Via Ferrata Dolomites: practical handbook and technical manual
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- Опубликовано: 29 янв 2016
- The best practical handbook for via ferrata in the Dolomites. This via ferrata manual show you in some minutes the basic technic and the modern equipments for this amazing climbing activity. Particular attention is dedicated at the via ferrata gear and the differents via ferrata kits, with general comments at the via secondary ferrata equipments.
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Roberto has guided my family on several via ferret climbs. His english is actually very good. He is an EXCELLENT guide, very professional and has always made my wife (the non-climber) feel totally at ease. The trips were well organized, fully equipped and were loads of fun for all of us. It's been several years since we climbed with Roberto but I'm very eager to return.
Hi Gregory!
Thank you very much for your contribute in my videos collection!
See you next time in the magical Dolomites!
Ciao
Roberto
Very interesting, thank you for the explanations!
Thanks for making this video
This is very helpful, thank you for taking the time!
Mi piace molto come lei parla con le parole in inglese ma in italiano. Super!!!! Ciao di Canada
Great video! Grazie Roberto!
Learned some new things from this video, thank you!
Very good explanation for people who take first steps to climb 👍 good job 👏
Most helpful. Thanks!
Gracias por tu tiempo siempre se aprende algo saludos desde México.
Rented equipment for my first time and they didn’t put the harness on me properly like this guy. Thank you for the valuable information, subscribed
Thank you! Have you great climbing days!
very clear explanations for complete beginners, thank you!!
Thank you! I wish you great climbs!
Thank you, I enjoyed it
Bellissimo video, grazie 🙏
Thank You Roberto! This was very informative and helpful.
Hi Bill! Thank you for your impression.... I wish you great climbs!
Really helpful, informative video that furthered my knowledge of Via Ferrata immensely.
Hi Coran! Thank You! Don't hesite to ask me more info, ciao
Bravo Roberto ☝️🤗
very good instruction video, thanks!
Thank you very much! 🖐🏻🤠🏔
Thank you for the guide, roberto
Hi Thank you for you vision and for you inscription
Ciao
Roberto
very useful! great job
ermate Thank You! Have you great climbing days! Ciao
Molto utile - grazie!
Wow you must be from Manchester like me! Jokes apart, very nice and instructive video. You are obviously very experienced and knowledgeable.
Nice climb nice tutuorial
Thank you Sir!
Hi Tomoki! Both type of shoes are good..... Depend where you climb. If you are in high elevation peak are sure better the hiking boots or better mountain boots. On the ferrata on south faces or later in the summer the approach shoes are ok.
Greeting from The magic Dolomites
Ciao
Excellent video. Your english was very easy to understand!
Thanks Brian! Don’t hesitate to ask me more info. I wish you great climbs!
Super helpfull!
your accent made my day!
"very practic!" :D
The RUclips automatic subtitler states he talks in dutch! :D
Sehr informativ, ganz viel Spaß und tolle Unternehmungen für 2016!
Danike dir und "Bergheil"
a volte si danno veramente alcune cose per scontate che così scontate non sono, grazie mille per la spiegazioni.
Che la salita ti sia leggera ;-)
Very useful video, short but still very clearly explained...thumbs up Roberto
Thanks Samir! Don’t hesitate to ask me more info. I wish you great climbs!
@@viaferratadolomites from 19.07. I'm in Dolomites again for photographing and filming...if we meet somewhere I owe you a beer
Samir Bodi Thank Samir! July for me is high season and I will be on the mountains.... it will be a bit difficult meet us.... in any case thank. Have you a great photo session here in the Dolomites. Ciao Roberto
Bravo.
Thanks
ciao e grazie x il video esplicativo. molto utile. io mi cimentero' prossimamente x le mie prime ferrate☺
marcello giomini - Ciao Marcello grazie per i complimenti e buone future scalate! Le informazioni sono la base della sicurezza soprattutto in questo tipo di attività
marcello giomini film fo
grande , well done
Thank you!
