Candle Testing. Test Safely and Accurately. First burn to end of life.
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- Опубликовано: 17 фев 2019
- I am a retired candle scientist and have tested more than 400,000 candles in my career.
I am co-author for the ASTM standards for candle fire safety industry protocol. candles.org/industry-standards/
Every major candle maker, Yankee and Glade to name 2, has sent me their candles for testing for sale to big box stores and all over the world.
I am making this video to show you how to safely test and confidently sell safe candles. I am including documents you can use to help you produce amazing and safe candles.
To begin, these candles were bought from a new candle maker. She was having trouble with the burn. The resultant winner is by default the winner, not that it performed well in aesthetics. I agree, a customer would not be happy. And I listened to everyone with questions on how I WOULD make a candle. So, I made a video showing you how to make an AMAZING candle, first time, everytime. I make a candle and test along side of ALL the industry big guys, and I beat them. Watch here: • Candle Making: Scent: ...
Links to files that will aid you:
Test Log:
drive.google.com/file/d/11zfJ...
Candle Safety Tips:
drive.google.com/file/d/1tywe...
Standard Test Proceedure:
drive.google.com/file/d/1PdJH...
Micheal Faraday book 'Chemical History of a Candle':
archive.org/details/chemicalh...
Candles courtesy of: www.sinfullyscented.com
At GEO-sustainable, we formulate everything using sustainable materials to make bioplastics, solar panels and supercapacitors.
Consider supporting our efforts to bring bioplastics to market at: / geo_sustainable
Contact us at: sales@geo-sustainable.com
Visit us at: www.geo-sustainable.com 
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FOR @sam z :To start selling with a long ember glow risks it burning up the wick, making for a dissatisfied customer. I have made a video for making your own fire retardant that you can put on your wicks, yourself, because China doesn't bother to.
The safety standard is the standard, and very easy to hit with the proper treatment of the wick. There is always the risk of a spark floating away and you know it. You can also ask for fire retardant mordanted wicks from your supplier. If not, use my fire retardant bath formula. Back to testing for you once you have done that. Fire retardant will make such a wonderful difference in the burn quality of the candle. You'll be hooked.
Let me thank you to the moon and back! This is a great video that explains why you test candles. Thank you a thousand times.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
Thank you so much for taking your time to answer. I appreciate it. Have a nice day !
My pleasure. Stay tuned. My Chandelier friends are ganging up on me and talking me into making a bunch more candle videos.
A must watch for anyone considering candlemaking. Thank you, very informative.
It is my pleasure. Stay tuned, folks have asked for more on candles, and I am more than happy to share everything I know.
@@GEOsustainable Yes please - Please make many more candle videos. They are immensely useful. Thank you for teaching us :)
Thank you for this series. I'm sure I'll watch them many more times before I even purchase any candle making supplies. I like to have "my head wrapped around" all information concerning any subject so I can proceed with confidence. Again, thank you I found this entire series simply explained and information packed.
You are most welcome. I am glad you found value in my content. Stay tuned for more! Thank you for your inspiration.
The most information I have received since I began candle-making! I feel as though I have been in class and definitely have more of an understanding!! Thank you so much!
Thank you. You folks have taught me too. There is much more to talk about. Stay tuned for more on candles.
This is hands down the most valuable video relating to candle making I’ve ever come across. Thank you so much!!
Glad it was helpful! Please share the info.
Sir, thank you very much for taking time to do this. I feel much more confident establishing a testing system now with some statistical information to back up my testing. Looking forward to more from your channel.
I am so glad I was able to help you. Yes, an entire series is now planned for candle makers in mind. Stay tuned, they will be coming very soon.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
Wow! Thank you so much for the time you put into this and the expertise you so freely shared. I've been making candles for many years and learned more in this video then I have in all that time! Again, thank you so much for doing this!
Thank you. It is all about the ones you reach.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
@@GEOsustainable Very excited! Thanks for letting me know!
Thank you so much ! Excellent video . Really super nice of you to share with us. Take care nice man .
My pleasure. Thank you. I am so glad you find value in my presentation. Stay tuned, always more to say about candles.
This is EXACTLY what I needed, thank you so so much!!!
My pleasure.
Thank you so so much for this video. It was extremely informative. I think everyone who makes candles, or even only burns them, should watch this. I now realize that I have bought and burned candles that were potentially dangerous. As a budding candlemaker, I am excited to know how to properly test my candles.
Great to hear, Stay tuned for more candle making videos to come in the very near future.
@@GEOsustainable Can you make a candle video related to temperatures, Fragrance Oils and Colors? Please let us know how to properly bind them to the wax, and if they are different temperatures for different waxes.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
Oh my god.. you're a candle scientist! God sent you to me. Bless you.
Thank you. Bless you too.
Ok thank you I'll continue testing till I get it right thank you so much for your help
My pleasure. Glad I could help.
Thank you Sir for making this video. I'm beginning my candle-making journey and have found your video very helpful and informative. Thank you for sharing your insights. I hope that you will continue to make more candle videos 🕯
I am thrilled you are beginning a new journey. I do plan on making more candle videos. You can request topics to cover.
Super helpful and thank you! Facts and guidelines, not simply experiences!
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
GEO-sustainable I look forward to it!
@@GEOsustainable I've just subscribed! 😊
@@GEOsustainable did you ever end up doing this series? I'm extremely interested. thanks
@@CreativeArtistPromo Yes, check out the playlist for candle making here. ruclips.net/p/PLmAU7fwOLS3HgSzH3CBD4ARUSOfDBiTXS
Shame RUclips has not let this video get more views. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Wow I never knew so much went into a candle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My pleasure. Stay tuned. Because of overwhelming response, I will be digging much deeper into the science of candles.
This is so cool! I plan on getting into candle making. I'm learning so so much!
So glad to hear it! Good luck!
i hope we see more candle related videos!
i felt like i was in a candle class 👏🏻
thank you for this video and for taking your time to teach us😌
Thank you for your comment. Yes, I plan many more candle related videos. If you want me to cover a topic, let me know.
@@GEOsustainable Any topic related to candle-making would be really appreciated =)
@@sanctuaryspothome I am returning to my roots and will make many more candle videos.
Great information in this video. Very helpful, thank you!
I am so glad you liked it. I hope it helps make safer candles.
Thank you once again for your expertise honestly more people like you need to be on this platform to inform such important information. I'll stick to glass . 🙂
Always a pleasure to answer questions. I will revisit candle making as I think folks want more, so stay tuned.
Thank you invaluable, about to do my first test on my first batch.
That is great news. Thanks for your comment. I love knowing I have helped you.
Very informative, thank you for posting this!
My pleasure. Thank you for watching. I have an entire series on candles with tips, tricks, and safety discussions.
