Thank's a lot Rob for this useful advice! In future I also will shoot BIF with shutter priority - it makes more sense than in manual mode. Manual mode means controlling everthing: Aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation, but in a hurry it ist too much for my brain too. It works well for static motifs like forests, flowers and mushrooms.
Thanks, Rob 👍 I've been a diehard manual shooter for years but just a few months ago decided to try shutter priority, it's been a revelation! Also interesting to find out more about the subject detect settings etc.
Thanks for answering my question regarding the exposure settings Rob. I would be worried that my aperture would increase in bright light conditions. I want the maximum shallow depth of field possible, that's why I set it manually. To each their own. Maybe I'll try your method in my next outing, today in the Algarve to see what happens with the aperture.
Your terminology is confused. In bright light vs lower light your aperture would decrease, not increase -- your f-stop will increase -- they are not the same thing. I agree with Rob's philosophy. I know what shutter speed I want, and for just about any flying bird, that shutter speed will be high enough to require a wide open aperture. I generally use Auto ISO for any BIF shooting. You need to use what works best for you.
HI. IJUST GOT MY OM1 AND FOUND ANOTHER WAY OF USING MANUAL EXPOSURE. I SET THE LOWEST APERTURE AND THE SPEED YOU WANT PLUS AUTO ISO. THEN I CHANGE TO C1, WHERE THE FRONT DIAL CONTROLS SHUTTER AND BACK DIAL EXP. COMP. THEN YOU HAVE A KIND OF FAKE SHUTTER PRIORITY ( ALWAYS KEEP THE LOWEST APERTURE, THAT CANNOT BE CHANGED). THAT WAY YOU CAN LEAVE YOUR FINGER ON THE SHUTTER AND COMPENSATE WITH THE THUMB (WILL CHANGE ISO). VERY FAST
Wow...Rob you really work at all this. Using minus 2 helped but using the lever to move between full and cross AF points was the big help. Now if you can explain how to tie all this in to my mind so I can move the focus point instantly when the bird jumps around it would be great!!! Thank you so much. There are multiple ways to move the focus point though...right? Maybe if you have not yet covered that then you might try another video to explain this action on the OM1. Joe McGrath
If you want your E-M10ii (my E-PL7) to follow-focus quickly when you're doing a talking-head vlog behind a desk, to switch to your hand or "product" and back - turn the recognition off and aim the AF-C focus point(s) at your head. Anything placed in front of you will grab the focus. Otherwise it will try to stay with the "actor", for much the same reason as the OM-1 sensitivity makes it sticky. This applies to most any camera used for this.
Hello Rob and thanks for all the informative videos. I'm the new owner of the OM-1 Mk2 and learning a lot from your videos. I have a question on saving all my settings. I have saved them to my computer can they be also saved to an SD card and loaded back into the camera if/when required?
Hi Rob. I use the focus analyzer of om workspace but I do not really trust it. Often I find the images listed far down in the focus order to be sharper than those listed at the top. Do you have any experience of the focus analyzer and have you tested it carefully? Per
Hi Rob, I love your video's and I've learned a lot. I shoot most in manuel mode and I have set mt front dial to ISO and the rear dial to shutterspeed. But then EC will not work anymore because it needs a dial to work with. Is ther another option to get this work. Greetz from The Netherlands
On the OM-1, in manual mode, EC only works with Auto-ISO. So if you set your ISO to anything else, EC is disabled. If you're in auto-iso, you can push and hold the EC button which is behind the shutter button and rotate the front or read dial. You can also change EC in the Super Control Panel.
Hi Rob. I am trying to figure out how to set up a button to change between C-AF and S-AF. It is impractical to take the camera off my eyes and press the button on the top left and then choose one or the other. When I try to assign a button, changing AF mode doesn't seem am option. This doesn't make sense, am I missing something. The workaround would be to assign a button to custom setting. Is that the only way in your extensive exploration? Found it. What I wanted was using the lever control, but i didn't dig deep enough. Mode 2 and then dig deeper by pushing the Info button, but I am sure you knew that already.