Hi Roberto
Schönes Video hast Du da gemacht. Das System von Skylotec kannte ich noch garnicht. Wünsche Dir alles Gute für die kommende Saison.
Tanti saluti da Germania / Nordrhein - Westfalen .
Danke!!! Diese Skilotech Klettersteigset ist alt, jetzt ist drei Jahren alt.... Ich glaube dass dieses Jahr ein ganz neu kommt. Leichter und mehr practisch. Ciao und Bergheil!
grandi !!!
Dude,,,thank you for the video. Andorra via ferratas in 2017 and Dolomites in 2018
Hi Christopher! Have you great climbing days :-)
Greetings from the magical Dolomites
Ciao
Roberto
I am going on three day course next month, I wear glasses for both driving and different one for reading. I was planning on wearing a driving pair tied round neck in case of them falling off.
Hi Gordon
Yes! good idea! Generally I use cheap glasses (buyed at the supermarket for some Euros) se in case I lost.... are not a problem.....
Have you great climbing days!
Ciao
Roberto
My day too 😅
Hi, im not an expert but me and most of the climbers usually hook the carabiners in opposite directions... Im not sure if its more safe or if im making my climbing unnecessarily compicated... Thanks for any inputs/comments
Hi Andre
Is correct only for the new generation ultra-light carabiners.... these are tested for the use in opposite directions.
The regular carabiners are tested for every possible direction of use.
In any case your observation is right.... next year I will upload a new version of video manual..... Actually the orange autobloccant is out of use and you don't find in the shop, the same (new) have a different mechanical system.
Have you great climbing! And greeting from the magical Dolomites!
Ciao
Roberto
Thanks for the training, very useful. At 5:37 you present a sling with an extra carabiner. Is it handmade or can it be bought? What is it called? I want one but I did not find it at online stores.
Hi Adrian
It's a extra karabiner to connect you in short distance when you would rest at one peg durind difficult (or athetics) sections. Yes I have home made with:
- 1 Via ferrata karabiner
- 1 prepared short sling
but in any case you can use a rock climbing quick draw (ask at one specialised sport shop) or you can connect one normal karabiner at the junction point of the two elastic slings of your via ferrata set (*)
(*) many models of via ferrata sets have a sling to connect a extra karabiner (normal) in this point.
Generally is explaned in the user manual of every via ferrata kit.
And last: this is a extra device good only for difficult via ferratas, on the easy or medium via ferratas (85% of the via ferratas of the DOlomites) is not neccessary.
Have you great (and safe) climbing adventures!
Ciao
Roberto
Hi,informative video.Thank you.Just one concern at 5.30,here you connect a carabiner directly to your belay loop.As far as I'm aware this can be used at a rest point just forward of a fixing.But used in other areas can be very dangerous as you are eliminating the shock absorber,creating all the potential failiures that could result from this.
Hi Paul. The third karabiner, somtime expecially on the difficult via ferratas, is a good help to traverse hard section or to hang for a rest. You don't need use on easy or medium via ferrata. Logically this is a not "standard pratic" but in any case "sometime" is a good help.
Ciao and Happy New Year with many good climbing!
Roberto
Hi Roberto,
Thank you for your reply.It just concerns me that this should ever be used during travel on anything but a level cable.Or just after a fixing to rest.But here you do clarify only when travelling on a level cable/traverse.As you'll know sometimes younger or more inexperienced people are some times tethered to a more expereinced person.This person falling would sometimes pull both persons down.As would the upper person on the same length of cable.The fall factors involved with a static system(no shock absorber) in even a 30-40 degree traverse in this scenario could be quite worrying.I think it would be helpful to clarify on the video that this should only be used on close to level traverses with care.
All the best and a another happy New Year with happy climbing I hope,
Paul.
Hi,Paul.
