The hole that you cut in the diverter is part of the precleaner. It is supposed to get the air swirling and the centrifugal force cause the dirt to separate. What will happen with your setup is that you will get a hole in the filter element over time, because you will sand blast it with dirt and moisture. Also, the fording hummer bypasses the drop box by adding a rubber elbow inside. Your hummer is not made for fording.
Great points you make yes I seen the elbow fording kit for sale My air intake is basically hood height ( no I do not ford water with it I use it on a cattle ranch and I try to stay out of the mud as much as possible) should I extend that up higher or does it not make any difference? not sure if a 4" rubber hose would be the right fit I seen some of those for sale on ebay.
So maybe you should have looked at the h1 a little bit before doing all this. In the h1 there is no deflector in the snorkel box, it has a 90deg. Silicon elbow. And they have a k&n style air filter. They did all of that so the dmax could flow the proper amount of air.
Matt, Matt, Matt... You can't do this to your beloved HMMWV... ... 'cause... um... Yeah... I got nothin'. Carry on! Looks like it is going to be badass, btw. :)
At the end we haven't heard how much improvement it made to the engine performance- the design is to create swirling vortices to separate heavy particles which isn't as efficient as straight through flow. I also met a guy two years ago that had changed his HMMMWV's radiator to an Aluminum one saying it is the best cooled HMMWWV in the USA> then what? what is the practical gain?
Did I hear you correctly (if not I completely wasted a lot of time here lol).....you put in a V8 LS gas engine in there? I'll say this as nice as possible with regards to you saying that there wasn't a very noticeable power difference.....Do you understand how gas and diesel engines are different from each other and how the application of any engine is of utmost importance to understand? For starters, HMMWv's weigh over 5,500 lbs (depending on the variant you have). Lecture time: You need something with high torque, because torque is the actual force that gets a vehicle moving forward. Horsepower is how "fast" that work is done. This is where "application" comes in....when I was a teen till my mid 20's, I was really into trucks. At some point 2 wheel drives and other times 4x4's. My last truck was a 70 Chevy and I put a Mark-5 (I think '94) 454 big block in it with a turbo 400 transmission. Obviously I was looking to go fast, but what I soon learned was that no matter what I did, a car was going to be faster (for many reasons). Trying to make a truck go extra fast turned out to be a retarded thing to try to do. So then I got into cars and not too long later, Audi's (which I still have 1 now). My point to all of this is "are you really just trying to make your HMWWV fast"? To me, logic dictates that's a complete waste of time, energy and money. Back to the issue you had of not much power difference.....Well duh, of course not! You have 400HP now compared to under 200HP with the HMMWV, but what's the torque output of the LS? Secondly, the diesel engine is putting out it's max torque at like 1,500RPM and around 300ft-lbs (if it's the N/A 6.5L). Where is the LS putting out more than 300 ft-lbs and what's the RPM.....basically what's the torque and HP curves look like when put together on a graph? Gas engines normally need to be at a high RPM to get the torque and HP numbers up, and what that translates into in real life is that you gotta be hauling ass all the time to produce those big numbers. Do you really want to constantly drive your HMMWV 100mph+??? To me it seems like you're trying to break a block of cement with a regular hammer. You want to use the regular hammer because you think that swinging it super fast is going to get the job done amazingly....The reality is that for a HMMWV, you want a slow swinging 10lb sledge hammer to break that block. In a light weight Vette that LS will kick ass because the Vette weighs like 40% less or so (just my off the cuff guess). You don't need a ton of torque to get that lightweight car moving. Actually you can totally have too much torque in a car and it will completely work against you. If a Vette has 1000 ft-lbs you are going to lose control of that car and wreck it really quick unless you're The Stig. Ideally you'd want a moderate amount of torque and high HP.....that way it's far more predictable and controllable (unless you have an all wheel drive car, then you can have high HP and torque combined). In a HMMWV you want the opposite.....high torque and low HP. The way when you are off-road you have all the pulling power you'll even need, but with the low HP so you can control it in the off-road environment where speed is actually a bad thing.
