Great video Nick and George. There were definitely a lot a critters living in that car. As for the comments about the factory A/C we are keeping the cost low so we can keep the performance high. So we can all keep our cool lol....Nick let's go with the 6 pack.
Hi Nick my guess and 2 cents worth is that the oil pan only had 2 bolts because it was off another engine that had spun a bearing. The original was probably either damaged or possibly rusted and leaking. The core/frost plugs were replaced probably due leaking. The engine was sitting a long time and obviously got water intrusion, causing the valve to rust. Someone tried to check if the engine would turn by hand breaking the valve and of course it could not make full rotation after the valve was broken. Years later and critter house gifted you finally opened up the mouse & bug house gem. I expect you will give the core a new lease on life and the owner will be very pleased. Keep up the great videos and bring more of the 70's back to life.
Yep rusted valve stuck in valve guide. 41:47 you can see a little dark line in the left side, that is first time, when valve had broken, another scratch in bottom side you can see, that is second time when valve part had sleep on the piston
I been working on cars for 55 years. You, Nick, are a true gentleman, knowledgeable, calm, no attitude. People in any type of work would do well watching these videos. They show a man that knows his job, and knows how to work.
I'm a certified master tech with a CA. smog cert and several years of trade school / college in auto repair. Nick is one of the best teachers I've ever had. after decades of trouble shooting & wrenching on cars I find Nicks Garage usefull & educational. Thanks Nick.
i think what you have is a set of rods from another motor that had spun bearings but the rods were good . this motor probably had bent rods so they used spun bearing rods from another motor
I grew up in the 80/90’s watching halfway “ok” automotive shows on cable TV. 15 years of watching RUclips and im still blown away by this kind of quality content. I pay for RUclips premium but it’s 10x better than Cable TV and 1/10th the cost. Thank you Nick and team.
This video is well put together. No loudness, very subtle music in the background. Nick, you're a master craftsman and have the gift of being able to explain in easy terms what you are doing. Tres bien!
Maybe there were two 70 Chargers with two 440s in different states of disassembly. He slapped one back together to sell it. And put it back in the car to pass the savings on to the next guy. There's no way that valve dropped while that motor was running. And that bearing was just left in there by some mechanic that didn't care. Thanks for taking us along on the exploratory. You rock Nick, you rock heavy.
Hi Nick, I work two days a week on maintaining and fixing old (50-ties and 60-ties) Ex Army Landrovers. I'm 68 years old and my best friend is my little Impact (max 260Nm) wrench. I do every nut and bolt with it, otherwise I can't hold my spoon when having dinner at the end of the day😊. For the havy nuts and bolts, the more heavy impact wrench (400Nm). That keeps me moving😁
Yes Nick, please do a rebuild video of this 440 Magnum engine. Love to see the process and your tips. I’m an old time mechanic that had a mid-life crisis and went back to school to become a Mechanical Engineer, Designer, and a CADD Operator. I love the mechanics of how things work. Keep up the good work Nick. Your an inspiration to all of us.
This is actually a really nice score for the buyer!!! A complete set of OEM 6-pack rods with a matching balancer is worth quite a bit by themselves. But a complete re-buildable matching #'s engine to go with that car, priceless!!!
I've watched other engine tear down videos and there is just something about watching Nick tearing one down that makes it better. I think it must be his experience. "The head gasket should be .020 thick. This one is .040 thick." Then explains that lowers compression and a loss of power. I'd LOVE to see a rebuild video with Nick doing the rebuild.
What Nick does, which others don't, is pass on little tid-bits of info as he goes along. For instance, when he's prying off the timing chain cover, or another cover, he says to pry it at the bolt hole point so as not to stretch the metal, etc. Others never say little tips like this, but for Nick its just another hint on how to do things correctly.
@@bobkonradi1027 Yep, and how things should be done. That may be it for me. Putting forth the effort to do the job right. Do it right or not at all. And like you said the tidbits and tricks to help keep it that way.
Yes Nick, please do a rebuild video of this 440 Magnum engine. Love to see the process and your tips. I’m an old time mechanic that had a mid-life crisis and went back to school to become a Mechanical Engineer, Designer, and a CADD Operator. I love the mechanics of how things work. Keep up the good work Nick. Your an inspiration to all of us.
I will more than likely never tear down an engine but watching a master like Nick, very entertaining and interesting. What a wealth of knowledge and experience.
I know zero about engines and engine work, but I love watching Nick break down engines. Your knowledge of your trade is the most enjoyable part, for me.
I recall my friend had another friend from shop that was a 70' White RR, Then we saw a Brown 🤎 71' RR on a used car lot. It was a slap stick it still had the Chrome exhaust tips! Good 👍 Luck with that 440 Nick. Best wishes. Miss the 70's cars was every where & cheap!
I give it a shot on why the valve head have fallen.. if you look at the piston, it's really oxydate compared to the others... and the cylinder head is really rusted compare to the other... what I think .. it was the creatures pipi room! Pipi creates alot of amoniac that is corrosive... it attacked the valve stem that was maybe sticking out more then the others... a weakness issue on the stem .. when you tried to turn the engine by hand, the piston hit it and it snapped... or the rust with time snapped it!?... that's my take on it.! Loved that video! 👍
I'm with you on that Dj! My thought was the critter had already dropped his nut shells in there for some time then someone came along and put a pair of jumper cable on it - cranked it and the piston came up to "crushed nut" height and broke the valve off which stopped the crank-over cold turkey before it made one complete revolution.
The ends where the valve snapped are totally rusted. If Nick had snapped the valve off when rotated the crank, the ends would have some amount of non-rusty metal showing. More likely scenario is that somebody tried rotating it by hand in the past and the valve, weakened by either water or mouse urine, snapped.
Creative thinking but not the cause of failure at all. That engines last run cycle left the crank at compression stoke of #7 piston (you can tell by the amount of rust on the bad cylinder wall only half way up as well as the amount of rust on the other walls). That means that it was on exhaust stroke of #5 and also why that valve was broke. When the valve is left wide open it is exposing air to the whole cylinder and dries stuff out resulting in rusted valve stem. When someone tried to turn the engine over it was trying to pull the valve back up into the guide and got stuck from not enough clearancing. I am willing to put money on the guides being knurled. Yes your theory is likely a contributing factor but not the cause. I have seen this happen several times, mostly in coastal areas with high salt content in the air.
The bearing mystery! I suppose it's possible that the oil pan was ready to be installed, could have been on the floor, next to a workbench where the offending, previously installed bearing was at, precariously at the edge. An interruption ensues, the mechanic leaves the area and voila, the unwanted bearing slides off the edge of the workbench and into the oil pan. The mechanic comes back from break, does not look into the pan and assembly continues. Ya know " stuff" happens!
That valve is made from 2 pieces, the head and the stem and they are friction welded or joined together with a similar process. Crevice corrosion set in at the weld and popped the head off while the engine sat so you are correct, the engine never ran with the head loose in the cylinder. Interesting video, thanks Nick!
Total agreement. That cylinder filled with water (obviously!) during the engine's long nap, corroded the two-piece joint, and the continuous valvespring pressure popped it off.
