I like the trick @ 19:00 where you use a spacer to know when you have reached the correct radius on the end of the yoke. Little tricks like that are great to see. I appreciate all the work that you put into these videos.
you can also use bearings since they are usually hardened they wont wear down but still roll so you don't damage the file and you can get very accurate results with that
I’m just a weekend warrior newbie machinist who loves machining and working with metal and plastics in the garage, but I could watch a true pro like Tom for hours (or until I fell asleep watching him work in which case I’d probably still learn something from this particular MASTER Machinist!) Another cool project Tom. Well done! 👏
Sir your workmanship is an inspiration. Whenever I am tempted to “sod it, that’s close enough” a part I stop and ask myself “What would Tom do?” and the answer is usually “Do it right” so I do! 👍
What makes me really happy about your part/assembly in the Project Egress saga is that only some of you participants seems to pay homage to (or even understood?!) the whole new level of quality that NASA defined with the various space programs whereas others just 3D printed some parts and called it done... People laugh today watching how many steps it required to solder a single piece of wire with the NASA methodology but let's not forget that Voyager 1 & 2 are still operating due to the rigorous perfection that was needed to make it happen, and so were all the engineered parts that went into this original hatch. I'm totally convinced they can take your equalisation valve and replace the original one and there will be a perfect match. Thank you Tom for sharing your awesome work!
Michael Magill That’s a unfair thing to say particularly as you’ve never met him. It’s easy to criticise someone from your armchair, ‘share’ it on the internet, and suddenly it’s a fact. I’ve watched Adam’s videos and, from what I’ve seen, he seems productive. As a person, I have nothing to say, because I’ve not met him. Even if I had, It takes a while to get to know someone well, wouldn’t you agree?
Michael Magill Sorry, forgot to add time constraints meant it would have been impossible to acknowledge everyone’s contribution. They would have been building the door for days! Take care.
Superb as usual. When hand filing those round shapes 18:40 ... I would probably add rollers on both sides of the part being filed, so there is no chance of filing crooked.
Your videos saved me the "many, many, years". I switched to a 4-jaw quite a while ago thanks to the pros sharing their tips. Love the filing trick with the plastic round guide. Considering what happened during assembly, your parts are too good for this build. NASA would probably be quite satisfied with your work. I know I'm impressed.
I was just watching Apollo 13, and I saw this valve on the door after the astronauts were strapped in prior to launch when the guy locked the door! Cool!
Thank you for another great video. It is so nice to see RUclips content that is not just a series of plugs for sponsors. I am so glad you haven’t sold out like so many of the other creators.
Just the hatch door looks like a LOT of hard work to make... Wonderful build project! if you are happy with the results - we are happy too. Not that we would expect anything less than perfect&fantastic from the great master :)
One other reason they rounded off corners and trimmed angles is not just getting something snagged. Every extra pound of cargo weight needed some huge number of pounds of fuel to launch it, so they wanted everything kept as low as possible.
They followed German initiative all the way to that. The Silver Arrows are the grandfathers of the space program in a way. Had the chance to see one up close and personal, every corner, chamfered, every bolt, lightened. It's like a file fest in those. Tho i bet that if we let Tom loose on one, he'd prolly find a few more "lightening" features. :))
My guess is that the 45-degree position is unlocked but gives you more leverage than the 90-degree position which is for fast rotation with less torque.
Yes, that was my supposition in part 1 - makes sense to me. In terms of safety - there's lots of thread to undo before it becomes a problem - you can see redundant features there in terms of the fin in the slots, the torque of the valve nut and the amount of thread on the nut.
Oh, and I see that my sentence was a little confusing - I supposed in part 1 that the 45 degree position was for final torquing whilst the 90 degree position was for quickly unscrewing the valve.
I think the reason it seemed to "settle" was internal stress. Looks like cold-rolled steel, and since you're cutting eccentrically it'll release those stresses unevenly. You see it moves again when you're parting it off for the same reason.
I am such a fan of this. Huge fan of cad cam 5 axis too. I think I would get more joy in this though. My manual is lame compared to CNC but it's invaluable to keep learning. One teaches the other. Bought your books. Thanks for the fetchins
Nice work as always Tom. I love watching you machine, even when Bozo comes to visit. ;) It would be awesome to hear more about this part and maybe some history or detail into it's funcion. Anyway, great job Tom.
