Maintenance check of geared hubs for HMMWV
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Check out WWW.DamageControlCustoms.COM
This is one of the very first things you should check on your military surplus HMMWV. Once you get your HMMWV you want to check and make sure your geared hubs are in good condition and full of oil. This is a simple check that shouldn't take you much money and time. However, if you don't do it, then you are risking losing a tire at the very least.
Also note: (1) you should do this check every 5-10K miles. (2) I believe you can switch to the civilian version of the same thing and I hear they are safer. I've never done the mil to civilian. conversation so I'm not sure.
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Enjoy and share!
Your modesty makes for easy watching peace
Thank you very much! I just try and post as I learn myself. In fact, I have an updated video on the hubs. check in my list of videos
Shout out to truckers and all those in the transport industry. Great video, btw...
We appreciate it!
Your awesome my friend. You helped me so much and really got me over more then one rough spot. Thank you for posting
Very welcome
Can only join the comment of M998 HMMWV! Thank you for the many videos that you provide. It helps me a lot to maintain the Humvee M998 since I'm not a mechanic either ... Thanks
Very welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. I will try to keep on adding more.
@@rubenmasterdamagecontrolma5313 Cool, thank you very much :-)
Thanks for sharing, Rub.
I've got a video in the editing queue on changing the gear oil. I like that you went a step further to show the axle, nut and critical axle tabs.
You're very welcome brother!
I’ve found using a pump attachment for the jugs work well to speed that process up. Owned mine since 2001 from the first auction.
Good inputs
Thanks everyone! I just bought one and have a bunch of time and money in it but I can't Remember every little thing from the army plus I wasn't a mechanic sooooooo I'm basically like most of y'all, king of the PMI and PMCs!!! Lol...
Enjoy your channel. You are too the point and make it look easy.
Thank you !
very informative Rub! I've been told by several FB members I need to check my wheel hub oil and had zero clues how.
Michael B. / St. Louis
STLZombieHunter I'm glad it was useful for you!
To change the hub oil, you'll need to drain it. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the hub (hexagonal). when you replace it make sure you use some antiseize on the threads. Usually when I inspect mine, I also pull the inspection plate off, roll the hub and inspect the gears for wear or damage.
Good job Ruben.
Adalberto Argenta thank you!
Just the info I needed. Thanks for sharing!
Ron McGinnis glad you found value in it
Thank you for sharing! Great video
Dan Borden you're welcome
nice video, can you make a video showing how the half shaft actually attached to the rim assemble and drive the tire(inside the rim hub)? thanks
Next time I change a shaft I sure will
Will 12k gears fit inside those hubs? Or do I have to buy a whole new portal hub housing?
I've never tried so I can't say for sure. I know for sure that 12K shafts won't fit but I don't know if you can take 12K gears and put them in the same hubs.
Even if the videos are shit I wish everyone would post when they figure something out or fix something... e.g. My parking break light wasn't going off and the switch was good because I changed it and nothing worked, pulled out the old magic hammer and hit right above the actual light a few times and voilà magic hammer fixed it again!!!
thats funny
Is that the only access point to add oil?
It's easy to get to, you don't even have to take the tire off if all you're doing is adding gear oil.
Great vidio.
john glass thank you
Quick question on this video, on the 2 tabs you checked you made sure they were in place, makes sense. Are these always located where they were or do they spin as you drive? There seemed to be other tabs and notches as well on another part of the spindle nut, why are those ones not bent in place also? Thanks for the help.
Hello, only two of the tabs should turn over. In the near future, I'm going to make a video on how to install the locking ones, in case you were interested. damagecontrolcustoms.com/product/locking-spindle-nut-kit/
Thanks for the quick reply. About to change out a half shaft and noticed a blue x on the inside of my hub so I'm going to knock this out as well. My mechanic rebuilt 2 of my hubs and used Royal Purple 75W-90. His reasoning is to keep all the fluids easily identifiable in case of a leak. It's different than the TM "Multipurpose Gear
GO 80/90" or maybe it's not. Think I'm good there?
good job.
Jonathan Perque thanks!
Is this the same seal that causes the tire to get streaks on the back side? I'm bringing mine home soon and the left rear is the only one doing it.
Streaks on the tires are being caused by a bad output seal on the hub. It's a tap in seal. You'll need to pull the Spindle from the hub to replace.
Bruce Taylor I did what was done in this video and I don't see any more leaks.
That's great news. Star shaped spray on the back of the wheel is typically caused by a bad output spindle seal, it's well documented. I'm glad hear this wasn't the case for you. Enjoy your HMMWV.
Bruce Taylor either way I'll be doing all seals and bluhummer nuts next spring.
Hi. I know you work on a lot of M998 Hi.. Was wondering if you ever ran across problem with no low beam on drivers side only? I see this to be a common problem but no answers on what the cause or repair is? Can you help please? Is there a headlight control module?
I don't Give a rats ass have you checked your lights? Swap the right with the left, it may be your light.
If that doesn’t help, then check your connection, make sure you don’t have old cracked connectors inside the bucket and from the back(inside the hood).
If that’s not it, then follow your wire to the left side of your hood to the connection point on the harness.
If that doesn’t help, then check for grounding issues.
Ruben Master Damage Controlman i checked everything i physically could. I will try checking the wire from the dimmer switch to the headlight. I switched the 17 and 18 wire and got low beam but knocked out my black out lights and horn. So i know bulbs are good and i switched the wires back. New headlight bucket and connections are all tight and good ground. I see a lot of people have this problem but cant find the answer. I will check the wire from headlight to dimmer switch next. Is there a headlight module?
Send me an email at DamageControlCustoms@gmail.com we can trouble shoot it together
Ruben Master Damage Controlman thanks!
Not to be a total party pooper but why wouldn't you take a hammer with that flat head screw driver and push those lock tabs back so you can unscrew the nut and pop the baring out and actually check to see if the baring it pitted or not?
TheRooSkittler that's a fair point. In my case, as mentioned in the video, I knew I had a leak. My goal was to replace the gasket. So, I figured I would do a quick video while I was at it. Again, you make a good point. Thanks for your comment
Ah yeah, probably wasn't paying attention when you where talking about only redoing the gasket