Gentlemen, not only does Ben give you good content & great information - he has the Experience & Proof to back it up! Todays video was directed towards the "street enthusiast" with limited knowledge & funds...If you watch Ben's videos over the last couple of years, he is consistent with his theories, philosophies, and direction in which he guides his clients / followers...Thats why you can TRUST this man with your "build"... With out question, Ben is one of the BEST at his game!! Thank you Ben - Gregory / Paramus NJ
Hello Ben I always enjoy how you put people on the right track this was a good video comparing a 302 to a 351 , I have alot of stories I could tell you about alot of our friends car's running with ported steel heads such as our buddies car runs mid 10s on motor, full weight coupe with a stroker Windsor with ported 351w heads he surprises alot of people with this car, and our other friend did exactly what you say not to do and put afr 165 heads on a stroker and then wonders why our car out runs him with ported e7 heads, I always look forward to your videos ben when it comes to this performance stuff here that you talk about , your the best guy on RUclips in my opinion you just can't beat experience my friend, once again thanks for sharing with us Ben 👍
Thanks Terry! Years ago I was the first to win the then emerging heads up race format all over the states called "Musclecar Showdown" with a small block! It was dominated by big blocks of course and we all used factory heads and a few with aluminum heads if they can find them and ran them as well. I had tons of work on mine and did a lot of testing at the track. Gained a lot of insight and many today, with their 9:1 builds for NA or even nitrous hits use aluminum heads which drastically lose their thermal efficiency and the car will not respond! Remember I said "compression" increases an engines "sensitivity" to changes and that was true then and truer more today! Run some decent street compression with worked up stock heads or aluminum and it will have some guts! lol
@benalamedaracing2765 Ben I really wish I could of met you back in the day it would have been great to hang out because I surely see eye to eye with you but I'm sure anyone who knows anything would look up to you , Ben one thing I do different that goes against all head porters I don't worry about the 89 to 92 percent rule but maybe I'm giving up something by thinking like that idn always great hearing from you
@@terrygrover6440, running/porting stock heads is very difficult to adhere to the throat diameters and remotely possible if you used oversize valves. Mostly if it is stock that is what you have to work with and try to fix it as much as possible! I see where you are coming from because been there and know how it is these is how we end up and agree with you!
Thank you, great information! I have a D4 351 with forged pistons and pro-topline 210 cc iron heads. engine still has stock crank with football rods. This set up has been alive for 15 years on the street with a borg warner s480 turbo at 15 psi. 351's are very tough!
If you have the factory Cleveland cranks they are strong forgings. The rods are ok and have limitations but much better than the straight cut connecting rods even with ARP bolts.
@@chestrockwell8328 funny u say that, my screen name is that because of all the people who seem to think because they put the finger print inside a engine it will last at 8000rpm, I feel bad for poor ol 289's all u hear is" man she spins to 8000 all day" I ask were is it, they say well it lost a rod,lol I no what a 8000rpm small block takes to live there, I spent enough just to make it live at 7000, but mines still together!
Here you go, stud. Everthing has to be perfect. A balanced assembly, forged rods with ARP bolts. The proper clearances on your bearings, clearances on your piston skirts is extremely critical. Your rockers need to be hi dollar and the valve stems matched in length and springs set up perfectly by the machine shop you trust with your life. If youre road racing where you motor is living at 6-8k rpms your intake vally and lower block walls need to be polished or powder coated so oil doesnt stick the sides, youll need a drysump oild syatem and that alone all set up is $8000. If your playing on the street, in the end, build a boss 351Cleavland block build with a 4.155 bore and 3 3/4 stroke is plenty of motor with an 8 quart oil pan and install a rev limitter 7k is all you need but set the limitter at 7500 rpms if you just have to brag. The motor you want with the best oarts will cost you $12,000. And it still might blow up tomorrow. Large oil sump, rods and bolts and rocker and valve tech is important over 6500rpm. I hope i have scared you out of the idea of life at 8000 rpms. Basicly, you need a sprint car engine and drysump and they blow up all the time anyway. Do you have the money to play at 8000rpm? Money to have a replacement in the garage to keep your street status when it blows, cause at 8,000 rpm, its block crank rod and if tiy sucked a rod, that head needs replaced too. Now we are talking like 3200 bucks all set up. ARE YOU A HIGH ROLLER? $$,$$$@chestrockwell8328
Thankyou for sharing mr Alameda. Here in Australia the ls mob run for the hills when ford intec or barra turn up no v8 king off the street in Australia inline 6 smokes them silly .last time I looked there was a barra 2200 hp at rear wheels running around.should check they barra out mr Alameda peace p.s I do love me a 351 ive been after this engine for years still on workshop floor 20 years later im going to get it .ha ha ha .
