Nice to see you back after the big tornado... Hope the temporary repairs to the corner of your tobacco barn are holding up while you can get a full time fix sorted out.
Another fix sorted out without breaking the bank. Glad to see you fixing stuff instead of replacing the entire carb. I know an upgrade would have been nice but better to wait for the repower project. Hope you are well, sir. - TZ
Success….video reminded me in my 20s working in a shop rebuilding a carb, basically done…older prankster worker comes over with a part in hand and says “where does this go?”, he had come earlier and chatted, grabbed the part off the bench….had to open it back up and install…lesson learned…lol
We still have several carbureted motors. I bough an ultra sound cleaner big enough to put a regular carb in disassembled. Best money I ever spent. It cleans the old varnish off easily. We also run fuel stabilizers year round in the units like your grain truck that get run infrequently. I like "Sea foam" the best. My Dad ran Dodge trucks for years. He did not like diesel engines while gas was cheap (20 cents a gallon in 1970). That 361 with a two barrel carb. was rated at 175 HP at 4000 RPM for truck applications. The 413 truck engine with a four barrel and dual exhaust was only rated at 225 at 4000 rpm in the heavy trucks. These motors ran a completely different cam, valves and pistons than the car motors. They where made to be very durable. Guys found out installing a car built motor would not last very long in the heavy trucks. I do mean weeks when in heavy use. They usually would burn a hole in the top of the pistons when in the trucks.
@@bcbloc02 It is the duty cycle. That 318 will not last long running wide open like you do the 361 and 413s when in heavy loaded trucks. The 361 where actually better at holding together. You could run them up to 4000 and they would live. The 413 would not last long over 3200-3500. We where running them in C800s with 5 & 4 transmissions. The trucks weighed 18-19K empty and we usually hauled 19-20 ton. So you where right at 55-60K. Lots of shifting. LOL
@@JDseller1 My 318-3 came out of a D500 grain truck that was very similar to my D600. It has the stellite sodium filled valves, hard seats, forged crank and floating wrist pins for industrial service. I was at the ag museum in Kearney Nebraska and they had one of these that ran an irrigation pump supposedly over 100,000 hours. The industrial poly318s are much more heavy duty than a regular 318. I don't have a tach but that 361 is humming pretty good at 65-70mph. 🙂
@@bcbloc02 You 318 has all the goodies of the HD motors. I looked up the HP in my dodge manual and the 361s and 413 topped out at 225 HP and that was a 413-4. My book does not show the 318s in it. I am wondering it the torque curve on the 361 and 413 is flatter than your 318?? Then add in lower rated RPM would make lower HPs. I know when we got the first 238 Detroit it would walk all over our gas motors. It was only around 185 net HP.
@@JDseller1 I did some internet digging and dound a 1969 truck sales manual that gave the following 318-3 202hp@4000rpm 322ft-lb@2800rpm: 361-2 186hp@4000rpm 300ft-lb@2400rpm: 361-3 200hp@4000rpm 316ft-lb@2200rpm: 361-4 207hp@4000rpm 335ft-lb@2400rpm:413-2 220hp@3600rpm 385ft-lb@2200rpm. I believe the different powers listed for the 361's must all be the result mostly of ignition timing as they are all the same compression and I believe use the same heads, and manifolds. It looks like to me they added a higher heat feature (chrome rings) to each higher -series and then turned the wick up. I will have to consult the parts book to see if they had different cams but I kind of expect not.
Stains in bottom of float bowls are rust stains from the gas tanks, lines and gas stations. A 1984 corvette fuel filter is the cure directly before the fuel pump.. then free flow the fuel line into a container with 15 seconds of cranking 3 times. This flushes sediment out of the pump.
Glad nothing was set on fire this time haha just messin. Really enjoying the little bit longer videos. I guess you got some better internet hooked up now. Keep the videos em coming love the content!
Thanks Brian. Seems like you've been having to do the automotive equivalent of Yak Shaving "an apparently useless activity which, by allowing you to overcome intermediate difficulties, allows you to solve a larger problem."
@@65cj55 Face it. You were trying to sound cool like you knew something about mechanics in the 70's and you stepped on your lip. The 70's were horrible in the automotive world. Some engines went from 400+ hp down to 140. Thanks to the government. They also put hideous bumpers on our cars that looked more like porches. And the price of gas quadrupled. Our engines were so lean it would take an hour to warm up to defrost your windshield. Smog pumps, EGR valves, totally gutless engines ------ where is that good part you were referring to? Oh yeah, and don't forget gas caps on the passenger side?????? AND those damned metric bolts and metric tire sizes!!!!
