you are a great teacher, clear directions, good speaking voice, explaining details. Thank-you for sharing this, it has inspired us to modernize our bannister spindles "look" as replacing is way too costly!
Thank you for making this video. I wish you had shown how you removed the handrail, trimmed it in length to accommodate the newel box and then the reattachment of the handrail to the newel box.
I replaced the old handrails with new ones. The key is to get the right angle on the miter saw. Take a board and lay it done the staircase, touching the edge of the steps and measure from plumb/vertical. I hope that helps. Scott
Hi Nora - when you say banister, do you mean the railing? Here's a link to the video showing the handrail installation ruclips.net/video/JTQSPX2nBl0/видео.html Does that answer your question?
Thank-you for the very helpful information. I have installed a sacrificial fence made from hard wood on my miter saw. This supports the grain preventing tear on the back side of the part being cut. To attach the wood fence I had to drill two holes for wood screws in each of the aluminium fences found on either side of the blade. I start with more length than needed so that I can unscrew them and move them in for new wood as needed. Especially if I go from cutting a 90 degree cut to a 45 degree cut.
This is a great video. I'm planning on a similar project. One question I have if - do you feel it is easier to pre-build the newell post casing and slide them over the top, or do you feel it is easier to build on the existing post by attaching 4 separate boards (i.e. wrapping the boards separately on the post). Hopefully my question makes sense. Thank you. Again, great video.
Good question. If the newel post doesn't wrap around the stair treads, you can pre-assemble it as a sleeve. In most cases on my staircase, they had to be assembled in place. I hope that makes sense. Scott
Three very important items not shown. 1. How does one construct the bottom of the newel post when carpet is involved? 2. Are the railings removed (how) and reattached? 3. How to install balusters when carpet is on the bottom?
If you have carpet on the stairs, I recommend removing it first. You won't be able to get tight joints as the carpet will constantly be in your way. To detach the railings, I removed the wood plug that covered the screw hole and unscrewed the connection. To learn how to attach railings, see the video on that topic - ruclips.net/video/nD_uyh_ueGY/видео.html The bottom of the newel post is put on at the end, cut around the base of the stair and assembled around the post. I hope that answers you questions. Scott
I have watched nearly every video on RUclips on how to make a box newel post. Every craftsman presenter, including you, says basically the same thing: "To start all you have to do is to make a box out of four pieces of plywood with 45 degree angles on each long edge." Great! It sounds sooo simple. Then they show how they make the angled cuts on each side of the boards. OK! That's easy to do as well. BUT, NO ONE explains how to get an EXACT WIDTH of the board needed for a particular project. I am trying to make the boxes to have an exact 3" square gap (hole) in the inside of the boxes that will allow for a fit over the old newel post. I cannot find how to set up my table saw to accurately make the width of the strips at the desired 3" space, plus the width of the two angles. I find it extremely hard to measure the distance between the correct points of the two angles. Nothing I have tried allows for the precise measurement needed. If you can help me with this, you will be a Godsend!! Thank you.
Hi Joe. If you add the thickness of material x 2 to your inside dimension, you will get the outside dimension. For example, if you are using 3/4 inch material, add 3/4 + 3/4 + 3 inches to get 4 1/2 inches as the outside measurement. I hope that helps. Scott
Hi Will. The oak railing and newel is what I replaced. It was likely finished with an oil-based polyurethane. The new handrail I added after the newel post makeover was finished with an Early American Minwax stain, followed by an oil-modified water-based urethane - see other videos in this series. ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d_SQdP6s6XA22BMKRcKsyi8
Hi Scott. thanks for your great video. Love the idea of wrapping the existing post with a new newel post. I am replacing my old newel which is 3" wide. What size of newel post should I build? Im using 3/4" alder. in other words what size the inside dimension should be to fit comfortable over the old one.
you want at least 1/8" of gap on the inside for wood movement. I had to plane mine down on the inside after I just the miters as my posts weren't aligned properly and had to shift them slightly up the staircase. Scott
I unscrewed the old handrail to take it apart and instead of reusing the old handrail, I added a new one. Here's a playlist with all the videos from this staircase renovation project ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d_SQdP6s6XA22BMKRcKsyi8
Hi Karl. I used 1x5 boards, which are 3/4 inch by 4 1/2 inches. On some of the posts I hand to plane down the thickness of the boards to get them centered for the railing installation as the staircase had some alignment flaws in it. Does that answer your question? Scott
Thanks Scott, yes it did. So you had to plane down the thickness of the three-quarter inch new boards? Didn’t that affect your 45° corners on the new boards?