Great video Ben. So much good info. I want to build a 351w with a vortech v3 someday for my mustang and doing a junkyard build sounds perfect with some big heads. Unfortunately finding 351w motors up her in canada is not easy.
I been building a 410w all forged , dss high compression pistons and Victor jr heads 61cc . Came out to 13.5:1 I have a solid roller Howard’s 640 lift NOS came was going to use . Probably be race gas at first , I want try E85 eventually but not if I spray it . I’d rather run boost just can’t afford to do so . I just got a couple chevtards to beat up on to prove a point . Lol
Hey Ben, question for you about one of your early videos. You said run a single ring piston, no second ring as long as you have a good cylinder with no blow by. I’m wondering how long will a sbf run on a single ring, a few runs down the strip ? Couple thousand miles ? Thanks for all your very informative videos !!!
I ran mine for years with no second so the wear on the top ring does not change at all and as long as your oil rings are not too loosened up big time you will be good using a little advantage such as no second ring among many other tricks in the book!
For me it comes down to cubic dollars spent & I have been a Ford guy pretty much my whole life but if I was starting from scratch with a rolling chassis it would be an LS simply because I can buy a rusted out 3/4 ton truck or van for 1500$ or less and get a complete running engine, trans & computer! On the other hand I go to a junkyard and might find a under 200k mile 351 that needs no machine work but I need to buy a set of heads which is going to be 3k by the time it's all over for American made high port heads! Then I have to buy a cam, intake, injectors, throttle body and an aftermarket computer because im not running an almost 40 year old EEC IV just to have a running engine but I still have to get a transmission that could hold what any 4l80E can so you're in a pretty nice hole just to stay brand loyal! One of my mentors had a 71 Mach 1 with a 427 Chevy in it in the 1970s and he was right when he said that car has no idea what kind of engine powers it!
Wow! your mentor had to have custom hedders to fit that plus custom motor and trans mount! It can get very expensive when you do transplants! lol Whatever floats your boat I am in on it and be happy.
@@benalamedaracing2765 I don't know if I would call it custom because calling him a hack would be an understatement but if he had some steel and a welder he could make anything work!
@@benalamedaracing2765 He hacked & fabbed everything himself & nothing he owned was a beauty queen but every car I ever remember him having ran really well for what it was.
@@thegraystang66 No one is saying you cannot find a running engine at a salvage yard for a fair price. Now go buy the parts needed to make it run what a 5.3 with a cam & springs can do & do the math!
A 351W block is just as capable as a production LS block in terms of holding the forces of power and torque. The LS has a much bigger following because people are ignorant when it comes to Ford stuff.
Great job Ben your the man,are early model 302better than late,also some stroker kits fit one piece or 2piece rear main seals how so,have 61falcon so hard to install 351,
This will be unrelated to the topics covered in this video but I have a question. I have a 850 brawler carb for my 357w. Is it too big? Would it be big enough for me to run e85? I haven't finished the build and fired it up at all, but I'm curious what you think. Hope all is well, and keep the videos coming!
