Hi, one of the very first lessons I was taught was never to use your fingers to clear or remove swarf. Seeing you repeatedly running your fingers along and round the thread made my blood run cold!
Hi Mark. I own a Warco WM280B. I haven't had a go at thread cutting but one thing that occurred to me watching your video was that I reckon it's a good idea to knock the apex of the thread form off with a file before trial fitting the nut. I reckon the apex might be raggy and very sharp. You want the flanks of the thread form to be a nice fit on the nut not a super sharp apex.
Good video Mark well presented. nice to see Warco content as I have a WM240. Looking forward to more. For safety though please hold the file end between your thumb and finger not pushing it towards the chuck and treat yourself to a longer piece of emery to keep your knuckles away from danger. Most important of all keep that small short file with no handle away from the lathe altogether! Regards Arthur
I have the Chester DB10VS which is basically the same machine. I notice that yours stops dead whereas mine has no ‘snap’ on the brake and slows to a stop. Obviously this would make screw cutting this method impossible.
@@markshomeengineering5243 I’ve used that method a few times in the past (I’m a turner by trade) but just find it an inconvenience. My Chester has the thread dial but it’s free moving, even with a light touch it could easily lose pitch.
Very good vid on screw cutting Mark.I have the same lathe and i have to say that making sense of setting up the gear train has proven difficult. I wondered how you found the process of setting up for the right thread.The noisy gear train is the same for me too.As i am of a machine operating background(many years ago) the groove for the thread was called an undercut.Before the thread was cut we turned the od put a chamfer or lead on the end and an undercut at the end of the thread and then proceeded with the screw cutting.Oh joy.
A commendable first effort at the often misunderstood art of threading. If I may comment, the top slide and the compound slide are the same thing, top being the English name and compound being the American, although with a lot of RUclips machinists being Yankee newbies are calling the top a compound. What you got wrong was the name for the cross slide, the main in and out one.
Hi folks, with a variable speed lathe the 'safe' method of not disengaging the lead screw works very well even for long threads as the carriage return can be quickly speeded up. With these twin taper bearing spindles it's also possible to cut the thread when moving away from the chuck - so much less stressful! BobUK.
Interesting, but it seems a lot of trouble (and time) when you could just use a die. What’s the advantage of using a lathe? Sorry if the answer is obvious (except to me) 😊
It's a fair question with a number of answers. First, yes I agree a die would be much easier and quicker, but the only die I had to hand was blunt, so was relegated to the bin; As with many of my projects, it's more about the challenge of doing something new, or in this case long forgotten; Finally, my next proper project will to be turn a steering stem for the yokes I have recently made for my Moto Guzzi. The top of the stem has an M25×1mm thread which I don't have a die for and will need to run true, so I'll cut it on the lathe.
Hi Mark i have the same chart on my machine before they were called warco they were toolco. My question is how does the chart relate to the extra gears i have and what levers or buttons do i use to cut metric pitch threads ? Thank you.
@@JaySingh-ex6xc tool co and warco are two totally different companies ,Warco has been trading for over 40 years. both import from the same Chinese factory but I am unsure whether the tool co product is of a similar quality to the warco models.
Hi Skysurfer - yeah, they're not the easiest to understand! And even then, fitting them is a pain. Next time I do some single point thread cutting I'll try and cover this off. Cheers Mark
Hi, I am using the compound to increase the depth of cut every pass - so the tool is going into the cut at the angle set. I set the top slide to zero for the scratch cut and return to zero after I have backed out and reversed the machine to get the tool ready for the next pass. Cheers Mark
Hi, one of the very first lessons I was taught was never to use your fingers to clear or remove swarf. Seeing you repeatedly running your fingers along and round the thread made my blood run cold!
Hi Mark. I own a Warco WM280B. I haven't had a go at thread cutting but one thing that occurred to me watching your video was that I reckon it's a good idea to knock the apex of the thread form off with a file before trial fitting the nut. I reckon the apex might be raggy and very sharp. You want the flanks of the thread form to be a nice fit on the nut not a super sharp apex.