Back starting in the 60's through the 70 I must have refreshed and pumped up 75 -100 engines and a few since those days.. I have never seen the stuff you found in this baby.. Although the bearing could have been dropped and wedged in at the factory to come loose and beat around after.. But other than that.. Damned if I know.. But this was fantastic.. Thanks so much for sharing this..
I’m with Mr. Nick. That valve head was never off when the engine was running. I think it was cracked, and then later when it sat for years as a critter palace, rust jacking popped the valve head off. That looks like a low mileage engine. Not much cylinder ridge, because the piston came out easily. I’m sure Mr. Nick will make it run like a top. Take care.
That valve broke off when trying to spin the motor over by hand. After sitting for a long time. Rust and age reared it's head. Lucky it didn't break off while running.
@marclobato9690 It was probably rusted open from sitting for ages, and then when someone turned it over, the valve was now off the nose of the cam lobe, and the valve spring pressure eventually win the battle with the stuck valve and it snapped back closed, snapping it off..... 🤷
I love these engine teardown sessions they're so interesting and cool and I love how you explain everything neck I wish I could work with you one day thank you again for everything you do
Love the vids. I rebuilt a 66 FE 428 engine that was laying in mud for 40 years in 2021. I found mostly insects and mud in there. A Dallas, Tx location. Engine was in a T-Bird. After 3 months of bench work I got it running. Re-installed and sold the car in December 2022. Car was in a covered barn with a tarp over it. Texas registration said March 1982 on the glass. Rebuilt a 1965 283 from the same outdoor mudhole. It needed machine shop work and was bored 0.030 over to 292 cid. Heads were machined and all new parts including the crank. Had terrible thrust wear. GM code said it was in a C-10 truck. It's on a stand I built and in my workshop for fun. I start it from time to time. My first tear down was a Mopar 383 in 1974. I was 17 and the engine came from my 69 Roadrunner. Needed rings and bearings. I sold that 69 Roadrunner for $900 in 1979. Love your channel. I'm not a mechanic but my shop is fully stocked so I am a weekend warrior. I want to get into the LS world next.
Thank you Nick!!! I find myself turning every bolt with you step by step. I’ve never tore down a 440. This was a fun experience. Love your show. Great filming George!
I graduated high school in 1972. Many families, back then, gifted their children with a new car when they turned driving age, or shortly thereafter. My best friend got a 1970 Charger RT, just like this one. My father owned a service station/garage, so I opted for a 1969 Nova from our pull-in lot, a brand new crate 1970 LT-1 (from the dealer) and a 12 bolt posi with 514 gear. Also a Mr. Gasket in-line shifter in my modified m-22 rock-crusher tranny. (Filed off every-other brass tooth on the synchronizer rings). Replaced the camshaft, BEFORE even installing the engine with a Sig Erson 990 SB. .550 lift 318 degree duration with 102 degree overlap. Also installed a 1 degree advance camshaft bushing, an 850 cfm Holley double-pumper, making the vacuum operated secondaries mechanical, by installing a metal screw in the secondary linkage. On the street, he ate my lunch, but at the TRACK, I killed him at our local 1/8 mile track..
Nick! I really think your a blessing to everyone. If people ain't watching your videos; no wonder I see a lot cars just sitting in their storage yards. Trying figure out what wrong with the engine. Accumulating more storage cost; and still trying to figure out what's up with the engine. Mechanics lack of training, and knowledge. Nick! I will everyday to watch your RUclips video at night. My quiet time. Just me and Nick. God blessing Mechanic Master.
Hello Nick & George, wow that was an amazing tear down, 90 thou at top of piston to bottom of head, then part of a bearing and live stock in the sump, my oh my what did Stephane bring you to rebuild/restore Nick! I'm sure it will be better than new when you work your magic though. Cheers for sharing and stay well all and safe all.
After watching quite a few of Nick’s videos, it’s obvious that he is a passionate teacher of motor building. I bet he’s forgotten more than many people know about engines and racing engines specifically. I’ve learned a lot watching him spin his motor magic.
Another great instructional video, Nick! As I told you in a previous video comment, I'm rebuilding a 440 from a 67' imperial based on all your videos which I've watched & saved from the beginning. I've never rebuilt a motor before. It's the same motor as the one you built for the young man Nicholas, who's putting his in a 67' Belevedere. I've got the motor torn down now, and she's never been opened up before, everything is original, and I've seen no damage. Everything came apart pretty easy thanks to all your instruction & tips!!..and using the right tools (all hand tools). I wore the gardening gloves too!! Now, I'm getting ready to send her out to be hot tanked, checked for micro-cracks and bored out over 30. Thanks Nick, I could have never done any of this without you!!! Blessings to you! You made my dream possible!
Wow what a flashback to my younger years , Dad had a 440 6 pack, Those were the good old days . I bought a 73 challenger and dropped the 440 in it . Dad put a 383 auto in his charger so he could drive to Kings Bay sub base for work . Mostly all I needed was the straight motor mounts and to shorten the driveshaft to match up to his 410 dana 60 rear end posi and I had a bad hot rod for High school. Oh yea we swapped his 410 and installed a 383 rear end in the charger for the higher gear and highway speeds. But I did have to build it first, it just would not be right if I did not put some hop ups on it before installing it .Great video Nick
I had the same thing happen to my 1969 Bonneville in about 1980 Nick! when I pulled the head off it pushed the piston sideways in the block an cracked it. that was a 428 engine and I was heartbroken! I bought another 428 and moved on. thanks for another great video Nick!
Nick - I LOVE your no nonsense approach to engine building and rebuilding. Back in the day I did many rebuilds of late 60's and 70's small blocks and big blocks. Was a landscape guy during the day and summers, working in the shop nights with a master mechanic in winter rebuilding all their engines in trucks and tractors. Minimum 12 hour days (only 1/2 day right?) but learned A LOT. Retired from the insurance biz. LOL, but can still see most every part inside those old engines. Small and big block chevy's and MOPAR. I came to greatly appreciate the the small block 327 and most of all the longevity we could get from the MOPAR 360 Magnums. That is if we used the best rebuild parts available. I see you do the same. Really appreciate your knowledge and wisdom.
Car sat for a long time, the valve stems rusted while open, then someone turned the engine with the valves stuck open. The valve broke when the piston came up, but the engine wasn't running, only got turned.
Very enjoyable and educational. I've owned three 440 magnum cars. I didn't know that the magnum engines came with windage trays from the factory. Thanks as always.
Just discovered nick today in a photo from Carlisle Mopar nationals. Looked up his RUclips. If I could just have a shred of knowledge this man has I’d be a happy man. Well done sir and thank you for the great content!
I'm was a teenager in the muscle car era, there's no way to describe how wealthy I would be rt now if I had kept all the cars owned back then, it would be in the 8 figures easily,specially with the mopars I owned, it's enough to make a man cry,,,,but I was a crazy teenager having fun,,,,,I paid $500 to a woman for a '69 RT Dodge Dart 340 magnum with the X heads that she only uses grocery shopping,,,,she laughed that I paid her that much for a car that roared so loudly,,,,,,,that's just one of many true stories, I won't even mention what I paid an off the wall car salesman for the '70 Roadrunner in 1972,,,, you wouldn't believe that one anyways ! Love your videos Nick, I know every bolt on those yesterday pieces of ART !