Joey, it is a bit big for street even with e85 except if you have high compression for the street in your engine. Dyno will show an increase in power but I doubt if it will show up as well at the track specially if you have street gears or auto with no stall converter. Basically it is doable if you have these things to run good.
Which flat top piston is good , between flat top 4 eyebrows...which I have or 2 valve flat...I have a 60 over..with 69 351w doe ,1.94 valves ,and 60cc.also hydraulic flat tappet cam .What cubic in ,is . my engine...going with for a lunati 51025 cam roller.
Live near Dallas. I only know of one wrecking yard, within 100 miles of me, that has a fair share of 302/351 blocks. All the others have zero, except the truck specific wrecker has one, but wants way too much for it. LS' blocks are all over. It's surprising considering how many blocks came out of the Windsor factory! Perhaps because while GM was building LS's, Ford was farting around with that stupid 4.6 mod garbage. Sure do miss that clacking cam phaser sound!
All of the octane boosters that I have researched only raise the octane of a tank of gas by .2 to .4 octane points. That is, from 91 to maybe 91.4. I help several guys who run circle track, and I always push AvGas. I know, alot of guys hate it......"it is only for high altitude use". The way I see this, airplanes take off from ground level, and they usually take off at max power. So apparantly avgas is ok at low altitude. 100ll is the only grade of avgas that is sold in America , and it is intended for every kind of avitaion engine, whether it be a low compression, low power Cessna , or a turbocharged hipo airplane. If you disagree, send me some facts. I ain't gonna argue with you becuase your 2nd cousin blew up his lawn mower in 1983 because he ran avgas. The avgas that I use has a MOTOR OCTANE of over 104, every batch. I see the spec sheets when a batch is barged into the Panama City Florida gas terminal. The motor octane of VP 110 is 107, the last time I looked. Avgas is 104, sometimes over 105 MON. Avgas is around $5 a gallon. Small quantaties of 110 are $10 to $12.
Avgas once it is over 100 is called a performance number If I remember correctly. lol . Avgas is indeed some used them for racing and designed for "constant speed" aviation conditions boosted or NA, these is why you do not hear them change rpms much with a constant speed propellers on many opposed or radial engines. This said many who uses them complain of intake gaskets/TB or carb damage from incompatible with automotive gaskets. perhaps today they make them different so maybe. I would add them to get more out of my fuel but be aware of the leakage that might develop which is evident because some have dye to show any leak stains. Obtw, the reason I am aware because I did graduated degrees in Aerospace Technology studying Opposed engines/Radial engines to Turbine (jet) powerplants.
Today I have to disagree. The main difference between SBC heads and LS heads is the vastly superior LS exhaust flow. This is very advantageus when boosting the engine, right? Pistonrings gives some usefull % increse in horsepower in NA engines. In boosted engines, not so much as the main challenge is to get the engine to live and survive the heat and pressure when boosted. :) This according to Mr. Steve Morris himself. Here a ring test. ruclips.net/video/-29IWc-zrv8/видео.html The best way to get at weak block to survive boosting, is to lower the compression ratio to ridiculus levels as this flattens the combustion pressure curve quite a lot. Devstating Peak cylinder pressure to lovley BMEP ratio gets very much better. :)
The video I specifically stated "equal flowing heads" on the legacy and LS engines. There are other factors as well like the longer/lighter connecting rods, ring position/height was never an issue with legacy Fords/Chevys and they run them low compared to what they manufacture today, all running metric rings for obvious reasons of mileage and power plus efficiencies you can throw in there as well. Now the video you suggested is interesting to say the least and only showed minimal gains! I have seen no gains on flowbenches and the engine is a lot more stronger or perhaps stronger on the dyno and nothing at the track! Dyno's/flowbenches are tools and the racetrack the ultimate judge of truth. Little gains there and some over here all piles up for one sizable advantage and any builder worth their salt would be a fool to say it only made 8 or 6 horsepower! Beside I do not evaluate any of my engines to 6000rpms and I will if I was building tow truck engines or true restoration for purists who want all original. It does not apply to me and strive to find any advantages and as a last comment I do not run their ring pack (1.5) I use 1mm or .043 sometimes thinner with much superior materials sold out there today. Again for any edge I am sure you will as well. Why settle for 1.5 when you can install a 1mm or thinner without compromises? Thanks for your insight thou Finn.
