It's absolutely insane how dozens of internet searches don't yield a clear answer. Why can't one single person say "Up moves point of impact up"? Scope manuals give instructions on some of the most obvious and intuitive details, yet neglect to dedicate one sentence to make this clear.
I 100% agree. "Up" moves the point of impact up (the crosshairs are moving down). Why can't someone in a video simply say you're moving the point of impact.
Usually most scopes use the same directions. Think of the turrets as a screw /bolt on top and the side of the scope where the turrets are. If you want change elevation to shoot higher, you would turn the screw anticlock to have the screw moving upwards (unscrewing the bolt/screw will move it upwards.) If you want to shoot lower, you will turn the screw/bolt clockwise which will move it downwards. The same for windage. If you turn the screw to clockwise, it will move to the left and if you turn the screw/bolt anticlockwise, it will move out, thus to the right. Thus imagine the turrets as screws that you turn and envisage how it moves when turning clock or anticlockwise.
I'm copying my comment as an answer to yours. Honestly, I find the whole concept of elevation adjustment on top and windage adjustment on the side seriously flawed. It's counter-intuitive. That's why there are so many people out there asking questions like "which way do I turn this to adjust", that's also why many scopes have the windage turret marked 1L, 2L, 1R, 2R and so on, to make it clear which way is left or right. If you think about it, the direction of the rotation of the side turret is UP or DOWN, these directions should reflect ELEVATION adjustment. But all the scopes out there make the side turret for windage, which is adjustment left or right... Similarly, the top turret rotation is LEFT or RIGHT, and it should be used for left or right adjustment (windage). But someone had a bright idea to make it the elevation turret, and now everyone is guessing if they are going up or down. This is ridiculous. Yeah, you get used to it with time, but I always found this utterly stupid. Elevation and windage turrets should switch places. UPDATE: So, I have been giving this some thought as to why the current state may be the case, because it is stupid. However, if you think about the mechanics of a scope, when you turn the turret, you are essentially turning a screw that adjusts the reticle inside. If elevation turret rotates in the horizontal (that is, LEFT-RIGHT) plane, but the screw it turns is perpendicular, or vertical, as this is the easiest for internal mechanics. Same for the windage turret, which rotates in the vertical plane (UP-DOWN), but the screw it moves is in the horizontal plane. I would imagine that switching these turrets would be much harder mechanically. Now if you know how screws work, you can see how turning it clockwise moves the screw (and the reticle) down, from the turret towards the scope body ( think how you would turn the screwdriver when "screwing it down"), and moving the screw/reticle up would be counter-clockwise, just like when you are "unscrewing" something. Similarly, for the windage turret, when you "screw down"/clockwise, reticle moves to the left, and when you "unscrew, reticle moves to the right. For a left-handed windage, these would be opposite, but the principle of moving towards or away from scope body remains the same.
This is simple, if at 100 yds your point of impact is 2 inches above your point of aim, you have to adjust your elevation turret 2MOA in the down direction as marked on the turret. Conversely if your point of impact is two inches to the right of the point of aim at 100 yds you have to adjust your windage turret left 2MOA in the direction left as marked on the turret. Now if your rifle is zeroed at 100m but you want to hit a bullseye at 200 yds. Calculate a solution using a ballistic calculator. In this example the bullet drop at 200 yds relative to a 100 yd zero is 4 inches. Meaning the point of impact using this 100 yd zero would be 4 inches below the point of aim. To correct your scope for this distance - 4 inches at 200 yds ~ 2MOA. To correct, adjust the elevation turret in the up direction by 2MOA (typically eight clicks). Note all elevation turrets are marked up or down and all windage turrets are marked right or left. Most good scopes will also allow you to adjust distance related parallax either at the side or front. Note FFP scopes windage and elevation readings in scope are accurate at all magnifications whereas with SFP scopes MOA/MIL readings are accurate at a fixed magnification.
I really appreciate the detail in this video. I have college level calculus and trigonometry training, and this video makes it super easy for me to understand. I didn't understand any of this before.
Its very simple e.g. for mils a full circle = 2PI radians = 6.283 radians or 6283 MRAD - this is the system used for rifle scopes although for ease of use NATO uses 6400 MRAD as its standard e.g compasses (easier for people to remember with marginal loss of accuracy, well below that of a hand held sighting compas).