@@GEOsustainable I have them on other tabs for future watching!!! Appreciate your expertise!
Amazing video thank you so much!
My pleasure. I am so glad you liked it.
Thank you 😊 very thorough testing 👍🏽
My pleasure.
Thank you so much for taking the time to create this video. I am a soapmaker dabbling with the idea of adding candles to my line. I am just at the research phase. I recently came across an individual who shared an experience they encountered with a customer who had kept a candle burning for over 20 hours. The container must have had carbon ball formation inside the wax pool that did create a secondary ignition. The reaction from others seeing this indicated, to me, a belief that because the appropriate warning label was present which the buyer obviously disregarded, that the warning label alone somehow absolved the maker from any liability. Based on what you shared, that would not appear to be the case.
I also liked the manner in which you temp tested the container and the information regarding that as well. I definitely feel better equipped to proceed, should I choose to, in creating safe candles. Thank you again.
Folks like you make sharing this information so very much worthwhile. Thank you for your comments. Feel free to subscribe, as I plan on doing a full series on candles, coming soon.
@@GEOsustainable done :-) now I can't wait to get home to watch your diy silicone mold making video.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
@@GEOsustainable looking forward to learning :)
I do trim before each burn, as that is on the instructions. And shake out the trimmed wick and any carbon balls. I covered dropping in this.
I know many do conduct 'through burns', and I have done them. Few have ever passed this test. It comes down to what I have observed as 'luck' that the wick moderates before dipping into the wax. You can design your system that way. Sure couldn't say how in a comment. I think Square Braids are good at this.
I would encourage you to conduct 'through burns'. And be tough on pass/fail. It gives you a lot of comfort knowing your candle is safe. Great question, and a subject not covered in this video.
I have concluded however, the only safe way to enjoy a candle is to put it on a candle warmer. I understand, not what you were expecting. Good luck and yes to the 'through burns'.
This video is brilliant, thank-you so much for sharing your knowledge! I'll make safer candles thanks to you.
Then I have done my job. More videos to follow on how to make safe and beautiful candles. Thank you for taking time to comment.
This was very informative thank you
My pleasure. I am glad it helped you.
Thank you!
My pleasure. Glad I could help.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
thank you sir v informative
My pleasure. I am glad you liked.
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing. Where is the testing form and another resources mentioned in the video? Thank you.
I am glad you like. The documents are links in the description, google drive documents.
Thank you so much! Until now, I’ve barely received any information on how to properly conduct a burning test, and your explanation is very helpful. My question might be a bit silly, but I was wondering if there are any differences in Europe regarding the criteria you mention for a proper test, or if it’s something that should be followed internationally (I live in Spain). I’ve read about the two glass brands you recommend, and if you know of any European ones, I’d love to hear about them. Thanks again!
Hello! This was incredibly helpful and I super appreciate how genuine and thorough you are in teaching us!
I did have a question that feels sort of related in regards to total burn hours. Is there a way we can estimate or understand the total burn time for each candle? We see many marketing claims stating up to xxhrs of burn time but want to understand how to calculate this for my candles so I can use this for marketing!
Thank you again!
That is easy. And one I included in the DOC I need to recover for you.
But, to learn how much your candle burns. simply get a scale and weigh it before burning and monitor the exact time of burn. Say, 4 hours, put it out and weigh it. Take the difference and divide by 4 hours (or the number of hours you do burn it).
Cheers
Thank you very very much!
Could you please explain how do you measure the hight of the flame? Do you start from the lower point of the flame or from the surface of melted wax?
Great question. I measure from the lowest point where I see the wick is black to th top of the flame, including any 'lick' of the flame.
@@GEOsustainable Thanks!!
Thank you so much for this info and links. Your videos are amazing!
It was so calm watching your videos. You reminded me of my professors at my art school.
Is there a safety test or concern for ceramic/clay containers?
The same as glass, crack and breakage hazards. . I did not go over the 10 degree tilt test for containers, but this is one you want for ceramic and clay pots.
@@GEOsustainable I see. Thank you. I will check the ASTM container safety.
Great video! Thank you for your insight. What causes the sooting? A wick too large?
Yes, a wick too large. I am glad you liked. I have done a series on candles that will help you make better, more pleasant, and safer candles. Check here: ruclips.net/p/PLmAU7fwOLS3HgSzH3CBD4ARUSOfDBiTXS
Beginning next month, I plan to expand more on the initial series and get into more detail on the topics.
very cool
Thank you!
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
Thanks so much for such a detailed informative video, can you consider doing a test with Several different kinds of wax like coconut apricot and soy bliss
Some of my newer videos are SOY. I don't know what soy bliss is, a trade name? I would be happy to, so email the details of what you need to see. I'm sure my email is floating around in a few videos.
Thank you so much for this video. Really appreciate the information that you shared. I am wondering if this similar procedure and same measurement of the various variables can be used for test burning soy wax candles as well ?
Great question. Yes, the test procedure I supply is a standard procedure used on every type of candle made. The only variable to this is for a candle, such as a tea light, that will not burn 4 hours.
@@GEOsustainableHello, your video is so informative, I find that I keep coming back to refresh my knowledge about my technique in candle making. I have a question about surface temperature.. To assist me in taking the surface temperature, I have been sticking a paper label (similar to the one you have on). I have been recording the surface temperature of the jar by moving my infrared thermometer along this paper label. Am I correct in doing so? Is this the true representation of the surface temperature of the jar or should I just move my infrared thermometer along the glass instead? Many thanks in advance.
When you measure jar temp, are you measuring it on the outside?
Thank you so much for this video! Can you please tell me what you mean by carbon ball formation? Thank you
Yes, a carbon ball is a lump of black that forms on your candle wick while burning. Look closely at your wick during a burn and you will see.
This video is incredibly helpful. Thank you for creating it. My question is, how does one know if their container is soda lime annealed glass? I've been using jelly jars, which are created to handle high temperatures, but have no idea of their production methods. Thank you!
Great question and it has one answer...use genuine LIBBY GLASS (Anchor Hocking, BALL). Jelly jars are annealed, so you can use the actual Canning Jar Jelly Jars. The company I know is BALL, so they would be my single recommendation for using Jelly Jars. Annealed glass breaks in large pieces with little velocity during breaking. A series is coming next on everything candles. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
I made an error in the first comment. I have edited it. Please reread.
Great video! Can ceramics be use as a vessel for candle making? Also I have seen people use cement to make thier own vessels is that a good idea? How would you go about sealing the vessels? I plan on selling but for now learning as much as possible. Thank you your for sharing your knowledge with us its highly appreciated.