351w/347 ford powah can't be beat 😊 The aftermarket has plenty of parts n,😅 I have a 347 in a pinto and trying to get 500 wheel N/A first, Think its doable? 😊 what⁴⅘
Yeah I knew it was I didn't get to finish what I was saying cause I fell asleep I think but was going to ask if you knew of a certain combo to get it done. Its really close now . Last Dyno was 422rwhp and I've done more to it since so ill be curious about what the next Dyno day says
Gentlemen, not only does Ben give you good content & great information - he has the Experience & Proof to back it up! Todays video was directed towards the "street enthusiast" with limited knowledge & funds...If you watch Ben's videos over the last couple of years, he is consistent with his theories, philosophies, and direction in which he guides his clients / followers...Thats why you can TRUST this man with your "build"... With out question, Ben is one of the BEST at his game!! Thank you Ben - Gregory / Paramus NJ
Thank you sir I am humbled by your kind words...
Awesome content. Don't underestimate a SBF!!!😁
It was never like that before when we had nothing but second rate parts for the Windsors. NOw ther are a lot to choose from.
I cannot wait to finish listening to this video thanks my friend good stuff
Thanks and I am on the planning stage of my video talking points on engine deck heights and desirable configurations from drags to road racing.
Hello Ben I always enjoy how you put people on the right track this was a good video comparing a 302 to a 351 , I have alot of stories I could tell you about alot of our friends car's running with ported steel heads such as our buddies car runs mid 10s on motor, full weight coupe with a stroker Windsor with ported 351w heads he surprises alot of people with this car, and our other friend did exactly what you say not to do and put afr 165 heads on a stroker and then wonders why our car out runs him with ported e7 heads, I always look forward to your videos ben when it comes to this performance stuff here that you talk about , your the best guy on RUclips in my opinion you just can't beat experience my friend, once again thanks for sharing with us Ben 👍
Thanks Terry! Years ago I was the first to win the then emerging heads up race format all over the states called "Musclecar Showdown" with a small block! It was dominated by big blocks of course and we all used factory heads and a few with aluminum heads if they can find them and ran them as well. I had tons of work on mine and did a lot of testing at the track.
Gained a lot of insight and many today, with their 9:1 builds for NA or even nitrous hits use aluminum heads which drastically lose their thermal efficiency and the car will not respond! Remember I said "compression" increases an engines "sensitivity" to changes and that was true then and truer more today!
Run some decent street compression with worked up stock heads or aluminum and it will have some guts! lol
@benalamedaracing2765 Ben I really wish I could of met you back in the day it would have been great to hang out because I surely see eye to eye with you but I'm sure anyone who knows anything would look up to you , Ben one thing I do different that goes against all head porters I don't worry about the 89 to 92 percent rule but maybe I'm giving up something by thinking like that idn always great hearing from you
@@terrygrover6440, running/porting stock heads is very difficult to adhere to the throat diameters and remotely possible if you used oversize valves. Mostly if it is stock that is what you have to work with and try to fix it as much as possible! I see where you are coming from because been there and know how it is these is how we end up and agree with you!
Thank you, great information! I have a D4 351 with forged pistons and pro-topline 210 cc iron heads. engine still has stock crank with football rods. This set up has been alive for 15 years on the street with a borg warner s480 turbo at 15 psi. 351's are very tough!
If you have the factory Cleveland cranks they are strong forgings. The rods are ok and have limitations but much better than the straight cut connecting rods even with ARP bolts.
Ive had 585hp since 2004, original 302 block in my mustang, still together aswell, plenty of races, with hard street drivin
You are good sir! Perhaps because most of the failures we had probably from hard racing.