Looks like you found the two options to achieve this. Yes, put function lever into mode 2. I actually recorded a clip showing that but forgot to put it into this video!
I like to use shutter priority with manual lenses also. Rear dial controls shutter speed, front dial controls compensation, lens controls aperture and ISO is set to auto. I would like to see a comparison of an adapted OM original 4/3 70-300 f4-5.6 lens and the OM mft 75 -300 f4.8 - 6.7 for bird photography on the newer camera bodies. The original 4/3 lenses can sometimes be found for around 100usd (budget friendly) and is half an f stop faster (but may or may not be slower to focus with the newer cameras ?).
I've not tried 4/3 lenses on my cameras. I've heard different opinions of the slower AF, but I'd have to guess that some are probably slower due to differences in AF designs. Some use voice coils on a single element, some physical stepping motors over multiple elements, etc...
I have a 4/3 70-300 and an Olympus adapter (came with my first EM-1). I would say it would not be successful for BIF as the focus is really slow even with an OM-1. For static subjects such as insects it is good and its close focus ability is an asset compared to the M4/3 75-300.
@@RobTrek Thank you Rob and Bob for the replies. I am trying out the 4/3rds 50 -200 f 2.8-3.5 lens for bird photography and will report back my results.
Rob: I think one of my OM-D E-M1's sort-died. Even after a reset, the shutter _will not_ go below 1/8 second! I tried everything I know of, and that shutter still bottoms out at 1/8s. My camera has never been dropped, in water, or abused in any way. When I contacted OM Systems, on another matter, they mentioned, or I inquired, about the lack of apparent support, of any kind, for the original OM-D E-M1; and they confirmed this. Do you know of anywhere this camera can be repaired? Is it just a loss? I've seen used Mark 1's going inexpensively on eBay. What do you think I should do? Gosh, if I could get another OM-1 right now, I would. I do Weddings -- and was thinking of my Mark 1's as backups. Your thoughts?
AWESOME! I was wondering about that focusing deal. Also I’ve never used shutter priority before. I’m going out bird shooting tomorrow and will give it a try. QUESTION; do you ever use the tracking feature? QUESTION; have you tried the TC 1.4 on the 300mm f/4? What do you think? I’ve tried it and found that I’m not able to tell the difference between a photo shot with the TC and one I just cropped without the converter.
I'd be interested in Rob's answers to your questions -- but here is my take. Question #1 - It seems to be the general consensus that C-AF + Tracking does not work as well as C-AF without Tracking -- with Tracking, the focus box tends to jump around and not stay on the subject as well as just C-AF. Question #2 - I do not own the TC 1.4, nor the 300mm f/4 -- I own the Oly 100-400mm (I may yet get the 300mm as it is such a great lens). That said, I think your observation about the TC 1.4 vs cropping is pretty accurate -- which is exactly why I am such a big proponent of using the DTC (Digital Teleconverter). With the DTC I get a 2X FOV with zero loss of speed. In other words your 300mm f/4 effectively becomes a 600mm f/4 lens for Jpeg capture purposes (plus you get the uncropped RAW file if shooting RAW + Jpeg). Here is one benefit of the DTC that few understand -- let's say you shoot a bird on a branch without the DTC, and you compose the image using the 'rule of thirds' for framing the bird, the bird will be placed in one of the quadrants away from the center of the lens. However, if you do that same shot with the DTC for a much tighter composition, again using a 'rule of thirds' placement of the bird in the frame, you have just moved the bird much closer to the center of the lens, which is optically the sharpest area of the lens.
But, but but, the OM-1, E-Miii and G9 are clean at ISO 3200, onset of noise only if you pixel peep deeply, which makes ISO 6400 and ISO 12800 useable with a trifle of post NR. BIF are often well-lit in the sky &h low ISO, and then S-Shutter has flung the aperture wide-open. A-Aperture has a minimum shutter speed. We get little fiddle time with BIF so we have to be set up and ready, even with compensation for back lighting and/or spot metering.