No, do not use ceramics or cement. They will pop of pieces when they get hot and those pieces can be very sharp shards. Use only approved glass from Libbey or Anchor Hocking. I recommend only those 2 for glass. Metal also is fine. thank you, I am glad you like.
Thank you so much for this information. The first I have come across which is so precise. I am just starting out in my candle making journey and the whole candle testing process just seemed confusing and daunting.
I have 2 questions that I'm hoping you could answer please Sir.
1. I want to use all natural wax e.g. Soy wax and wanted to know if I should be testing different waxes (without fragrance) and different wicks at the same time? So for example, choose one wax type ans have in the same containers but then have different wicks. And then once I've chosen my wick, test it with different wax types?
2. I am from London UK, is there any way at all that you could test my candles (once made) or carry out an online live workshop, or view the candle test through videos? I know it's a bit farfetched 😔
Thank you for watching! To answer your questions, both 'yes'. I will explain as best I can.
Your plan to use natural wax is ideal, as I turn down testing paraffin. And yes, you chose a wax, unscented, using the same container, and test a range of wicks. Record which ones that were close, too small, and too big. You should end with 3 wicks, one winner, one slight too small, one slight too big. From there, you can add scents and colors. I usually recommend you stay with one wax.
I can test your candles, I would be happy too. And, I can make a custom testing video, using your candles, for you. I would ask to make the wax and wicks known to all, as I am here to help everyone make safer candles. That is how this video was made. I tested for a new candlemaker.
Stay tuned, I get a lot of requests for more on candles and I plan to make many more videos on candles.
Good Evening Geo Sustainable! Firstly, thanks so much for such a clear and concise method for us to learn from. Adele below asked a few questions on my list, but if I may:
1. What was the numerical system you used for mushrooming? You mentioned numbers 2 and 3 for some of the candles. Is it a 1-5 system, 5 being the highest?
2. If I tested my Soy wax with the fragrance oil already added, would I test with different wick makes (so a HTP, LX, etc) or can I start with say a HTP in 3 sizes and start from there?
Thanks so much for your time and looking forward to more learning videos from yourself.
Excellent questions!
1. I use from 1-5mm, you are correct. So, a 5mm mushroom, is larger than 1/4 inch, and a fail. That is the acceptable size, however I personally would not let anything above 3mm past me. I would go down a size.
2. Yes, 3 sizes of HTP is a good place to start for Soy wax. You can try an LX wick, as they are designed to curl a bit and that chews off a lot of mushroom. That said, small HTP wicks also curl. So, both are good choices to start with.
I can't wait to get back to making more candle videos, so, stay tuned!
@@GEOsustainable I had a few questions. I'm posting here to piggyback off of the previous person's mushroom question, but my questions go beyond mushrooming.
When measuring mushroom size, do you measure the entire wick, or do you separately measure the individual carbon balls that can form from a twisted wick? (Also, 5mm is smaller than a 1/4 inch, not larger. 5mm is about 0.2 inches.)
Also, I couldn't tell where you were measuring the vessel temperature. I thought you said it was at the "edge." Do you take the measurement at and above the melt pool? Why do you recommend 140 degrees maximum when the ASTM recommends 175? I just find that a bit confusing.
I don't know what you mean by soot or sooting. Do you mean smoke/smoking? (To me, soot is black build-up on the side of the jar, so maybe I'm just wrong. LOL)
What is the purpose of weighing the candles?
Thank you for such a thorough video!
Thanks for making this video. Lots of helpful information. One question i have is why do you need to weight the candle? What does that do?
Great question. There are a couple of reasons. One, knowing how much consumption gives you a clear indicator of how to size the wick. 4grams per hour is the maximum to linit soot. It is so important, big box stores require that you have this data. You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
@@GEOsustainable thats wonderful. Looking forward to more of your videos.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS DETAILED VIDEO! I wish all handmade candle artists could see this bc I am sure there are dangerous candles being sold everyday by unwitting creators. ❤ Also, Can you do these tests with more progressive vegetable waxes such as soy, soy blends, coconut and coconut blends? And can you also test hemp wicks? It is also my understanding that adding fragrance oil can effect candle performance... how would you account for those variables while testing a non scented candle? Would you just test exactly as you described with unscented candle first to narrow down the safest wick and once a wick has passed THEN add fragrance variables and test at each f.o percentage? Ty!
Thanks for your great questions. I really do need to make some new videos answering the questions you folks have asked over the years since this was published.
Yes, this test is for every candle, any wax, any wick. Testing unscented will save you a bit of time, typically you will want to go up one wick size once all the goodies are in the wax. Keep one number at the front of your mind when testing...200, that is how many house fires are started every day from candles. Every day, 200 people lose everything over a 20 dollar candle.
Yes, I made this video because when I saw there were no science based videos on candles by anyone, I simply had to share my knowledge of candle testing for Walmart. They require 6 months of documented testing a minimum of 10 candles per day, without a single failure for every candle system. It all started with a question from a friend that knows I ran a testing lab. And folks have really responded well to my videos about Chandelling. So, stay tuned, more videos on candles coming after the current series on Solar Panel has finished.
P.S. Soy blends all have Petroleum wax added to improve the burn quality, and perform the best of all waxes, although I never recommend a blend, I know how good they are.
Thank you for this video. Do you have any opinions/knowledge/info... on candle lanterns?
My pleasure. I have tested them.
Thanks so much for this video. I use 444 Soy wax right now and I'm curious, are the melt pools ever suppose to reach the edge of the glass and be 1/2" thick or so? would that fail a candle test as long as the vessel temp was under 140 degrees. thanks
Great question. As long as the vessel temp does not reach 140F, it will pass. Reaching the edge is great. Soy will not soot as much as paraffin, so it is a good choice. A good companion video is here. ruclips.net/video/fpPclJoFt-c/видео.html
Hi! I was wondering if you blew out the candles after every hour to record the ember glow or is that just once at the end of the 4 hour mark?
Good question. Blow them out at the end of the 4 hour mark. 4 hour is the end of the test cycle, so you record the ember glow time at the end of each 4 hour test cycle.
Thank you for such an informative video! It’s definitely helped me to tighten up my testing. This process should be common knowledge with all candle makers.
I have a question regarding the container temps. You’ve stated no more than 140F as the max, in a lot of the groups I’m in the “experts” have all stated 170F - is this misinformation or have the standards been updated since your video?
140F Max. This is the maximum temperature a person (unaware) will not jerk and let go. It is clearly written in the ASTM standard document. I am sure I put a link somewhere. If not , it is the ASTM Standard for Fire Safety.
I am thrilled you found me. I have a series that may interest you. Lot's of tip, tricks, and safety discussions.