@@benalamedaracing2765 proper maintenance goes long way sir!! Always lashing valves, changing oil, and no over revving keeps them alive
@@alltherpm What do you consider "over revving" , especially given your screen name? Assuming you are Forced Induction ?
@@chestrockwell8328 funny u say that, my screen name is that because of all the people who seem to think because they put the finger print inside a engine it will last at 8000rpm, I feel bad for poor ol 289's all u hear is" man she spins to 8000 all day" I ask were is it, they say well it lost a rod,lol I no what a 8000rpm small block takes to live there, I spent enough just to make it live at 7000, but mines still together!
Here you go, stud. Everthing has to be perfect. A balanced assembly, forged rods with ARP bolts. The proper clearances on your bearings, clearances on your piston skirts is extremely critical. Your rockers need to be hi dollar and the valve stems matched in length and springs set up perfectly by the machine shop you trust with your life.
If youre road racing where you motor is living at 6-8k rpms your intake vally and lower block walls need to be polished or powder coated so oil doesnt stick the sides, youll need a drysump oild syatem and that alone all set up is $8000.
If your playing on the street, in the end, build a boss 351Cleavland block build with a 4.155 bore and 3 3/4 stroke is plenty of motor with an 8 quart oil pan and install a rev limitter 7k is all you need but set the limitter at 7500 rpms if you just have to brag.
The motor you want with the best oarts will cost you $12,000. And it still might blow up tomorrow.
Large oil sump, rods and bolts and rocker and valve tech is important over 6500rpm.
I hope i have scared you out of the idea of life at 8000 rpms. Basicly, you need a sprint car engine and drysump and they blow up all the time anyway. Do you have the money to play at 8000rpm?
Money to have a replacement in the garage to keep your street status when it blows, cause at 8,000 rpm, its block crank rod and if tiy sucked a rod, that head needs replaced too. Now we are talking like 3200 bucks all set up.
ARE YOU A HIGH ROLLER? $$,$$$@chestrockwell8328
One thing I would like to add in cold weather e85 is hard to start for street cars
Absolutely this is why you hardly see any Hot Rodders in northern Alaska or Antartica! lol
Im going to say that depends on tune. The mustang is a pain to start the f100 first try. Mind you its cold but not freezing out here lol
Thankyou for sharing mr Alameda. Here in Australia the ls mob run for the hills when ford intec or barra turn up no v8 king off the street in Australia inline 6 smokes them silly .last time I looked there was a barra 2200 hp at rear wheels running around.should check they barra out mr Alameda peace p.s I do love me a 351 ive been after this engine for years still on workshop floor 20 years later im going to get it .ha ha ha .
I am not familiar with that Aussie inline 6. I might have to do more research into what makes them run hard.
Great Video Ben cant wait to turn the boost up on the 351W
They have lots of potential!
Great video Ben. So much good info. I want to build a 351w with a vortech v3 someday for my mustang and doing a junkyard build sounds perfect with some big heads. Unfortunately finding 351w motors up her in canada is not easy.
This highlights basic but smart build to maximize your money spent!
Thanks for video!
Your welcome sir and thanks for tuning in.
Love my afr 220s on my na 347
They are very good!
I have a 351 roller short block under my bench waiting for me to catch up to it 🤣
That would be an excellent project block to start with!
I been building a 410w all forged , dss high compression pistons and Victor jr heads 61cc . Came out to 13.5:1
I have a solid roller Howard’s 640 lift NOS came was going to use . Probably be race gas at first , I want try E85 eventually but not if I spray it . I’d rather run boost just can’t afford to do so . I just got a couple chevtards to beat up on to prove a point . Lol
Good luck and everything sounds good!
Hey Ben, question for you about one of your early videos. You said run a single ring piston, no second ring as long as you have a good cylinder with no blow by. I’m wondering how long will a sbf run on a single ring, a few runs down the strip ? Couple thousand miles ? Thanks for all your very informative videos !!!
