All this care and effort, and many of the other project egress people just said, "I'ma print it on ma 3d printer - oh, I think the design looks wrong, I'ma change it too"
I did a piece a while ago with tabs, this is how I did it: I cut a trench with a bigger endmill before cutting the contour that contains the tabs ("ramp" or "wedge" style tabs work best for this approach) with a smaller endmill (2mm in my case, the smaller the better). On the 2nd side I machined away the contour till I had about 1mm thick tabs left. After that I slowly removed the tabs with a shallow DOC till I had about .3mm left. This allowed me to break the part loose with just my thump (not even using a hammer) and the tabs that were still on the part were removed with an abrasive stone.
Another excellent video John. Really like how you dig down into CAM settings to show everyone how a small change can make a big difference. An alternate method to retain parts that I've found works really well is low melt temp (e.g. bismuth) alloys. I've used them for wire edm work, turning and milling. Considerably more expensive (and less convenient) than hot glue, but it's a very *solid* holding method, and relatively easy to extract the part later with a good heat gun or in the oven at fairly low temp. (fwiw).
Loved the video! I think I went through the mandatory "oh thats an easy part!" to "oh wait a minute" to "this is going to take some thinking" and finally "meh better do this on the 5 axis" train of thought :P
Use flow, use flow, use FLOW! For large fillets and similar features always at least try flow toolpath in Fusion 360 if you can (and I know you can John!). You get much more even distribution of points than scallop or even contour etc.
@@sarmik13 Flow pracuje primo s modelovanym povrchem a jeho u, v souradnicemi (jako bys ten povrch potahoval texturou). Vysledkem je daleko rovnomernejsi a tvar objektu lepe vystihujici toolpath a body na ni. Taky nemusis resit jak strmy dany povrch v danem miste je. Jen zadas kolik pruchodu chces a fusion dopocita optimalni rozestupy atd. Vysledny finish je potom viditelne lepsi... I kdyz je flow ve Fusion 360 v 5-osych CAM operacich, ma i 3-osou variantu, ktera se hodi kdyz nemas 5-osou masinu...
Using a ball endmill to do that outer edge radius was a BS showboat move that wouldn't be acceptable in any shop I ever worked in. Run around it twice with a radius cutter and be done with it.
Shop Tech Customer calls... we want a part by tomorrow morning and will pay if you make it right away! So, maybe you don’t have the specific radius mill... what then? Buy and expensive cutter on which you’ll have to wait and don’t make the deadline.. or just ballnose it because it’s just one piece and still make the deadline.
Did you try printing some expanding spherical bushings and just bolting it down for the second op (similar to mitee bite expanding id clamps, just spherical)?
The whole point is to avoid soft jaws. Imagine a bunch of small parts for a small batch application. Throwing one bigger piece in and cutting a dozen parts with tabs out cleanly. No need for designing soft jaws, cutting soft jaws, or switching and flipping a bunch of different parts. How about just one off parts in general. Knowing some key things for tabbing and quickly throwing square stock in and cutting the part saving the time of modeling and cutting soft jaws or the need to flip the part, establish the new origin, etc. Some of his analyzing, or in your mind 'over complicating', is experimenting to dial things in for future reference.
There are a few techniques here I would really like to try, would you be able to post this CAD file for us to emulate this part? Dialing in G64 on my Siemens 810D control would be nice.
Do filliting endmills exist for CNC machines similar to the round-over bits for woodworking routers? Edit: just seams like a round-over bit would be less of a headache.
ADRIAAN1007 they do exist but they are a pain to get the heights correct and not leave a lip or gouge on the part. Most of the time it’s way easier just to program a 3d tool path.
@@northernsmith its actually pretty easy i always tell the Maschine a slightly bigger diameter and length off the tool after dialing it in. Works everytime
Hi! Really nice :D do u guys know if abom79 was also included in this project? All my favorite machinist channels, at least the American ones, were included, but I haven't seen a video from him. Thanks!
I'd think because of workholding issues and you'd need to step down to a tiny endmill to cut between them if you were inferring a side by side setup. But, I'm sure you could make it work if you really needed two.
All this care and effort, and many of the other project egress people just said, "I'ma print it on ma 3d printer - oh, I think the design looks wrong, I'ma change it too"
machinist wax works for stuff like that too, but it will cut better without as much loading of the tool compared to hot glue.
the tolerance - offset tip is great, thank you
I did a piece a while ago with tabs, this is how I did it:
I cut a trench with a bigger endmill before cutting the contour that contains the tabs ("ramp" or "wedge" style tabs work best for this approach) with a smaller endmill (2mm in my case, the smaller the better).
On the 2nd side I machined away the contour till I had about 1mm thick tabs left. After that I slowly removed the tabs with a shallow DOC till I had about .3mm left.
This allowed me to break the part loose with just my thump (not even using a hammer) and the tabs that were still on the part were removed with an abrasive stone.
Another excellent video John. Really like how you dig down into CAM settings to show everyone how a small change can make a big difference. An alternate method to retain parts that I've found works really well is low melt temp (e.g. bismuth) alloys. I've used them for wire edm work, turning and milling. Considerably more expensive (and less convenient) than hot glue, but it's a very *solid* holding method, and relatively easy to extract the part later with a good heat gun or in the oven at fairly low temp. (fwiw).
