I was in the Army and we trained on simple Mil-dots with M-24 rifles. I never envisioned that reticles would be so busy that they are almost obscuring the target LOL. If I go out, a simple laser range finder is sufficient and I check my dope book for the holdover shot. Fast and easy and I can be assured my target will still be there.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing. I’m turning 60 soon, and decided to take up shooting as my new hobby and passion. I’ve been doing lots of research on scopes. I’ve pretty much decided on a Leupold scope that has the Tremor 3 reticle. Watching your video just confirmed my decision was the right one. Thanks!
I've got a mk 5 hd that fits that description, and it's good glass. A christmas tree helps a lot when you need to be able to handle targets at multiple ranges, since you can dial a solid baseline and remember the holds for the rest of the targets, and when you hold above a target, you can still hold laterally for wind, which is key.
Great video. Would have saved me time researching this for myself years ago. I find it funny though: most people's go to argument for continuing to use an MOA scope today is that 1/4 MOA is more precise than 0.1 MRAD, yet in the MOA reticle the first hold is at 2 MOA (0.6 MRAD) where the first hold for the MIL scopes (aside from the original mildot designed in the 80's) is 0.5 MRAD. I'm not actually making an argument for or against either, just pointing out that that particular argument holds no water unless the glass matches the resolution of the knobs: most important thing is that your knobs match your glass (I just learned this week that military mildot scopes on the M24 from the 1988~2014 had MOA knobs: this is heresy, it should not have happened, and I feel bad for anyone who had to live with that evil! I grew up thinking that this was just really cheap scope companies making scopes with MOA tooling because the company didn't want to invest in MRAD tooling: I had no idea Leupold was producing this insanity for our servicemen!). Unless you really love math, pick one or the other!
@@Nonedw Damn, they only had 1/2 MOA adjustments? Thats crazy that the Burris 8 point on my bargain rifle had more precise adjustment than a military scope that probably cost 10 times what the rifle and scope cost.
Thanks for that. I am building an ar10 .308 so im exploring the scope ideas. Never used one and know nothing about them. Just learned more with this one video than i thought I would. I really didnt understand what all that mess in the reticle even mean. Now I have a much better understanding. still got a ways to go but i feel better about it now. thanks again.
For me personally I use the Leupold for hunting because I won't shoot past 400 but have been using a Vortex for precision shooting at the range between 600-1000 on paper and so far I love it. Great video thank you for sharing it.
@donniemjr75 may I ask, why? If you can confidently hit paper at 1000 yards, why do you not take shots for hunting at 600 or 1000 yards like so many people do. I'm just curious.
I use the Vortex EBR-2C reticle in MOA. I feel there are so many shooters who don't utilize the full potential of the reticle. Combine that with your rifles ballistics, and it's amazing how accurate you can be. 🤘
From one vet to another vet I thank you for your service, I subbed to your channel after you explained to me about all those little lines, something I had no knowledge of on how to count them out, and their values, your explanation was easy for me to grasp, thank you again for your service
You need to begin with a definition: a mil scaled reticle is a means to measure distance to target and can also be used for a bullet drop compensation function. For ranging just multiply target size in yards times 1000 equals X and then divide X by target size in mils equals yards to target. For bullet drop compensation function just zero scope to a placeholder distsnce and then transcribe bullet drop in mils to range card from zeroed distance to greater distances off a trajectory calculation for your bullet/velocity. That’s it.
That's what I was thinking. Once the mil breakdown is explained on the first couple it doesn't need to be explained again and again - basically the whole video was one of repeating the same basic information, which becomes tedious and redundant, rather than explaining how those measurements are put to practical use.
Back when I tried to join the Marines in January of 2002, they used a fixed 10 power mildot scope and they only recommended you get a Mildot Master. I never did pay much attention to the Mildot Master until later and when I learned how to use it, I was glad that I got one. But in terms of scopes, I always stuck with the simple mildot based reticles. That's all you really need and just remember to use the entire reticle instead of just part of it and you'll be fine.
Most higher end scopes offer performance that most people never use. Most people will sight in a scope at 100 yards and hope they can hit targets further out. Its like any other tool: learn to use it or use it incorrectly.
I wouldn't say "most".. If people are interested enough in a scope to pay $2k for it... then you can bet that they're going to be interested enough to learn how to use it--- at least watch videos about it... hints why we're here. lol
@Rectify Custom Guns Over here they (Rich elite hunters) just buy what the Gunshop tells them what the best is. Then they buy the Smidt and Bender or Swarovski, zero it in at 100 meters and that is it. most have no idea of how these scopes work. it's all about status.
