I hear you on that. Just fixed a problem with a mantle install. Took some ingenuity. And I've got a mind-boggling stair build coming up as well. Keeps me humble. It's all about overcoming adversity! Prayer is always a good thing to have in your back pocket too.
@@scottearlsmithFTC Scott, I remember what King David said ; “Once I was young , Now I am old but I hv never seen God’s ppl begging for bread”! (Psalm 37:25) I count on that among many other scriptures and often ask Christ to remember me, remember his promise, when on my knees crying out to him! Oh how I love the Lord Scott ? He saved my rotten self ! God bless you brother!
Hello Scott. Per your request for feedback: your videos are so so good. It’s a real pleasure to watch a kind, gentle meticulous Christian craftsman share his knowledge to help folks like me. A few questions as I gather estimates from local tradesman for my carpet-to stair. **On some points, they contradict each other in their approaches**. Perhaps you can weigh in? We’re putting 3/4 inch primed pine risers and 1” with oar treads on pre-existing stringers. 3 stringers, 36” treads, skirts on both sides. 1. To ensure no squeak is it imperative to put adhesive at the tread end grain where it meets the skirt? One guy says his stairs don’t squeak and he doesn’t put glue there. Another guy say he leaves a fingernail thick gap at tread/skirt to avoid squeaks. It looks like you don’t use glue there. No youtube video (yours or others leave gaps) 2. Screws thru the riser into the back of the tread or just glue where tread and riser meet? Again, some say screws are necessary while others don’t. What degree of tread back-bevel do you use to accommodate the adhesive? 3. One vendor advised there is a fast drying glue by Bona called Quantum that is made to use without face nails on the tread. I love that idea. Have you used it or heard of it from suppliers or fellow tradesman? 4. If we do face-nail the treads, I love that you use 18g instead of 16 or 15. My woodworking experience tells me 18 2” brads have enough holding power for the glue to set up, but I’ve never done treads and all vendors I’ve talked to like 16 or 15. Thank you.
Hi Richard. Thank you for the compliments on my videos. I can answer these questions better if I know exactly what you are doing. Perhaps you'd like to drop me an email with some pictures so I know exactly what you are doing. This sounds like you are basically re-building your stairs rather than covering existing treads and risers? Cheers, Scott scott@scottearlsmith.com
@@scottearlsmithFTC I will absolutely take you up on the offer and hope to do so later today. Thank you so much. It’s a conversion from carpeted stairs to painted risers and oak treads and landing. If I don’t get comfortable with any of the vendors I’m speaking with, I am strongly considering doing this myself. I already am redoing the hampton myself. BTW, after the steps are done, I plan to do my own rail, newel posts and balusters Your video of the “H” shaped metal balusters install gave me the confidence. Rail shoe was a knowledge bomb to me.
Another great video, super informative. I am in stairs business for over 5 years but it is always good to watch different techniques and application from people like you who has way more years of experience under your belt. Marry Christmas from southern Ontario
Man that magnet bolt tightening tool is wild..does it get tight enough?? I’m guessing yes with the glue squeeze out..never seen that.. I’ve been binge watching your videos..thanks for sharing your knowledge
Binge away my friend, binge away! Yes they do get quite tight. In fact you should only tighten them to the max on the final glue up. The magnet is better at tightening than loosening. Glad you're enjoying the channel. Another Lamello Invis video coming shortly. Cheers, Scott
Great video, nice details for lesser experienced carpenters looking to avoid time stealing setbacks. Some helpful tips here too. 😂Canadian miter station
Thank you for the video ! 1 st my brother in Christ ( yes I recognize one) , 2nd I served 30 years as a Full Time Officer in California retired as a senior Sergeant. Worked it all brother including the big “H”! However I found peace in carpentry and now I am finish carpenter contractor in Northern Calif just North of Sacramento! Man I get cold at 40 at you hv your set up outside in the Snow! You guys are tough! I pretty much focus on doors & cabinets but I started doing homes for a contractor (General builder) and my next one this summer (Lord Willing ) is big and has two sets of stairs? And trust me I am watching your videos along with Spencer’s (inside Carpentry YT) two of the best finish men in the business! Ok Truly a “Merry Christmas” ; God Bless ! Jim Duncan Kings Table Custom Finish Carpentry
So glad you shared this Jim. Yes we both serve "the Carpenter who never made a mistake!" Nice that you're a brother in blue as well. I did 30. Almost half on SWAT. Once my body started to wear out I worked as a detective; and retired as an Inspector, which is like a Captain in your system. Big pay but totally no fun working on budgets and admin issues. Yes it's cold here and we do get used to it. I know it must look strange when we are cutting outside in t-shirts with 4-foot snow banks. Would love to see your part of the world. I've been to Oregon and did some hunting and fishing there. Good luck with the stairs and thanks again for reaching out. God bless you this Christmas.
