Junkyard find! Trash boat, will it float??
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- This boat looks like trash. It's been sitting for three years, it's ripped on the side, flat, and dirty as all heck. Can it be restored? The answer may surprise you! Or should I scrap it and start over?? This and more on this episode of Sailing Zingaro.
❤️
Patreon: / svzingaro
Paypal: www.paypal.me/...
Merch: www.bonfire.co...
👇
Website: sailingzingaro...
Facebook: / svzingaro
Instagram: / sailing_zingaro
👨👩👦👦
OC Tenders: octenders.co.nz/
Spectra Watermakers: www.spectrawat...
Turt Sunglasses: turtsunglasses...
Kraken Structures: / seamonsterstrong
[MUSIC]
Epidemic Sound
Congratulations! Kim was lucky to have you at her side, and I hope the two of you have many more adventures in the future.
For the 2 inch thru hull in the head. Remove the hose and spray in lubricant, spray from bottom as well. You have time so let it sit. Hit it with heat from a torch if needed, keep a fire extinguisher handy and some wet rags to draw the heat away from the glass is needed. Or pull it out and do the above. I have the same ones on my boat and they are well oversized (as in can handle a lot of pressure) for the actual work (pressure) they have to contend with day to day.
Oh James.....you are a dreamer for sure. Like Don Quixote you see what you want to see. Quixote saw giants while others saw windmills. And you my friend see a beautiful boat while others see a complete disaster. This thing is a HOT MESS. You can put lipstick on a pig but it will still be a pig. I wish you the best of luck with this thing. I just hope you have a dollar to your name once you are done doing a total and complete refit. I am starting to think it would have been cheaper for you to but a brand new oyster. Best of luck. You are going to need it.
James.. for the 2+" thru hull valve you do not necessarily need to replace it. Have you tried using a phosphoric acid wash on the valves? You can flood the valves, flush and or run phosphoric acid through the valve, and use PB Blaster on the outside of the valve. It sjould free them up and allow you to wait on replacing them.
Also, you can temporarily bypass the sink macerator pump and go straight to the thru hull as long as it is just gray wster.
Hope this helps.
It may be a lot of money now but you’re still gonna have to buy one sooner or later and it’s cheaper than hauling a boat out for the one valve. If it was me I’m getting the valve and putting it in now.
I agree, Duane.
Absolutely. Consodering there will be 7 pps onboard, one head is... tough. Sooner, the better. You don't think about this when you are overwelmed by the amount of work, but you should always prioritice basic needs. Water, bed, head.
I agree, do everything under the waterline that should be done now while the boat is out of the water. It will save money when you look at the bigger picture. It's a gamble to leave a repair until a later haul out for other reasons (repainting antifoul, prop maintenance, etc.) and have that repair cost you a haul out plus the cost of that repair.
Couldn’t agree more
@@dmmaddex ruclips.net/video/aTvOFYYCJXo/видео.html
I can relate to what you are going through, with the laundry list of little items to repair. Its not in my nature to focus on one thing at a time, but so far its the only way I can make progress on the boat repair/refitting. I started just making the list, and prioritizing and getting each thing knocked out one at a time. Keep kicking ass, smooth sailing!
We've been able to clean up a lot of through hulls with white vinegar. It's amazing what the stuff does. Flush it down the heads and it'll clean the hosing and seacocks. As for the large aft blackwater valve, try putting a torch or heat gun to it. You don't want to get so hot that it melts the nylon seals inside, but I bet you can free that up. Once working, close it and brush marine grease on the ball from below, then work the valve around until it gets better. It's the blackwater valves that seize up easiest. The fresh water ones should be cleaned with vinegar so you can see the metal. You really need a conical softwood plug of the appropriate size tied with string to every through hull (so it can't float away). All the rusted hose clamps have to go too. BTW, you can flush diluted hydrochloric acid (Aqua Forte) down the Jabsco heads. It's only bleach that you want to never use.