If you trimmed the snorkel tube like you plan but leave enough left to get a hose clamp around it you could get a sheet of “outerwear “ like a fine mesh pre filter designed to repel dust and water for off-road intakes. Just if you some how didn’t know. And that would probably do much the same thing that the stock plate was there for, and it should effect airflow minimally to not at all. I bet water and larger dirt particles would loose velocity and gravity would take them to the drain. In case of water and some dirt but most dirt would just get stuck on the outside of the prefilter. There like $20 off amazon or something. Will also keep your air filter better for longer saving money. Or if it’s a cleanable filter save you the hassle of picking out big bug guts and trying not to damage the filter while doing so and then actually having to do it more often. The outerwear can just be cleaned in a sink usually even without a little dish soap but I do usually use a little just because it’s always there. Heck even a water bottle poured the reverse of air flow would be just fine and hose clamp back on
Remember sometimes more motor is not good. Example my uncle had a Toyota TRUCK put in 350 4 bolt main in it he kept stripping rear end gears even properly shimmed bad ass gears tore them up too. Maybe it was the nos but even without the nos same shit. Certain thing are built for reliability and over power wear out shit or just kills it lol
So as I was saying. If you inject more Fuel W/out More AIR it Can't Burn the Fuel. U must have the Ratio Right or like the old Trucks use to SMOKE = U see Black Smoke is Unburnt Diesel.! So as I use to grab the Next Gear Pulling 80 Thousand PDS up a hill the old Mack's Would SMOKE BLK SMOKE Until the R.P.M.s Caught Up. Then the Air Ratio would be Corrected. ! I Hope this helps Explain. Better. But No my Friend Get that Hole Fixed & get You A Turbo For That Engine... Then it will have Air Pressure in the Air intake & as the Value Opens Air= Oxigen is Forced into the Chamber & NOTICEABLE POWER COMES NEXT...
I haven't gotten it all back together yet but just based on the increased CFM i'm guessing it will. I'll make an update video soon, i've got a lot i'm trying to button up.
You probably weren’t seeing a big difference in power because it’s an over 7000 pound vehicle and you took the diesel engine out of it. They weren’t really geared to go fast
The humvee weighs in around 5500# my 2015 half ton weighs more than your standard humvee. They are 90 percent aluminum with the exception of the drivetrain and frame the body is aluminum.
Why argue about it? Surely you don’t think that every vehicle is going to weigh exactly the same? Mind you, a 2,000 lb. weight gain stretches the bounds of credulity. There are various modifications for different variants that will add or take away a few hundred lbs.. A vehicle may even have had a modification done at the unit level, to suit individual commanders. That could change the weight of the vehicle by a few hundred lbs.. A vehicle could gain or loose weight just from the difference between welders if the welds done by hand. Even how many times a vehicle was painted will increase it’s weight. It does surprise me though that people who are obviously using the internet refuse to check readily available specs before they destroy their credibility. Wikipedia lists the weight as: 5,200 to 5,900 lb (2,359 to 2,676 kg) curb weight, 7,700 to 8,500 lb (3,493 to 3,856 kg) gross weight
A 6.5L engine at 3400(redline) assuming 90% efficiency needs 351 CFM. With a clean filter this should not be a significant restriction/power loss on the original engine. You could always do a dyno run fully stock, then put a large K&N type filter nearer the intake to test this. I'm sure that would be a popular comparison video/post.
LSXHumvee that may be a big part of your disappointed. Did you replace the transmission as well? That drive train being tuned for torque, plus the very nature of the vehicle, just swallows your hp. Optimizer 6.5L Turbo puts out 458fp/195hp @1800/3000, and handles in my H1 very competently. Where did the LS come from, a C6?
It came out of a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0. I still run the TH400. I think now that I have it breathing right i'll have fun all the way to 6,500 rpm :-) The biggest reason for the change was the noise level. After driving it across the state I was about deaf, now it runs like a sewing machine and is much more enjoyable for me and the kids.
LSXHumvee nice, nice. If I ever sell my H1 I considered that I would build a surplus model, and yeah I considered noise would be HUGE! They did a good job with the H1s, but I know too well from my military days they don't have the "Hearing protection required" sticker in there for no reason. Think I'll do a Duramax. Cummins is a good engine but I hate the way they sound. Anyhoo, Cheers.
Matt, like you I will never go that deep in the water, did it make a difference, do you think with the original diesel engine that you would gain something, where did you get the 4' riser for the air cap and does the K&N also make a big difference, did you use K&N #: E-1700. Thnaks
I did one more thing, I removed the mesh inside the pre-air intake cap, I will see if it makes a difference, seems to me that the mesh was restricting a lot of air, very easy to remove with a pair of plier. Good luck on your toy
I ended up cutting out the entire inside wall of the air intake box. It should flow plenty of air now. When I did the math on how much air flows through the intake cap it was WAY more than what's needed so hopefully the mesh doesn't restrict too much but that will be the next step if I need more air.