@@calholli Yes, of course We would think what you've stated , again, we would...it's just that the majority of ppl would rather pay to play, thinking another will do this for them, ( guide , gun shop smith, ) and believe they don't need to understand the important How to and Learning what they paid for...but again, most won't. Several are into bragging rights vs doing the work to understand how.
Guess the video description should have listed prerequisites for this class. This was like jumping into a sniper AP class without basic nomenclature studies.
Awesome breakdown.. I run a Cabela Covenant 7 5-35x56. Great scope for my 6.5 and I have another on my 7mm Remington Mag also.. Once a newbie understands these concepts, misses decrease rapidly!
Thought to my self this afternoon I'm going to learn how to use an mrad scope. This is the most informative vid I have seen, You are an absolute mine of information. Liked and subbed. Thank you .
Great video of the reticle breakdown. I too teach the breakdown of reticles for quick engagements for military and for hunting. I use Training Sights as well during my class on how to use the holdover and for correction shots.
I’m a fan of the Leupold duplex (didn’t even make the list). Where I hunt the shots are under 250 yards, most under 100, and often the deer are moving. I may only see the deer for four or five seconds. At dawn & dusk the FireDot is a huge plus.
Correction on the basic mil dot reticles. They did not come out in the early 90s. I used them on USMC sniper rifles (M40A1) going back to 1983, and I believe they had been around even earlier.
This is my first year shooting ever and I have always wanted to try and understand all these different reticles and why scopes have price differences. Now I have a better understanding. ps: for now though I will stick to MOA BDC reticles until I master them then move up. My reticles have only 3 hashmarks so easy to follow. 1.5 , 4.5 , 7.5 and 11 MOA for now :)
Great explanation...I'm going to transition from MOA to MRAD just because of the numbering convention. Also, I really appreciated the explanation of the Horus reticle. To date i favor the Nightforce reticle but with your explanation of the Horus...I may rethink this a bit more. The intent is to not use a high tech chassis firearm but use my 2012 Model 70 Super-Grade chambered in .270...should be tons of fun but also a steep learning curve. Thanks again!
In Sweden we do a lot of range estimation on the clock and 0.1 mil lines are essential to do fast accurate range estimation. I use the MSR reticle in an s&b, it is very good for this.
@@wilfdarr it's easy to see through if it's etched properly on the glass. I've never shot with that exact reticle but I have looked and tested some off hand and the first thing I did was test holdover viability. It does get messy of the target is behind mixed brush it seems though depending on zoomed power vs distance.
On my hawke scope is on 10x zoom one midot 10 cm on 100 meters. The pellet drop is 50 cm @ 100 meter on my fx wildcat , to hit the target shoot 5 mildots higher.
I think the concept is you must use an electronic distance finder on the target to determine how many lines below center to place target in, because gravity will pull the bullet down over distance. Wind will blow the bullet right or left, thus right & left lines.
I think he confused himself when he used the 1 mil right as his reference to count the sub tensions out to 3 mils right (giving him 2 mils). That aside, he did a great job and would imagine it being a very informative and useful tutorial for shooters starting out with target style rets..
Great as far as you go but how could you possibly overlook the ACSS reticle, easily the budget friendly one on the market for years, outselling Vortex, I believe?
ACSS (Advanced Combined Sighting System) is a BDC not a Milling Reticle. I know a BDC is historically referred to as a reticle, but the terms have diverged over the past decade: a BDC is not a real reticle 😉. In all seriousness, unless you get a custom printed BDC for your rifle shooting your load they're not going to be accurate. And if you decide that you're bullet wasn't performing this year and want to change it, you have to send your scope back to the manufacturer to get a new BDC printed and installed. With an MRAD or MOA, if you change your ammo you go on an app and enter that round's data, calculate a new set of comeups or holdovers, and you're ready to rock 5 minutes later. ruclips.net/video/w5nGfcW89YM/видео.html
@@wilfdarr wtf are you talking about😂 BDC reticles have been sending people 6 feet under for almost a century now. You have no clue about what you’re talking about! I am hitting 10” plates out to 700 using an ACSS and 77gr MK262 The ACSS took this years Army Marksman ship Unit comp, you should slap your self!
Don’t listen to this guy he has no clue.. the reticles in this video are for precision fire, BDC is for AR15 type fighting rifles, if you are looking for ACSS mil type reticles look the ACSS Griffin Mil for SDM and the Athena BPR mil for precision fire.