I have under my belt over half a million candle tests. I think I may be getting close to expert.😁
You are correct. This test procedure is over 100 years old. You can find the actual original test documents on Atkins & Pierce website.
Thank you so much for you reply. At half a million candles tested, you sir absolutely rank as an expert! I shared your video with a Facebook group with over 40K makers, so I expect a few visitors will be by. There’s a lot of confusion out there but there’s a few of us who really do want to do this the right way and put out a compliant and well tested products.
I wonder where everyone is getting 170F from? They say it with such authority! I’ll go look for your link to the Standards.
I’ve a few candles to go fail now for sure!
If you ever feel inspired to create more videos I’d love to see your thoughts on testing with Wooden Wicks. I’m using them exclusively - the straight kind and the X kind. I find the X wicks to be more consistent but they do get quite hot.
In one of the comments you said Libbey and another brand are best for candles but let's say I want to use another vessel should I be looking for soda lime glass will that be ok ?what should I ask the manufacturer of glass?thank you for always being so gracious with your time.😊
Soda Lime, no. Borosilicate, yes. Ask the manufacturer if the Borosilicate glass can withstand a shock difference in temperature of 90F, from one extreme to the other in a dunk.
One more question for them. Can they guarantee the glass has no scratches and has never been bumped into another glass, because Libbey and Anchor Hocking can. Any scratch is a weak spot that can break under high temperatures, and is unsafe to use for candles or microwave. In the factory at Libbey, if any glass touches, they are both tossed away to be remelted. I doubt China cares, I know they don't. Which is why I don't recommend taking in glass from customers and refilling it.
I get this question often, from people that have taken the time to source the glass and find out how expensive Libbey and Anchor Hocking glass is. The price is worth it in my opinion. The standards are that high for what you get. Chinese glass has now become priced near them, not because they test, but because it is 'charge what the market will bear'.
Plenty of cheap Chinese glass out there, and you can save mere pennies in price difference.
Is it worth finding out if they tested any of it? Libbey and Anchor Hocking test every piece they sell. Libbey and Anchor Hocking are Union shops.
I have switched gears and I am posting a new video on making a Solar Panel that can charge any EV. I hope you watch, and LIKE. Cheers.
Thank you so much for making this video! I would like to learn to make candles for my own use and for gifts. I don’t plan on selling, but I want to know how to make the safest and best quality I can! Very excited about your series coming up. I am interested in recycling containers from other purposes into container candles, so I would like to know how to determine which are safe!
That is wonderful. I am glad my content is of value to you. I will be doing a video on the Glass. This will help you decide as to what is suitable for use in candles. Stay tuned.
Can I cement to make the lid for the libby glass will that be ok ?
Cement is a dangerous media to use with something that emits an open flame. Cement likes to pop and those shards can be very dangerous, VERY DANGEROUS. I do not recommend using cement for any part of a candle. You think people will use the lid to snuff the candle, and that is a point of risk. That point of risk is that the lid may not put out the candle and the cement will explode. No store will stock your candle if it has cement anything, no big box or little box store will touch your candle. You will have to sell each one from home. And you will be liable for it, every single one. I hope one never explodes and the person sues.
Hello, Geo Sustainable. I've noticed that in the ASTM they have a section called Candle holder- flammability test CPSD-HL-09402-MTHD , where flame inigment shall be 3 minutes, and it shall not crack or break exposing a sharp point/edge or expose flame to the outside of the holder. My question is, how do I know the vessels I buy is to par with this ASTM standard, or how I am supposed to test that in a home setting? For example, I want to buy amber straight sided glass jars and one of the manufacturer states that its amber jar can withstand 0 to 850F, but it states nothing about saying it went through the astm standard testing. In fact, most suppliers of this type of jars and even the libbey jars and other vessels in candle making sites don't state anything about the Astm standard. How can I know if they are safe to be used as candle vessels for selling? Will a vessel that can withstand high temperatures in general like the amber vessel I've stated above be sufficient enough to meet the requirement of the ASTM?
I co-authored the ASTM requirements for candles, flames, and holders. You will have to remind me at times how legaleze the document turned out.
The best way to answer your question is to give a brief of the standard, touching on the points in your questions.
In plain language, you may be talking about the Tilt test, wherein the holder cannot ignite after so (X) minutes of direct flame, fed by the fuel (wax) contact. Nor can it crack.
Without going into how glass is tempered, it must pass a test of an instant change in temp of 90F. There are, STILL and forever more, only 2 companies that do this...LIBBY and ANCHOR HOCKING. The type of glass is called Borosilicate glass. This will answer your other questions on do I think an Amber container would work....Is it Borosilicate glass manufactured by LIBBY or ANCHOR HOCKING would be my only question on this.
No other container you mention will fit this criteria. 0 to 850F is rather low. A candle flame reaches 2700F
When you come to me, you will get only the sure answers. I won't guess about anything I don't know through thousands of tests.
Stick with LIBBEY or ANCHOR HOCKING. They are even guaranteed.
If you plan to sell to big box stores, I assure you, they only accept LIBBEY and ANCHOR HOCKING containers, or if by some chance another glass company has proved their containers as rigidly as the two I mentioned.
When tempered glass breaks, it breaks in a few large pieces, about as safe as you can make glass shards.
If you do by some strange reason go with a glass from China that states it is Borosilicate, just remember, LIBBEY and ANCHOR HOCKING have help lines for theirs. Try to call someone in China for thiers.
On the legal side, if you make a candle, you assume all responsibility for the safety of the candle. If you deviate at all from the ASTM standard, you are liable. Good luck. Thanks for your questions.
(edit) P.S. Borosilicate glass is not, cannot, be recycled. It could be, but no one bothers to gather it. Nor can Amber glass. Once you put something in glass, you can't take it out, and the types don't mix. It fills many a landfill. 99% of glass hits the landfill. Sadly, because glass makers would LOVE to have it back as it saves 90% of the energy used to make it by recycling it. Glass can be recycled if it is kept separated. And making counter tops is not recycling, it is down cycling.
We produced one book shape candle for one customer, size around 19*13*4cm，weighs around 800g, the lab test 10° tip over test and can not pass, since it's tall and thin, could you kindly advise what kind of support can be added to make it pass the test, thanks in advance for your help.
hi there! could you please to this test for a wood wick candle?
Here is a very good video for you to watch before using a wick made of wood. ruclips.net/video/ouuWH0aCXxk/видео.html
Will testing the wax unscented do the job? Or do you also test again with each scent to see if it changes the burn properties?
I highly recommend that you test each scent, begin to end. Test. Test. Test. You are going to have an open flame, so TEST. Great question.
hello, Geo Sustainable. I have a question about ember glow. I saw that you said no passing over 10 seconds. Do you stop the timer when all the smoke is gone? I did a candle that was performing well in all other test and below 140 F with a full melt pool, but when it got to the ember glow , I waited until I didn't see any smoke left and it was around 18.09 seconds. Is this a fail?