You didn't feel much difference in power because the diesel had a lot of torque. You only feel the difference in power up there close to the top speed. Low speed is all torque.
@@douganderson7002 was built for reliability and military use 40 years ago. You are just too poor too even afford a government auction hummer you stupid fuck. No way you even own a truck.
@@PistonAvatarGuy a Cummings turbo diesel with a Allision Trans would most likely be the very best combo (depending in the gearing of the trans). But really though....is all of that money and work necessary? I'd say unless you have money to burn or the factory engine is blown out, leave it as is.
@@gfactor559 Too big (requires a body lift), too expensive, too heavy and too underpowered (unless you're talking about the latest Cummins engines, which are ridiculously over complicated), an LS is better in every possible way. The factory diesel makes less power than many economy cars and it isn't very reliable engine. I'd also want catalytic converters, no need to pollute unnecessarily.
Are you suuure it's too big? I mean we arent talking a big rig diesel. As far as heavy....even if it's 100 pounds heavier that's not going to matter. Sorry, but regardless of everything else you said that could be true (I can't say for 100% sure either way).....I can say for CERTAIN that unless the HMMWV is just going to be an urban warrior, putting an LS in it is going to ruin the whole vehicle. Sure it'll still start up and get you around....pick up some groceries and get you to your office job, but that's it. Plus if the person ever goes to resell it.....yeah good luck
@@gfactor559 Yes, I'm sure that it's too big, you need to install a body lift for it to fit. Also, you do realize that the vast majority of trucks come with gasoline engines, right? Those gasoline engines do include LS engines and they tow, off road and accelerate just fine. I don't even understand why you'd want a diesel, especially the gutless stock engine. - Heck, if you really need towing power, you could probably fit the new Ford Godzilla V8 in a Humvee.
@@LSXHumvee as much as I disagree with you on everything about this build, buying from harbor freight was definitely the smartest thing you did. Why spend quadruple on a snap on tool when I can get the same shit for $10
It’s your truck man, do what you want. We are just along for the ride.
The hole that you cut in the diverter is part of the precleaner. It is supposed to get the air swirling and the centrifugal force cause the dirt to separate. What will happen with your setup is that you will get a hole in the filter element over time, because you will sand blast it with dirt and moisture. Also, the fording hummer bypasses the drop box by adding a rubber elbow inside. Your hummer is not made for fording.
I've modified it further, new video coming soon.
Great points you make yes I seen the elbow fording kit for sale My air intake is basically hood height ( no I do not ford water with it I use it on a cattle ranch and I try to stay out of the mud as much as possible) should I extend that up higher or does it not make any difference? not sure if a 4" rubber hose would be the right fit I seen some of those for sale on ebay.
So maybe you should have looked at the h1 a little bit before doing all this. In the h1 there is no deflector in the snorkel box, it has a 90deg. Silicon elbow. And they have a k&n style air filter. They did all of that so the dmax could flow the proper amount of air.
Matt, Matt, Matt...
You can't do this to your beloved HMMWV...
... 'cause... um...
Yeah... I got nothin'.
Carry on!
Looks like it is going to be badass, btw. :)
At the end we haven't heard how much improvement it made to the engine performance- the design is to create swirling vortices to separate heavy particles which isn't as efficient as straight through flow. I also met a guy two years ago that had changed his HMMMWV's radiator to an Aluminum one saying it is the best cooled HMMWWV in the USA> then what? what is the practical gain?
Did I hear you correctly (if not I completely wasted a lot of time here lol).....you put in a V8 LS gas engine in there? I'll say this as nice as possible with regards to you saying that there wasn't a very noticeable power difference.....Do you understand how gas and diesel engines are different from each other and how the application of any engine is of utmost importance to understand?