@@gunblasterr I've had amazing success with the primary arms 1x-6 LPVO on my Ruger AR 556 16" 1:8 twist. It's so damn easy to transition from 50 to 500 and everything in between. I'm not getting MOA at 100 yards, "Best 5 group has been 1.25" with Blitzking 55g match rounds and Hornady Frontier 72g BTHP" but I'm also doing this from prone and not any kind of shooting rest led slead which is more than sufficient for my needs. It's funny how some people make such wild claims with so much confidence like it's almost they believe their own bias nonsense, "not you but dude that claimed it wasn't accurate". I'm sure if I used some REAL match grade ammunition and a proper shooting rest then I could get MOA but if I can reliably hit a 12"x12" steel square at 400 yards easily with cheap brass cased pmc bronze 55g or cheap pmc 62g m855 then I'd say the reticle system is more accurate than I'll ever be.
Great Video! Thanks Billy. We are reticle with crosshair provider in China. your sharing is excellent. If any clients need reticles, contact me please.
Was wondering if you would give a review and thoughts on BDC reticles. Acss griffin and such. Didn't find a video on those. Ty. Great vid. I'm very picky on whom I subscribe to, this got my click.
the Griffin is amazing! I am running it on a short 6.5cm upper and with a 50 yard zero BDC using the first 4 mils is on with in .1-.2 mils the mil grid and tracking is right on the money
There's a lot going on there. I would like to learn more about range estimation, and subsequent adjustments to make, using either a mil or moa based scope.
I would have you consider the Burris Fullfield 2 with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle. It's a simple duplex with a couple hold over hash marks on the bottom crosshair, super simple and easy to use. These are tough and inexpensive, I've seen them on 223's to 300 win mags and they hold up well. Best of luck setting up your Ruger!
Great content - fantastic explanations! I only wish the cameraman could keep the picture in focus. I am very interested in the little lines the instructor is referring to.
@6:21 it looks like you made a mistake.. that should be 3mils in .2mil subs. I've never even used a NF scope, but I can see the tree is to aid in the windage and the marks above are saying 3 not 2 mil.
ALWAYS put a zero in front of a decimal like .2 so we don't confuse it. 0.2 is clear. .2 is less clear especially when written. There's already dots all over those diagrams.
Nice video presentation. After several scope/reticle combinations over the years, I settled on the simplicity of the Shepherd Dual Reticle System. Reticles are available in 9-inch, 18-inch, and 24-inch stadia circles. The 9-inch and 18-inch stadia circles seem tailor made for a SHTF moment, should it ever come.
Thank you, clear and useful info. I'm useing a vortex viper with the hold over hash marks, which gives me some crazy hold over distance like a fixed 374 yards at 300yds I have to gage just how much less then the hash that would be. Its like I have to use the the turret to dial up to get precission. Slow and have to count clicks and remember to reset to zero.... So my bad I bought it. Learning.
Dialing is how you get accurate shots on any scope. Especially at long range. That's the whole point of doping your rifle; knowing exactly what to expect at each range so you can dial to account for that. Keep practicing, you'll get there
I am new to this stuff. Watched few videos about reticles but couldn't get their usage clearly. Then I landed on your video and let me share my feedback. Don't just expect people watching videos will absorb the stuff. New comers may be watching these videos ... and not coming up to your expectations of prior knowledge. Same happened with me. After watching half of this video, unfortunately I couldn't get what you were saying. So, I suggest if you could explain stuff expecting viewers as laymen. This will benefit your viewers a lot
I think I understand what you are talking about, bit have no clue what any of this means in the realm of actually shooting. I did a lot of shooting in the USCG from 1963 until I retired in 1989. I have never used a scope in the military and when hunting I always used open sights, and did well like that, Ron USCG MKC RET
And with all of that great information what I took away was you need to be able to count to 5 or 10 in a dozen different ways and still no explanation on how to put any of this to everyday use . One dot ,two dot is my target 6 foot tall at 100 yards or 6 inches tall . You could do land survey with the detail in these scopes most of us just need to know where to hold on a target 100,200 or 300 yards and how to tell if we are aiming at 100,200 or 300 yards !
video is to explain the designs not teach you how to use it.. i doubt your hunting deer with a DMR at 1200+yards with 3 crosswinds while it runs at 20mph and your shooting from a +200ft elevation so you are watching the wrong video.
It's nice to have some minor additional data for traveling windage too, "hunting, self defense purposes". I like to have a 3mph and an 8mph lead picture with my scopes and it never gets in the way.
Doesnt mean shit if the gun can't pull decent groups lol Guns can only ever be "so" accurate Ive had 5 shot groups pulling into 0.18 moa at 100metres then at 300 that same loads spreading em out to 5 moa Then loads shoot rubbish at 100m then at longer ranges pull in better. At the end of the day theres a cone of accuracy and its never gonna be perfect. But it should get you there because we are shooting at minute of human lol
When explaining the Mil dot, Would going from the top of dot 1 (.2MM) 1MM spacing to the bottom of dot 2 (.2MM) not be 1.4mm? From bottom to bottom would be 1.2 which is why you have to measure center to center as stated? or did i mis understand something here?