That is a fail. You can use a wick that has been ember glow treated to prevent this. I also included a Fire Retard formula to do your own in one of my videos. I showed you how to conduct the test for proper level of FR as well.
Not only does that long of an Ember Glow cause a fire risk, it also burns up the wick preventing relighting, and both would be bad for the customer. Treated wicks prevent this.
Thank you so much for the information, I have a question, what type or brand of thermometer did you use? I bought one Bosh, but before I opened I noticed that is not to be used on liquids or glass Surfaces. Thank you
I don't know, a cheapo from China, same as the Bosch. I use it all the time on glass and liquid, and it is accurate. I would probably go ahead and use your Bosch. A way to test and get a feel for your thermometer is to put a glass baking dish and a metal baking pan in the oven and get reading to verify. So glad you like, stay tuned, I am working on a candle video as we speak.
GEO sustainable thank you so much, I like a lot your video and because I am an industrial engineer I really like to do things measurable and as best as possible, I am Mexican, but I live in Norway now, and because my Norwegian is not so good yet I am having problems to get a job so I am trying to get this hobby that I have had for many years as good as possible to be able to sell here in Europe where the competition and quality is so high. And again THANK YOU so much for your videos!!
Hello, Geo Sustainable. I have been following a testing protocol very similar to what you've shown here, so thank you for confirming I'm on the right track. I am trying to make small containers (filled glass votives, 2" diameters) and am finding it challenging to keep the container walls under 140* while the melt pool is hot enough for proper fragrance throw. Can you offer any advice as to what to try to achieve this balance, or am I after the impossible?
Yep, you're on the right track. Try a Tea Light wick. They are small enough to keep a 2" cool. You can also try the Flame Retardant formula I shared in one on my videos, as it will reduce overall flame height. Bleached wicks will also burn somewhat smaller than an unbleached wick of the same braid count.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you so much! I will check these options out.
Question about meltpool and sinkholes: the last successful candle, would you call the unmelted wax around your successful candle a sinkhole Or small melt pool? Or is that how its meant to be as long as its safe?? Thanks heaps.
Yes, these were test candles. I had them made for this video. The last one passed all safety tests. It was undersized for the candle wax in my opinion. The result was a small melt pool. That said, small is better than too large as many customers will burn more than 4 hours. Soot is a huge problem, and you will want to stay on the small side.
Have you tested wood wick candles? What would be different for the safety testing. I read that they do not "mushroom" or carbon ball formations. Is that correct? I have tested the sizes to make sure there would be no tunneling and the flame is well under 3 inches, however once the candle is burned most of the way down there is some black in the soy wax, I assumed it was just from the wood burning that dropped into the wax? Thank you for this video!
Wood Wicks. I should cover those. I have tested them. And I have never passed one due to safety. In this video, I talk about the 'ember glow' time. Extinguishing a wood wick candle is more akin to putting out a campfire than huffing out a candle wick. You may want to watch this video on making flame retardant for your wood wicks. ruclips.net/video/ouuWH0aCXxk/видео.html
A wood wick does one thing very well; it gets a great melt pool. I designed a wick to mimic that very attribute. The Fil-Tec UltraCore 3.00. Either that or they developed the wood wick to mimic my 'wide wick'. We both popped up about the same time, after a conference by the NCA on small melt pools talk.
One thing I had trouble with is that a wood wick sort of fizzles out and the flame gets very small. Which explains the lack of carbon build up. The flame chews up the carbon (and the wick) for lack of fuel.
My last word on wood wicks is if you can get them to pass 'ember glow', they make a fun and attractive wick.
Thank you for this video it was super helpful! I have a few questions. In the video I believe you mentioned it is not necessary to have full melt pool for the first burn, around when should there be a full melt pool then? What causes the candle to extinguish itself at the end of the candle life and if it does not what does that mean?
I am so glad you found this useful. Yes, trim the wick before each burn to 1/4". Correct, a full melt pool is not necessary, as the pool will grow for successive burns. The wick tab is what puts out the candle at end of life. It is the metal retainer that holds the wick, and it does the trick of being the safety for the bottom. As the candle burns, it consumes wick along the way. One it has burned all the wick, the metal puts out the ember glow by taking away the heat. The end of life is when you can no longer light the wick. And stay tuned, I am making a video on glass and it will be of value to the series I have been working on. And, if the wick does not go out once the wick burns down to the metal tab, you have an unsafe candle system. To solve that, I would need to know more.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you so much for your explanation! I will be on the lookout for your upcoming video.
Hi. cau u plz list down main 3 best tips for a successful candle? I got a little bit confused by watching your video that the one u trimmed wick, it was not successful. Do u agree that a wick should not be trimmed? looking for your positive reply. P.S. Im new to candles making. Thank U
Your video is so helpful, thank you! I see that the recommended test time is 1 hour per inch of diameter of the vessel and that the vessel shouldn't go above 140 degrees. Does this temperature limit still apply when doing power burn testing? My candles are doing great when following the recommended time but if I let them go for hours beyond that, they creep up to more like 160..
No, the temperature limit is not required for a 'power burn'. A power burn only makes sense if the wick is 'self trimming'. Great question, and one I have gotten hundreds of times. I think it may be time to update my video to include the things I forgot in the first one.
I applaud you for 160. I would be very happy with those temperatures on an 'abusive burn'.
Congratulations and thanks for the questions. Thanks for watching. Share, like, and watch the entire series. More to come soon.
@@GEOsustainable Ok great, thank you! I will definitely keep an eye out for more videos and watch the others in the meantime. It looks like you're already planning on talking about wood wicks, I look forward to hearing your thoughts on those.
Thank you so much for this priceless information. There is one thing I'm really unclear about when testing. Do you trim your wicks before every relight during the testing process or do you continue it as a power burn Please clarify for me?
Great question. I trim before each lighting. An abusive burn is not required as a safety test, as each candle has a 'trim before use' label attached to the base. This test procedure is in compliance with the ASTM standard for Candle Fire Safety that I co-authored.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you so much!
I need you suggestion please My candles are passing everything but the ember glow. My vessels temperatures stays way below 140 f but my emberglow sometimes go to 20 second is it ok to go ahead and start selling it because thats the only thing thats failing everthing else is a passing I have been testing my candles for 1 year and still havent begun to sell . Saftey is very important to me . But im not sure why my ember glow is like this everything else is a pass.
To start selling with a long ember glow risks it burning up the wick, making for a dissatisfied customer. I have made a video for making your own fire retardant that you can put on your wicks, yourself, because China doesn't bother to.