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thk you! Yep back surgery (stopped at one they wanted to do 2 then a fusion? I declined after 1). Also did a wrist area /hand surgery all on duty stuff (I really enjoyed the streets especially just as it’s getting Dark all the lights in the city , Radio in full tone alerts, yep I remember!). I hv a father that was a home builder 87 yrs old in great health and mom 84 (just moved them in with me I hv the room and I am single). Anyway dad is like a constant resource but he never used some of the tools we do!! I had a little rough road lost a couple friends who were gunned down but I say that to say how good God is to me! He gave me a job I enjoy & is extremely challenging; Cathartic ! U can say! Years ago I helped a RCMP Officer who was at a KOA Campground going somewhere in the states? While using the bathroom to shower up a Nit-Wit stole his wrist watch! He pretty much knew who did it? I asked him is it worth a lot? No he said but it was my Dad’s watch? Say no more! I told him where is the guy? He pointed out his camp! I walked right over and said I need your name as a witness! He balked and I pursued him to hand over his iD ! Sure enough he had a warrant ! However ; I never told him I knew about the warrant but told him give me the watch and no charges will be filed for taking it ! Or I can leave and let him talk to you pointing to this rather large RCMP officer! He handed over the watch! I gave it back and you should hv seen the smile! Then after that he gave me a hat from his unit! I loved that hat! Dark blue with RCMP on the front in his patch! The suspect was made to stand there the entire time ! This suspect stated wow do all you guys act like this ? (Being a creep) and said can I go now? I said this officer does not want to file charges because he would be required to come back if you went to jury trial? However you hv a warrant so off to jail you go! Grabbed him (already cuffed up) tossed him into the cage and shook hands with the RCMP officer who said “that was great!” Anyway Scott my little Canadian RCMP story I really enjoyed helping a brother! I wish I knew his name! Take care!
@@zephyr1408 Boys in blue stick together. Not so strangely enough, I injured my back in 91 on the job. Still bothers me to this day but I avoided surgery. Take care brother.
Hi Scott, love the template idea to cut around the Newell post. Thanks for sharing. Have a merry Christmas and happy new year. Hopefully this weekends storm dosen't hit your area too badly. Here in New Brunswick we are expecting a rain/wind event.
Thank you Yvon! It's a nice trick for using up all your left over scrap from the stair treads. I did a template a while ago on a tread that had a newel post on both sides. I think in that case it was a game-saver. We had snow here yesterday and possibly more this afternoon. Cuts into my shop time! Talked to a carpenter yesterday from Calgary. He said it was -37 WITHOUT any wind chill. Yikes. Merry Christmas and all the best!
great job! It’s a pity we use different measuring system and that here in Europe people prefer concrete buildings covered with wood instead of complete wooden structure. Anyway I find your videos always beneficial. Thank you for sharing
That is the Lamello Invis. Check out the videos on my channel on this magnetic joinery system. Thank you, Scott ruclips.net/p/PLUBalg95MClB4VeNIXirM7dnr108b-S61
Thank you for this great video! We are planning a staircase remodel and this was super helpful! At 10:56 when you're attaching the half newel to the wall are you fastening into a stud in the wall? We've got a weird situation where there is a pocket door behind the area where we need to attach to the wall, so don't have a stud to fasten to. Just wondering what you would suggest for that situation?
Thank you for the compliment Rachel. Next time I encounter your problem I will do a video on it so it's easier to explain. I'm not sure how much clearance you have to the pocket door so you'll have to determine that first before you pick one of my solutions. One is to use a threaded metal plug into the drywall. Mark the drywall with the screw(s) you are going to use and then insert a metal plug (they make them threaded for drywall). The other option is to make a hole (square, rectangular or round) behind the half-newel and make sure it will be covered with the half newel afterwards. Then insert a piece of plywood (3/4") that is bigger than the hole but you can fish it into the hole (kind of like moving a large table through a small door, if you get my drift). Then secure the plywood to the drywall with a couple drywall screws - now have a piece of plywood to secure your half newel. In both scenarios use construction adhesive between the half newel and the drywall. Good luck, Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thank you for the reply! I'll check out the drywall and see if that first option would work. I can picture what you're describing with option #2 as well.