@@karld3155 I cut the 45 degree corners first on all the boards so they were the same width. Then I planed the inside face where needed to align my newel posts. Cheers. Scott
I always wondered why staining/painting was not done be cutting the pieces. The strap represents a small amount of paint/stain loss vs the ease of painting a piece of material on a flat surface.
I think I understand what you're asking. Why wouldn't I paint the pieces before assembling them? I prefer the joints in the wood to be seamless with the painted finish. When I finish a piece after it's assembled, there are no gaps between components of the millwork and it looks like one piece versus components put together. Does that answer your question? Scott
If you want to box a newel post like you did, but won't be replacing the handrail, how do you/did you install the box around the existing newel post? Did you remove the handrail to slide the new box around the existing newel post? Please help!!
You can't box in a newel post and keep the handrail attached. There are other videos in this series that show attaching the handrail the right way. See the playlist of all the videos in this staircase makeover project - ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d8_MK7VTqDkMu24NQGiIJhZ
Great video Scott. Quick question: where did you pick up the post caps? I've been looking and can't seem to find ones that look like yours and will fit a 4x4 post. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I purchased them at Royal Wood Shop in the Greater Toronto Area. Here's a link to their website. If you explore the newel post caps, you'll see the different sizes they have. Scott www.royalwoodshop.com/stair-parts/product/newel-caps/?
Hi Scott. How did you design the base? Is it just a thinker piece or does it fit around the upper sleeve? And how high is it? Also how high is the post cap total or above the slanted handrail ? Thanks!
The base was metered, and assembled around the base of the newel post. I used 3/4 inch material. The bases are 16" tall. The post cap is 2 inches above the handrail. I hope that helps. Scott
If wrapping the old newel costs the same as a new one why not get a new one? I’m a complete amateur. Below amateur so forgive me if it’s a strange question!
Installing newel posts is complex. Wrapping them is easier and cheaper to do if you have the skill to do it. If you need to hire someone, they would likely recommend replacing the newel posts. I hope that helps. Scott
Nice. What's the secret to getting the length right on the cove detail pieces at the 7:30 point in the video? Mine are either too short or long but only because I'm a complete amateur! Do you get close first then go back and make additional cuts?
Good question. I cut them a little longer. The key getting the right length is to start with one end that has a miter cut already and held in place with the adjoining miter so they're perfectly where you want them. Then I mark the long end with a perpendicular line at the end of the newel post edge. This line is where the miter will end. Then I take this to the saw and cut it so the line is right at the edge of the miter (leave the pencil line). That should get you the right length. Part of learning how to do this well is practice with your saw. If you mark well but don't line up your saw blade well, this will cause you problems. You will get better at this with more experience if you focus on improving your quality. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have further questions, or if words are just not allowing you to visualize this. There is power in video. Cheers.
on 10:04 how do you fix where the carpet that was damaged. Also my current situation, i ripped off the old railings, then have someone professionally installed new carpet without the replacement railings(rookie mistake), i have an open stringer and doesnt plan on closing it because it is tight already. How do i make a hole on the newly installed carpet for the newel post and spindles without damaging it and re securing it back so the carpet wont be lose. should i use chisel to cut through the carpet for the spindles and post? and should i staple or glue the carpet to the thread so its nice and tight? please help thank you
Unfortunately, you've done things in the wrong order. The carpet needs to be carefully removed, then the spindles/posts installed, then have the carpet installer come back to cut and re-secure the carpet.
