It's exactly that i looked for before I dare to try to open my post. it is many instructions in internet for bottom actuator, but not for this one! Thanks!!!
Great vid! I have a new TranzX Kitsuma so didn't need to service but wanted to see if I could disassemble and reassemble it with the cable route on the back right instead of front left - it works! I'd seen loads of vids on the BrandX Ascend 1 but it's pretty different. Yours is the only one I've found on the the Ascend 2/Kitsuma. Thanks!
Fantastic video 👍 brilliantly explained and helped me fix my dropper. You deserve way more views. My dropper wasn't working so I opened it up with the help of your video and I found the nylon string had snapped, an easy fix and it's working great. Thank you!!
Started good but you missed a couple of things: 1. dont use so much grease ! 2. use special grease like sram butter (i've used all purpose grease and dropper got stuck under 0°C) 3. most important thing is to also remove the part with the seals to clean the rubber and put some grease on there. if a dropper gets stuck not because of too low pressure it's mostly because there is too much friction caused by the seals 4. you probably could have avoided 90% of the process by just putting some fork oil (or chain oil) on the seal and move the dropper up and down a dozen of times. that's how you can get the dirt out of the seals and also "relube" the seals to lower the friction if the dropper is just showing little signs of misbehaviour 5. if you have to replace the "trigger string" just get some kevlar or aramid rope around 1mm diameter
The PNW Cascade is nearly identical to this, and in their maintenance video they do not show removing the part with the seal, but I agree that it seems to be a wise move.
PNW has a video showing how to maintain their Coast Suspension post and they use Phil Wood waterproof grease so I would argue that a special grease is not required. However your point about too much is a good one.
good tip with the SRAM butter, my nylon trigger string snapped near the cable cage, but I could shimmy the string by recrimping each side (there was enough excess string) - happy with that, pretty fiddly repair but it's working like butter now! Cheers @GsBikeShop for the great vid, and YourDudeness for the mention of SRAM butter. Better than out of box I think.
TOP TIP, if you couple this type of dropper up to a Shimano GRX brake/dropper lever, use a inline barrel adjuster to save yourself a ‘tension adjustment’ headache 👍
Hi, thanks for making this tutorial. However, I followed it to the T and now my dropper doesn't drop all the way down. It seems to encounter a bump at the last 25mm of travel. May I know why and how to fix it? Thanks
Does yours have a little bit of twisting play at the stanchions? I notice mine has it and was wondering if this is normal. If not, they I'll disassemble and check mine as well.
Thanks for the video. I fell off the bike and twisted the saddle which broke the string. So now I'm going to dis assemble, service and re assemble - but what is that string?? Looks like 1.5mm dyneema. Or is it braided fishing line?
Hey, I just bought this exact dropper post and I was wondering, whether it is possible to turn the part for the external cable connection about 90 degrees to the back.
You probably can. Theres four key ways in the outside post so you just have to make sure to align it appropriately that the string doesn't get stuck on anything
I’ve been using an off brand grease as well and have had no issues so far. I would say that would be a good replacement grease just make sure to use enough. Hope that helps 🤙
Hi I'm after some advice on which dropper post sizing to get either the 125mm or the 150mm dropper post I'm 5ft8 and I measured the current post of mine at my height at 160mm for my perfered height for the bike which size would you recommend many thanks
Personally I would go with the dropper with the most travel. Having the seat as much out of the way when descending or jumping would be ideal. Hope that helps 🤙
Unfortunately this won’t fix the rotational play. As far a I know the play that this dropper post has is normal so it won’t affect the functionality but it is a little annoying. Hope that helps 🤙
Hey, yes it’s makes it easier to work with when the seat post is fully extended before taking it apart. Make sure that string has a clear path from top to bottom. You’ll notice when you take it apart that there is a channel that the string follows. If the string is slow to return there could be some debris preventing it to move smoothly. Hope that helps 🤙
I just bought one of these and it’s so slow to accurate right out of the box. I can’t imagine it would be dirty grease and such. I did open up the bottom and noticed the string isn’t tight. So hopefully that’s the only problem. Any one else have an issue with this post right out of the box?
Thanks for this video! I just followed it step by step and gave mine a service. Smooth as butter now!
Thanks man I really appreciated this video. My dropper is working really nice :)
It's exactly that i looked for before I dare to try to open my post.
it is many instructions in internet for bottom actuator, but not for this one!
Thanks!!!
Glad this video helped, good luck 🤙
Excellent service guide. you did a great job showing every procedure and part. well explained.👌
Excellent video. These are the best value droppers and take a beating.
Great vid! I have a new TranzX Kitsuma so didn't need to service but wanted to see if I could disassemble and reassemble it with the cable route on the back right instead of front left - it works! I'd seen loads of vids on the BrandX Ascend 1 but it's pretty different. Yours is the only one I've found on the the Ascend 2/Kitsuma. Thanks!
Fantastic video 👍 brilliantly explained and helped me fix my dropper. You deserve way more views. My dropper wasn't working so I opened it up with the help of your video and I found the nylon string had snapped, an easy fix and it's working great. Thank you!!
You’re welcome and thanks! Glad this video helped you 🤙
What did you replace the nylon thread with?
@@dmjm you can buy service kits online that come with the nylon string
@@thomassearchfield5803 thanks! I ended up using some nylon blind cord that i had in the garage. Seems to work.
Thanks for the video! I had a strange issue, a seal popped out of place, and the only way to put it back was a whole rebuild and it worked!
