In stock form, the 22RTE uses an air flow meter, aka AFM, flapper door, or vane-type meter, to measure the amount of air entering the engine. Please get this bit of terminology right, as an AFM is not a MAF (mass air flow meter), nor is it a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. An AFM measures air flow through what is essentially a mechanical process, where incoming air deflects a flap in an enclosed space. More air coming in = more deflection of the flap. Crudely speaking, a potentiometer is connected to the flap, and as the flap moves, the potentiometer moves, and this shapes the electrical signal that is sent to the ECU. To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock". Remember: Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE. Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE.
My 22re won't start, and figured out it is the afm. I opened the door flapper and it started right away. I guess i have to open my afm and adjust it to have richer flow. Thanks for your explanation.
This Fix does work, but most of the time there's a reason this needs adjusted , and almost always it's the tubing in the intake system has began leaking somewhere..
My tubing is all good on mine but will be trying this tomorrow for a fact just to see if the damn thing will run. I have spark ed I have fuel it should run I would think it ran when I parked it there just not the next morning when I went to leave
My 96 MPV 4x4 starts and dies seconds later, by look closely of your video, noticed that my dial needle is over and stuck to short contact, not the long skinny one. So I bend the short contact towards skinny contact to free needle dial. It works when starts, the needle dial will swing ( air gate open) and short and long skinny stay in contact, the car idles fine. My MAF works. thank you so much It is still cut off at higher rpm, as it could be other issues, like TPS, ,IAC and so on,
Yeah but I thought the fuel pump only kicks on when you're turning the key over am I correct well it must stay on a while too right because I am kind of having the same issue with my 86 4Runner I drove at home parked it went to start it in the morning and it would not start but if I hold my foot to the floor it acts like it wants to start but won't and I can't figure it out it's driving me nuts I have been telling everybody whoever leads me to the culprit I will send them $100 cash in a card and that is a promise
Your relay behind your glovebox has water/corrosion in it. Take a paper clip and jump the fuel pump in the data port under the hood, connect FP to +B. And fuel pump will be on. If that doesn’t turn the fuel pump on the pump itself if bad or the connector at the fuel pump is corroded
Check your opening circuit relay. It is located on the passenger side right above the ecu. If it is bad, it causes symptoms of no start or stalling right after a start.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install back the old one, it starts immediately and does not die (I had other issues with the old one). I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
Sounds like the amf is not sending signal to the computer, the truck will start on the “cold start” injector, but the regular injectors are not coming on, there is no signal from the new AFM to tell the computer to kick on the regular injectors
In stock form, the 22RTE uses an air flow meter, aka AFM, flapper door, or vane-type meter, to measure the amount of air entering the engine. Please get this bit of terminology right, as an AFM is not a MAF (mass air flow meter), nor is it a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor.
An AFM measures air flow through what is essentially a mechanical process, where incoming air deflects a flap in an enclosed space. More air coming in = more deflection of the flap. Crudely speaking, a potentiometer is connected to the flap, and as the flap moves, the potentiometer moves, and this shapes the electrical signal that is sent to the ECU.
To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".
Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE.
My 22re won't start, and figured out it is the afm. I opened the door flapper and it started right away. I guess i have to open my afm and adjust it to have richer flow. Thanks for your explanation.
This Fix does work, but most of the time there's a reason this needs adjusted , and almost always it's the tubing in the intake system has began leaking somewhere..
My tubing is all good on mine but will be trying this tomorrow for a fact just to see if the damn thing will run. I have spark ed I have fuel it should run I would think it ran when I parked it there just not the next morning when I went to leave
I have a 22RE and a 86 4Runner I don't remember seeing Or hearing a fuel pump up there by the motor just in the gas tank is there one there?
Your the best! Thank you brother!
Thank you, great video
My 96 MPV 4x4 starts and dies seconds later, by look closely of your video, noticed that my dial needle is over and stuck to short contact, not the long skinny one. So I bend the short contact towards skinny contact to free needle dial. It works when starts, the needle dial will swing ( air gate open) and short and long skinny stay in contact, the car idles fine. My MAF works. thank you so much
It is still cut off at higher rpm, as it could be other issues, like TPS, ,IAC and so on,
Same problem i am facing now on my supra
Yeah but I thought the fuel pump only kicks on when you're turning the key over am I correct well it must stay on a while too right because I am kind of having the same issue with my 86 4Runner I drove at home parked it went to start it in the morning and it would not start but if I hold my foot to the floor it acts like it wants to start but won't and I can't figure it out it's driving me nuts I have been telling everybody whoever leads me to the culprit I will send them $100 cash in a card and that is a promise
Your relay behind your glovebox has water/corrosion in it. Take a paper clip and jump the fuel pump in the data port under the hood, connect FP to +B. And fuel pump will be on. If that doesn’t turn the fuel pump on the pump itself if bad or the connector at the fuel pump is corroded
Check your opening circuit relay. It is located on the passenger side right above the ecu. If it is bad, it causes symptoms of no start or stalling right after a start.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install back the old one, it starts immediately and does not die (I had other issues with the old one). I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
Sounds like the amf is not sending signal to the computer, the truck will start on the “cold start” injector, but the regular injectors are not coming on, there is no signal from the new AFM to tell the computer to kick on the regular injectors
@@livertickedoutfitters2797 That sounds like a possibility. I will check it, thanks.
Thank you! Just had this issue this morning and now I know what to check!
Esto se calibra con el carro encendido.
Por lo menos danos una explicacion por que tiene que estas encendido el carro mie
ntras Este se ajusta
Don't listen to this guy.
Thanks a lot