Tom Lipton would have just cut it out square then filed all the edges round and smooth by hand. :-)
Right after you reverse cowgirl him.
I always wondered why my mom always told me to mind my “Ps” and “Qs” now I understand why
Gary Wilson lol there's gotta be a cncgeek tshirt in that - "G64: mind your P's and Q's" 😂
Loved the video! I think I went through the mandatory "oh thats an easy part!" to "oh wait a minute" to "this is going to take some thinking" and finally "meh better do this on the 5 axis" train of thought :P
I like the hot glue trick! Thanks John!
Use flow, use flow, use FLOW! For large fillets and similar features always at least try flow toolpath in Fusion 360 if you can (and I know you can John!). You get much more even distribution of points than scallop or even contour etc.
Jaká je výhoda oproti 3d countour? Nikdy jsem flow nepoužil. Díky za odpověď
@@sarmik13 Flow pracuje primo s modelovanym povrchem a jeho u, v souradnicemi (jako bys ten povrch potahoval texturou). Vysledkem je daleko rovnomernejsi a tvar objektu lepe vystihujici toolpath a body na ni. Taky nemusis resit jak strmy dany povrch v danem miste je. Jen zadas kolik pruchodu chces a fusion dopocita optimalni rozestupy atd. Vysledny finish je potom viditelne lepsi... I kdyz je flow ve Fusion 360 v 5-osych CAM operacich, ma i 3-osou variantu, ktera se hodi kdyz nemas 5-osou masinu...
Why didn't you simply use a radius or form tool for the radius? Works beautifully and in fairly cheap.
Using a ball endmill to do that outer edge radius was a BS showboat move that wouldn't be acceptable in any shop I ever worked in. Run around it twice with a radius cutter and be done with it.
He said in the video he was playing around with pathpilot.
Shop Tech Customer calls... we want a part by tomorrow morning and will pay if you make it right away!
So, maybe you don’t have the specific radius mill... what then?
Buy and expensive cutter on which you’ll have to wait and don’t make the deadline.. or just ballnose it because it’s just one piece and still make the deadline.
@@WasNiksIsNiksWordtNiks Grind a form tool...
Axis Right. Or just use a ball nose, and let the machine do it’s thing and you have time for other stuff.
I DEFINITELY LEARNT A LOT!!!!
Did you try printing some expanding spherical bushings and just bolting it down for the second op (similar to mitee bite expanding id clamps, just spherical)?
Dude just run op 1 then cut soft jaws and deck off the back and do the radii why do you over complicate it
My thoughts exactly. If it's time for hot glue you've already failed 😂
The whole point is to avoid soft jaws. Imagine a bunch of small parts for a small batch application. Throwing one bigger piece in and cutting a dozen parts with tabs out cleanly. No need for designing soft jaws, cutting soft jaws, or switching and flipping a bunch of different parts.
How about just one off parts in general. Knowing some key things for tabbing and quickly throwing square stock in and cutting the part saving the time of modeling and cutting soft jaws or the need to flip the part, establish the new origin, etc.
Some of his analyzing, or in your mind 'over complicating', is experimenting to dial things in for future reference.
I would have ground 2 single lip cutters and cut the part in 2d without the fancy contours and expensive cutter.... just one part
Actual pro tip. Don't ever use hot glue. Use contour jaws.
have a great day guys thanks for the video
Soft jaws are so easy though!
How did you draw the radius in the hole?
Great video, thanks for sharing
You should really try ice spray to remove hot glue. The glue is getting so hard that you can easily break it away from your part.
Why didn't you use a inside radius endmill ?
There are a few techniques here I would really like to try, would you be able to post this CAD file for us to emulate this part? Dialing in G64 on my Siemens 810D control would be nice.
So, why did it go so slowly when you did cogwheels with an excessive amount of points a long time ago?
Was G64 not activated perhaps? :)
Do filliting endmills exist for CNC machines similar to the round-over bits for woodworking routers?
Edit: just seams like a round-over bit would be less of a headache.
ADRIAAN1007 they do exist but they are a pain to get the heights correct and not leave a lip or gouge on the part. Most of the time it’s way easier just to program a 3d tool path.
@@northernsmith its actually pretty easy i always tell the Maschine a slightly bigger diameter and length off the tool after dialing it in. Works everytime
@@nf794 Useful, thanks.
You help me loads, i thank you!!!!!!
Hi! Really nice :D do u guys know if abom79 was also included in this project? All my favorite machinist channels, at least the American ones, were included, but I haven't seen a video from him. Thanks!
No he wasn't - There's a list of names here www.tested.com/science/space/880604-announcing-project-egress-project-national-air-and-space-museum/
This video is 13:37
That one thingamabob lol
Noice! But it looks like you could have made 2 from that one piece of aluminum... Any reason for making 1?
I'd think because of workholding issues and you'd need to step down to a tiny endmill to cut between them if you were inferring a side by side setup. But, I'm sure you could make it work if you really needed two.
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