Center of dot to center of dot is 1 mil. Edge of dot to edge of dot is 1 mil. Dot is .2. Bar is .1 usually. Its actually about one of the best learning methods
1.4 my first thought too. However, if middle to middle is 1 mil, then bottom to bottom would be 1 mil as well. Add in .2 for top to bottom and you have the 1.2. Your only adding 1 mil per dot when moving from the middle to the top or bottom.
With the modest amount of research I’ve done the mil system seems better than moa. Should I set my rangefinder for meters and think of targets and wind in metric units also?
Good understandable content. I'm a dialer with a couple moa scopes. The mrad is clearly faster.I'm converting too an mrad and gonna start learning holder overs . Thanks 👍
@6:40 i think its 3 mil to the right not 2 mil or maybe im not understanding it correctly. From the red vertical line to the number 1 mark to the right should be 3 mil
I saw a hunting scope that kinda looked like the EBR-4 MOA, but it had different circles that got smaller and smaller in a rifleman mag. They advertised that at 100 yards you lined up the game to fill whatever circle and it was on. Anyone remember the type of scope that was?
I was in the Army and we trained on simple Mil-dots with M-24 rifles. I never envisioned that reticles would be so busy that they are almost obscuring the target LOL. If I go out, a simple laser range finder is sufficient and I check my dope book for the holdover shot. Fast and easy and I can be assured my target will still be there.
One of the best videos on reticle explanation I’ve seen. Thank you for your service and for sharing your knowledge. EXCELLENT!
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing. I’m turning 60 soon, and decided to take up shooting as my new hobby and passion. I’ve been doing lots of research on scopes. I’ve pretty much decided on a Leupold scope that has the Tremor 3 reticle. Watching your video just confirmed my decision was the right one. Thanks!
I've got a mk 5 hd that fits that description, and it's good glass. A christmas tree helps a lot when you need to be able to handle targets at multiple ranges, since you can dial a solid baseline and remember the holds for the rest of the targets, and when you hold above a target, you can still hold laterally for wind, which is key.
Great video. Would have saved me time researching this for myself years ago.
I find it funny though: most people's go to argument for continuing to use an MOA scope today is that 1/4 MOA is more precise than 0.1 MRAD, yet in the MOA reticle the first hold is at 2 MOA (0.6 MRAD) where the first hold for the MIL scopes (aside from the original mildot designed in the 80's) is 0.5 MRAD.
I'm not actually making an argument for or against either, just pointing out that that particular argument holds no water unless the glass matches the resolution of the knobs: most important thing is that your knobs match your glass (I just learned this week that military mildot scopes on the M24 from the 1988~2014 had MOA knobs: this is heresy, it should not have happened, and I feel bad for anyone who had to live with that evil! I grew up thinking that this was just really cheap scope companies making scopes with MOA tooling because the company didn't want to invest in MRAD tooling: I had no idea Leupold was producing this insanity for our servicemen!). Unless you really love math, pick one or the other!
I had that scope. MRAD for reticle... MOA for dial...1/2 MOA clicks. BS is what the ARMY asked for
Yes I heard the same thing MOA knobs and MOA reticle or MRAD knobs and MRAD reticle !
DO NOT MIX !
@@Nonedw Damn, they only had 1/2 MOA adjustments? Thats crazy that the Burris 8 point on my bargain rifle had more precise adjustment than a military scope that probably cost 10 times what the rifle and scope cost.
Thanks for that. I am building an ar10 .308 so im exploring the scope ideas. Never used one and know nothing about them. Just learned more with this one video than i thought I would. I really didnt understand what all that mess in the reticle even mean. Now I have a much better understanding. still got a ways to go but i feel better about it now. thanks again.
I’m in the same boat as you. It’s a big learning curve before buying.
I'm fairly certain that an AR15 in 308 is an AR10
For me personally I use the Leupold for hunting because I won't shoot past 400 but have been using a Vortex for precision shooting at the range between 600-1000 on paper and so far I love it. Great video thank you for sharing it.
@donniemjr75 may I ask, why?
If you can confidently hit paper at 1000 yards, why do you not take shots for hunting at 600 or 1000 yards like so many people do. I'm just curious.
I use the Vortex EBR-2C reticle in MOA. I feel there are so many shooters who don't utilize the full potential of the reticle. Combine that with your rifles ballistics, and it's amazing how accurate you can be. 🤘
PST Viper 5-25x?