Thanks so much for sharing! What is this thing that you use after connecting the pieces of railings, looking a bit like a fan connected to a drill? What's it's purpose?
Thank you Robert. That is called a Lamello Invis. It is a strong magnet that turns a hidden fastener inside the railing joint to make a solid connection. Really a remarkable tool. I have several videos on the Lamello Invis. I will put a link here to the introduction video. Cheers, Scott ruclips.net/video/Xaw5x4I06D8/видео.htmlsi=ahEhNg-isLXDP5-9
Love the video great information. Quick question, I'm redoing my stairs in maple to match our wood floors, you suggest Saman's or the Finitec, how durable are they...
I've had good luck with both. Saman has one with a hardener that you use on the last coat. In that video I used Saman with the hardener. I apply about three coats before I lightly sand with 320. The fourth coat will have the hardener. Most recently I've used Finitec hybrid, which is a commercial grade product. It's good too. I've been applying with a Finitec 6-inch pad. You get nice smooth coverage that way. Thanks for your comment.
I'm glad to have discovered your site and intend to check out the videos! Question: Do you have a "magic formula" for tightening a loose 3 inch doameter round newal post at the bottom of the stair case?
I have a magic formula but it will cost you! (Just kidding.) Without seeing the post, I would see if there's an opportunity to glue and screw the post securely (long lag screws like GRK or U2). Usually posts loosen over time from constant use, and especially if they have been installed without solid craftsmanship. I have a short on unsafe stair railings. At the beginning you'll see my son pushing over a balcony rail. That is legit. It was that loose. Cheers, Scott ruclips.net/user/shortsHFGPCyxX_ek?feature=share
So, I have to ask as I'm in the market for a new miter saw. I've been running a Milwaukee 12" for the last fifteen years and it's time for a new saw. I see that you have Festool everything, and a DeWalt miter saw. Is there a reason you didn't go with a Kapex ? Never mind, I just finished watching another of your videos and see the shop saw is a Kapex. Best regards. Keep up the content. Always enjoy watching another carpenter work. Cheers
As you saw, the Kapex stays in my shop as our roads are so brutal here that I just don't want it being pounded around in my trailer. (Cold winter temps and deep frost make city streets look like logging roads.) The Dewalt is a power house and seems bullet proof. I had to cut 4x10 douglas fir roof beams on a compound angle and the Dewalt powered through it no problem. Initially it was in my shop but I am tight for room and the long rods on the Dewalt make it impossible to put tight against the wall. So I bought the Kapex for the shop. It was between that and the Bosch with the articulating arm. My son has the Bosch and likes it very much. I do see some finishers with Kapex saws on the job site. The portable mitre stands from Festool cost a lot. So it just boils down to $$. Cheers, Glad you're enjoying the channel!
No. Not in this case as they are technically "faux" risers. They are not structural. Basically covering the original riser. Thank you for commenting, Scott
You're probably referring to the Lamello Invis. I have two videos on my channel explaining how they work. Here is one of them. ruclips.net/video/Xaw5x4I06D8/видео.html Cheers, Scott
You should not put the new threads over the existing threads. It will make a serious building code violation that the most top riser height is 1” shorter and the most bottom thread is 1” taller, which become a serious safety hazard. You should remove the old threads before installing new ones.
I appreciate the feedback Andy. Technically you're correct, but every time I have added treads onto the stairs, the home has already had new hardwood flooring added to both floors so the top and bottom risers work out to be very close to all the rest. Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTCAgreed. I find that, in the majority of cases in my area (GTA East- ie: Toronto), the existing bottom step is short and the existing top step is tall. These all passed new-build inspection. This is true whether the floors are carpeted or hardwood. I have always assumed the staircase builder allows for 1" thick of carpet and underpad on the stairs, which would be a common thickness (1/2" underpaid and 1/2" carpet). Most times the new tread thickness brings the top and bottom steps into alignment, or at least closer, to the same height as the other steps. Practically speaking, slight variations in step heights don't cause issues on the bottom and top steps, anyway, because the brain doesn't kick into automatic cadence mode until after the first step on the staircase, and switches off on the last step away from the staircase where visual cues and cortical judgment take precedence over cadence programs. Step height variation only becomes a tripping hazzard on the steps in between.
