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I've tried both a table saw and a band saw for my one car garage shop. I found that the bandsaw works best for my workflow, space restrictions, senses, and nerves. I winced every time I fired up my starter Craigslist table saw. The table saw works a treat for jigs and repeatable cuts, but with a bit of retooling, this can also be done with the band saw. I did, however, find that I have to run solid lumber through the saw very slowly to get a straight cut due to the blade's tendency to drift. This is also partially due to it being a budget saw as I wanted to test the waters before saving up and taking the plunge on a higher end model. My band saw feels like a tool while the table saw felt like I was handling live explosives or something all while being parked in the middle of my shop as I did my best to work around it. After the initial band saw blade gave up the ghost, I replaced it with a 1/2" 3TPI positive claw Timber Wolf blade and it has been able to cut everything from resawing hardwoods and exotics to breaking down sheet goods (within reason). Everyone's shop and style will warrant different needs, however. This is just what works best for me.
@@johnnorris1546 That would be a dream come true for me. I have a cheapie heater that does ok on cold days. When the temp drops to the single digits that heater just can't keep up.
I rip all my rough sawn lumber on my band saw. I find snapping a chalk line along one edge and ripping it free hand on the band saw saves a lot of passes on the jointer.
It goes back to your table saw video recently, people believe that the tablesaw is the heart of the shop but to be honest I bought my bandsaw first and if I had to sell one it would be the tablesaw. I think when you get creative, the bandsaw is one of the most versatile tools in any shop
I’m new to woodworking and in honesty, I’m several weeks into thinking about putting money aside to get a heftier-than-my-Ryobi bandsaw with a rip fence to replace my tablesaw. I never use wood thicker than 1” and the bandsaw just cuts so much nicer, with the worry of kickback gone.
One important thing to remember when using the band saw with used lumber is to be very sure there are no hidden broke off screws or nails in the wood. These blades are not forgiving like the carbide blades on the table saw and one brush either of these objects will ruin the blade.
A few hours before this published, I did a tuneup on a big ol delta in the local High School woodshop. The students will have more consistent cuts and control come Monday morning. I’m definitely going to pass this video along to the shop teacher. Help the kids get years worth of practical understanding in a format they can access and digest! Thank you again, Always worth stopping by! -Castor
Thanks for the advice. I became concerned because of kickback experiences I had from my table saw and was contemplating moving up to a better saw but as I studied I came to realize table saws functionality has a lot of flaws and no manufacturer was addressing the issues. I presently do not have a bandsaw but am now seriously considering purchasing a band saw and try to balance my wood cuts between a bandsaw and table saw.
Solid advice, for sure. ... Even with that, I see there are a small number of people who felt compelled to rank your video negatively. I am left shaking my head at the few people who give a “thumbs down” to indisputable advice such as this and other such well-conceived and delivered videos. I guess some are just consumed with negativity. ... James, keep up the good work!!
I always wonder the same thing. If one doesn't like a video, why spend any time further interacting with it by clicking dislike? I believe that most people click dislike because they're not interested in the subject matter and think that's the way to tell RUclips's algorithm not to continue putting similar videos in their recommended list.
Thanks for the video. Your comment about the correct speed of cut is essential as several things determine what speed is correct. Obviously overfeeding (too fast) leaves a poor cut and the blade can be damaged and too slow also leads to a poor cut as the sawdust is ground too finely for the gullet to carry away the dust and the dust will spill off to the side of the gullet and overheats the blade. Many factors to consider such as horsepower required, guide clearance, tension, etc... but you have the basics right.
Thanks for the video. I have two 70's era Sears craftsman 12" bandsaws, but no table saw (money being the issue). I use the 1/2 hp bandsaw with a 3/16" blade for curved cuts, and the 3/4 hp with a 4-toothed 1\2" blade for rips. I've gotten pretty good at ripping free-hand, but it does get old.
Stumpy, I really appreciate your videos. Always very informative and well done. I never finish without learning something or many things! Stay safe out there and cheers from MT
Very timely Mr Nubs! In the past day or so, I've put a new 1" blade on my bandsaw and transformed it from a misunderstood and slightly disliked tool to a ripping monster. I've been rough sawing glazing beads from knarly 1 1/8" oak, and it it so much less stressful (and safer) than on the table saw. As ever, thanks for posting.
Stumpy, or Mr. Nubs Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions on my band saw and within about 20 minutes of setting up I was able to make some excellent rips. Thanks Mike
A good throat plate can be a very useful thing. My band saw was the second power tool I bought. It is - now - an old Rigid saw with a riser installed. I tuned it up and generally have no problems with drift. However, the throat plate with saw is plastic. A neighbor talked me into letting him rip some thin panels for a ukulele. He builds musical instruments and his saw lack the vertical capacity. He brought a home made rip fence and a new half-inch blade. After we installed things and trued the cut, he started to cut. Somehow he managed to catch the blade and his board in such a fashion that the blade punched the lower core of the board through the plastic throat plate and popped the back end upward. It darned near hit him in the chin. I have never had that happen since, but there can be "kick up" under some circumstances.
