Great step by step. One thing you should add for people who are like really beginners like me. How to jack the car properly. I was never taught by anyone but people like you. And it took me three tries to get the right spot….
A suggestion: remove the lid on the brake reservoir. This is helpful when you're ready to compress the calipers when installing the new brake pads as the level of fluid will rise and the air needs to escape.
When yo said bleed the brakes you just push the brake pedal or you have to do something else to the break lines? Like to let break fluid come out? Thank you in advance i want to change my mustang breaks my self to safe me some money..
make sure if you have dual piston calipers that you get the right tool, a dual piston brake tool is about $40 and it will save you from damaging the caliper, by unevenly depressing the dual pistons which will scrape the piston walls and can seize up your pistons...
I think this might have been your first time doing brakes. So I wanted to point out a few things that I saw that you should do differently on your next brake job. The first thing I saw was that you did not use your jack stand. Or at least I could not see it from any angle. The next thing was, you should probably use a hanger wire or bungee to hold your caliper. Also use a water bottle with a hose for when you squeeze your calipers. You are better off loosening the bleeder plug and letting the brake fluid drain into the bottle as you collapse the caliper. Then tighten the bleeder plug when you have enough room for the pads. It is a good idea to use brake parts cleaner on the rotor and and brake caliper but not the pads. I also saw that your rotor was in poor condition and should have been turned or replaced. Then after you put your wheel back on torque the lugs in the correct sequence. Do not do them in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Do the top one then the one opposite of it and so on until you have torqued all of them. Then check your brake fluid level and test. Now I am not an expert, but these tips could help you in a good way. Good luck and don't give up
All this you said is totally unnecessary. Wayyy over thinking a brake job buddy. He didn't need brake cleaner either bc he didn't install new rotors. New rotors have a oily film that does need sprayed with brake cleaner.
@@jeffellis6798 how does a person over think a brake job? Someone’s life could depend on it. Do you go through a lot of bailing wire and duct tape? The difference between you and I is I always give 100%. I’ll continue to over think it while you keep doing it twice. Take care and have a wonderful day
If you jack up both front tires to do both of the front brakes, turn your steering wheel away from the pad you're working on. This will turn the assembly and allow you to see the back side better. Other tips that might help are: Place Copper anti-seize lubricant on the new pad ends and the outside pad to lubricate metal-on-metal friction where it shouldn't be. Place Silicon Paste on the guide pins to ensure your caliper can easily slide. **Be sure NOT to get the anti-seize or silicon paste on the actual brake pads or rotors**
We changed my brakes and loss fluid. Now when I try to pump my brakes..... I have NO pressure😧😫 not sure what to do as we’ve tried a few times to get the air out of the braking system. Brake fluid is full as well. I have a 2003 GT
See our RUclips channel for some Ford how-to videos. We have a special caliper tool that works well. The C clamp is also good. If you change brake rotors frequently, then the tool we use is very handy.
My passenger side has a dual piston caliper that you can compress with a C-clamp. My driver side caliper is single piston and requires the tool from AutoZone… WTF
I changed many breaks through the years on different vehicles I seen you did not cross tighten the lug nuts on the wheels you went in a circle pattern to tighting them that was wrong, cross tighten only, you also at the end state & show how you bleed the breaks by showing your foot pressing on the brake pedal? that is not bleeding the brakes sir, bleeding brakes is opening each bleed nipple on each wheel cylinder one at a time then pressing down on the brake pedal then tighten the bleed nipple then going to the next one though being sure master cylinder is full prior to going to the next wheel cylinder to bleed & to note that a person doesnt have to bleed brake lines when doing a brake job only if air gets into the lines then would have to, cant stress it enough its very important to keep an eye on the master cylinder never letting the fluid get to the bottom of the master cylinder being sure to add some fluid so does not run low.
Great step by step. One thing you should add for people who are like really beginners like me. How to jack the car properly. I was never taught by anyone but people like you. And it took me three tries to get the right spot….
Dude, thank you so much. You saved me a lot of money. Best of luck in life, man.
@Mario Meza me please and
A suggestion: remove the lid on the brake reservoir. This is helpful when you're ready to compress the calipers when installing the new brake pads as the level of fluid will rise and the air needs to escape.
That's what I do too.
Sweet video and I agree with it all except the bleeding part. When you install the way you did without losing any fluid no need to bleed
Maybe bleeding is the wrong word, what I meant is pump the brakes a few times to get the caliper to re-engage. But, thanks for the comment!
When yo said bleed the brakes you just push the brake pedal or you have to do something else to the break lines? Like to let break fluid come out? Thank you in advance i want to change my mustang breaks my self to safe me some money..
Perfect amount and level of instructions. Thank you!
make sure if you have dual piston calipers that you get the right tool, a dual piston brake tool is about $40 and it will save you from damaging the caliper, by unevenly depressing the dual pistons which will scrape the piston walls and can seize up your pistons...