Great video as usual!! As for bearing in the oil pan, I found a connecting rod bearing in the oil pan of a 360 I rebuilt. All the bearings were in place, no damage. Same mystery Nick
Nick's Garage: FWIW, I owned a '69 Charger RT w/ the 440 engine. It had a _'6-pack'_ carburetor system on it. The system consisted of six one barrel carbs that operated in pairs w/ progressive linkage that engaged the front two carbs first, then the middle two, and finally the back two. Once you had all six carbs in operation, you could watch the gas gauge go down towards "E" almost as fast as the speedometer went up. As I recall, premium gas sold for around 19-20¢/gallon. That was good because the car's gas mileage typically ran at +/- 9 miles/gallon when the driver had a lead foot. At best, it got 12-13 miles/gallon when it was treated _very gently_ so that it ran mostly on the front 2 carbs. 😵 My wife dearly loved that Charger. She drove it as _hard and fast_ as she possibly could, much to my dismay at the *_staggering_* gas bills! It was finally traded in '72 as part of the purchase of a Chevrolet Vega GT. That car came w/ the aluminum four cylinder engine and a single two barrel carburetor. The Vega _would not_ light up the rear tires, or anything else for that matter. As it turned out, my wife didn't particularly like that car, but the gas bills improved - *_significantly!_* 😁😁😁
True story, when I was grinding the seats on a set of 360 Chrysler heads, I had an exhaust valve fail at the same place on the stem. I would slide the valve in the guide and slap it against the finished seat a few times, which would leave a witness mark on the valve face and seat showing the contact patch. The third time that exhaust valve bounced off the seat the stem dropped on the table and the valve was now 2 pieces. (This was after the valve had ran in the engine for untold years, was glass beaded and the face ground) Needless to say all those exhaust valves were replaced with new.
Thanks nick loved the video, it was great. Can just barely remember those big dogs ,if you ever got to ride in one you'll remember it. Thanks again from Minnesota...
Nick, you're the American quintessential man that put his life into something he loves and created a huge business. The little talking about everything here makes me feel like you're a patient Dad
A real mystery engine with discoloured front bearing caps and the valve falling off in #5 with no damage to the cylinder or piston and then the oil pan parts and insects. It will be interesting to see the complete rebuild on this engine.
Hey Nick, Another great video. Maybe {years ago} someone tried to turn over the motor with a stuck valve and with all that rust in it, broke the valve off. That's why the broken end of the valve is all rusty. Also someone changed the oil pan and put one on that already had the spun bearing in the bottom of it and didn't notice or care about it. Who knows, just a guess. But the busted valve make sense. - Later
Nick, your critters are what's called "Levitating Texas Grasshopper's", and they are very rare.😀 I think you were right on your first call about the spun bearing; they removed the motor mount bolts raised the engine a little dropped the pan changed it out then buttoned it back up, that's probably why they didn't see it in the pan.😏
Half a bearing may have been dropped into the engine during production and rather than fish it out the worker just grabbed another one from the bin on a Friday afternoon. LOL
If they were about to go on strike that bearing half was probably left out of another engine on purpose and thrown into that one for laughs. Back in '76 at Chevy we had new cars coming in with one upper main half missing just before a strike. You could set your watch by it.
@@erichinkle8522 , So if the engine was upside down when installing the rod caps and the half bearing fell into the cylinder/piston when the engine was flipped back over and started for the first time it would have been above the windage tray and came in contact with the crank and or ends of the connecting rods beaten up a bit then eventually fell into the bottom of the pan where it lived ever since. It's a theory...
Hello Nick & George I watched you with a 327ci Small block Chevy, would love to see you rebuild that engine to a HP one. I have one my self In a 1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe. Love the 327ci please consider rebuilding it on camera. From San Diego California.
I don't mean to keep commenting, but this is such a great video...and some obvious points, for the 'younger students' out there. In my youth, I was a PROLIFIC 'junk yard scrounger'...421's, 428's, 440's, 340's, etc., and often, you'd find engines in this condition. I have seen the 'dropped valve with no damage' before...it comes from the engine already being 'dry' when it got to the junkyard, and over time, someone comes by, runs the numbers, wants the block or heads, only to 'try to turn it over...and it's locked up'...until, it spins a bit, then locks up again. They just broke the valve head off of a brittle stem (or the valve was seized in the guide)...no piston or cylinder damage, but the valve stem broke right near the bottom of the valve guide. Whoever turned this motor over first, recently, broke the valve...but better to break it while hand-turning it, than pouring oil into it and trying to fire-it-up! Also, the best way to 'pre-clean' carbonized, oxidized piston tops still in the block? Put a 1-1/2" wire cup brush (ideally, brass) on a drill, and knock that debris off the piston tops...quick, easy, and if you hit that top cylinder rim and put a few drops of oil on it, makes knocking the pistons out a LOT easier. I'm VERY curious about that 'almost-destroked' TDC piston issue. Looks almost like a 440 you'd see come out of an early 70's D600 truck (8.5-to-1 compression)...the six-pack rods are a curiosity then, unless the trucks and high performance cars ran the same rods. GM called their truck engines (i.e.: 427's) 'Tall Blocks', because of this.
Hi Nick and George what a great working relationship you share together. When you found the rodent hotel in the teardown I was reminded of my 1975 360 CID 2 barrel Dodge Monaco 4DR Sedan favored by rodents who used it as a lunch counter while visiting my garage after looting the garage bags. Preference for chicken breast bones, but were not adverse to legs and thighs. My cat also used to hang out on the right front tire and so the rodents lifespan was usually brief.
Incredible video Nick. I really enjoyed you tearing down this 440 and giving tips along the way. Especially the dropped valve and crunched up rod bearing mystery 👍
Great video Nick! Here's a good way that valve broke, the cylinder was full or nearly full of water sometime and when cranked it hydrolocked and fractured the valve stem, this would also explain the very heavy rust in the cylinder and head. Zero damage to the head or piston top proves that engine was not running when that happened.
I was going to say the same thing, but I also think someone had the oil pan off to see if why the engine wouldn't turn over later (maybe at a junk yard?) and a oil pan from the next car over got put back on with extra smashed bearings in the bottom of it from the other car.
Once upon a tine when I was stripping some 360 heads, I gave the retainers a light tap to free the collets and on every exhaust valve the valve head fell off.
Make sure you note that the valve/rocker cover and "oil pan" didn't have bolts in it so you don't spend a ton of time trying to find them when it goes back together. ;)
Hey Nick , The bugs in this video look to me like common Cricket and Cicadas or also known as June Bugs ! I have built engines for 40 +/= years and the other reason for connecting rods to be discolored is the clearance between two sister rods being inaccurate , creating excessive heat ! I hope this helps you ! I love your show and great content ! Best wishes from Oregon !