The bandsaw has been one of my favorite go-to tools for many years, it is safe and very versatile, from curves, to making venner to cutting dovetails, a properly tuned bandsaw cant be beat! After watching your video, i decided to offer a little support for your youtube channel and give Harvey a try. I am in the market for a sliding table for my new SS, I called them three times to get answers to a couple of questions and to order it and after three days without a return call, i'm going to give up and buy the SS version. SS has great customer service and they actually answer their phone and call you back! thanks for your videos, i truly enjoy all of them.
Bandsaws are the best shop tool and you can’t change my mind! I bought my own bandsaw when I was 14, and I’ve had it for 8 years now. I use it for everything. A second bandsaw would be really handy for a resaw blade. But it’s easy enough to change them out when I have to.
Thank you once again. I really appreciate your wood work intuition, tips, and tricks. I'm having a frustrating time tuning my 1939 Walker-Turner bandsaw, but your video gives me hope that I might solve it. Thank you.
It's amazing that you KEEP coming up with such great content. Thanks for these videos. I am always larning something new or relearning something I forgot.
Bandsaws are excellent and versatile tools. They are better and safer for ripping than table saws, hands down, especially if you are working with rough sawn stock or any other stock that is not dead flat. Just avoid cheap bandsaws and cheap blades, if you can, and use the proper blade size and configuration for the application at hand. Good setup and appropriate cutting speed are crucial, as you point out. Excellent video. Thanks!
I recently acquired an old very solid bandsaw and agree completely that it's great for safely rip cutting timber that would be a bit sketchy on a table saw. I now don't know how I did without it! Also, I agree with your comments about drift - sharp blade with correctly set up saw should not drift.
Great content and delivery. Would love so see more videos that address the characteristics and shortcomings of the popular 9" benchtop bandsaws, including compensating for inadequate fences, small tables, building simple jigs that will work on tables without miter slots, etc.
I have an old Delta offshore ripoff machine I was given and while I got it setup and running well now (only a few hundred dollars into the "free" machine to do after fixing guides/blades/belts) I just added a Kreg fence to it... and holy hell did it give the machine a new life for me. I was basically just using for free-hand cuts before and annoyed with the cleanup work to make a nice edge... but even with my 3 tooth per inch blade it is so much nicer to rip boards. All I need to do now is get a dust collection hose hooked up to it and a mobile base and I can run it for long rips instead of my job-site table saw.
It's funny you posted this video today. I purchased a new Kreg bandsaw fence for my new Jet 14" bandsaw and a new 3/4 inch 3 tip re-saw blade and spent quite some time fine tuning the bearings and drift. I ended up re-sawing a 2x8 to 1/16 inch veneer and boy an I happy with the results. All of this using the techniques you mentioned in your video. I'm a huge fan of your efforts. Please keep up the good work. Todd in NH.
Thank you for a great video with many valuable tips. I've been struggling trying to rip with a band saw and just cleaned the accumulated dust in the teeth. Considering a 4 tpi blade thanks to your confirmation. I get smoke when I've tried so far.
+1 Stumpy's wisdom is golden once again. The bandsaw was originally designed to cut MEAT - like your fingers or arms - so SHOW SOME RESPECT - do what he says, and you can waste less wood and get your projects done. Mine is a Luguna, with their main Resaw King attached and it is beyond awesome for anything I have EVER used. However, it's wide and only suitable for resaw "curves need not apply." When that happens, I use the Highland hardware items with HUGE gullets as they are great at making it work on random limbs. Let's not dance around the subject internet users: Stumpy does his homework. Our money now, more than ever, is precious. I have NEVER been steered wrong by one of his recommendations. So just 'cause I went one way a couple years ago, doesn't mean I'm not smarter now and purchase from his recommended businesses. I DO NOT get any sort of kickback, but appreciate Harvey tools and his saw blade dudes - because they are small businesses who give a S*&^%. Made in America - trite - but accurate. Let's band together and make some dust eh? Rock on 10-fingered crowd!
The band saw has a special place in my heart. So fun to use and as long as you keep your fingers away, I think it's one of the safest tools in the shop!
@@StumpyNubs back in the day (50 years ago) when the neighborhood store included a meat cutter, many butchers were either missing a finger, or two, or had the web between their thumb and index finger mangled. The band saw by it being relatively quiet and benign looking, often instills a false sense of security resulting in taking a piece of finger to the ER for reattachment. I too have started to do more and more of my ripping on the band saw. I also bought my newest blades from the company you recommended a while ago. They are great blades and less expensive than some of the big name brands I've used in the past.
The Ellis 1600 is a fantastic bandsaw. It's more for metal work than wood, but it does both horizontal and vertical cuts, plus has a 1" wide blade. Very useful machine.