Yes, the third karabiner is a good help only for:
- rest points up of the fix points
- or to traverse orrizontal difficult (and short) sections.
in these two configurations you don't have the danger of "fall down", so this karabiner can position with a short sling, extra the "shock absorber" line, or if your via ferrata kit have a good ring up of the "shock absorber"... directly here.
In any case the "third karabiner" is good only for difficult via ferratas. For example in the 90% of the via ferratas of the Dolomites is not necessary.
I hope that my description is ok, on the video is not so clear this configuration.....
Have you good climbs!
Ciao
Roberto
Hi Roberto,
Yes,clipping to the ring up of the shock absorber where the lanyard divides in to a y would be good.It takes quite a force to tear or activate the absorber,so I think you would have to be unlucky or very heavy to balance your weight off it and have it operate/tear.Even connecting the quick draw/third carabiner to that point,but ensuring you have both ends of the lanyard connected as well.In case certain types of carabiner twist and unclip them selves in a fall.
Atb,Paul.
Hi Paul. The shock absorber is activated only with a strong "run out" force. Hang at the shock absorber is not problematic for a rest.
Thank YOU for your comments
Ciao
Roberto
What coat do you have?
bravo e basta!
This video tutorial was indeed practical and just straight to the point! Thank you sir! But just one question, I often observe that climbers carry really small backpacks doing the ferratas. But how about for trekkers? In my case, I trek and camp for like 3-5 days with quite a bigger backpack. Is it ok to take the via ferratas with a bigger back pack?
Hi! Don’t worry and study my PDF files at these links:
How organize your technical clothing and backpack?
This aspect is very important, it's mandatory to read this PDF file:
www.discoverydolomites.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/INFO5_Clothing.pdf
Refugios of the Dolomites
The refugios of the Dolomites are high elevation hotels, here you can read the general rules and organization of the Italian Alpine Club refugios:
www.discoverydolomites.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/INFO6_Refugios.pdf
Have you a great trek!
Ciao
Roberto
Hi! Don’t worry and study my PDF files at these links:
How organize your technical clothing and backpack?
This aspect is very important, it's mandatory to read this PDF file:
www.discoverydolomites.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/INFO5_Clothing.pdf
Refugios of the Dolomites
The refugios of the Dolomites are high elevation hotels, here you can read the general rules and organization of the Italian Alpine Club refugios:
www.discoverydolomites.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/INFO6_Refugios.pdf
Have you a great trek!
Ciao
Roberto
I only camp out and I don't stay in the rifugios. But the info in the PDF was really helpful! Thank you for the tip!
Hi Kaying! Sorry for my late of the answer.... I was on the mountains for work. If you would climb a via Ferrata trek hut to hut don’t carry tend etc... the reasons are two:
1. Camping in high elevation on the Dolomites is generally forbidden
2. you need carry too heavy gear for a climbing tour....
Follow the info in my PDF files
Ciao
Roberto
Ciao Roberto, thank you for the warning! And thank you for all your helpful tips! Keep up the good work! :D All the best!
Excellent video. I can't find the auto blocker lanyard online. Where can I buy one?
Hi Christoph
You find the new skilotech via ferrata kit at this link:
www.oliunid.it/skylotec-rider-3-0-set-via-ferrata.html
Have you great climbing days!
Ciao
Roberto
what is the "auto block" at 2:50? I haven't seen that one before.
Hi Dave
It's the AUSTRIALPIN autobloccant system for iron wires on the VIA FERRATAS.
It's a uni-directional autobloccant device good only for via ferratas iron wires, you find more info at the website:
www.austrialpin.at/ice-mountain/klettersteig/ferrata-bloc.aspx
Don't hesitate to contact me for more info.
Ciao
Roberto
Hi,thanks for the video,what via ferrata set models have the automatic carabiner (2:43) ? I've been looking at Edelrid official website but cannot find the set with the same carabiners you have in video.
Hi Kristian! Now the Ederlid have new models, that are good.
In any case are others brands as the CAMP GYRO or the SALEWA ......
are good.