I think you'll find this link ( www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=&groupID=1500&artID=34171 ) will take you to your answer. Knipex 86 03 125 mini pliers. I have this size and a larger unit and they are very versatile.
Entirely possible, yes. But in this case i think it might've been a chip. Has happened to me a few times. If you get one right at the end of the work piece, and it "crushes" as you cut, you get the exact situation. Source: i was making crank pins for a small steam engine. Near damn exact failure.
Tom, thanks for your attention to detail in making such an iconic part of this historic hatch! Watching some other makers 3D printing parts and adding glitter made me cringe!!!
That does seem to be a lot more stick out then i would be comfortable without a tailstock center, maybe that is why you were having issues with the runout?
What you mean Abom centering? He would never stop with .001" run out left on the clock. lol Surprised there was no chamfer on the locking tap to ease in its alignment with the slots when it is locked. I wonder if the original had it and it was just left off on these prints?
Doing awesome job. Is it me or do all the screws in the pic of the valve, which appear to be Phillips drive, look not quite like Phillips? They seem to be a bit curved.
Matt Tradie I believe they are Torq-set, a Philips design thou, ment for aerospace. The cross is offset with straight edges, but look curved due to the domed top.
When cutting the 8° angle on the fins, were you bringing the tool in so it was cutting perpendicular to the fin or using applying the cutting force so the fin was in tension?
I wonder if the original parts were made in a similar tool maker fashion. One off, by hand or did they make a pile of fixtures & jigs to make a bunch of them?
What files do you use? I need to get a set and I am unsure of a manufacturer or what cut is most useful. Also other than a flat-file (or possibly a couple of cuts) is it worth getting other shapes?
Notice that the part starts to wobble on parting. While that 4 jaw may hold 3/4 od centered. I bet that with the offset jaws were touching and not giving adequate clamp. A spacer under the jaw that was moved closest to center would have helped.
@@UnreasonableSteve I doubt that. The way the part was cut there might only be a few thou of distortion. If the cut was along the side of a barstock 12 inch long. it might curl but parting?
@oxtoolco, do you know what type of plastic was used originally for the white knob? Also, I'm shocked that NASA seemed to use Phillips head screws for everything.
Hey Tom, Thanks for another great video! Can you tell me what inserts you use to turn that steel? Looks like a very positive geometry. Cheers from Sweden
I'm 99.9% sure there was a chip on the end of the work piece. It got crushed and thus offset the piece. I've done the same thing making a steam engine crank. It's relatively amusing to see the end rod start to "wobble" little by little as you apply force. :))
Forgive me for asking, especially if someone has already asked the question, but how much more challenging would it have been to make these parts 50 years ago? In addition to you having a year or two's experience with making these these kind of things Tom, how much difference does CNC and DRO's make to the process?
Haven't watched to the eng yet but my guess you are cutting 304 and it is famous,ney notorious for warping if you cut more off one side than the other just like your offcentre turning. edit,maybe not 304,not shiny enough and files too easily.
@@James-fs4rn Indeed, but the reason I first thought it might be 304 was my usual supplier sold 303 in the round and sections as 304 and as most of our stainless comes from America I thought it might be the same there.
Spoiler Alert: I was at the museum yesterday and the whole project, including this piece, looks beautiful.
I'll be there in two weeks to do the same.
I like the trick @ 19:00 where you use a spacer to know when you have reached the correct radius on the end of the yoke. Little tricks like that are great to see. I appreciate all the work that you put into these videos.
Gunsmiths use a similar technique to fit a beaver tail grip safety
you can also use bearings since they are usually hardened they wont wear down but still roll so you don't damage the file and you can get very accurate results with that
Thx @@HPD1171, going to borrow your idea.
I’m just a weekend warrior newbie machinist who loves machining and working with metal and plastics in the garage, but I could watch a true pro like Tom for hours (or until I fell asleep watching him work in which case I’d probably still learn something from this particular MASTER Machinist!) Another cool project Tom. Well done! 👏
Sir your workmanship is an inspiration. Whenever I am tempted to “sod it, that’s close enough” a part I stop and ask myself “What would Tom do?” and the answer is usually “Do it right” so I do! 👍
You have some serious proudness in your workmanship, Sir. Definitely one of the higher accuracy parts for this project :)
What makes me really happy about your part/assembly in the Project Egress saga is that only some of you participants seems to pay homage to (or even understood?!) the whole new level of quality that NASA defined with the various space programs whereas others just 3D printed some parts and called it done...