The safety standard is the standard, and very easy to hit with the proper treatment of the wick. There is always the risk of a spark floating away and you know it. You can also ask for fire retardant mordanted wicks from your supplier. If not, use my fire retardant bath formula. Back to testing for you once you have done that. Fire retardant will make such a wonderful difference in the burn quality of the candle. You'll be hooked.
Fantastic info!! How have the standards changed/evolved with the introduction of wooden wicks, with regards to testing/safety standards?
Great question! The Standards have not changed in the least. The Wood Wicks must meet the standards like all the others.
From what I know about wood wicks, that is no problem. I even consider them safer than cotton wicks of any type.
I suppose I should do a video, as they are becoming all the rage. To set chandeliers off on the right foot so they can confidently use wood wicks.
And again, standards never change. Thank you for watching and I encourage you to watch my entire series on candles. Lot's of tips, tricks, and safety discussions.
Excuse the autocomplete; The word for candle maker is chandler, from old english. But I suppose one could get away with chandelier is no one is really listening.
Hi. Really nice video. Thank you. What was the difference between the candles from the beginning? Did I miss it? It would have been nicer if it was explained why these candles performed differently.
Thanks. Did you happen to notice the labels?
@@GEOsustainable Sorry I couldn't understand what the labels mean.
Did you trim the wick before each burn?
Always.
Hello sir, I commented a few weeks ago and have another question. I have been following your advice as far as testing (testing in four hour increments and trimming wick before burns.) Thanks again for all of this info it has been super helpful. My new question is do you recommend doing a power burn with each scent? I have heard some people say it's important to do a power burn to make sure you see what the customers see. However, I am confused as to whether this is necessary or not. What would you recommend?
I have heard of this. It is called an 'abusive burn'. Some labs do it for big box stores, to mimic a candle left unattended. I have done it for customers that want to sell to Wal-Mart. I can recommend this type of test. The fail criteria is a cracked container, with soot, container temperature and flame not considered. I am glad you asked. I hope this helps
@@GEOsustainable Wow, okay thanks so much this helps a lot!!
@@KylahSade12 My pleasure. I am glad I helped.
I am having trouble with glass temperature. To get it hot enough to get a full melt pool, the glass gets too hot to touch
Yes. I cover this in this video. You have to consider all the factors that cause this I talk about in this video, and make adjustments.
This is a really informative video. Have you made any testing videos with soy wax?
I will now! Thank you. I fully support soy wax and have yet to. Soy wax is stubborn and I get a lot of great questions. I know how to get a great candle with soy from helping major companies get theirs right. Now, I freely give you every insight to the industry, and how I directed them to get into Wal-Mart and STAY in Wal-Mart.
This was my 2nd time watching your video. I bought some low & high-end candles from major brands, burned them over the weekend, and in 3-hours all of the vessels were 170-175F. They were too hot to touch for a second. Two of them smoked a little more for my liking, mushrooming, and soot along the inside of the vessels. How do they get away with this?
I'm not sure why so hot. The rule of thumb is 1 hour for every inch in diameter, for burn times.
The smoking is a result of too much wax being sucked up the wick and the system is out of balance. Try trimming the wick shorter to 1/8".
Let us know if this is still an issue after making these adjustments.
Lastly, turn it over. If it is made in China, they don't play by safety rules. Put them out and toss them out. They may even contain dangerous chemicals.
Great video for safety testing. I'm left with additional questions though. At the end of the testing you've determined that the one wick/container/wax combo was a pass. However, as a candlemaker who wants to actually sell candles and have happy customers, the candle that passed would probably not result in happy customers which you have acknowledged in another comment. But I'm stuck with what to do next in this situation. So what would the next step be to create a safe AND marketable candle? Wick down on all the ones that failed, and wick up on the one that passed and then test again? I'm pretty new to candle making and this is where I'm getting very stuck in trying to create a candle that first and foremost safe but that I can sell as well as enjoy repeat customers.
Great questions. To begin, these candles were bought from a new candle maker. She was having trouble with the burn. The resultant winner is by default the winner, not that it performed well in aesthetics. I agree, a customer would not be happy. And I listened to you and everyone with questions on how I WOULD make a candle. So, I made a video showing you how to make an AMAZING candle, first time, everytime. I make a candle and test along side of ALL the industry big guys, and I beat them. Watch here: ruclips.net/video/ugNEt7YsdbM/видео.html
@@GEOsustainable Thank you SO MUCH for your quick response and for sharing your vast knowledge! You are a true GEM and so appreciated!
Any tips on securing your wick to the jar?! Thanks!
Yes, I have a new video here in which I show the best method. ruclips.net/video/ugNEt7YsdbM/видео.html
@@GEOsustainable Thank you! Just watched it. Really helpful. I noticed you didn’t use anything to “glue” the wick to the jar. Are you concerned about the wick sliding? Mine did that one time :( I used a hot glue gun. I would really appreciate your input!
First, thank you for the video. I'm hoping to find some expertise on candle containers. If I have a container made from a blended mix of concrete and epoxy resin, is this fire safe?
ABSOLUTELY NOT. Concrete EXPLODES into sharp shards when it gets got.
Many folks ask. My only recommendation ever is to first: Never light a candle. Second: metal containers. third: LIBBEY glass.
Thanks for watching. Questions are always welcome.
@@GEOsustainable WOW! Did not know about the concrete. Yikes. Thank you for taking the time to answer. 🙂
Can I please ask where to place the base of the ruler when testing the flame height each time?
Great question. I place the base of ruler at the point where the base of the wick turns black.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you so much for your reply and your video.
Any idea why the jar temperature threshold was removed from ASTM f2417?
I did not know it has. But, I am sure it is because of pressure from the NCA (National Candle Association). They did not want a standard, and I am no longer there to stand up for it.
Regardless, a responsible Chandelier will self regulate. I have far more faith in the Crafters than I do the BIG BOX candles. I can tell you, China was not happen when we put the regulation in place, oh, so, many years ago. They had to remove practically every candle in Wal-Mart. My Safety Standard made a lot of the big boys angry, but they all complied. ASTM is like law.
I will admit it is a very difficult standard to hit, but I have seen hundreds of Crafters do it just fine.
I would have to buy the COPY of the Standard again to read it, so I will take your word it has indeed been removed.
My final advice, stay with my recommendations of 140F in 1 hour for every inch in diameter of your candle container. ie. 4 hr. test for 4 in. container. 1 hr. test for a 1 in. container, and so on.
It is based on a persons natural reaction to touching something TOO hot.
This is a fantastic recommendation and has guided my own testing journey however I assure you it is not a part of the current standard (version 17).