Totally dig the new intro
I'm assumimg you have the diesel pumped out by now. You got the basic batteries and dinghy fixed, focus on the rudder, bottom paint and through-hulls/valves. Get those done asap then splash her. If you have time already paid for on the hard do the buffing, but hatches, hoses, portlights, etc can all be done on the water just as easily. Good luck, you got this.
Hi James, check the big red handle grips in your tool kit, they should slide to fit larger fittings than your shifting wrench. They have been known to shred the edges of fittings if used improperly. Take it easy.
My philosophy is "change/fix everything that could sink/damage the boat if left alone"... which means, I'd replace all through-hulls, all relevant hoses/pipes regardless of how they look. I'm paranoid though, and do not trust anyone's work if I can avoid it.
Agreed to change hoses etc dry rot can be deceptive
I’m always amazed at people comments. To quote Tumper from the Disney movie Bambi, “If you don’t have anything good to say, don’t say anything at all”.
James, keep going and don’t loose the dream. Make a list and work your list prioritize. Love the adventure and watching your progress.
Stoked to see this thing in the water soon. Keep it up!
Good luck james. Epic project. hope you are on the water soon.
You can use Cutter misquote replant to get the Acrylic plastic tarnish off.. works great. Spray and wipe..not as good as new..but close...works on headlights too!
James, congrats on the beautiful Oyster. It will make a great liveaboard. The more jobs you tick off the list now, the longer you can wait for the next haul out. So take your time:
1) Considering the erosion that has taken place on the through-hulls fittings, I would definitely replace all of them. If you replace all but one, you will always be wondering if that last one is going to be the one that sinks your boat.
2) While you´re at it replace all hoses and hose-clamps, for safety and sanitary reasons. New plumbing will make the boat feel, smell and taste NEW! - Expensive but worth it.. After all it´s your new home!
3) Fix your holding tank if possible or get a new one. You will run into problems without one..
4) Prioritize the watermaker repair. As far as I understood, it has failed? I guess this is pretty obvious..
5) Keep the old Epirb if its functional. They are 300+ usd
6) Keep the dinghy if it holds air. Money saved! Check if its made from PVC or Hypalon. The latter should last 10-20 yrs
7) Drop the rudder and service or change the bushing. It will give you peace of mind and help preserve your autopilot, when you bring that one back to life.. (I am no expert, but it looks like the rudder has water ingress? What do you think)
- Lots of projects, but the boat really cleaned up fast. A very sound platform
Forward head - pull the tank & all the bad hoses, get a plug that fits the thru-hull tie it to the fitting and replace the thru-hull and tank when you can afford to do it right
HiJames, I am a old sea dog, and have owned Oyster 55, a few years ago, and completed a major refit. The through hull fittings will be high quality bronze. They should last a lifetime. They will also be very hard to remove. The fittings attached to them look poor, so I would remove fittings, then inspect through hull before decision to replace. Also don’t be shy at contacting Oyster they are very helpful in all respects. Good luck!
great advice!
@@kevio6868 ruclips.net/video/aTvOFYYCJXo/видео.html
I'm about to embark on the same journey... It's inspiration to watch your videos. Thank you and stay sane brother.
This video reminds me twhen you were building Zingaro.
Looking much more happy good stuff
Hi James. I love the macerator pumps. I have 2 in the Riva I wrote you about. I will be putting them in my new cat as well. You don’t want clogged lines on a bigger boat that has multiple heads. Mine are really powerful and are original, made in Italy.
Having lived in old motorhomes and boats, I would go with a push button for the water pumps instead of pressurized. That way if you ever develop a leak it won't run out your water and batteries.
Favorite channel on RUclips right now! Love the VLog format.
"HiJames, I am a old sea dog, and have owned Oyster 55, a few years ago, and completed a major refit. The through hull fittings will be high quality bronze. They should last a lifetime. They will also be very hard to remove. The fittings attached to them look poor, so I would remove fittings, then inspect through hull before decision to replace. Also don’t be shy at contacting Oyster they are very helpful in all respects. Good luck "
Another tip on that sea strainer clean it also with muriatic acid. If you can not get the pipe fittings loose heat it with a propane torch get nice and hot then quench in a bucket of cold water. The basket is only 25% of the price of a new one. If only the strap handle is bad cut it off. You can weld in a new one, I have used a piece of stainless steel welding rod as a replacement handle.