If you need angular measurements, then you are moving the barrel linearly because it is straight therefore giving it the correct angle to produce an trajectory for the bullet to follow an accurate arc.another words the bullet moves in an arc and the barrel is in a straight line.
Most people don't say immediately drops I think it's imperative when gravity is pulling constantly I sometimes second-guess whether it was immediately dropping or not which forces me to hold off I like the fact that you mentioned that early
Thats what i wanted to verify b4 i go tryin to sight my scope in. Sum1 had mentioned it to me after i quit tryin for the day. When adjusting scope vertically, it moves reticle opposite direction. I needed to go down, so i turned it in the down direction & i couldnt even see where my bullet was hittin most the time. Time & time again, i ran into the same issue. I wasted too much ammo gettin frustrated with it. I was also pretty hangry, so i just put it away. That was a couple days ago...lol, then we were hit with more weather.
Thank you for this video it helped explain lot more than some of the others I have watched especially the 1/4 MOA click to MIL DOT ratio (no other video has given that info) cheers mate
If i'm zeroing my scope, i'm never thinking in POI, i'm thinking ret up/down, left/right etc, because i'm moving my ret to the mark, seems obvious to me... Consequently i'm constantly going the wrong way because the turrets are always opposite and it's annoying,
great video.. question, at the 18:41 video mark, when explaining bullet drop, where did you get 1000? you divided 500 by 1000, but i am just curious where the number 1000 comes from..
Great video, one Q, have a 22-250 Hornady 50gr A-Max out of a Bergara B-14/ 22" barrel, your calculations don't work out when I tried them, always have shot a Mils scope, you know the ballistics on the bullet, I know the drop and have shot it but your calculations don't jive with my dope, Can you fill me in, you said you would, or explain the formula you used please , just the simple like 300yds, and mil adjustment please, Keep more video's coming . Great job, 👍👍👍👍
Did I miss something? Watching your video and you describe differences between MOA and Mills which was pretty good, and you referenced how not to combine the two but then you use Mills to calculate for yards. Milliradians are metric, not standard. 1 mill is equal to 10cm at 100m. 1m is equal to 1.0936 yds. So while your formula is correct, your output is off due to the two systems not meshing. If you use mills, calculate in meters, and THEN convert to standard if you so choose. Don’t calculate with 1 system and the other simultaneously or else you need to plug in the formula for conversion in as well which just complicates things more. It took years for me to be able to use the two interchangeably. I suggest for new shooters to either work with one or the other. Since I prefer mills, I never use feet or yards. The only time i use standard system is on the speedometer in my car or when talking to normal people on how far something is. But when I’m on foot hiking or navigating but especially while shooting all distance is metric. Finally, I realize that .0939 is not a big difference and the effect is negligible. However, this is supposed to be about precision shooting and the calculations for precision shooting. Rounding down numbers is the anti thesis exact opposite of precision. If you’re talking about just doing some Kentucky windage and making it work. Hey more power to you I get it. But I’ve been an instructor very long time, and when I first became instructor, my instructors told me if you’re gonna teach something teach the right way at the beginning and let them screw it up down the line.
Honestly, I find the whole concept of elevation adjustment on top and windage adjustment on the side seriously flawed. It's counter-intuitive. That's why there are so many people out there asking questions like "which way do I turn this to adjust", that's also why many scopes have the windage turret marked 1L, 2L, 1R, 2R and so on, to make it clear which way is left or right. If you think about it, the direction of the rotation of the side turret is UP or DOWN, these directions should reflect ELEVATION adjustment. But all the scopes out there make the side turret for windage, which is adjustment left or right... Similarly, the top turret rotation is LEFT or RIGHT, and it should be used for left or right adjustment (windage). But someone had a bright idea to make it the elevation turret, and now everyone is guessing if they are going up or down. This is ridiculous. Yeah, you get used to it with time, but I always found this utterly stupid. Elevation and windage turrets should switch places.
Yep, that makes sense to me, if the elevation was on the side I’d automatically know which way was up or down or wind age in the top left or right. Who do we vote for to make this happen.