The 1 hour per inch rule does help clarify some things for me personally as I have always conducted a 4 hour burn test. My warning label says never burn more than 4 hours, therefore I have tried to certify the candle for that length regardless of diameter. Do you have thoughts on this line of logic?
Thank for making these videos. As you mentioned there are few resources for candle makers trying to move past a hobby and into a serious business. Are you available to contact outside of RUclips for consulting?
Do you stop testing when there is one quarter or one half inch wax left in the container? What part of the vessel do you point the laser? My results usually only exceed 140 when I measure the top quarter inch of the container, at the end of a 4 hour burn.
Stop testing when the candle goes out on it's own. The top of the container is the most important, it is where people will reach to hold it. So, it can't pass 140F or it will fail. Test for size of container, 3 inch diameter is 3 hour test, 4 inch diameter is 4 hour test. I hope this helps.
@@GEOsustainable oh thank you that helps a lot. I've been doing 4 hour tests on 3" containers and failure only seems to happen in the last hour.
My candles that don't get over 140 leave a lot of wax on the walls. Wicks tend to lean when the wax is getting low and the pool is deep. The side they lean to gets hot at the top of the vessel.
Try double wicking with smaller wicks.
@@GEOsustainable hey thanks I'll give that a try.
Hi just wondering is there a certain temperature your candle should be to get a goog hot throw?
I don't think that would relate. The wax is melted, so that is what gives the 'hot throw'. Larger melt pool will give more throw.
@@GEOsustainable so is it important to have full melt pool in the first burn?
What a great video! The best candle however had a lott of wax left over. Is this allright then?
These candles were supplied for the purpose of this video. You will of course be able to better wick your candle. The purpose of the video was to show how to test SAFELY and gather valid data for use by large customers. All that said, your one customer is just as important as many, so you can sell with confidence that your candles are safe. The wax remains are of less importance to me than sooting. Sooting is the leading cause of indoor pollution. Happy Candliering!
@@GEOsustainable Thank you so much for this reply. I think you are totally right about safety being the most important. I sell candles to customers and am very pleased with this advise.
@@anitamarskamp1866 I completely agree with you. And, I made this video in hopes folks will find it, as I see so many videos proclaiming candle testing when they are showing you unsafe and irresponsible ways of testing.
You are most welcome. And, please, check back. Due to the response from this video, I am going to do an entire series on candles and candle making. I will cover in detail, wax, scent, wick, insert, additives, and even the glass. I will give you industry insights to save you money and make better, safer candles. I will cover in detail the science of candles. You will want to watch.
Such fantastic information that is so tricky to find. So thank you for kindly sharing your knowledge! Question: Have you ever tested vessels made of materials other than glass? I am so curious about tin, concrete/cement/stone vessels that some companies are coming out with and if they can be safe if the proper testing is done. I love the idea of more decorative vessels but I definitely am curious about fire safety for understandable reasons. Thanks in advance!🙂
Tin is common. It won't crack, but be careful of container temperature. However, most often they are rather short and the flame doesn't get much of a chance to heat up the tin before the wax is gone. The strangest container I tested was rock. One company bores holes in rocks. Great idea, since heating rock takes a lot. Thank you, yes, the reason I made the video is because there is NO qualified person teaching candle testing on all of RUclips. Candle maker does not qualify as candle tester. I may create a video lecture course, as 200 homes go up in flames EVERY DAY due to candle fires.
Thanks for the response! Wow a rock hey? How did that experiment turn out? I would think that concrete and cement would be safe vessels but perhaps it depends on the thickness of the walls of the vessel as far as safety goes? Would love to know your thoughts.
I certainly am glad I found your channel and look forward to more informative and educational videos! I love candles and would love to start a business. I just want them to be safe above all else! I’d love to have my candle be in a concrete vessel if it’s safe to do so:)
Also what about the remaining wax on the jar? Shouldn't there be no or light trace amounts on the jar?
Yes, watch to the end. The end of life is the final test for safety. The same for trimming, I cover that in the video. Pays to watch to the end. Thank you for your comments.
@@GEOsustainable I watched it twice lol but at the end the candle that "passed" still had a significant amount of wax and I would call tunneling so I wanted to be sure if that was a true pass or a fail, but sort of pass based on what you were testing.
Hello, I've been testing my candles based on your candle testing videos. What i've noticed with my candle formulation is the following: I've been using cdn wicks for my candle, but I have an issue with the mushrooming and the ember glow. The ember glow sometimes reach about 12 seconds , and the mushrooms look a tad big, but not huge. I'm afraid that if I go to a smaller wick size than what i'm using it won't burn properly or have a good melt pool, since the wick I'm currently using for the libbey seems to be the right wick. There is no sooting and the vessel temp stays around 130 or less after burning for four hours, and it also leaves some wax unmelted which is ideal because that means the vessel won't overheat. Is this candle still a fail? Or am I over worrying about the ember glow and the mushrooming? Thanks.
Your candle sounds like a very good system.
12 seconds is not long. I would pass it, It would fail Walmart.
My test was designed based on the diameter of the container. 4 hours is for a 4 inch container. Test burn 1 hour for every inch. I think you will find your candle will pass.
However...if you are using Libbey, then you likely have a lid? You can also, dip the wick into the wax to extinguish it. Simply don't recommend blowing out the wick. This is what starts a long ember glow, like priming a campfire. FR helps with this.
If I recall, CD wicks are not FR treated. I posted a Fire Retardant formula you can use to ensure you never go above 4-5 seconds. It will also reduce the flame height and burn characteristics, so you may have to go up in size.
You will have to work it out, as it sounds like the wax pool and container temp are perfect. Shortening the burn time may leave too much wax.
You folks have me itching to do more candle videos, so stay tuned. You and other folks have asked really good questions I should address for everyone. Thanks for the questions.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you Geo Sustainable. Your information was very valuable and helpful to us, and I appreciate you taking your time to reply. :)
To start selling with such a long ember glow risks it burning up the wick, making for a dissatisfied customer. I have made a video for making your own fire retardant that you can put on your wicks, yourself, because China doesn't bother to.
The safety standard is the standard, and very easy to hit with the proper treatment of the wick. There is always the risk of a spark floating away and you know it. You can also ask for fire retardant mordanted wicks from your supplier. If not, use my fire retardant bath formula. Back to testing for you once you have done that. Fire retardant will make such a wonderful difference in the burn quality of the candle. You'll be hooked.
How this candle passed, I wonder, if it has been tunneling all throughout its life, and there is a considerable amount of soot left on the glass.
It passed all safety tests as required by ASTM standards for fire safety. Unfortunately, indoor air pollution from soot is not monitored in the USA for homes or industry. Arguably, OSHA needs much more ability to regulate indoor air quality.