Rather than skew the fence to compensate for blade drift you should adjust the table position. Michael Fortune has a great video on the Fine Woodworking web site showing how to do this. Took 10 minutes to do mine and now the fence stays parallel to the miter slot and rip cuts are free of blade drift!
I had a particularly nasty piece of maple stall out my table saw. When I finished the cut on the bandsaw, there was a 3/4 inch gap between the two boards if I held them side by side. That's how much the wood bowed apart when the tension was released.
Drift can be eliminated by using your line on a board example but use the fence not free hand and make adjustments until the line is followed with no drift. May take multiple lines.
Hi there, great videos , I’m a site carpenter/ kitchen fitter , now in my late 50s I’m starting to plan my workshop for cabinet / joinery making , always dreamed of having one . Planning to buy some machines soon and your videos help me with the areas I’m not familiar with in the work shop, Just like to say I’ve just subscribed and enjoy your videos, 👍 Ken (from uk)
I really love band saws, they aren't nowhere scary as table saws, you can rip warped twisted lumber without major risks and then with the jointer you make them flat, square, smooth and ready for the table saw/router.
Nice video- very helpful. I made a tall aux fence for my bandsaw that helps me re-saw wide boards. One pass through the planer makes them just right. I use my bandsaw for lots of little odd cuts because its right there ready to go. My table saw is a portable so I have to drag it out and set it up for anything I do with it. PS- I got a set of ISO Tunes headphones like the ones on your bench for Christmas from my son. I told him to use your discount code. Thanks
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃 I've been searching for a band saw to buy for months already, but I still couldn't find any here in Brazil... But I won't give it up! 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
These days I watch your videos on my HD TV, so I cannot make comments. However, your recent video included a portion about SHOP SAFETY, so I switched to my iPhone in order to make a comment. Never hesitate to include such discussions: they are invaluable. I try to be very safe in my shop, but I can always learn better ways to do things in my shop-even (especially?) safety related matters. I have only one complaint: your beer can holder doesn’t feature the logo of the San Jose Sharks. GO SHARKS!!!!
Nice vid as ever James - thank you. I bought a second hand band saw which doesn't have a fence. Really need to work out how to make or get an effective and accurate one.
Thanks for all the knowledge. I try to buy tools through your links. Most of them are through Amazon. I despise what they stand for. Is there another way to get you credit? Brad
You are a credit to the craft and wonderfully helpful; your tutorials and explanations are clear, cover almost all possible questions and never talk down
Matthias Wandel has a video on bandsaw physics, and a video on bandsaw bounce. He notes that pushing the workpiece into the blade can make the blade twist out of alignment, causing drift.
Great tip. Any thoughts on spacers and affordable guides for a small home shop? I need my "affordable" bandsaw to make accurate cuts and handle larger stock.
I always feel weird having the fence left of the blade. Also no measuring off the fence rail,but it is the best way to start with a twisted,unplaned,unjointed piece of wood.
Researching the type of saw I need for building DIY built in cabinets and shelves. With limited space, I’m considering a band saw opposed to a table saw. For a beginner, would anyone suggest sticking to a table saw?
Another good vid. I've been doing this for 35 years as a professional, and I still find your site immensely helpful. BTW, are those carbide tipped bandsaw blades worth it?
4:02 "It (the blade) should run down the center of the wheel..." What do you mean by 'centered'? I have seen setups with the center of the blade on the center of the wheel and I have seen the area _just_ behind the gullets centered on thee wheel. How do you do it?
Some say to place the teeth on the center of the tire so the crown of the wheel does not twist the blade slightly, making it more difficult to track a straight line. However, narrow blades (1/4) are not really used to cut long, straight lines, and even if they are, they are not wide enough to see much affect from the crown. Blades that are used for resawing (3/4+) are too wide to place the teeth on the center of the wheel. I suppose if you are using a 3/8-1/2" blade, you might place the teeth on the center.
I have a band saw..but a cheap one. It does okay but I've always wondered if there is some sort of a jig to measure tension. Heard of anything like that? Love the show!
You have any suggestions for the setup with the guides on the bandsaw at the blade I have mine setup that they are just touching top and bottom but I get a loud squelch when I'm cutting I've even watched Alex snodgrass and I've done what he said to do to setup my rikon 10-305
What size blade where you using to do you rip cut on that Harvey bans saw. I ordered a Harvey Ambassador 14 2 days ago and its shipped and want to order some bands for it seems the one that comes with it isn't that great, TY
The teeth of the blade need to be centered on the wheel? That’s what it looked like in that quick clip. I thought you wanted the blade itself centered. Can you clarify please. I want to do it right. Thanks James
@@StumpyNubs no I’m sorry I said teeth because in the video they looked centered, but you were using a narrow 1/4” blade, so I got confused. The blade itself needs to be centered and not the teeth/gullet if you are using something like a wide 3/4” blade, correct? New to bandsaws and I have been using your videos as guides.