@@RobTrek I've recently seen a perfect ISO 12800 of a butterfly from an OM-1 (not mine). I do use Photolab 6 Elite which has all the Deep Prime stuff but find less is more with its NR. If you ain't got noise, don't fix it ;) I'm fond of early morning shots, the light is special. I experimented with ISO 25600 and was surprised that some actually worked; they would need work in post and better to keep the ISO lower, but if you need that shutter speed ...
My advice? Turn off Subject Detection- too many false hits. Learn about your subject rather than watching videos from OMDS-supported salesmen and buying new gear.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would add that there is very little a skilled photographer that knows their subject can't capture without all the technology. For the record, I'm not supported by OMDS although I am a big fan of the m4/3 format.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
No one , no one explained it better than you…and I searched a lot….!!!!…thx
excellent explanation how AF on birds works.
Thank you!
Thank you for your helpful explanations. Regards from Germany.
You are welcome!
Absolutely superb explanation & demonstrations of technique Rob...thank you....🙏🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Thank's a lot Rob for this useful advice! In future I also will shoot BIF with shutter priority - it makes more sense than in manual mode. Manual mode means controlling everthing: Aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation, but in a hurry it ist too much for my brain too. It works well for static motifs like forests, flowers and mushrooms.
Thanks for sharing. I'm glad shutter priority is working for you too.
Thanks Rob! This is a very clear and logical explanation of your methods.
Thanks. I try.
Thanks! Appreciate the explanation!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Rob. Another excellent video with practical demos, which aids the understanding and learning.
Thanks. I try.
wow finally a simple and clear explanation, thanks.
Glad it helped!
Thanks, Rob 👍 I've been a diehard manual shooter for years but just a few months ago decided to try shutter priority, it's been a revelation! Also interesting to find out more about the subject detect settings etc.
Thanks. It works best for me too.
Really useful! Thanks Rob
Great explanation and illustration of the C-AF sensitivity settings Rob. Thanks for your time and effort making this.
Thanks!
Very clear explanations Rob! Love your videos -- they are very helpful.
Thanks. I try.
Great explanations Rob, as always. The best Oly educator, from OMD EM10 MKII up to OM-1! 👋👋👋
Great video Rob. I am around 6 weeks away from having an OM-1 in my hands and this video will help a lot. Thank you in advance.
Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you!
Also a great technique for shooting event work where multiple faces will confuse the AF too 👍
Absolutely!
Perfect explanation
Thanks!
Great explanation!! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for answering my question regarding the exposure settings Rob. I would be worried that my aperture would increase in bright light conditions. I want the maximum shallow depth of field possible, that's why I set it manually. To each their own. Maybe I'll try your method in my next outing, today in the Algarve to see what happens with the aperture.
Sounds good. Let me know how it goes. I've rarely run into a situation where my aperture isn't anything but wide open when doing BIF.
Your terminology is confused. In bright light vs lower light your aperture would decrease, not increase -- your f-stop will increase -- they are not the same thing. I agree with Rob's philosophy. I know what shutter speed I want, and for just about any flying bird, that shutter speed will be high enough to require a wide open aperture. I generally use Auto ISO for any BIF shooting.
You need to use what works best for you.
HI. IJUST GOT MY OM1 AND FOUND ANOTHER WAY OF USING MANUAL EXPOSURE. I SET THE LOWEST APERTURE AND THE SPEED YOU WANT PLUS AUTO ISO. THEN I CHANGE TO C1, WHERE THE FRONT DIAL CONTROLS SHUTTER AND BACK DIAL EXP. COMP.