So, I have been giving this some thought as to why the current state may be the case, because it is stupid. However, if you think about the mechanics of a scope, when you turn the turret, you are essentially turning a screw that adjusts the reticle inside. If elevation turret rotates in the horizontal (that is, LEFT-RIGHT) plane, but the screw it turns is perpendicular, or vertical, as this is the easiest for internal mechanics. Same for the windage turret, which rotates in the vertical plane (UP-DOWN), but the screw it moves is in the horizontal plane. I would imagine that switching these turrets would be much harder mechanically. Now if you know how screws work, you can see how turning it clockwise moves the screw (and the reticle) down, from the turret towards the scope body ( think how you would turn the screwdriver when "screwing it down"), and moving the screw/reticle up would be counter-clockwise, just like when you are "unscrewing" something. Similarly, for the windage turret, when you "screw down"/clockwise, reticle moves to the left, and when you "unscrew, reticle moves to the right. For a left-handed windage, these would be opposite, but the principle of moving towards or away from scope body remains the same.
@@peterdarlington4117It's counterintuitive if you're concentrating on which direction your crosshairs are moving. Instead, think of it as adjusting your point of impact (POI). If your shots are landing low, you need them to land "UP".
I’m sorry that you got guys complaining because they don’t know how too use their head on wtf the dials do they clearly affect the impact on a up down left right bases I’ve seen kids figure it out faster than these guys
Sir l have a simple discovery vt-r 4 -16×40 ao, and sometimes back water gets inside so l open up the scope and clean all water drops inside without removing the inside tube, but after l fix them back the power of the scope changes, which means starting from like 40yards power ranges its seems OK but while turning the ao from 50yards to infinity power its getting more and more blurry and its getting worse if l zoom in. Bottom line is starting from 50 to infinity l can't see a thing at all, please help!!
My Tasco Sportsman manual says "to move the bullet impact, turn the windage and/or elevation adjustments in the direction on the dials that corresponds to where the impact point falls on the target (for example, if test shots fall low, adjust elevation Down" so this means you are moving the reticle to your target, and down adjustments move the reticle down, not opposite as you are stating??????
you turn the turret the direction your poi needs to move to be in line with your cross hair.So if you are shooting low ,you turn your turret in the "up" direction,and if you are shooting to the right,you turn the windage turret in the left direction.
My understanding of all this is that you need to adjust your scope so that the Point of impact (POI) to directed to your initial point of aim (POA)? So for example, if your shot falls low you need to dial the elevation turret on your scope in the direction that will increase the bullet elevation (usually ACW) so that the next shot will land higher. Another way of looking at this example would be to say that the bullet impact needs to move upwards. Similarly if the shot lands (POI) to the right of your POA you need to move the shot by rotating the windage turret (usually ACW) so that the next shot will land to the left. I'm Interested to see if I have this right? As a UK shooter we don't often get the chance to shoot beyond 300 - 500 yds and on my last experience I was puzzled as to why I my scope (Hawke Sidewinder) had to be dialed upwards (ACW) when my shot (POI) landed higher than my POA. This seemed to go against everything that I believed to be true as noted above.
1 If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
It's absolutely insane how dozens of internet searches don't yield a clear answer. Why can't one single person say "Up moves point of impact up"? Scope manuals give instructions on some of the most obvious and intuitive details, yet neglect to dedicate one sentence to make this clear.
I 100% agree. "Up" moves the point of impact up (the crosshairs are moving down). Why can't someone in a video simply say you're moving the point of impact.
Usually most scopes use the same directions.
Think of the turrets as a screw /bolt on top and the side of the scope where the turrets are. If you want change elevation to shoot higher, you would turn the screw anticlock to have the screw moving upwards (unscrewing the bolt/screw will move it upwards.) If you want to shoot lower, you will turn the screw/bolt clockwise which will move it downwards. The same for windage. If you turn the screw to clockwise, it will move to the left and if you turn the screw/bolt anticlockwise, it will move out, thus to the right. Thus imagine the turrets as screws that you turn and envisage how it moves when turning clock or anticlockwise.