I use my bandsaw for all rips. My table saw is poor quality... unsafe.. I do what you mention with jointing a fresh side for each cut. The problem is I end up with trouble at the planer trying to get to the final dimensions. And I do usually set my fence an extra 1/16” to compensate. Seems half the boards come out good and the rest short, which forces me to cut them all short. I’m using all hardwood and it’s frustrating and expensive to start over. Anything you recommend? I suppose just cut them even thicker yet, however the more I passed on the planer the more snipe.
Hi, would you recommend the Harvey C14 bandsaw? Pros and cons with it compared to your secondary Harvey bandsaw or other bandsaws you have used? Thanks
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons. The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches. Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: ruclips.net/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/видео.html The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty. Here's a general video about what to look for in a band saw: ruclips.net/video/sUsKYElDKl0/видео.html Here's a video about choosing band saw guides: ruclips.net/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/видео.html Here's a video about band saw blades: ruclips.net/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/видео.html
Any thoughts on reviewing your bandsaw blade recommendation video if that 6tpi blade is your go-to one for most cuts, compared to the 3-4tpi blades you recommended in that other video as the best general purpose blades to get?
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons. The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches. Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: ruclips.net/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/видео.html The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty. Here's a general video about what to look for in a band saw: ruclips.net/video/sUsKYElDKl0/видео.html Here's a video about choosing band saw guides: ruclips.net/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/видео.html Here's a video about band saw blades: ruclips.net/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/видео.html Here's a video about setting up a band saw: ruclips.net/video/tPRrEgnt7wM/видео.html
Have you seen the bandsaw setup video that the wood whisperer did with Alex Snodgrass a few years ago? Lots of good info and he has a slightly different thought on where the blade should be on the wheels.
@@StumpyNubs Is the difference between where you and Alex align the blade on the wheel due to the width of the blade? It looks like the blade you are showing is about 1 inch wide. I can see where aligning the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel with a blade that wide could have a very large part of the blade unsupported.
I've got an old second hand Rigid 14 in bandsaw that I bought for $75. After a few mods and upgrades, it runs like a champ - smooth as silk. One of the best things I did for setup was follow Alex's advice about centering the gullet, rather than the blade and I get no drift at all.
Yes. Alex says align the gullet on the center of the wheel. That makes sense (the blade teeth are always supported on the crown of the tire) except when using a blade that's too wide. I can't align my 1-inch resaw blade that way because the bearings don't adjust back enough.
Any recommendations on where to go for blades? My bandsaw was a garage sale buy and not high quality. I just want to get used to using one, understand more and figure out what matters to me before investing.
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Other band saw videos►
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This must be the most informative channel on woodworking on YT
It is. I’ve looked
Yes. The most practical and accurate!
I've tried both a table saw and a band saw for my one car garage shop. I found that the bandsaw works best for my workflow, space restrictions, senses, and nerves. I winced every time I fired up my starter Craigslist table saw. The table saw works a treat for jigs and repeatable cuts, but with a bit of retooling, this can also be done with the band saw. I did, however, find that I have to run solid lumber through the saw very slowly to get a straight cut due to the blade's tendency to drift. This is also partially due to it being a budget saw as I wanted to test the waters before saving up and taking the plunge on a higher end model. My band saw feels like a tool while the table saw felt like I was handling live explosives or something all while being parked in the middle of my shop as I did my best to work around it. After the initial band saw blade gave up the ghost, I replaced it with a 1/2" 3TPI positive claw Timber Wolf blade and it has been able to cut everything from resawing hardwoods and exotics to breaking down sheet goods (within reason). Everyone's shop and style will warrant different needs, however. This is just what works best for me.
Phenomenal timing. It's 7 degrees outside and I'm binge watching old Stumpy Nubs videos just as a new one gets posted.
Pfft, is that all? Try -15. Its nice to have in flor heat in my shop :-)
@@johnnorris1546 That would be a dream come true for me. I have a cheapie heater that does ok on cold days. When the temp drops to the single digits that heater just can't keep up.
Love how you keep the explanations jargon free without waffling on, thank you so much stumpy😊
i need to add waffling to my jargon. :)
I rip all my rough sawn lumber on my band saw. I find snapping a chalk line along one edge and ripping it free hand on the band saw saves a lot of passes on the jointer.
It goes back to your table saw video recently, people believe that the tablesaw is the heart of the shop but to be honest I bought my bandsaw first and if I had to sell one it would be the tablesaw. I think when you get creative, the bandsaw is one of the most versatile tools in any shop
Exactly. I ripped the 8/4 rough maple for my workbench with my band saw. I needed roller stands but it was much safer than using the table saw.
I’m new to woodworking and in honesty, I’m several weeks into thinking about putting money aside to get a heftier-than-my-Ryobi bandsaw with a rip fence to replace my tablesaw. I never use wood thicker than 1” and the bandsaw just cuts so much nicer, with the worry of kickback gone.
