I've always struggled to get a straight cut trying to mill with my bandsaw. Now I know why! I'm getting immediately better results following the steps in this video.
Not only the best video on setting a bandsaw but one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen! Almost perfect - except the last 10 seconds. I don't understand why you used a glued up board instead of a more challenging solid one-piece board with some grain challenges. Great Video - thanks
Mr. Snodgrass, I want to thank you for going in-depth and giving reasoning for why you set the saw up the way you do. I've spent 30 years in different disciplines of manufacturing, and I've always been tasked with teaching what I've learned. The way that you take time to explain the minute details (such as how heat damages the teeth of the blade) is invaluable. Excellent tutorial sir!
Thank you for your skill and knowledge. I bought a used 14 in Rigid bandsaw almost 10 years ago for $75. It was badly neglected, lots of surface rust and the top wasn't even tightened down. I took care of all that, replaced the rubber tires with neoprene, put in some new guides (cool guides), and purchased a new blade. With your fantastic set up demo from that old woodworking show video ("Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass" from 12 yrs ago), my bandsaw ran like a champ ... and still does to this day! Glad to see you give a refresher to newer woodworkers. I cringe every time I hear a tool company recommend tracking the blade in the center!
Being fairly new to woodworking, and particularly the bandsaw, I found this information incredibly helpful! I have a Rikon 10” 10-3061 bandsaw and will use this video to fine tune my setup. Wish I had a Woodcraft closer to where I live!!!
Perfect video for us less than perfect band saw users. Thank you for the knowledge it took years to perfect (unless you worked for an older Master Wood Worker). Plus you just made using the saw safer. Excellent, subscribed.
Alex, great stuff! Well done. I found that finding the "true" crown of tire can be a bit of guess to set the gullet just right. I used a good old fashioned ball point pen on bright orange urethane tire set dead center of the tire and spun the wheel. Viola, instant alignment line to get the blade spot on every time!
Hi Alex i love your videos most helpful always. Now do you have a video o the wrack and pinion maintenance as mine has a little bit of side movement as it goes up and down pushing the blade over a bit. I would love your advice please . Thank you.
This video is very helpful! I followed it and still got drift. Then I ordered a new 3/4 Laguna resaw blade and followed the setup directions. It cut like a hot knife through butter with no drift. I think my main problem was that my original blade was shot!
Great video Alex. I just got my new Rikon 10-3061 table top band saw and I plan to build a rolling cart for it. My question is what is the ideal working height for a bandsaw like mine? Thanks again for posting this setup video.
That last cut was amazing. I tried to rip a 2x4 in half and it drifted so badly that it cut it in half diagonally. I couldn't imagine actually doing a straight cut on my bandsaw, so I only ever use it for small things where the cut is so short there's not time to drift. So thank you, this is great, I can't wait to go tune my bandsaw and actually get some good use out of it.
Great advice ... never have seen such a thorough bandsaw setup video. Thanks Alex! Off the subject ... are you a Bulldogs, Packers, or Grambling fan? Couldn't help but notice that belt buckle, and would love to have one like it (I live in Green Bay!).
I have a jet 12" and after replacing the rubber tires with neoprene, I noticed a few things. When I put the top tire back on and tightened the nut onto the bearing, it would not spin freely. So, I backed off the nut a tad to allow it to rotate freely. Once both tires were put back onto the saw and the blade centered, when I turned on my saw, I noticed that the blade was moving in and out about 1/8th" as the wheels turned. Is this due to improper replacement or alignment of the wheels? What can I do to solve this issue? Thanks P.s. I will check to see if the blade's gullet is in the correct position.
Alex, I have two questions. (1) I assume the guide bearing setups are the same for the bearings under the table, correct? and (2) You started by saying the lower wheel was already set, but never spoke about any tuneup actions down there. Are we to generally ignore the need to tune the blade to the lower wheel? Thanks.
I tried putting the deepest part of the tooth in the middle of the wheel and when I turn on the saw the blade moves forward where the back of the blade is on the wheel center.... what am I doing wrong?
What about tire placement? I just replaced the worn-out 20 year-old tires on my Genereal 90-150M and the machine vibrates even more than before. The new urethane tires are just a bit narrower than the wheels. I've tried to pull sections of the tires so they are as consistent as possible, but that's a challenge. Any suggestions?
How do we find the center of the wheel since it's not marked? Looks like my wheel (the yellow band part) is 27mm, so do I just estimate a guess of 13.5mm and hope for the best?
I have used your videos countless time to help me but this is the first time I didn't get my answer. I am installing a 1 1/4" resew king on my laguna 18bx and am unable to get the blade in the correct position with the deepest part of the gullet at the crown of the wheel. the blade is to wide and rubs on the back. I am sure there is a solution for this I just can't find it.