I'm copying my comment as an answer to yours. Honestly, I find the whole concept of elevation adjustment on top and windage adjustment on the side seriously flawed. It's counter-intuitive. That's why there are so many people out there asking questions like "which way do I turn this to adjust", that's also why many scopes have the windage turret marked 1L, 2L, 1R, 2R and so on, to make it clear which way is left or right. If you think about it, the direction of the rotation of the side turret is UP or DOWN, these directions should reflect ELEVATION adjustment. But all the scopes out there make the side turret for windage, which is adjustment left or right... Similarly, the top turret rotation is LEFT or RIGHT, and it should be used for left or right adjustment (windage). But someone had a bright idea to make it the elevation turret, and now everyone is guessing if they are going up or down. This is ridiculous.
Yeah, you get used to it with time, but I always found this utterly stupid. Elevation and windage turrets should switch places.
UPDATE: So, I have been giving this some thought as to why the current state may be the case, because it is stupid. However, if you think about the mechanics of a scope, when you turn the turret, you are essentially turning a screw that adjusts the reticle inside. If elevation turret rotates in the horizontal (that is, LEFT-RIGHT) plane, but the screw it turns is perpendicular, or vertical, as this is the easiest for internal mechanics. Same for the windage turret, which rotates in the vertical plane (UP-DOWN), but the screw it moves is in the horizontal plane. I would imagine that switching these turrets would be much harder mechanically.
Now if you know how screws work, you can see how turning it clockwise moves the screw (and the reticle) down, from the turret towards the scope body ( think how you would turn the screwdriver when "screwing it down"), and moving the screw/reticle up would be counter-clockwise, just like when you are "unscrewing" something. Similarly, for the windage turret, when you "screw down"/clockwise, reticle moves to the left, and when you "unscrew, reticle moves to the right. For a left-handed windage, these would be opposite, but the principle of moving towards or away from scope body remains the same.
They never say if you shoot left do you move left more or right that's the key or if you're shooting high do you adjust it up or down
People are idiots and can't make things simple. Either way you got a 50/50 chance of getting it right.
This is simple, if at 100 yds your point of impact is 2 inches above your point of aim, you have to adjust your elevation turret 2MOA in the down direction as marked on the turret. Conversely if your point of impact is two inches to the right of the point of aim at 100 yds you have to adjust your windage turret left 2MOA in the direction left as marked on the turret. Now if your rifle is zeroed at 100m but you want to hit a bullseye at 200 yds. Calculate a solution using a ballistic calculator. In this example the bullet drop at 200 yds relative to a 100 yd zero is 4 inches. Meaning the point of impact using this 100 yd zero would be 4 inches below the point of aim. To correct your scope for this distance - 4 inches at 200 yds ~ 2MOA. To correct, adjust the elevation turret in the up direction by 2MOA (typically eight clicks). Note all elevation turrets are marked up or down and all windage turrets are marked right or left. Most good scopes will also allow you to adjust distance related parallax either at the side or front. Note FFP scopes windage and elevation readings in scope are accurate at all magnifications whereas with SFP scopes MOA/MIL readings are accurate at a fixed magnification.
I really appreciate the detail in this video. I have college level calculus and trigonometry training, and this video makes it super easy for me to understand. I didn't understand any of this before.
its was very helpful.. nice to watch this one.. Thanks a Lot.. 👍👍
Its very simple e.g. for mils a full circle = 2PI radians = 6.283 radians or 6283 MRAD - this is the system used for rifle scopes although for ease of use NATO uses 6400 MRAD as its standard e.g compasses (easier for people to remember with marginal loss of accuracy, well below that of a hand held sighting compas).
You made understanding scopes ALOT harder!
Alot is not a word.
If you need angular measurements, then you are moving the barrel linearly because it is straight therefore giving it the correct angle to produce an trajectory for the bullet to follow an accurate arc.another words the bullet moves in an arc and the barrel is in a straight line.
Best video on explaining the turret usage I have seen. Thank you
You were so close to that 15 min estimate 😆 🤣 😂
Thank you sir. Good job.