Can I rent one from AutoZone?
I think this might have been your first time doing brakes. So I wanted to point out a few things that I saw that you should do differently on your next brake job. The first thing I saw was that you did not use your jack stand. Or at least I could not see it from any angle. The next thing was, you should probably use a hanger wire or bungee to hold your caliper. Also use a water bottle with a hose for when you squeeze your calipers. You are better off loosening the bleeder plug and letting the brake fluid drain into the bottle as you collapse the caliper. Then tighten the bleeder plug when you have enough room for the pads. It is a good idea to use brake parts cleaner on the rotor and and brake caliper but not the pads. I also saw that your rotor was in poor condition and should have been turned or replaced. Then after you put your wheel back on torque the lugs in the correct sequence. Do not do them in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Do the top one then the one opposite of it and so on until you have torqued all of them. Then check your brake fluid level and test. Now I am not an expert, but these tips could help you in a good way. Good luck and don't give up
All this you said is totally unnecessary. Wayyy over thinking a brake job buddy. He didn't need brake cleaner either bc he didn't install new rotors. New rotors have a oily film that does need sprayed with brake cleaner.
@@jeffellis6798 how does a person over think a brake job? Someone’s life could depend on it. Do you go through a lot of bailing wire and duct tape? The difference between you and I is I always give 100%. I’ll continue to over think it while you keep doing it twice. Take care and have a wonderful day
Thanks brother for the video very simple explanation 👍
I want to do new brakes and do a fat pull before testing them out
Yup that's all there is to it, I wonder how much the dealership charges.
Way more than it's worth lol
Great video! It was helpful and made the job a breeze
my parking cable seal sleeve thats attached to the caliper are ripped, will this be a problem?
is it safe to use copper anti seize on back of brake pad? is it safe on rubber piston boot?
Awesome video brother
Very nice video. Thanks.
Saved me $300 😁
What about pinching the brake line when u put the clamp on the pistons ?
Real good video
Very informative thank you so much....I'm not confident on the back brakes tho
Yeah, the back brakes kind of suck haha. As long as you have or rent a brake caliper tool though, it's pretty easy.
My bad I meant the back of the rotor where u were unscrewing thinga
Oh yeah, I hate getting back there haha
O well you had me motivated until I found a guy to do it for $40....guess I will be keeping my pretty nails...lol
If you jack up both front tires to do both of the front brakes, turn your steering wheel away from the pad you're working on. This will turn the assembly and allow you to see the back side better.
Other tips that might help are:
Place Copper anti-seize lubricant on the new pad ends and the outside pad to lubricate metal-on-metal friction where it shouldn't be.
Place Silicon Paste on the guide pins to ensure your caliper can easily slide.
**Be sure NOT to get the anti-seize or silicon paste on the actual brake pads or rotors**
We changed my brakes and loss fluid. Now when I try to pump my brakes..... I have NO pressure😧😫 not sure what to do as we’ve tried a few times to get the air out of the braking system. Brake fluid is full as well. I have a 2003 GT
Have you used a brake bleeding kit?
very helpfull, thank you!
You didn't show decompression of brake piston (pads) to rotor. The rest of the video is 👍!
Do you still own that car
Sure do! Havent driven it in a year though since I've been on a deployment haha
See our RUclips channel for some Ford how-to videos. We have a special caliper tool that works well. The C clamp is also good. If you change brake rotors frequently, then the tool we use is very handy.
Oh yeah, I have one. Just didn't have it with me at school where I filmed this haha
My passenger side has a dual piston caliper that you can compress with a C-clamp. My driver side caliper is single piston and requires the tool from AutoZone… WTF
Damn, that's super weird. I've never understood some decisions manufacturers make lol
I replaced the back brakes & the passenger side calliper only , and now it gets red hot , why ? Anybody ...
Damaged piston or broke guide pin probably
Thank!!!
thanks brother!
what size c clamp was that?
it was about 6 inches
@@phillipmaz thanks man
There is more to bleeding brakes than that.
I changed many breaks through the years on different vehicles I seen you did not cross tighten the lug nuts on the wheels you went in a circle pattern to tighting them that was wrong, cross tighten only, you also at the end state & show how you bleed the breaks by showing your foot pressing on the brake pedal? that is not bleeding the brakes sir, bleeding brakes is opening each bleed nipple on each wheel cylinder one at a time then pressing down on the brake pedal then tighten the bleed nipple then going to the next one though being sure master cylinder is full prior to going to the next wheel cylinder to bleed & to note that a person doesnt have to bleed brake lines when doing a brake job only if air gets into the lines then would have to, cant stress it enough its very important to keep an eye on the master cylinder never letting the fluid get to the bottom of the master cylinder being sure to add some fluid so does not run low.
gyebaek #11 08
I'd be nice if you actually showed what your doing