For starters, HMMWv's weigh over 5,500 lbs (depending on the variant you have). Lecture time: You need something with high torque, because torque is the actual force that gets a vehicle moving forward. Horsepower is how "fast" that work is done. This is where "application" comes in....when I was a teen till my mid 20's, I was really into trucks. At some point 2 wheel drives and other times 4x4's. My last truck was a 70 Chevy and I put a Mark-5 (I think '94) 454 big block in it with a turbo 400 transmission. Obviously I was looking to go fast, but what I soon learned was that no matter what I did, a car was going to be faster (for many reasons). Trying to make a truck go extra fast turned out to be a retarded thing to try to do. So then I got into cars and not too long later, Audi's (which I still have 1 now). My point to all of this is "are you really just trying to make your HMWWV fast"? To me, logic dictates that's a complete waste of time, energy and money.
Back to the issue you had of not much power difference.....Well duh, of course not! You have 400HP now compared to under 200HP with the HMMWV, but what's the torque output of the LS? Secondly, the diesel engine is putting out it's max torque at like 1,500RPM and around 300ft-lbs (if it's the N/A 6.5L). Where is the LS putting out more than 300 ft-lbs and what's the RPM.....basically what's the torque and HP curves look like when put together on a graph? Gas engines normally need to be at a high RPM to get the torque and HP numbers up, and what that translates into in real life is that you gotta be hauling ass all the time to produce those big numbers. Do you really want to constantly drive your HMMWV 100mph+??? To me it seems like you're trying to break a block of cement with a regular hammer. You want to use the regular hammer because you think that swinging it super fast is going to get the job done amazingly....The reality is that for a HMMWV, you want a slow swinging 10lb sledge hammer to break that block. In a light weight Vette that LS will kick ass because the Vette weighs like 40% less or so (just my off the cuff guess). You don't need a ton of torque to get that lightweight car moving. Actually you can totally have too much torque in a car and it will completely work against you. If a Vette has 1000 ft-lbs you are going to lose control of that car and wreck it really quick unless you're The Stig. Ideally you'd want a moderate amount of torque and high HP.....that way it's far more predictable and controllable (unless you have an all wheel drive car, then you can have high HP and torque combined). In a HMMWV you want the opposite.....high torque and low HP. The way when you are off-road you have all the pulling power you'll even need, but with the low HP so you can control it in the off-road environment where speed is actually a bad thing.
You wrote so much! Wow. I didn't read it sorry. LS Swap the world...
That's why I'm doin a cummins 12v in mine....with mods...of course :)
Very interesting mod.
If you trimmed the snorkel tube like you plan but leave enough left to get a hose clamp around it you could get a sheet of “outerwear “ like a fine mesh pre filter designed to repel dust and water for off-road intakes. Just if you some how didn’t know. And that would probably do much the same thing that the stock plate was there for, and it should effect airflow minimally to not at all. I bet water and larger dirt particles would loose velocity and gravity would take them to the drain. In case of water and some dirt but most dirt would just get stuck on the outside of the prefilter. There like $20 off amazon or something. Will also keep your air filter better for longer saving money. Or if it’s a cleanable filter save you the hassle of picking out big bug guts and trying not to damage the filter while doing so and then actually having to do it more often. The outerwear can just be cleaned in a sink usually even without a little dish soap but I do usually use a little just because it’s always there. Heck even a water bottle poured the reverse of air flow would be just fine and hose clamp back on
Remember sometimes more motor is not good. Example my uncle had a Toyota TRUCK put in 350 4 bolt main in it he kept stripping rear end gears even properly shimmed bad ass gears tore them up too. Maybe it was the nos but even without the nos same shit. Certain thing are built for reliability and over power wear out shit or just kills it lol
So as I was saying. If you inject more Fuel W/out More AIR it Can't Burn the Fuel. U must have the Ratio Right or like the old Trucks use to SMOKE = U see Black Smoke is Unburnt Diesel.! So as I use to grab the Next Gear Pulling 80 Thousand PDS up a hill the old Mack's Would SMOKE BLK SMOKE Until the R.P.M.s Caught Up. Then the Air Ratio would be Corrected. ! I Hope this helps Explain. Better. But No my Friend Get that Hole Fixed & get You A Turbo For That Engine... Then it will have Air Pressure in the Air intake & as the Value Opens Air= Oxigen is Forced into the Chamber & NOTICEABLE POWER COMES NEXT...
Do you think cutting the airbox like you did, would be beneficial for a non turbo stock 6.5 Diesel in mine?
Your humvee doesn't have a deep water forgoing kit its only rated to 30 inches
Correct and honestly it can't event do that anymore.