I ran mine for years with no second so the wear on the top ring does not change at all and as long as your oil rings are not too loosened up big time you will be good using a little advantage such as no second ring among many other tricks in the book!
For me it comes down to cubic dollars spent & I have been a Ford guy pretty much my whole life but if I was starting from scratch with a rolling chassis it would be an LS simply because I can buy a rusted out 3/4 ton truck or van for 1500$ or less and get a complete running engine, trans & computer! On the other hand I go to a junkyard and might find a under 200k mile 351 that needs no machine work but I need to buy a set of heads which is going to be 3k by the time it's all over for American made high port heads! Then I have to buy a cam, intake, injectors, throttle body and an aftermarket computer because im not running an almost 40 year old EEC IV just to have a running engine but I still have to get a transmission that could hold what any 4l80E can so you're in a pretty nice hole just to stay brand loyal! One of my mentors had a 71 Mach 1 with a 427 Chevy in it in the 1970s and he was right when he said that car has no idea what kind of engine powers it!
Wow! your mentor had to have custom hedders to fit that plus custom motor and trans mount! It can get very expensive when you do transplants! lol
Whatever floats your boat I am in on it and be happy.
@@benalamedaracing2765 I don't know if I would call it custom because calling him a hack would be an understatement but if he had some steel and a welder he could make anything work!
@@benalamedaracing2765 He hacked & fabbed everything himself & nothing he owned was a beauty queen but every car I ever remember him having ran really well for what it was.
I paid $900 for the running 5.8 from the salvage yard. lol
@@thegraystang66 No one is saying you cannot find a running engine at a salvage yard for a fair price. Now go buy the parts needed to make it run what a 5.3 with a cam & springs can do & do the math!
A 351W block is just as capable as a production LS block in terms of holding the forces of power and torque. The LS has a much bigger following because people are ignorant when it comes to Ford stuff.
Yes the LS is big because it actually outperforms the legacy SBC big time!
Great job Ben your the man,are early model 302better than late,also some stroker kits fit one piece or 2piece rear main seals how so,have 61falcon so hard to install 351,
That falcon will be tight inside the engine bay with a 351!
This will be unrelated to the topics covered in this video but I have a question. I have a 850 brawler carb for my 357w. Is it too big? Would it be big enough for me to run e85? I haven't finished the build and fired it up at all, but I'm curious what you think. Hope all is well, and keep the videos coming!
Joey, it is a bit big for street even with e85 except if you have high compression for the street in your engine. Dyno will show an increase in power but I doubt if it will show up as well at the track specially if you have street gears or auto with no stall converter. Basically it is doable if you have these things to run good.
Which flat top piston is good , between flat top 4 eyebrows...which I have or 2 valve flat...I have a 60 over..with 69 351w doe ,1.94 valves ,and 60cc.also hydraulic flat tappet cam .What cubic in ,is
. my engine...going with for a lunati 51025 cam roller.
4 valve relief pistons are stock equipment, y waste money on no valve reliefs,
Live near Dallas. I only know of one wrecking yard, within 100 miles of me, that has a fair share of 302/351 blocks.
All the others have zero, except the truck specific wrecker has one, but wants way too much for it.
LS' blocks are all over. It's surprising considering how many blocks came out of the Windsor factory! Perhaps because while GM was building LS's, Ford was farting around with that stupid 4.6 mod garbage.
Sure do miss that clacking cam phaser sound!
I always wondered why Ford did what they did considering the LS is a great platform to start any project.