From one vet to another vet I thank you for your service, I subbed to your channel after you explained to me about all those little lines, something I had no knowledge of on how to count them out, and their values, your explanation was easy for me to grasp, thank you again for your service
You need to begin with a definition: a mil scaled reticle is a means to measure distance to target and can also be used for a bullet drop compensation function. For ranging just multiply target size in yards times 1000 equals X and then divide X by target size in mils equals yards to target. For bullet drop compensation function just zero scope to a placeholder distsnce and then transcribe bullet drop in mils to range card from zeroed distance to greater distances off a trajectory calculation for your bullet/velocity. That’s it.
That's what I was thinking. Once the mil breakdown is explained on the first couple it doesn't need to be explained again and again - basically the whole video was one of repeating the same basic information, which becomes tedious and redundant, rather than explaining how those measurements are put to practical use.
The same can be done with MOA reticles, though the formula is a little different.
On the Nightforce Mil-XT reticle, the first mil dot below the horizontal center is 3 mils wide from the vertical center, not 2 mils as you stated.
Exactly, I caught this as soon as he said it! Even above his finger saying 3mils
Phew - glad you commented that ... I thought I'd missed something critical - it didn't make sense for that to be 2 mil. Thanks.
bro i got so thrown off when i seen that as well.. i was like. i missed something here... lemme see if anyone else caught it or im retarded lol
Ok..just posted also. Thought maybe I was missing something. 😂
The exemption defines the rule, is a dutch saying, it it english too?
Thank You so much Tactical Hyve for your teachings and sharing your knowledge to the masses.
You're welcome!
Back when I tried to join the Marines in January of 2002, they used a fixed 10 power mildot scope and they only recommended you get a Mildot Master. I never did pay much attention to the Mildot Master until later and when I learned how to use it, I was glad that I got one. But in terms of scopes, I always stuck with the simple mildot based reticles. That's all you really need and just remember to use the entire reticle instead of just part of it and you'll be fine.
Mr. Billy Leahy is very good instructor is very clear and easy to understand.
Most higher end scopes offer performance that most people never use. Most people will sight in a scope at 100 yards and hope they can hit targets further out. Its like any other tool: learn to use it or use it incorrectly.
I wouldn't say "most".. If people are interested enough in a scope to pay $2k for it... then you can bet that they're going to be interested enough to learn how to use it--- at least watch videos about it... hints why we're here. lol
Speak for yourself
@@calholli I'm here to play a video game better lol. I can have any scope for free xD
@Rectify Custom Guns Over here they (Rich elite hunters) just buy what the Gunshop tells them what the best is. Then they buy the Smidt and Bender or Swarovski, zero it in at 100 meters and that is it. most have no idea of how these scopes work. it's all about status.
@@calholli Yes, of course We would think what you've stated , again, we would...it's just that the majority of ppl would rather pay to play, thinking another will do this for them, ( guide , gun shop smith, ) and believe they don't need to understand the important How to and Learning what they paid for...but again, most won't. Several are into bragging rights vs doing the work to understand how.
Guess the video description should have listed prerequisites for this class. This was like jumping into a sniper AP class without basic nomenclature studies.
Awesome breakdown.. I run a Cabela Covenant 7 5-35x56. Great scope for my 6.5 and I have another on my 7mm Remington Mag also.. Once a newbie understands these concepts, misses decrease rapidly!
Glad it helped!
On the Nightforge MIL-XT, you had 3 MIL broken down into .2 sub ten, not 2 MIL.
I knew someone would have already fund out, saved me typing LOL
Saw that too. had to check the comments to make sure I wasn't tripping.
Thought to my self this afternoon I'm going to learn how to use an mrad scope.
This is the most informative vid I have seen,
You are an absolute mine of information.
Liked and subbed.
Thank you .
Great video of the reticle breakdown. I too teach the breakdown of reticles for quick engagements for military and for hunting. I use Training Sights as well during my class on how to use the holdover and for correction shots.
Thanks!
This is amazing, very professional and natural explanations. Thanks heaps really appreciate to info
You're very welcome!
I would have liked to seen some range calculation examples using the mils/different reticles.
Me being a novice i learned a ton. Thanks for the video and thanks for your service
Really great presentation and explanation. Loved the Horus reticle with the speed calibration. Cheer.
I’m a fan of the Leupold duplex (didn’t even make the list). Where I hunt the shots are under 250 yards, most under 100, and often the deer are moving. I may only see the deer for four or five seconds. At dawn & dusk the FireDot is a huge plus.
Great video, I personally only use iron sights and my freezer is always full, old school, nice and simple
Boringgggg
Great video brother, I keep coming for a refresher lol
Correction on the basic mil dot reticles. They did not come out in the early 90s. I used them on USMC sniper rifles (M40A1) going back to 1983, and I believe they had been around even earlier.