@@paulmawdsley2027 Totally agree. Whenever I build stairs for a new home/or reno I find out what flooring they are going to install. Sometimes they haven't decided on flooring yet so I have to make a judgment. Most older homes where the stairs are being re-done are generally 30-40 years old - or older - and they've changed the flooring. Sometimes even right on top of the old flooring. Thanks for weighing in. Cheers, Scott
ruclips.net/video/eBvsFsn67NU/видео.html on this time.. a question, why you do not go with the brown tap all to top? its is not more good look appealing?
@@scottearlsmithFTC Sorry for my English, if i do not explain right. Yes, your response is what i'm asking for. The decision is on costumer. Btw Amazing work, BR.
That pry bar trick on the loose riser at 22:52 is GENIUS! Such a simple thing to solve a huge headache I was trying to figure out. Thank you!
Thanks for letting me know. Glad it helps!
I watched it again Scott ! Just so much information to absorb ? However ; you know how determined an old warrior can be!
I hear you on that. Just fixed a problem with a mantle install. Took some ingenuity. And I've got a mind-boggling stair build coming up as well. Keeps me humble. It's all about overcoming adversity! Prayer is always a good thing to have in your back pocket too.
@@scottearlsmithFTC Scott,
I remember what King David said ; “Once I was young , Now I am old but I hv never seen God’s ppl begging for bread”!
(Psalm 37:25)
I count on that among many other scriptures and often ask Christ to remember me, remember his promise, when on my knees crying out to him!
Oh how I love the Lord Scott ? He saved my rotten self !
God bless you brother!
Came for the stair template in the shorts video and watched this one,new subscriber,this is a gem of a channel,thanks for sharing.
I appreciate this comment very much Peter. Lots more to come - stay tuned.
Hello Scott. Per your request for feedback: your videos are so so good. It’s a real pleasure to watch a kind, gentle meticulous Christian craftsman share his knowledge to help folks like me. A few questions as I gather estimates from local tradesman for my carpet-to stair.
**On some points, they contradict each other in their approaches**. Perhaps you can weigh in?
We’re putting 3/4 inch primed pine risers and 1” with oar treads on pre-existing stringers. 3 stringers, 36” treads, skirts on both sides.
1. To ensure no squeak is it imperative to put adhesive at the tread end grain where it meets the skirt? One guy says his stairs don’t squeak and he doesn’t put glue there. Another guy say he leaves a fingernail thick gap at tread/skirt to avoid squeaks. It looks like you don’t use glue there. No youtube video (yours or others leave gaps)
2. Screws thru the riser into the back of the tread or just glue where tread and riser meet? Again, some say screws are necessary while others don’t. What degree of tread back-bevel do you use to accommodate the adhesive?
3. One vendor advised there is a fast drying glue by Bona called Quantum that is made to use without face nails on the tread. I love that idea. Have you used it or heard of it from suppliers or fellow tradesman?
4. If we do face-nail the treads, I love that you use 18g instead of 16 or 15. My woodworking experience tells me 18 2” brads have enough holding power for the glue to set up, but I’ve never done treads and all vendors I’ve talked to like 16 or 15.
Thank you.
Hi Richard. Thank you for the compliments on my videos. I can answer these questions better if I know exactly what you are doing. Perhaps you'd like to drop me an email with some pictures so I know exactly what you are doing. This sounds like you are basically re-building your stairs rather than covering existing treads and risers? Cheers, Scott scott@scottearlsmith.com
@@scottearlsmithFTC
I will absolutely take you up on the offer and hope to do so later today. Thank you so much.
It’s a conversion from carpeted stairs to painted risers and oak treads and landing. If I don’t get comfortable with any of the vendors I’m speaking with, I am strongly considering doing this myself. I already am redoing the hampton myself.
BTW, after the steps are done, I plan to do my own rail, newel posts and balusters Your video of the “H” shaped metal balusters install gave me the confidence. Rail shoe was a knowledge bomb to me.
@@richardcloud9265 Look forward to your email brother.
This is a professional at work.