I made a video for that - see ruclips.net/video/JTQSPX2nBl0/видео.html The quick answer is the lower end of the handrail is screwed to the newel post on the underside of the handrail. There's a fillet strip that sits in a recess under the handrail that conceals the screw. The upper end of the handrail uses something called a Zip-Bolt for a concealed connection. Does that help? Scott
cameriqueTV the shifting of the table saw fence was me releasing the lock and re-locking the fence. It isn't visible on the video. I use a Delta table saw with a Unisaw fence - when it's locked in, it doesn't move.
Good question. In my region, these newel posts are standard entry-level construction material. We wanted newel posts that were larger and had more character. While some people may be happy with the previous newel posts, they were not the quality or style we wanted in our home. I hope that perspective helps.
im so confused ,,,those old post are 3 " if you made it 4 ' how were you able to slide it over ,, that material looks like 1x,,, 3 plus 1 1/2 is 4 1/2",,
Hi Bill. Good question. The existing posts are 2 3/4" wide. The outside dimension of the new posts are 4" - I used 3/4" material and planed down the inside of some parts. I hand to adjust the alignment on some of the posts to this allowed me to tweak who to shift the posts. Does that make sense? Scott
Bro how many ads in as 12 minute video I already seen 4. Money is in subscriptions not just ads. Ads cut your content. That's why you have low subscribers.
There are 3 ad breaks in this video. That is how RUclipsrs earn money for spending the time to provide free content. Subscribers don't pay for content.
Awesome job Scott! It's hard to tell but were you able to keep the handrail attached to the original banister post or did you cut it and attach to the outside of the Newel post? Wondering how you secured the rail to that outer shell. I'm looking to exactly what you did so any info you can share would be awesome.
Hi Derek. The old handrail was removed before I attached the outside of the newel post. I then cut the handrail to fit back in place for safety reasons while I worked on the other parts of the staircase renovation. I secured the handrail through the outer shell, into the original newel post so that the handrail was as solid as possible. For details on how to attach the handrail, see this handrail installation video. ruclips.net/video/nD_uyh_ueGY/видео.html I hope that helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Scott.
you are a great teacher, clear directions, good speaking voice, explaining details. Thank-you for sharing this, it has inspired us to modernize our bannister spindles "look" as replacing is way too costly!
Thank you, that's very kind. I'm happy this is helping you with your project! Scott
The Bob Ross of home renovation 😄
Lol, thanks! Scott
Thank you for making this video. I wish you had shown how you removed the handrail, trimmed it in length to accommodate the newel box and then the reattachment of the handrail to the newel box.
I replaced the old handrails with new ones. The key is to get the right angle on the miter saw. Take a board and lay it done the staircase, touching the edge of the steps and measure from plumb/vertical. I hope that helps. Scott
“Fixed the nool post!” Classic Christmas Vacation.
YOu have the most calming voice I've ever heard
Lol, thanks. Scott
Oh my gosh! This is beyond our skill level; but, had to compliment his outstanding work! Just a gorgeous job!
Thank you so much! Scott
Yes we need to see the cut and attachment of the banister to the newel - this would help alot
Hi Nora - when you say banister, do you mean the railing? Here's a link to the video showing the handrail installation ruclips.net/video/JTQSPX2nBl0/видео.html Does that answer your question?
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking The base of the new newell post being attached around the existing thinner post.
Thank-you for the very helpful information. I have installed a sacrificial fence made from hard wood on my miter saw. This supports the grain preventing tear on the back side of the part being cut. To attach the wood fence I had to drill two holes for wood screws in each of the aluminium fences found on either side of the blade. I start with more length than needed so that I can unscrew them and move them in for new wood as needed. Especially if I go from cutting a 90 degree cut to a 45 degree cut.
Thanks for sharing that tip Bill. That's a great upgrade for your saw! Scott
thanks for the amazing explanation you are the best👌
Very nice workmanship Scott.
Thank you, I appreciate that Scott
These videos have been very helpful as I prepare to tackle a staircase renovation of my own, thanks!