In this moment (personally) I suggest you sure the CAMP GYRO.... but consider it as a “personal preference “ :-)
Have you great climbing days!
Ciao
Roberto
@@viaferratadolomites yea, I already spend some time researching and found out these are the old models that are not being on market anymore, anyway thank you for your reply and recommendations ;)
Ciao, si a Merano, penso da Sportler dovrebbero noleggiare l’attrezzatura.... ma occhio! La Ferrata del Picco don ivigna a Merano 2000 non è facile per un principiante assoluto....
Thanks a lot!! This video is, for me, the most important one with regard to Via Ferrata. It covers the basic operational concept of the sport. And it’s very easy to understand.
Two thumbs up!!!
P.S. would u mind telling me the brand name and model name of the first Via Ferrata set? It’s the one orange in colour and has manual squeeze-lock to prevent accents break-open. Many thanks!!!!
Sonnenabend Thank you very much! I wish you great climbing days! Ciao
bellissimo video Roberto
volevo cortesemente chiederti se la chiusura del moschettone va tenuta verso la roccia come si vede nel video
grazie
Ciao Enea, Questa ai fatti concreti è più una pura disquisizione filosofica...... Comunque tu li metta i moschettoni da ferrata hanno un carico nominale di rottura che MAI si verificherà neanche nella peggiore delle ipotesi.... Quindi chi dice solo esterni o peggio i tedeschi che si prendono la briga di disporli addirittura contrapposti.... Diciamo che perdono solo prezioso tempo.....
Mio parere è che in montagna non si perde tempo in manovre inutili, concentrandosi invece su altri aspetti salienti per la sicurezza.
Concludendo: disponili come preferisci, tanto tengono lo stesso.... Ricordati che una caduta avviene comunque sempre su due elementi.
E speriamo che non avvenga mai!
Ciao
Roberto
grazie infinite Roberto per la risposta
consigli preziosi da una persona autorevole come te !
ciao
Enea
Ciao Roberto, ho una domanda. Nel caso in cui si abbia l'imbrago con anello di servizio, pensi che sia più corretto legare il kit da ferrata passandolo direttamente nell'anello di servizio opure legandolo all'imbrago? grazie mille
Ciao Francesco! L'anello di servizio è omologato come elemento portante di carico a norme CE... Quindi va bene innestare il set li, tuttavia se ti piace (e ti senti più sicuro) a prendere i due passanti dell'anello (alla cintura e ai cosciali) by passando l'anello... Va pure bene 😀
Io ai clienti in genere do imbragature universali con singolo anello portante solidale alla cintura, quindi non ho scelta, li va.
Buone scalate!
what about descent? what if only way down is same as up? how do you pass another person that is going up?
Via Ferrata in Turkey : ruclips.net/video/OufUVBVnYZ0/видео.html
Hello Roberto!
I would like to ask you what type of pants are you wearing in the video? Useful video, I liked your homepage as well!
Hi Danis
There are commune (and cheap) pants of Decathlon.... :-)
I wish you great climbing!
CIao
Roberto
Helpfull video Roberto, thanks!
What shoes would you use on via ferrata? High hiking boots or lower approach shoes?
Hi Tomoki! Both type of shoes are good..... Depend where you climb. If you are in high elevation peak are sure better the hiking boots or better mountain boots. On the ferrata on south faces or later in the summer the approach shoes are ok.
Greeting from The magic Dolomites
Ciao
Ciao, Roberto. What does "R" mean on some Via Ferrata escape routes? R for rappel?
Ciao Julian
“R” probably means “Ritirata” = retreat in italian language. I never saw until now, but this single acronym looks so....
Julian Jules
“R” probably means “Ritirata” = retreat in italian language. I never saw until now, but this single acronym looks so....
@@viaferratadolomites Thank you, sir.