Wow that's quite a compliment. Thank you so much for the encouragement. Cheers, Scott
Another great video, super informative. I am in stairs business for over 5 years but it is always good to watch different techniques and application from people like you who has way more years of experience under your belt. Marry Christmas from southern Ontario
Merry Christmas to you as well! Thank you for the encouraging comment. All the best in the New Year with your stair work!
Man that magnet bolt tightening tool is wild..does it get tight enough?? I’m guessing yes with the glue squeeze out..never seen that.. I’ve been binge watching your videos..thanks for sharing your knowledge
Binge away my friend, binge away! Yes they do get quite tight. In fact you should only tighten them to the max on the final glue up. The magnet is better at tightening than loosening. Glad you're enjoying the channel. Another Lamello Invis video coming shortly. Cheers, Scott
Great work skills plus taking each step one at a time. Thanks, Scott for sharing!
Thank you so much for your encouraging comment!!
Great video, nice details for lesser experienced carpenters looking to avoid time stealing setbacks. Some helpful tips here too. 😂Canadian miter station
Thank you Adrian. Glad you enjoyed the video and I see you have the same sense of humour that I do! 🤣Cheers, Scott
Thank you for the video ! 1 st my brother in Christ ( yes I recognize one) , 2nd I served 30 years as a Full Time Officer in California retired as a senior Sergeant. Worked it all brother including the big “H”! However I found peace in carpentry and now I am finish carpenter contractor in Northern Calif just North of Sacramento! Man I get cold at 40 at you hv your set up outside in the Snow! You guys are tough!
I pretty much focus on doors & cabinets but I started doing homes for a contractor (General builder) and my next one this summer (Lord Willing ) is big and has two sets of stairs?
And trust me I am watching your videos along with Spencer’s (inside Carpentry YT) two of the best finish men in the business!
Ok Truly a “Merry Christmas” ; God Bless !
Jim Duncan
Kings Table Custom Finish Carpentry
So glad you shared this Jim. Yes we both serve "the Carpenter who never made a mistake!" Nice that you're a brother in blue as well. I did 30. Almost half on SWAT. Once my body started to wear out I worked as a detective; and retired as an Inspector, which is like a Captain in your system. Big pay but totally no fun working on budgets and admin issues. Yes it's cold here and we do get used to it. I know it must look strange when we are cutting outside in t-shirts with 4-foot snow banks. Would love to see your part of the world. I've been to Oregon and did some hunting and fishing there. Good luck with the stairs and thanks again for reaching out. God bless you this Christmas.
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thk you! Yep back surgery (stopped at one they wanted to do 2 then a fusion? I declined after 1). Also did a wrist area /hand surgery all on duty stuff (I really enjoyed the streets especially just as it’s getting Dark all the lights in the city , Radio in full tone alerts, yep I remember!). I hv a father that was a home builder 87 yrs old in great health and mom 84 (just moved them in with me I hv the room and I am single). Anyway dad is like a constant resource but he never used some of the tools we do!!
I had a little rough road lost a couple friends who were gunned down but I say that to say how good God is to me! He gave me a job I enjoy & is extremely challenging; Cathartic ! U can say!
Years ago I helped a RCMP Officer who was at a KOA Campground going somewhere in the states? While using the bathroom to shower up a Nit-Wit stole his wrist watch!
He pretty much knew who did it?
I asked him is it worth a lot? No he said but it was my Dad’s watch?
Say no more! I told him where is the guy?
He pointed out his camp!
I walked right over and said I need your name as a witness! He balked and I pursued him to hand over his iD ! Sure enough he had a warrant ! However ; I never told him I knew about the warrant but told him give me the watch and no charges will be filed for taking it !
Or I can leave and let him talk to you pointing to this rather large RCMP officer!
He handed over the watch! I gave it back and you should hv seen the smile!
Then after that he gave me a hat from his unit! I loved that hat! Dark blue with RCMP on the front in his patch!
The suspect was made to stand there the entire time ! This suspect stated wow do all you guys act like this ? (Being a creep) and said can I go now?
I said this officer does not want to file charges because he would be required to come back if you went to jury trial?
However you hv a warrant so off to jail you go! Grabbed him (already cuffed up) tossed him into the cage and shook hands with the RCMP officer who said “that was great!”
Anyway Scott my little Canadian RCMP story I really enjoyed helping a brother! I wish I knew his name!
Take care!