All of the octane boosters that I have researched only raise the octane of a tank of gas by .2 to .4 octane points. That is, from 91 to maybe 91.4. I help several guys who run circle track, and I always push AvGas. I know, alot of guys hate it......"it is only for high altitude use". The way I see this, airplanes take off from ground level, and they usually take off at max power. So apparantly avgas is ok at low altitude. 100ll is the only grade of avgas that is sold in America , and it is intended for every kind of avitaion engine, whether it be a low compression, low power Cessna , or a turbocharged hipo airplane. If you disagree, send me some facts. I ain't gonna argue with you becuase your 2nd cousin blew up his lawn mower in 1983 because he ran avgas. The avgas that I use has a MOTOR OCTANE of over 104, every batch. I see the spec sheets when a batch is barged into the Panama City Florida gas terminal. The motor octane of VP 110 is 107, the last time I looked. Avgas is 104, sometimes over 105 MON. Avgas is around $5 a gallon. Small quantaties of 110 are $10 to $12.
Avgas once it is over 100 is called a performance number If I remember correctly. lol . Avgas is indeed some used them for racing and designed for "constant speed" aviation conditions boosted or NA, these is why you do not hear them change rpms much with a constant speed propellers on many opposed or radial engines. This said many who uses them complain of intake gaskets/TB or carb damage from incompatible with automotive gaskets. perhaps today they make them different so maybe. I would add them to get more out of my fuel but be aware of the leakage that might develop which is evident because some have dye to show any leak stains.
Obtw, the reason I am aware because I did graduated degrees in Aerospace Technology studying Opposed engines/Radial engines to Turbine (jet) powerplants.
In your opinion what is the best factory cast iron head for a NA 331/347 SBF?
I prefer the N351 cylinder heads by far the best potential for cast iron. Ford Motorsports sells them.
@@benalamedaracing2765 Thank you!
Hey Ben had another idea,would like a tee shirt how about engine give away buy get a chance to win some horspower
I might have to try that one of these days.
I prefer a Cleveland, myself
My favorite as well.
Today I have to disagree. The main difference between SBC heads and LS heads is the vastly superior LS exhaust flow. This is very advantageus when boosting the engine, right?
Pistonrings gives some usefull % increse in horsepower in NA engines. In boosted engines, not so much as the main challenge is to get the engine to live and survive the heat and pressure when boosted. :) This according to Mr. Steve Morris himself.
Here a ring test. ruclips.net/video/-29IWc-zrv8/видео.html
The best way to get at weak block to survive boosting, is to lower the compression ratio to ridiculus levels as this flattens the combustion pressure curve quite a lot.
Devstating Peak cylinder pressure to lovley BMEP ratio gets very much better. :)
The video I specifically stated "equal flowing heads" on the legacy and LS engines. There are other factors as well like the longer/lighter connecting rods, ring position/height was never an issue with legacy Fords/Chevys and they run them low compared to what they manufacture today, all running metric rings for obvious reasons of mileage and power plus efficiencies you can throw in there as well. Now the video you suggested is interesting to say the least and only showed minimal gains! I have seen no gains on flowbenches and the engine is a lot more stronger or perhaps stronger on the dyno and nothing at the track! Dyno's/flowbenches are tools and the racetrack the ultimate judge of truth. Little gains there and some over here all piles up for one sizable advantage and any builder worth their salt would be a fool to say it only made 8 or 6 horsepower! Beside I do not evaluate any of my engines to 6000rpms and I will if I was building tow truck engines or true restoration for purists who want all original. It does not apply to me and strive to find any advantages and as a last comment I do not run their ring pack (1.5) I use 1mm or .043 sometimes thinner with much superior materials sold out there today.
Again for any edge I am sure you will as well. Why settle for 1.5 when you can install a 1mm or thinner without compromises?
Thanks for your insight thou Finn.
I follow gee on instagram. His hp is insane with the blower.
Ayyeeee 😁
His car is impressive for sure!
351w/347 ford powah can't be beat 😊 The aftermarket has plenty of parts n,😅 I have a 347 in a pinto and trying to get 500 wheel N/A first, Think its doable? 😊 what⁴⅘
Of course its doable.
Yeah I knew it was I didn't get to finish what I was saying cause I fell asleep I think but was going to ask if you knew of a certain combo to get it done. Its really close now . Last Dyno was 422rwhp and I've done more to it since so ill be curious about what the next Dyno day says