I just replaced my table saw with my new to me bandsaw. No regrets so far
I make far more straight cuts on my Shopsmith bandsaw than curves, so I totally agree with you. Another great vid, James. Scott
One important thing to remember when using the band saw with used lumber is to be very sure there are no hidden broke off screws or nails in the wood. These blades are not forgiving like the carbide blades on the table saw and one brush either of these objects will ruin the blade.
A few hours before this published, I did a tuneup on a big ol delta in the local High School woodshop. The students will have more consistent cuts and control come Monday morning. I’m definitely going to pass this video along to the shop teacher. Help the kids get years worth of practical understanding in a format they can access and digest!
Thank you again,
Always worth stopping by!
-Castor
Thanks for the advice. I became concerned because of kickback experiences I had from my table saw and was contemplating moving up to a better saw but as I studied I came to realize table saws functionality has a lot of flaws and no manufacturer was addressing the issues. I presently do not have a bandsaw but am now seriously considering purchasing a band saw and try to balance my wood cuts between a bandsaw and table saw.
Solid advice, for sure. ... Even with that, I see there are a small number of people who felt compelled to rank your video negatively. I am left shaking my head at the few people who give a “thumbs down” to indisputable advice such as this and other such well-conceived and delivered videos. I guess some are just consumed with negativity. ... James, keep up the good work!!
I always wonder the same thing. If one doesn't like a video, why spend any time further interacting with it by clicking dislike? I believe that most people click dislike because they're not interested in the subject matter and think that's the way to tell RUclips's algorithm not to continue putting similar videos in their recommended list.
Thanks for the video. Your comment about the correct speed of cut is essential as several things determine what speed is correct. Obviously overfeeding (too fast) leaves a poor cut and the blade can be damaged and too slow also leads to a poor cut as the sawdust is ground too finely for the gullet to carry away the dust and the dust will spill off to the side of the gullet and overheats the blade. Many factors to consider such as horsepower required, guide clearance, tension, etc... but you have the basics right.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thanks for the video. I have two 70's era Sears craftsman 12" bandsaws, but no table saw (money being the issue). I use the 1/2 hp bandsaw with a 3/16" blade for curved cuts, and the 3/4 hp with a 4-toothed 1\2" blade for rips. I've gotten pretty good at ripping free-hand, but it does get old.
Stumpy, I really appreciate your videos. Always very informative and well done. I never finish without learning something or many things! Stay safe out there and cheers from MT
Very timely Mr Nubs! In the past day or so, I've put a new 1" blade on my bandsaw and transformed it from a misunderstood and slightly disliked tool to a ripping monster. I've been rough sawing glazing beads from knarly 1 1/8" oak, and it it so much less stressful (and safer) than on the table saw. As ever, thanks for posting.
Stumpy, or Mr. Nubs
Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions on my band saw and within about 20 minutes of setting up I was able to make some excellent rips.
Thanks
Mike
A good throat plate can be a very useful thing. My band saw was the second power tool I bought. It is - now - an old Rigid saw with a riser installed. I tuned it up and generally have no problems with drift. However, the throat plate with saw is plastic. A neighbor talked me into letting him rip some thin panels for a ukulele. He builds musical instruments and his saw lack the vertical capacity. He brought a home made rip fence and a new half-inch blade. After we installed things and trued the cut, he started to cut. Somehow he managed to catch the blade and his board in such a fashion that the blade punched the lower core of the board through the plastic throat plate and popped the back end upward. It darned near hit him in the chin. I have never had that happen since, but there can be "kick up" under some circumstances.
The bandsaw has been one of my favorite go-to tools for many years, it is safe and very versatile, from curves, to making venner to cutting dovetails, a properly tuned bandsaw cant be beat! After watching your video, i decided to offer a little support for your youtube channel and give Harvey a try. I am in the market for a sliding table for my new SS, I called them three times to get answers to a couple of questions and to order it and after three days without a return call, i'm going to give up and buy the SS version. SS has great customer service and they actually answer their phone and call you back! thanks for your videos, i truly enjoy all of them.
Bandsaws are the best shop tool and you can’t change my mind!
I bought my own bandsaw when I was 14, and I’ve had it for 8 years now. I use it for everything. A second bandsaw would be really handy for a resaw blade. But it’s easy enough to change them out when I have to.
Thank you once again. I really appreciate your wood work intuition, tips, and tricks.
I'm having a frustrating time tuning my 1939 Walker-Turner bandsaw, but your video gives me hope that I might solve it.
Thank you.
It's amazing that you KEEP coming up with such great content. Thanks for these videos. I am always larning something new or relearning something I forgot.
Bandsaws are excellent and versatile tools. They are better and safer for ripping than table saws, hands down, especially if you are working with rough sawn stock or any other stock that is not dead flat.
Just avoid cheap bandsaws and cheap blades, if you can, and use the proper blade size and configuration for the application at hand. Good setup and appropriate cutting speed are crucial, as you point out.