Do you have to let the candle fully cure before conducting a safety test? Also after conducting a 4 hour burn test how long do you have to wait before conducting another?
Yes, let the candle equilibrate fully. I burned 4 hours every day.
You mention looking for carbon droppings. Do you consider any droppings a failure during/after the 3-4 hour burn testing at any point?
Good question. Carbon dropping of 5 mm or greater is considered a fail due to that large of a porous material can support a flame.
@@GEOsustainable thank you. I am up to my ears in the testing phase and another candler shared your channel. Lots of great information.
If the temp goes over 140 what do you do
Let it cool. I stir it to cool it faster. If it goes above 200F, discard it.
3” diameter do you recommend double wicking? I’ve made concrete vessels and I’m not having good luck with single wicking. I’m testing C-3 wax
Great question. With concrete as your container, you can push your wax to the edge. 2 wicks is a good option to increase melt, and scent throw.
I truly applaud you for selecting to make your containers with concrete. That has got to be the safest container I have ever heard of. One fellow I tested years ago make his by drilling holes in rock. Very safe. For you, I would recommend adding a binder like fiberglass (in addition to any pebbles you add) to prevent the concrete from cracking under shock.
@@GEOsustainable good idea I to add fibre glass thank you, on thing I need to find is a non toxic non flammable sealer.
Could you give advise please,what is normal flam flickering when burning candles.
Can you be more specific please? Flickering flame is due to draft
@@GEOsustainable Even if no draft halfway down all my candles flickering, tried lot of wax ,wick combo.CT , ht great.That flickering is normal?
Some flickering is normal in a draft. The container can cause flickering also.
@@clone633 flickering can be due to the wick being too large...too much wax being drawn up the wick. It can also happen when the wick is too small and insufficient wax is being drawn up the wick. Flame should burn steady and still when not in draught when correct wick is being used.
It looks like I'm doing my tests so wrong! Have to follow yours starting from now. Can you please teach us how to make a black candle, like jet black without clogging the wick? Also, what about wooden wick candles? :)
I answered from your other comment. Black wax is the worst of all for clogging. A Wood Wick sounds like a good idea to try for black wax.
I will make a black candle video. That is a good idea.
@@GEOsustainable yay thank you, is 1inch also the benchmark for a healthy flame for wooden wicks?
What size and type jar is this? Straight tumbler ?
Yes. 3 1/2 Libbey Rocks Tumbler. Straight sided. I think they smoke less than one with a mouth. It has a thick base, less likely to crack at the end of life. Libbey makes a full line of candle jars. Each is Boro-silicate, tempered for heat and shock resistance. I only use Libbey.
@@GEOsustainable I love straight libbey tumbler . Please tell me what wick you used ? I’ve tried htp 62 and it was okay but I think I can get better results. I’ve tried sooo many different companies and wicks lol. I also use IGI 6006
Hi, I want to ask if what problems this project/testing will address?
Every wax/wick/container combination must be tested from first burn to last burn, as a candle has an open flame. Candle fires start house fires 224 times each day. Following this procedure will ensure your candle is not the cause of one of these daily house fires. As a candle maker, you are legally required to perform this test on every candle product offered for sale in the USA. If your wax product contains a wick, this test must be performed. To provide a candle maker with liability protection from future litigation, you must provide documentation this test has been PASSED prior to offering your product for sale in the USA.
@@GEOsustainable hey uhm i have another question for ya, i have searched this through the internet but I still wanna hear your exact scientific explanation hehe. what can make a candle burn slowly and the wax we used is soft and small wick? will it really burn slowly if we use that? or will it be a fail? if i make a candle and i want it to be slow burning candle by using the palm oil, how is that? is it possible? we are making palm oil to candles because this is for our capstone proj. and i hope we can make it without problem.
Is it important to get a full melt pool in your first Burn?
Great question. I cover this in the video, as it is a very important point. Thanks for watching the entire video.
I got my answer from your video thanks
I struggle with testing my candles because I know customers don’t trim their wicks . So when I test I don’t trim bt each burn which gives me a fail all the time . I try to test for safety and reality but I’m starting to think that I am expecting the impossible . How should I really test subsequent burns if I want it to be real ?
I have to thank you for your question. You are a rare breed. Making something that can be so dangerous can be stressful, and I hear it in your question. Although not covered in this video, you can perform an 'abusive burn test', in letting the candle burn for 8 hours. It has been determined that a candle forgotten could happen. In making your candles, you could size the wick so that they can burn unattended. Doing that will help you sleep at night. Typically, you would downsize your wick one size.
That said, consider a car salesperson. And, you get my point.
When writing the ASTM standard on candle safety, we all argued about this very topic, and finally had to conclude we can't do more than what a reasonable person does. What we came up with is the 'abusive burn test'. Lighting the candle right out of the box, putting it on a 10 degree tilt, and burning it for 8 hours. I don't ever remember a single candle passing that test. And, it is not required by anyone.
Beyond that, put your safety label on. Those words were carefully crafted to provide safety for the customer and a measure of protection for the candle maker.
If you want my confirmation, you can send me a candle and I will test it at no cost and give you my assessment of just how safe it will be. My email is in the description below. I don't make this offer for everyone, just the ones 'that asked the right question'.
As a final thought. You could also do something I don't think I have ever seen. Sell WickTrimmers right next to the candles, even attach one to each candle. I think that makes your statement rather well. Yes, I know they are insanely priced and would double the cost. There is room for innovation in wick trimmers, no doubt. Although, in a pinch, I used to pinch the black wick to break it off. it is very brittle.
How should you really test? I have shown you the standard test required by law. You have to decide. I do tend to think most customers will trim.
Wow !! You really validated my frustrations ! The warning label is definitely ignored but necessary and you’re right that can definitely help me sleep . I’ve talked to countless people and they act so surprised when I say all candles have a warning sticker to trim wicks lol I think I feel a little better . I also know certain wicks like zinc wicks tend to mushroom more than the curling wicks which then made me fail because my carbon build up seemed to be too large --but the flame relit without trimming was well below one inch , container not too hot , and hot throw was decent. It’s so much to testing Nz I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question and offer such an impeccable service !!! I will email once I think I found a few decent option wicks for HT and burn .
@@GEOsustainable I agree, test for safety first. Then performance in my opinion
@@indeyac409 I agree with the abusive test along with standard test I talk about it in one of my testing videos and firmly back that idea. :)
So you don't consider that much hang up on the side of the jar as a fail?
Unmelted wax is not a fire safety danger. Would a customer be happy? no.
@@GEOsustainable Thank you, as I have been obsessed with getting a no hang up burn all the way down (or as little as possible.