Tammie commenting again...You are very patient. You have a crap-ton of work to do but you're getting it done man. Keeping your eye on the prize! It truly is a prize. Sending lots of encouragement your way!
Make a list on a board. That will make your jobs a lot simpler and not get overwhelmed. A lot to do in lots of small bits.
Bit by bit, slowly but surely, inch by inch, everything is getting done !
I love your determination man, at times you sound like you are a bit overwhelmed by the amount of work you have to do but then you show that it is getting done and you are ticking jobs off the list !
In the final clip you show a freshly painted bottom and a polished top side and the boat looking really good, it's also evident that your mood and enthusiasm is way higher than in earlier clips, which is very encouraging to see !
I know the reality of tackling that amount of work on your own is going to have an effect on your mood but after all the setbacks and challenges that you have tackled over the past couple of years, you really have reached a point in your life when you can tackle just about anything with confidence. Sometimes we need to be challenged in order to see what we are capable of !
Great work man and that boat is just incredible !
Raw video works for you buddy. You're a star. Brings back so many memories of when I rebuilt my own boat. Actually miss those days.
Hello,
I too rescued a 41' Coronado and had tons of issues with old rusty thru-hull valves. After several cracked knuckles, smashed fingers, bloody hands, and oh so colorful language, as these valves are never in an easy place to service with ANY size wrench, it always seems that one needs a bigger wrench that will fit in there. Add to the fact that the hole in the boat may be rotten, although on your boat it is solid fiberglass, mine was not, so some peripheral rot to deal with, I in my infinite wisdom thought to drill out the bad valve.
A decent hole saw bit is only a few dollars, and after drilling it out, I was even more upset. Total time screwing around trying to loosen the valve and lots of bodily damage, no success, several hours. Total time to drill it out, this part really sucks, 1 minute with strong 1/2 electric drill. I then used the same drill bit to make a wooden plug, and then reglassed the hole. Later I drilled a new hole to place the valve in a better position for use and servicing. So several benefits.
1. Save your hands, knuckles, and preserve your blood and mental state.
2. Much faster to drill it out.
3. Create new plug, and glass it over.
4. Relocate valve to a better place for use and ongoing servicing.
Just my 10 cents on this issue as I sit here and look at the scars on my hand and as a former musician I like you, cringe when I think of the harm that may come to my fingers.
Food for thought. Good luck, and I predict the girl will come back.
Skipper Andy - ramblings of an old Viking Sailor.
Yeah, replace all the thru holes, better safe than sorry! Nice boat
Need to open your computer up and clean out the dust with a can of air and clean paint brush. There are tutorials on youtube but my advice is to diagram all the placements of the screws and masking tape them to the diagram so they don't get lost, you don't lose track and they go exactly where you took them out of. If you're feeling braver remove the heat sink from the processor, clean off the heat sink paste with rubbing alcohol and reapply fresh paste, size of a grain of rice. That will make an even bigger difference than just dusting alone. Get a product called Krud Kutter for all the rusted and corroded stuff. It works wonders.
Do all the thru valves now, you fix stuff quickly most of the time, at some point you are going to want that head, fix all the "haul out crap you can now, you won't be sorry" Best sailing video going! Keep em coming, just a great watch! Love the boat! It's going to be awesome!
Thats why I watch your videos. You are real.
Its one step forward then two back?
Kimmy was the brains! Lol
Hahaha, more like the angel of practicality whispering in your ear and keeping you on course during a rogue wind.
There's another "Kimmy" out there. The world is his oyster
Kiwi fruit are the result of hybriding the Chinese Gooseberry. The result was a fruit larger in size, more juice but with a watered down flavour. They changed the name to Kiwi Fruit because, well they couldn’t start exporting it from NZ as Chinese Gooseberry. The Chinese Gooseberry also had more coarse hairs. I grew un in NZ in the ‘60s eating them but we had to be careful not to let the hairs touch our tongues. It would cause the tongue to itch terribly. The KiwiFriut are put through a process that removes most of the hairs so I don’t know if they have the same effect.