That's very cool. It makes me happy to hear this is helping you out! Thanks for posting your comment. Scott
Nice,,, very nice. As a matter of fact I have those same old posts and would like to replace them the same way he did.
I'm glad you found this helpful. My goal is to teach and inspire so your comment is encouraging for me. Thanks. Scott
Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome. Thank for the encouraging comment. Scott
Wonderful explanation
Note: fasteners on that small trim unnecessary- modern glue chemistry extraordinarily strong
Thanks for sharing that Jon. I appreciate it. Scott
Great work! Voice super calming....
Thanks for your comment Nicole. Scott
If you don’t have a brad nailer, the best thing is to go get one 😂
Do you attach the newel post sleeve to the existing post in any way, or do they just slide on?
I screw it on only on 1 side, to allow for wood movement. I screwed it on the side where the railing attaches.
Another nicely done video Scott
This is a great video. I'm planning on a similar project. One question I have if - do you feel it is easier to pre-build the newell post casing and slide them over the top, or do you feel it is easier to build on the existing post by attaching 4 separate boards (i.e. wrapping the boards separately on the post). Hopefully my question makes sense. Thank you. Again, great video.
Good question. If the newel post doesn't wrap around the stair treads, you can pre-assemble it as a sleeve. In most cases on my staircase, they had to be assembled in place. I hope that makes sense. Scott
Three very important items not shown. 1. How does one construct the bottom of the newel post when carpet is involved?
2. Are the railings removed (how) and reattached? 3. How to install balusters when carpet is on the bottom?
If you have carpet on the stairs, I recommend removing it first. You won't be able to get tight joints as the carpet will constantly be in your way. To detach the railings, I removed the wood plug that covered the screw hole and unscrewed the connection. To learn how to attach railings, see the video on that topic - ruclips.net/video/nD_uyh_ueGY/видео.html
The bottom of the newel post is put on at the end, cut around the base of the stair and assembled around the post. I hope that answers you questions. Scott
Would you recommend using 3/4 oak plywood to make the sleeves ?
I wouldn’t due to durability. Mitering plywood makes for fragile corners. I hope that makes sense. Scott
Your Videos are great. many Thanks. I really Enjoyed them and were great Help.
Thanks for the feedback Adam. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment! Scott
I have watched nearly every video on RUclips on how to make a box newel
post. Every craftsman presenter, including you, says basically the same
thing: "To start all you have to do is to make a box out of four pieces
of plywood with 45 degree angles on each long edge." Great! It sounds
sooo simple. Then they show how they make the angled cuts on each side
of the boards. OK! That's easy to do as well. BUT, NO ONE explains how
to get an EXACT WIDTH of the board needed for a particular project. I am
trying to make the boxes to have an exact 3" square gap (hole) in the
inside of the boxes that will allow for a fit over the old newel post. I
cannot find how to set up my table saw to accurately make the width of
the strips at the desired 3" space, plus the width of the two angles. I
find it extremely hard to measure the distance between the correct
points of the two angles. Nothing I have tried allows for the precise
measurement needed. If you can help me with this, you will be a
Godsend!! Thank you.
Hi Joe. If you add the thickness of material x 2 to your inside dimension, you will get the outside dimension. For example, if you are using 3/4 inch material, add 3/4 + 3/4 + 3 inches to get 4 1/2 inches as the outside measurement. I hope that helps. Scott
Home Improvement Woodworking Thanks, Scott. Very helpful. I wish you well.
Great video Scott,
What type of wood did you use for the posts wrapping?
I used Birch. It’s a hardwood that takes paint well.
hello scott! how did you go about finishing this red oak newel and the railing?
Hi Will. The oak railing and newel is what I replaced. It was likely finished with an oil-based polyurethane. The new handrail I added after the newel post makeover was finished with an Early American Minwax stain, followed by an oil-modified water-based urethane - see other videos in this series. ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d_SQdP6s6XA22BMKRcKsyi8
Hi Scott. thanks for your great video. Love the idea of wrapping the existing post with a new newel post. I am replacing my old newel which is 3" wide. What size of newel post should I build? Im using 3/4" alder. in other words what size the inside dimension should be to fit comfortable over the old one.
you want at least 1/8" of gap on the inside for wood movement. I had to plane mine down on the inside after I just the miters as my posts weren't aligned properly and had to shift them slightly up the staircase. Scott
Great video, thank you. I have one question... did you cut the handrails off the newel post and then reattach? Did you just use existing rails?