I just bought some trouble a Delta 18” with two knobs for blade tracking. The manual is no help. It just says turn both knobs equal amounts.. Great! That’s real help full. Nothing about both clockwise or counterclockwise, or one clockwise and other counterclockwise. Or hints on turns to track the blade forward or backwards. Can anyone help haven’t found a video with two adjustments knobs?
Yeah, I get the concept yet what I dont get is why bandsaw manufactures (just got me a Laguna) don't recommend such a set up. I set up the blade per the manual, and the blade (3/4" Resaw King) is cutting dead flat boards. Yes, blade tension at teeth = better tracking in theory, but are blades engineered to operate that way? Per manuals, tension is centred on the blade. Your recco puts all the tension on the edge. There's gotta be more to the story.
Just a thought. If the table isn’t square, then you have to use a square to fix it. Your test is great if it is square. Not saying it would be impossible to figure it out, but it would have been great to see how you handle a table that wasnt square.
cobblers if yourun the saw where you say, the set will rip up the rubbers, polymers, whatever the wheels have bonded on them, i run the teeth off the front of the wheel, not touching the rubber
I've always struggled to get a straight cut trying to mill with my bandsaw. Now I know why! I'm getting immediately better results following the steps in this video.
Just got my first bandsaw. This explains how and more importantly why adjustments are made.
Thanks to Mr. Snodgrass, Woodcraft... and whoever invented RUclips!
Not only the best video on setting a bandsaw but one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen! Almost perfect - except the last 10 seconds. I don't understand why you used a glued up board instead of a more challenging solid one-piece board with some grain challenges.
Great Video - thanks
Mr. Snodgrass, I want to thank you for going in-depth and giving reasoning for why you set the saw up the way you do. I've spent 30 years in different disciplines of manufacturing, and I've always been tasked with teaching what I've learned. The way that you take time to explain the minute details (such as how heat damages the teeth of the blade) is invaluable. Excellent tutorial sir!
That was fantastic, thank you for those simple explanations. Blacktail Studio recommended your video and boy was he right.
He has the right belly for a woodworker. You can trust this guy for sure 👍
It’s like a diploma
Thank you for your skill and knowledge. I bought a used 14 in Rigid bandsaw almost 10 years ago for $75. It was badly neglected, lots of surface rust and the top wasn't even tightened down. I took care of all that, replaced the rubber tires with neoprene, put in some new guides (cool guides), and purchased a new blade. With your fantastic set up demo from that old woodworking show video ("Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass" from 12 yrs ago), my bandsaw ran like a champ ... and still does to this day! Glad to see you give a refresher to newer woodworkers. I cringe every time I hear a tool company recommend tracking the blade in the center!
Best video I've ever seen explaining bandsaw tuning, and I've watched a ton lol. Thank you!!!
Being fairly new to woodworking, and particularly the bandsaw, I found this information incredibly helpful! I have a Rikon 10” 10-3061 bandsaw and will use this video to fine tune my setup. Wish I had a Woodcraft closer to where I live!!!
Mind blown on the pivot point, that makes so much sense.
Thank you!!!!!
Just starting my first project with my bandsaw, your advice is very helpful and really helpful to myself and many others, big thank you
Indeed, very important instructions. Operating any machine safely and properly is a “ MUST “ .
Perfect video for us less than perfect band saw users. Thank you for the knowledge it took years to perfect (unless you worked for an older Master Wood Worker). Plus you just made using the saw safer. Excellent, subscribed.
I found your video from Blacktail studio. Thank you for a great information video.
This is great. Thank you so much for sharing. I know I’m be making those adjustments today!
great infomation thanks, just what i needed.
Alex, great stuff! Well done. I found that finding the "true" crown of tire can be a bit of guess to set the gullet just right. I used a good old fashioned ball point pen on bright orange urethane tire set dead center of the tire and spun the wheel. Viola, instant alignment line to get the blade spot on every time!
Hi Alex i love your videos most helpful always. Now do you have a video o the wrack and pinion maintenance as mine has a little bit of side movement as it goes up and down pushing the blade over a bit.
I would love your advice please .
Thank you.
This is superb and perfect timing as my bandsaw has more drift than a Japanese b-movie on fast forward!
Really helpful.. thanks
Excellent info. Thanks
That was really good.
This video is very helpful! I followed it and still got drift. Then I ordered a new 3/4 Laguna resaw blade and followed the setup directions. It cut like a hot knife through butter with no drift. I think my main problem was that my original blade was shot!