Most people don't say immediately drops I think it's imperative when gravity is pulling constantly I sometimes second-guess whether it was immediately dropping or not which forces me to hold off I like the fact that you mentioned that early
Density not gravity,
Thats what i wanted to verify b4 i go tryin to sight my scope in. Sum1 had mentioned it to me after i quit tryin for the day. When adjusting scope vertically, it moves reticle opposite direction. I needed to go down, so i turned it in the down direction & i couldnt even see where my bullet was hittin most the time. Time & time again, i ran into the same issue. I wasted too much ammo gettin frustrated with it. I was also pretty hangry, so i just put it away. That was a couple days ago...lol, then we were hit with more weather.
Thank you for this video it helped explain lot more than some of the others I have watched especially the 1/4 MOA click to MIL DOT ratio (no other video has given that info) cheers mate
If i'm zeroing my scope, i'm never thinking in POI, i'm thinking ret up/down, left/right etc, because i'm moving my ret to the mark, seems obvious to me... Consequently i'm constantly going the wrong way because the turrets are always opposite and it's annoying,
great video.. question, at the 18:41 video mark, when explaining bullet drop, where did you get 1000? you divided 500 by 1000, but i am just curious where the number 1000 comes from..
when you're adjusting your barrel to be in tune with the scope how do you know youre adjusting it the right way??
Great video, one Q, have a 22-250 Hornady 50gr A-Max out of a Bergara B-14/ 22" barrel, your calculations don't work out when I tried them, always have shot a Mils scope, you know the ballistics on the bullet, I know the drop and have shot it but your calculations don't jive with my dope, Can you fill me in, you said you would, or explain the formula you used please , just the simple like 300yds, and mil adjustment please, Keep more video's coming . Great job, 👍👍👍👍
Did I miss something? Watching your video and you describe differences between MOA and Mills which was pretty good, and you referenced how not to combine the two but then you use Mills to calculate for yards. Milliradians are metric, not standard. 1 mill is equal to 10cm at 100m. 1m is equal to 1.0936 yds. So while your formula is correct, your output is off due to the two systems not meshing. If you use mills, calculate in meters, and THEN convert to standard if you so choose. Don’t calculate with 1 system and the other simultaneously or else you need to plug in the formula for conversion in as well which just complicates things more. It took years for me to be able to use the two interchangeably. I suggest for new shooters to either work with one or the other. Since I prefer mills, I never use feet or yards. The only time i use standard system is on the speedometer in my car or when talking to normal people on how far something is. But when I’m on foot hiking or navigating but especially while shooting all distance is metric. Finally, I realize that .0939 is not a big difference and the effect is negligible. However, this is supposed to be about precision shooting and the calculations for precision shooting. Rounding down numbers is the anti thesis exact opposite of precision. If you’re talking about just doing some Kentucky windage and making it work. Hey more power to you I get it. But I’ve been an instructor very long time, and when I first became instructor, my instructors told me if you’re gonna teach something teach the right way at the beginning and let them screw it up down the line.
Why not a meter is the first thing I thought.
Nice, thank you
I’m a beginner, thank you! Very detailed.
Great video...awesome explanation...thankyou very much
Honestly, I find the whole concept of elevation adjustment on top and windage adjustment on the side seriously flawed. It's counter-intuitive. That's why there are so many people out there asking questions like "which way do I turn this to adjust", that's also why many scopes have the windage turret marked 1L, 2L, 1R, 2R and so on, to make it clear which way is left or right. If you think about it, the direction of the rotation of the side turret is UP or DOWN, these directions should reflect ELEVATION adjustment. But all the scopes out there make the side turret for windage, which is adjustment left or right... Similarly, the top turret rotation is LEFT or RIGHT, and it should be used for left or right adjustment (windage). But someone had a bright idea to make it the elevation turret, and now everyone is guessing if they are going up or down. This is ridiculous.
Yeah, you get used to it with time, but I always found this utterly stupid. Elevation and windage turrets should switch places.
Yep, that makes sense to me, if the elevation was on the side I’d automatically know which way was up or down or wind age in the top left or right. Who do we vote for to make this happen.
Wind is an unpredictable variable
So, I have been giving this some thought as to why the current state may be the case, because it is stupid. However, if you think about the mechanics of a scope, when you turn the turret, you are essentially turning a screw that adjusts the reticle inside. If elevation turret rotates in the horizontal (that is, LEFT-RIGHT) plane, but the screw it turns is perpendicular, or vertical, as this is the easiest for internal mechanics. Same for the windage turret, which rotates in the vertical plane (UP-DOWN), but the screw it moves is in the horizontal plane. I would imagine that switching these turrets would be much harder mechanically.