I would change all the thru hulls while it is out of the water, but not the valves, just cap the ones you don't need now. You can remove the cap and put a new valve on while it's it the water pretty easy, I've done it on my boat before.
You can do this man.
In 2002/2003 I sailed a 1995 Oyster 61 20,000 miles from England to Russia and on to New Zealand. Your little sistership brings back a lot of memories! Some suggestions - First, the joinery and finishes on the boat don’t seem that bad, so it’s absolutely critical that you PROTECT THE BOAT. Get a couple of thick towels, or even better ‘moving blankets’, and some random sized pieces of plywood and plastic sheets. Always cover and protect the finish and wood work anywhere you’re working. Never put a tool or a part down on an unprotected surface. Never turn a tool or exert force towards an unprotected surface. In particular be careful with those beautiful fiddles around all the horizontal surfaces, it’s very easy to dent and degrade the top edges of them. When you have a nice boat like this, this is an incredibly important discipline. Otherwise it’s easy to do a lot of expensive cosmetic damage very fast, and it only takes a few extra moments and some mental discipline to do it. Second - before you buff the topsides check what’s there; if it’s gel coat, fine. If it’s Awlgrip (which it kinda looks like) DO NOT BUFF IT. In that case, wipe it down with lots of plain white vinegar, then Awlwash, then Awlcare. You buff it, you ruin it. Last one - unless you get some storage to empty the boat, stand up the cushions on the over under bunks and put everything there, make the rest of the boat as empty as you can. Much easier to do stuff.
I know it's overwhelming brother, but you have a kickass boat and once you sail that beast once, all of those hours spent working on it will dissipate into pure joy!
Great progress James! Nice to see you were able to get 400ah lithium for that price. I would just eat some more rust and replace that front head thru hull now to avoid any unforeseen problem and it gives you the necessary second for planned crew. Peace
Make sure your hook ups on your 6v batteries and use a tester at the end of batteries for 24v. Then go to whatever doesn’t work with 24v and test backwards towards the batteries... each circuit.... isolate each to diagnose ... EASY PEASY!!!
Yummy kiwi!! Best marinade for fish and chicken 2 kiwis, 2 tablespoon of olive oil, 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar and a dash of salt n pepper 🤗 Your living my dream babez!! I literally sold my pool n spa business in February and started selling everything to buy a boat and sail away..... and then......COVID-19!!! I watch all your videos hellz I watch everyone’s sailing videos to learn all I can because one day soon I hope to be right where you are.....living your dream!! Cheerz babez best of luck with all your repairs xo
Did you buy a boat yet?
If/when you do please start a channel.....everyone will follow!
keep the toilet pump straight out , it feeds the fish, you don't want to feed them soup. You can easily replace the holding tank later, I'm a great fan of plastic tanks, cheaper lighter and don't corrode. If you leave the thru hole in place maybe a wooden plug from the outside just to be sure. If you were in NZ you would not be able to leave the country if you don't have plastic thru holes. Applies to nz boats. I know why because lighting love striking metal in plastic boats. congrats on your new boat, and good luck ;)
Thsts a nice boat . Good for you its going to be awesome when you get it done
Do everything that could leak before you hit the water. Only sensible thing to do.!! This one won't float if it fills with water!
Yes, replace ALL the thru holes now!!
Thru holes first!
@@chadmutchler5062 ruclips.net/video/aTvOFYYCJXo/видео.html
@@kevio6868 ruclips.net/video/aTvOFYYCJXo/видео.html
@@OneLife-hp6wc ruclips.net/video/aTvOFYYCJXo/видео.html
Nice boat I am sure when all is fixed you will be very happy with it, Triradial is not a material but the way the panels a cut, cross-cut are horizontal panela and in triradial are of a diamond shape when attached together
This new series is awesome, James is out there getting it done. Really inspirational. Time to just get going, no more stalling.