Excellent video. Thanks!
You can't beat the safety of a bandsaw, considering what it's capable of doing. It's also the easiest saw to have effective dust collection.
@@NoNORADon911 it’s hard to do much ripping on a miter daw though.
I recently acquired an old very solid bandsaw and agree completely that it's great for safely rip cutting timber that would be a bit sketchy on a table saw. I now don't know how I did without it! Also, I agree with your comments about drift - sharp blade with correctly set up saw should not drift.
Great content and delivery. Would love so see more videos that address the characteristics and shortcomings of the popular 9" benchtop bandsaws, including compensating for inadequate fences, small tables, building simple jigs that will work on tables without miter slots, etc.
I really like your clear, no nonsense explanations. I am a newbie and have gotten some great tips from your videos.
Bandsaw is one of my favorite tools.
I have an old Delta offshore ripoff machine I was given and while I got it setup and running well now (only a few hundred dollars into the "free" machine to do after fixing guides/blades/belts) I just added a Kreg fence to it... and holy hell did it give the machine a new life for me. I was basically just using for free-hand cuts before and annoyed with the cleanup work to make a nice edge... but even with my 3 tooth per inch blade it is so much nicer to rip boards. All I need to do now is get a dust collection hose hooked up to it and a mobile base and I can run it for long rips instead of my job-site table saw.
It's funny you posted this video today. I purchased a new Kreg bandsaw fence for my new Jet 14" bandsaw and a new 3/4 inch 3 tip re-saw blade and spent quite some time fine tuning the bearings and drift. I ended up re-sawing a 2x8 to 1/16 inch veneer and boy an I happy with the results. All of this using the techniques you mentioned in your video. I'm a huge fan of your efforts. Please keep up the good work. Todd in NH.
Continually giving the best advice on youtube. Every video. Thank you so much for all the shared knowledge.
Thank you for a great video with many valuable tips. I've been struggling trying to rip with a band saw and just cleaned the accumulated dust in the teeth. Considering a 4 tpi blade thanks to your confirmation. I get smoke when I've tried so far.
I do believe you are the first you tuber to say to lower the guard to just above the wood. I've always wondered why everyone doesn't say and do that.
+1 Stumpy's wisdom is golden once again. The bandsaw was originally designed to cut MEAT - like your fingers or arms - so SHOW SOME RESPECT - do what he says, and you can waste less wood and get your projects done. Mine is a Luguna, with their main Resaw King attached and it is beyond awesome for anything I have EVER used. However, it's wide and only suitable for resaw "curves need not apply." When that happens, I use the Highland hardware items with HUGE gullets as they are great at making it work on random limbs. Let's not dance around the subject internet users: Stumpy does his homework. Our money now, more than ever, is precious. I have NEVER been steered wrong by one of his recommendations. So just 'cause I went one way a couple years ago, doesn't mean I'm not smarter now and purchase from his recommended businesses. I DO NOT get any sort of kickback, but appreciate Harvey tools and his saw blade dudes - because they are small businesses who give a S*&^%. Made in America - trite - but accurate. Let's band together and make some dust eh? Rock on 10-fingered crowd!
Excellent tutorial, easy to watch, easy to understand.
The band saw has a special place in my heart. So fun to use and as long as you keep your fingers away, I think it's one of the safest tools in the shop!
Believe it or not, I know someone who cut off a finger at the band saw.
@@StumpyNubs I DO believe that haha.
@@StumpyNubs back in the day (50 years ago) when the neighborhood store included a meat cutter, many butchers were either missing a finger, or two, or had the web between their thumb and index finger mangled. The band saw by it being relatively quiet and benign looking, often instills a false sense of security resulting in taking a piece of finger to the ER for reattachment. I too have started to do more and more of my ripping on the band saw. I also bought my newest blades from the company you recommended a while ago. They are great blades and less expensive than some of the big name brands I've used in the past.
The Ellis 1600 is a fantastic bandsaw. It's more for metal work than wood, but it does both horizontal and vertical cuts, plus has a 1" wide blade. Very useful machine.
Rather than skew the fence to compensate for blade drift you should adjust the table position. Michael Fortune has a great video on the Fine Woodworking web site showing how to do this. Took 10 minutes to do mine and now the fence stays parallel to the miter slot and rip cuts are free of blade drift!
I had a particularly nasty piece of maple stall out my table saw. When I finished the cut on the bandsaw, there was a 3/4 inch gap between the two boards if I held them side by side. That's how much the wood bowed apart when the tension was released.
I have made this one of my core channels. Well done.
Drift can be eliminated by using your line on a board example but use the fence not free hand and make adjustments until the line is followed with no drift. May take multiple lines.
Bandsaw is one of the most used power tool in my shop
Hi there, great videos , I’m a site carpenter/ kitchen fitter , now in my late 50s I’m starting to plan my workshop for cabinet / joinery making , always dreamed of having one .