Thanks for sharing. I have never been inside one of those carbs before. Truck sounds like its running good. You are recording in 1080p to incase you didn't know it.
A lot like the older fire trucks we ran. Fords with 534s, 477s or 429s, Super heavy duty engines but gutless when you were pulling heavy trucks with 1500-2000 gallons of water plus the pump and all the gear..
Hi Brian, Viewer fan here! Glad to be viewing here at home. Morning coffee and cookies. Give shop boss a pet and scratch for me, please! Balls and clippeez??😂 watched another channel the guy fix up an tractor. Think he wants to challenge your forklift to the 1/4 mile! Think all he going to do is choke on your tire smoke! 😂😂😂
Most instructions don't explain setting the metering rods, though a Carter BBD service manual does (late-1970's). Screwing the small hex bolt cw richens the mixture (pulls metering rods up, LH thread), and ccw leans it. Nominal rebuild setting is 0.035" gap (aft side, must remove metering rods w/ step-up piston to adjust on bench). Some claim you need slightly richer for today's 10% ethanol. This is for O/F while driving. The idle mixture screws adjust the idle O/F (nominally 2 turns out). Best to have an O2 sensor & display to monitor while driving (only $30 narrow-band, $95 wideband today Amazon), unless old-school "judge spark plugs". The adjustment shown here "phases" the lift tabs to throttle plate (want horizontal as stated). Also adjust the accel pump (other shaft screw) so the top of the plunger shaft is 0.5" below top of bowl with normal idle speed screw 2 turns (disable fast idle). BBD's in 1980's Jeeps have additional electric meter rods on aft side. Don't remove those (fans term "nutter"), rather clean rust debris to free them (falls in from air tube). Above is for later "solid fuel" BBD (1970's). The earlier "air bleed" type (thru 1960's) have different metering rods. The slant-six BBD (Super Six, late 1970's) has thicker metering rods (like smaller jets), which is the main (only?) difference. But, 318 metering rods might be perfect for today's gas, and feds are considering allowing 20% ethanol in near future. Running a 1970's BBD on my 1965 Dart 273 for a while, though plan later Holley TBI, like on my 1965 Chrysler 383. The 383 had a 2 bbl Bendix Stromberg WWC (a bit fussy, esp cold). I didn't know they used Carter BBD on big-blocks in 1970's.
@@bcbloc02 Surprises me since lower-displacement engines of a series are higher-rev'ing so a better fit for sedans, such as the 273 in my 1969 Dodge Dart. Indeed, among Mopar small blocks the 340 was the performance engine, not the larger 360, though a 360 (or 5.9L Magnum version) is better today for racing since more aftermarket parts available. For the same reason, 2 bbl carburetors were used in trucks and family sedans since low-end torque was more appreciated than higher max HP at screaming rpm's which a better-breathing 4 bbl gives.
@@williamgrissom9022 Well they needed the engines to live the 50K mile warranty so the 361 had the thickest strongest block and putting a 2bbl on it kept it under 200hp so it could make it the 50K. A 400hp 440 would rarely ever have made it 5k much less 50 since the truck engines basically put out whatever they can make all day long since 200hp can barely drag 30000lbs along a flat road with the wind of a parachute. I would say when I am driving my big truck engines stay at WOT 90% of the time.
Brian, I can't believe you didn't rebuild this on a stump in the middle of a field. I recall one video of you doing just that and I thought to myself that I'd lose half that stuff in a white room with smooth walls and floor.
The b blocks had short stroke big bore made lots of torque could be a good for a while till that 8.3 at 350hp would make one hell of a single axle can’t wait to see what that would do on dyno hill
I have a strange carb experience. 1985 Dodge 1 ton with a 360 4 barrel. Purchased in 2006 and used it until it wouldn't start around 2019. Carb wasn't getting fuel. Changed the fuel pump. No joy. Finally took the top off of it. Found the clip for the float needle was MIA! Purchased a kit for the clip. Yes, I used a few gaskets. Put it back together and it ran. Question is, why did it run and then stop running?