Did this make a noticeable difference in the performance of your HMMWV?
I haven't gotten it all back together yet but just based on the increased CFM i'm guessing it will. I'll make an update video soon, i've got a lot i'm trying to button up.
Did you get it put back together yet? How’s she run?
Do u have a video on replacing water pump pleese
Torque is what moves a Hummer, brother, HP is a function of speed, i.e. RPM.
Great information! Thanks for sharing :-)
What about adding a 24v 3" fan into the ABS extension for the air cover to force air through the system?
Either get you parkinson's under control, or get a tripod...
SO... WHAT HAPPENED? DID IT WORK? MOR HP?? FASTER? POWERFULL? OR FAIL?
It worked. As any intake modification, not a huge gain with the diesel but with the LS swap it made a huge difference.
Thank god I'm not the only one freakin out about not having any results published in this vid!
@@LSXHumvee How much? numbers man!!! We need frickin numbers!!!!
My headlight keep burning out just one the other one stays on anyone else has had that issue
I'd like you let us in on the air filter you are now using, thanks
It's the K&N for the Hummer H1
You probably weren’t seeing a big difference in power because it’s an over 7000 pound vehicle and you took the diesel engine out of it. They weren’t really geared to go fast
If you don't know, why saying anything. the humvee does not weigh 7000 pound. Do your research.
The humvee weighs in around 5500# my 2015 half ton weighs more than your standard humvee. They are 90 percent aluminum with the exception of the drivetrain and frame the body is aluminum.
Why argue about it?
Surely you don’t think that every vehicle is going to weigh exactly the same? Mind you, a 2,000 lb. weight gain stretches the bounds of credulity.
There are various modifications for different variants that will add or take away a few hundred lbs.. A vehicle may even have had a modification done at the unit level, to suit individual commanders. That could change the weight of the vehicle by a few hundred lbs.. A vehicle could gain or loose weight just from the difference between welders if the welds done by hand. Even how many times a vehicle was painted will increase it’s weight.
It does surprise me though that people who are obviously using the internet refuse to check readily available specs before they destroy their credibility.
Wikipedia lists the weight as: 5,200 to 5,900 lb (2,359 to 2,676 kg) curb weight, 7,700 to 8,500 lb (3,493 to 3,856 kg) gross weight
@@bassstudent4life this one doesn’t but even so, this dumbass put an ls in a humvee
Wonder if I do this on mine if the 6.5 na diesel would perform better?
A 6.5L engine at 3400(redline) assuming 90% efficiency needs 351 CFM. With a clean filter this should not be a significant restriction/power loss on the original engine.
You could always do a dyno run fully stock, then put a large K&N type filter nearer the intake to test this. I'm sure that would be a popular comparison video/post.
Hy guys.what is the ideal tempereture after reapleacing the lsx engine?
THE PROBLEM IS YOU ARE WRONG,,,, YOU RUIND THE PRECLEANER DONTS YOU GET IT??
Cut it all out and put in a KNA filter
What kind of torque is that LS putting out?
around 450
LSXHumvee that may be a big part of your disappointed. Did you replace the transmission as well? That drive train being tuned for torque, plus the very nature of the vehicle, just swallows your hp. Optimizer 6.5L Turbo puts out 458fp/195hp @1800/3000, and handles in my H1 very competently. Where did the LS come from, a C6?
It came out of a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0. I still run the TH400. I think now that I have it breathing right i'll have fun all the way to 6,500 rpm :-) The biggest reason for the change was the noise level. After driving it across the state I was about deaf, now it runs like a sewing machine and is much more enjoyable for me and the kids.
LSXHumvee nice, nice. If I ever sell my H1 I considered that I would build a surplus model, and yeah I considered noise would be HUGE! They did a good job with the H1s, but I know too well from my military days they don't have the "Hearing protection required" sticker in there for no reason. Think I'll do a Duramax. Cummins is a good engine but I hate the way they sound. Anyhoo, Cheers.
9lbs = 6 pounds of dirt in it.
Matt, like you I will never go that deep in the water, did it make a difference, do you think with the original diesel engine that you would gain something, where did you get the 4' riser for the air cap and does the K&N also make a big difference, did you use K&N #: E-1700. Thnaks
I think if you do the air mod I would recommend turning up the diesel pump but just be careful playing with air/fuel ratios.