Planning to buy some machines soon and your videos help me with the areas I’m not familiar with in the work shop,
Just like to say I’ve just subscribed and enjoy your videos, 👍
Ken (from uk)
I really love band saws, they aren't nowhere scary as table saws, you can rip warped twisted lumber without major risks and then with the jointer you make them flat, square, smooth and ready for the table saw/router.
I just got a band saw so really enjoyed this! Thank you
Appreciate your content. Always my first stop with a shop question
Nice video- very helpful. I made a tall aux fence for my bandsaw that helps me re-saw wide boards. One pass through the planer makes them just right. I use my bandsaw for lots of little odd cuts because its right there ready to go. My table saw is a portable so I have to drag it out and set it up for anything I do with it. PS- I got a set of ISO Tunes headphones like the ones on your bench for Christmas from my son. I told him to use your discount code. Thanks
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
I've been searching for a band saw to buy for months already, but I still couldn't find any here in Brazil... But I won't give it up! 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the great video James! I have found that a good wide blade in my Shopsmith bandsaw is excellent for ripping boards.
I have a Record Power bandsaw, bought brand new a few years ago. It is very accurate and I love it. I wouldn't buy any other brand of bandsaw.
I agree, its a beautiful machine and runs like Swiss watch
These days I watch your videos on my HD TV, so I cannot make comments. However, your recent video included a portion about SHOP SAFETY, so I switched to my iPhone in order to make a comment.
Never hesitate to include such discussions: they are invaluable. I try to be very safe in my shop, but I can always learn better ways to do things in my shop-even (especially?) safety related matters.
I have only one complaint: your beer can holder doesn’t feature the logo of the San Jose Sharks. GO SHARKS!!!!
Nice vid as ever James - thank you.
I bought a second hand band saw which doesn't have a fence. Really need to work out how to make or get an effective and accurate one.
You can cut curves on the bandsaw? :-) I mostly do rips and resawing on mine. It's my only power tool.
Thanks James, very valuable information for us today. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred. 👏🏻👏🏻👍👍✅
Thanks for all the knowledge.
I try to buy tools through your links.
Most of them are through Amazon. I despise what they stand for. Is there another way to get you credit? Brad
Great video James. Sure beat that crummy halftime show
That Harvey band saw gives me tool envy!
You are a credit to the craft and wonderfully helpful; your tutorials and explanations are clear, cover almost all possible questions and never talk down
Matthias Wandel has a video on bandsaw physics, and a video on bandsaw bounce. He notes that pushing the workpiece into the blade can make the blade twist out of alignment, causing drift.
I enjoy his videos. Thanks for the recommendation.
Great tip. Any thoughts on spacers and affordable guides for a small home shop? I need my "affordable" bandsaw to make accurate cuts and handle larger stock.
I really needed this vid to make me feel better about a future decision. Thanks! :-)
Now if could find a fence for my old craftsman band saw..... lol excellent and helpful video
I always feel weird having the fence left of the blade. Also no measuring off the fence rail,but it is the best way to start with a twisted,unplaned,unjointed piece of wood.
Thanks James.
Thanks for the tips and tricks.
Great channel, been looking to buy a bandsaw, best wishes from East Sussex
Thank you it was a very helpful video.
Brilliant tutorial!! Thank you.
Can you do a review on you Harvey band saws? Tryingto decide between it and a powermatic
Researching the type of saw I need for building DIY built in cabinets and shelves.
With limited space, I’m considering a band saw opposed to a table saw.
For a beginner, would anyone suggest sticking to a table saw?
thank you. Im looking to buy a band saw
Another good vid. I've been doing this for 35 years as a professional, and I still find your site immensely helpful. BTW, are those carbide tipped bandsaw blades worth it?
They are definitely worth it for resawing. I get a smoother surface and they last WAY longer.
You left out the biggest benefit for ripping on the bandsaw, the table saw is always piled to the ceiling with crap
And your workbench. LOL
@@rcort4864 you've been over to my shop, I see....
@@sameoldmphymel LOL
Where do you buy your bandsaw blades? I just purchased a new Harvey 615P
4:02 "It (the blade) should run down the center of the wheel..." What do you mean by 'centered'? I have seen setups with the center of the blade on the center of the wheel and I have seen the area _just_ behind the gullets centered on thee wheel. How do you do it?
Some say to place the teeth on the center of the tire so the crown of the wheel does not twist the blade slightly, making it more difficult to track a straight line. However, narrow blades (1/4) are not really used to cut long, straight lines, and even if they are, they are not wide enough to see much affect from the crown. Blades that are used for resawing (3/4+) are too wide to place the teeth on the center of the wheel. I suppose if you are using a 3/8-1/2" blade, you might place the teeth on the center.
@@StumpyNubs I take that to mean you are putting the center of the blade on the center (crown) of the wheel.