Always good to see an older carb getting a new make over. Back in Ohio in 2006, I picked up a clean D100 with slant 6 and still wish I had. You have any slant 6's in your fleet? Sad news, but wife has has decided after our Thurs oncology appointment to not go through any more treatments. Hospice will be on board starting this Monday to take over. Have a super wk end. Bear
Well that sucks. I still pray for the best. No i don't have any slant 6 stuff. My firewood hauler had a slant 6 in it but it spun a rod and that is when I bought it and put the poly 318 and trans out of the d500 in it.
Thanks for the knowledge, sir, my 73D 600 has a 361-3 with the same carb I just had it rebuilt. It was leaking all over the place the plate that it mounts to with the two butterfly valves. How do you know if that things working mate mine runs great up until about half throttle then sputters and farts I was thinking maybe the butterfly under the Carburetor it’s not opening? Do you seem to be a knowledgeable guy? What do you think, sir?
that is the governor It should limit crank revs to about 4000rpm I believe. mine was gutted before I got the truck so it does not do anything except serve as a spacer. In order to gut it just take it off and use a screwdriver to remove the butterflies. if working properly it should run smooth against the governor just not be making anymore power. Sputtering and misfiring is either an ignition issue or it is running out of fuel.
@@bcbloc02 thanks for the input, sir. My butterflies are about halfway and when you try and move them by hand, there’s lotta resistance. I’m gonna have to look into them a little deeper. Thank you sir.
Is there any chance you have the part number for a engine oil filter? Can’t find one anywhere old filter can’t read the number drop in style one comes up with the same dimensions they’re calling it a fuel filter. Thanks.
@@bcbloc02 very good sir thank you also on the carburetor I took those two butterflies off that didn’t make a difference and I started messing around and adjusted the two screws with the springs on them outward and it made a big difference, so I’m guessing they either let more fuel or air in a revs up, higher now without sputtering it seems like I got them cranked almost all the way out so it seems to me the air fuel mixture is just not quite right. Thank you sir.
They are work horses, not race horses. People forgot that, it's why so many died 'in harness.' Once people learn to adjust their driving, the potential for lasting forever is there. There's a lot of those old farm trucks around here, the only time you see them out is during harvest. You learn to crest each hill slowly, ready to hit the brakes, because there might be one just over that hill. They move. Not fast. Most of the time they can stop, but sometimes you have to adjust for that. Let them get out, join the parade that's going to grow behind them. Impatience, around here, will get you in trouble during harvest.
Yep it will get there, you just might spend 20 minutes pulling a hill in 2nd or 3rd gear but eventually the job is done. :-) The good thing about the low power is you don't get going very fast so the brakes work better. lol
Brain pick time. Brian, anything overly complicated about working on Hydro-static units? I realize they will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Sorry, I forgot about your video.
Not really just a BUNCH of parts if you tear down to the component level so you need a big space to lay everything out and keep it together so all parts go back in the holes they came out of.
The trouble with being a carburetor magician is that you have to be old enough to know what a carburetor is. 😁
Thanks
John
Nice to see you back after the big tornado... Hope the temporary repairs to the corner of your tobacco barn are holding up while you can get a full time fix sorted out.
So far it is holding.
Another fix sorted out without breaking the bank. Glad to see you fixing stuff instead of replacing the entire carb. I know an upgrade would have been nice but better to wait for the repower project. Hope you are well, sir. - TZ
…and here I thought that you had sworn off anything with a carburetor or spark plugs! Thanks for taking us along.
Can't beat those old Dodges. Still running after decades....
3:00 yep, on my bbd for my 79 ramcharger both surfaces were just cast, no machining.
Success….video reminded me in my 20s working in a shop rebuilding a carb, basically done…older prankster worker comes over with a part in hand and says “where does this go?”, he had come earlier and chatted, grabbed the part off the bench….had to open it back up and install…lesson learned…lol
I usually just keep the extra bits for later. LOL
We still have several carbureted motors. I bough an ultra sound cleaner big enough to put a regular carb in disassembled. Best money I ever spent. It cleans the old varnish off easily. We also run fuel stabilizers year round in the units like your grain truck that get run infrequently. I like "Sea foam" the best.
My Dad ran Dodge trucks for years. He did not like diesel engines while gas was cheap (20 cents a gallon in 1970). That 361 with a two barrel carb. was rated at 175 HP at 4000 RPM for truck applications. The 413 truck engine with a four barrel and dual exhaust was only rated at 225 at 4000 rpm in the heavy trucks. These motors ran a completely different cam, valves and pistons than the car motors. They where made to be very durable. Guys found out installing a car built motor would not last very long in the heavy trucks. I do mean weeks when in heavy use. They usually would burn a hole in the top of the pistons when in the trucks.