All mysteries aside one fact that is not in question, after the refresh it will be one bad ass Mopar big block power plant that will shake the ground on nick's dynamometer when resurrected.
Nick, my 6-pak engine spun two harmonic balancers, you know it spun the outer ring on the rubber ring below it, so I installed an after market one that didn't spin. Makes it real hard to time a running engine when the timing mark has moved, It had a habit of breaking brand new motor mounts so I chained the engine to the frame with a little slack.
Getting older, I keep telescopic magnetic pick-up tools attached to everything! Only thing worse than dropping nuts, bolts, tools, etc, it bending over to pick them up. And sockets roll into the darndest places!
When a dropped socket hits the floor it is always going to land right in the middle under the car where it is hard to reach without crawling under to get it. Never fails!
The only alternative that I can come up with about the valve being in the cylinder without any other damage would be that it had a stuck valve that was cracked and when someone checked to see if the engine was locked up and turn the engine over just a little bit it popped loose into the cylinder that's why it did not have any cylinder head or piston damage
Nick seem to think another valve was bent too. Might been deternating or over revving it might bent both valves. And cracked it. And like you said might have had stuck valve backfire through the carb might have been enough to make It drop a valve. Then lock the motor up. The piston won't have had any speed on still cranking.
Hey Nick, I have found the same thing once before. What had happened is a shade tree mechanic was beatting the valves with a hammer trying to figure out witch valve was stuck. I got the engine a few weeks later and got the story. All the valves had to be replaced including springs. I'm not an engine builder but I've rebuilt a few for my self and got asked to help though friends. I found the same thing as you did. A valve on the piston. 350 Chevy and two pistons were damaged.
Fantastic scene when Nick was showing us the infamous vertical crack on the 440 performance exhaust manifold.... Seen plenty of Mopar 440 cars that suffered the smoking fumes from this leak on their exhaust manifold.... Can this exhaust issue be fixed in the short term , or perhaps Nick must order in a replacement.... Alright Now in this case we shall greatly anticipate watching the next episode of *NICK'S GARAGE...!!!*
Great job as usual Nick, I had a 440 PI gave to me from one of my cousins. I'm preparing to rebuild it. I've only rebuilt a 318 so no guts no glory right. Thanks for all the great videos.
I hope to see the rest of the Chevy 327 teardown, soon. This was a great teardown and confirmed my thoughts on these people who take old vehicles sitting for a long time and they just dump fluids in it and try and start it. Sometimes things don't go right because something is in the motor yes like acorns, sticks and leaves dirt. If I had a car that had been sitting a long time I'd want to take the motor apart and go completely through the car. These people drive me crazy trying to start a car that's been sitting a long time.
Always love watching 👀 Nick work his magic . With the exhaust valve laying in the cylinder with no damage is wild and crazy . Plus all the stuff in the bottom ...lolololol...I think it's from all from the engine sitting so long . Hello Nick and George, Big Wave and Smile to all .
Quick tipoff on the HD/6pk rods in a pre-smog 440 is the lobe on the balancer... usually... unless it's been previously kerfiddled. The initial thoughts about a spun bearing were good ones seeing as how if it's actually gonna spin a bearing, a 440 often will spin #1 or #2 since those bearings are the last in line to get oil.
God, i love these videos. I am not much into hot-rodding, but the heritage and the knowledge of the traditional technology ... What i like is rebuilding and doing the minimum of restoring an engine to factory specs and ... hopefully a little better. A great master will do the minimum, but understand profoundly what to do. God bless these guys and youtube. In the future this knowledge may be gold.
MR. Nick could you please do a video some time explaining the difference between a 440 they used in a car and a 440 used in a RV.....i have a 440 RV block and heads from 71 ...is it worth building and doing something with?
Great video Nick and George. There were definitely a lot a critters living in that car. As for the comments about the factory A/C we are keeping the cost low so we can keep the performance high. So we can all keep our cool lol....Nick let's go with the 6 pack.
Six Pack it will be. Coors or Budweiser ? LOL.
@@nickpanaritis4122 mmm my favourite LOL
@@stephane1052 keeping the cost low ?? another 1/2 % of the total cost , why stop now , go for the gold !
@@nickpanaritis4122 make it a six pac of Dom Perrignon
@@nickpanaritis4122 Miller High Life for me. Nick, whatever you would like. I'm buying.
About that F E marking on the oil cap : FE is Fuller-Emerson the company that manufactured the oil filler caps for Chrysler.
Interesting! Thank you.
Nice , 1st comment in the list. Thanks 👍
I'm glad I didn't post "Full" & "Empty" 🤪😁✌️
I'm glad no one put the obvious... Full and empty... Lol
It's so obviously just not enough detail
sounds like one of the trivia questions from the graveyard carz TV show!
Hi Nick my guess and 2 cents worth is that the oil pan only had 2 bolts because it was off another engine that had spun a bearing. The original was probably either damaged or possibly rusted and leaking. The core/frost plugs were replaced probably due leaking. The engine was sitting a long time and obviously got water intrusion, causing the valve to rust. Someone tried to check if the engine would turn by hand breaking the valve and of course it could not make full rotation after the valve was broken. Years later and critter house gifted you finally opened up the mouse & bug house gem. I expect you will give the core a new lease on life and the owner will be very pleased. Keep up the great videos and bring more of the 70's back to life.
Sounds about right. Lol.
yea that might be it right.. makes sense... yup
Yep rusted valve stuck in valve guide. 41:47 you can see a little dark line in the left side, that is first time, when valve had broken, another scratch in bottom side you can see, that is second time when valve part had sleep on the piston
Yeah there is no way them cricket's could make there way into the oil pan unless that pan came from some where else. Really funny.
I been working on cars for 55 years. You, Nick, are a true gentleman, knowledgeable, calm, no attitude. People in any type of work would do well watching these videos. They show a man that knows his job, and knows how to work.
Positive people are the best boss/coworkers
Ditto!
Oil pump I guess
I take that back not oil pump
I'm a certified master tech with a CA. smog cert and several years of trade school / college in auto repair. Nick is one of the best teachers I've ever had. after decades of trouble shooting & wrenching on cars I find Nicks Garage usefull & educational. Thanks Nick.
He's amazing to listen to and he's filled with automotive knowledge.
I'd love to have his brain!
Were are uin CA, mr moroe
i think what you have is a set of rods from another motor that had spun bearings but the rods were good . this motor probably had bent rods so they used spun bearing rods from another motor
Any chance we could follow that engine through the machine shop? I love seeing old things being brought back to new
I feel like im at the garage just hanging out Nikk is a gentle genius love his matter of fact angle of attack and old school cool Legend !
I grew up in the 80/90’s watching halfway “ok” automotive shows on cable TV.
15 years of watching RUclips and im still blown away by this kind of quality content. I pay for RUclips premium but it’s 10x better than Cable TV and 1/10th the cost.
Thank you Nick and team.
This video is well put together. No loudness, very subtle music in the background. Nick, you're a master craftsman and have the gift of being able to explain in easy terms what you are doing. Tres bien!