There is no way you can have a woodchuck without advance so I've loved my damn so mine is a Grizzly bandsaw
I have a band saw..but a cheap one. It does okay but I've always wondered if there is some sort of a jig to measure tension. Heard of anything like that? Love the show!
There are digital gauges, but they are expensive and unnecessary.
@@StumpyNubs Don't leave me hangin'. Do you pluck it and listen for an A or G? Guitar tuner ? -)
@@DennisMathias I'll make a video :)
Great job buddy I learned a lot!
You have any suggestions for the setup with the guides on the bandsaw at the blade I have mine setup that they are just touching top and bottom but I get a loud squelch when I'm cutting I've even watched Alex snodgrass and I've done what he said to do to setup my rikon 10-305
What size blade where you using to do you rip cut on that Harvey bans saw. I ordered a Harvey Ambassador 14 2 days ago and its shipped and want to order some bands for it seems the one that comes with it isn't that great, TY
The teeth of the blade need to be centered on the wheel? That’s what it looked like in that quick clip.
I thought you wanted the blade itself centered. Can you clarify please. I want to do it right. Thanks James
I am not sure I said the teeth, did I?
I believe you want the bottom of the gullet centered. if I'm not mistaken.
@@StumpyNubs no I’m sorry I said teeth because in the video they looked centered, but you were using a narrow 1/4” blade, so I got confused. The blade itself needs to be centered and not the teeth/gullet if you are using something like a wide 3/4” blade, correct? New to bandsaws and I have been using your videos as guides.
Great information, just like always
Would it make sense to get the bandsaw before the table saw when the budget is constrained? Or should it be the other way around?
Un buen video explicativo. Un saludo
Great job, thanks for your videos
I use my bandsaw for all rips. My table saw is poor quality... unsafe.. I do what you mention with jointing a fresh side for each cut. The problem is I end up with trouble at the planer trying to get to the final dimensions. And I do usually set my fence an extra 1/16” to compensate. Seems half the boards come out good and the rest short, which forces me to cut them all short. I’m using all hardwood and it’s frustrating and expensive to start over. Anything you recommend? I suppose just cut them even thicker yet, however the more I passed on the planer the more snipe.
Some great tips here, I don't own a bandsaw, but I will need to tell my wife I need two bandsaws, right? That's what you meant? hehehe :)
Hi, would you recommend the Harvey C14 bandsaw? Pros and cons with it compared to your secondary Harvey bandsaw or other bandsaws you have used?
Thanks
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons.
The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: ruclips.net/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/видео.html
The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty.
Here's a general video about what to look for in a band saw: ruclips.net/video/sUsKYElDKl0/видео.html
Here's a video about choosing band saw guides: ruclips.net/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/видео.html
Here's a video about band saw blades: ruclips.net/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/видео.html
Any thoughts on reviewing your bandsaw blade recommendation video if that 6tpi blade is your go-to one for most cuts, compared to the 3-4tpi blades you recommended in that other video as the best general purpose blades to get?
I only use the 6tpi because it is on the saw, not because it is the best blade for rips.
I always enjoy your insight!
Great information
when cutting where does your piece go on the left of the blade or to the right?
Thank you Sir 😊
Stumpy, im considering the Ambassador 14" band saw for resawing at 1749+359 shipping how does it compare to the other band saws in your shop?
I own both the Harvery C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons.
The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: ruclips.net/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/видео.html
The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty.
Here's a general video about what to look for in a band saw: ruclips.net/video/sUsKYElDKl0/видео.html
Here's a video about choosing band saw guides: ruclips.net/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/видео.html
Here's a video about band saw blades: ruclips.net/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/видео.html
Here's a video about setting up a band saw: ruclips.net/video/tPRrEgnt7wM/видео.html
Great, thanks for sharing that!
Have you seen the bandsaw setup video that the wood whisperer did with Alex Snodgrass a few years ago? Lots of good info and he has a slightly different thought on where the blade should be on the wheels.
I know Alex from the show circuit. He knows his stuff!
@@StumpyNubs Is the difference between where you and Alex align the blade on the wheel due to the width of the blade? It looks like the blade you are showing is about 1 inch wide. I can see where aligning the deepest part of the gullet in the center of the wheel with a blade that wide could have a very large part of the blade unsupported.
I've got an old second hand Rigid 14 in bandsaw that I bought for $75. After a few mods and upgrades, it runs like a champ - smooth as silk. One of the best things I did for setup was follow Alex's advice about centering the gullet, rather than the blade and I get no drift at all.
Yes. Alex says align the gullet on the center of the wheel. That makes sense (the blade teeth are always supported on the crown of the tire) except when using a blade that's too wide. I can't align my 1-inch resaw blade that way because the bearings don't adjust back enough.
Thank you, James. I knew you'd have a common sense answer.
Any recommendations on where to go for blades? My bandsaw was a garage sale buy and not high quality. I just want to get used to using one, understand more and figure out what matters to me before investing.
sawblade.com
@@StumpyNubs thank you