Surprised its not more than 175. My 67 318 out of the D500 is 202hp it says so right on the valve cover. :-)
@@bcbloc02 It is the duty cycle. That 318 will not last long running wide open like you do the 361 and 413s when in heavy loaded trucks. The 361 where actually better at holding together. You could run them up to 4000 and they would live. The 413 would not last long over 3200-3500. We where running them in C800s with 5 & 4 transmissions. The trucks weighed 18-19K empty and we usually hauled 19-20 ton. So you where right at 55-60K. Lots of shifting. LOL
@@JDseller1 My 318-3 came out of a D500 grain truck that was very similar to my D600. It has the stellite sodium filled valves, hard seats, forged crank and floating wrist pins for industrial service. I was at the ag museum in Kearney Nebraska and they had one of these that ran an irrigation pump supposedly over 100,000 hours. The industrial poly318s are much more heavy duty than a regular 318. I don't have a tach but that 361 is humming pretty good at 65-70mph. 🙂
@@bcbloc02 You 318 has all the goodies of the HD motors. I looked up the HP in my dodge manual and the 361s and 413 topped out at 225 HP and that was a 413-4. My book does not show the 318s in it. I am wondering it the torque curve on the 361 and 413 is flatter than your 318?? Then add in lower rated RPM would make lower HPs. I know when we got the first 238 Detroit it would walk all over our gas motors. It was only around 185 net HP.
@@JDseller1 I did some internet digging and dound a 1969 truck sales manual that gave the following 318-3 202hp@4000rpm 322ft-lb@2800rpm: 361-2 186hp@4000rpm 300ft-lb@2400rpm: 361-3 200hp@4000rpm 316ft-lb@2200rpm: 361-4 207hp@4000rpm 335ft-lb@2400rpm:413-2 220hp@3600rpm 385ft-lb@2200rpm. I believe the different powers listed for the 361's must all be the result mostly of ignition timing as they are all the same compression and I believe use the same heads, and manifolds. It looks like to me they added a higher heat feature (chrome rings) to each higher -series and then turned the wick up. I will have to consult the parts book to see if they had different cams but I kind of expect not.
Stains in bottom of float bowls are rust stains from the gas tanks, lines and gas stations. A 1984 corvette fuel filter is the cure directly before the fuel pump.. then free flow the fuel line into a container with 15 seconds of cranking 3 times. This flushes sediment out of the pump.
There is a big inline fuel filter before the carb.
Sounds great Brian. Thanks
"Don't be that guy", words to live by. Engine idles great, always enjoy your assembly work.Thanks for the look.
Glad nothing was set on fire this time haha just messin.
Really enjoying the little bit longer videos. I guess you got some better internet hooked up now. Keep the videos em coming love the content!
Fire makes a great cleaner!
@@bcbloc02 🤣🤣 very true
glad to see you have found 5 square inches to work.
Always a battle!
Thanks Brian. Seems like you've been having to do the automotive equivalent of Yak Shaving "an apparently useless activity which, by allowing you to overcome intermediate difficulties, allows you to solve a larger problem."
Awesome video Brian!!!!! Take care, Much respect!!!
Thanks 👍
Yes the quality of your Video is much more vivid
The 70's were the best, V8's in everything and fuel was affordable.
Must have lived in a different 70's than the rest of us....
@@ShainAndrews How could i do that ?
Probably referring to the gas crisis when fuel was NOT cheap.
@@bcbloc02 Maybe, but not where i live.
@@65cj55 Face it. You were trying to sound cool like you knew something about mechanics in the 70's and you stepped on your lip. The 70's were horrible in the automotive world. Some engines went from 400+ hp down to 140. Thanks to the government. They also put hideous bumpers on our cars that looked more like porches. And the price of gas quadrupled. Our engines were so lean it would take an hour to warm up to defrost your windshield. Smog pumps, EGR valves, totally gutless engines ------ where is that good part you were referring to? Oh yeah, and don't forget gas caps on the passenger side?????? AND those damned metric bolts and metric tire sizes!!!!
Brings back memories! Thanks my friend good video 😁 ol truck purrs like a kitten 🐱
Doesn't your lathe have one of them or does it have a thermo-quad?