Were you adjusting moa or mil?
How far off would yo be using mil measures on a moa scope and moa measures on a mil scope?
9.3.2024
The Unertl?
@rontate7719 that was an early leupold scope problem
This is my first year shooting ever and I have always wanted to try and understand all these different reticles and why scopes have price differences.
Now I have a better understanding.
ps: for now though I will stick to MOA BDC reticles until I master them then move up. My reticles have only 3 hashmarks so easy to follow. 1.5 , 4.5 , 7.5 and 11 MOA for now :)
Great explanation...I'm going to transition from MOA to MRAD just because of the numbering convention. Also, I really appreciated the explanation of the Horus reticle. To date i favor the Nightforce reticle but with your explanation of the Horus...I may rethink this a bit more.
The intent is to not use a high tech chassis firearm but use my 2012 Model 70 Super-Grade chambered in .270...should be tons of fun but also a steep learning curve.
Thanks again!
Glad I found you or this video it will surely make it easier to explain all this to my grandsons. I have several of these reticles.... Thanks
As someone new to scopes, this is clear as mud.
Such awesome, concise information. I finally understand this stuff!
Glad you enjoyed it!
In Sweden we do a lot of range estimation on the clock and 0.1 mil lines are essential to do fast accurate range estimation. I use the MSR reticle in an s&b, it is very good for this.
I could see that, especially on a spotting scope, but I feel like that stuff would get in the way when shooting holdover no?
@@wilfdarr it's easy to see through if it's etched properly on the glass. I've never shot with that exact reticle but I have looked and tested some off hand and the first thing I did was test holdover viability. It does get messy of the target is behind mixed brush it seems though depending on zoomed power vs distance.
On my hawke scope is on 10x zoom one midot 10 cm on 100 meters.
The pellet drop is 50 cm @ 100 meter on my fx wildcat , to hit the target shoot 5 mildots higher.
I think the concept is you must use an electronic distance finder on the target to determine how many lines below center to place target in, because gravity will pull the bullet down over distance. Wind will blow the bullet right or left, thus right & left lines.
super refined Kentucky windage.... great video
Athena BPR mil is the best precision reticle I have ever used and have used just about everything out
It's easily number one, outside of the Tremor 3/5. Nothing compares to the Tremor 3 though.
That was the best spent 24 minutes of my life. Thank you.
MILs is great but feel a great number of people use MOA scopes such as myself - would love to see a MOA vid too. Cheers
He did.. you didn't watch it.
@@calholli I think because it was DOMINATED by MILS on this video and there are so many BETTER MOA scopes out there
18:47 MOA starts.
2 kinds of people in this world... those who shoot mrad and those who will shoot mrad
Moa is cool.. Because sub- moa means your a baby sniper
As long as you understand your reticles readout you should be able to use it as stadiametric range-finder wether moa or mrad/mildot
Thanks for the video.
Always a blessing sharpening my skills.
Best to ya my friend.
On the Mil XT isn't it 3 mils R/L off center?
That's what I was thinking too.
There are three. He was just explaining the example he drew on the board.
@@TacticalHyve No, he was wrong. He even spanned the three mils with the marker saying it was two. It's ok. It happens.
I think he confused himself when he used the 1 mil right as his reference to count the sub tensions out to 3 mils right (giving him 2 mils). That aside, he did a great job and would imagine it being a very informative and useful tutorial for shooters starting out with target style rets..
Thanks for this practical review! I can see you invested a lot of time in it.
Thanks for watching!
Great as far as you go but how could you possibly overlook the ACSS reticle, easily the budget friendly one on the market for years, outselling Vortex, I believe?
ACSS (Advanced Combined Sighting System) is a BDC not a Milling Reticle. I know a BDC is historically referred to as a reticle, but the terms have diverged over the past decade: a BDC is not a real reticle 😉.
In all seriousness, unless you get a custom printed BDC for your rifle shooting your load they're not going to be accurate. And if you decide that you're bullet wasn't performing this year and want to change it, you have to send your scope back to the manufacturer to get a new BDC printed and installed. With an MRAD or MOA, if you change your ammo you go on an app and enter that round's data, calculate a new set of comeups or holdovers, and you're ready to rock 5 minutes later.
ruclips.net/video/w5nGfcW89YM/видео.html
@@wilfdarr wtf are you talking about😂 BDC reticles have been sending people 6 feet under for almost a century now. You have no clue about what you’re talking about! I am hitting 10” plates out to 700 using an ACSS and 77gr MK262 The ACSS took this years Army Marksman ship Unit comp, you should slap your self!
Don’t listen to this guy he has no clue.. the reticles in this video are for precision fire, BDC is for AR15 type fighting rifles, if you are looking for ACSS mil type reticles look the ACSS Griffin Mil for SDM and the Athena BPR mil for precision fire.