People laugh today watching how many steps it required to solder a single piece of wire with the NASA methodology but let's not forget that Voyager 1 & 2 are still operating due to the rigorous perfection that was needed to make it happen, and so were all the engineered parts that went into this original hatch. I'm totally convinced they can take your equalisation valve and replace the original one and there will be a perfect match.
Thank you Tom for sharing your awesome work!
That moment during assembly when Adam wasn’t sure who made that and you put your hand up. I was proud on your behalf. Well done indeed.
He should have been across who made all the components. More show than go that bloke.
Michael Magill That’s a unfair thing to say particularly as you’ve never met him. It’s easy to criticise someone from your armchair, ‘share’ it on the internet, and suddenly it’s a fact. I’ve watched Adam’s videos and, from what I’ve seen, he seems productive. As a person, I have nothing to say, because I’ve not met him. Even if I had, It takes a while to get to know someone well, wouldn’t you agree?
Michael Magill Sorry, forgot to add time constraints meant it would have been impossible to acknowledge everyone’s contribution. They would have been building the door for days! Take care.
For a split second, I thought you might be makig a klystron. Love these projects.
Nothing better than fine finishing by the hand of the craftsman which built it from scratch .
Thanks to this video, I know what sharp files sound like, and also that all of mine are dull.
Ah, the ubiquitous 5C collet and associated tooling. 5Cs helped me make a lot of things by hand as well as under power. Love the handwork! Thanks Tom.
Thank you for taking on this project and for giving us a glimpse of all the effort and skill it took to put man in space.
Superb as usual. When hand filing those round shapes 18:40 ... I would probably add rollers on both sides of the part being filed, so there is no chance of filing crooked.
Your videos saved me the "many, many, years". I switched to a 4-jaw quite a while ago thanks to the pros sharing their tips. Love the filing trick with the plastic round guide. Considering what happened during assembly, your parts are too good for this build. NASA would probably be quite satisfied with your work. I know I'm impressed.
I was just watching Apollo 13, and I saw this valve on the door after the astronauts were strapped in prior to launch when the guy locked the door! Cool!
Thank you for another great video. It is so nice to see RUclips content that is not just a series of plugs for sponsors.
I am so glad you haven’t sold out like so many of the other creators.
I think it is a Testament to your skill that they asked you to make this part, it shows they are well aware of your ability
It is such a nice feeling that comes from the way you work your craft.
"That's Abom center right there" - just what I was thinking :)
One of the best assemblies of the whole project egress build imo.
Just the hatch door looks like a LOT of hard work to make...
Wonderful build project! if you are happy with the results - we are happy too.
Not that we would expect anything less than perfect&fantastic from the great master :)
Looks great Tom👌. "Ok"😉
Certainly no surprise, great job tom. Its what come to expect.
Yet more extraordinary craftsmanship. Many thanks for the video Tom.
MNML! Oh my! Gotta love that craftsmanship with a file, top dog in that department! Cheers!
I love the little details you put in these little parts Tom. The look beautiful, nice job.
Finest Kind of Project Tom! 1960's Aerospace spoken here!
One other reason they rounded off corners and trimmed angles is not just getting something snagged. Every extra pound of cargo weight needed some huge number of pounds of fuel to launch it, so they wanted everything kept as low as possible.
They followed German initiative all the way to that. The Silver Arrows are the grandfathers of the space program in a way. Had the chance to see one up close and personal, every corner, chamfered, every bolt, lightened. It's like a file fest in those. Tho i bet that if we let Tom loose on one, he'd prolly find a few more "lightening" features. :))
That assembly will be "critical spare" quality! Nice work as always mr Tom!
Tom, at approx 8:00, good old Kinpex Pliers Wrench, hard to beat. Kindest. Joe.
I enjoyed the precision in your work. Compared to the other pieces on the door yours just shouted quality!
I may not be able to go to the museum, thnak you for sharing so much so good ! Great work.
