catalogue, was a bit harsh they do have some choice, not at all what I like but thats not the point.
Great vid !
As to the hardness of the harder steel of the Swedish axes. Will the harder steels withstand chopping Hard things like HARD FROZEN wood and spruce limbs ?
Harder steel tends to be more brittle, quite common to see swedish axes shatter
About axehandle thickness, 2017 i thinned down my Ash Handle on my 900 g axe. (from accepting all the american crazy toughts with their thin hickory handles, but my fault) It was ridicously thin, about 15 mm widht and 35 mm Height.
It did not break from all my chopping and i had no idea how to chop at all! I made powerful swings, with no accuracy.
(But its only 900 g)
Now if i had hit the log sideways, it would break for sure.
Dropping truths 🤯 haha! Nothing controversial there as far as I'm concerned
Nice suound examples for star wars 😄
Oooo controversial love it. The 2.5lber Brades I got from Owen really makes me wish some company could get the dyes and make them they'd make a killing even if they were just machined with half decent steel. Be great. Also I agree a lot with the small smiths just being like epic swag viking axe bro! Literally every blacksmith at Plumpton college like they arent actually interested in making a useful axe just something that looks cool but because they've made it just to look cool it just ends up being quiet lame. Like charring the handle as well.
is it similar to the one I use? if so I would agree, best light axe Ive ever used and wipes the floor with everything else
@@benscottwoodchopper Yes that's the one it's got an Oschenkopf handle on it he thinned down lol traded him that Elwell 6 and a miners axe for something that's actually useful xD It's very similar handling to the Hults classic Akka or Wetterlings fine forest but better chopping and probably splitting tbh. Lol 2.5lbers are like a bus for me, see none for ages then all of a sudden got three of them.
@@ajaxtelamonian5134 had that experience recently, nothing but clapped out brades heads for months then a bunch of great condition shit comes along, had to buy it
@@benscottwoodchopper Haha yeah that's the way it goes lol Got a big bushcraft campout coming up got a Big fallen Oak section that sheared off for firewood too so it should get a good test run.
Have you ever handled an axe from Kharkiv Forge / Fadir Tools? Any opinions would be appreciated. Not much information out there.
Unfortunately not
What axe do you suggest for basic all around work, besidesSplitting?. Around 250 American?
Check out my latest video, it has what you asked
I’d like to see a Stohler in your hand.
I imagine withsuch large polls they would feel similar to a double bit in balance
@@benscottwoodchopper yes they certainly do, make for a good splitting profile in a 4-6 pound range but also were famed to be good choppers and pop chips well. I love old tool design. Performance was paramount!
Whats the brand of the racing axe?
What i dont like with GB Handles is that their handles seem to be much bigger than the eye they go in. They could make them thinner since they are using Hickory, its comparable to Beech, nearly as resistant to flexing (lifeless).
Atleast if they want to keep their thick handles they should make their eyes bigger so the axe does not look so weird with the relativly small eye and the thick handle. (But i can only see them on Videos)
I think the Eyes from Müller or Prandi (i take them as an example since i have them personally) are much better dimensioned. The wood right under the eye goes nearly straight away.
But i can see them also being to thick if you chop long, which i do not.
To be honest they should use Beech or Ash and not be importing so much Hickory.
@@ajaxtelamonian5134 I had the same opinion, until i bought my first Hickory handled Axe, now i dont care anymore about the Issues that Imports make and just want Hickory, the strongest Wood for Handles.
Fireside chat. Nice!
Thick handles, you should see what Stubai ships with... are these designed as wedge bangers? As for profile every axe I have doesn't go passed 20/22 degrees (GB included) is there a reason why they beef up axe profiles?
Helko tasmanian is by far the thickest handle, baseball bat. Axes can go a lot thinner but makers send them out steeper ground because people do dumb stuff and blame the axe
@@benscottwoodchopper true, btw just bought my 1st Rinaldi 305. Not normally the style I go for. I know you speak highly of them.
This is the way. Half the fun of owning an axe is customizing it to my needs. If I want something that works out of the box, I've got two Husqvarna chainsaws.
I have been collecting “Plumb” brand from here in the USA……I think they are fair quality working axes and usually have a fair price….just picked up a double bit for 70 dollars..it was made in the 1950’s and it shows absolute minimum wear……..
What do you think about the lamaca axes?
will get a chance to test them soon. Initial reaction though is that they are good but extremely expensive
What axe is the one at 4 mins, it’s long and lean, beautiful
Rinaldi 302 700 gram
Tuatahi and Gransfor Bruks my choices
What is the blue axe you're using at about 6:30 ?
Muller Biber Extra Wide
The hultafors axes either class use the same steel. And the standard ones are better work tools. The premium versions are aimed at bushcraft, knife community. Not forestry workers. The standard versions have perfect grain orientation. Gransfors bruks have their marketing done through. RUclips
maybe the same steel but thier tempering process must be different, love their cheaper axes, but the expensive ones are too hard
Ben i wanted your opinion on the geometry of my Double bit .... could you make the time ? I pay for your time....