Great video Alex. I just got my new Rikon 10-3061 table top band saw and I plan to build a rolling cart for it. My question is what is the ideal working height for a bandsaw like mine? Thanks again for posting this setup video.
That last cut was amazing.
I tried to rip a 2x4 in half and it drifted so badly that it cut it in half diagonally.
I couldn't imagine actually doing a straight cut on my bandsaw, so I only ever use it for small things where the cut is so short there's not time to drift.
So thank you, this is great, I can't wait to go tune my bandsaw and actually get some good use out of it.
A month later...... how is your bandsaw cutting now?
two months later... have you succeeded at tuning your bandsaw?
Exelent Sir!!!❤
Any recommendations If the wheel ist Not crowned?
Perfect. 🤔🙃🤩
Boy, you know your stuff Alex. Thanks for sharing. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Great advice ... never have seen such a thorough bandsaw setup video. Thanks Alex!
Off the subject ... are you a Bulldogs, Packers, or Grambling fan? Couldn't help but notice that belt buckle, and would love to have one like it (I live in Green Bay!).
I have a jet 12" and after replacing the rubber tires with neoprene, I noticed a few things. When I put the top tire back on and tightened the nut onto the bearing, it would not spin freely. So, I backed off the nut a tad to allow it to rotate freely. Once both tires were put back onto the saw and the blade centered, when I turned on my saw, I noticed that the blade was moving in and out about 1/8th" as the wheels turned. Is this due to improper replacement or alignment of the wheels? What can I do to solve this issue? Thanks P.s. I will check to see if the blade's gullet is in the correct position.
Alex, I have two questions. (1) I assume the guide bearing setups are the same for the bearings under the table, correct? and (2) You started by saying the lower wheel was already set, but never spoke about any tuneup actions down there. Are we to generally ignore the need to tune the blade to the lower wheel? Thanks.
Place, can you activate the automatic translation for your vidéos, so I can good understand what you explain. Thanks
It is activated.
@@WoodcraftSupply sorry but not the possibilité to translate in a other language 😢
@@danav4810 I'm very sorry, I can see the auto translate button on my end. I'm not sure how to fix it. I will look into it more.
@@WoodcraftSupply I test it today and I can translate the vidéo in French Thanks
I tried putting the deepest part of the tooth in the middle of the wheel and when I turn on the saw the blade moves forward where the back of the blade is on the wheel center.... what am I doing wrong?
Are you adjusting the tracking knob while manually spinning the wheel?
@@nathansmees1471 no… but I found a guide under my table and adjusted it and now I have it lined up perfectly.
What about tire placement? I just replaced the worn-out 20 year-old tires on my Genereal 90-150M and the machine vibrates even more than before. The new urethane tires are just a bit narrower than the wheels. I've tried to pull sections of the tires so they are as consistent as possible, but that's a challenge. Any suggestions?
How do we find the center of the wheel since it's not marked? Looks like my wheel (the yellow band part) is 27mm, so do I just estimate a guess of 13.5mm and hope for the best?
If your putting in a 1 inch blade it doesn’t seem possible to center the gullet. Can you suggest a depth for a larger blade
Band saw? might as well be called an Alex Snodgrass saw
Not a bad idea.
I have used your videos countless time to help me but this is the first time I didn't get my answer. I am installing a 1 1/4" resew king on my laguna 18bx and am unable to get the blade in the correct position with the deepest part of the gullet at the crown of the wheel. the blade is to wide and rubs on the back. I am sure there is a solution for this I just can't find it.
I just bought some trouble a Delta 18” with two knobs for blade tracking. The manual is no help. It just says turn both knobs equal amounts.. Great! That’s real help full. Nothing about both clockwise or counterclockwise, or one clockwise and other counterclockwise. Or hints on turns to track the blade forward or backwards. Can anyone help haven’t found a video with two adjustments knobs?
Yeah, I get the concept yet what I dont get is why bandsaw manufactures (just got me a Laguna) don't recommend such a set up. I set up the blade per the manual, and the blade (3/4" Resaw King) is cutting dead flat boards. Yes, blade tension at teeth = better tracking in theory, but are blades engineered to operate that way? Per manuals, tension is centred on the blade. Your recco puts all the tension on the edge. There's gotta be more to the story.
How else are bandsaw blade makers gonna make money if everyone sets their blades up right?
At 3:43, you say “anything less than that ….” Don’t you mean more?
Just a thought. If the table isn’t square, then you have to use a square to fix it. Your test is great if it is square. Not saying it would be impossible to figure it out, but it would have been great to see how you handle a table that wasnt square.
cobblers if yourun the saw where you say, the set will rip up the rubbers, polymers, whatever the wheels have bonded on them, i run the teeth off the front of the wheel, not touching the rubber