On certain customers engines we remove the balance shafts and block the applicable oil feed galleries with no ill effects. However the complete rotating assembly, pulleys and all needs to be balanced and you can still rev them reliably over 8k.
I will definitely leave mine in, because I use my 4G63T daily. Now I would like to hear about the oil squirters because mine Outlander Turbo didn't came with ones.
i got the gsc race balance shaft delete kit, have loved it so far, no problems. not sure if it actually does a good job supporting the oil pump compared to the stubby, but it gives me a little peace of mind
I removed the balance shafts from my 2.4L Mitsubishi derived engine (from the 90s). It had 2 counter balancing shafts in some kind of housing. I just removed the housing, plug the oil hole and that's it. The vibration is unnoticeable with the right motor mount durometer and you get extra oil capacity in the oil pan.
NVH equipment. Typically comfort is the last concern when building a performance engine. We delete them from the SRT4 engines so the chain can't break and destroy your engine.
A Toyota 5S-FE in a '94 Camry with balance shafts is rated at 93kw, the same engine in the '94 Celica without balance shafts is rated at 100kw - that should give you a pretty good idea of the power loss from balance shafts.
The balance shafts are also an issue on the 4d56T, from what I remember it’s not uncommon for the belt to come off and take out the timing belt and wreck the whole engine.
I have had this removed, after the balance shaft belt broke and the engine sounded like it had rod knock. The engine was already built. Balance shaft was removed and oil galleys blocked off. Engine made 500kw atw on a standard gt3582 at 5000rpm. 50kw at 3000rpm.
I bought a Eclipse one time and let it set all winter. When springtime came I threw some bolt on parts on it, started it up and the balance shaft belt had apparently dry rotted over the winter, it broke and took the timing belt with it instantly destroying the entire engine. The block and head were no good. The biggest problem was trying to find a new block that hadn't been crankwalked. It was unfortunate that I wasn't able to catch it before I had a chance to rebuild the entire engine which was planned soon. I sure rebuilt the whole engine but it was a different one completely lol. The car still runs strong and fires right up. I blame it on poor prior maintenance from the previous owner(s)
Aww that's a shame mate. Sometimes we just get a bit unlucky with these things but at least after building a new one you know exactly where it is all at now build quality and maintenance wise - Taz.
Talking about oil pump shaft support, there's a factory MMC engine 4g61 that shares oil pump housing with 4g63 of that era. This engine doesn't have balace shafts and uses a short OEM oil pump shaft from the factory (and the plug instead of the 2nd balancer's seal as well). Guess those engines had a failure rate better then 1/20. IMHO the failures are caused not by the lack of the shaft support, those are caused by initial state of the oil pump.
You could buy a genuine part mitsubishi sell to eliminate the shafts was such a long time ago since ive done one i remember rotating the bearings in block so u dont loose oil pressure
What would stop you from just removing the secondary drive belt and just leaving the shaft in there and just modifying the oil pump side shaft as suggested?
Mine has been running just fine with balance shafts for the past 21 years, not sure these "performance" people would be able to say the same things about theirs... 20hp more? Well, decat or get 3" exhaust system..
@@predragbalordawhole point of balance shaft deletes is to remove a failure point. For example, on the Honda K24, the balance shaft is part of the oil pump assembly, and the oil pump can cavitate past an RPM limit, and explode if pushed further. The solution is to install a Type S or K20 oil pump, which has a higher RPM limit, but lacks a balance shaft.
I don't own nor have I worked on a 4g63 engine but my first thoughts were surley the is a after market oil pump that deletes the Ballance shaft.. Jump online yep there is!
@@hpa101 If I were to have the choice and were building one I'd probably pick the Gerotor oil pump assembly, looks like a better option. Especially if you were opting for a billet block without a dry sump setup.
Oh shit! We didn't know. We'll all stop modifying 4G63's then since you've done it all on behalf of everyone on the planet born before and since then haha 😅 On a more serious note, hope you enjoyed the project at the time! This isn't 'new' knowledge (no one claimed it was) but it's still new to some people who are not you doing their own thing with similar engines even today. We think is pretty cool ourselves and hope this helps and encourages such people to get hands on, but you are free to think differently of course 😎 Have a good one dude! - Taz.
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On certain customers engines we remove the balance shafts and block the applicable oil feed galleries with no ill effects. However the complete rotating assembly, pulleys and all needs to be balanced and you can still rev them reliably over 8k.
Certainly not something you want to take any shortcuts on! Good work - Taz.
I will definitely leave mine in, because I use my 4G63T daily. Now I would like to hear about the oil squirters because mine Outlander Turbo didn't came with ones.
i got the gsc race balance shaft delete kit, have loved it so far, no problems. not sure if it actually does a good job supporting the oil pump compared to the stubby, but it gives me a little peace of mind
I removed the balance shafts from my 2.4L Mitsubishi derived engine (from the 90s). It had 2 counter balancing shafts in some kind of housing. I just removed the housing, plug the oil hole and that's it. The vibration is unnoticeable with the right motor mount durometer and you get extra oil capacity in the oil pan.