Maybe there were two 70 Chargers with two 440s in different states of disassembly. He slapped one back together to sell it. And put it back in the car to pass the savings on to the next guy. There's no way that valve dropped while that motor was running. And that bearing was just left in there by some mechanic that didn't care. Thanks for taking us along on the exploratory.
You rock Nick, you rock heavy.
I laughed so hard when Nick said if he was a critter he would find a 70 challenger to live under the dash 😂😂 too funny!!
You knew it would be a mopar. 😃
He was funny when freaking out on the dropped valve and said "wow I don't know " . It's a strange donk alright
It's for Canada.........we can roll without it
So glad I got to see you and your Kowalski at Carlisle today! Beautiful car in person and I did not even plan to go there this year - glad I did
I'm just happy that Stefan saved the Charger; with Nick's help, of course!
Right on. We have to save as many as we can.
Hi Nick, I work two days a week on maintaining and fixing old (50-ties and 60-ties) Ex Army Landrovers. I'm 68 years old and my best friend is my little Impact (max 260Nm) wrench. I do every nut and bolt with it, otherwise I can't hold my spoon when having dinner at the end of the day😊.
For the havy nuts and bolts, the more heavy impact wrench (400Nm). That keeps me moving😁
Yes Nick, please do a rebuild video of this 440 Magnum engine. Love to see the process and your tips.
I’m an old time mechanic that had a mid-life crisis and went back to school to become a Mechanical Engineer, Designer, and a CADD Operator.
I love the mechanics of how things work.
Keep up the good work Nick. Your an inspiration to all of us.
I can tell that you’re a good person the way you talk about the little critters that made a home in that engine
Critters, valves, and bearings, oh my! What a tear down! Just when you think you have seen it all Nick, Texas sends its best!
Very much enjoy the detective work and parts explanation on this 440
I love watching Nick teardown an engine! Will I ever get sick of it? “I do not know!”
I know one thing. I'm glad I'm a Chevy man and never took a MOPAR engine apart!
'@Ghost of R/T keep watching, you might learn something son.
This is actually a really nice score for the buyer!!! A complete set of OEM 6-pack rods with a matching balancer is worth quite a bit by themselves. But a complete re-buildable matching #'s engine to go with that car, priceless!!!
I've watched other engine tear down videos and there is just something about watching Nick tearing one down that makes it better. I think it must be his experience. "The head gasket should be .020 thick. This one is .040 thick." Then explains that lowers compression and a loss of power.
I'd LOVE to see a rebuild video with Nick doing the rebuild.
What Nick does, which others don't, is pass on little tid-bits of info as he goes along. For instance, when he's prying off the timing chain cover, or another cover, he says to pry it at the bolt hole point so as not to stretch the metal, etc. Others never say little tips like this, but for Nick its just another hint on how to do things correctly.
@@bobkonradi1027
Yep, and how things should be done. That may be it for me. Putting forth the effort to do the job right. Do it right or not at all. And like you said the tidbits and tricks to help keep it that way.
Yes Nick, please do a rebuild video of this 440 Magnum engine. Love to see the process and your tips.
I’m an old time mechanic that had a mid-life crisis and went back to school to become a Mechanical Engineer, Designer, and a CADD Operator.
I love the mechanics of how things work.
Keep up the good work Nick. Your an inspiration to all of us.
I will more than likely never tear down an engine but watching a master like Nick, very entertaining and interesting. What a wealth of knowledge and experience.
Glad you enjoyed it.
I know zero about engines and engine work, but I love watching Nick break down engines. Your knowledge of your trade is the most enjoyable part, for me.
I recall my friend had another friend from shop that was a 70' White RR, Then we saw a Brown 🤎 71' RR on a used car lot. It was a slap stick it still had the Chrome exhaust tips! Good 👍 Luck with that 440 Nick. Best wishes. Miss the 70's cars was every where & cheap!
I give it a shot on why the valve head have fallen.. if you look at the piston, it's really oxydate compared to the others... and the cylinder head is really rusted compare to the other... what I think .. it was the creatures pipi room! Pipi creates alot of amoniac that is corrosive... it attacked the valve stem that was maybe sticking out more then the others... a weakness issue on the stem .. when you tried to turn the engine by hand, the piston hit it and it snapped... or the rust with time snapped it!?... that's my take on it.! Loved that video! 👍
I'm with you on that Dj! My thought was the critter had already dropped his nut shells in there for some time then someone came along and put a pair of jumper cable on it - cranked it and the piston came up to "crushed nut" height and broke the valve off which stopped the crank-over cold turkey before it made one complete revolution.
The ends where the valve snapped are totally rusted. If Nick had snapped the valve off when rotated the crank, the ends would have some amount of non-rusty metal showing. More likely scenario is that somebody tried rotating it by hand in the past and the valve, weakened by either water or mouse urine, snapped.
Creative thinking but not the cause of failure at all. That engines last run cycle left the crank at compression stoke of #7 piston (you can tell by the amount of rust on the bad cylinder wall only half way up as well as the amount of rust on the other walls). That means that it was on exhaust stroke of #5 and also why that valve was broke. When the valve is left wide open it is exposing air to the whole cylinder and dries stuff out resulting in rusted valve stem. When someone tried to turn the engine over it was trying to pull the valve back up into the guide and got stuck from not enough clearancing. I am willing to put money on the guides being knurled. Yes your theory is likely a contributing factor but not the cause. I have seen this happen several times, mostly in coastal areas with high salt content in the air.
The bearing mystery!
I suppose it's possible that the oil pan was ready to be installed, could have been on the floor, next to a workbench where the offending, previously installed bearing was at, precariously at the edge.
An interruption ensues, the mechanic leaves the area and voila, the unwanted bearing slides off the edge of the workbench and into the oil pan.
The mechanic comes back from break, does not look into the pan and assembly continues.
Ya know " stuff" happens!
very likely, it often doesn't take much to break them off if stuck and not running and hand cranked with large bar or via flywheel/flexplate teeth.
I've been working on cars and trucks and Building engines for 45 years and I always seem to learn something from your videos
Those bugs look like mole crickets. GREAT music on this video and a great video too. Tearing an old one down like this is like engine archeology.
Mole crickets like dark moist places. The engine oil probably killed them.
That valve is made from 2 pieces, the head and the stem and they are friction welded or joined together with a similar process. Crevice corrosion set in at the weld and popped the head off while the engine sat so you are correct, the engine never ran with the head loose in the cylinder. Interesting video, thanks Nick!
Total agreement. That cylinder filled with water (obviously!) during the engine's long nap, corroded the two-piece joint, and the continuous valvespring pressure popped it off.
Back starting in the 60's through the 70 I must have refreshed and pumped up 75 -100 engines and a few since those days.. I have never seen the stuff you found in this baby.. Although the bearing could have been dropped and wedged in at the factory to come loose and beat around after.. But other than that.. Damned if I know.. But this was fantastic.. Thanks so much for sharing this..