THEN YOU HAVE A KIND OF FAKE SHUTTER PRIORITY ( ALWAYS KEEP THE LOWEST APERTURE, THAT CANNOT BE CHANGED). THAT WAY YOU CAN LEAVE YOUR FINGER ON THE SHUTTER AND COMPENSATE WITH THE THUMB (WILL CHANGE ISO). VERY FAST
Wow...Rob you really work at all this. Using minus 2 helped but using the lever to move between full and cross AF points was the big help. Now if you can explain how to tie all this in to my mind so I can move the focus point instantly when the bird jumps around it would be great!!! Thank you so much. There are multiple ways to move the focus point though...right? Maybe if you have not yet covered that then you might try another video to explain this action on the OM1.
Joe McGrath
Glad it helped. Yes, there are many ways to move the focus point. I'll have to work on that one. Thanks.
If you want your E-M10ii (my E-PL7) to follow-focus quickly when you're doing a talking-head vlog behind a desk, to switch to your hand or "product" and back - turn the recognition off and aim the AF-C focus point(s) at your head. Anything placed in front of you will grab the focus. Otherwise it will try to stay with the "actor", for much the same reason as the OM-1 sensitivity makes it sticky. This applies to most any camera used for this.
Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try.
Hello Rob and thanks for all the informative videos. I'm the new owner of the OM-1 Mk2 and learning a lot from your videos. I
have a question on saving all my settings. I have saved them to my computer can they be also saved to an SD card and loaded back into the camera if/when required?
There's no way to save to SD card that I am aware of. You can save to your computer or using the phone app.
Hi Rob. I use the focus analyzer of om workspace but I do not really trust it. Often I find the images listed far down in the focus order to be sharper than those listed at the top. Do you have any experience of the focus analyzer and have you tested it carefully?
Per
I tried it a couple of times and found it unreliable and haven't used it since.
Hi Rob, I love your video's and I've learned a lot. I shoot most in manuel mode and I have set mt front dial to ISO and the rear dial to shutterspeed. But then EC will not work anymore because it needs a dial to work with. Is ther another option to get this work.
Greetz from The Netherlands
On the OM-1, in manual mode, EC only works with Auto-ISO. So if you set your ISO to anything else, EC is disabled. If you're in auto-iso, you can push and hold the EC button which is behind the shutter button and rotate the front or read dial. You can also change EC in the Super Control Panel.
@@RobTrek You're the best. Never thought about that option. Thnx for helping me out🙏
Hi Rob.
I am trying to figure out how to set up a button to change between C-AF and S-AF. It is impractical to take the camera off my eyes and press the button on the top left and then choose one or the other. When I try to assign a button, changing AF mode doesn't seem am option. This doesn't make sense, am I missing something. The workaround would be to assign a button to custom setting. Is that the only way in your extensive exploration?
Found it. What I wanted was using the lever control, but i didn't dig deep enough. Mode 2 and then dig deeper by pushing the Info button, but I am sure you knew that already.
Looks like you found the two options to achieve this. Yes, put function lever into mode 2. I actually recorded a clip showing that but forgot to put it into this video!
I like to use shutter priority with manual lenses also. Rear dial controls shutter speed, front dial controls compensation, lens controls aperture and ISO is set to auto.
I would like to see a comparison of an adapted OM original 4/3 70-300 f4-5.6 lens and the OM mft 75 -300 f4.8 - 6.7 for bird photography on the newer camera bodies. The original 4/3 lenses can sometimes be found for around 100usd (budget friendly) and is half an f stop faster (but may or may not be slower to focus with the newer cameras ?).
I've not tried 4/3 lenses on my cameras. I've heard different opinions of the slower AF, but I'd have to guess that some are probably slower due to differences in AF designs. Some use voice coils on a single element, some physical stepping motors over multiple elements, etc...
I have a 4/3 70-300 and an Olympus adapter (came with my first EM-1). I would say it would not be successful for BIF as the focus is really slow even with an OM-1. For static subjects such as insects it is good and its close focus ability is an asset compared to the M4/3 75-300.
PS Bird subject detect does work with this lens.
@@boboneill1828 Thanks for sharing!
@@RobTrek Thank you Rob and Bob for the replies. I am trying out the 4/3rds 50 -200 f 2.8-3.5 lens for bird photography and will report back my results.