You’re welcome. Glad the video helped 🤙
Same thing has happened to me
Thanks for the video, it was really good. I have a TranzX and it is completely 100% made in the same way. 😀 and it's works fin again.
Thanks man. Glad the video helped you out 🤙
Started good but you missed a couple of things:
1. dont use so much grease !
2. use special grease like sram butter (i've used all purpose grease and dropper got stuck under 0°C)
3. most important thing is to also remove the part with the seals to clean the rubber and put some grease on there. if a dropper gets stuck not because of too low pressure it's mostly because there is too much friction caused by the seals
4. you probably could have avoided 90% of the process by just putting some fork oil (or chain oil) on the seal and move the dropper up and down a dozen of times. that's how you can get the dirt out of the seals and also "relube" the seals to lower the friction if the dropper is just showing little signs of misbehaviour
5. if you have to replace the "trigger string" just get some kevlar or aramid rope around 1mm diameter
Wow still a lot to learn 😁 thanks for the info dude much appreciated 🤙
The PNW Cascade is nearly identical to this, and in their maintenance video they do not show removing the part with the seal, but I agree that it seems to be a wise move.
Use only siliconic vaseline for forks on the dropper. Normal vaseline does too much friction.
PNW has a video showing how to maintain their Coast Suspension post and they use Phil Wood waterproof grease so I would argue that a special grease is not required. However your point about too much is a good one.
good tip with the SRAM butter, my nylon trigger string snapped near the cable cage, but I could shimmy the string by recrimping each side (there was enough excess string) - happy with that, pretty fiddly repair but it's working like butter now! Cheers @GsBikeShop for the great vid, and YourDudeness for the mention of SRAM butter. Better than out of box I think.
TOP TIP,
if you couple this type of dropper up to a Shimano GRX brake/dropper lever, use a inline barrel adjuster to save yourself a ‘tension adjustment’ headache 👍
Thanks for the tip 🤙
Great video and great dropper post. What sort of grease did you use? I have to replace the keys etc and was going to use slick honey.
Thanks for this video. I have the same post . But unfortunately it's now stucked with the seat tube ( steel frame) 😪
Hi, thanks for making this tutorial.
However, I followed it to the T and now my dropper doesn't drop all the way down. It seems to encounter a bump at the last 25mm of travel. May I know why and how to fix it? Thanks
Does yours have a little bit of twisting play at the stanchions? I notice mine has it and was wondering if this is normal. If not, they I'll disassemble and check mine as well.
Thanks for the video. I fell off the bike and twisted the saddle which broke the string. So now I'm going to dis assemble, service and re assemble - but what is that string?? Looks like 1.5mm dyneema. Or is it braided fishing line?
Thank you
A piece of fucking string?
If I'd known that I'd have fitted the internal cable dropper and got the drill out.
I put mine together and it’s sticky, the post activates but sometimes it goes down by a bit and then it might or might not go back up? Help?
I put a lot of chain lube at the top above the slider mechanism, there's a hole filled it with lube, to solve a sticky seat post. Easy.
My dropper post is not going
fully down what do i do?
Hey, I just bought this exact dropper post and I was wondering, whether it is possible to turn the part for the external cable connection about 90 degrees to the back.
I am wondering this exact point. Mine fouls on the frame and would like to twist it to the side. Did you have any lucking finding an answer?
You probably can. Theres four key ways in the outside post so you just have to make sure to align it appropriately that the string doesn't get stuck on anything
Can I replace its original white grease with Slickoleum? It's a relacement for Sram's fork grease.
I’ve been using an off brand grease as well and have had no issues so far. I would say that would be a good replacement grease just make sure to use enough. Hope that helps 🤙
@@GsBikeShop Thx brother. Just finished. Runs even smoother than out of the box.
Is it reliable? I used mine less than 10 times before it broke
Hi I'm after some advice on which dropper post sizing to get either the 125mm or the 150mm dropper post I'm 5ft8 and I measured the current post of mine at my height at 160mm for my perfered height for the bike which size would you recommend many thanks
Personally I would go with the dropper with the most travel. Having the seat as much out of the way when descending or jumping would be ideal. Hope that helps 🤙
Will this fix rotational play in the stanchion on the post?
Unfortunately this won’t fix the rotational play. As far a I know the play that this dropper post has is normal so it won’t affect the functionality but it is a little annoying. Hope that helps 🤙
@@GsBikeShop oh right thanks
hi, do you leave the post fully extended when you take it apart? also how do you fix when the string inside the dropper is slow to return? thanks
Hey, yes it’s makes it easier to work with when the seat post is fully extended before taking it apart. Make sure that string has a clear path from top to bottom. You’ll notice when you take it apart that there is a channel that the string follows. If the string is slow to return there could be some debris preventing it to move smoothly. Hope that helps 🤙
@@GsBikeShop i took it apart once already to try and fix the slow return and it didnt change anything? Could i be doing something wrong?
Oh I see, you may just need to tighten the tension of the string where it connects at the bottom of the post.
@@GsBikeShop do you do this post fully extended?
Yes, make sure it’s fully extended
I just bought one of these and it’s so slow to accurate right out of the box. I can’t imagine it would be dirty grease and such. I did open up the bottom and noticed the string isn’t tight. So hopefully that’s the only problem. Any one else have an issue with this post right out of the box?
As far as I know the tightening the string should help with speed and responsiveness.
@@GsBikeShop I went in and tightened the string. And that did the trick!!!
Awesome!! 🤙
Remove burrs inside of bicycle frame seat tube.