Wow, that 4 jaw really dials it in.
My guess is that the 45-degree position is unlocked but gives you more leverage than the 90-degree position which is for fast rotation with less torque.
DanQuoLives or, it is a safety thing so you don't go straight from locked to unlocked by mistake. just guessing of course.
Yes, that was my supposition in part 1 - makes sense to me. In terms of safety - there's lots of thread to undo before it becomes a problem - you can see redundant features there in terms of the fin in the slots, the torque of the valve nut and the amount of thread on the nut.
@@scott_aero3915 sorry if I pinched your idea, too many comments to read them all.
@@chrisstephens6673 No problem - I didn't think you pinched it! lends credibility to it if more people come up with it independently!
Oh, and I see that my sentence was a little confusing - I supposed in part 1 that the 45 degree position was for final torquing whilst the 90 degree position was for quickly unscrewing the valve.
Such amazing work. I miss seeing more of your projects and definitely could go for a serving or two or three of meatloaf!
Your order of operations is flawless, it's something I always struggle with.
Brilliant. Thanks for taking the time to do this and to film and edit it.
I think the reason it seemed to "settle" was internal stress. Looks like cold-rolled steel, and since you're cutting eccentrically it'll release those stresses unevenly. You see it moves again when you're parting it off for the same reason.
The part just probably moved in the chuck because of the interruptive cut
Wonderful attention to detail! Well done.
Thanks for the video.
I am such a fan of this. Huge fan of cad cam 5 axis too. I think I would get more joy in this though. My manual is lame compared to CNC but it's invaluable to keep learning. One teaches the other. Bought your books. Thanks for the fetchins
Nice work as always Tom. I love watching you machine, even when Bozo comes to visit. ;) It would be awesome to hear more about this part and maybe some history or detail into it's funcion. Anyway, great job Tom.
If it is not a government secret, where did you get the drawings from? At 7:50 you brought out a neat pair of pliers, who makes those?
I think you'll find this link ( www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=&groupID=1500&artID=34171 ) will take you to your answer. Knipex 86 03 125 mini pliers. I have this size and a larger unit and they are very versatile.
Can't wait to see the next part!
Looks good Tom, nice work.
Great video and thanks for sharing! Stay Safe!
This is awesome Tom! Great work! I gotta say though, I'm missing my Monday Night Meatloaf.
I'll bet that part warped as you were taking off the corners and made the pin start to wobble. Stainless in bar form has some incredible stress in it.
Entirely possible, yes. But in this case i think it might've been a chip. Has happened to me a few times. If you get one right at the end of the work piece, and it "crushes" as you cut, you get the exact situation. Source: i was making crank pins for a small steam engine. Near damn exact failure.
@@aserta If it was a chip I wouldn't have expected to continue warping during parting
Tom, thanks for your attention to detail in making such an iconic part of this historic hatch! Watching some other makers 3D printing parts and adding glitter made me cringe!!!
That does seem to be a lot more stick out then i would be comfortable without a tailstock center, maybe that is why you were having issues with the runout?
Nice craftsmanship Tom👍👌💯
Just beautiful work!
What were the awesome flat jawed pliers you used to take out the datum pin from the cylinder? thank you
A joy to watch. Thanks
Above and beyond, Tom.
That'd be a tough choice between which is more satisfying. Making something going into space or making something to go into a museum.
Very nice work Tom. Lots of time in little parts.
Go ahead... build the whole thing... would be great content! Start your own museum.
I always love it when Bob is my uncle.
Yes, that makes us all a happy big family of Bob's nephews and nieces 😉
What you mean Abom centering? He would never stop with .001" run out left on the clock. lol Surprised there was no chamfer on the locking tap to ease in its alignment with the slots when it is locked. I wonder if the original had it and it was just left off on these prints?
Doing awesome job. Is it me or do all the screws in the pic of the valve, which appear to be Phillips drive, look not quite like Phillips? They seem to be a bit curved.
Matt Tradie I believe they are Torq-set, a Philips design thou, ment for aerospace. The cross is offset with straight edges, but look curved due to the domed top.
Oh ok. Never seen them before
When cutting the 8° angle on the fins, were you bringing the tool in so it was cutting perpendicular to the fin or using applying the cutting force so the fin was in tension?