I unscrewed the old handrail to take it apart and instead of reusing the old handrail, I added a new one. Here's a playlist with all the videos from this staircase renovation project ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d_SQdP6s6XA22BMKRcKsyi8
What type material was used to wrap the newel?
It’s Birch. It takes paint well and it’s a hardwood.
nice. doing this project right now so this has been v helpful. Subbed.
Thanks for the feedback Toby. I'm happy to hear you're finding it useful!
Nice solid work what's the measurement between the cap and the astragal moulding I.e where to put the astragal moulding?
It's 4 3/4" from the bottom of the cap to the astragal moulding. Cheers. Scott
Awesome video Scott. What size board did you use to get your 4x4 square around the newel post? Glad I dicovered this channel
Hi Karl. I used 1x5 boards, which are 3/4 inch by 4 1/2 inches. On some of the posts I hand to plane down the thickness of the boards to get them centered for the railing installation as the staircase had some alignment flaws in it. Does that answer your question? Scott
Thanks Scott, yes it did. So you had to plane down the thickness of the three-quarter inch new boards? Didn’t that affect your 45° corners on the new boards?
@@karld3155 I cut the 45 degree corners first on all the boards so they were the same width. Then I planed the inside face where needed to align my newel posts. Cheers. Scott
You need a pin nailer
Great video, Scott. What is the width of the astragal molding you used?
Thanks. The astragal moulding is 5/8" Cheers. Scott
I always wondered why staining/painting was not done be cutting the pieces. The strap represents a small amount of paint/stain loss vs the ease of painting a piece of material on a flat surface.
I think I understand what you're asking. Why wouldn't I paint the pieces before assembling them? I prefer the joints in the wood to be seamless with the painted finish. When I finish a piece after it's assembled, there are no gaps between components of the millwork and it looks like one piece versus components put together. Does that answer your question? Scott
If you want to box a newel post like you did, but won't be replacing the handrail, how do you/did you install the box around the existing newel post? Did you remove the handrail to slide the new box around the existing newel post? Please help!!
You can't box in a newel post and keep the handrail attached. There are other videos in this series that show attaching the handrail the right way. See the playlist of all the videos in this staircase makeover project - ruclips.net/p/PLdSuVz1n16d8_MK7VTqDkMu24NQGiIJhZ
Great video Scott. Quick question: where did you pick up the post caps? I've been looking and can't seem to find ones that look like yours and will fit a 4x4 post. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I purchased them at Royal Wood Shop in the Greater Toronto Area. Here's a link to their website. If you explore the newel post caps, you'll see the different sizes they have. Scott
www.royalwoodshop.com/stair-parts/product/newel-caps/?
Hi Scott. How did you design the base? Is it just a thinker piece or does it fit around the upper sleeve? And how high is it? Also how high is the post cap total or above the slanted handrail ? Thanks!
The base was metered, and assembled around the base of the newel post. I used 3/4 inch material. The bases are 16" tall. The post cap is 2 inches above the handrail. I hope that helps. Scott
If wrapping the old newel costs the same as a new one why not get a new one? I’m a complete amateur. Below amateur so forgive me if it’s a strange question!
Less labour costs for installation.
Installing newel posts is complex. Wrapping them is easier and cheaper to do if you have the skill to do it. If you need to hire someone, they would likely recommend replacing the newel posts. I hope that helps. Scott
Great job! Only criticism is that you kept the original balusters, which clash with the look of the newels.
Nice. What's the secret to getting the length right on the cove detail pieces at the 7:30 point in the video? Mine are either too short or long but only because I'm a complete amateur! Do you get close first then go back and make additional cuts?