Twiddle/Fiddle that 60's-70's NA engines will run ,great stuff thanks.
Another Brian Block job well done good work!
Thanks for sharing. I have never been inside one of those carbs before. Truck sounds like its running good. You are recording in 1080p to incase you didn't know it.
very good job brian
A lot like the older fire trucks we ran. Fords with 534s, 477s or 429s, Super heavy duty engines but gutless when you were pulling heavy trucks with 1500-2000 gallons of water plus the pump and all the gear..
👍👍 right on feller 👊
Thanks for the video mate 👍🇦🇺
Hi Brian, Viewer fan here! Glad to be viewing here at home. Morning coffee and cookies. Give shop boss a pet and scratch for me, please! Balls and clippeez??😂 watched another channel the guy fix up an tractor. Think he wants to challenge your forklift to the 1/4 mile! Think all he going to do is choke on your tire smoke! 😂😂😂
Most instructions don't explain setting the metering rods, though a Carter BBD service manual does (late-1970's). Screwing the small hex bolt cw richens the mixture (pulls metering rods up, LH thread), and ccw leans it. Nominal rebuild setting is 0.035" gap (aft side, must remove metering rods w/ step-up piston to adjust on bench). Some claim you need slightly richer for today's 10% ethanol. This is for O/F while driving. The idle mixture screws adjust the idle O/F (nominally 2 turns out). Best to have an O2 sensor & display to monitor while driving (only $30 narrow-band, $95 wideband today Amazon), unless old-school "judge spark plugs". The adjustment shown here "phases" the lift tabs to throttle plate (want horizontal as stated). Also adjust the accel pump (other shaft screw) so the top of the plunger shaft is 0.5" below top of bowl with normal idle speed screw 2 turns (disable fast idle).
BBD's in 1980's Jeeps have additional electric meter rods on aft side. Don't remove those (fans term "nutter"), rather clean rust debris to free them (falls in from air tube). Above is for later "solid fuel" BBD (1970's). The earlier "air bleed" type (thru 1960's) have different metering rods. The slant-six BBD (Super Six, late 1970's) has thicker metering rods (like smaller jets), which is the main (only?) difference. But, 318 metering rods might be perfect for today's gas, and feds are considering allowing 20% ethanol in near future. Running a 1970's BBD on my 1965 Dart 273 for a while, though plan later Holley TBI, like on my 1965 Chrysler 383. The 383 had a 2 bbl Bendix Stromberg WWC (a bit fussy, esp cold). I didn't know they used Carter BBD on big-blocks in 1970's.
Most people don’t know the 361 was the standard engine for the big trucks till they quit making trucks in 77
@@bcbloc02 Surprises me since lower-displacement engines of a series are higher-rev'ing so a better fit for sedans, such as the 273 in my 1969 Dodge Dart. Indeed, among Mopar small blocks the 340 was the performance engine, not the larger 360, though a 360 (or 5.9L Magnum version) is better today for racing since more aftermarket parts available. For the same reason, 2 bbl carburetors were used in trucks and family sedans since low-end torque was more appreciated than higher max HP at screaming rpm's which a better-breathing 4 bbl gives.
@@williamgrissom9022 Well they needed the engines to live the 50K mile warranty so the 361 had the thickest strongest block and putting a 2bbl on it kept it under 200hp so it could make it the 50K. A 400hp 440 would rarely ever have made it 5k much less 50 since the truck engines basically put out whatever they can make all day long since 200hp can barely drag 30000lbs along a flat road with the wind of a parachute. I would say when I am driving my big truck engines stay at WOT 90% of the time.
Brian, I can't believe you didn't rebuild this on a stump in the middle of a field. I recall one video of you doing just that and I thought to myself that I'd lose half that stuff in a white room with smooth walls and floor.
i can if I have to but I was already in the shop so... :-)
The b blocks had short stroke big bore made lots of torque could be a good for a while till that 8.3 at 350hp would make one hell of a single axle can’t wait to see what that would do on dyno hill
Thanks for sharing
You bet!
I'm just glad Briggs didn't have them on mowers. GBWYall
Sure is a quiet engine.
How is Bailey??
Old and worn out but he is still going. He doesn't get around very well anymore his arthritis is bad.
@@bcbloc02 Thanks for letting me know.
I am really surprised you were able to find and get the rebuild kit!