Good video Mark well presented. nice to see Warco content as I have a WM240. Looking forward to more. For safety though please hold the file end between your thumb and finger not pushing it towards the chuck and treat yourself to a longer piece of emery to keep your knuckles away from danger. Most important of all keep that small short file with no handle away from the lathe altogether!
Regards Arthur
I have the Chester DB10VS which is basically the same machine. I notice that yours stops dead whereas mine has no ‘snap’ on the brake and slows to a stop. Obviously this would make screw cutting this method impossible.
Go Check out Jo Pie's video as he does it in reverse, so a dead stop is not required.
ruclips.net/video/Z-dqOi_z5bk/видео.html
@@markshomeengineering5243 I’ve used that method a few times in the past (I’m a turner by trade) but just find it an inconvenience. My Chester has the thread dial but it’s free moving, even with a light touch it could easily lose pitch.
@@jubbaronnyit sounds the same as the thread dial on mine, it's bloody useless 🤯
Very good vid on screw cutting Mark.I have the same lathe and i have to say that making sense of setting up the gear train has proven difficult.
I wondered how you found the process of setting up for the right thread.The noisy gear train is the same for me too.As i am of a machine operating
background(many years ago) the groove for the thread was called an undercut.Before the thread was cut we turned the od put a chamfer or lead on the end and an undercut at the end
of the thread and then proceeded with the screw cutting.Oh joy.
Hi Mark,
A good walk though video of thread cutting.
Take care
Paul,,
A commendable first effort at the often misunderstood art of threading.
If I may comment, the top slide and the compound slide are the same thing, top being the English name and compound being the American, although with a lot of RUclips machinists being Yankee newbies are calling the top a compound. What you got wrong was the name for the cross slide, the main in and out one.
Are you pleased with the Warco WM50V? I am thinking of purchasing one.
I am very pleased with it Anthony.
It has its limitations/shortcomings, but nothing that I've not been able to work around.
Hi folks, with a variable speed lathe the 'safe' method of not disengaging the lead screw works very well even for long threads as the carriage return can be quickly speeded up. With these twin taper bearing spindles it's also possible to cut the thread when moving away from the chuck - so much less stressful! BobUK.
Interesting, but it seems a lot of trouble (and time) when you could just use a die. What’s the advantage of using a lathe? Sorry if the answer is obvious (except to me) 😊
It's a fair question with a number of answers.
First, yes I agree a die would be much easier and quicker, but the only die I had to hand was blunt, so was relegated to the bin;
As with many of my projects, it's more about the challenge of doing something new, or in this case long forgotten;
Finally, my next proper project will to be turn a steering stem for the yokes I have recently made for my Moto Guzzi. The top of the stem has an M25×1mm thread which I don't have a die for and will need to run true, so I'll cut it on the lathe.
@@markshomeengineering5243 Thanks. I totally get it for those larger threads. Never thought of that.
Hi Mark i have the same chart on my machine before they were called warco they were toolco. My question is how does the chart relate to the extra gears i have and what levers or buttons do i use to cut metric pitch threads ?
Thank you.
@@JaySingh-ex6xc tool co and warco are two totally different companies ,Warco has been trading for over 40 years. both import from the same Chinese factory but I am unsure whether the tool co product is of a similar quality to the warco models.
An explanation of the changegears would be extremely useful, those charts/tables are totally baffling to me.
Hi Skysurfer - yeah, they're not the easiest to understand!
And even then, fitting them is a pain. Next time I do some single point thread cutting I'll try and cover this off.
Cheers
Mark
You mentioned that you were using the compound but the compound seems to be at an angle. Did you mean to say stop slide instead?
Hi,
I am using the compound to increase the depth of cut every pass - so the tool is going into the cut at the angle set. I set the top slide to zero for the scratch cut and return to zero after I have backed out and reversed the machine to get the tool ready for the next pass.
Cheers
Mark
I would like o have seen how he set up the levers, the top slide and which slide used to set cut depth.