Hello. What length of sling do you suggest for an extra anchor point for resting or for difficult passages like you use at the minute 5:29
Hi. Don’t exist a standard length.... from 20 to 30 cm??? It depend of your personal energonomy...
the most communes solution is connect a karabiner in the junction of the two slings (up of the shock absorber) but is not possible in every model of via Ferrata kit, especially in the old models....
Ciao
Roberto
@@viaferratadolomites thanks for your reply! Yes i know that some via ferrata sets have a loop for that and i was looking into some Salewa ferrata kits that have the loop but sincerely i would be afraid to use it because maybe i want to rest my legs for a bit and to hang for a second in my harness and i would fear not to trigger the shock absorber mecanism because of my weight hanging in the harness or that loop is not directly connected to the absorber? Thanks in advance for the clear up Roberto, ceau!
Don’t worry, the shock absorber device it activate with a heavier weight as a person... I don’t remember the minimal force to activated the strip, because it depend from brand to brand but you can hang it your weight without afraid. In any case if you prefer use a separate fix sling I suggest you to buy: one via Ferrata karabiner + one static dynema short sling (as you can see in my video) and connect it at your harness.
Have you great (as safe) climbs!
Ciao
@@viaferratadolomites Thank you so much for the info, much appreciated!! I will make a fix sling!
Ciao Roberto grazie per l'ottimo video. Una cortesia non ho compreso come si chiama l'autobloccante aggiuntivo con fettuccia gialla al minuto 2:57. Si può usare anche con cavi ricoperti in plastica o li danneggia? Grazie ciao
Davide
Ciao
Si tratta dell'auto bloccante prodotto dall'AustriaAlpin. Quest'anno dovrebbe uscire la nuova versione migliorata. NO NON PUÒ ESSERE ASSOLUTAMENTE USATO SU CAVI RICOPERTI DI PLASTICA O CHE NON SONO METALLICI DI DIAMETRO NOMINALE INDICATO SULL DISPOSITIVO.
Per altre info vai sul sito aziendale
Ciao e buone scalate!
+Roberto Iacopelli
Grazie per la risposta velocissimo ciao e Buona Pasqaua
COMPLIMENTI Maestro Iacopelli per L'OTTIMA spiegazione e per l'ottimo video!!!!
Una domanda: al min2.48 Lei fa vedere quei moschettoni ( per me SUPER) automatici,
con quel sistema ingegnoso, potrei per favore conoscere la casa che li produce? Grazie mille.
Cordiali Saluti
Ciao Luigi, si tratta del set da ferrata con moschettoni leggeri della EDELRID (marca tedesca), sicuramente è valido ma ti consiglierei di più il set leggero della CAMP che si chiama Gyro. Lo trovi sicuramente nei negozi sportivi ben forniti come anche da molti rivenditori in linea. Ho provato entrambi, che sono validi, ma il Gyro della CAMP ha lo svincolo dei bracci brevettato da loro e davvero super efficace! Con questo set scordati dei noiosi attorcigliamenti da dover disbrigare attaccati ad un solo moschettone in parete :-) Se hai gia fatto ferrate avrai sicuramente capito cosa intendo :-) BUONE SCALATE!
@@viaferratadolomites Grazie mille Maestro
Iacopelli per la Sua risposta e spiegazione!
Cordiali Saluti.
L'autobloccante può essere utilizzato in appoggio per riposo al posto di un moschettone su una fettuccia? Vorrei iniziare a fare qualche via ferrata e sto cercando di capire tutta l'attrezzatura che mi conviene prendere
Buon Natale Edoardo! No gli autobloccanti (entrambi) sono dispositivi per bloccare le cadute NON per appendersi.... Per riposare devi usare il terzo moschettone
Dove si può trovare quell autobloccante? E sotto quale nome?
Scusa il ritardo nella risposta ma in questo periodo soni sempre in giro per lavoro.
In breve: L'autobloccante arancione è della SKILOTECH germanica, ma sinceramente te lo consiglio SOLO per vie ferrate difficili... sulle Dolomiti è troppo macchinoso anche se il nuovo modello è stato migliorato e ridotto nelle dimensioni.