Yes, I would defiantly replace the 2" seacock. You can't go wrong fixing stuff below the waterline when you are on the hard.
Campbell soup oh yea looking good you got it going
Try putting a propane torch on that large valve. Tap and spray with penetrating oil. You will have to do this multiple times but eventually, it will free.
Computer crashing: it's possibly the heat, but you can help it by just unscrewing the case and carefully cleaning out any dust and crud from inside, especially around any cooling vanes, the fan, and heat-sink around the CPU. If the computer's own cooling is clean it should be OK to work. Get further support for cooling by having an external fan to sit underneath and help draw air through.
Change all the valves , and the hoses below the water line and all the gear clamps too . Cheap insurance.
Fun fact, the Kiwi was called the Chinese Gooseberry and in China it was called "macaque fruit":
Now, it's New Zealand’s defining agricultural product, generating $1.05 billion in exports for the country in 2015
time.com/4662293/kiwifruit-chinese-gooseberry-new-zealand-history-fruit/
PS love the project you're showing us!
Given the age of the boat its best to change out every throughull and ball valve, if the old valves were to fail could be a lot more expensive and more haul out costs
Love the v-log style!
Grease fitting. That pressure can thingy holds most of a tube of grease. The line to the packing holds most of a tube, the packing I don't know. Disconnect the line at the packing and pump grease through the system until air free clean new grease comes out of the tube then reconnect and try to grease the packing. If you are lucky, that might free it up. Worked on pump packings for me.
Replace the cooling paste between the cpu's and fans and clean all dust from the fans. This will most likely fix the laptop/computer overheating problems. The cooling paste dries out, hardens and does not work as good anymore as when it was new. It is a fairly simple fix. And will only cost a couple of dollars.
I understand, I think, that you and Kim went your separate ways, BUT I sure miss her. Loved her accent and that body :)
Love the new intro
Thanks , Just ordered a premium T-Shirt from you . Thanks!
Good Luck can't wait for the next video.
When in doubt swap it out. That strainer for example. Courage!
HI James An old miner's trick for your crescent wrench. Take the wrench apart and cut one more slot in the moveable jaw. This will increase how far the wrench opens. Bill
Love the boat be nice on the water
I would remove the grease fitting from the rudder post, to make sure the grease is coming out there. just to make sure the tube isn't broken somewhere in the boat.
I would think the tube is clogged with hard grease.
From all the sailing channels you have the best intro. Good job.
Do everything that needs done on the bottom now while it’s already out. Makes the most sense. That way down the road you can fix the rest while being in the water.
Looking good.
You're doing a great job! Keep your dream alive you are the master of your own destiny!
Loving the new format!!! I'd suggest replacing any possible below the waterline failure potential now! Peace of mind!!! Hey maybe I missed it but what happened to that new dinghy? Wishing you the best!
Hi James it’s probably too late now but if not see if you can find Hansen reinforced nylon valves and thru hulls. They are cheaper than bronze and stainless fittings and last forever, don’t corrode and don’t jam up.
A Kiwi is a native New Zealand flightless bird or what people from New Zealand are often called as a term of endearment. What you're eating s a kiwifruit or Chinese gooseberry and also very tasty!
The whole grease thing should be sorted on rudder put a grease fitting right where the tube is and load it up while you sort the grease deal out.
On replacing any fittings or anything old under the water line that if you are having a thought if water tight integrity can be a issue then it's better to be safe than sorry. Replace everything under the water line
Buy a bulk load of hose clamps re do all of the hose clamps. Double clamp everything below the water line. Epirb is toast. Just keep cleaning learn your bilges. Next set up a racor and a 2 filter micrcon pump it in to the barrels though the racor and you will have clean fuel. Use 10 micrcon filters when u start up. Change the engine fuel filters. Yard bills are a bitch but if you rush you will miss something and it's going to cost more.
Getting there James, getting there! Beautiful boat!