I did one more thing, I removed the mesh inside the pre-air intake cap, I will see if it makes a difference, seems to me that the mesh was restricting a lot of air, very easy to remove with a pair of plier. Good luck on your toy
I ended up cutting out the entire inside wall of the air intake box. It should flow plenty of air now. When I did the math on how much air flows through the intake cap it was WAY more than what's needed so hopefully the mesh doesn't restrict too much but that will be the next step if I need more air.
If you run kn you may as well throw your air filter away
We're gonna run it! I just need it to block the rocks, I can change the oil to get rid of the dirt haha
What do you mean "I don't know how much HP I will lose through the drive train", what's the issue with it? I'm looking to get one.
It's just a lossy drivetrain, mainly because of the portal axles.
You didn't feel much difference in power because the diesel had a lot of torque. You only feel the difference in power up there close to the top speed. Low speed is all torque.
Erhm the humvee has like 290 flbs of torque …
@@oliverrosenkrantz7603 gear reduction so it was kinda like double that in actuality
what motor mounts did you use?
Just a small block LS conversion mount for a small block 350.
@@LSXHumvee thx how is the truck after the intake mods?
@@LSXHumvee is that the stock mount from the LS engine or something different? Just finished my 6.0 build. Thanks for the great tutorials
How can I find out how to put a gas engine in my m998
Just watch all my videos, I go over it in pretty good detail.
I'm sorry but that's a ridiculous thing to do. read my write-up. I explain why.
Don’t do it, do not. I repeat do not do what this nitwit did to his humvee.
Good instructive video thx for sharing
I guess That's the reason why fuel Economy sucks plus paper filter just get straight pipe intake and a long snorkel
It's also a big barn door going down the road, that's what really kills economy.
good idea
how much are hummers?
Anywhere from 8k up to over 150k
www.govplanet.com/Humvees?ct=35
No where near what dude is saying.
@@e4mafia_tn what do you mean?
You can come to Buffalo NY and pay about $20
Can I do it to my 6.2l 1993.
Dont
do you realy think you smarter then the guy that build the humvie??? dont touch anything man
@@douganderson7002 was built for reliability and military use 40 years ago. You are just too poor too even afford a government auction hummer you stupid fuck. No way you even own a truck.
Why an ls?
There's literally no better option.
@@PistonAvatarGuy a Cummings turbo diesel with a Allision Trans would most likely be the very best combo (depending in the gearing of the trans). But really though....is all of that money and work necessary? I'd say unless you have money to burn or the factory engine is blown out, leave it as is.
@@gfactor559 Too big (requires a body lift), too expensive, too heavy and too underpowered (unless you're talking about the latest Cummins engines, which are ridiculously over complicated), an LS is better in every possible way. The factory diesel makes less power than many economy cars and it isn't very reliable engine. I'd also want catalytic converters, no need to pollute unnecessarily.
Are you suuure it's too big? I mean we arent talking a big rig diesel. As far as heavy....even if it's 100 pounds heavier that's not going to matter.
Sorry, but regardless of everything else you said that could be true (I can't say for 100% sure either way).....I can say for CERTAIN that unless the HMMWV is just going to be an urban warrior, putting an LS in it is going to ruin the whole vehicle. Sure it'll still start up and get you around....pick up some groceries and get you to your office job, but that's it. Plus if the person ever goes to resell it.....yeah good luck
@@gfactor559 Yes, I'm sure that it's too big, you need to install a body lift for it to fit. Also, you do realize that the vast majority of trucks come with gasoline engines, right? Those gasoline engines do include LS engines and they tow, off road and accelerate just fine. I don't even understand why you'd want a diesel, especially the gutless stock engine.
-
Heck, if you really need towing power, you could probably fit the new Ford Godzilla V8 in a Humvee.
Just junk the whole concept and run a snorkel above the cab. ruclips.net/video/jrCdRIlAd2g/видео.html
nice - should breath easier now!!
Owns a hummer and uses harbor freight socket set smh!
It's because I buy harbor freight sockets that I can buy a Humvee :-) Also, i've never broken a HF socket, I have broken snap-on and craftsman.
Imran Khan it is not a h1 it is in fact a High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle (HMMWV) the h1 is the civilian model.
@@LSXHumvee as much as I disagree with you on everything about this build, buying from harbor freight was definitely the smartest thing you did. Why spend quadruple on a snap on tool when I can get the same shit for $10