@@zephyr1408 Boys in blue stick together. Not so strangely enough, I injured my back in 91 on the job. Still bothers me to this day but I avoided surgery. Take care brother.
Hi Scott, love the template idea to cut around the Newell post.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a merry Christmas and happy new year.
Hopefully this weekends storm dosen't hit your area too badly.
Here in New Brunswick we are expecting a rain/wind event.
Thank you Yvon! It's a nice trick for using up all your left over scrap from the stair treads. I did a template a while ago on a tread that had a newel post on both sides. I think in that case it was a game-saver.
We had snow here yesterday and possibly more this afternoon. Cuts into my shop time!
Talked to a carpenter yesterday from Calgary. He said it was -37 WITHOUT any wind chill. Yikes.
Merry Christmas and all the best!
I wish you were closer to me. I’m looking for someone with your skills to install a new staircase.
Check with your local finishing supplier - they may know someone. Thank you for your encouraging comment.
great job! It’s a pity we use different measuring system and that here in Europe people prefer concrete buildings covered with wood instead of complete wooden structure. Anyway I find your videos always beneficial. Thank you for sharing
Thank you. So encouraging that carpenters from other countries watch and enjoy the channel!
What is the tool at the 16:11 mark?
That is the Lamello Invis. Check out the videos on my channel on this magnetic joinery system. Thank you, Scott ruclips.net/p/PLUBalg95MClB4VeNIXirM7dnr108b-S61
Thank you for this great video! We are planning a staircase remodel and this was super helpful! At 10:56 when you're attaching the half newel to the wall are you fastening into a stud in the wall? We've got a weird situation where there is a pocket door behind the area where we need to attach to the wall, so don't have a stud to fasten to. Just wondering what you would suggest for that situation?
Thank you for the compliment Rachel. Next time I encounter your problem I will do a video on it so it's easier to explain. I'm not sure how much clearance you have to the pocket door so you'll have to determine that first before you pick one of my solutions. One is to use a threaded metal plug into the drywall. Mark the drywall with the screw(s) you are going to use and then insert a metal plug (they make them threaded for drywall). The other option is to make a hole (square, rectangular or round) behind the half-newel and make sure it will be covered with the half newel afterwards. Then insert a piece of plywood (3/4") that is bigger than the hole but you can fish it into the hole (kind of like moving a large table through a small door, if you get my drift). Then secure the plywood to the drywall with a couple drywall screws - now have a piece of plywood to secure your half newel. In both scenarios use construction adhesive between the half newel and the drywall. Good luck, Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thank you for the reply! I'll check out the drywall and see if that first option would work. I can picture what you're describing with option #2 as well.
@@rachelsoukup8 Good luck!
You make it look so easy.
Thanks Bob. I edit out all the head scratching.
Very great video. I'd love to know the brand and color of the stain used.
Glad you enjoyed the video. It's Saman B5 brown in clear tint base. Cheers, Scott!
Thanks so much for sharing! What is this thing that you use after connecting the pieces of railings, looking a bit like a fan connected to a drill? What's it's purpose?
Thank you Robert. That is called a Lamello Invis. It is a strong magnet that turns a hidden fastener inside the railing joint to make a solid connection. Really a remarkable tool. I have several videos on the Lamello Invis. I will put a link here to the introduction video. Cheers, Scott ruclips.net/video/Xaw5x4I06D8/видео.htmlsi=ahEhNg-isLXDP5-9
@@scottearlsmithFTC Thank you very much!
@@robertkiessling9700 You're welcome.
Love the video great information. Quick question, I'm redoing my stairs in maple to match our wood floors, you suggest Saman's or the Finitec, how durable are they...
I've had good luck with both. Saman has one with a hardener that you use on the last coat. In that video I used Saman with the hardener. I apply about three coats before I lightly sand with 320. The fourth coat will have the hardener. Most recently I've used Finitec hybrid, which is a commercial grade product. It's good too. I've been applying with a Finitec 6-inch pad. You get nice smooth coverage that way. Thanks for your comment.
I'm glad to have discovered your site and intend to check out the videos! Question: Do you have a "magic formula" for tightening a loose 3 inch doameter round newal post at the bottom of the stair case?