Now if you know how screws work, you can see how turning it clockwise moves the screw (and the reticle) down, from the turret towards the scope body ( think how you would turn the screwdriver when "screwing it down"), and moving the screw/reticle up would be counter-clockwise, just like when you are "unscrewing" something. Similarly, for the windage turret, when you "screw down"/clockwise, reticle moves to the left, and when you "unscrew, reticle moves to the right. For a left-handed windage, these would be opposite, but the principle of moving towards or away from scope body remains the same.
i have to take a bottle of Tylenol after watching this, sigh.. I ll watch it 10 times again before it dissolves in my brain, Thanks
Hi sir, may I know how much of Air gun..? Thank you..
Great video for those, like me, that want to comprehend the details.
So adjusting my mil after used to MOA, in correspondence to 100y 1moa movement would be 3 clicks on my .10 adjustments?
So if I’m aiming center and hitting high left I’m adjusting down and right with the arrows on turret?
Yes
@@dillionclayton2152 it’s so counterintuitive!
@@peterdarlington4117It's counterintuitive if you're concentrating on which direction your crosshairs are moving. Instead, think of it as adjusting your point of impact (POI). If your shots are landing low, you need them to land "UP".
@@EnochsRiver 👍
If they just switched the windage and elevation turrets, we wouldn't need explanation videos.
If they also switched the up/down, left/right to you moving the ret rather than the poi it would make even more sense...
Well before seeing this I could shoot ok , now I can't stay awake long enough to aim ! otherwise it is good .
I’m sorry that you got guys complaining because they don’t know how too use their head on wtf the dials do they clearly affect the impact on a up down left right bases I’ve seen kids figure it out faster than these guys
Can i have calculations for pellets airgun
Sir l have a simple discovery vt-r 4 -16×40 ao, and sometimes back water gets inside so l open up the scope and clean all water drops inside without removing the inside tube, but after l fix them back the power of the scope changes, which means starting from like 40yards power ranges its seems OK but while turning the ao from 50yards to infinity power its getting more and more blurry and its getting worse if l zoom in. Bottom line is starting from 50 to infinity l can't see a thing at all, please help!!
Clear as mud...
My Tasco Sportsman manual says "to move the bullet impact, turn the windage and/or elevation adjustments in the direction on the dials that corresponds to where the impact point falls on the target (for example, if test shots fall low, adjust elevation Down" so this means you are moving the reticle to your target, and down adjustments move the reticle down, not opposite as you are stating??????
Thats wat my understanding is. Im so lost now
you turn the turret the direction your poi needs to move to be in line with your cross hair.So if you are shooting low ,you turn your turret in the "up" direction,and if you are shooting to the right,you turn the windage turret in the left direction.
My understanding of all this is that you need to adjust your scope so that the Point of impact (POI) to directed to your initial point of aim (POA)?
So for example, if your shot falls low you need to dial the elevation turret on your scope in the direction that will increase the bullet elevation (usually ACW) so that the next shot will land higher.
Another way of looking at this example would be to say that the bullet impact needs to move upwards.
Similarly if the shot lands (POI) to the right of your POA you need to move the shot by rotating the windage turret (usually ACW) so that the next shot will land to the left.
I'm Interested to see if I have this right?
As a UK shooter we don't often get the chance to shoot beyond 300 - 500 yds and on my last experience I was puzzled as to why I my scope (Hawke Sidewinder) had to be dialed upwards (ACW) when my shot (POI) landed higher than my POA. This seemed to go against everything that I believed to be true as noted above.
Instructions unclear...shot the back glass out my truck.........
1:29 *SAY WHAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTT???*
Truth! ????
I adjust st my scope all the,way up and it's still shooting down from tge,target
Check your scope rings. They may need to be lower in order to get your max MOA adjustment to reach your point if impact.
sounds like incorrectly installed scope
1 If you all haven't seen a documentary called... it's worse than you think...by revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Jesus christ. gimme a break.