Sure, dont be silly no cost. Send me a few pics scott.ben60@yahoo.co.uk
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks Scott! I went ahead and emailed you. Thank you for taking the time to help me.
15:02 Yes that would be good, unfortunately some Companies use Pros and RUclipsrs for Advertising only.
ruclips.net/video/IpiC3DXsq1U/видео.html at 00:30
lol, look at this!
Wranglerstar got some different Axes from Prandi (german and scandinavian splittingmauls) a few years ago.
He "tested" them and praised them (as he does everything he owns, its always the best). After this video you never saw it again, until his Video about which axe he would choose: His Husqvarna axehead came loose and so did his Prandihead...The Genius that he his, he blamed them for not knowing how to wedge them.
But one can clearly see that both dried out, since the wedge was still plane with the handlewood on both axes. There is not a big chance the wedge can slip upwards if it is fixed with a good Ringwedge.
Of course the Gransfors Bruks axe won, since they are the "best". (The one he oiled over the years)
The funny thing is later the GB head came loose, in Summer he said.
With this ass and his 1,5 mio subs he has so much reach to infulence his american viewers at what to buy.
All these hand forged axes are not better forged. The standard axe are are made by putting a piece of stock steel heated up and a massive press is dropped on the stock several times, and the head is punched out. Then the waste from around the shape of the head is cut away. Then the eye is punched out. The head is run over a linisher, then sharpened. The press that forge the head puts over 50 ton of pressure to the head. Hand made is put under a power hammer. So have not been forged with greater force. They take minutes to make. Watch how Gransfors make them. It takes minutes. The small forest axe i bought had several steps in the grind. Not convexed. It was poor. It's going back. Bought a Husqvarna instead!
Yeah its just marketing nonsense to justify the price
@@benscottwoodchopper it wasn't to long ago they slagged the old kent patterns off because you could see the hammer marks in them. They couldn't even finish them off! They said they were cheaply made , unfinished axes! Firms like wetterlings and Hultafors made the standard axes then, which were finished on a linisher! Then people said they preferred the old vintage makers, like Elwell, so they started to make theirs with hammer marks because they were cheaper to make. Now they are marketed as premium range. What i like about your channel Ben, is that you keep it real! Keep it up!
I heard council tool boy's axe is 1080 steel now.
I don't think I've encountered any cast axe heads. All the vintage axes I've seen are made by some kind of forging, typically either a mix of hand and machine forging like I've seen for jauregi or drop forged. Can you give me an example of a cast axe?
Note that axes made before ~1900 might be marked "cast steel" but that does not mean they were cast into shape. Rather it refers to a method of making steel that creates a higher quality product than the older blister and shear steel, and arguably better than bessemer steel. The axe would still have been forged.
Keech
@@benscottwoodchopper very interesting! Thanks.
The council tools axes are junk? I was looking at buying a velvicut® 4# premium American felling axe for $350 for my first premium axe to do some heavy tree clearing/trail building and wood splitting in Canada. Sounds like you are advising against that?
Yeah do not buy the velvicut axes. Its overpriced nonsense. Get the cheaper line of boys axe
@@benscottwoodchopper ok I was also looking at the large 4.5lbs agdor felling axe arvika 5 star, or the cheaper options of the agdor 3.5lbs felling axe or the alder premium 31.5 inch American felling axe. I already have a smaller cheap light wedge axe for all my small work but I need something for cutting up some decent size petrified and green wood and it's quite far to pack a chainsaw, about a 6hr hike. I appreciate your advice because I was on the wrong path of what I should get earlier today
@@tjpighin the agdor 3.5lb axe is the best of the lot, if you can get them go for it.
@@benscottwoodchopper ok thanks
07:44 For what GB Axe is this handle?
American felling axe
@@benscottwoodchopper Thank you, the Poll looks small.
same deal with scythes, other hand tools. Shittier production, more money.
Shit if you called council tool steel soft and on accident i hit a cider block and chopped it and half and i didnt even need to sharpen my axe than swedish steel must be built like a brick shit house.....aka strong for no reason. Not saying bad tools but def not worth 3 times as much if not more.
soft steel is pretty damn hard lol! I've accidentally hit rocks with my council tool, nothing 5 minutes with a file couldnt fix
@@benscottwoodchopper i didnt even have to do that i hit it with a stome is all and it was ready to do. Granite i think u got ur axes a more acute angel than i got mine.
@@liammcelvarr4859 yeah mine was filed as thin as possible
Wow it sure seems you have an axe to grind.😁 Different strokes for different folks mate.😉 And you do a very poor job by running down the Swedish offerings. Something just doesn't hang true with you. 😁 You do make some good points when you stop running down others. Think of that in the future.🤔🤔🤔
Cope and seethe