Good question. I cut them a little longer. The key getting the right length is to start with one end that has a miter cut already and held in place with the adjoining miter so they're perfectly where you want them. Then I mark the long end with a perpendicular line at the end of the newel post edge. This line is where the miter will end. Then I take this to the saw and cut it so the line is right at the edge of the miter (leave the pencil line). That should get you the right length.
Part of learning how to do this well is practice with your saw. If you mark well but don't line up your saw blade well, this will cause you problems. You will get better at this with more experience if you focus on improving your quality.
I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have further questions, or if words are just not allowing you to visualize this. There is power in video. Cheers.
Woodshop Therapy Thanks I’ll try it
on 10:04 how do you fix where the carpet that was damaged. Also my current situation, i ripped off the old railings, then have someone professionally installed new carpet without the replacement railings(rookie mistake), i have an open stringer and doesnt plan on closing it because it is tight already. How do i make a hole on the newly installed carpet for the newel post and spindles without damaging it and re securing it back so the carpet wont be lose. should i use chisel to cut through the carpet for the spindles and post? and should i staple or glue the carpet to the thread so its nice and tight? please help thank you
Unfortunately, you've done things in the wrong order. The carpet needs to be carefully removed, then the spindles/posts installed, then have the carpet installer come back to cut and re-secure the carpet.
how did you attached rail to post ?
I made a video for that - see ruclips.net/video/JTQSPX2nBl0/видео.html
The quick answer is the lower end of the handrail is screwed to the newel post on the underside of the handrail. There's a fillet strip that sits in a recess under the handrail that conceals the screw. The upper end of the handrail uses something called a Zip-Bolt for a concealed connection. Does that help? Scott
I noticed your table saw fence was shifting. Did that effect the precision?
cameriqueTV the shifting of the table saw fence was me releasing the lock and re-locking the fence. It isn't visible on the video. I use a Delta table saw with a Unisaw fence - when it's locked in, it doesn't move.
Scott you a master woodworker but you kill solid beautiful round post for an modern post! Why?
Good question. In my region, these newel posts are standard entry-level construction material. We wanted newel posts that were larger and had more character. While some people may be happy with the previous newel posts, they were not the quality or style we wanted in our home. I hope that perspective helps.
The original was standard builder's grade and the newer one looks 10x better and are way more updated.
What type of wood did you use
I used birch as it's a locally sourced hardwood. Scott
im so confused ,,,those old post are 3 " if you made it 4 ' how were you able to slide it over ,, that material looks like 1x,,, 3 plus 1 1/2 is 4 1/2",,
Hi Bill. Good question. The existing posts are 2 3/4" wide. The outside dimension of the new posts are 4" - I used 3/4" material and planed down the inside of some parts. I hand to adjust the alignment on some of the posts to this allowed me to tweak who to shift the posts. Does that make sense? Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking you must have the made in China ones ,,hahaha,
So is this not possible if the post is 3.25”?
Can you just make this for me please!!!????
Bro how many ads in as 12 minute video I already seen 4. Money is in subscriptions not just ads. Ads cut your content. That's why you have low subscribers.
There are 3 ad breaks in this video. That is how RUclipsrs earn money for spending the time to provide free content. Subscribers don't pay for content.
slow slow slow
I don't advocate drug use, but you could use a line or two of coke
Awesome job Scott! It's hard to tell but were you able to keep the handrail attached to the original banister post or did you cut it and attach to the outside of the Newel post? Wondering how you secured the rail to that outer shell. I'm looking to exactly what you did so any info you can share would be awesome.
Hi Derek. The old handrail was removed before I attached the outside of the newel post. I then cut the handrail to fit back in place for safety reasons while I worked on the other parts of the staircase renovation. I secured the handrail through the outer shell, into the original newel post so that the handrail was as solid as possible.
For details on how to attach the handrail, see this handrail installation video. ruclips.net/video/nD_uyh_ueGY/видео.html
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Scott.
Woodshop Therapy Thanks Scott.
Great video but please keep your fingers away from that nailer when it's firing! I've seen many a nail bounce back up.
Thanks Alex, I appreciate that!