Rob: I think one of my OM-D E-M1's sort-died. Even after a reset, the shutter _will not_ go below 1/8 second! I tried everything I know of, and that shutter still bottoms out at 1/8s. My camera has never been dropped, in water, or abused in any way.
When I contacted OM Systems, on another matter, they mentioned, or I inquired, about the lack of apparent support, of any kind, for the original OM-D E-M1; and they confirmed this.
Do you know of anywhere this camera can be repaired? Is it just a loss? I've seen used Mark 1's going inexpensively on eBay. What do you think I should do?
Gosh, if I could get another OM-1 right now, I would. I do Weddings -- and was thinking of my Mark 1's as backups.
Your thoughts?
Hi. I answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/TV2gPvKJjDM/видео.html
AWESOME! I was wondering about that focusing deal. Also I’ve never used shutter priority before. I’m going out bird shooting tomorrow and will give it a try.
QUESTION; do you ever use the tracking feature?
QUESTION; have you tried the TC 1.4 on the 300mm f/4? What do you think? I’ve tried it and found that I’m not able to tell the difference between a photo shot with the TC and one I just cropped without the converter.
I'd be interested in Rob's answers to your questions -- but here is my take.
Question #1 - It seems to be the general consensus that C-AF + Tracking does not work as well as C-AF without Tracking -- with Tracking, the focus box tends to jump around and not stay on the subject as well as just C-AF.
Question #2 - I do not own the TC 1.4, nor the 300mm f/4 -- I own the Oly 100-400mm (I may yet get the 300mm as it is such a great lens). That said, I think your observation about the TC 1.4 vs cropping is pretty accurate -- which is exactly why I am such a big proponent of using the DTC (Digital Teleconverter). With the DTC I get a 2X FOV with zero loss of speed. In other words your 300mm f/4 effectively becomes a 600mm f/4 lens for Jpeg capture purposes (plus you get the uncropped RAW file if shooting RAW + Jpeg).
Here is one benefit of the DTC that few understand -- let's say you shoot a bird on a branch without the DTC, and you compose the image using the 'rule of thirds' for framing the bird, the bird will be placed in one of the quadrants away from the center of the lens. However, if you do that same shot with the DTC for a much tighter composition, again using a 'rule of thirds' placement of the bird in the frame, you have just moved the bird much closer to the center of the lens, which is optically the sharpest area of the lens.
Hi Larry, I answered your questions here: ruclips.net/video/fnXOCN-Xbm0/видео.html
But, but but, the OM-1, E-Miii and G9 are clean at ISO 3200, onset of noise only if you pixel peep deeply, which makes ISO 6400 and ISO 12800 useable with a trifle of post NR.
BIF are often well-lit in the sky &h low ISO, and then S-Shutter has flung the aperture wide-open. A-Aperture has a minimum shutter speed. We get little fiddle time with BIF so we have to be set up and ready, even with compensation for back lighting and/or spot metering.
I agree. I get high iso images with great results. Even better with Deep Prime noise reduction..
@@RobTrek I've recently seen a perfect ISO 12800 of a butterfly from an OM-1 (not mine). I do use Photolab 6 Elite which has all the Deep Prime stuff but find less is more with its NR. If you ain't got noise, don't fix it ;)
I'm fond of early morning shots, the light is special. I experimented with ISO 25600 and was surprised that some actually worked; they would need work in post and better to keep the ISO lower, but if you need that shutter speed ...
For best performance of the sh2 mode, F8 is the fastest recommended.
Is that still true, or was it fixed over camera firmware update?
Hi. I answered your question here: ruclips.net/video/Ibl0V0tVsQw/видео.html
Thanks!
Thank you!
My advice?
Turn off Subject Detection- too many false hits.
Learn about your subject rather than watching videos from OMDS-supported salesmen and buying new gear.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would add that there is very little a skilled photographer that knows their subject can't capture without all the technology. For the record, I'm not supported by OMDS although I am a big fan of the m4/3 format.