NVH equipment. Typically comfort is the last concern when building a performance engine. We delete them from the SRT4 engines so the chain can't break and destroy your engine.
Comfort has its place but with certain goals for a car it certainly becomes something that you need to accept you will lose for sure! - Taz.
A Toyota 5S-FE in a '94 Camry with balance shafts is rated at 93kw, the same engine in the '94 Celica without balance shafts is rated at 100kw - that should give you a pretty good idea of the power loss from balance shafts.
You can rev your engine higher without balance shafts, in turn making more hp .
Did they change the rpm between the years?
The balance shafts are also an issue on the 4d56T, from what I remember it’s not uncommon for the belt to come off and take out the timing belt and wreck the whole engine.
I have had this removed, after the balance shaft belt broke and the engine sounded like it had rod knock.
The engine was already built. Balance shaft was removed and oil galleys blocked off.
Engine made 500kw atw on a standard gt3582 at 5000rpm. 50kw at 3000rpm.
I bought a Eclipse one time and let it set all winter. When springtime came I threw some bolt on parts on it, started it up and the balance shaft belt had apparently dry rotted over the winter, it broke and took the timing belt with it instantly destroying the entire engine. The block and head were no good. The biggest problem was trying to find a new block that hadn't been crankwalked. It was unfortunate that I wasn't able to catch it before I had a chance to rebuild the entire engine which was planned soon. I sure rebuilt the whole engine but it was a different one completely lol. The car still runs strong and fires right up. I blame it on poor prior maintenance from the previous owner(s)
Aww that's a shame mate. Sometimes we just get a bit unlucky with these things but at least after building a new one you know exactly where it is all at now build quality and maintenance wise - Taz.
I’ve done a lot of deletes even fully balanced and harmonic balancer only issue I’ve had is the bore squirters break off
I just used the genuine stubby shaft.
Отлично всё объяснил!) I received new information. We do not remove the balance shaft even when 1000 BHP. Especially if it's 2.4
Talking about oil pump shaft support, there's a factory MMC engine 4g61 that shares oil pump housing with 4g63 of that era. This engine doesn't have balace shafts and uses a short OEM oil pump shaft from the factory (and the plug instead of the 2nd balancer's seal as well).
Guess those engines had a failure rate better then 1/20. IMHO the failures are caused not by the lack of the shaft support, those are caused by initial state of the oil pump.
You could buy a genuine part mitsubishi sell to eliminate the shafts was such a long time ago since ive done one i remember rotating the bearings in block so u dont loose oil pressure
Have been always deleting them and replacing with stubby shaft.
What would stop you from just removing the secondary drive belt and just leaving the shaft in there and just modifying the oil pump side shaft as suggested?
@@JJisMe1972 bump, I was also wondering this
Road car? Leave them in.
Mine has been running just fine with balance shafts for the past 21 years, not sure these "performance" people would be able to say the same things about theirs...
20hp more? Well, decat or get 3" exhaust system..
@@predragbalordawhole point of balance shaft deletes is to remove a failure point. For example, on the Honda K24, the balance shaft is part of the oil pump assembly, and the oil pump can cavitate past an RPM limit, and explode if pushed further. The solution is to install a Type S or K20 oil pump, which has a higher RPM limit, but lacks a balance shaft.
I don't own nor have I worked on a 4g63 engine but my first thoughts were surley the is a after market oil pump that deletes the Ballance shaft.. Jump online yep there is!
Yup that's an option. Generally not one we are fans of but others might have had different experiences :) - Taz.
13:08
@@hpa101 If I were to have the choice and were building one I'd probably pick the Gerotor oil pump assembly, looks like a better option. Especially if you were opting for a billet block without a dry sump setup.
You'd be in a very tiny percentile to run a wet sump on a billet block but I'm sure there are a few out there. Happy building! - Taz.
lmao. i did this 20yrs ago yall have some amateurs.
Oh shit! We didn't know. We'll all stop modifying 4G63's then since you've done it all on behalf of everyone on the planet born before and since then haha 😅
On a more serious note, hope you enjoyed the project at the time! This isn't 'new' knowledge (no one claimed it was) but it's still new to some people who are not you doing their own thing with similar engines even today. We think is pretty cool ourselves and hope this helps and encourages such people to get hands on, but you are free to think differently of course 😎
Have a good one dude! - Taz.
everyone in the US did. We all had Dsms. Those were the days weren't they? You bolted on parts and the thing made more power. So easy
We started doing the balance shaft delete option in the mid nineties.
@@deancrawford2577 me too....
@@hpa101 good idea... after a reply like that you probably need to.