@@gunblasterr I've had amazing success with the primary arms 1x-6 LPVO on my Ruger AR 556 16" 1:8 twist. It's so damn easy to transition from 50 to 500 and everything in between. I'm not getting MOA at 100 yards, "Best 5 group has been 1.25" with Blitzking 55g match rounds and Hornady Frontier 72g BTHP" but I'm also doing this from prone and not any kind of shooting rest led slead which is more than sufficient for my needs. It's funny how some people make such wild claims with so much confidence like it's almost they believe their own bias nonsense, "not you but dude that claimed it wasn't accurate". I'm sure if I used some REAL match grade ammunition and a proper shooting rest then I could get MOA but if I can reliably hit a 12"x12" steel square at 400 yards easily with cheap brass cased pmc bronze 55g or cheap pmc 62g m855 then I'd say the reticle system is more accurate than I'll ever be.
Great Video! Thanks Billy. We are reticle with crosshair provider in China. your sharing is excellent. If any clients need reticles, contact me please.
Was wondering if you would give a review and thoughts on BDC reticles. Acss griffin and such. Didn't find a video on those. Ty. Great vid. I'm very picky on whom I subscribe to, this got my click.
the Griffin is amazing! I am running it on a short 6.5cm upper and with a 50 yard zero BDC using the first 4 mils is on with in .1-.2 mils the mil grid and tracking is right on the money
Thanks… from a beginner that has a few scopes that are mil. Mia… you have game SIR !!!
They all sounded so similar.
What do the mil marks convert to at distance?
1 mil is 10 cm @ 100 m, or about 4 inches.
Check out the Nightforce Mil-XT, He marked it as 2ml but it is actually 3ml. Right of the center
I still like a standard mil for sure it’s not as accurate as my g2dmr or even my milGap ret but I just love it’s simplicity
Great video but I still need to find one dumbs in down ever more. I dont under MRAD, MOA, mil, wind angle.
Very helpful and great breakdown of the types of reticles out there today
There's a lot going on there. I would like to learn more about range estimation, and subsequent adjustments to make, using either a mil or moa based scope.
I’m not here to be an armchair quarterback.
I just want to complement you on a very well executed block of instruction.
I started watching this video to help pick a scope for my 77/22 ruger for squirrel hunting. Wow did I end up in the wrong place 😩
I would have you consider the Burris Fullfield 2 with the "Ballistic Plex" reticle.
It's a simple duplex with a couple hold over hash marks on the bottom crosshair, super simple and easy to use.
These are tough and inexpensive, I've seen them on 223's to 300 win mags and they hold up well.
Best of luck setting up your Ruger!
Great content - fantastic explanations! I only wish the cameraman could keep the picture in focus. I am very interested in the little lines the instructor is referring to.
@6:21 it looks like you made a mistake.. that should be 3mils in .2mil subs. I've never even used a NF scope, but I can see the tree is to aid in the windage and the marks above are saying 3 not 2 mil.
ALWAYS put a zero in front of a decimal like .2 so we don't confuse it. 0.2 is clear. .2 is less clear especially when written. There's already dots all over those diagrams.
Nice video presentation. After several scope/reticle combinations over the years, I settled on the simplicity of the Shepherd Dual Reticle System. Reticles are available in 9-inch, 18-inch, and 24-inch stadia circles. The 9-inch and 18-inch stadia circles seem tailor made for a SHTF moment, should it ever come.
Guessing your a Marine veteran. If so does the Corps teach mils or yards using their ACOG scopes?
Thank you, clear and useful info.
I'm useing a vortex viper with the hold over hash marks, which gives me some crazy hold over distance like a fixed 374 yards at 300yds I have to gage just how much less then the hash that would be.
Its like I have to use the the turret to dial up to get precission. Slow and have to count clicks and remember to reset to zero....
So my bad I bought it. Learning.
Dialing is how you get accurate shots on any scope. Especially at long range. That's the whole point of doping your rifle; knowing exactly what to expect at each range so you can dial to account for that. Keep practicing, you'll get there
Great breakdown easy to understand. Taking a LR class from you guys is definitely in my future.
Hope to see you at one!
Thanks so much. New to scopes and now I understand!
Welcome!
This video explained a lot. Very helpful.
I am new to this stuff. Watched few videos about reticles but couldn't get their usage clearly. Then I landed on your video and let me share my feedback. Don't just expect people watching videos will absorb the stuff. New comers may be watching these videos ... and not coming up to your expectations of prior knowledge. Same happened with me. After watching half of this video, unfortunately I couldn't get what you were saying. So, I suggest if you could explain stuff expecting viewers as laymen. This will benefit your viewers a lot
Great video. Can you possibly cover the new Eotech SR-4 reticle? Thanks!