I have a magic formula but it will cost you! (Just kidding.) Without seeing the post, I would see if there's an opportunity to glue and screw the post securely (long lag screws like GRK or U2). Usually posts loosen over time from constant use, and especially if they have been installed without solid craftsmanship. I have a short on unsafe stair railings. At the beginning you'll see my son pushing over a balcony rail. That is legit. It was that loose. Cheers, Scott ruclips.net/user/shortsHFGPCyxX_ek?feature=share
Canadian miter setup!! Haha
Haha. Very economical actually! Thanks
U ever try the keyhole bracket from lj smith to fasten newels. Using them for yrs n love it
A supplier gave me one to try and I lost the key portion of it somehow. I will have to check them out. Thanks for that tip.
@@scottearlsmithFTC
I make a lil jig to rout that plate in. Super fast n very solid. Never got a complaint for a loose newel
@@Tom-sd5ru I will check that out. Thanks for info.
So, I have to ask as I'm in the market for a new miter saw. I've been running a Milwaukee 12" for the last fifteen years and it's time for a new saw. I see that you have Festool everything, and a DeWalt miter saw. Is there a reason you didn't go with a Kapex ?
Never mind, I just finished watching another of your videos and see the shop saw is a Kapex.
Best regards. Keep up the content. Always enjoy watching another carpenter work.
Cheers
As you saw, the Kapex stays in my shop as our roads are so brutal here that I just don't want it being pounded around in my trailer. (Cold winter temps and deep frost make city streets look like logging roads.) The Dewalt is a power house and seems bullet proof. I had to cut 4x10 douglas fir roof beams on a compound angle and the Dewalt powered through it no problem. Initially it was in my shop but I am tight for room and the long rods on the Dewalt make it impossible to put tight against the wall. So I bought the Kapex for the shop. It was between that and the Bosch with the articulating arm. My son has the Bosch and likes it very much. I do see some finishers with Kapex saws on the job site. The portable mitre stands from Festool cost a lot. So it just boils down to $$. Cheers, Glad you're enjoying the channel!
Don’t you have to router out the riser shape into the newel post so it sits inside the newel post?
No. Not in this case as they are technically "faux" risers. They are not structural. Basically covering the original riser. Thank you for commenting, Scott
whats that shaver tool and drill called?
You're probably referring to the Lamello Invis. I have two videos on my channel explaining how they work. Here is one of them. ruclips.net/video/Xaw5x4I06D8/видео.html Cheers, Scott
You should not put the new threads over the existing threads. It will make a serious building code violation that the most top riser height is 1” shorter and the most bottom thread is 1” taller, which become a serious safety hazard. You should remove the old threads before installing new ones.
I appreciate the feedback Andy. Technically you're correct, but every time I have added treads onto the stairs, the home has already had new hardwood flooring added to both floors so the top and bottom risers work out to be very close to all the rest. Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTCAgreed. I find that, in the majority of cases in my area (GTA East- ie: Toronto), the existing bottom step is short and the existing top step is tall. These all passed new-build inspection. This is true whether the floors are carpeted or hardwood. I have always assumed the staircase builder allows for 1" thick of carpet and underpad on the stairs, which would be a common thickness (1/2" underpaid and 1/2" carpet). Most times the new tread thickness brings the top and bottom steps into alignment, or at least closer, to the same height as the other steps. Practically speaking, slight variations in step heights don't cause issues on the bottom and top steps, anyway, because the brain doesn't kick into automatic cadence mode until after the first step on the staircase, and switches off on the last step away from the staircase where visual cues and cortical judgment take precedence over cadence programs. Step height variation only becomes a tripping hazzard on the steps in between.
@@paulmawdsley2027 Totally agree. Whenever I build stairs for a new home/or reno I find out what flooring they are going to install. Sometimes they haven't decided on flooring yet so I have to make a judgment. Most older homes where the stairs are being re-done are generally 30-40 years old - or older - and they've changed the flooring. Sometimes even right on top of the old flooring. Thanks for weighing in. Cheers, Scott
ruclips.net/video/eBvsFsn67NU/видео.html on this time.. a question, why you do not go with the brown tap all to top? its is not more good look appealing?
I'm not sure what you mean exactly. But the customers wanted white risers and white balusters. That is why the stair case is not all brown. Thx Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC Sorry for my English, if i do not explain right. Yes, your response is what i'm asking for. The decision is on costumer. Btw Amazing work, BR.
@@colmanlopez Thank you so much for the compliment. Your English is very good by the way. Much better than my Spanish!! Scott