I’m with Mr. Nick. That valve head was never off when the engine was running. I think it was cracked, and then later when it sat for years as a critter palace, rust jacking popped the valve head off. That looks like a low mileage engine. Not much cylinder ridge, because the piston came out easily. I’m sure Mr. Nick will make it run like a top. Take care.
@ Carl Carl Amos piston came out easily?? FFS he had to belt it out with a 2 lb hammer!
That valve broke off when trying to spin the motor over by hand. After sitting for a long time. Rust and age reared it's head. Lucky it didn't break off while running.
@marclobato9690 It was probably rusted open from sitting for ages, and then when someone turned it over, the valve was now off the nose of the cam lobe, and the valve spring pressure eventually win the battle with the stuck valve and it snapped back closed, snapping it off..... 🤷
I love these engine teardown sessions they're so interesting and cool and I love how you explain everything neck I wish I could work with you one day thank you again for everything you do
You're like a fine Italian restaurant gourmet chef, creating an interesting way of taking apart and reassembly that anyone would enjoy
From West Haven, CT. Hello to everyone. Thank you for this video. Everyone be and stay safe.
Hello there! Thanks for watching in CT, Franklin.
Love the vids. I rebuilt a 66 FE 428 engine that was laying in mud for 40 years in 2021. I found mostly insects and mud in there. A Dallas, Tx location. Engine was in a T-Bird. After 3 months of bench work I got it running. Re-installed and sold the car in December 2022. Car was in a covered barn with a tarp over it. Texas registration said March 1982 on the glass. Rebuilt a 1965 283 from the same outdoor mudhole. It needed machine shop work and was bored 0.030 over to 292 cid. Heads were machined and all new parts including the crank. Had terrible thrust wear. GM code said it was in a C-10 truck. It's on a stand I built and in my workshop for fun. I start it from time to time. My first tear down was a Mopar 383 in 1974. I was 17 and the engine came from my 69 Roadrunner. Needed rings and bearings. I sold that 69 Roadrunner for $900 in 1979. Love your channel. I'm not a mechanic but my shop is fully stocked so I am a weekend warrior. I want to get into the LS world next.
So mopars are opposite side firing order. I couldn't remember for sure, had 73 Charger with a bb 440. Miss that monster! Great vid Brorher...
Classic "Nick's Garage" Episode. First class content, entertaining and enlightening, in a professionally produced package.
Right on
You nailed it Nick, most of the old vehicles can be taken apart with just a handful of wrenches. It just makes things so much easier 👍
I've been told you can tear down and rebuild a Dodge with a butter knife and a tennis ball. Haven't tried it...I don't have any tennis ball handy🤔
So true. This new stuff is a pain in the ass, the older motors come out tear them down in under 3 hours
@@franker1111 you
@@franker1111 Hahaha...yeah but you need 5 years to find parts so I'll take new LOL
Thank you Nick!!! I find myself turning every bolt with you step by step. I’ve never tore down a 440. This was a fun experience. Love your show. Great filming George!
I graduated high school in 1972. Many families, back then, gifted their children with a new car when they turned driving age, or shortly thereafter. My best friend got a 1970 Charger RT, just like this one. My father owned a service station/garage, so I opted for a 1969 Nova from our pull-in lot, a brand new crate 1970 LT-1 (from the dealer) and a 12 bolt posi with 514 gear. Also a Mr. Gasket in-line shifter in my modified m-22 rock-crusher tranny. (Filed off every-other brass tooth on the synchronizer rings). Replaced the camshaft, BEFORE even installing the engine with a Sig Erson 990 SB. .550 lift 318 degree duration with 102 degree overlap. Also installed a 1 degree advance camshaft bushing, an 850 cfm Holley double-pumper, making the vacuum operated secondaries mechanical, by installing a metal screw in the secondary linkage. On the street, he ate my lunch, but at the TRACK, I killed him at our local 1/8 mile track..
Nick even well-seasoned Mechanics like you get head stumpers like this that's life we never stop learning.
Its so great to see these muscle car brought back to life.
Nick! I really think your a blessing to everyone. If people ain't watching your videos; no wonder I see a lot cars just sitting in their storage yards. Trying figure out what wrong with the engine. Accumulating more storage cost; and still trying to figure out what's up with the engine. Mechanics lack of training, and knowledge. Nick! I will everyday to watch your RUclips video at night. My quiet time. Just me and Nick. God blessing Mechanic Master.
Hello Nick & George, wow that was an amazing tear down, 90 thou at top of piston to bottom of head, then part of a bearing and live stock in the sump, my oh my what did Stephane bring you to rebuild/restore Nick! I'm sure it will be better than new when you work your magic though. Cheers for sharing and stay well all and safe all.
Just bought 84 corvette, love your show Nick and his Friends are National treasures
Hello from Holland, the video quality is absolutely stunning! This will be a delight to watch
Thank you very much! We try our best to make the videos easy to watch.
After watching quite a few of Nick’s videos, it’s obvious that he is a passionate teacher of motor building. I bet he’s forgotten more than many people know about engines and racing engines specifically. I’ve learned a lot watching him spin his motor magic.
Another great instructional video, Nick! As I told you in a previous video comment, I'm rebuilding a 440 from a 67' imperial based on all your videos which I've watched & saved from the beginning. I've never rebuilt a motor before. It's the same motor as the one you built for the young man Nicholas, who's putting his in a 67' Belevedere. I've got the motor torn down now, and she's never been opened up before, everything is original, and I've seen no damage. Everything came apart pretty easy thanks to all your instruction & tips!!..and using the right tools (all hand tools). I wore the gardening gloves too!! Now, I'm getting ready to send her out to be hot tanked, checked for micro-cracks and bored out over 30. Thanks Nick, I could have never done any of this without you!!! Blessings to you! You made my dream possible!
Good luck with the build Jay.
@@edwardhasiak7961 Thanks!
Wow what a flashback to my younger years , Dad had a 440 6 pack, Those were the good old days . I bought a 73 challenger and dropped the 440 in it . Dad put a 383 auto in his charger so he could drive to Kings Bay sub base for work . Mostly all I needed was the straight motor mounts and to shorten the driveshaft to match up to his 410 dana 60 rear end posi and I had a bad hot rod for High school. Oh yea we swapped his 410 and installed a 383 rear end in the charger for the higher gear and highway speeds. But I did have to build it first, it just would not be right if I did not put some hop ups on it before installing it .Great video Nick
I had the same thing happen to my 1969 Bonneville in about 1980 Nick! when I pulled the head off it pushed the piston sideways in the block an cracked it. that was a 428 engine and I was heartbroken! I bought another 428 and moved on. thanks for another great video Nick!
Ouch.
Nick - I LOVE your no nonsense approach to engine building and rebuilding. Back in the day I did many rebuilds of late 60's and 70's small blocks and big blocks. Was a landscape guy during the day and summers, working in the shop nights with a master mechanic in winter rebuilding all their engines in trucks and tractors. Minimum 12 hour days (only 1/2 day right?) but learned A LOT. Retired from the insurance biz. LOL, but can still see most every part inside those old engines. Small and big block chevy's and MOPAR. I came to greatly appreciate the the small block 327 and most of all the longevity we could get from the MOPAR 360 Magnums. That is if we used the best rebuild parts available. I see you do the same. Really appreciate your knowledge and wisdom.