L'autobloccante giallo (terzo braccio) è invece della AUSTRIA ALPIN ed è molto flessibile per ogni via ferrata, oltremodo si inserisce in un set normale da ferrate e costa solo circa 90 Euro.
Sinceramente ti consiglierei quest'ultimo per tante ragioni di praticità.
Buone Salite!
Ciao
@@viaferratadolomites gentilissimo l ho trovato anche a meno pagato 70 euro spedito
Vedrai che è un buon attrezzo per integrare la sicurezza, la dove in base alle tue capacità o allenamento , serve.
Quando non lo usi tienilo appeso al lacciolo che all’altezza del torace congiunge gli spallacci di molti zaini. È il punto di posizione più comodo quando non lo si usa e per averlo pronto all’intervento quando serve.
Purtroppo l’AUstria Alpin lo ha messo in vendita con un libretto poco esplicativo.... avrebbero fatto meglio a spiegare bene quando e come usarlo. Forse per questa loro mancanza ha avuto una scarsa diffusione.
Tuttavia penso si tratti di un bel passo in avanti in fatto di sicurezza in ferrata. Te ne accorgerai già le prime volte che lo userai si tratti fisico o difficili.
Fammi sapere il tuo parere dopo un periodo di prova
Ciao
@@viaferratadolomites mi ero dimenticato di chiederti un altra cosa.sui video esplicativi della austrialpin dice che si può usare anche come sosta ma è corretto? O comunque meglio sempre usare o avere almeno una daisy?
Mah..... per appendersi su ferrate difficili è meglio usare un moschettone aggiuntivo applicato in testa al dissipatore, dove posizioni anche l’autobloccante.
Appendersi solo all’autobloccante non è cosa comoda e forse neanche sicura al 100%.
Più che una daisy chain nel caso e meglio un cordino corto con moschettone aggiuntivo.... ma qui spaziano nel campo delle preferenze personali :-)
Non ho in mano il libretto ma andrei cauto visto che comunque hai a che fare con diametri di cavo metallici differenti...
NEVER use a STATIC sling as the resting sling !
It is extremely dangerous because in case of fall while you are hooked to it, it will almost certainly fail !
Always use dynamic resting slings such as Edelrid "Switch Adjust" etc..
your English is great! Just the quality of the sound wasn't very good!
A mic would have been helpful. Very difficult to understand.
Non basta il kit da ferrata ma aggiungiamo ulteriori dispositivi di protezione/riposo. Mi sembra eccessivo.
ma questo è quello del gurzo?...cmq non è per fare polemica ma sta storia dell'autobloccante adesso...azzerare il rischio in tutto...a casa si rischia ancora meno...non c'è più amore...la montagna così viene stuprata...cioè chi si avvicina a pratiche come vie ferrate, escursionismo, alpinismo o arrampicata presumo che oltre al piacere di stare all'aria aperta vuole costruire un "legame" se così si può chiamare con l'ambiente che lo circonda, tutti questi congegni riducono a zero quel contatto interiore che si ha con la roccia, con la vetta...andrebbero bannati (e poi lo stesso concetto delle persone che si oppongono in linea generale alle ferrate, pensiero da cui mi dissocio)...nessuna introspezione...nessuna filosofia...nessuna battaglia con se stessi...perchè si batte se stessi mai la montagna...la montagna è li e sempre li resta e va rispettata...fra un po faranno la teleferica che porta in vetta al monte bianco, così i poveri alpinisti che si fanno la sbatta troveranno i giapponesi ad attenderli :D...poi oltretutto questi aggeggi servono solo a convincere persone inesperte a convincersi che sono in grado di poter affrontare qualsiasi cosa con sicuramente tanti incidenti legati proprio a questo, file lungo le vie ferrate e tutto ciò che può comportare una persona inesperta lungo una via ferrata difficile