Showed up 2 days after I ordered it!
I have a strange carb experience.
1985 Dodge 1 ton with a 360 4 barrel. Purchased in 2006 and used it until it wouldn't start around 2019. Carb wasn't getting fuel. Changed the fuel pump. No joy. Finally took the top off of it. Found the clip for the float needle was MIA! Purchased a kit for the clip. Yes, I used a few gaskets. Put it back together and it ran.
Question is, why did it run and then stop running?
It must have gotten the needle jammed where it could not open.
One last adjustment...The radio !
No excuse for removing those tags now .. take a picture of it with your smart phone and go shopping.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
I tell people all the time to take a picture of their serial numbers and save them on their phone but pretty much nobody listens to that advice.
Hiya Brian
Exhaust leaks make sound like it has a cam ???
Always good to see an older carb getting a new make over. Back in Ohio in 2006, I picked up a clean D100 with slant 6 and still wish I had. You have any slant 6's in your fleet? Sad news, but wife has has decided after our Thurs oncology appointment to not go through any more treatments. Hospice will be on board starting this Monday to take over. Have a super wk end. Bear
Well that sucks. I still pray for the best. No i don't have any slant 6 stuff. My firewood hauler had a slant 6 in it but it spun a rod and that is when I bought it and put the poly 318 and trans out of the d500 in it.
Thanks for the knowledge, sir, my 73D 600 has a 361-3 with the same carb I just had it rebuilt. It was leaking all over the place the plate that it mounts to with the two butterfly valves. How do you know if that things working mate mine runs great up until about half throttle then sputters and farts I was thinking maybe the butterfly under the Carburetor it’s not opening? Do you seem to be a knowledgeable guy? What do you think, sir?
that is the governor It should limit crank revs to about 4000rpm I believe. mine was gutted before I got the truck so it does not do anything except serve as a spacer. In order to gut it just take it off and use a screwdriver to remove the butterflies. if working properly it should run smooth against the governor just not be making anymore power. Sputtering and misfiring is either an ignition issue or it is running out of fuel.
@@bcbloc02 thanks for the input, sir. My butterflies are about halfway and when you try and move them by hand, there’s lotta resistance. I’m gonna have to look into them a little deeper. Thank you sir.
Is there any chance you have the part number for a engine oil filter? Can’t find one anywhere old filter can’t read the number drop in style one comes up with the same dimensions they’re calling it a fuel filter. Thanks.
@@dirkdiggler1902 I believe it is a fleetguard lf503
@@bcbloc02 very good sir thank you also on the carburetor I took those two butterflies off that didn’t make a difference and I started messing around and adjusted the two screws with the springs on them outward and it made a big difference, so I’m guessing they either let more fuel or air in a revs up, higher now without sputtering it seems like I got them cranked almost all the way out so it seems to me the air fuel mixture is just not quite right. Thank you sir.
Noticed a wooshing sound when you pressed on the throttle and you instantly mentioned the timing. Are those two things related?
Timing affects carb signal yes.
They are work horses, not race horses. People forgot that, it's why so many died 'in harness.' Once people learn to adjust their driving, the potential for lasting forever is there. There's a lot of those old farm trucks around here, the only time you see them out is during harvest. You learn to crest each hill slowly, ready to hit the brakes, because there might be one just over that hill. They move. Not fast. Most of the time they can stop, but sometimes you have to adjust for that. Let them get out, join the parade that's going to grow behind them. Impatience, around here, will get you in trouble during harvest.
Yep it will get there, you just might spend 20 minutes pulling a hill in 2nd or 3rd gear but eventually the job is done. :-) The good thing about the low power is you don't get going very fast so the brakes work better. lol
@@bcbloc02 yeah, you take your foot off the gas, by the time your foot gets to the brake, it's nearly already stopped.
should work till you get the cummins put in. I share your carburetor tag pet peeve, there must be slackers everywhere.
Brain pick time. Brian, anything overly complicated about working on Hydro-static units? I realize they will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Sorry, I forgot about your video.
Not really just a BUNCH of parts if you tear down to the component level so you need a big space to lay everything out and keep it together so all parts go back in the holes they came out of.
Thanks Brian.
Very strange fuel injection setup you got there. Never seen one quite like it.
😁☕️👍
Nothing something with a p pump wouldn’t fix.
For sure!
Worlds most complicated carb
Set it on fire first