Car sat for a long time, the valve stems rusted while open, then someone turned the engine with the valves stuck open. The valve broke when the piston came up, but the engine wasn't running, only got turned.
Bugs look like mole crickets
Very enjoyable and educational. I've owned three 440 magnum cars. I didn't know that the magnum engines came with windage trays from the factory. Thanks as always.
Just discovered nick today in a photo from Carlisle Mopar nationals. Looked up his RUclips. If I could just have a shred of knowledge this man has I’d be a happy man. Well done sir and thank you for the great content!
Thanks for joining us!
"Just like Mike Kowalski."
Love it!!! Saw that 4 times in a row when it came out at the Theatre. "Vanishing Point" 1971
I love when you take the time to break down and show is how its done. Great videos Nick .
Hats off to you and your crew
I'm was a teenager in the muscle car era, there's no way to describe how wealthy I would be rt now if I had kept all the cars owned back then, it would be in the 8 figures easily,specially with the mopars I owned, it's enough to make a man cry,,,,but I was a crazy teenager having fun,,,,,I paid $500 to a woman for a '69 RT Dodge Dart 340 magnum with the X heads that she only uses grocery shopping,,,,she laughed that I paid her that much for a car that roared so loudly,,,,,,,that's just one of many true stories, I won't even mention what I paid an off the wall car salesman for the '70 Roadrunner in 1972,,,, you wouldn't believe that one anyways ! Love your videos Nick, I know every bolt on those yesterday pieces of ART !
Thank you for the tour breakdown of this engine. I enjoyed the show
Great video as usual!! As for bearing in the oil pan, I found a connecting rod bearing in the oil pan of a 360 I rebuilt. All the bearings were in place, no damage. Same mystery Nick
Nick's Garage: FWIW, I owned a '69 Charger RT w/ the 440 engine. It had a _'6-pack'_ carburetor system on it. The system consisted of six one barrel carbs that operated in pairs w/ progressive linkage that engaged the front two carbs first, then the middle two, and finally the back two. Once you had all six carbs in operation, you could watch the gas gauge go down towards "E" almost as fast as the speedometer went up. As I recall, premium gas sold for around 19-20¢/gallon. That was good because the car's gas mileage typically ran at +/- 9 miles/gallon when the driver had a lead foot. At best, it got 12-13 miles/gallon when it was treated _very gently_ so that it ran mostly on the front 2 carbs. 😵
My wife dearly loved that Charger. She drove it as _hard and fast_ as she possibly could, much to my dismay at the *_staggering_* gas bills! It was finally traded in '72 as part of the purchase of a Chevrolet Vega GT. That car came w/ the aluminum four cylinder engine and a single two barrel carburetor. The Vega _would not_ light up the rear tires, or anything else for that matter. As it turned out, my wife didn't particularly like that car, but the gas bills improved - *_significantly!_* 😁😁😁
NICK REMINDS ME OF MY AUTO MECHANIC INSTRUCTOR IN HIGH SCHOOL.
100% love the Mopar and classic car content but this soundtrack is making my sideburns grow!👍😎👍
True story, when I was grinding the seats on a set of 360 Chrysler heads, I had an exhaust valve fail at the same place on the stem. I would slide the valve in the guide and slap it against the finished seat a few times, which would leave a witness mark on the valve face and seat showing the contact patch. The third time that exhaust valve bounced off the seat the stem dropped on the table and the valve was now 2 pieces. (This was after the valve had ran in the engine for untold years, was glass beaded and the face ground) Needless to say all those exhaust valves were replaced with new.
That’s a great piece of advice about where to pry off an oil pan. I never thought about it, but it makes perfect sense. Nick has so much to teach.
Thanks nick loved the video, it was great. Can just barely remember those big dogs ,if you ever got to ride in one you'll remember it.
Thanks again from Minnesota...
Nick, you're the American quintessential man that put his life into something he loves and created a huge business.
The little talking about everything here makes me feel like you're a patient Dad
A real mystery engine with discoloured front bearing caps and the valve falling off in #5 with no damage to the cylinder or piston and then the oil pan parts and insects. It will be interesting to see the complete rebuild on this engine.
Hey Nick, Another great video. Maybe {years ago} someone tried to turn over the motor with a stuck valve and with all that rust in it, broke the valve off. That's why the broken end of the valve is all rusty. Also someone changed the oil pan and put one on that already had the spun bearing in the bottom of it and didn't notice or care about it. Who knows, just a guess. But the busted valve make sense. - Later
As always. Love these videos. , and like an old friend nic is always welcome in our home for family car night
Nick, your critters are what's called "Levitating Texas Grasshopper's", and they are very rare.😀 I think you were right on your first call about the spun bearing; they removed the motor mount bolts raised the engine a little dropped the pan changed it out then buttoned it back up, that's probably why they didn't see it in the pan.😏
If it spun a bearing there would be damage on the crank and rod. Nick said they both looked good.
Some smart ass put the bearing in the oil pan during assembly in 1968-69. And why are the heads painted green?
Half a bearing may have been dropped into the engine during production and rather than fish it out the worker just grabbed another one from the bin on a Friday afternoon. LOL
My thought as well...production issue
How did it get bent
If they were about to go on strike that bearing half was probably left out of another engine on purpose and thrown into that one for laughs. Back in '76 at Chevy we had new cars coming in with one upper main half missing just before a strike. You could set your watch by it.
@@erichinkle8522 , So if the engine was upside down when installing the rod caps and the half bearing fell into the cylinder/piston when the engine was flipped back over and started for the first time it would have been above the windage tray and came in contact with the crank and or ends of the connecting rods beaten up a bit then eventually fell into the bottom of the pan where it lived ever since.
It's a theory...
My dad always said to buy a vehicle made on a Wednesday 🤣
Hello Nick & George I watched you with a 327ci Small block Chevy, would love to see you rebuild that engine to a HP one. I have one my self
In a 1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe. Love the 327ci please consider rebuilding it on camera. From San Diego California.
I feel like I actually learn things when I watch your videos Nick. Great video.
I don't mean to keep commenting, but this is such a great video...and some obvious points, for the 'younger students' out there. In my youth, I was a PROLIFIC 'junk yard scrounger'...421's, 428's, 440's, 340's, etc., and often, you'd find engines in this condition. I have seen the 'dropped valve with no damage' before...it comes from the engine already being 'dry' when it got to the junkyard, and over time, someone comes by, runs the numbers, wants the block or heads, only to 'try to turn it over...and it's locked up'...until, it spins a bit, then locks up again. They just broke the valve head off of a brittle stem (or the valve was seized in the guide)...no piston or cylinder damage, but the valve stem broke right near the bottom of the valve guide. Whoever turned this motor over first, recently, broke the valve...but better to break it while hand-turning it, than pouring oil into it and trying to fire-it-up!