You certainly keep my attention until the very end. I'm feeling your concerns, so much to do, so many expenses...Hang in there James. The boat will be great once your fixed up everything.
Great stuff! Thanks for recording what you have going on.
If the through hull is not leaking take the ball valve from the through hull fitting, get it in a vice fill it with penetrating fluid leave it for a couple of hours then see if its free or crank it ,get some heat on it, any way you can free it . don't forget to plug the holding tank first. couple hours work will save 300 bucks, you got the tools get it serviceable swap it out later.
James NPT and BSP threads have the same TPI and diameter, they can screw together, use good sealant though.
pipe wrenches work wonders especially if a wrench rounds off the hex corners
You can use motorcycle tire tubes as a cheep batch material..lol its the same as the stuff on the roll
James have you considered Tru Design (NZL) seacocks and through hulls? hey are composite, do not require electrical bonding and are much less expensive than Bronze. You epoxy them in place, and forget about it I have done that to mine. In the US Gemlux is the distributor. Contact me if you need help.
👍
Lot of work, man... you look a bit overwhelmed. One thing at a time... prioritize to get into the water, and then things will get easier..
Keep the head as pump overboard, pull the holding tank and put in another diesel tank. Seal up the old through hull hole.
What a project! I hate the feeling of total overwhelm when there is just so much to do it feels like you will never get through. But, with your energy, you'll put this behind you in now time.
Changes all the bushings in the boat repair the rudder and keel and one
tmore thing, if you have the opportunity, put in a bautrustet
Do the valve. You can't exactly beach a mono hull like you can a cat. Change your thought process. Do all your underwater work while you're in the yard. It does pay of in the long run... you can replace the stainless holding tank with a roto moulded plastic one when you're at anchor...
Love your videos and the new boat! If our vote counts, $350 and sleeping soundly at night is cheaper than a sinking boat. Change that thru-hull!
Awesome intro !
James, I'm afraid you're gonna find that a lot if not all your hoses are going to need to be changed in addition to those thru hulls.
Check out Odd Life Crafting videos- they bought a really cool monohull in Brazil where they're from and they had to completely redo their plumbing- however their boat was a complete basket case unlike yours which is in pretty good shape except for the teak deck!
Please be careful of the mold James, it’s a killer. You said the former owner got sick, left the boat and then died. Hope not of black mold poisoning. Seriously, be careful, I had it and you don’t want it. Mask up when cleaning mold off stuff and even when close to it and ventilate the boat as much as you can.
I would do the tank valve there. I would try to unstick it by "boiling it in oil first" before I bought a new one. There are lots of clever ways to unstick stuff. Your rudder well/have to disassembled the top to get it "lubed try" Transmission oil mixed with acetone 50/50 mix it makes it thin enough to penetrate deep might have to let soak over night see if that works. Just one step at a time and before you know it you will be in the water.
This tranny oil acetone trick works well with dissimilar metals corrosion too. Great suggestion.
James, I don't have to tell you what happens to inferior equipment. DON'T skimp on anything...That doesn't mean go crazy spending money because money can run out as can luck. Work hard now, reap the benefits later. Fix what you can, buy what you must. Cheers and stay safe. ⛵
Enjoy each job and make them sweet,
glad you’ll be when ocean is beneath feet.
We love your video’s James! Greetz from Holland!
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Super yacht. Definitely would change and upgrade those through valves. It's going to be a a great boat once you have sorted out it out. Much respect James!
Stay positive James. You’re going to do big things
Have you gone below the boat to the thru hull and scraped the bronze to see if any of the metal is pink? If it is then change the fitting because the pink color tells you that you have an electrolisys problem. If they are not pink clean them up with a solution of muriatic acid, usually available at hardware or grocery stores. On that big valve take the hose off the top put some acid solution in there, go below get a spray bottle spray some up the fitting. Spray the pipes inside same way brush the acid about the green will disappear in a few minutes. Pour some water into the pipe to rinse it out while doing all this try moving the valve. Once the valve frees up and you have rinsed it all grease it. You be done and still have money in your pocket.