Nice viewing , precise machining job ,lathe works and milling , is this part you fabricate use for hydraulic control valves ?
I wonder if the original parts were made in a similar tool maker fashion. One off, by hand or did they make a pile of fixtures & jigs to make a bunch of them?
I love it! I'm always learning something.
You should probably get some files some time. That's some terrific work.
GREAT VIDEO !!!
Nice work!
What files do you use? I need to get a set and I am unsure of a manufacturer or what cut is most useful. Also other than a flat-file (or possibly a couple of cuts) is it worth getting other shapes?
very nice work there,, very nice,,
6:01 "something settled it looks like" 5 seconds later it flys out of the chuck :)
Hey Tom are you planning on getting back to the printing press?
Notice that the part starts to wobble on parting. While that 4 jaw may hold 3/4 od centered. I bet that with the offset jaws were touching and not giving adequate clamp. A spacer under the jaw that was moved closest to center would have helped.
May also have been the internal stresses of the stainless bar being relieved,
@@UnreasonableSteve I doubt that. The way the part was cut there might only be a few thou of distortion. If the cut was along the side of a barstock 12 inch long. it might curl but parting?
@oxtoolco, do you know what type of plastic was used originally for the white knob?
Also, I'm shocked that NASA seemed to use Phillips head screws for everything.
Hey Tom,
Thanks for another great video! Can you tell me what inserts you use to turn that steel? Looks like a very positive geometry.
Cheers from Sweden
want to know the same
Very cool idea for a project
Following true NASSA style - I hope you tossed a coin to decide whether measurements are in metric or imperial!
At least it wasn't in cubits.....
You are an amazing machinist, wish i could be your apprentice
I have watched and enjoyed your video's about making this valve, however I do have a question; who made the original valve and how did they do it?
Mr. Pete is gonna put you in the naughty corner !
I'm 99.9% sure there was a chip on the end of the work piece. It got crushed and thus offset the piece. I've done the same thing making a steam engine crank. It's relatively amusing to see the end rod start to "wobble" little by little as you apply force. :))
The only thing I can figure the 45° position is there for is to add leverage for opening and closing without having to hold the knob open.
Did you use precisely the same materials as the original also? Whatever the case it looks beautiful.
Does the print say croke handle?
Forgive me for asking, especially if someone has already asked the question, but how much more challenging would it have been to make these parts 50 years ago?
In addition to you having a year or two's experience with making these these kind of things Tom, how much difference does CNC and DRO's make to the process?
Just saw it today! 👍👍
Are you noticing any design style differences vs. modern CNC oriented designs?
18:52 file used in wrong direction :)
I am sure this has been asked about million times but what brand Files are you using? They sound beautiful, like Mozart of filing :-)
were you using the carriage/tailstock drag to drill...it appeared to be so????..Enjoyed your awesome build/craftsmanship
wow. parting on the lathe? Seeing it shake, I wouldn't have dared that... Would have used a cold saw or the mill
yeah, 800 miles away and i still had a high pucker factor watching that interrupted parting.
Is it my imagination, or did you put more than usual into the editing here? Artsy upscale... nice.
The valve looks so much better than the simple 3-D printed parts they put on the door.
Haven't watched to the eng yet but my guess you are cutting 304 and it is famous,ney notorious for warping if you cut more off one side than the other just like your offcentre turning.
edit,maybe not 304,not shiny enough and files too easily.
303 cold drawn does the same thing. Internal stress from rolling.
@@James-fs4rn Indeed, but the reason I first thought it might be 304 was my usual supplier sold 303 in the round and sections as 304 and as most of our stainless comes from America I thought it might be the same there.
I want a handle like that to adjust the volume on my stereo.
Ya know... this could be confused for actual flight hardware... 😁
Exactly what I was thinking. Tom was basically making it to actual aerospace tolerances.
What happened to your into music?
Tom, what brand of files do you use? Thanks for everything your doing!
as far as I know nikelson
Those look like Pferd files, judging by the handle style. Also I recall he mentioned them years ago.
My inner Monk is comparing this to the Jimmy Diresta video of his making. A bit like comparing surgery and backstage at the butcher shop.
I'm guessing but was the original titanium?
I feel so very sorry for your oil brush. It looks quite "switched on."