Thank you.
I'm learning about distance shooting, and this explains WTF is all that nonsense going on in my scope!
LoL!
What are the functions of those gradation???? The accompanying leaflets or brochures to the scopes would explain the technical details which he gave!
I think I understand what you are talking about, bit have no clue what any of this means in the realm of actually shooting. I did a lot of shooting in the USCG from 1963 until I retired in 1989. I have never used a scope in the military and when hunting I always used open sights, and did well like that, Ron USCG MKC RET
During this video I at least twice tried to find parallax knob.
And with all of that great information what I took away was you need to be able to count to 5 or 10 in a dozen different ways and still no explanation on how to put any of this to everyday use . One dot ,two dot is my target 6 foot tall at 100 yards or 6 inches tall . You could do land survey with the detail in these scopes most of us just need to know where to hold on a target 100,200 or 300 yards and how to tell if we are aiming at 100,200 or 300 yards !
video is to explain the designs not teach you how to use it.. i doubt your hunting deer with a DMR at 1200+yards with 3 crosswinds while it runs at 20mph and your shooting from a +200ft elevation so you are watching the wrong video.
It's nice to have some minor additional data for traveling windage too, "hunting, self defense purposes". I like to have a 3mph and an 8mph lead picture with my scopes and it never gets in the way.
On the Mil-Xt..am I missing something. When you dropped to the 1mil down in tree..isnt that 3mil to right..not 2mil?
Excellent vid overview! BTW, there is no 'LEO' in Leupold
I watch this video to go to sleep. lol
I appreciate the knowledge sir.
When you say the gap from one dot to another is 2 mil what does that mean?
Mil reticle and MOA dials. Hold for movers with wind on dial from MOA wind constant formula.
Tremor3 in the hands of a well trained shooter must be unreal accurate.
Doesnt mean shit if the gun can't pull decent groups lol
Guns can only ever be "so" accurate
Ive had 5 shot groups pulling into 0.18 moa at 100metres then at 300 that same loads spreading em out to 5 moa
Then loads shoot rubbish at 100m then at longer ranges pull in better.
At the end of the day theres a cone of accuracy and its never gonna be perfect.
But it should get you there because we are shooting at minute of human lol
Good Job Billy Bob!!!
Great information Billy 👍
At 6:20 from center vertical out to the edge there is 3 mil and not 2 mil as there are 15 dots in total and each is 0.2.
Super presentation! Dude knows his shit.
Thank you for the knowledge dump !!
SFMF
6:00 isn't that 3 MIL on the horizontal marks?
Great video! Great information!
I already knew all of this... It was nice from the beginning to the end anyway!
When explaining the Mil dot, Would going from the top of dot 1 (.2MM) 1MM spacing to the bottom of dot 2 (.2MM) not be 1.4mm? From bottom to bottom would be 1.2 which is why you have to measure center to center as stated? or did i mis understand something here?
Center of dot to center of dot is 1 mil. Edge of dot to edge of dot is 1 mil. Dot is .2. Bar is .1 usually. Its actually about one of the best learning methods
1.4 my first thought too. However, if middle to middle is 1 mil, then bottom to bottom would be 1 mil as well. Add in .2 for top to bottom and you have the 1.2. Your only adding 1 mil per dot when moving from the middle to the top or bottom.
*.1 mil per dot when moving from the middle to the top or bottom.*
Great video! Thank you!
Awesome video and I'm super beginner here. But what is a mil?
Where do you teach or have classes for shooting?
Great explanation of reticles thanks
With the modest amount of research I’ve done the mil system seems better than moa. Should I set my rangefinder for meters and think of targets and wind in metric units also?
I like the ACSS HUD reticle myself. The fact that you don't have any ACSS reticles at all hurts my feelings. lol
Awsome presentation 🔫
Love the TMR
Good understandable content. I'm a dialer with a couple moa scopes. The mrad is clearly faster.I'm converting too an mrad and gonna start learning holder overs . Thanks 👍
@6:40 i think its 3 mil to the right not 2 mil or maybe im not understanding it correctly. From the red vertical line to the number 1 mark to the right should be 3 mil
Great Job Brother -
RLTW
excellent information, thanks
I'll admit I'm asking before watching this, but what is the best reticle for hunting and why? Thanks in advance.
I saw a hunting scope that kinda looked like the EBR-4 MOA, but it had different circles that got smaller and smaller in a rifleman mag. They advertised that at 100 yards you lined up the game to fill whatever circle and it was on. Anyone remember the type of scope that was?
Great presentation