Also, the best way to 'pre-clean' carbonized, oxidized piston tops still in the block? Put a 1-1/2" wire cup brush (ideally, brass) on a drill, and knock that debris off the piston tops...quick, easy, and if you hit that top cylinder rim and put a few drops of oil on it, makes knocking the pistons out a LOT easier.
I'm VERY curious about that 'almost-destroked' TDC piston issue. Looks almost like a 440 you'd see come out of an early 70's D600 truck (8.5-to-1 compression)...the six-pack rods are a curiosity then, unless the trucks and high performance cars ran the same rods. GM called their truck engines (i.e.: 427's) 'Tall Blocks', because of this.
Nick, Nice teardown! You're the right man to debug that 440! Thanks for another great video!
Hi Nick and George what a great working relationship you share together. When you found the rodent hotel in the teardown I was reminded of my 1975 360 CID 2 barrel Dodge Monaco 4DR Sedan favored by rodents who used it as a lunch counter while visiting my garage after looting the garage bags. Preference for chicken breast bones, but were not adverse to legs and thighs. My cat also used to hang out on the right front tire and so the rodents lifespan was usually brief.
Incredible video Nick. I really enjoyed you tearing down this 440 and giving tips along the way. Especially the dropped valve and crunched up rod bearing mystery 👍
Great video Nick!
Here's a good way that valve broke, the cylinder was full or nearly full of water sometime and when cranked it hydrolocked and fractured the valve stem, this would also explain the very heavy rust in the cylinder and head.
Zero damage to the head or piston top proves that engine was not running when that happened.
I was going to say the same thing, but I also think someone had the oil pan off to see if why the engine wouldn't turn over later (maybe at a junk yard?) and a oil pan from the next car over got put back on with extra smashed bearings in the bottom of it from the other car.
Once upon a tine when I was stripping some 360 heads, I gave the retainers a light tap to free the collets and on every exhaust valve the valve head fell off.
I learn a great deal from these disassembly videos. Thanks Nick. Great work also George.
Make sure you note that the valve/rocker cover and "oil pan" didn't have bolts in it so you don't spend a ton of time trying to find them when it goes back together. ;)
🔧
Hey Nick ,
The bugs in this video look to me like common Cricket and Cicadas or also known as June Bugs ! I have built engines for 40 +/= years and the other reason for connecting rods to be discolored is the clearance between two sister rods being inaccurate , creating excessive heat ! I hope this helps you ! I love your show and great content ! Best wishes from Oregon !
All mysteries aside one fact that is not in question, after the refresh it will be one bad ass Mopar big block power plant that will shake the ground on nick's dynamometer when resurrected.
Nick, love your show, from one Nick to another, please keep them coming my friend! Thank you, Nick Donvito in NY.
Nick, my 6-pak engine spun two harmonic balancers, you know it spun the outer ring on the rubber ring below it, so I installed an after market one that didn't spin. Makes it real hard to time a running engine when the timing mark has moved, It had a habit of breaking brand new motor mounts so I chained the engine to the frame with a little slack.
The tear down videos and rebuilds are my favorite
Getting older, I keep telescopic magnetic pick-up tools attached to everything! Only thing worse than dropping nuts, bolts, tools, etc, it bending over to pick them up. And sockets roll into the darndest places!
When a dropped socket hits the floor it is always going to land right in the middle under the car where it is hard to reach without crawling under to get it. Never fails!
@@ecleveland1 so true man.
I really enjoy this type video. An original engine reveals its secrets.
That looks so much like Betsy’s engine God I can’t wait to get there see you soon boys!
The only alternative that I can come up with about the valve being in the cylinder without any other damage would be that it had a stuck valve that was cracked and when someone checked to see if the engine was locked up and turn the engine over just a little bit it popped loose into the cylinder that's why it did not have any cylinder head or piston damage
That’s what I was thinking
Nick seem to think another valve was bent too. Might been deternating or over revving it might bent both valves. And cracked it. And like you said might have had stuck valve backfire through the carb might have been enough to make It drop a valve. Then lock the motor up. The piston won't have had any speed on still cranking.
These engine tear down videos are my favorite. Thanks, Nick!
Glad you like them!
Hey Nick, I have found the same thing once before. What had happened is a shade tree mechanic was beatting the valves with a hammer trying to figure out witch valve was stuck. I got the engine a few weeks later and got the story. All the valves had to be replaced including springs. I'm not an engine builder but I've rebuilt a few for my self and got asked to help though friends. I found the same thing as you did. A valve on the piston. 350 Chevy and two pistons were damaged.
Fantastic scene when Nick was showing us the infamous vertical crack on the 440 performance exhaust manifold.... Seen plenty of Mopar 440 cars that suffered the smoking fumes from this leak on their exhaust manifold.... Can this exhaust issue be fixed in the short term , or perhaps Nick must order in a replacement.... Alright Now in this case we shall greatly anticipate watching the next episode of *NICK'S GARAGE...!!!*
Great job as usual Nick, I had a 440 PI gave to me from one of my cousins. I'm preparing to rebuild it. I've only rebuilt a 318 so no guts no glory right. Thanks for all the great videos.
I hope to see the rest of the Chevy 327 teardown, soon. This was a great teardown and confirmed my thoughts on these people who take old vehicles sitting for a long time and they just dump fluids in it and try and start it. Sometimes things don't go right because something is in the motor yes like acorns, sticks and leaves dirt. If I had a car that had been sitting a long time I'd want to take the motor apart and go completely through the car. These people drive me crazy trying to start a car that's been sitting a long time.
yeah, at minimum clean everything check/replace bearings and 100% replace all valve springs! gaskets, seals and more.
Always love watching 👀 Nick work his magic . With the exhaust valve laying in the cylinder with no damage is wild and crazy . Plus all the stuff in the bottom ...lolololol...I think it's from all from the engine sitting so long . Hello Nick and George, Big Wave and Smile to all .
Nick I love your attitude about the critters. 🐁 Good Man!
You Too George!
All creatures great and small.
Are those critters factored in when calculating the horse power. They are big enough.🐴🦊
Just found this guy and I’m blown away with the knowledge this guy has.
Welcome to the channel!
Great show as always! I could watch shows like this everyday. Well done again guys love the show
Quick tipoff on the HD/6pk rods in a pre-smog 440 is the lobe on the balancer... usually... unless it's been previously kerfiddled. The initial thoughts about a spun bearing were good ones seeing as how if it's actually gonna spin a bearing, a 440 often will spin #1 or #2 since those bearings are the last in line to get oil.
Good morning Nick. Best way to start my Tuesday morning. Live from Adelaide Australia 6:50am
Morning! Thanks for starting your day with us.
God, i love these videos. I am not much into hot-rodding, but the heritage and the knowledge of the traditional technology ... What i like is rebuilding and doing the minimum of restoring an engine to factory specs and ... hopefully a little better. A great master will do the minimum, but understand profoundly what to do. God bless these guys and youtube. In the future this knowledge may be gold.
MR. Nick could you please do a video some time explaining the difference between a 440 they used in a car and a 440 used in a RV.....i have a 440 RV block and heads from 71 ...is it worth building and doing something with?